Nitrocellulose Lacquer Never Cures
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 бер 2018
- Nitrocellulose lacquer is a popular finish for some instruments and furniture, but did you know it never cures? That's not necessarily a bad thing though. Watch the video to find out why.
My favourite lacquer: amzn.to/2FqSW8B
Here it is in a Spray Can: amzn.to/2AFCq1P
Here is a quart of the watco, design for brushing: amzn.to/2HaoUad
Watco in a spray can gloss: amzn.to/2Fe0Oi8
Watco in a spray can satin: amzn.to/2thoIUx
Protect yourself with a respirator: amzn.to/2DHnUJm
Full face respirator: amzn.to/2DGwXKv
Hey guys! I’m Brad, and I make how-to videos, project vlogs, and more. I do custom painting projects, guitar painting, airbrushing, spray can painting, wood working, and a variety of other finishing work. Please subscribe and check out my channel for more!
Don't forget to ask your questions in the comment section.
Thanks for watching.
To get in touch with me with your questions, photos, etc. use the links below!
kit.com/bradangove
/ bradangovepainting
/ brad_angove
/ brad.angove - Навчання та стиль
I've been watching your show for about a year now and I must say that I really like it and appreciate your time and effort to help people with all the problems we can run into doing this hobby. Please keep up the amazing job. I watch and learn all the time. Can you please do a show about tone wood and sound quality from different kinds of wood? Acoustic or electric or both would be great! Thanks, Michael
Hi Michael. Have you seen my video on how finish affects tone? I think that may help provide some insight on this topic.
Great video as always, Brad! I can second the Behlen Lacquer (thanks for the tips and help, Brad). My project turned out great with the rattle can Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer. You just have to be patient and give at least a couple weeks drying time to allow the lacquer to shrink back and harden between top coat to level sanding and polishing. I will be using the Behlen's on my next project that will begin in a couple of days. Listen to this guy, he knows what he's talking about!
Thanks Dave. I’m glad to hear it worked out for you!
Nitro lac has been the standard in the musical instrument industrial for a 100 years. The final nitro lac finish will be thinner than other finishes thus less sound deadening than polyurethanes. In the finishing process, I wait 2 weeks after final spraying before final polishing; as lac gets harder over time and will be easier to produce a brilliant polish. Modern products are designed for fast production work but you are left with a heavy "plastic" look finish. Depending on your needs, try different products, learn the system and decide what is right for you. Many pianos are restored using French Polish. Modern Steinways are sprayed with Nitro Lac up to 6 x, stored for a week before final polishing.
seriously, thank you for clearing things up for us hobby guys
You’re welcome. I’m happy that it was informative.
Thanks for the video. Behlen nitro lacquer is what I use also. Great products. I recently bought some flattener didn't know they made the crackle need to check it out as well
I’m excited to give the crackle a try. Should be fun haha.
Brad Angove
I hope you make a video on the crackle finish.
That’s the plan.
Thank you Brad on your videos, I have learnet a lot from you.
Just one question, is it acceptable to put nitrocellulose lacquer over acrylic lacquer ones the acrylic lacquer is dried for let say couple of weeks?
I think you could probably get away with it just fine. They’re certainly not meant to go together though. Make sure you sand the acrylic before painting over it.
Are you in Canada? I see your products are translated in french. If so, where do you get your pigments to use with the Behlen Stringed instrument lacquer? Thank you!
I’m in Canada, yes. I generally get my pigments from a place called walls alive. I get my dyes that I mix in from a variety of places though, including Behlen.
I have used the watco in spray form on a couple of my guitar builds and I love the way it polishes up. My only frustration is I always get burn thru. Most likely my own fault.
It can be difficult to find a balance on how many coats you need. The Behlen comes out of the can better and faster, so with the watco you need to be more conscious of your coat thickness.
When you realize lacquer layers melts into one another and the end result of combined layers is a single thick layer then its not a far jump to the idea it never cures.
I have to say I used mostly enamel clear for a while as it was easier to work with in that due to its extended dry time it made it easier to spray it without problems that lacquer has (blushing, cracking, or wrinkling) but I realized the problems I had was me making a mistake. So after failing 2 times at an acceptable finish I tried a third time and this time was easier as I paid attention more to the spraying environment. The final product is a marvel that is unmatched by other finishes. What I spray (guitars) people cite a tonal difference but I don't see the finish mattering that much but it does make for a very good finish especially when trying to showcase finer details, in my case the grain brought out by flaming the wood slightly and then dying it. Worked out well.
Good video very informative.
Brad, this kind of helps with my nitrocellulose lacquer problem yesterday where lacquer pooled due to overspray and caused the lacquer to soften on the side I had finished. You talked more about lacquer thinner melting it back into liquid but didn’t say that pooling lacquer could cause it to melt down as well. I know you can’t cover everything stupid people like me do but do cover most of them. 👍
The pooling issue is pretty unusual. I think you must have a slower thinner than one might typically see.
Thanks, Brad Angove.
