Brilliant video, well made and most informative but most of all you have restored my sanity knowing that I'm not the only one still left in this world that still grovels underneath their shonkie old motor in order to save a penny or two and keep it on the road. Big fan of the old copper grease as well, if only every body else could see the light of lubrication.
A good and clearly explained/filmed video - thankyou. I have just done my ball joint on my BX and though I replaced it only four years ago it was so firmly corroded into place that the old ball joint would not move. The amount of pressure that I had to put on it meant that the pins on the special socket tore into the metal and it wouldn't grip on the ball joint anymore. I had to weld a large nut onto the ball joint and even then the force required ( with a long scaffold bar) to move it was enormous. In such cases the thread in the hub carrier must be thoroughly cleaned with wire wool and WD40 before putting in the new ball joint otherwise it just won't go in, let alone as sweetly as this one does in the vid. Also take care with the gaiter when installing the new ball joint - it's very easy to split it.
Thanks for the video. Very simply explained and not too much time wasted leading in. Great idea to lay out all the stuff needed. Very clear to see & good angle during video. I will be working on my old 306, but thought I would check this out.
Thanks Gordon for putting this video on youtube! It really made a difference for my project with a 14 years old Citroen C5. In my case a blowtoch had to be mixed in the cocktail. The ball joints treads was filled with rust, so a little shock treatment was required to crack up the rust.I can only support your philosophy of greasing ALL treads before assembly, I use molybdenum disulfide grease when high temperature is not involved. It protects against corrosion, everything comes apart nicely even after 10-15 years.
i will give the moly grease a try. copper grease does seam to lose effectiveness after 3+years. i have also started tapeing exposed threads with self amalgamating tape to prevent rust buildup especially on anti roll bar ball joints and lower ball joints It turns a 2 hour job into a 10 min one.
Top man I have been looking everywhere for this. Did it once b4 and had to take the whole hub of take to my local garage and came back the shaft popped out and oil everywhere. Also the ratchet strap is a clever idea as well never thought of that and using the wheel studs. Thanks very much
Great video simple to follow. I have a 2012 508 estate. With a “knuckle type ball joint” that I am going to attempt to change any info on that. I see most people remove the hub nut and pull out drive shaft but hoping it’s not necessary. Nice video !
Snap. same here. But mine is 2011. I havent done the lower ball joint on its own. I did it as part of changing the clutch. (not an easy job). The lower ball is very easy compared with the 406. It is held on with bolts. I held the top dome with a pair of mole grips and undid the nut underneath. Removing the drive shaft nut and pushing the drive shaft it in slightly, will give you more room to remove the joint and lessen the risk of accidentally pulling the shaft out the gearbox. Good luck.
I did very similar with the ratchet strap, but I put it further up around the shock absorber and then round the subframe mount. I too had the problem where the whole assembly just wanted to turn and pull the drive shaft out the box. The ratchet strap method works well.
Thanks bro the way grunted as you took the strain has fully prepared me for this endeavour.. I gotto replace two on an x reg citroen saxo i already successfully replaced two rotten drive shafts..Its gonna be a yarn..
The one that I had was 35mm. however there may be different makers of the tool who use a different sized socket end. I have used a 36mm but with the amount of effort required to turn it, i do like to use the correct size and a 6 sided socket rather than the 12 sided one, so it works on the flats rather than the corners.
That's a great video thanks for it.. I am having a issue separating the ball joint on my 307.. the assembly is similar to yours but the ball joint seperator I am using seems to have a small center bit.. I think I need a wider one.. could you tell me which one you are using or the measurement on the one you are using?
I find very easy way to unscrew this joint off with flat wrench and hammer. I done this with my Xantia. Wrench must be tightened with shims and original nut. Just hitting the wrench with the hammer helps unscrew it very fast. Off course I used same tool wit 4 tooth. Similarly to you I used first time long steel bar. But second time just hammer.
very good video very good use off cooper greace its brill stuff, i like the way you use your rachet strap very clever i have a Citroen c15 van when i go over a ramp the front of the van makes a sqelshing sound not sure if its shocks or bushins any ides what it could be many thanks Stephen
I am missing good straps so I just clamped another steel bar to the brake disc so I had two long levers, both pushing the opposite direction when untightening.. Did both balljoints at once on my Xantia.. both heat shields were missing and the right balljoint was looking good, replaced 4 years ago so maybe I will not put any heat shields on. Otherwise I can just clamp piece of sheetmetal around like the Honed heat shield available online.. But I believe it could be OK without any. Thanks!
