@hassleoffa Yes, Registering off the table slot will work just as well. I included some links to the bits I purchased in the description below. Shop around, the carbide bits will do the best job.
Great idea; however, my opinion is that over time as you tighten the knob over and over the bolt head will start to indent into the inside of the T-track. Granted by that time you would probably have to replace the fence. For a reduced cost T-track, it's a brilliant idea!
@GunnerAl9 Thanks! I use this fence a lot with multiple attachments. You'd be surprised how tough 3/4" birch plywood can be. It locks down easily without a lot of force. You can use rubber washers on the inside if you need a better grip in your track.
A couple weeks ago I realized the T-tracks are expensive. Especially if I am planning to build few T-Track jigs. So I ordered a T-Track router bit. It also works great with a 1/4" Dovetail Bit. I think the dovetail cut is stronger than the t-track. But that is just my opinion.
@Run Hard T-tracks are pricey - they can add up fast. I prefer T-tracks to using a dovetail bit because it works better with the hardware and clamps I use.
I noticed you did not install a guard block behind the fence where the blade cuts through? Is one required or would it not work because of the 45 degrees cuts? Also, could this cross cut fence replace my cross cut sled? Thanks!
Good point John! In fact this Sunday's video will be about the new version of this fence and it actually includes a blade guard at the back. I never had issues with this old one but the new one is a bit safer. Also, you'll see a better method for cutting the T-tracks. I had a cross cut sled, but honestly, I hardly ever used it, because that is what miter saws are for. I personally, prefer using a fence.
Have you just started using these as of this video or have you used them in the past? I ask because I’m curious as to the durability of the track. Here are my thoughts.... My guess is the regular bolt t-tracks you have chosen are probably better than using the t-track router bits for actual t-track screws/toilet bolt screws. I say that because an industry standard t-bolt screw’s head is very thin. My guess is that it would dig into the wood and create issues inside the track. My question to you is what is your experience or thought on a regular bolt/screw like you’re using? Is it better in a routed out wood t-track because of the extra metal/meat on a regular bolt/screw. Here’s a suppose situation. Let’s say you do a bunch of work with a stop block or jig always being used at the same position. But let’s say you now have a need to use the stop block at 1/8th or even 1/16th of where that stop block has been used repeatedly. Would the screw head have created a groove inside the t-track that would not allow you to be within a very close proximity to that position because it would automatically jump into the groove that was created from the repeated use? Btw, I love your videos. You’re becoming one of my favorites to watch on UA-cam. Keep up the great work!
Thanks @Victor Rodrigues! I started using the T-track bits not too long ago so I would have the freedom to make my own whenever I needed one. Of course using a metal T-track will always be best, especially for a jig that is getting heavy usage. That said, cutting a track into 3/4" plywood is incredibly durable. Plywood cores are pretty tough. The most important thing is that your bolt head has flat shoulders to stay seated in the T-track. There is enough friction using the star knobs to keep it in place without over-tightening. If you need a better grip, add a rubberized washer between the knob and the surface of the plywood. If you over-tighten, of course you can create a small indent in the track but the same thing will happen if you're using an aluminum T-track. Don't over-clamp, and you'll be fine.
Eric Sorensen. Thanks for the reply. One major advantage to the diy t-track is that you can cut through it. I believe I saw that in your video. I’m new to this, but have always had a desire to jump in. Sometimes I over think things. Lol
Try and get T track in Australia, no chance. It’s a specialty item usually from the States and very expensive. I’ve tried cutting my own from square aluminium tubing but that’s been a disaster to date.
@Mike B. I used some left over laminate flooring. The type I used can be cut with conventional saw blades - always check the manufacturers spec. You can also just use plywood or a thicker melamine to do the same thing. You could also use aluminum plate, which can be cut on conventional saws as well.
Great idea Eric. Question: I have the exact same tablesaw that you have and am having a terrible time with saw dust flying all over the place. I have it hooked up to a shop vac, but my guess is that 50% of the saw dust ends up on the floor. What have you done to alleviate that problem (if you have at all)? Or maybe you don't have that problem with your saw?
