2011 Jeep no AC or heat on one side blend door actuator and calibration / activation dodge chrysler
Вставка
- Опубліковано 14 вер 2016
- I did not have full heat or AC on the driver side of my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee so here is how I fixed it. May help on other chrysler dodge HVAC issues too. Common issue. Helpful for passengers side too. Same ol Jeep HVAC issues. Dealer charges 1000 -1300 to fix it did it for under 80 but will admit that was a pain. Try at your own risk.
Thank you Pat !! The calibration method worked perfect !! Passenger side broken gear. No more giving a mechanic 125 bucks. This is the 3rd time. Decided to give it a go myself. A whole 8 dollars. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Thanks again bro !
Watching this saved my husband and I over $2000, which was what we were quoted for parts and labor at our local Dodge Dealer to change an entire assembly, when all we needed was a $3 gear. Thanks for this!
Thanks so much for sharing!! You just saved me $2000. I am replacing this on my silver 2011 Grand Cherokee Jeep Laredo. Following you step by step. 😊Wish me luck!
Mine has the same problem but also when I turn the heat smell like antifreeze
Just wanted to say thank u. I have the same jeep and had the actuator replaced by a shop cause im no mechanic. They then proceeded to tell me that wasent the problem and wanted $950.00 to fix the second issue and would have to order a part. It took me 10 minutes to disconnect the battery with 5 minutes of letting it sit and BOOM heat and my ac worked. And the shop wanted almost 1000 canadian dollars. Thank you so much. I called the shop back and the owner was pissed at his workers for quoting me this and not being able to do it themselves.
Wow! That's is crazy to hear and glad you fixed it yourself eventhough we aren't "mechanics" I'm sure you had the same feeling I did when it was complete. Gave me confidence to take on other things I may not have. Thanks for sharing.
performed this repair this weekend. thanks so much, this video was spot on
Did this a couple months ago and couldn’t have without your video. You saved me a ton of money. Thanks so much man.
Great happy to help. Thanks for letting me know it's still helping folks out..
Thanks a lot ,i just bought a used 2011 with both side broken. Your video save a lot of money at lot of people.
Thanks Pat, best how to video I have seen in a while.
Video and battery reset advice was spot on! Only cost me $20 total for the gear and that nifty little tool you recommended. Very helpful video!!!! Could not have done it without your help!
Ryan Hay great to hear, thanks.
I REALLY appreciate this video. First of all it helped me find which part was the issue. I went ahead and ordered both the blend door actuator assembly and also the gear. Our problem this time was the gear. I think I'll go ahead and buy a couple of extras for when we have the next break. After seeing the part and reading how common this issue is on the Grand Cherokee, it's almost sure to happen again. This info. you have shared saved us a bunch of $. We have about $65 in parts and the ratchet tool I bought. It was a pain to install - in fact my wife had to actually do the swap. I couldn't even get my hands in there close enough to do it. But we are cooling again ❄️😎👍🏻.
Thank you for the video post! You may add me to the list of successful repairs! Everything worked out just as explained and took me about one hour to complete. The disassembly took longer due to the learning curve, but reassembling everything took about fifteen minutes! The most useful tool is the ratchet and torx bit combo. I have a 1/4 ratcheting combination wrench that made the screw removal/replacement super fast and easy! I now have COLD ac for less than $60! Too bad you can't get a percentage or a fee for all the $$$ you've saved Jeep owners with this video! I want to say, "Thanks a million!", but will say, "Thanks $60.00!" instead! :-)
Just wanted to add my thanks as well. The whole thing took me an hour thanks to this video!
Great to hear. Thanks for letting me know.
Very helpful!!! I've been trying to troubleshoot what was causing it to work on one side and not the other like in your situation and this was my answer!! Now I just need to find a place to work on it when it's not 100 degrees outside.
Thank you!
Thanks Pat, the video saved me time and frustration. Grateful for your video.
Thanks for the step by step! From part # to what to expect. Great video!