Great vid! Can you tell me the name of the tools to tighten up the ball joint to the suspension arm? the one that needs the 35ml deep socket as I am in desperate need for one. Thanks
Excellent video and on the job explanation. Just to save me searching all the comments and replies, did you forget to replace the bottom heat shield when you rejoined the pivot arm?? Just wondered!
chris curwen I did replace the heat shield. The heat shield is so important as the new joint will not last long. I had to hand make a new one out of scrap sheet metal and held in place with a jubilee clip. I just didn't add that to the video. Well spotted.
Thanks for an informative video with a small glitch (alas my own fault not thinking about it beforehand) When you set the tool on the ball joint, make sure the teeth gets grip on both groves otherwise it will end up like mine... outer groove? gone inner intact and yes.. the sodder is still laughing at me, have to take the whole thing down and use a gentle touch with the sledgehammer and blowtorch? or do you have a trick for this aswell? Always use greese like the perfect copper paste on bolts that do need to be removed at times, wheelbolts, balljoints etc. the aspect that torque limits are not counted for use with lubricants is a new one for me, but alas give it a slight more twist and problem solved :D
I do lightly peen the ball joint to lock it in place. However with the amount of torque you apply to put it back on I dont think it will move. Better to be safe and lock it.
I'm doing this very job on a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso (it failed the MoT on a front bottom ball joint) but mine doesn't have the notches for the special tool. It is just a 41mm hex. I've ordered the ball joint tool from a motor factor and I'm hoping it isn't one with the notches like yours otherwise I'm no further on with the job.
It is a normal 41mm 6 sided impact socket. I documented the (failed) job on my own channel in Part 24 of my C4 Grand Picasso videos. I probably would've succeeded if I'd had my cordless impact wrench back then.
Thanks so much mate for taking the time to post this. Can I just ask, does the bottom part of the splitter rest against the bottom of the arm itself or the end of the ball joint bolt? Cheers. Glenn.
I have just split my lower ball joint, the bottom "finger" of the splitter rests on the very bottom of the shaft of the ball joint where the lower nut came off. NOT on the arm. The two fingered bit bashes in between the rubber and the lower arm. You can actually just loosen off that very bottom nut and take it to the end of the shaft and rest the bottom finger of the splitter on that.
Excellent video, thanks a ton. Is a 1/2" square drive breaker bar sufficient for this task ? It's a bit difficult to see if its 3/4" or 1/2" in the video, and i'm worried that'll break my 1/2"
It was a 1/2" that I used. And it did bend to an extraordinary extent. The head rivet did eventually break after the 12th ball joint replacement. The funny thing was it broke putting a new one on, rather than taking it off. My replacement is also a 1/2" with a replaceable head if that one snaps. Unpeen the joint as best you can and soak it in penetrating oil, make sure every thing is tight. Keep it level. Get the help from a friend and try to break that bar. It takes brute force and lots of it. Good luck.
Im trying this in sweden and I thank you for the video. When I first jacked up my peugeot 406 I only saw the knuckle and tonnes of rust. It seemed as if there was no threaded joint connected to it at all. More like a one piece. After this video at least I know there is one and I can order a new balljoint and not the whole spider. But seriously where do you get that round shaped metal adapter thing above the bar?? Is that a common tool?...Maybe it is possible to make one from a fat bolt or something
wadawaddah You will not be able to see the threads of the lower suspension ball joint until it has been unscrewed. Also the heat protection shroud obscures the cut out knotches. The joint is on very tight and with rust even tighter. I have tried other methods of getting the joint off, hammer and chisel but you run a real risk of damaging the joint and being unable to remove it, even with the correct tool. I got the special tool from eBay. Search for Lower Ball Joint Socket Peugeot There are 2 sizes but you only need the smaller one. I would always use the correct tool for this job. I have seen many which have been botched and these require replacing the whole hub
The outside diameter is 50mm. I have seen them for sale on ebay. The peugeot 405 one is the same. So search for lower ball joint socket peugeot 405 on ebay will get you what you want. Remember you also need a 35 or 36 MM socket with it.
