It's sure fun and entertaining watching someone who know's what they're doing do the things they do! Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!! Happy Spring!!
Thanks for the idea about the pneumatic long ram. I bought one from Harbor Freight years ago and it's been sitting unopened in my garage forever with the compressor.
Not sure u have seen what I'm talking about but 15 yrs ago there were air over hydraulic wood splitters .I had one. These little wood splitters had springs to return the ram..just a thought to look one up and get an idea..I love your video..Wishing I was still an operating machinist.Thanks..
Very interesting, you do nice work. Just a bit of trivia, back in the 50s Gillette bought miles and miles of railroad track to make razor blades from. If you recall the old double edge blades they marketed as blue blades that was them, and they had the market cornered for a long time because of that.
Wau it looks so easy when you are doing this stuff and besides i have a lathe , mill and also shaper but wouldn't be able to do so ...I think ...but its a great pleasure watching your videos ..
Hey thanks for the video I requested its great to see you used some of my parts suggestions and used your simple but ingenious design approach can't wait to see the upgraded version, can you purchase a commercial push riffling button and show us how it works on this press and try to machine a 6 sided button or try to connect two three sided button and offset them on a keyway by 90 degrees
I'd like to see an upgrade that allows you to equally space your rifling, that could then provide full rifling coverage and with your new press could be used to produce a long barrel. Then we could see that test-fired.
I know this is an old comment, but I think it'd be relatively easy to simply make equally spaced radial marks on the subject being rifled, which would be easy to then line the button up with.
I have seen other videos on home rifling and it seems that the idea of pushing the cutter through is a common one. I made a simple rifling machine that pulls a rod with the cutter on its end, using a 4 ton hand crank winch. You don't have to worry about deforming the mandrel.
Your's is the correct method to avoid rod deflections. Do you perform this before turning the blank to the desired barrel profile. How do you straighten the barrel or do you?
Next instalment: The Idahoan builds a nuclear reactor from a washing machine and two potatoes! I'm convinced this man can build anything from anything!
Such things could be done with a leftover hardened drill bit cut with a file and blade at the right angle. Hardened and serrated with a hammer. In the 90s
A suggestion; instead of new air compressor just get a portable air tank & have it in line. You can increase your air storage & at the same time have a portable tank in case you need one.
thanks for your videos!! It is been a while since I first started to watch your movies!! In this country where I'm living I'd get jail only for the idea of even thinking of making any kind of firearm! Now I'd love to know how to rifle a brass or an aluminium barrel for an airsoft rifle. At least I'd be free of some so-called tech, and so on...
There’s one more convenient add on you can install, an indexing tool for the button so you can repeatedly Rifle the same way every time and skip manual insertion.
I am wanting to make a yard Cannon with approximately 2 inch bore. Wondering if they make a button rifling bits in to inch? Just laughing! Very nice job. Great to see Ingenuity at work
The amount of force you'd need would be pretty scary, and if it's a muzzle loader you'd have a tough time getting the button out of the breech. You'd be better off cutting the grooves instead, with something like a shaper that can rotate the cutting tool.
Thanks for posting this. You did a great job with the video! Nice machine shop but no air tools for fastening bolts? Was kind of funny watching you use a breaker bar when you have tens of thousands of $$$ in equipment there. I was wondering why did you decided to rifle the barrel 3 times, or even use just lands/groves? I thought you weren't supposed to re-rifle a barrel due to the elasticity of steel and the stresses induced by rifling. Did you stress relieve & lap the barrel afterwards? How about cutting a chamber & showing "proof of concept" by firing the barrel? Can you put an 11 degree crown on the barrel? This was really interesting!
Man, your videos are great. I really like the production quality, and the ideas. Also, I am massively, I mean astronomically envious of your shop. I do have a question, and I recognize that it's rude and ultimately none of my business. But, damn dude, how do you finance all this stuff. I'm not exactly rich, but I am more well off than the average American. I have nowhere near the disposable resources to pull all this off. Kudos to you. You are living my dream.