After going to dealership and a mechanic shop and getting ridiculous quotes, I decided to do it myself. Took me 3 hours at an IKEA parking lot and saved a good chunk of money and time. All thanks to you for uploading this golden video.
Cheers
Great video Pat. I checked out the prices at my Chrysler dealership and the $1000-$1300 is to replace the blend doors as they have to take apart the entire dash. To change the blend door actuator as you have done without any diagnostics is only .9 hours according to their shop repair guide so it works out to just under $200 with the parts and taxes included. (Shop rates were $140/hr at my dealership). As much as I wanted to do this myself, at this time of the year in Canada, it's pretty cold. Your video helped me diagnose the problem and so I just told the garage to replace and calibrate and not spend any extra time trouble shooting. So I still saved $$$.
I hope I can get my dealer in North Dakota to do the same! It is already way to cold to tackle this replacement myself.
About to attempt this today, thanks wholeheartedly to this video! I too was quoted in the 1300 range for this repair. Thank you all for the video and comments!
SPECTACULAR!!!!! thank you !!!!! We were able to do this in about an hour and a half!!! Parts were less than $40! Battery reset worked awesome!
Pat Medina Welp. my account is hacked. i didnt post that.
Solid video and awesome help with the tools. Did job in 1.5 hours
Fixed mine for the most part last night. I was never able to get the top screw all the way back in. Not enough space even after shortening the bit. Everything works again though. Thanks for the vid.
I know this video is old but thank you for this. I love my 2011 GC Laredo! 200k miles and she is finally starting to fall apart a bit. Maintenance is key!
Great advice and instruction. Thank you. Please continue to make more videos.
Thank you for uploading this video, i save a lot of money.
As you said, the hardest part was removing that top torx screw. For the "special tool, I used a 1/4 ratchet wrench with a shortened torx bit. I put duct taped over the back of the wrench to hold the torx bit in place. I then duct taped the wrench to a long, narrow flat-head screw driver to give me more reach. I positioned the flat-head of the screwdriver behind the torx bit for support.I ground the back of the torx bit off with a bench grinder, after unsuccessfully trying a hacksaw.I read a good suggestion on a Jeep forum to replace the torx screws with hex head screws, so you can use a simple wrench or ratchet wrench to attack from the side, requiring much less space needed.
Part was about $47, took about 30 minutes off and 30 minutes on, after watching this video and one other, works again!!! The Jeep parts department guy looked kinda pissed that I knew what part was not working. I bought a thumb ratchet from Sears for 9 bucks that saved a little time. Thanks Pat!
I cant get the side panel off. Any advice?
Really great video...with no vacuums on the 2012 Jeep Liberty, I thought maybe my problem was the mode door actuator or the blend door actuator. The dealer checked both of these, took them out, and said both parts are fine. They are saying that the actual plastic door in the air distribution box is broken, and the part cannot be bought separately. So the whole air distribution box needs to be replaced with 7 hours of labor for pulling the dash apart. $1000-1200. Ugh!!!! Thanks for giving me hope for a moment though haha - nice work in this video.
Great video, really helpful. As he suggests, passenger side is really easy once you pull out the glove box. You can see everything and access the screws and connections easily. Disconnecting the battery worked to re-calibrate.
Contrary to what has been written here, my Jeep dealer did the driver side repair (broken gear) at a reasonable price. It shows up as a 1 hour labor, so it was about $130 with tax and the gear part. I was away from home on vacation at the time (no garage or tools), so was worth it to me to have the dealer do it and make the 8 hour drive home in comfort. Unfortunately, that repair only lasted 18 months, so now I am going to attempt the driver side myself.
Yeah, this video is getting older now and sounds like most the jeep dealers figured it out (perhaps influenced by videos like this one) but back then a lot of folks including myself were getting these super high quotes because they were saying the whole dash needed pulled.
Thanks brother I have been with no AC on driver side for 2 months now I will be buying these parts tomorrow
Oh good. You can do it. Take your time.