I am still using this car. It may be 16 years old but has a lot more life left in it. The ball joint I took off was the original and the replacement is still going strong. It just passed its MOT annual safety check.
i disagree, the arm second hand will possably have worn ball joints, and on this car the ball joint is not on the arm itself , its in the hub. new ball joint is less than 20 euros
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Lower-Ball-Joint-Socket-Peugeot-405-Citroen-Specialised-Ball-Joint-Tools-/351253111096?hash=item51c8512138:g:YIMAAOSwUuFW1Ofj I see what you mean. There used to be loads. The 405 tool does the 406 as well as far as I remember.
I keep my cars till they drop. My 406 estate is now 17 years old and I have had it for 10 years. I expect to keep it for another 5 years at least If I had not used copper grease. I am sure it would have been scrapped years ago. Almost every nut and bolt is greased. Most jobs I have done 3 or 4 times and only possible because I can get the bolts off. When I bought a replacement car (much newer) I couldn't get the wheel nuts off and they finally they sheered off. Simple jobs took days rather than hours and I decided that running original car was the best option. It's like the mar-mite debate love it, hate it. You know my side of this debate
Well my concern towards greased wheel bolts is that I've had bolts loosen themselves a couple of times. They need enough friction to stay put. I've had my Xantia berline for 18 years and 480.000km. A lot of threads where greased, but some where glued with locktite like pully bolts and some had nothing on them like the wheel bolts. Taking them off has never been a problem.
The real reason for manuals stating not to grease threads is because you will never get the correct torque value (unless stated to grease). Because of the reduced friction from the grease you will always end up over tightening the bolts. But if you feel comfortable doing so then there is no reason to stop.
To be fair, the tracking and steering angles do not change when you replace this design of joint, unlike the easier bolt of types which have some play in the bolts. Ask me which I prefer and I would go with the bolt off version.
@@bunnybr true but really you would get your tracking done anually aleast anyway and its mainly your tie rods that affect toe usually camber is non adjustable on most everyday road car. But yes a good design if u never have to change them.
Brilliant video, well made and most informative but most of all you have restored my sanity knowing that I'm not the only one still left in this world that still grovels underneath their shonkie old motor in order to save a penny or two and keep it on the road. Big fan of the old copper grease as well, if only every body else could see the light of lubrication.
A good and clearly explained/filmed video - thankyou. I have just done my ball joint on my BX and though I replaced it only four years ago it was so firmly corroded into place that the old ball joint would not move. The amount of pressure that I had to put on it meant that the pins on the special socket tore into the metal and it wouldn't grip on the ball joint anymore. I had to weld a large nut onto the ball joint and even then the force required ( with a long scaffold bar) to move it was enormous. In such cases the thread in the hub carrier must be thoroughly cleaned with wire wool and WD40 before putting in the new ball joint otherwise it just won't go in, let alone as sweetly as this one does in the vid. Also take care with the gaiter when installing the new ball joint - it's very easy to split it.
A lot of content. Problematic aspects exposed from the rest & presented in easiest way possible. That was very helpful. Thank you.
Thank you many, many times. Your instructions will be saving me a lot of trouble.
Thanks for the video. Very simply explained and not too much time wasted leading in. Great idea to lay out all the stuff needed. Very clear to see & good angle during video. I will be working on my old 306, but thought I would check this out.
Thanks Gordon for putting this video on youtube! It really made a difference for my project with a 14 years old Citroen C5. In my case a blowtoch had to be mixed in the cocktail. The ball joints treads was filled with rust, so a little shock treatment was required to crack up the rust.I can only support your philosophy of greasing ALL treads before assembly, I use molybdenum disulfide grease when high temperature is not involved. It protects against corrosion, everything comes apart nicely even after 10-15 years.
i will give the moly grease a try. copper grease does seam to lose effectiveness after 3+years. i have also started tapeing exposed threads with self amalgamating tape to prevent rust buildup especially on anti roll bar ball joints and lower ball joints It turns a 2 hour job into a 10 min one.
Cracking vid thank you for taking the time to post
Thanks for putting the time in to make these vids.
