How to: Modified Hot Wheels race car build, technique and tips!
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- This video is a step by step tutorial on how I build a 60 gram modified Hot Wheels race car. I will show you my technique for building this 1968 Mercury Cougar for competition. It will be competing in BlueLine Racing's 60g Modified Racing series, travelling across country to run on seven different drag strips against 35 other entries!
Many of these steps can be used if you are just interested in doing wheel swaps!
Red Pill Racing's axle jig video:
• Red Pill Speed Shop #2...
BlueLine Racing 60g Modified Championship Series:
www.redlineder...
(0:57) - Tools of the trade
(1:56) - Test mule
(3:56) - Body seperation
(5:54) - Axle removal
(10:25) - Polishing the chassis
(11:28) - Polishing the axles
(14:12) - Setting the axles
(20:38) - Tapping the body posts
(25:06) - Choosing wheels
(25:56) - Sanding the wheels
(33:48) - Weight placement
(40:28) - Reassembly
(43:00) - Weight bias
(44:10) - Outtro
#hotwheels#bluelineracing#redlinederbyracing
Wow. Prepping these cars for racing is an art in itself. Great video. I just thought a wheel swap was enough to modify a car and make it a race car lol.
Thank you! There is a lot of time and energy invested in building a fast modified car. It can be very frustrating and also very rewarding. Hopefully this vid will keep you on the "rewarding" side!
Sometimes a swap and some pixie dust is better than an overhaul.
So much good information!! Thank you!! 😮 wish I watched this before I sent my cars off to 3D for racing lol 😅
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Bud.....great tutorial! A lot of detail went into this video!
Here's some of what i do
When drilling/taping I lube both with bee's wax....available on Amazon. Really helps the bits from heating up.
On your small .50 bit...I use a 1/16. but instead of marking it....I make my measurement....mark it n wrap it with tape....scotch...painter or duct tape. whatever ya have. it acts as a drill stop...so no measuring more than once needed.
On attaching axles or weights....I scuff or score the areas the jb weld is to go so that it has something to grab onto instead of just a smooth surface.
Hope this helps! Good Luck at the races! Im entered also! Caddy V16 Concept.
Great tips, thanks for the input! Good luck on the upcoming races, the V16 is a track weapon!
@@ScaleRacingChannel Welcome! Lets hope my "work" pays off!
Thank you for showing us and explaining to us each tool that we need in order to make our own modifieds. Most channels that I have seen run through it quickly and without as much information. Such as the exact screw size.
Top notch teaching!
Thank you for watching!
I’m glad you could glean some helpful info from the tutorial!
Great video and I am a machinist and love doing models. I'm new to this and this video got me interested. I never knew about this hobby and it brings back good old days when my brothers and friends played matchbox cars. The only thing missing is my younger brother and his annoying siren sounds
Very. Good informative presentation. Every Cougar I’ve met could use an upgrade. It’s all about the legs.
Thankyou brother! Hopefully she's got what it takes...
I never thought of polishing the chassis wheel wells!! Great suggestion!!!
Definitely give it a try! Thanks for watching!
That wheel jig is dope, I need to make me one. Also need to look in to that wheel sanding.
I have wheel swapped most of my premiums since I started racing, at first I did it because I didn't have enough metal/metal cars and I actually raced those against stocks. Back then I didn't know about axle polishing and any of that extra stuff, just swapped suitable wheels and raced. Now it's different since I'm starting to have good numbers of stock cars. I still don't use any extra weight on my basic swaps as I like to keep them as "stock like" as possible, I do have couple of cars with some extra tho.
Excellent video, I just forwarded this to a guy who is starting whole racing hobby 👍
The jig is an excellent idea, I credit Red Pill for turning me onto it. I too was doing a lot of wheel swaps, but I was going in the other direction. I was stealing Real Riders off of premiums and building mainline customs with them. So I have a bunch of metal/metal premiums just begging for plastic tires now... Thanks for watching and the referral!
@@ScaleRacingChannel I do have some RR customs also, but I'm starting to get farther away from those as I have limited space and they really don't interest me that much any more.
Brother thank u for the Classroom... Ive learned alot form it I'm new to the down hill races. Your track and content is Awesome thank you. Im a Disabled Vet an i look for things to help me pass the time and i want to say YOU have helped ME... THANK YOU...
First of all, thank YOU for your service!
And thankyou for watching the videos, glad I could be of help!
Awesome info. Great job. I will watch in segments. There is so much detail here
Thank you, sir! Hopefully you can glean something from the video worth trying!
Wonderfully well put together instructional video, well done!
I hope it encourages and gives some confidence to those who have not yet tried it, to give it a go!
All the best for the race series, see you out there.