Thank you for posting this video. Just completed this repair without any problems. Very helpful. Saved my family a lot of money
Happy to hear it.
did you have to remove the upper and lower duct?
@@tee3638 yes I removed both
@@jay12035 are there clips to remove the upper ducts
@@tee3638 No I don't believe so. You just have to pull apart the clamshell duct and pull each piece out one at a time. I used a small flathead screwdriver to help separate the ducts
Great job. I like what you did
Just fixed my 2011 both sides in a couple of hours Gears ok but changed with original Mopar with orientation tooth ,Gears inside motor broken ,changed with Rockauto (Dorman 19$) new model .Made a small circuit to reduce at 10V current at motor less energy =less force to broken gear ,im trying the solution if work properly.Thanks again Pat.
Dude I think this is exactly what just happened to my jeep! I also live in Denver, so thanks for posting receipt! I am going to 104th parts department today!
Luckily my hands are just right and slip three the small opening. I got everything done like the video. I was in a rush and got the gear at dealer which they rape me about 16 bucks for it. Installed it and powered the ac up. I wasnt sure how to align the gear up with the one on the top which drive the blender doors. So I went ahead and put actuator back on and it worked. Now the wifey is happy she have her ac back. Thanks for the video it was helpful and saved me ton of money.
Rydrdg happy to hear it sir.
I just replaced the recirculation actuator on my 2012 300c as it was clicking. However, didn't know about recalibrating... so I guess I'll try taking the battery off as it seems to constantly hunt for home now when I shut off recirculate. Listening to the loud clicking for my 1 hour commute home made me want to drive into a bridge abutment. Standing on my head for 1.5 hours taking the top screw out and putting it in was also challenging. So many hand cramps!
Thank for the video It helped me out. And all I had to do to Calibrate it was to turn the AC on turn the heat all the way up and then turn it all the way down and I did it by itself.
Great to hear. Thanks.
I like how you casually play with the eyelash curling tool, lol thanks for the info. Your vehicle is identical to my wife's 2011 Dodge Durango Crew fyi, I did the passenger side and now doing driver's side. Wish me luck.
Haha, I had to find that in the video. Guess I was considering using that bad boy to get prettier for my next video. Haha.
Great tips !! Saved me so much stress knowing some of these details. I made a stubby torx bit by welding a torx tip in a 1/4 wrench, then grinding it down to about 1/2 inch wide. A ratchet stubby is definitely the way to go though !!! Now once you get that screw out, walk it to the bench grinder and take 1/4 inch off its length otherwise it will never go back in. My gears were good, had bad actuators.
Thanks so much for your video, I’ll try to fix it right now as it is -25 in Calgary right now. Chrysler doesn’t fix this recurrent problem as they are making millions fixing it. There’s a guy full time fixing that issue at my dealership. I also heard that it was an issue that dates back to 1990’s
Thank you very much for this video! Although it was a total pain in the ass, I was able to replace the gear on the driver side with your instructions. The actuator was just fine but I could tell that the gear was broken before I actually started digging into the job. I hope I never have to do it again....
Great to hear. I just had my passenger side go out so you might want to look for another video on that side coming soon. It's way easier.
Thanks for the details man. Trying this tomorrow and I 've been dreading it. Passenger side was easy but I fear this one lol
Thanks to you I saved $700. The only difference is that I took the heat Shield right side bracket off. Hardest job I’ve ever done with less than an inch of space... that’s what she said.
Hay that's great to hear. Thanks for sharing.
The dealership was about to charge me 3.2k to fix this issue.... but my passenger side is what is broken. I'm about to go and get it from them and look to see if I need to order the $3 or $30 part! Thank you so much.
Thank you!! Lifesaver ❤️ my passenger side is out and it’s hot AF in Florida 😆
Great to hear hope this helps but I made another video on how to do the passenger side specifically afyer folks requested. That side is easier :).
Thanks for the video. I am in the middle of nowhere, and have about 30 hour's drive to the dealer that might or might not have the part, so I performed this, and rebuilt the gear with super glue and epoxy. Hopefully it will work for a while til I can get a new part.
