This guy. We ask in the comments of one video, and in the next one he delivers. And on such short notice. And over Christmas. I mean, a lot of youtube channels are close with their communities, but this is on another level
Thank you so much! I love hearing from everyone and it helps me figure out what to do next. I won't have any super exciting content for a week or so because I just went on vacation. But I have a few videos qued up to hold you all over!
It's quite impressive that lego is even manufactured consistently enough for this to work out with random pieces, or for it to be noticeable when a piece like the neck bracket goes from 3 to 4 LDU
Wow! When you think about it, it makes sense that since the fingernail ridges around the edges of plates to help lifting them are 1 LDU wide, they would intentionally design the goblets with a similar-sized gap between the goblet rim and the underside of a round 1x1 stud edge that is inserted into it, because otherwise the stud would be flush with the goblet and quite difficult to remove!
Another benefit of the goblets solution is that it lets you stack them easier than with the neckbrackets which prevent using the studs of their support.
A missed opportunity with the color coding is that you could have made the plates for all the 1 LDU increments be black, while even amounts are white. That way, you could have taken a side profile shot with the camera and show just how thin the different slivers are when seen from that side.
I am glad this video set exists because it shows neat ways to add just a mite of texture to a wall. You could just imagine the 2ldu indent for a dented piece of drywall
Oh heck yeah! My mind is sufficiently blown. I had my suspicions, and I was right. You are a genius. I am also correct about an LDU measuring 0.4mm. AKA 400 microns. AKA micrometers. 400 times one millionth of one meter. Some types of hair are that thick! For reference. All this helps me understand why certain part configurations haven't matched up correctly. I thought 'half plate thick thinking' should be working, but I have an LDU anomaly interfering with perfect fit. I didn't have that problem with the cube kaleidoscope. I was thinking about the half plate stuff from the beginning and that's why I did it in one day. The fact that i only made two types of constructions (four sided and two for top and bottom) also made it quick. But issues with another build are something I can understand now. I probably won't wrack my brain for days now. Understanding this might help me make tighter mirror tubes for kaleidoscopes too. They'll be better with less gap between the sides if I think in LDU. I hope you are also right about there being other ways of achieving the different thicknesses. That's like the Holy Grail now.
Would be interesting to see increments of 1-2 LDUs in vertical, you know I'm obsessed with variable terrain height it gives a lot of depth on an axis that tend to be too flattened, I guess also because the minifigures are 1,6 meters fatties :D PS: Happy holidays!!
Same concept would apply but I believe it would need to work off snot and then just rotate them to unSNOT them (if that makes sense lol) in order to utilize the jumper plate correctly.
I like the goblet solution because I figure you can use only 1 wide, but also 2x2. The interesting investigation is if you could achieve these LDU surface offsets on a surface that is a partial stud wide. What I mean is that your ramp is 40 studs long (800 LDU long) and 40 LDU tall. Can you achieve these increments on a shorter ramp? Or even just different areas
Alright, quarter LDU video when? Because it is possible, in 2 ways, to work with quarter LDUs. The first is the easier but less satisfying solution, which is understanding that each wall of a brick or plate is actually 0.1mm, ot 1/4 LDU off from the 2.5 plate tall measurement of 1 stud. The more satisfying way is using the difference in the hole heights of technic bricks vs. SNOT bricks, which again, is 0.1mm, or 1/4 LDU. To get each between 0/4 and 4/4 of an LDU, you can stack them on top of each other.
So when you refer to technic bricks are you talking about a brick with holes and technic pins in it or something else? please give me a part number to refer to on this one I am very curious.
@bricksculpt yes, things like piece 6541, Technic, Brick 1 x 1 with hole. Now the exact height difference is something I'm just taking someone else's word for, but we do know they are different heights, hence why it is illegal to put a snot brick into one and sandwich it with plates. It does seem to be about 0.1 mm, and the figure does come from measurements, though I would have to look again to find the source(s) that I got that measurement from.
You could also achieve 1/4 LDU's by inserting small paper slips or gaskets in between stud connections like you do with the minifig brackets; 20lb copy paper is right about 0.1mm in thickness which would be perfect for this.
