DIY Fix Clunk In Rear Sway Bar 2012 Mustang GT
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- This video shows the symptoms, diagnosis, temporary quick fix and proper fix for worn rear sway bar bushings.
Learn from my several installation mistakes so you don't have to make them yourself. This is an easy and inexpensive DIY project.
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I like it when people admit the mistake on these types of videos and don't hide it. It helps to know the wrong way and the right way.
I make mistakes all the time. Most amateurs do. My goal is to prevent my viewers from making the same mistakes :)
omg your screw method was big brain, i am speechless my mustang finally stopped clunking after I tried this ! Thank you
I appreciate you man! It helped me diagnose the super annoying knock over bumps.
It is hearing feedback like yours that confirm that I am actually helping someone else. ... Very motivating to make more how-to videos.
@@mrdiyguy123 I’m glad you appreciate my feedback, because I appreciate your effort. It’s guys like you that keep my car on the road!
For the amount of work, just get a new sway bar with new links and bushings unless you really don't value your time. Boss 302 set for the rear with already mounted links and new bushings is $150-175 and comes complete.
oh i absolutely replaced them with new parts... but I wanted to drive the car that day and didn't want to listen to the clunking...
You can knock the bushing in with a mallet or deadblow hammer, if you don't have a vise. Just hit it hard, square on the floor. Silicon spray lube is easy and less wasteful than using the grease for installation.
My suggestions would be to have worn eye protection, and perhaps get a performance sway bar.
Our 2012 Mustang V6 (pony package) w/approx 25k mi - sway bar links, bushings shot. Dealer went for the rear shocks first. I tried to tell him, but he insisted. Ended up having to comp me for the shocks.
Wow... for shocks to be bad at 25k miles the dealer must have thought you did dukes of hazzard jumps!
Thank you for this very informative video!!
I'm having real trouble putting on my end links back to the sway bar. The new polyurethane bushing is way too tight to get it on the sway bar.
Yep. It is a tight fit for sure. Use silicon lube.
This will not last long. I made separated sway bar links and even used the old bushing by reducing its circumference
For my rear sway bar, I whacked the end links with a sledge and warped it around the bushing so that it was tight. LOL. TEMPORARY FIX ONLY! DO NOT TRY THAT AT HOME!
just curiouse i noticed u had the drivers side muffler removed, ?
See my other videos for a few experiments I did with different exhaust configurations.
Update the p/n is 76102-B/54 & 55
Quick question 🙋♂️: those braces that attach to body just behind the differ then run forward and outward and attach again to the body (near the gas tank on the drivers side) what to heck do they call those? I need to order a pair. Unfortunately the previous owner ran the car in the winter…..bad rust on one of them. They’re very visable at 15:52. TY.
It is called a "support brace"
Are those rubber bushings or aftermarket urathane? Also, can you provide the part# and where you bought those parts from? thanks
The new ones are urethane from rockauto.com. my part number won't help you because there are different sway bar diameters. You need to measure your diameter before ordering. The website explicitly describes how to measure the diameter. Good luck.
My 11 mustang does a clunk when I turn to the driver side also… Not when I go straight…
Great video
What’s the car I’m the background at 20 seconds into the video
It is a super cool 2008 Tiburon
Would you mind sharing the details on the scissor lift in the video?
It is a Bendpak SP-7x 7000 lb full rise scissor hoist. I absolutely love it and highly recommend recessing it into the concrete floor to eliminate any clearance issue with low vehicles. I have not seen very many of these hoists around and don't know why they're not more popular. I also have a Rotary 12,000 lb 4 post alignment hoist in the next Bay but almost always use the scissor hoist since there are no posts.
@@mrdiyguy123 Thank you, I can see why you love it! It's pretty awesome
Fyi just take the bar completely out and ride around without it to fix for free loool. Just dont try to race until you replace.
Lol this is what I was thinking about doing until I can buy the BMR or Ford Performance end link set for $190 >.
Should've changed the top bushings.
It's a DIY job IF you have a lift because working on the ground SUX
If the rear wheels are pulled, the bolts are easy to reach. Removing lower shock bolt helps also.
Why wouldn’t you just get new ones lol
The sway bar is worn already, so new links will not help. The only way is to get smaller links (if your sway bar is 20 mm initially you have to pull 18 or 19 mm links)
my sway bar was not worn at all. it was the rubber bushings that were worn. I eventually was able to source new bushings but this work around made the car driveable without an annoying clunk in the mean time.