Thanks @Ken Marissael I have made a few modifications to the table saw. The biggest reduction in dust came when I downgraded to a 7 1/4" blade. If you're getting a lot of dust coming up from the saw you might want to unplug it, take the throat plate off, raise the blade all the way up and clean out the dust in the dust chamber with a long ruler or stick. Chances are, the sawdust has accumulated down there an is clogging the vacuum port at the back.
The riving knife doesn't allow for my cross cut sled. Also, I use a 7 1/4" blade, so the RK doesn't work in that set up. I generally leave it off unless I'm ripping a board longer than 3 feet, then I swap for my factory blade and RK.
Excellent fence. I'd suggest adding a chamfer to the front bottom of fence and top & bottom of the stop block to prevent dust build up.
Great jig ! Thank’s for sharing Eric !
I also use the speed square trick but I do it off the table slot on the other side of the one I'm using. Cool bit. Definitely going to get one.
@hassleoffa Yes, Registering off the table slot will work just as well. I included some links to the bits I purchased in the description below. Shop around, the carbide bits will do the best job.
good video thank you
Thanks a lot. Down here it's impossible to get the metal ones so you helped as a lot.
Thanks Marcelo Cosi ! I'm glad I could help. Cheers 🙂
Great idea; however, my opinion is that over time as you tighten the knob over and over the bolt head will start to indent into the inside of the T-track. Granted by that time you would probably have to replace the fence. For a reduced cost T-track, it's a brilliant idea!
@GunnerAl9 Thanks! I use this fence a lot with multiple attachments. You'd be surprised how tough 3/4" birch plywood can be.
It locks down easily without a lot of force. You can use rubber washers on the inside if you need a better grip in your track.
Friggen awesome my friend!!!
Thank you for sharing. Excellent idea.
Thanks Eric
@Bob Dunn Cheers 🙂
Metal t tracks is about 1200mm on Ebay for $12 shipped, 1000mm is around $9.50 shipped. I really like the idea of this.. I need one now...
Great video! Your voice sounds like John Malkovich.
I was just thinking the same thing, he kind of has the look too.....
Very nice indeed, who needs a cross cut sled when you can have that on your table saw.
Barry (ENG)
Thanks @Barry Roberts! Loads of possibilities! Cheers! 🙂
All the cool toys a boy should have...
Thanks You video, great work 👍👍👍
Muito boa a indicação, ganhou um like e mais um inscrito.
well done
Gracias algún día lo are
Eric , thank you for the tutorial 😊you saved us lots of money I buying one 😊. Compliments of the season Sir.
@Mahendra Tiwari Thanks! And happy holidays to you as well 🙂
A couple weeks ago I realized the T-tracks are expensive. Especially if I am planning to build few T-Track jigs. So I ordered a T-Track router bit. It also works great with a 1/4" Dovetail Bit. I think the dovetail cut is stronger than the t-track.
But that is just my opinion.
@Run Hard T-tracks are pricey - they can add up fast. I prefer T-tracks to using a dovetail bit because it works better with the hardware and clamps I use.
I noticed you did not install a guard block behind the fence where the blade cuts through? Is one required or would it not work because of the 45 degrees cuts? Also, could this cross cut fence replace my cross cut sled? Thanks!
Good point John! In fact this Sunday's video will be about the new version of this fence and it actually includes a blade guard at the back. I never had issues with this old one but the new one is a bit safer. Also, you'll see a better method for cutting the T-tracks. I had a cross cut sled, but honestly, I hardly ever used it, because that is what miter saws are for. I personally, prefer using a fence.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thank you Eric....look forward to your next video!
what size/style router bit did you use. there are many choices online, please?
3/8" carbide T-slot cutter bit, with a 1/4" Shank. I also have the exact same with a 1/2" shank, which I now use more.