Thanks! As to how I afford my equipment, here are some rough numbers to put it in perspective: The average upper-middle-class home in eastern Idaho costs about $200k. Instead of buying a spacious home for $200k, I bought a single-wide manufactured home for about $50k and built my shop building for a little less than $50k. The land that I built on cost about $30k, and so even after spending another $15k on machine tools, I've still spent less than the price of a typical home. Then there is the interest effect. If a person buys a $200k home on a 30-year mortgage with a minimal amount down, then because of the interest on the loan, he will probably end up paying $400k or more by the time he pays it off. Before I bought my house, I lived in a run-down $200/mo apartment for several years. Then, between the money I had saved up while living in the apartment and some inheritance money that I had from my grandparents, I was able to do most of my construction without borrowing money, and what I did have to borrow I paid off within a year, so I spent almost nothing on interest. The same principle applies to things like car payments. I've never spent more than $3k on a vehicle and always paid cash so by driving old "clunkers" (that serve me reasonably well, nonetheless) I've been able to save money both up front and by avoiding interest payments. Finding ways to avoid borrowing money (and hence avoid paying interest) has been an important element of my financial strategy.
TheIdahoanShow Thank you for the reply. I really appreciate you taking the time to make such a meaningful post in response to my question. It's interesting. I lived a very, very similar life in my youth. I saved almost every dime I ever earned. Lived in a cheap apartment. I honestly think the difference might be where we live. I'm on the east coast. How telling. Anyway, I do really enjoy your videos. The gunsite peak expedition is among my favorites. Thanks for taking the time to make them and share them with us.
Thats a very very good strategy... I have also a mill, lathe and so on and all bought new the rest of my hobby shop is under 30.000USD and not a single penny i got from a bank.. I dont want something from them and they dont get something from me...i don't finance this ill system... I dont need a brandnew car if it looses more than the costs of a good shop every few years.. Did it tried it.. Never again...
Great job! Fantastic! Please let me make some suggestions with out offense. I think a hydraulic pump would be better than compressed air. All the heavy weight presses use hydraulic systems. A one pass button would be better with a flute to lead it in so no hammering. Can you cut a star pattern button?
Thanks! Yes, a system with a dedicated hydraulic pump would be nicer than one like this with a manual hydraulic jack and the air-hydraulic option. However, it would also have increased the cost and complexity of the project quite a bit, which is why I went with the jack in this case. Lately, I have been experimenting with making 6-fluted buttons with a star-like profile, which can rifle a barrel completely in a single pass. Because of the higher fraction of surface engagement, they are a bit more difficult to drive than the "triangular" buttons I started with, but they seem to work fairly well none the less.
If you have the means it might be more practical to try hydraulics, that way you don't have to wait for the compressor to keep up and you can retract it by just redirecting the flow. You have a lathe, you could make yourself a set of makeshift cylinders, fittings and lines out of steel pipe. In fact if you made some directional flow valves (which you can do too) you wouldn't even need to buy anything off the shelf. And it would probably cost less than 50 bucks in material. If you look for "diy hydraulics" there's a guy crushing coke cans with nothing but cheap plastic syringes. When you have a lathe and a milling machine the sky is the limit. Hope I can get there some day.
I thought of using a taper button cuz l prefer like half the barrel to be rifled, so will it work well if l push the button back out or will it be better to pull out?
My knowledge of barrels is rather on the user side but seeing this, does the bullet have a diameter of the driving button or the smooth part of the barrel? Because I'd say it matters. Does the bullet rotate then at all? What is the percentage of those two layers? And this - does the button push material to the sides and into the center? I would drill that sonofabitch once again or had run a round button through it. I'd probably spend some time in theory books before my first shot. It looks great and simple but I dunno man.