Cheers
Thank you, brother! Yes, I hope it will help out the newer racers in their quest for speed...
Awesome idea with the gig use with rubber bands will also serve as a buffer fron contamination of the wheels totally awesome
It works awesome, I credit Red Pill for turning me in to the idea!
This is exactly what I needed to build my first racer. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
SOOO glad i found this video! I've just started building custom cars to send to mail in races and this was a HUGE help! Wonderful job
also LOVE the bob ross reference lol
Welcome to the channel, my friend! Glad this video was helpful for you. Don’t get too discouraged right off the bat with the mail in races, you will be up against a lot of racers that have been perfecting their craft for many years. Persist, and don’t be afraid to experiment. Good luck on your racing endeavors!
And yeah, I like to throw in some funny stuff every now and then. Bob is the man.
@@ScaleRacingChannel i appreciate the advice :)
Good luck in the upcoming races!
Thank you!
Sooo basically make an awesome pinewood derby car, but even more awesome.
Got it!
Pretty much!
The concepts and physics are the same, just much less room to work with.
And here I just took the car out of the package and sent it downhill. Thanks for sharing. Love watching the various races going on now. I wonder if any of my early 70’s cars are competitive?
Blackwall wheel cars, mmm probably not. Unless you have an Airport Rescue or Greyhound bus with good wheels.
If you are talking about early Redlines, then you probably have a few fast ones.
What a fantastic, thorough and well-presented video! Thanks for this!
Thankyou for watching it!
Awesome video.
Thank you!
I had never seen the wheel sanding done that way. Very interesting and looks a lot more time friendly then the way I do it. Also I am going to try that toothbrush method....haha!!
That’s just how I do it, seems to work pretty well... give it a try and tell me how it compares!
Definitely will try that!!
Have you tried it yet? lol
Enjoyed every second of it.
Thank you, brother!
Enjoyed your whole video. Well done , great choice of cars to demonstrate and build. Good luck.
Thank you, my friend!
Thanks for the tips. Good luck.
Thank you!
glad to see I am not the only crazy one , great job
Ha, no, you are certainly not the only crazy one. Cheers!
imagine this on a special edition full metal majorette.... its already so heavy and you add more weight to it. then, you'll just need to remove the rubber wheels .
One thing I might think would help is checking to see if the axle slots are true 90 degrees from the frame. Find a longer piece of metal similar in diameter to axle. With each end sticking out far you can check if it's off and stopping a role to one side. You want to make sure it's 90 degrees
It is important to make sure the axles are true in the chassis. I have found that the slots moulded into the chassis are usually very dependable. As long as they are held in place to either the front or rear while gluing. It is important to make sure the axle locking tabs are out of the way cause they can cause interference.
Thanks Brandon!!!!
it would be cool if u would have shown a before and after test, with same car, regular and modified, to see how much difference there is after all that
I would have definitely done that except for the Cougar starting out as a premium with real rider tires. We would have been comparing apples to oranges since RR’s are way slower than plastic.
Thanks for watching!
Building a metal roll cage may help in increasing weight and make it look cooler
Noice. I don't think we do racing here in Australia, cheers Graham
I know a few fellas there that race!
Granted they are usually shipping overseas for the mail in races….
@@ScaleRacingChannel there UA-camr here got a diecast race track, I seen he put drag strip in. I wonder if does it. I think he call. Bathurst diecast racing. Interesting setup.
@@theaussienurseflipper.8113 you have cutrock’r - Diecast racing also…
31:50 i guess thats why my old hotwheels datsun 620 always wins over the newly unboxed cars
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Thanks for watching!
Rd custom ( Rodney Davus invented) the Axel Aliment jig
Interesting, thank you!
Be sure to wear eye protection when snipping & even drilling, folks!
I’ll have to look. If memory serves me, the fastest car I had is the 69 Shelby Turbine. Again thanks.
You need a vice with thick foam jaw inserts, much safer and more stable than your hand :) scary !! lol
or use the wheel jig and clamp that :)
Congrats on 1K subs brother!
Thank you, sir!
Great vid. Thanks, but you shoulda let us see it run at least once
Thank you for watching!
ua-cam.com/video/FGfu1OE4084/v-deo.html
Skip to 13:30 to see her in action.
You don't have to have special screws to put it back together all you have to do is get really strength industrial glue
True, you don’t NEED to use screws, but I have seen a few glued cars split apart during the rigors of racing for me to justify the insurance that screws give me.
Is there any way to watch the races that this car competed in? Awesome video!!! I race from the virtual cockpit. #77 Glory to God
That's a great question/request. As long as they qualified, the footage should be somewhere on YT.
ua-cam.com/video/DNM_e61QWN0/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/FGfu1OE4084/v-deo.html
Loved the tutorial for customizing a car. Just watched your race on Blue Line Racing. What did you learn from that? Have you entered any other custom races?
