I have the same code that had my check engine light come on, on my 2016 3.5 Eb. I do have a code reader, which has allowed me to delete the code...and so far (one week) it hasn't reappeared! Apparently another trick to find out more information, is to take the truck for a drive, and at a location where you can slide under the truck, take one of the laser devices to check for how hot your exhaust is. The inlet side (turbo side) 'should' be less hot, than the exhaust (outlet) side. It seems whatever action that goes on inside the CAT, it heats even more to burn off the gasses, thus is hotter. Mine was around 100 degrees hotter coming out of the CAT than going in. So, I'm thinking or assuming my sensor made need replacing! Another trick mentioned today by a highly recognized Ford Tech, was to take a rubber mallet (once cooled down I believe) and tap the bottom of the CAT, and listen for something bouncing around inside (the one he was tapping sounded like it had some rocks inside bouncing around). Thanks for the video! On edit- the previous owner took off the shield, and it's never been put back on, and I've had no issues in not having it. Also, another tip, they say to undo the electrical clip of the sensor, before taking it out. As you turn it, the wire turns as well, so you need it disconnected!
The way I see it. The p0420 is the biggest scam automakers have come up with. Here's why. Even if your cat is below efficiency, it still is working to clean the emission. It's just contaminated with oily residue from bad gas. So get some premium fuel and ride that car the way Italians do to clean their cats. They go to Germany and ride the Autobahn at +90MPH. The deal is that whenever this code comes up, the dealer will upsell an OEM cat that costs hundreds of dollars to install. Even with a new one, that P0420 may still come back if you don't remedy the underlying problem. For me, the shop that changed my oil filter added a little too much oil and this went through the PCV valve and into my intake manifold and fouled up the cat. That's the scam. Now I have to use that oxygen sensor spacer till the cats burns through that oil. I'd rather burn through that cat till the core melts. In my county, we don't do emissions. Rural areas don't have as many hippies messing up our way of life and telling us how to run our cars. Our air is clean because the area is sparsely populated by criminal government types unlike the big cities.
For 2018-2020 owners beware. These year models have oil consumption problems. Excess oil being expelled through the exhaust will clog and pack off your catalytic converters! I own a 2020 and finally pulled my y-pipe to inspect the cats to find a packed off and broken up passenger side catalytic converter. Yep, time for a new engine. Check it, before you wreck it. It’s not always “just a sensor.”
@@737mechanic Yes I used it a couple weeks ago and it is kind of crazy how quickly the light went out and has stayed out since putting the bottle in my gas tank. Also noticed a pretty decent increase in throttle performance.
Thanks for the video. What size bit did you use to open up the hole in the non-fouler? Looking to do this project this weekend to address my P0430 code. Thanks!
I saw in another video that they drilled out one defouler entirely with 1/2" bit then added a second undrilled defouler to the end with the option of adding stainless steel wool between them.
It reduces the sensitivity of the downstream o2 sensors so the engine light won't come on or won't come on as quickly. The underlying issue is the catalytic converters are losing their efficiency. The right way to fix it is to replace the catalytic converters. I just looked up the price of them now and they are about $300 per side or you can try this $5 fix and get down the road for a few more years.
I put cataclean, also put lacquer thinner. I sprayed sea foam and still code. If u used spacers, would it matter if theres holes in the muffler after downstream sensor. Or does the muffler not suppose to have holes for the spacersto work.. ?
@737mechanic well, used Space r and kept resetting the code with I'm readiness and still getting p0420 and p0430..🤔 drove already with 3 tanks of gas and still keep popin on..also replaced all 02 sensors.. fkn thing
I did this on our Jeep Wrangler that the Engine light would come on about 3 days after resetting the light, after I installed these it stayed off 3 years until it came back on. This Ford F-150 the light has not come back on yet and it has been a couple of years.
I have a Ford Expedition and I have had the code P0420 from 7 months ago, friend I changed the catalyst and the oxygen sensor and the engine check is still going on, my car is 2020, what can I do? Do I do what you did in the video? Where can I buy that piece of the video? Do I necessarily have to go to a turner to modify the piece? I don't know what to do anymore, I added some caralizer cleaner and it didn't work either.
@@manuelbarrios8941 You can try the spacer and that will probably help. You may not need to drill it out but if the O2 doesn't screw into it you will have too. Make sure you get it on the correct bank. On a lot of ford engines bank 1 is on the passenger side and bank 2 is on the drivers side.
You can also get longer non-foulers that require no modifications, O'Reilly's carries them 2 for around $12 dollars, I installed them in my 2014 f150 a week ago and so far the check engine light hasn't come on, one thing I did notice is the miles per gallon average did go up, don't know if this is because the computer thinks new or what but as long as the light stays off it's good.
No, it basically makes the o2 sensor less sensitive so it doesn't trip the engine light. Eventually, even this will stop working once the cats become even more inefficient.
@@737mechanic So the cats will eventually need replacing. They don't inspect emissions in my state, thankfully. I just wanted to get the light to go away and was hoping it wasn't harming anything. I haven't experienced any power loss at all. Maybe it's just the sensor going bad. I thought I would try the cat cleaner someone else suggested just for fun. Thanks for your help.