No way, let us know of that works.
Great video helped me getting mine done but did my own analysis and it is actually easier. The duct that goes to the feet actually splits in half so you can actually take it out and have way more room to remove the actuator. Actuator will spin like crazy until it stops on the right spot so u can slide it in then it will self calibrate. Again great video and if anyone has a question on either side lmk I did the passenger side a while ago.
Yep, i pulled that little duct out too. My passenger side just went too.
Thank you . You saved me 1200 Bucks.
Great to hear it.
Best how do video ever
Thanks! Having the same issue. I’ll follow your directions 👍🏽
Good to hear. Hope goes well.
you are a life saver man. thank you.
Happy to hear this helped you out.
Thanks. Just done the job. Works now.
Spent 40 bucks..
Happy to hear that this video keeps on giving. Haha.
Thanks for the info and the look see.
Dude thank you the shop said they were gonna charge me 225 to do this just bought the part on like and saved my heat
Yeah, I think more and more are catching on that you don't need to pull the whole dash like they used to when they quoted me and others over 1300 bucks.
Great video but much easier in my opinion if you take the panel off under steering wheel, remove plate (4 Screws) then a another bracket (2 screws) which gives u access to actuator from the connector side. This way u don’t have to lay on your back to do this. I tried the video way laying on my back and wasted an hour trying to get the nylon threaded screw out of the heating duct.
The little wrench is a must. With this video and check out Jeeper Gear on this topic his video is spot on and you’ll do this in 2.5 hrs.
do you have the part # for the little black plastic gear? (that is all I need to replace)
Great video! Thank you for taking the time to make it! I'm currently replacing the actuator on my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I noticed on the actuator itself, there is an arrow pointing in the direction of the gear shaft, is this significant with respect to alignment? Thanks!
Hi Pat great video. Reading about other fixes online as well - I see you removed the lower air duct and in other forums it is mentioned to remove the upper duct which is a clamshell, but I cannot figure out how to get it out. Did you remove that part or anything else (metal brackets for dash, etc.)? If so, how? Thanks again, this is a big help!
Thanks for this going to try this on my sister's Jeep
Sweet good luck. Way to be a great sibling. 👍
Does the upper and lower duct have to be remove. I removed the lower part of the duct however I could not get to upper duct out. Does this need to be removed to get the to screw out of the actuator?
1. Must have tool: Harbor Freight, PITTSBURGH Ratcheting Right Angle Multi-Bit Screwdriver Set, 8 Piece $2.99
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable (under passenger seat for 20 mins.) to recalibrate the blend door actuator system.
Very helpful because mine just broke today. And yes you guessed it the damn driver side 🤬🤬🤬🤬🤬
That's sucks man. Have fun, and take your time it isn't too bad.
I have 2011 Overland Edition and and I'm having a hard time removing the driver side panels underneath. I also see a mental plate blocking where I would have to go up replace the part
Your great at explaining...you should do more how to videos!
Thank you. I have made quite a few others but only end up posting if there isn't already a decent video on the subject.
Tried just replacing the gear. No difference. Then I went to the auto parts store and bought a replacement actuator. Boom! I now have cool and hot as desired on passenger side. Had I not had to make the run to the store, it would have been a less than 2-hour project and I am pretty much a novice. Thanks for the help!
Do you have the part number for the Blend Door actuator? The part number in the video is only the gear... Thanks!
So I have repleaced my driver side actuator gear before and it was very hard to get too. Now I am having to replace the passenger side which is much easier but for some reason it just keeps turning and getting itself stuck and I have no clue but to do to "recalibrate it" or if that's what is needed or maybe the actuator is just mess up too? Any suggestions?
What is the name of the part that the actuator gear (female) slides on to(male)? This is broken on my passenger side.