Thank you!
I learned NOT to wait till the last minute to build a car (and film the process)…😆
But honestly, using a metal/metal car for a 60g modified severely limits where you can place weight for f/r bias in the chassis. This car did not have sanded axles, but most of my newer builds do.
I was set on the wheels I wanted for this car, I probably should have farmed a better set.
I have entered a few more since, mostly with Blueline Racing. Sent some cars out for some simple speed challenges to my buddies at Your Nightmare Racing and Bobby D’s Lakeside Racing. I simply don’t have the time between life and the channel to fully devote myself to building lots of mods.
Nice
Thanks for watching!
About to modify my first car. Someone recommended weights in front to prevent front end from swinging sideways? Or is it better in the back?
Drag racing: 30/70 front/rear weight bias is optimal.
Fat track racing: 55/45 front/rear bias.
Don’t get too mired down in being exact on the weight placement. It is just one piece of the puzzle.
Why would you not want to put the weight in the center under the interior?
Seems like it would anchor the center of gravity and help give a more stable and even ride weight on both axles and all 4 wheels.
If you were running fat track, that is exactly what you would want. But for straight line drags, a more rearward bias works better. The rear of the car sits higher than the front on your typical downhill start ramp. If the weight is in the rear of the car, then you will have more potential energy (which is converted to kinetic when the gate drops) and although it may seem negligible, it can translate to quite a few thousands of a second at the finish.
Great question, thanks for asking!
Great video Brandon. I’m going to finally do a wheel swap on two of my cars. Question is, can it successfully be done with a metal base/plastic body car.
Yes it can. The plastic can be drilled and tapped just like the metal posts. Just be careful not to drill too deep. Or just use JB weld to glue the posts in place.
@@ScaleRacingChannel thanks.
I put the new wheels in yesterday evening and let the JB weld cure overnight. I’m going to shoot a video later today with the car on the track.
@@ScaleRacingChannel I forgot to mention the car that I used is from Speed Racer. It’s Racer X’s “Shooting Star”. Mattel did a terrible job securing the axles. I tried using tubing to fix it and failed miserably. I kept the car instead of tossing it hoping to find a way to fix it. Glad I waited and found out about you, Red Pill, DXP, and others in this die cast community.
@@7thave.diecast945 I haven’t tried tubing axles yet. Have all the supplies, just haven’t gotten around to making one yet. I’ve heard they can be temperamental.
Let’s just say tubing is not the way to go if you plan on racing it.
Congrats! 1K Subs👌
Thank you so much!
have u tried derby tungsten putty? ive been playing with that lately, its somewhat sticky and stays in place well.
I have not personally. Elevation Diecast sent a truck in with some putty applied. Seems like a convenient way to tuck weight into some tight spots. How do you like it?
@@ScaleRacingChannel liking it so far. Weight to size is comparable to lead but u can play with it more. Was able to line the whole bottom of an 08 mitsubishi evo and put the whole interior back in. Quick, easy.
lots if weight towards the back how did the car do in the race?
About 30/70 front to rear bias is preferable for straight drags. A little hard to accomplish with certain body styles and metal/metal cars. Plastic base cars are easier to get the bias correct.
The Cougar did ok, but it was not my best build. I needed to farm a better set of wheels for the car. But it is what it is. The build was bulletproof and made the whole series without damage.
Thanks for watching!
How do you feel about sanding wheels of stock car. Basically it's still stock as it hasn't been drilled, but I probably would classify it as "enhanced stock" in my rule book.
Just a thought that came to me as I recently got this Camaro Wind, great wheel spin but when it's rolled there's this "clicking" in one of the wheels. I didn't see visible flaw but could probably fix that with some sanding.
I feel that sanding wheels will almost always speed up the car. I typically don’t unless I plan on sending out a car to race where the rules allow it.
I would be nervous doing it to a freak tho! Most times they are better off left alone.
@@ScaleRacingChannel I think I test it with dust before any further actions, I'm also trying to locate that wheel with click. It didn't seem to have any visible flaw.
5/32 bit for the button !!! Give it a try !!
Will do, thanks for the tip!
Hello SRC, What is the BEST & WORST mainline hot wheel wheel-type to chose?
Well, I would say the worst mainline wheel is the trap 5. The design of the wheel protrudes past the wheel lip and it really slows the car down when it rides against the track sides.
The best? Well, look for a car that has the larger diameter skinny wheels on all 4. Take a look at the Roadster Bite or the 09 F-150 now on the pegs. That is a good representation of what I would look for as far as size goes. You are always at the mercy of $1 quality. You could buy 10 of the exact same casting, and 1 maybe 2 will stand above the rest. Those 2 will have more concentric wheels with few flaws and not much resonance.