Top man I have been looking everywhere for this. Did it once b4 and had to take the whole hub of take to my local garage and came back the shaft popped out and oil everywhere. Also the ratchet strap is a clever idea as well never thought of that and using the wheel studs. Thanks very much
Very informative! Thanks for taking the time and trouble to do this.
Great video simple to follow. I have a 2012 508 estate. With a “knuckle type ball joint” that I am going to attempt to change any info on that. I see most people remove the hub nut and pull out drive shaft but hoping it’s not necessary.
Nice video !
Snap. same here. But mine is 2011. I havent done the lower ball joint on its own. I did it as part of changing the clutch. (not an easy job). The lower ball is very easy compared with the 406. It is held on with bolts. I held the top dome with a pair of mole grips and undid the nut underneath. Removing the drive shaft nut and pushing the drive shaft it in slightly, will give you more room to remove the joint and lessen the risk of accidentally pulling the shaft out the gearbox. Good luck.
Thanks for this video! Very helpful for those of us who don't want to be ripped off by our mechanic.
thanks so much it was very use full video now i know how to do it by my self
Gordon, great videos thank u
Thanks for the video. It was a great help to me.
Well done Good Job ✌from England🇬🇧
I did very similar with the ratchet strap, but I put it further up around the shock absorber and then round the subframe mount. I too had the problem where the whole assembly just wanted to turn and pull the drive shaft out the box. The ratchet strap method works well.
Excellent video well done.
Thanks bro the way grunted as you took the strain has fully prepared me for this endeavour.. I gotto replace two on an x reg citroen saxo i already successfully replaced two rotten drive shafts..Its gonna be a yarn..
guitari23 It wasn't grunting, it was over 50 involuntary noises.
Thank you very much.- Great video. I'd do it myself, but I don't have the necessary tools.
Well Done very informative !!!
Great Vid and very informative...would have like to have seen the way you put on the sportive strapping.
Really informative Video! Thank you :)
The one that I had was 35mm. however there may be different makers of the tool who use a different sized socket end. I have used a 36mm but with the amount of effort required to turn it, i do like to use the correct size and a 6 sided socket rather than the 12 sided one, so it works on the flats rather than the corners.
The U bit is 20mm across and 32mm deep. The jaw opening capacity, fully opened is 75mm hope that helps
Great video.
Thanx for this educational video mate
great movie, very help full thanks
Sehr gut gemacht.Respekt.Gruß aus Deutschland.
That's a great video thanks for it.. I am having a issue separating the ball joint on my 307.. the assembly is similar to yours but the ball joint seperator I am using seems to have a small center bit.. I think I need a wider one.. could you tell me which one you are using or the measurement on the one you are using?
I find very easy way to unscrew this joint off with flat wrench and hammer. I done this with my Xantia. Wrench must be tightened with shims and original nut. Just hitting the wrench with the hammer helps unscrew it very fast. Off course I used same tool wit 4 tooth. Similarly to you I used first time long steel bar. But second time just hammer.
well done, well explained video,
Yes, Glasgow, Scotland
Well done...🙂👍👍👍
Muy bueno, me sirvio mucho
The older xud engines were bomb proof. The 20ltr hdi are pretty good but injectors have issues
very good video very good use off cooper greace its brill stuff, i like the way you use your rachet strap very clever
i have a Citroen c15 van when i go over a ramp the front of the van makes a sqelshing sound not sure if its shocks or bushins any ides what it could be many thanks Stephen
I am missing good straps so I just clamped another steel bar to the brake disc so I had two long levers, both pushing the opposite direction when untightening.. Did both balljoints at once on my Xantia.. both heat shields were missing and the right balljoint was looking good, replaced 4 years ago so maybe I will not put any heat shields on. Otherwise I can just clamp piece of sheetmetal around like the Honed heat shield available online.. But I believe it could be OK without any. Thanks!
Great vid! Can you tell me the name of the tools to tighten up the ball joint to the suspension arm? the one that needs the 35ml deep socket as I am in desperate need for one. Thanks
Good man. Your wee beauty
Super VIDEO 👍 Pozdrawiam z POLAND 🙋♂️🍻
Excellent video and on the job explanation.
Just to save me searching all the comments and replies, did you forget to replace the bottom heat shield when you rejoined the pivot arm?? Just wondered!
chris curwen I did replace the heat shield. The heat shield is so important as the new joint will not last long. I had to hand make a new one out of scrap sheet metal and held in place with a jubilee clip. I just didn't add that to the video. Well spotted.