I plan to customize a PCP compressed air rifle, to fire a 762mm (.30) caliber projectile, but I still don't know the diameter of the button goover I have to buy to make the internal flute, and I don't even know which tube ID I should have. buy (which internal measure of pipe should I buy), I'm grateful if you can help me with information
I thought of rifling my new barrel like a half way the barrel by using a taper button so is it possible if l push the button backward after it reach half the barrel? If that is ok, then can l redo the same process more then once?
I'm curious what your cutting oil is? The Mobil brand I use is much darker color, and very expensive. It does generate some shop mess, but you don't worry about corrosion like water soluble (and can leave the vise on the mill table). Over time, it does seem to evaporate.
I started out using a 50/50 mixture of way oil and WD-40. That was cheaper than specially formulated cutting fluid and I could be sure it wouldn't rust or damage the machine, even if I let it sit for a while. The only problem was that the WD-40 had such a low smoke point that it generated a lot of smoke on heavy cuts. Lately I've been running canola oil as a cutting fluid. It works as well or better than the mixture I was using before, doesn't smoke much, and only costs about $8 per gallon.
Hey brother nothing wrong with the button guide or equipment that she used you just used cheap metal for your barrel I've seen it before change the metal that you use for your barrel better results other than that it looks great in the equipment looks great job 👌
I remember your first one that you pressed and did a rifling this one is really a lot neater and really I thought the first one was very nice but this one is just wow there is a difference always a great show and I always learn something with you by the way can I ask you a question how big is your air compressor?
I JUST SAW LISTINGS ON E-BAY FOR A HYDROLIC PRESS AND RIFLING BUTTONS!! I THOUGH YOU WOULD BE INTERESTED TO SEE THEM. THE BUTTONS ARE LISTED AS: Rifling Buttons Super Hard Alloy Material Special Reamer Make a Rifled Barrel THE HYDRAULIC PRESS IS LISTED AS: Portable Barrel Rifling Machine for Button Rifling Process Push Chamber Reamer I THINK YOUR PRESS IS BETTER. HIS IS A GOOD IDEA THOUGH. HIS BUTTONS LOOK NICE. I JUST THOUGHT OF THIS ON THE PUSH RODS WOULD A V SHAPE ON THE END BE HELPFUL?
I'm looking to make a barrel or 6 out of either 316 stainless or chromoly round bar stock. The stainless for pistol barrels and chome for rifle barrels. Or would you suggest a different material? I'm asking as I'm new to this. Any help from yourself or any viewers would be appreciated. Thanks.
316 is too soft. You'd need to use a hard enable ss like 17-4ph. Not sure if that would have the required toughness but itll definitely be better suited than 316
Well, to pull the button through the barrel I would need some kind of mechanical connection between the button and a pulling rod. That connection becomes a stress concentration point, and also adds significant mechanical complexity to either the button, the drive rod, or both. Also, brittle tool steels, such as I typically make buttons out of, have excellent compressive strength, but poor tensile strength, so designing the connection such that the button wouldn't just break off would be challenging. Finally, in practice, it is much easier to apply a compressive force with a hydraulic jack than it is to apply a tensile one. Thus, while I'm sure that a tensile-type button rifling apparatus could be built, I think the overall system would end up being much more complex than what I built here.
rats arsed .. and he's doing a great job ...i am also new to metall work bought my lathe,mill and shaper 2 years ago but I have learned that many ways can lead to Rome and if it works the builder is right and he did proof that ... probably not the only way to success but it's his way he shares with us and that's why I have great respect for his good work.
The guide tube is longer than the hydraulic ram travel, because it also has to accommodate the bushings and springs. I have about 24 inches of travel, but then each bushing is about an inch long, and the compressed length of each spring is about an inch, and there are 12 sets of springs and bushings, so the collapsed length of the support column is also 24 inches, and so the guide tube needs to be about 48 inches long, or enough to accommodate both the collapsed length and the travel.
I think the longest barrel I've done so far was about 48 inches. Typical accuracy with the muzzleloaders I've built is about 10 MOA, although it depends on the load.