Thank you for watching!
What is the purpose of sanding the tyres?
Many of the wheels have small imperfections in the surface. Sanding the wheels removes those imperfections and cause the wheels to roll a lot smoother.
Give it a try, you’ll be impressed by the difference.
Hey I heard you can use color shifter axles and wheels because they’re nickel plated just like “faster than ever” axles? Have you ever used them? Are they any good? I just build my first race car for the Gotham City Grand Prix!
Yes, CS axles are nickel plated. Definitely worth trying, just make sure you polish them, no axle sanding. Sanding will eat through the thin nickel finish. I have used them and they work pretty good.
Good luck, my friend!
I just use my knife my good Bowie knife I cut around the whole plastic and then I get out that bit and then when I get to the axles I just use my knife to clip it back and then I pull out the axles and then I put it into the other other Hot Wheels that I want to😂😂
Where can I find the screws to attach the body to the frame? also what is the exact size?
This is where I get mine. Some guys like to use self tapping screws, but I tap all the posts and use these machine screws. www.ebay.com/itm/332128883185?var=541154582100
Thanks for watching!
How did the car do in the races? I just got into this and now I need to find metal chassis hotwheels
Mmm, not too good. I wasn’t entirely happy with these wheels after polishing, but I was up against the deadline and had to get her in the mail. There are some extremely good builders out there right now, it’s gonna take something with better wheels and better weight distribution to have a chance. 30/70 front to rear weight bias seems to be the best formula. Hard to achieve without using a plastic chassis car, unfortunately. But, by all means, experiment! Thanks for watching!
Can yu doo a video on the hot wheels truck mr.big rc
Is that one of the Track Trucks you are referring to?
@@ScaleRacingChannel yes
Can yu turn a track truck in too an rc
Why 60g? Is there a weight limit or weight minimum, or perhaps 60g is the ultimate weight for racing?
60g is a typical weight limit set forth by many of the tracks that do mail in racing. Some of them are going to 70g as well.
Thanks for watching!
With the weight at 60g how certain are you that the scales are all exactly calibrated? I own a very nice (expensive) scale that can be calibrated to a standard weight as scales are notoriously unreliable for standards that is why in professional weigh ins the use a scale with slide weight... So your scale may say 60g but when it gets to the next destination it may read 58.9g and then the next may be 62g.
When you build modified cars for mail in races, it’s always a good idea to build in a little fudge factor so your cars to weigh in maybe a gram or two shy of what the rules allow. Many of the race hosts allow for a 1g variance. If you build a car for a 70 g race and that car weighs in at exactly 70.0 g and the race host does not allow any grace, then yes, you are skirting with the possibility of being disqualified.
@@ScaleRacingChannel ok thank you, I had guessed that there was a little bit of leeway to account for that.
@@TimKapow most of these lower cost scales are actually pretty accurate.
I have a very expensive scale that if you breathe on it, it will cause fluctuation. I have found that the $20 scale I purchased from Amazon is accurate enough not to have to pull out the big gun.
@@ScaleRacingChannel yeah my good scale as well is so sensitive it will even fluctuate with evaporation 😂. Scales only need to be accurate to themselves for things like baking etc. so as long as you make your cake using 1 scale and don't switch then your a ok.
Scales should be relatively good when they are new but it is as it gets older it could and does lose its calibration hence better scales can be calibrated with a calibration weight
@@TimKapow I say the same with tape measures. 😂
Why you dont use rubber tyres?
Rubber tires just don’t have the speed like the plastic ones do. Thanks for watching!
@@ScaleRacingChannel ah ok thank you
What's the name of the cloth you use after the sand paper on the wheels? Also, in theory, if you didn't have a weight limit, would more weight = faster car? To what point? Thanks
Crocus cloth is the name. Most of it you find on the market right now is 1000g, which I would avoid. The type I had was more like a 2000g.
Instead, maybe take a look at this:
www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07X56G951/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A1F0ZX9W2WURWY&psc=1
If you sprinkle a little graphite dust on the later stages of sanding, it will give you a nice graphite burnish to the wheel. And more speed.
More weight almost always equals more speed. I say almost. It has a lot to do with where you place the weight in the chassis to maximize your potential energy.
You will reach a point to where too much weight can cause excess friction at the wheel/axle contact point. You have to be careful what wheels you plan on using for those heavyweights. They can wear through them rather quickly when you start going to 150g+.
@@ScaleRacingChannel Appreciate your thoughts!
Hi how do I enter
Definitely head over to redlinederby.com and check out the races section. Even though the slots are full for this race, there are plenty of other events that might interest you!