Great! Thanks for this - Keep that copper grease away from rubber parts but!
chalkhills01 Well spotted. I now use silicon grease to protect rubber bits and boots. Thanks for your comments.
Thanks for an informative video with a small glitch (alas my own fault not thinking about it beforehand) When you set the tool on the ball joint, make sure the teeth gets grip on both groves otherwise it will end up like mine... outer groove? gone inner intact and yes.. the sodder is still laughing at me, have to take the whole thing down and use a gentle touch with the sledgehammer and blowtorch? or do you have a trick for this aswell?
Always use greese like the perfect copper paste on bolts that do need to be removed at times, wheelbolts, balljoints etc. the aspect that torque limits are not counted for use with lubricants is a new one for me, but alas give it a slight more twist and problem solved :D
Hi Gordon, the heat shield is readily available from dealerships, part number 3623.06, £4.70 each.
I do lightly peen the ball joint to lock it in place. However with the amount of torque you apply to put it back on I dont think it will move. Better to be safe and lock it.
I'm doing this very job on a Citroen C4 Grand Picasso (it failed the MoT on a front bottom ball joint) but mine doesn't have the notches for the special tool. It is just a 41mm hex. I've ordered the ball joint tool from a motor factor and I'm hoping it isn't one with the notches like yours otherwise I'm no further on with the job.
It is a normal 41mm 6 sided impact socket. I documented the (failed) job on my own channel in Part 24 of my C4 Grand Picasso videos. I probably would've succeeded if I'd had my cordless impact wrench back then.
Do you have to lock the new lower ball joint when its in place?
Thanks so much mate for taking the time to post this. Can I just ask, does the bottom part of the splitter rest against the bottom of the arm itself or the end of the ball joint bolt?
Cheers. Glenn.
I have just split my lower ball joint, the bottom "finger" of the splitter rests on the very bottom of the shaft of the ball joint where the lower nut came off. NOT on the arm. The two fingered bit bashes in between the rubber and the lower arm. You can actually just loosen off that very bottom nut and take it to the end of the shaft and rest the bottom finger of the splitter on that.
How tight for the punchers and the main bolt though the sub frame in ft lbs
Excellent video, thanks a ton.
Is a 1/2" square drive breaker bar sufficient for this task ? It's a bit difficult to see if its 3/4" or 1/2" in the video, and i'm worried that'll break my 1/2"
It was a 1/2" that I used. And it did bend to an extraordinary extent. The head rivet did eventually break after the 12th ball joint replacement. The funny thing was it broke putting a new one on, rather than taking it off. My replacement is also a 1/2" with a replaceable head if that one snaps. Unpeen the joint as best you can and soak it in penetrating oil, make sure every thing is tight. Keep it level. Get the help from a friend and try to break that bar. It takes brute force and lots of it. Good luck.
@@bunnybr Excellent, I'll give it a shot. Thanks for the info :)
Im trying this in sweden and I thank you for the video. When I first jacked up my peugeot 406 I only saw the knuckle and tonnes of rust. It seemed as if there was no threaded joint connected to it at all. More like a one piece. After this video at least I know there is one and I can order a new balljoint and not the whole spider. But seriously where do you get that round shaped metal adapter thing above the bar?? Is that a common tool?...Maybe it is possible to make one from a fat bolt or something
wadawaddah You will not be able to see the threads of the lower suspension ball joint until it has been unscrewed. Also the heat protection shroud obscures the cut out knotches. The joint is on very tight and with rust even tighter. I have tried other methods of getting the joint off, hammer and chisel but you run a real risk of damaging the joint and being unable to remove it, even with the correct tool. I got the special tool from eBay. Search for Lower Ball Joint Socket Peugeot There are 2 sizes but you only need the smaller one. I would always use the correct tool for this job. I have seen many which have been botched and these require replacing the whole hub
where do I get this special tool to screw off/on the joint? It must be a special tool and eases the work considerably!
I got mine from Ebay. They come in pairs but you only really need the smaller one.
The tool that you use to losen the arm, it's the fork thingy with a bolt on the end 😂 what dimension in order to get it around the ball joint?