Thanks mr eric
Have you just started using these as of this video or have you used them in the past? I ask because I’m curious as to the durability of the track. Here are my thoughts....
My guess is the regular bolt t-tracks you have chosen are probably better than using the t-track router bits for actual t-track screws/toilet bolt screws. I say that because an industry standard t-bolt screw’s head is very thin. My guess is that it would dig into the wood and create issues inside the track.
My question to you is what is your experience or thought on a regular bolt/screw like you’re using? Is it better in a routed out wood t-track because of the extra metal/meat on a regular bolt/screw.
Here’s a suppose situation. Let’s say you do a bunch of work with a stop block or jig always being used at the same position. But let’s say you now have a need to use the stop block at 1/8th or even 1/16th of where that stop block has been used repeatedly. Would the screw head have created a groove inside the t-track that would not allow you to be within a very close proximity to that position because it would automatically jump into the groove that was created from the repeated use?
Btw, I love your videos. You’re becoming one of my favorites to watch on UA-cam. Keep up the great work!
Thanks @Victor Rodrigues! I started using the T-track bits not too long ago so I would have the freedom to make my own whenever I needed one. Of course using a metal T-track will always be best, especially for a jig that is getting heavy usage. That said, cutting a track into 3/4" plywood is incredibly durable. Plywood cores are pretty tough. The most important thing is that your bolt head has flat shoulders to stay seated in the T-track. There is enough friction using the star knobs to keep it in place without over-tightening. If you need a better grip, add a rubberized washer between the knob and the surface of the plywood. If you over-tighten, of course you can create a small indent in the track but the same thing will happen if you're using an aluminum T-track. Don't over-clamp, and you'll be fine.
Eric Sorensen. Thanks for the reply. One major advantage to the diy t-track is that you can cut through it. I believe I saw that in your video. I’m new to this, but have always had a desire to jump in. Sometimes I over think things. Lol
Try and get T track in Australia, no chance. It’s a specialty item usually from the States and very expensive. I’ve tried cutting my own from square aluminium tubing but that’s been a disaster to date.
www.timbecon.com.au/site-shop-accessories/t-track-mitre-track?gclid=CjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-06I2J3PCU3xPzUHMItvsQ9bF-8ZKpEdf9W7BmYEWj8niWDF4uJcHBoCjHEQAvD_BwE
I get all my T tracks from Timbecon. Reasonably priced too!
Question for you. In this vid what material did you use to make the zero clearance insert on your rigid table saw? Thanks
@Mike B. I used some left over laminate flooring. The type I used can be cut with conventional saw blades - always check the manufacturers spec. You can also just use plywood or a thicker melamine to do the same thing. You could also use aluminum plate, which can be cut on conventional saws as well.
Great idea Eric. Question: I have the exact same tablesaw that you have and am having a terrible time with saw dust flying all over the place. I have it hooked up to a shop vac, but my guess is that 50% of the saw dust ends up on the floor. What have you done to alleviate that problem (if you have at all)? Or maybe you don't have that problem with your saw?
Thanks @Ken Marissael I have made a few modifications to the table saw. The biggest reduction in dust came when I downgraded to a 7 1/4" blade. If you're getting a lot of dust coming up from the saw you might want to unplug it, take the throat plate off, raise the blade all the way up and clean out the dust in the dust chamber with a long ruler or stick. Chances are, the sawdust has accumulated down there an is clogging the vacuum port at the back.
@@EricSorensenCanada Thanks, I'll give that a try.
Looks like no riving knife on your table saw, this just to demo for the video, or do you generally not use it?
The riving knife doesn't allow for my cross cut sled. Also, I use a 7 1/4" blade, so the RK doesn't work in that set up. I generally leave it off unless I'm ripping a board longer than 3 feet, then I swap for my factory blade and RK.
Hello Eric. What´s the brand/model of your miter gauge ?
@aroldo ribeiro Ridgid Model # R4513
very cool
and i am the 69 like or i like the 69...