Ona type of piece which (I think?) is 1 LDU thick is the ridge on a half-pin, as it is half the thickness of a newer neck-bracket, thus making it 1 LDU thick. It has previously annoyed me that technic holes which do not have a recess prevent me from making continuous and in system builds.
Clever stuff. Just wondering, when looking at 13:52, some steps seem smaller than others. Like between 5 and 6 LDU the increase is almost nothing but between 6 and 7 seems bigger. Or were some pieces not fully pressed home?
I got LDUs on the brain. (but that's a good thing) - Excellent video! Also - and I'm sure you commented on it or showed it maybe - you could save on goblets by using 2x2 jumpers and centering a single goblet - where applicable. ... or not
I wouldn't be surprised if you could go even lower. It seems kind of random that putting a stud inside a goblet leaves a gap that is just the right size. There are probably other peices you can connect that will leave other sized gaps, like 1.5 LDUs for instance.
The first obelisk I made has 4 LDU steps. I could update that to 2 LDU steps pretty easily. 1 LDU steps are achievable but very challenging. I don't want to try that lol
@@bricksculptha totally valid. I remember you showed a brief glimpse of (maybe Luca?) a creation from the discord of tiny level increments, and it was insane.
Good question lol it this is definitely not my original idea so I cant take credit for cracking any code but I am trying to make it more commonly known.
I wonder what the smallest 1LDU sphere is you can make. I can see it being pretty small when creating a circle with plates (so on a 1x4LDU grid), but to do a complete sphere is beyond me.
using a similar method to your 45 degree rotation using transparent 2x1 bricks, couldn't you achieve even lower numbers than 1 ldu via sliding the pieces since they have no middle stud?
Almost all the steps can be done in a multitude of ways, most of them more difficult than showcased here, with the exception of the middle step, which can be made simply by putting a 2x2 brick on jumpers, thus achieving 10 LDU.
I'm surprised you didn't mention the bar and clip connection. I feel that should theoretically give infinitely more options, since you can freely slide the clip along the bar, without any restrictions.
@@bricksculpt Your example uses two-peg steps, and I'm wondering if it's possible to do the same thing with one-peg steps without adding that tiny gap at the bottom.
@@NickCombs I would believe that it's got to be possible. The headlight brick aligns the snot plates/tiles to the top, but that's not actually a problem. If you put a headlight brick on top of 2 plates, and stick a 1x1 plate onto the SNOT side of the headlight, then you can build something that sticks out as much as a bracket and is 1 stud wide (but still 2 studs tall).
Not really related to the content of the video, but I'd like to point out that "LDU" stands for "LDraw Unit", NOT "LEGO Draw Unit". While the L in LDraw is presumed to stand for "LEGO", I don't think it is ever explicitly stated to be such (presumably for trademark reasons).
I think it might be just a piece per piece difference due to production. So maybe the 1x1 round stud sometimes goes in a bit lower or higher than supposed.
I don't think so. This also has some room for error because it has a flexible baseplate. Would do better on mills. Also I used two goblets per and not four. Four would have made them more sturdy.
Now make a stair-stepped obelisk using 1 LDU increments
It's been done by a few fans already
Can you share a link or a video?
I think it's a matter of time because the person he's talking about is in the community or could be in the community
All using the Star-spangled knife!
Steps in obelisks can be even 0.5 LDU.
This guy. We ask in the comments of one video, and in the next one he delivers. And on such short notice. And over Christmas. I mean, a lot of youtube channels are close with their communities, but this is on another level
Thank you so much! I love hearing from everyone and it helps me figure out what to do next. I won't have any super exciting content for a week or so because I just went on vacation. But I have a few videos qued up to hold you all over!
It's quite impressive that lego is even manufactured consistently enough for this to work out with random pieces, or for it to be noticeable when a piece like the neck bracket goes from 3 to 4 LDU
I agree its a very impressive system.
Your channel is a real goldmine for lego builders. Love it
Thank you so much!