Quick question: Is it possible to rifle a barrel using hammer?Of course rifling press makes it even and better,but I heard that if you have too much energy and time you can try to do it with hammer :D
Hi .can you show khow to mill 1911 barel locking system .insaid slide .excuse my english please .i know khow to do this on barel ,with lathe .but dont understand khow to do this insaide the slide.
Well, it's been a while since I made this video, but if I recall correctly, I probably did most of the machining with a 3/4-inch carbide end mill at about 1000 rpm.
You should've got a hydraulic pump with a two-way hydraulic piston it would save your time and it would be paid in a matter of no time that if you are making gun barrels all the time
I think this is about the closest thing to polygonal rifling that can readily be produced by the button rifling process: ua-cam.com/video/9TKpea_fVV4/v-deo.html
An engineer who actually knows how machining processes work! Wish there were more like you
1:31 UNBELIEVEABLE !! that you have all your fingers right now !!
That is a darn good rifling press, heavy duty, won't Flex or bend, and I like the idea of the springs in the bushings in the tube. Thanks for sharing.
It's nice to see somebody on UA-cam making something using the correct machines & in the proper way. Good job!
It's sure fun and entertaining watching someone who know's what they're doing do the things they do! Thanks for taking the time to share this with us!! Happy Spring!!
A very ;nice addition to your builds. Thanks for posting.
Wow that is some really great machine and lathe work. That definitely is a well made solid rifling press alright. Thanks for sharing your work.
Great setup.
Looking forward to seeing it in future videos.
Thank you for sharing
Thanks for the idea about the pneumatic long ram. I bought one from Harbor Freight years ago and it's been sitting unopened in my garage forever with the compressor.
Use the hydraulics from an electric log splitter to power your ram. Love your work!
Brilliant. You will be manufacturing an arsenal in no time lol.
Very ingenious, but I see why Buttons are often pulled rather than pushed. Good video!
You should see the barrels on Seecamp handguns!!! Worst ever!
Oh I love these videos, intact it was your first rifling video that made me subscribe to your channel.
I was impressed when ya welded the end cap onto the thin threaded piece and it went right on.
Nice craftsmanship. Keep up the good work.
Hey I know I'm late but this is a great build and giving me all kinds of ideas, thanks for posting it man
Rotating the barrel before each stroke and having a xed position for the button would allow for precision in rifling spacing.
Not sure u have seen what I'm talking about but 15 yrs ago there were air over hydraulic wood splitters .I had one. These little wood splitters had springs to return the ram..just a thought to look one up and get an idea..I love your video..Wishing I was still an operating machinist.Thanks..
Really excellent video, thank you!
Very interesting, you do nice work.
Just a bit of trivia, back in the 50s Gillette bought miles and miles of railroad track to make razor blades from. If you recall the old double edge blades they marketed as blue blades that was them, and they had the market cornered for a long time because of that.
Great piece of work.
Very interesting nice looking riffling press
Very cool design.
That spring/spacer arrangement is a stroke of genius
I see what ya did there. 😎👍
Very cool!
Wau it looks so easy when you are doing this stuff and besides i have a lathe , mill and also shaper but wouldn't be able to do so ...I think ...but its a great pleasure watching your videos ..
I like this video. I pressed like! It’s real amazing!
Hey thanks for the video I requested its great to see you used some of my parts suggestions and used your simple but ingenious design approach can't wait to see the upgraded version, can you purchase a commercial push riffling button and show us how it works on this press and try to machine a 6 sided button or try to connect two three sided button and offset them on a keyway by 90 degrees
I'd like to see an upgrade that allows you to equally space your rifling, that could then provide full rifling coverage and with your new press could be used to produce a long barrel. Then we could see that test-fired.
easy young grasshopper...if you have never worked metal, and done what you saw in this vid. It takes time!!
I know this is an old comment, but I think it'd be relatively easy to simply make equally spaced radial marks on the subject being rifled, which would be easy to then line the button up with.
