So many years I've been riding bikes with floating discs (rotors) and didn't even realise you had to maintain them. I'll be checking my bike tomorrow. Thanks for the tip!
Ghosth, thats a great tip, i do that to my bike about twice a year, but i NEVER use oil, no matter how little you use, the rotation force can still drag any residue out on to the braking face....if you must use something, then the company "Wurth" make a dry PTFE lubricant that will stay where it is put.... good video mate, thanks for posting.
Yes a really good video, as a motorcycle mechanic I learned something watching it, all I would suggest is to remove both callipers before doing this so you don’t drags any WD40 through your pads as you do it .Follow the video completely then use Brake cleaner a fresh cloth and compressed air to give the discs a final clean and then refit the callipers.(a 5 minute job to remove and refit them)
@rcCrazyguy Thanks for your kind words brother.your video reminded me to do mine last night. Aagain i must say, you really dont need to use any lube on the bobbins mate, the heat from the friction will dry it away anyway and it will be gone before it does any good, they must stricktly be installed bone dry with no oil what so ever. Your cleaning regime is perfect, and i reckon less than 1% of bikers bothers to do it, just keeping them free from crusty powder and salt is all you need to do mate..
This worked for me as well. Saved me 600 for a set of rotors. Pass side rotor was decent. drivers side was seized. This caused shaking and pulsing on hard pull of the lever. The cleaning was good. I used chain lube for oiling. I can turn the buttons by hand now. Replaced the pads and is just like new
Good advice on the cleaning. But to anybody watching this, for the love of god, do not oil your brake rotor buttons. as soon as that thing gets spinning, all of the oil is going to come out, go straight onto the rotor and your pads.
Great video I was just wondering why my front brakes were behaving like...exactly as you had mentioned in your video. I am doing the cleaning first thing tomorrow morning Thanks
🤔 hmmmm I wonder is that why my front brake squeals when when I’m coming to a stop ? Will try that on my bike thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 next video we need some more lights 😂🤣
Nice tip, I will do this on my KTM Brembos because the brakes are pulsing when I dont apply full force. I would cover the tyres with a towel though as brake cleaner can destroy them.
What if the buttons are so snugly fitted they will not move at all like on the zx6r f3 for instance? I don't think they are seized it's just that the spring is so strong that the buttons won't move?
could you not find a shorter bolt?? and I would NEVER use any kind of oil product to lube the bobbins. Leave then dry and repeat the process when necessary. Oil on the bobbins will very quickly be flung out by the rotation of the disc and end up all over your brake discs and pads.
I never knew this can be done. I am glad I saw this. However, I would never ever take any chances using any type of oil on the bobbins. Too risky !!!! One drop runs off and we can be in trouble.
Great vid and very handy tip. However, I tried it and the buttons are still siezed up solid. How much preasure should you use to try and free up the buttons.
Here's another "tip" for anyone reading.............ANOTHER lubricant that can be used instead of a lubricating "oil"...........is a rc (remote-control) gear-lubricant!! It's made by Finish-Line and uses something called "Krytox" which is made by Dupont.It sprays on as a liquid but after only a few seconds,it hardens to a solid that has great lubricating qualities.So if your worried about an "oil" running all over the rotor,I'd use this stuff!!
Probably already mentioned here (too time-poor to check) but I'd go for a dry (bicycle) lube like Tri-flow. They usually have a tube applicator so you can place just one drop accurately. I don't know if that's what you mean by 'dry' Crazy Guy - not stepping on your toes - cause I also thought about powder lube as well, but that would diabolical if it got between your disc and pads.
I have an 06 Suzuki boulevard c90t. I just had the rear pads replaced by a dealer. When I got it back it was making this nasty metal on metal sound whenever I used it. I brought it back and the guy says that my rear rotor is bad and needs to be replaced. He grabbed it and wiggled it and it made the same metal on metal sound. Is there anyway that I can save this rotor without replacing it? thanks, good video.
I have the opposite problem where my right hand rotor bobbins are loose and I can actually move them from side to side. The floating disc is not moving forwards and backwards so thats good. How much free play should there be and is it dangerous. I have a spongy brake lever which needs pumping before it works properly. Thought it was master cylinder but had that checked out and its fine with no loss of fluid or leaks and new brake fluid. Left hand disc stiff so I'll clean as in the video. HELP. ANY ADVICE. Can I buy new bobbin kit or new spacer washers. Thanks.
I have a 2012 hayabusa with stock rotars , my disk rattles whenever I hit the front brakes ..... The rivets are very loose. Is there any way I can fix them !!