Just want to add something important. Always try to move gears by your hand before you put new gear or new actuator. Like in my case the door was jammed and it was hell of a work to make it move. More things needs to be taken appart so you can stick your hand and push from inside. Still very tight but possible. Rubber get melted on this things
Thank you Pat for this video, it gave me the courage as a woman to try and fix the problem myself. I ended up changing the broken gear and actuator and really struggled with that top screw, my scratched up hands are proof of that. With my shortened bit, I then shortened the screw as others recommended and I finally got that screw to screw in!!!! I did the reset as you suggested and then started the jeep, after all that, I don't think I fixed the problem, I still hear a hissing sound and the heat isn't as hot on the driver side as the passenger side. Any thoughts?
Great video, man! Curious, were you getting any sort of hissing sound when your AC was broken? Mine blows (more or less) but makes a hissing sound and very little cold air.
Jesse Walter, did you end up fixing the gear and/or actuator and if you did, was there still the hissing sound or did it go away?
Excellent job brother.
Very well done and thought out.
Thank you for posting.
Should be same for 2010 right?!
Thank you very much !!!!
Thank you...!!! 🙏🙏
Exactly my issue and same Jeep
Thanks i found my answer
Thank you
awesome info ty:)!!!!!!!
Happy to hear it and hope this helps you.
Thanks ill be doing that tomorrow
Pat Medina got done just now and let me tell you that i wanted to burn my jeep
I've done this three times now and still have issues.
I have pulled the a/c control fuse but never took the whole system down.
Since it's now broken again, I will try disconnecting the battery next time.
Thank you for sharing! You have been a life saver! My Jeep is a 2007 so it wasn't exactly like yours but I managed to replace my actuator after watching your video. Only difference is I don't have a battery under my passenger seat. Now just to find out how calibrate mine.
Anyone know how to calibrate one on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee??
The disconnecting the battery didn't work?
@@Quincy8Boy No it didnt work. But the actuator is working. Now my problem is the blend doors unfortunately
I was able to calibrate mine by turning the temp. controller on AUTO for a few minutes while running. Saw it in another video for older models. Worked for me!
Did you set your temp to any set temp before you uninstalled
How did you calibrate the blend door
People can afford, Jeep should recall this. I'm pissed, got the part out but can't get it aligned right to mount, Pain in the ass!
I have the durango and the actuator works good but it keep breaking the gear any idea why? I change it already twice and is so hard to do it because it rrally tide in there and I dont want to do it again. (Driver side)
Oh no, that has to be driving you crazy. After you made the change did you calibrate the gear via the battery ground disconnect as explained in the video? That is supposed to keep that from happening. If so, I would also check what volts your actuator is getting, it might say on the part how much it is supposed to get but most cars are between 1 and 5 volts can be tested with multimeter against the connector going to the actuator part. The dealership is supposed to have some tool that can calibrate it too but most people here sat the battery trick I showed works. Might even want to check that there isn't a fuse too big something on anything that has to do with HVAC in your fuse panel. That's all I got for now but good luck and let us know what you find.
same part number for both sides?
Omg!! I love you! Do you live in florida? I will pay you to fix mine!
How do you calibrate the actuator???
Tried it, passenger side, no go, can't quite figure it out, new actuator, new gear, door not moving, broke 2 gears, can't figure it out. Door must be stuck?? Not sure, been struggling. We'll see. Figures it's the hottest it's been here in years. Oh well, just get back at it and try again, great video, great walk through, I must have other issues.
Some UA-cam video show that the actual door inside the box gets so hot that the glue that was used around the edge which holds on some kind of a gasket or seal will make it stick in the hot position. Sometimes when it is unstuck, it may not fully open or close. Did you fix yours or try something different.
@@yeehaw398 I had a bit more room seeing it was an older grand cherokee. So the carpet was in a position where we could go to the plastic and cut a small notch in that plastic, reach in, change the entire unit out and cover it back up with the carpet. I don't have the vehicle anymore. But it worked. Very easy.
The dealer quoted 1.5 hours for the drivers side. I think it is well worth it after spending the morning getting this job done. Yes remove the upper split duct to get at the screws. There is no need to remove any dash components. I did remove the driver's seat but that is optional.