I have a gibson j45 standard and it has nitro finish and when I try and clean it with he gibson cloth I got with it it seems to leave it with scratches, is that normal for a nitro finish?
Any chance your cloth has some junk built up on it?
Hi brad, will acrylic lacquer yellow and check over time like nitro does? Thanks.
No, acrylic doesn’t yellow.
Hey bro, love your channel. I have a question about putting nitro over enamel paint. I'm reading conflicting things about it but I have some Sherwin Williams paint left over from a furniture cabinet build I did a couple years ago and am wanting to water it down some to paint a new Tele I'm building to give a semi transparent finish. I am wondering if I'm able to put one of these nitro lacquers over top instead of poly for ease of dry time and application. Can I do that without ruining the paint underneath? Thanks.
If the Sherwin Williams that you’re using is enamel based, your lacquer will react poorly and probably wrinkle and peel.
don't do it ! never use nitro over oil based stains and paints ! the main solvents in nitro : Asobutyl Acetate , Propylene Glycol Monomethyl Ether Acetate & Acetone will usually melt anything under it other than ngr stains or analine and other alcohol or water based dyes
Hey Brad,
Good video. I have a cricket ball and I have seen Kookaburra cricket balls made (on UA-cam channel) and they use Nitrocellulose laquer on the ball for the shine and it wears off during game play. My question is, what brand or laquer is best to use on a cricket ball? I do not want my brand to peal and crack during game play. Thanks.
I had no idea cricket balls were made of wood. I figured it was just the bats. I honestly have no idea what you would coat that with. Maybe just oil.
I have a guitar, finished in nitro, and on the headstock the finish is exhibiting some problems. Near the tuning gears, the lacquer bubbled. I was wondering if simply heating the headstock would melt the bubbles back into a smooth finish? How much heat do I need? Is a heat gun on high appropriate? Thanks!
That won’t work. Heat will actually cause the lacquer to release and bubble.
I left a strap on my Flying v in the case and it textured the back of my guitar. What is the best way to smooth it back out? It has a nitro finish.
Sand it smooth and see if you need to recoat or if you can just polish.
Brad: I have a Gibson Alpine white sg that I need to refinish the back of tge neck at the headstock. Any advice on color matching and where to get alpine white Nitro?
I get pretty much all of my nitro from Oxford Supply at this point. They may be able to help with the color match.
Hi Brad, can I ask a question. A small part of my satin finished acoustic guitar was rubbed over time and it becomes shinny. How can I make it less shinny? I don't need to restore it 100% I know it is difficult; but if I can make it duller or less shinny it is very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Have you seen my video on how to turn gloss finishes matte or satin?
Hey Brad, is it possible to fix someone's bad attempt at a relic Job. I've got razor blade lines throughout the top of my les paul. Is it possible to sand it flat with 600 grit wet and apply thin light coats for it to build up in those razor blade checks? Once they're built up id put some bigger thicker coats
Yes, if it’s lacquer you can do that and mix in more thinner to help melt those lines in a bit too.
I have a PRS CE24 that has a satin nitro finish. I wanna put a gloss clear coat on it the body but not the neck. I don't have a sprayer but I seen you recommending some different kinds of spray cans. Which one would you recommend for this job?
I like the Oxford supply nitro. They have really good spray cans. So does Mohawk.
Hi and thank you for your information and videos.
I have a devilbiss FLG-671.
Can I use it for both waterborne and solvent paint/lacquer and switch between them after cleaning? Are there any special cleaning steps I should take if swapping back and forth.
Did you buy the water-borne compatible version of it?
Brad Angove, yes I did
Then yes. You can use it for both. Just be careful when you’re cleaning between types. There’s no special step, you just need to be thorough.
Thank you for the info and taking the time to answer
Thanks for watching.
Hey Brad I know this is an old vid but got a quick question. Lets say I started with Watco lacquer and run out. Could I order some Belens lacquer and spray it over the Watco stuff? I guess my question is are they compatible so I dont have adhesion problems or getting one to melt into the other?
They should be compatible. They’re both nitro based. I don’t know if I’ve ever tried that specifically though.
Also, Behlen is now Mohawk. They discontinued the Behlen brand.
@@BradAngove Yea that's what I thought, I got a quart of Mohawk lacquer and need to spray 2 guitars. My thought was to lay down 3-4 coats of Watco then finish it with 4 coats of Mohawk. I really like how fast Mohawk lacquer hardens I can usually buff it within 7 days.
Quick question! I have a Gibson Les Paul Studio with what they say is a thin Nitro Gloss Finish! When it comes to using pro polish or abrasive type polishes , do I have to worry about going through the nitro layer? Or I mean is it something thats okay to do but you can only do it so many times before it will eventually burn through? And on the same subject, what about wet sanding? Im guessing that's typically not very safe or something you could get away with too many times on a thin nitro? Thanks!
Wet sanding is something you need to be careful with both because it can burn through and because the moisture can cause cracking. I wouldn’t wet sand a lacquer finish.
As for the polish, it doesn’t really remove clear coat, but you can still burn through if you are too aggressive with your polishing.