Iron man did you buy it like that? Could be a possibility that your stock rotors have been modified to be full floating? Or maybe yours are just have gotten bad from all the weight from the busa and the bobbins have got worn out. Might be worth having it checked and if there worn you need to replace before it becomes a big problem.
Great tip on cleaning these buttons but NO OIL should be used after the cleaning, these rotors are assembled dry and should stay dry. Oil does what? it collects dust. I cant help but think that the oil accelerates the buttons getting stuck by attracting and collecting the dust.
I dont understand why you dont oil em up when you have the bolt there already? It takes app 5 sec for the brake cleaner to dry up and your ready to go. This method you use is kinda overkill cause it takes so much more time. I got this ceramic lubricant i use that is maybe not so penetrating, but is heatresistant wich makes it stick there much longer. A ordinary penetrating oil is just to loosen bolts in my book. But again a very good video. PS I love brakecleaner too, hehe. DS
im thinking of doing something like this on my brembo ktm setup. ive tried brake cleaner and bolt etc on the bobbins but they are still v stiff. what about taking them off and washing with soap and water. any good ? uk winters destroy motorbikes.
hooYEAHHHH you save me 200+$$ on my triumph !!! IVe used 10/32 bolt with nut and washer + impact driver + long 3/8 socket + wd40 then I've clean it all really well with brake cleaner since I did a fucking mess of oil around the disk Now the disc is really ''loose'' and work like it should
So many years I've been riding bikes with floating discs (rotors) and didn't even realise you had to maintain them. I'll be checking my bike tomorrow.
Thanks for the tip!
Ghosth, thats a great tip, i do that to my bike about twice a year, but i NEVER use oil, no matter how little you use, the rotation force can still drag any residue out on to the braking face....if you must use something, then the company "Wurth" make a dry PTFE lubricant that will stay where it is put.... good video mate, thanks for posting.
Yes a really good video, as a motorcycle mechanic I learned something watching it, all I would suggest is to remove both callipers before doing this so you don’t drags any WD40 through your pads as you do it .Follow the video completely then use Brake cleaner a fresh cloth and compressed air to give the discs a final clean and then refit the callipers.(a 5 minute job to remove and refit them)
well said, good hint! 👍✌
@rcCrazyguy Thanks for your kind words brother.your video reminded me to do mine last night. Aagain i must say, you really dont need to use any lube on the bobbins mate, the heat from the friction will dry it away anyway and it will be gone before it does any good, they must stricktly be installed bone dry with no oil what so ever. Your cleaning regime is perfect, and i reckon less than 1% of bikers bothers to do it, just keeping them free from crusty powder and salt is all you need to do mate..
This worked for me as well. Saved me 600 for a set of rotors. Pass side rotor was decent. drivers side was seized. This caused shaking and pulsing on hard pull of the lever. The cleaning was good. I used chain lube for oiling. I can turn the buttons by hand now. Replaced the pads and is just like new
Good advice on the cleaning. But to anybody watching this, for the love of god, do not oil your brake rotor buttons. as soon as that thing gets spinning, all of the oil is going to come out, go straight onto the rotor and your pads.
Tryed and it solved the problem...great info sharing,saved me a couple hundred bucks...you are the best
Instead of bolts and nuts you can use a tap/screw extractor. It'll grab the inside of the bobbins. Much faster.
Thanks for this.... hopefully this will solve my issue - Triumph dealer wanted to charge me £250 for new discs due to being "warped".
Great video
I was just wondering why my front brakes were behaving like...exactly as you had mentioned in your video.
I am doing the cleaning first thing tomorrow morning
Thanks
im getting a pulsing in my brakes, im going to give this a try, Thanks!
Did it worked?
🤔 hmmmm I wonder is that why my front brake squeals when when I’m coming to a stop ? Will try that on my bike thanks 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 next video we need some more lights 😂🤣
Nice tip, I will do this on my KTM Brembos because the brakes are pulsing when I dont apply full force. I would cover the tyres with a towel though as brake cleaner can destroy them.
brake cleaner destroy tire? not in my case
What if the buttons are so snugly fitted they will not move at all like on the zx6r f3 for instance? I don't think they are seized it's just that the spring is so strong that the buttons won't move?
could you not find a shorter bolt?? and I would NEVER use any kind of oil product to lube the bobbins. Leave then dry and repeat the process when necessary. Oil on the bobbins will very quickly be flung out by the rotation of the disc and end up all over your brake discs and pads.
I never knew this can be done. I am glad I saw this. However, I would never ever take any chances using any type of oil on the bobbins. Too risky !!!! One drop runs off and we can be in trouble.