No way, that's it. I bet they finally caught on that you don't need to remove the whole dang dash and a ton of us are doing for cheap at home. Most people get a much higher quote to rip out the whole dash from the dealer. I'd like to think they have included my video in some training, haha.
Pat thanks for posting this, I tried to do your battery trick after I replaced both the actuator and the gear but still no driver side heat in my 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee,
Any other thoughts on how to calibrate it?
Same happened to me change the gear did the battery thing and still didn't work the way it supposed to.
@@franciscozamarripa3099 haha I'm in the same boat. did you guys figure it out?
my drivers lower dash folds down out of the way with removing two screws and giving a slight tug, took out the actuator in ten minutes.
Gives me hope 🤞🏻 mine is a 2011 wish me luck
Is there an official name for the little gear that goes on the actuator? I purchased an actuator at autozone but cannot find the gear on several sites. Is there another name that the gear could be listed under?
Brian Hilton
Part number for the gear is:
6821 4880AA
So im having the same calibration issue after just recently disconnecting the battery to install a new starter motor. Do you think turning the heat all the way up, then d/cing the battery and reconnecting will put it back in proper calibration?
No sire because I think it calibrates it by rotating both ways when battery is re- connected.
Gonna try this next week, got cold air blowing on passenger side and hot air on driver side. Going to order the parts this weekend hopefully it fixes the issue. Do Have another issue not sure if you can help but my ac/heat blow for roughly a minute then shuts of for roughly a minute and just keeps that same cycle going for every trip. Any idea what that could be?
So that second issue seems weird, there is a like heater blower that I'm pretty sure you can see while working that passenger side (that side is easier so go watch the other video I made for the passenger (right) side you should watch and see if that blower (its behind the glove box area) and confirm if working all the time before putting it all back together.
But yeah, look at both issues. I've never changed out the blower motor fan as that has always been solid for me but perhaps related. I would look closely at the electrical connects if possible to the fan, then maybe see if you there are relays possibly fuses involved too.
Thank you so much for the video.
My air con is blowing Heat only with no cold blowing it seems that I need to change the actuator but I am not sure which one I should change the passenger side or the driver side is both of them are blowing heat and it wont blow cold air at all if you could help much appreciated it.
Might be something else. I would trouble shoot AC issues first. Maybe freon leak or something similar like that (is ac compressor turning over)..
@@patmedina1960
Thanks for you reply.
Yes, the A/C is working normal, now what make me think that could be the actuator is every time the car go over hump or turning sharp left or sharp right I can feel a cold blow for a few seconds then it goes away and the heat blow back.
@@rabzn5378 I would also make sure you have enough coolant. Long shot but I've seen that cause similar issues on my older jeep.
Which actuator did you buy? (68224197, 68224192, or 68224186)You posted the gear for the actuator model number.
Fixed it today. It’s a Distribution actuator stock# 68224186AA
💪🏽👍👍 thank u
I have the same jeep the driver side ac is fine but the passenger side blow warm air. I think I might have the same problem
I need help! , so I finally got to the actuator and replaced the gear put it back in and as soon as I turn my Jeep on I heard a loud clicking noise looked down and the new gear broke , I’m stuck and confused . The actuator is spinning and it looks like it works properly . I don’t know what’s happening HELP!!
Did u do the battery step?
I have this problem but it is intermittent. Heat and cool works perfect most of the time but then has periods (Maybe for a few days) where only passenger side is working properly. during these periods the fan occasionally turns off for 6 seconds and then recycles back on. Weird. I wonder if it is just the control head behind the face control panel? Any thoughts from the group? I have 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee Thanx!
I have the EXACT same problem!! Don't want to pay for a pricey fix from the dealer. Hope someone chimes in with thoughts for what this could be!
Im taking a chance on just replacing the control module. $290 on line and seems a simple fix. Dealer wanted $550. For me its worth a try.
I have the same problem. Did you get your issue resolved?