@@PGuerrero1179 Bank 2 on this f-150 is the drivers side. The light will go off eventually after you drive it enough or you can clear the code by either disconnecting the battery or using a scan tool.
@@737mechanic i put it after the cats, after i did that i got (p2098 fuel trim system too lean bank 2) i tried a few diffent ways i eather got the p0420,p0430, with the non-fouler i got p2098
I do believe this man don't know what he talking about now both whether or not you move it 1 in or 2 in she'll still be reading the same amount of carbon CO2
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I have the same code that had my check engine light come on, on my 2016 3.5 Eb. I do have a code reader, which has allowed me to delete the code...and so far (one week) it hasn't reappeared! Apparently another trick to find out more information, is to take the truck for a drive, and at a location where you can slide under the truck, take one of the laser devices to check for how hot your exhaust is. The inlet side (turbo side) 'should' be less hot, than the exhaust (outlet) side. It seems whatever action that goes on inside the CAT, it heats even more to burn off the gasses, thus is hotter. Mine was around 100 degrees hotter coming out of the CAT than going in. So, I'm thinking or assuming my sensor made need replacing! Another trick mentioned today by a highly recognized Ford Tech, was to take a rubber mallet (once cooled down I believe) and tap the bottom of the CAT, and listen for something bouncing around inside (the one he was tapping sounded like it had some rocks inside bouncing around). Thanks for the video! On edit- the previous owner took off the shield, and it's never been put back on, and I've had no issues in not having it. Also, another tip, they say to undo the electrical clip of the sensor, before taking it out. As you turn it, the wire turns as well, so you need it disconnected!
The way I see it. The p0420 is the biggest scam automakers have come up with. Here's why. Even if your cat is below efficiency, it still is working to clean the emission. It's just contaminated with oily residue from bad gas. So get some premium fuel and ride that car the way Italians do to clean their cats. They go to Germany and ride the Autobahn at +90MPH.
The deal is that whenever this code comes up, the dealer will upsell an OEM cat that costs hundreds of dollars to install. Even with a new one, that P0420 may still come back if you don't remedy the underlying problem. For me, the shop that changed my oil filter added a little too much oil and this went through the PCV valve and into my intake manifold and fouled up the cat. That's the scam. Now I have to use that oxygen sensor spacer till the cats burns through that oil.
I'd rather burn through that cat till the core melts. In my county, we don't do emissions. Rural areas don't have as many hippies messing up our way of life and telling us how to run our cars. Our air is clean because the area is sparsely populated by criminal government types unlike the big cities.
I have the open end longer one - the one youre using is just 1/2 of the 2 piece parts that most folks use
I used the m18x1.5 from orileys on my 2014 ford f150 5.0 just so yall know for the fitting size. It fits pretty good.
Awesome trick and video!!
I did this same thing in both the converters on my old 07 Lincoln MKZ
That's a nice SouthWest Airlines tool chest in the video at 2:31. Did you soak the O2 sensor in AeroKroil before removing it.
No, It unscrewed easy enough so I didn't have to do anything special.
Thank you so so much for this video
For 2018-2020 owners beware. These year models have oil consumption problems. Excess oil being expelled through the exhaust will clog and pack off your catalytic converters! I own a 2020 and finally pulled my y-pipe to inspect the cats to find a packed off and broken up passenger side catalytic converter. Yep, time for a new engine. Check it, before you wreck it. It’s not always “just a sensor.”
Oil is cheap and while of course I would never recip saw the bad cats, smash the ceramic then weld them back and reinstall I can imagine others might.
Eco boosts have a oil consumption problem? Sounds more like 5.0 issue
I’m getting the same kinda code in my 2018 3.5 . Needing me a local mechanic in the Houston area
Could also try putting a bottle of Cataclean (Autozone $26 bucks) into the gas tank. Read directions first.
Have you used it and did it work?
@@737mechanic Yes I used it a couple weeks ago and it is kind of crazy how quickly the light went out and has stayed out since putting the bottle in my gas tank. Also noticed a pretty decent increase in throttle performance.
Thanks for the video. What size bit did you use to open up the hole in the non-fouler? Looking to do this project this weekend to address my P0430 code. Thanks!
I don't remember off the top of my head, I picked one out of my collection that was slightly bigger than the O2 sensor.
@@737mechanic I saw another video on this same trick, and they opened it up pretty good with a larger bit.
I saw in another video that they drilled out one defouler entirely with 1/2" bit then added a second undrilled defouler to the end with the option of adding stainless steel wool between them.
Hey man... Ive been trying to figure out if it's driver or passenger side. 30 is driver per previous answers. Thanks
Bank two I believe is the left side, or drivers side.
@@Powerstroke98 no bank 2 is passenger side
It will pass my inspection
put alcohal in the gas tank and run for several miles to clean the converter and never bye a converter word from the pros
Not only have I tried that but there are many videos on UA-cam that show it does nothing.
Lacquer Thinner works just enough to get monitors ready and pass annual inspection
@@TurnThemWheels I have tried it and it didnt work for me and there are youtube videos of people trying it and it didn't change anything.