Great vid and very handy tip. However, I tried it and the buttons are still siezed up solid. How much preasure should you use to try and free up the buttons.
just jam a cone shaped piece of wood in there , wiggle back and fourth with a spray of cleaner, and whole job, both sides about 5 min
Here's another "tip" for anyone reading.............ANOTHER lubricant that can be used instead of a lubricating "oil"...........is a rc (remote-control) gear-lubricant!! It's made by Finish-Line and uses something called "Krytox" which is made by Dupont.It sprays on as a liquid but after only a few seconds,it hardens to a solid that has great lubricating qualities.So if your worried about an "oil" running all over the rotor,I'd use this stuff!!
Probably already mentioned here (too time-poor to check) but I'd go for a dry (bicycle) lube like Tri-flow. They usually have a tube applicator so you can place just one drop accurately. I don't know if that's what you mean by 'dry' Crazy Guy - not stepping on your toes - cause I also thought about powder lube as well, but that would diabolical if it got between your disc and pads.
I have an 06 Suzuki boulevard c90t. I just had the rear pads replaced by a dealer. When I got it back it was making this nasty metal on metal sound whenever I used it. I brought it back and the guy says that my rear rotor is bad and needs to be replaced. He grabbed it and wiggled it and it made the same metal on metal sound. Is there anyway that I can save this rotor without replacing it? thanks, good video.
I have the opposite problem where my right hand rotor bobbins are loose and I can actually move them from side to side. The floating disc is not moving forwards and backwards so thats good. How much free play should there be and is it dangerous. I have a spongy brake lever which needs pumping before it works properly. Thought it was master cylinder but had that checked out and its fine with no loss of fluid or leaks and new brake fluid. Left hand disc stiff so I'll clean as in the video.
HELP. ANY ADVICE. Can I buy new bobbin kit or new spacer washers. Thanks.
Only thing id use to lube the bobbins is chain wax. Its dry and wont go onto the disc
I have a 2012 hayabusa with stock rotars , my disk rattles whenever I hit the front brakes ..... The rivets are very loose. Is there any way I can fix them !!
Iron man did you buy it like that? Could be a possibility that your stock rotors have been modified to be full floating? Or maybe yours are just have gotten bad from all the weight from the busa and the bobbins have got worn out. Might be worth having it checked and if there worn you need to replace before it becomes a big problem.
any suggestions how to turn bobbins without center hole that are very tight, 90ies Brembos on Ducs? Or just douse in breakcleaner until turnable?
Instead of penetrating oil I would use a dry Teflon Spray such as DuPont chain saver
i tried cleaning the buttons but still they wont move with fingers only with screw and wrench. my bike is kawasaki z750
Great tip on cleaning these buttons but NO OIL should be used after the cleaning, these rotors are assembled dry and should stay dry. Oil does what? it collects dust. I cant help but think that the oil accelerates the buttons getting stuck by attracting and collecting the dust.
im gonna try it tomorow,got new pads and brakes making weird noises now
I dont understand why you dont oil em up when you have the bolt there already?
It takes app 5 sec for the brake cleaner to dry up and your ready to go.
This method you use is kinda overkill cause it takes so much more time.
I got this ceramic lubricant i use that is maybe not so penetrating, but is heatresistant wich makes it stick there much longer.
A ordinary penetrating oil is just to loosen bolts in my book.
But again a very good video.
PS I love brakecleaner too, hehe. DS
im thinking of doing something like this on my brembo ktm setup. ive tried brake cleaner and bolt etc on the bobbins but they are still v stiff. what about taking them off and washing with soap and water. any good ? uk winters destroy motorbikes.
Thanks bro great explanation cheers buddy
This is when the rotors are loose?
Is it necessary to replace the entire disc or only the rotors? Pardon my ignorance
this is when rotor start to wobble (stuck in the small ring )you need them to be free
hooYEAHHHH you save me 200+$$ on my triumph !!!
IVe used 10/32 bolt with nut and washer + impact driver + long 3/8 socket + wd40
then I've clean it all really well with brake cleaner since I did a fucking mess of oil around the disk
Now the disc is really ''loose'' and work like it should
Grat piece of info!!!
fantasatic video ,helped me alot thanks
Fixed my pulsing lever.best if use brake cleaner.
I believe they are "bobbins", not "buttons".
Charles McMillion depends on which country you are from. Europe tends to call them bobbins while US it's typical to call them buttons.
EXCELLENT!!!
Dude, find someone to hold the camera.
Gracias men gracias🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕🙏💕
Muito bom
that doesnt even make sense.