I have seen other videos on home rifling and it seems that the idea of pushing the cutter through is a common one. I made a simple rifling machine that pulls a rod with the cutter on its end, using a 4 ton hand crank winch. You don't have to worry about deforming the mandrel.
Your's is the correct method to avoid rod deflections. Do you perform this before turning the blank to the desired barrel profile. How do you straighten the barrel or do you?
Nice work
Make a video continuing the process. Great video.
Inspiring work Idahoan. And I enjoy your instant mashed potatoes too👍
Thanks a lot.
Next instalment: The Idahoan builds a nuclear reactor from a washing machine and two potatoes! I'm convinced this man can build anything from anything!
Such things could be done with a leftover hardened drill bit cut with a file and blade at the right angle. Hardened and serrated with a hammer. In the 90s
A suggestion; instead of new air compressor just get a portable air tank & have it in line. You can increase your air storage & at the same time have a portable tank in case you need one.
thanks for your videos!! It is been a while since I first started to watch your movies!! In this country where I'm living I'd get jail only for the idea of even thinking of making any kind of firearm! Now I'd love to know how to rifle a brass or an aluminium barrel for an airsoft rifle. At least I'd be free of some so-called tech, and so on...
There’s one more convenient add on you can install, an indexing tool for the button so you can repeatedly Rifle the same way every time and skip manual insertion.
good job
Awsum wow really good !!
I am wanting to make a yard Cannon with approximately 2 inch bore. Wondering if they make a button rifling bits in to inch? Just laughing! Very nice job. Great to see Ingenuity at work
The amount of force you'd need would be pretty scary, and if it's a muzzle loader you'd have a tough time getting the button out of the breech. You'd be better off cutting the grooves instead, with something like a shaper that can rotate the cutting tool.
This is very cool. Are you ever going to build a lapping jig to smooth the edges of the rifling?
Thanks, and yes, a lapping machine is on my list of things to build eventually.
Do you also plan to make hexagonal barrels, they look great
Nice!
Love tool time :-)
Could you do a video on how to build an extractor and the part of the slide that grabs the bullet and chambers it?
Ps, you got my sub well done.
Thanks for posting this. You did a great job with the video! Nice machine shop but no air tools for fastening bolts? Was kind of funny watching you use a breaker bar when you have tens of thousands of $$$ in equipment there. I was wondering why did you decided to rifle the barrel 3 times, or even use just lands/groves? I thought you weren't supposed to re-rifle a barrel due to the elasticity of steel and the stresses induced by rifling. Did you stress relieve & lap the barrel afterwards? How about cutting a chamber & showing "proof of concept" by firing the barrel? Can you put an 11 degree crown on the barrel? This was really interesting!
Man, your videos are great. I really like the production quality, and the ideas. Also, I am massively, I mean astronomically envious of your shop.
I do have a question, and I recognize that it's rude and ultimately none of my business. But, damn dude, how do you finance all this stuff. I'm not exactly rich, but I am more well off than the average American. I have nowhere near the disposable resources to pull all this off. Kudos to you. You are living my dream.
Thanks!
As to how I afford my equipment, here are some rough numbers to put it in perspective: The average upper-middle-class home in eastern Idaho costs about $200k. Instead of buying a spacious home for $200k, I bought a single-wide manufactured home for about $50k and built my shop building for a little less than $50k. The land that I built on cost about $30k, and so even after spending another $15k on machine tools, I've still spent less than the price of a typical home.
Then there is the interest effect. If a person buys a $200k home on a 30-year mortgage with a minimal amount down, then because of the interest on the loan, he will probably end up paying $400k or more by the time he pays it off. Before I bought my house, I lived in a run-down $200/mo apartment for several years. Then, between the money I had saved up while living in the apartment and some inheritance money that I had from my grandparents, I was able to do most of my construction without borrowing money, and what I did have to borrow I paid off within a year, so I spent almost nothing on interest. The same principle applies to things like car payments. I've never spent more than $3k on a vehicle and always paid cash so by driving old "clunkers" (that serve me reasonably well, nonetheless) I've been able to save money both up front and by avoiding interest payments. Finding ways to avoid borrowing money (and hence avoid paying interest) has been an important element of my financial strategy.