@@737mechanic gotcha it worked well enough to get a 07 Tahoe P0430 to pass Texas inspection
What kind of alcohol? Methanol?
To confirm for P0420 and P0430, these are the two cats for passenger and driver side?
That is correct.
Is this addressing the underlying issue, or just keeping your enging light from coming on?
It reduces the sensitivity of the downstream o2 sensors so the engine light won't come on or won't come on as quickly. The underlying issue is the catalytic converters are losing their efficiency. The right way to fix it is to replace the catalytic converters. I just looked up the price of them now and they are about $300 per side or you can try this $5 fix and get down the road for a few more years.
@@737mechanic Yeah, I noticed there are a few brands on Amazon, in the $300.+ USD range.
Use Anti Seize grease on those - in case you want them off down the road
I have a 2019 expedition with the 3.5 EB. Am I only adding it to both bank2 sensors?
They only go in the downstream sensor so if you wanted to do both banks you would put 1 in each downstream sensor.
I put cataclean, also put lacquer thinner. I sprayed sea foam and still code. If u used spacers, would it matter if theres holes in the muffler after downstream sensor. Or does the muffler not suppose to have holes for the spacersto work..
?
It won't matter if the muffler has holes.
@737mechanic well, used Space r and kept resetting the code with I'm readiness and still getting p0420 and p0430..🤔 drove already with 3 tanks of gas and still keep popin on..also replaced all 02 sensors.. fkn thing
@@bigsal9259 At that point the cats are so far gone the only fix is going to be replacing them.
Have you actually done it and had time to check the viability or are we all gonna experiment this together
I did this on our Jeep Wrangler that the Engine light would come on about 3 days after resetting the light, after I installed these it stayed off 3 years until it came back on.
This Ford F-150 the light has not come back on yet and it has been a couple of years.
@737mechanic alright then - thanx
I have a Ford Expedition and I have had the code P0420 from 7 months ago, friend I changed the catalyst and the oxygen sensor and the engine check is still going on, my car is 2020, what can I do? Do I do what you did in the video? Where can I buy that piece of the video? Do I necessarily have to go to a turner to modify the piece? I don't know what to do anymore, I added some caralizer cleaner and it didn't work either.
clean catalyst I meant, cataclean and it didn't work
@@manuelbarrios8941 You can try the spacer and that will probably help. You may not need to drill it out but if the O2 doesn't screw into it you will have too. Make sure you get it on the correct bank. On a lot of ford engines bank 1 is on the passenger side and bank 2 is on the drivers side.
You can also get longer non-foulers that require no modifications, O'Reilly's carries them 2 for around $12 dollars, I installed them in my 2014 f150 a week ago and so far the check engine light hasn't come on, one thing I did notice is the miles per gallon average did go up, don't know if this is because the computer thinks new or what but as long as the light stays off it's good.
Once that 02 code goes off and it says permanent will this trick work?
Once you do this and you reset the code it should either keep it off or delay it from coming back on as soon as it did.
So this doesn't damage the engine in any way? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I'm not too mechanical of a guy.
No, it basically makes the o2 sensor less sensitive so it doesn't trip the engine light. Eventually, even this will stop working once the cats become even more inefficient.
@@737mechanic So the cats will eventually need replacing. They don't inspect emissions in my state, thankfully. I just wanted to get the light to go away and was hoping it wasn't harming anything. I haven't experienced any power loss at all. Maybe it's just the sensor going bad. I thought I would try the cat cleaner someone else suggested just for fun. Thanks for your help.
@@geemac7267 Let me know if the cat cleaner works, I have never had any confidence in stuff like that. If it works I will keep it in mind.
@@737mechanic It doesn't work. LOL. My light came back on as always. It was a $30 lesson I guess you could say. I'm going to try your trick next.
Was the the driver side?
Yes
Bank 2 is the driver side? And how did the check engine light came off?
Do you the battery?
@@PGuerrero1179 Bank 2 on this f-150 is the drivers side. The light will go off eventually after you drive it enough or you can clear the code by either disconnecting the battery or using a scan tool.
Thank you.
Where do you buy them and what are they called
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@@737mechanic These show that they are out of them...on the Canadian Amazon site they had them yesterday when I looked.
What size thread is the anti-fouler?
18x1.5
Nice trick at 120k it seems way to soon than normal.
I'm at 138 on my '16 and dealing with the P0430 code.
did it and don't work
@@makosharkcnc7730 did you put it in the upstream o2 sensor spots?
@@737mechanic i put it after the cats, after i did that i got (p2098 fuel trim system too lean bank 2) i tried a few diffent ways i eather got the p0420,p0430, with the non-fouler i got p2098
@@makosharkcnc7730 Interesting, I have never seen that before.
???
Anyone on the chat
Yea bud, I am here, what you got?
I do believe this man don't know what he talking about now both whether or not you move it 1 in or 2 in she'll still be reading the same amount of carbon CO2
What does carbon co2 have to do with anything? If you understand how a downstream o2 sensor works you would understand the theory behind doing this.