The outside diameter is 50mm. I have seen them for sale on ebay. The peugeot 405 one is the same. So search for lower ball joint socket peugeot 405 on ebay will get you what you want. Remember you also need a 35 or 36 MM socket with it.
Lower Ball Joint Socket. Ebay is your best bet
If you could tell me the jaw opening capacity of your separator that would be a lot of help.
I have the ball joints to do on my 307 thanks for the heads up . Bunnybr .. i am wondering if you still have the car.
I still have the car and will have for many years to come.
That bottom ball joint will be due in a couple of years mate.
Almost 10 years on from the video and that ball joint has been replaced once since then. Still on the road and still going strong.
great video! just curious, how long lasted this ball joint? or maybe the car was sold. cheers!
I am still using this car. It may be 16 years old but has a lot more life left in it. The ball joint I took off was the original and the replacement is still going strong. It just passed its MOT annual safety check.
+gembowicz I'm replacing mine now. 16 years as well.
+T Jansson as it turned out mine was also original that worked for 16 years as well :-)
Haven't worked on a C15 so not sure what it could be.Sorry
eurocarparts has this balljoint socket: sealy SX027
it's pretty useful for older cars (say 20 years and over); otherwise isn't it easier to buy used arms ?
are you scottish?i would say so but strangely i can still understand you.otherwise great video thanks mate
mine was as tight as hell all the way and same with new one a total nightmare
i disagree, the arm second hand will possably have worn ball joints, and on this car the ball joint is not on the arm itself , its in the hub. new ball joint is less than 20 euros
Hello bunnybr did you have a link from ebay for the tool plz ?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-Lower-Ball-Joint-Socket-Peugeot-405-Citroen-Specialised-Ball-Joint-Tools-/351253111096?hash=item51c8512138:g:YIMAAOSwUuFW1Ofj
I see what you mean. There used to be loads. The 405 tool does the 406 as well as far as I remember.
bunnybr merci thanks
Are you sure its a 35m socket and not a 34m? 35m is just bloody awkward!
Zavrtnji tocka se nepodmazuju jer se u voznji odvrnu i tocak u tom slucaju odpadne u .
how many mil. have that Ball joint socket
richardDjYogi The socket for the ball joint tool that I used was a 35mm. Hope this helps.
Putting grease on wheel nuts is debatable. I personally don't do it.
I keep my cars till they drop. My 406 estate is now 17 years old and I have had it for 10 years. I expect to keep it for another 5 years at least If I had not used copper grease. I am sure it would have been scrapped years ago. Almost every nut and bolt is greased. Most jobs I have done 3 or 4 times and only possible because I can get the bolts off. When I bought a replacement car (much newer) I couldn't get the wheel nuts off and they finally they sheered off. Simple jobs took days rather than hours and I decided that running original car was the best option. It's like the mar-mite debate love it, hate it. You know my side of this debate
Well my concern towards greased wheel bolts is that I've had bolts loosen themselves a couple of times. They need enough friction to stay put. I've had my Xantia berline for 18 years and 480.000km. A lot of threads where greased, but some where glued with locktite like pully bolts and some had nothing on them like the wheel bolts. Taking them off has never been a problem.
I agree, my workshop manual specifically states to not grease the nuts, the wheel and nuts must be dry.
The real reason for manuals stating not to grease threads is because you will never get the correct torque value (unless stated to grease). Because of the reduced friction from the grease you will always end up over tightening the bolts.
But if you feel comfortable doing so then there is no reason to stop.
Pain get bull joint out can be
7:45 you cut the video, ?
EX VID TKS
Forgot the heat shield
Later I did furnish it with a heat shield cut and bent to shape and held in with a jubilee clamp. You are right the joint wont last long without one.
All this for a ball joint, only the french would make it this difficult pita job.
To be fair, the tracking and steering angles do not change when you replace this design of joint, unlike the easier bolt of types which have some play in the bolts. Ask me which I prefer and I would go with the bolt off version.
@@bunnybr true but really you would get your tracking done anually aleast anyway and its mainly your tie rods that affect toe usually camber is non adjustable on most everyday road car. But yes a good design if u never have to change them.
What a horrible design idea thank god my c3 Picasso is all attached to the arm I'm just replace the lot
The C3 as I remember can be unbolted and the new one just bolted back on.