TheIdahoanShow
Thank you for the reply. I really appreciate you taking the time to make such a meaningful post in response to my question.
It's interesting. I lived a very, very similar life in my youth. I saved almost every dime I ever earned. Lived in a cheap apartment. I honestly think the difference might be where we live. I'm on the east coast. How telling.
Anyway, I do really enjoy your videos. The gunsite peak expedition is among my favorites. Thanks for taking the time to make them and share them with us.
Thats a very very good strategy... I have also a mill, lathe and so on and all bought new the rest of my hobby shop is under 30.000USD and not a single penny i got from a bank.. I dont want something from them and they dont get something from me...i don't finance this ill system... I dont need a brandnew car if it looses more than the costs of a good shop every few years.. Did it tried it.. Never again...
Great job! Fantastic! Please let me make some suggestions with out offense.
I think a hydraulic pump would be better than compressed air. All the heavy weight presses use hydraulic systems. A one pass button would be better with a flute to lead it in so no hammering. Can you cut a star pattern button?
Thanks! Yes, a system with a dedicated hydraulic pump would be nicer than one like this with a manual hydraulic jack and the air-hydraulic option. However, it would also have increased the cost and complexity of the project quite a bit, which is why I went with the jack in this case. Lately, I have been experimenting with making 6-fluted buttons with a star-like profile, which can rifle a barrel completely in a single pass. Because of the higher fraction of surface engagement, they are a bit more difficult to drive than the "triangular" buttons I started with, but they seem to work fairly well none the less.
New subscriber here as i know nothing about your channel i would like to ask what are you doing with the rifled barrels you are making?
Thank you.
Add a slight point to the rod used to push the button and a dimple in the button to make it easy to align and center the barrel?
If you have the means it might be more practical to try hydraulics, that way you don't have to wait for the compressor to keep up and you can retract it by just redirecting the flow.
You have a lathe, you could make yourself a set of makeshift cylinders, fittings and lines out of steel pipe. In fact if you made some directional flow valves (which you can do too) you wouldn't even need to buy anything off the shelf. And it would probably cost less than 50 bucks in material. If you look for "diy hydraulics" there's a guy crushing coke cans with nothing but cheap plastic syringes.
When you have a lathe and a milling machine the sky is the limit. Hope I can get there some day.
I thought of using a taper button cuz l prefer like half the barrel to be rifled, so will it work well if l push the button back out or will it be better to pull out?
Did you then heat-treated the barrel because of the tension? Did you just straighten the barrel? How accurate is it ?
My knowledge of barrels is rather on the user side but seeing this, does the bullet have a diameter of the driving button or the smooth part of the barrel? Because I'd say it matters. Does the bullet rotate then at all? What is the percentage of those two layers? And this - does the button push material to the sides and into the center? I would drill that sonofabitch once again or had run a round button through it. I'd probably spend some time in theory books before my first shot. It looks great and simple but I dunno man.
I plan to customize a PCP compressed air rifle, to fire a 762mm (.30) caliber projectile, but I still don't know the diameter of the button goover I have to buy to make the internal flute, and I don't even know which tube ID I should have. buy (which internal measure of pipe should I buy), I'm grateful if you can help me with information
I thought of rifling my new barrel like a half way the barrel by using a taper button so is it possible if l push the button backward after it reach half the barrel?
If that is ok, then can l redo the same process more then once?
Instead of buying a new compressor, simply plumb in an auxiliary pressure tank and fill both prior to rifling
Nice job...How come not having built a sine rifling machine yet?...
I'm curious what your cutting oil is? The Mobil brand I use is much darker color, and very expensive. It does generate some shop mess, but you don't worry about corrosion like water soluble (and can leave the vise on the mill table). Over time, it does seem to evaporate.