Wow! When you think about it, it makes sense that since the fingernail ridges around the edges of plates to help lifting them are 1 LDU wide, they would intentionally design the goblets with a similar-sized gap between the goblet rim and the underside of a round 1x1 stud edge that is inserted into it, because otherwise the stud would be flush with the goblet and quite difficult to remove!
Yeah its genius isn't it.
Another benefit of the goblets solution is that it lets you stack them easier than with the neckbrackets which prevent using the studs of their support.
Yes I agree
Honestly the fact that you did this even though you really didn’t need to is worth a subscribe
Thanks and welcome!
A missed opportunity with the color coding is that you could have made the plates for all the 1 LDU increments be black, while even amounts are white. That way, you could have taken a side profile shot with the camera and show just how thin the different slivers are when seen from that side.
Yeah that's a good idea
I am glad this video set exists because it shows neat ways to add just a mite of texture to a wall. You could just imagine the 2ldu indent for a dented piece of drywall
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoy it!
This series is incredibly useful. I love the gradual ldu increments. It looks so smooth. Amazing. Thank you
Thanks I am glad you find it useful.
U are by far one of the best lego channels I've come across in my lifetime. Great vid
Wow, thanks!
@bricksculpt of course I've learned a lot from your channel
Oh heck yeah! My mind is sufficiently blown.
I had my suspicions, and I was right. You are a genius.
I am also correct about an LDU measuring 0.4mm. AKA 400 microns. AKA micrometers. 400 times one millionth of one meter. Some types of hair are that thick! For reference.
All this helps me understand why certain part configurations haven't matched up correctly. I thought 'half plate thick thinking' should be working, but I have an LDU anomaly interfering with perfect fit. I didn't have that problem with the cube kaleidoscope. I was thinking about the half plate stuff from the beginning and that's why I did it in one day. The fact that i only made two types of constructions (four sided and two for top and bottom) also made it quick. But issues with another build are something I can understand now. I probably won't wrack my brain for days now. Understanding this might help me make tighter mirror tubes for kaleidoscopes too. They'll be better with less gap between the sides if I think in LDU.
I hope you are also right about there being other ways of achieving the different thicknesses. That's like the Holy Grail now.
Thanks buddy!
Another excellent video. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Would be interesting to see increments of 1-2 LDUs in vertical, you know I'm obsessed with variable terrain height it gives a lot of depth on an axis that tend to be too flattened, I guess also because the minifigures are 1,6 meters fatties :D
PS: Happy holidays!!
Same concept would apply but I believe it would need to work off snot and then just rotate them to unSNOT them (if that makes sense lol) in order to utilize the jumper plate correctly.
I like the goblet solution because I figure you can use only 1 wide, but also 2x2. The interesting investigation is if you could achieve these LDU surface offsets on a surface that is a partial stud wide. What I mean is that your ramp is 40 studs long (800 LDU long) and 40 LDU tall. Can you achieve these increments on a shorter ramp? Or even just different areas
Alright, quarter LDU video when? Because it is possible, in 2 ways, to work with quarter LDUs. The first is the easier but less satisfying solution, which is understanding that each wall of a brick or plate is actually 0.1mm, ot 1/4 LDU off from the 2.5 plate tall measurement of 1 stud. The more satisfying way is using the difference in the hole heights of technic bricks vs. SNOT bricks, which again, is 0.1mm, or 1/4 LDU. To get each between 0/4 and 4/4 of an LDU, you can stack them on top of each other.
So when you refer to technic bricks are you talking about a brick with holes and technic pins in it or something else? please give me a part number to refer to on this one I am very curious.
@bricksculpt yes, things like piece 6541, Technic, Brick 1 x 1 with hole. Now the exact height difference is something I'm just taking someone else's word for, but we do know they are different heights, hence why it is illegal to put a snot brick into one and sandwich it with plates. It does seem to be about 0.1 mm, and the figure does come from measurements, though I would have to look again to find the source(s) that I got that measurement from.
You could also achieve 1/4 LDU's by inserting small paper slips or gaskets in between stud connections like you do with the minifig brackets; 20lb copy paper is right about 0.1mm in thickness which would be perfect for this.
