2011 Jeep Grande Cherokee Blend door gear -rubber melted
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- By cutting into the side of the heater housing I was able to free up the melted rubber on the blend door and save a $3500 repair bill from the dealership.
I just taped the holes over with foil tape.
We continued to have the door stick over and over, so I finally removed entire dash and installed a new heater box($500). The entire job took me around 16 hours and only 6 beers. Biggest hassle was the heater core. Works fine now a year later.
This is such a bad design from Jeep. I have the same problem. The Mechanic tells me they have to remove the whole dash and some to get this replaced. Not sure why put meltable next to a heater.
Got the same problem, was quoted about the same for R & R of dash and replacement of part. I found a very simple fix, all you have to do is got down to your local hardware store, buy any good hardened steel axe, and chop the living shit out of that piece of crapola Chrysler four wheeled turd dash assembly. No dash, no problem
I would tackle taking the dash out myself and replacing heater, but why has the rubber melted and is it going to happen again? That is my issue. I tried to unhook the actuator to keep the door from turning back to heat, but then the rest of the actuators are shutting on and off to reset and balance the system. So I may just get a new heater and attempt the swap and hopefully find the real issue.
@@summitSask Hey Corey: Possible light at the end of the ducks butt, so to speak: my problem was the passenger side had no AC. I had replaced the blend door motor, didn't fix it. I was told that the dash was going to have to come out, expect around 1500 in labor costs. I found local mechanic who fixed all my troubles for about 200. Turns out you have to pull and either replace or reset both blend door motors (driver and passenger) and then re calibrate them. That's it, no drama, no breaking the bank. Good luck dude. go ahead and contact me if there is anything I can help you with...Sam
sam Beeman Yes every time I am removing the blend motor I reset and re-calibrate. In my case there’s no question the rubber is melting and continues to stick every once in a while. But yes the recalibration is definitely overlooked by most
Corey Simpso hello, I am also having an issue on my passenger side. Only hot air comes out but I can freely move the valve. So my plan is to replace the actuator. My question is what steps are involved in recalibrating the actuator?
BTW, I have the same anniversary edition.
combatcomm1 it is supposed to recalibrate when you turn the key on each time but best to completely reset system by unhooking battery cables and even connect both negative and positive cables together( not connected to battery) so it drains completely for a few hours. When all connected back up turn key to recalibrate.
Guys if you want to know if that flap is melted just slide your camera in through that upper vent opening with the video running (lighted) and you’ll know right away
Take the time to take it'll all out and apart, get a rubber inner tube for any tire. Cut it to length then trim to fit the over the leading edges of the door itself and glue it to it with high temp glue and reinstall. Not easy but cheaper then dealership or replacing the whole HVAC air control box.
How did you remove the air duct?
Did you try and use a tool to try and move the flapper cylinder?
Do you have a favorite Jeep Owner's forum for troubleshooting advice? I own a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 Limited with 5.7L and I'm not sure the electric Rad Fan is behaving correctly. Can you do a check of operation on your Jeep and let me know? The question is: Does the electric Rad Fan come on as soon as the A/C compressor is engaged? On my car it doesn't. The Rad Fan will come on when the water temp gauge gets halfway up the scale, and cycles to maintain proper radiator temperature. Even with A/C and compressor running, the Rad Fan is not normally on. This seems wrong to me, based on previous vehicles I've owned. Without the radiator fan running, the liquid line under the hood gets FIRE hot when car is not moving. Just recently, I began hearing a hissing sound from under the dash when A/C is on. Believe this to be the sound of refrigerant flow, and wonder if system is low. My compressor runs continuously, and there is cooling, but not sure if it is normal, or under capacity. (Living in Atlanta, GA, and temps are still moderate.) Can you point me to a resource where I can learn theory and normal operation of modern A/C operation? I am familiar with "cycling clutch and fixed orifice" design from 1997 Mercury Grand Marquis, but Jeep is much newer and has TXV (thermal expansion valve) located under the dash, just before the evaporator. Thanks for any ideas or suggestions. Chet
Sounds correct, but I don’t know for sure.
I learned the system is definitly low on freon. After adding more R134A, the clutch and Rad Fan are cycling.
@@chetmyers7041what issue were you having?
My issue currently, I do not have front vents blowing air. I watched the actuator turn all the way both ways, so it can't be that. Must be a stuck flapper. I have heard you can manually, but I have seen some have issue with it being completely stuck. I'm not sure if they had or used a pair of pliers to try and wiggle it loose or not.
Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks
Any luck? I think I’m having the same problem.
No luck, i have cleaned melted rubber off a couple times and its stuck again now. Dealer seems to know nothing. But installing a whole new heater for 3G isn’t the answer for me.
I got mine to move a little so it’s not on full heat anymore. I’m gonna keep messing with it to see if I can get full motion. Thanks for the video I had no idea what exactly was going on until I watched it.
And you spent 3,500 only to have same issue just after warranty expires ….. HOW CONVENIENT