I started out using a 50/50 mixture of way oil and WD-40. That was cheaper than specially formulated cutting fluid and I could be sure it wouldn't rust or damage the machine, even if I let it sit for a while. The only problem was that the WD-40 had such a low smoke point that it generated a lot of smoke on heavy cuts. Lately I've been running canola oil as a cutting fluid. It works as well or better than the mixture I was using before, doesn't smoke much, and only costs about $8 per gallon.
Any neat cutting oil will do.
Subscribed! If you don’t mind me asking how do you control the twist rate produced? Is it a set twist on the metal riding punched into the bore?
The twist rate is determined by the rate of twist machined into the button.
Hey brother nothing wrong with the button guide or equipment that she used you just used cheap metal for your barrel I've seen it before change the metal that you use for your barrel better results other than that it looks great in the equipment looks great job 👌
Muito bom , very good
I remember your first one that you pressed and did a rifling this one is really a lot neater and really I thought the first one was very nice but this one is just wow there is a difference always a great show and I always learn something with you by the way can I ask you a question how big is your air compressor?
Thanks. My air compressor is pretty similar to this one: www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-60-Gal-Electric-Air-Compressor-VT6314/100083906
Show de bola!
Good videos just mind your fingers man. 1:21 almost crapped my pants.
I JUST SAW LISTINGS ON E-BAY FOR A HYDROLIC PRESS AND RIFLING BUTTONS!! I THOUGH YOU WOULD BE INTERESTED TO SEE THEM.
THE BUTTONS ARE LISTED AS:
Rifling Buttons Super Hard Alloy Material Special Reamer Make a Rifled Barrel
THE HYDRAULIC PRESS IS LISTED AS:
Portable Barrel Rifling Machine for Button Rifling Process Push Chamber Reamer
I THINK YOUR PRESS IS BETTER. HIS IS A GOOD IDEA THOUGH.
HIS BUTTONS LOOK NICE.
I JUST THOUGHT OF THIS ON THE PUSH RODS WOULD A V SHAPE ON THE END BE HELPFUL?
Still love your videos, but that beard looks like quite the welding hazard haha
That is extra protection Not a Hazard welded for years with a beard
I'm looking to make a barrel or 6 out of either 316 stainless or chromoly round bar stock. The stainless for pistol barrels and chome for rifle barrels. Or would you suggest a different material? I'm asking as I'm new to this. Any help from yourself or any viewers would be appreciated. Thanks.
316 is too soft. You'd need to use a hard enable ss like 17-4ph. Not sure if that would have the required toughness but itll definitely be better suited than 316
Question... Why not pull the rifling button through the barrel and do away with the need for the guide tube?
Well, to pull the button through the barrel I would need some kind of mechanical connection between the button and a pulling rod. That connection becomes a stress concentration point, and also adds significant mechanical complexity to either the button, the drive rod, or both. Also, brittle tool steels, such as I typically make buttons out of, have excellent compressive strength, but poor tensile strength, so designing the connection such that the button wouldn't just break off would be challenging. Finally, in practice, it is much easier to apply a compressive force with a hydraulic jack than it is to apply a tensile one. Thus, while I'm sure that a tensile-type button rifling apparatus could be built, I think the overall system would end up being much more complex than what I built here.
rats arsed .. and he's doing a great job ...i am also new to metall work bought my lathe,mill and shaper 2 years ago but I have learned that many ways can lead to Rome and if it works the builder is right and he did proof that ... probably not the only way to success but it's his way he shares with us and that's why I have great respect for his good work.
rats arsed
Then you build one and post up the video.
DarkMatterX1 he would if he could but he can't so he won't
Hydraulic log splitter would nicely adapt for this. They have a retract valve
So how does it work
So why the long guide/mandrel tube? Isnt the drive limited by the hydraulic press length?