It would be cool to use this technique to make perspective models. Where the walls and ceiling shift in a way that could make an optical illusion!
I agree!
Saving this for later, I'm definitely gonna try this on a moc
Awesome, didn't know about the goblet technique!
Ona type of piece which (I think?) is 1 LDU thick is the ridge on a half-pin, as it is half the thickness of a newer neck-bracket, thus making it 1 LDU thick. It has previously annoyed me that technic holes which do not have a recess prevent me from making continuous and in system builds.
Now, use a 1x1 modified tile with a clip. You can have an adjustable goblet with stud.
So we have an ldu ruler right their. Have you thought of checking the door rail piece to see if its rational or confined within the ldu build limit?
I'm definitely going to do that now lol
@@bricksculpt and?
Clever stuff. Just wondering, when looking at 13:52, some steps seem smaller than others. Like between 5 and 6 LDU the increase is almost nothing but between 6 and 7 seems bigger. Or were some pieces not fully pressed home?
The base has flexibility and the connections aren't all perfect. A mills plate and 4 goblets per would help.
I first saw that goblet spacing in the Ecto 2
I got LDUs on the brain. (but that's a good thing) - Excellent video! Also - and I'm sure you commented on it or showed it maybe - you could save on goblets by using 2x2 jumpers and centering a single goblet - where applicable. ... or not
Yeah you could do that it would be less secure but doable
Great demonstration! I wonder if this could be done vertically to make a smooth incline alongside the modern road system for more vertical cities.
Great video. I have seen some mocs that would benefit from this technique. All of them were SW mocs😂
Thank you! Yes defiantly a great way to add detail.
@bricksculpt finally be able to make those round Senate buildings in StarWars😜
Sounds like a hefty build!
This one I wasn't aware of myself. Great stuff, thank you for sharing!
Thanks! and thanks for watching!
Excellent stuff
Thanks!
It's a work of art, those 1 LDU steps.
It kinda is lol can't stop looking at it.
I wouldn't be surprised if you could go even lower. It seems kind of random that putting a stud inside a goblet leaves a gap that is just the right size. There are probably other peices you can connect that will leave other sized gaps, like 1.5 LDUs for instance.
Probably. Smaller than 1 LDU and even 2 LDU gets hard to measure accurately.
Phenomenal!
Thanks
@bricksculpt I just gave it a quick go with the goblets. Such tiny increments
This is amazing
Awesome !!! 🎉
Thanks!
Excellent! Now build a whole obelisk using this method. ;)
2 LDU Increments I'm game. 1 LDU increments I'm out. lol
@@bricksculpt Haha! I don't blame you. I don't think I've ever worked in 1 LDU, and probably never will.
Haven’t finished the video yet, but how does this ratio compare to the ratio of say…. An obelisk?
The first obelisk I made has 4 LDU steps. I could update that to 2 LDU steps pretty easily. 1 LDU steps are achievable but very challenging. I don't want to try that lol
@@bricksculptha totally valid. I remember you showed a brief glimpse of (maybe Luca?) a creation from the discord of tiny level increments, and it was insane.
That’s a cool lookin angle lol
Thanks!
Could you use some of these techniques to better fill-in the "holes" in the slab-sides of the obelisk????? Just asking.
Yes, but just marginally, and the difficulty would be insane for very minimal gains.
Wonder what other uses the goblets can be put to... I'm thinking of detailing; finishing touches in a MOC.
I kinda wanna see at some point you make a build that would be the combination of all those techniques you've shown o your channel
I have been thinking that myself its just quite time consuming and Im not sure what to build. I will likely come up with something soon.
I wonder if TLG is curious that a video about this hasn’t been made yet or are they surprised this guy has cracked their code? Great content!
Good question lol it this is definitely not my original idea so I cant take credit for cracking any code but I am trying to make it more commonly known.
@ well put sir.
I kept trying to think of a Lego version of 'The 12 days of Xmas' for your listing of pieces to achieve each LDU increment the entire video...
Lol I can see that
Ive never been happier.
Great to hear!
"And it's gonna look like it barely sticks out because it barely sticks out"
I love maths.