The guide tube is longer than the hydraulic ram travel, because it also has to accommodate the bushings and springs. I have about 24 inches of travel, but then each bushing is about an inch long, and the compressed length of each spring is about an inch, and there are 12 sets of springs and bushings, so the collapsed length of the support column is also 24 inches, and so the guide tube needs to be about 48 inches long, or enough to accommodate both the collapsed length and the travel.
TheIdahoanShow why? I just don't understand I guess.
What about rifling rate of twist? Seems components are straight line, no turning for twist rate.
The rate of twist is determined by the angle of the ridges in the rifling button that is driven through the barrel.
Hi. How you make this rifling button?
Seen in a previous video on rifling.
Here is a previous video in which I made the rifling button: ua-cam.com/video/GQKOHioHJfA/v-deo.html Hopefully that answers your question!
Yes nice but i don't have a lathe i will try something else if i found. Thanks.
Jozsef Ienciu look in his videos he shows how it call the Norris Chuck I think if I remember right
Whats the longest barrels you've done with this setup? Hows the accuracy?
I think the longest barrel I've done so far was about 48 inches. Typical accuracy with the muzzleloaders I've built is about 10 MOA, although it depends on the load.
Quick question: Is it possible to rifle a barrel using hammer?Of course rifling press makes it even and better,but I heard that if you have too much energy and time you can try to do it with hammer :D
Yes, I've driven rifling buttons with a hammer before, and it works.
@@TheIdahoanShow Thank you :)
👍👍👍
Hi .can you show khow to mill 1911 barel locking system .insaid slide .excuse my english please .i know khow to do this on barel ,with lathe .but dont understand khow to do this insaide the slide.
When you catch the button is it not very hot? Great work sir.
When the button comes out of the barrel, it is usually warm to the touch, but not too hot to hold.
@@TheIdahoanShow thank you sir, keep sharing your great ideas please.
What speed and type of bit and rpms did you use to machine the railroad steel my mill bit just got all chewed up
Well, it's been a while since I made this video, but if I recall correctly, I probably did most of the machining with a 3/4-inch carbide end mill at about 1000 rpm.
TheIdahoanShow thanks
Legal ,da pra faser as raia em um cano de rifle
Get an extra air tank for the compressor. should get you there.
You should've got a hydraulic pump with a two-way hydraulic piston it would save your time and it would be paid in a matter of no time that if you are making gun barrels all the time
No HF tools were used in the making of this videos
なるほど。そうやって彫ってたのか。勉強になります。
Да, с такой бородой только у токарного станка стоять чтобы через какое-то время без нижней челюсти остаться.
Could you make a polygon rifled barrel? Is that possible with your process?
I think this is about the closest thing to polygonal rifling that can readily be produced by the button rifling process: ua-cam.com/video/9TKpea_fVV4/v-deo.html
COULD YOU IMPROVE THE RIFLING IN A .177 AND .22 AIR RIFLE ? I HAVE PRETTY GOOD ACCURACY BUT WOULD LOVE TO HAVE BETTER !
BTW !!!! YOU'RE A BEAST WITH THIS STUFF BRO !!!! EXCELLENT JOB WELL DONE !!!
I was about to ask the same question. I'm looking for a .177 slug barrel like a 1:12 1:10 barrel twist rate.
Correct me as I’m sure I’m wrong, but I thought welds didn’t hold good on railroad track as they were cast iron?
I was under the impression that rails are typically rolled rather than cast; at any rate, I've never had any trouble welding them.
Wow that’s a lot of oil,and that is a very short rifle Barrel ?
I think in the hole idaho there is no little inch of railroadtrack left. 🤔😂😂
Faça com cal 22lr pra vermos .. 🇧🇷👏🏻👍🏻
สวยมากครับ
You would make a killing manufacturing 5.56 barrels
Dril for rifling home made,??
How much did all of your machinery cost ?
If I recall correctly, the lathe was about $4k and the mill was about $7k.
Класс👍👍👍
do you sell this project?
therefore i'll be able to build up a setup like this in my country (brazil)
Nope, just built one for myself.