Lol
Umm what piece number is the older minifig neck bracket? I learn alot from this channel and this community!
42446. Im glad the videos are helpful!
so cool
Thanks!
Imagine finding a way to use this with those hinged rocker pieces to make super incremental slopes at various angles.
mind = blown
You might be able to use clips to make the goblets a bit more compact.
That is a good idea it might turn it into a sliding piece though thus making the goblet portion meaningless when you could just use a bar instead.
@@bricksculpt If you can do this step thing with sliding bars and clips, doesn't that mean an LDU is technically infinitesimal? 😜
Got me thinking.. what about those translucent 1x2 parts? Don't they allow you to achieve an arbitrary amount of precision? (With the help of jumpers)
Yes with sliding pieces you can get any size increment.
I wonder what the smallest 1LDU sphere is you can make. I can see it being pretty small when creating a circle with plates (so on a 1x4LDU grid), but to do a complete sphere is beyond me.
using a similar method to your 45 degree rotation using transparent 2x1 bricks, couldn't you achieve even lower numbers than 1 ldu via sliding the pieces since they have no middle stud?
Yes that is correct.
It's good for building Lego battleships to Minifigure scale
Oh i like that idea!
The odd-goblet method.
Almost all the steps can be done in a multitude of ways, most of them more difficult than showcased here, with the exception of the middle step, which can be made simply by putting a 2x2 brick on jumpers, thus achieving 10 LDU.
Yes that is true
I was also disappointed about this, until I realized that the way shown in this video shows more of the underlying regularity of the construction.
I'm surprised you didn't mention the bar and clip connection. I feel that should theoretically give infinitely more options, since you can freely slide the clip along the bar, without any restrictions.
That would no longer really be a Lego-related unit
There are many ways to create infinite positions. The purpose is to show the achievable divisions of the system with none sliding connections.
It would be cool if there was a grooved bar that had a groove at each LDU so you could measure other pieces.
@@bricksculpt Ah, fair point.
You know we need to see an obelisk with ldu patterns
Back to Obelisk Version 1....
Yessssss
It's gonna look like it barely sticks out because it barely sticks out😂
lol
So there's no way to do this with one-stud steps that's also flush with the surface?
Please clarify I don't understand the question.
I think he means can you make the slope SOT rather than SNOT @@bricksculpt
@@bricksculpt Your example uses two-peg steps, and I'm wondering if it's possible to do the same thing with one-peg steps without adding that tiny gap at the bottom.
@@NickCombs I would believe that it's got to be possible. The headlight brick aligns the snot plates/tiles to the top, but that's not actually a problem. If you put a headlight brick on top of 2 plates, and stick a 1x1 plate onto the SNOT side of the headlight, then you can build something that sticks out as much as a bracket and is 1 stud wide (but still 2 studs tall).
Not really related to the content of the video, but I'd like to point out that "LDU" stands for "LDraw Unit", NOT "LEGO Draw Unit". While the L in LDraw is presumed to stand for "LEGO", I don't think it is ever explicitly stated to be such (presumably for trademark reasons).
Interesting thanks!
and they said tapering in lego was hard!
so a brick is 20x20x24 LDU?
You got it
How many LDUs thick is part 6134 (2x2 hinge brick)??
2 LDU
@ is there a way to look this up or do you just know things?
Bruh, that's some nerd shit.
More please, that was very satisfying lol I also never realized just HOW SMALL 1 LDU is.
LOL Thanks! I will try to keep them coming.
The real question is: How many LDUs tall is the bottom gap left behind by the headlight brick and neck brackets?
Should be 1/2 plate 4 LDU
Is is just me or is the difference from goblet to no goblet different than no goblet to goblet?
I think it might be just a piece per piece difference due to production. So maybe the 1x1 round stud sometimes goes in a bit lower or higher than supposed.
I don't think so. This also has some room for error because it has a flexible baseplate. Would do better on mills. Also I used two goblets per and not four. Four would have made them more sturdy.
I’m so lost, but it looks cool though.
Any specific question you want answered to unloose you?
Lol it get more complicated with each level.