Okay, and just to be clear , by aggressive do you mean just don't press to hard?, so as long as your gentle with polishing it should never burn through?
If you keep the polisher in the same place for too long or press too hard you can burn through. Using the polisher on top high a speed is also risky.
Hello I have a Gretsch drum set with a nitrocellulose laquer satin finish can I apply Mohawk -OZ Polish PT to clean and conditioning ? Thanks in advance!!!
Adrián Rivera
Hi Adrian. I think we chatted about this on Instagram, right?
@@BradAngove yes, I was trying to reach you through your Instagram page too, but saw your video talking about nitrocellulose paint here first!!
Thanks again ✌🏼
Brad I have a question when useing nitro lacure. Does it spray much differently than synthetic Lacure? Also can you use synthetic thinner in nitro?
I’m sorry, I’ve never used synthetic lacquer. I’m not even sure what that is, so I can’t really help on that one.
Brad Angove sorry I was thinking about acrylic lacure all of my questions have to do with acrylic not synthetic.
The acrylic sprays very similar to the nitro, but doesn’t dry as fast. I usually use the same thinner for both. Just not for the water-based acrylic lacquer of course.
Nice informative video! Since nitro doesn’t cure, it off-gasses harmful VOCs continuously right? I really want a Gibson guitar but don’t want my indoor air quality to suffer…
It finishes gassing off after about a month usually. By then it has fully dried. It just doesn’t have a chemical curing reaction.
Hey Brad, its been 7 months or so since I finished my first-ever guitar build (strat-style electric). Used 5 or 6 rattle cans of clear lacquer. Even after all this time, the finish is so soft that when I took it out of its case, the imprint of the guitar strap lying across the body was faintly visible. I had to wet-sand with 800-1200 grit just to get it back to clear. I used paste car wax on top, but its not helping very much (as a shell). Can I top it with Poly, or is that a bad idea? Will it ever dry/harden? Thx.
How fast did you apply the lacquer?
@@BradAngove 1 light coat, wait 5mins. 1 heavier, then wait 5hrs and repeat. I live in Fla., probably the humidity...
Ya the humidity could be an issue for sure. It might harden if you put it somewhere hot and dry for a bit, but probably not. You may well have to sand it off.
Hi Brad, I'm thinking of stripping the paint of a bike that I own, but I'm not sure how to protect it from the environment - particularly salty winter streets. It's aluminum (some sort of alloy) and I'd like to just clear coat it raw. Is there a single clear coat product that you can recommend that will bind to and protect raw aluminum? I live in Canada so I assume I have access to most of the consumer products you do.
I've been looking at Tremclad clear rust paint, Rustoleum clear automotive spray, and spraymax 1k. I'm not really sure what to make of the differences between these. What do you think?
Thanks.
Normally you would just shoot some aluminum colored paint to give it that look, but if you really want raw, give a light coat of adhesion promoter and then use the spraymax 2k for durability reasons
Would I need to use an adhesion promoter if the aluminum was fairly brushed, not polished? How would 2k react direct to metal?
I was assuming the aluminum would be brushed or blasted. If it’s polished, I don’t love your odds of the paint sticking regardless. At that point I would probably just wax it.
The 2k isn’t designed to go straight over metal.
Hey Brad, super informative videos (just subbed!). I just picked up a 60s Classic Lacquer series Lake Placid Blue Jaguar and chipped a small part of the edge of the guitar. I picked up a can of spray Nitro (tinted the same blue color as the guitar) and a clear Nitro gloss finish. My question is, will the nitro just melt into the existing finish no problem, or do I need to apply thinner of any kind? Hoping it just all melts into itself after the tinted spray, then I can apply the clear coat. Please let me know if you have any advice!
Did you buy a spray can of the clear or are you mixing/spraying with a gun?
@@BradAngove Hey Brad- thanks for the response! Both laquers (blue & clear) are spray cans from SoloGuitars.com
You don’t need thinner then. You won’t be able to thin it anyway. You will probably need to do some sanding and polishing though. Try to keep the color to the effected area and the you can do your clear coat and sand smooth and polish.
@@BradAngove thank you dude! appreciate the advice
Brad, can I paint an Alder body with Nitro lacquer by just doing Vinyl sealer then the Nitro lacquer? Or do I need sanding sealer first?
Yes. Vinyl sealer replaces the sanding sealer.
Brad Angove Very cool of you to reply thank you very much. How long should I wait after I spray the Vinyl sealer to put on the color
@@jackdempsey9644 I like to wait 3 days just to be safe, but I have done it after an hour or two before.
What would happen if i brushed it on out of the can like you would normal wood?
You can get brushing nitrocellulose lacquer. It’s a good option. Don’t brush the spraying version though, it will dry as you’re brushing it and will get stringy.
@@BradAngove i was wondering about that. Thanks.
Choud you do a video about how to mix your own custom cellulose lacquer color (solid) color.
Yup. I can do one on that.
Hi Brad! I'm a new subscriber from Peru, i found your channel very interesting! So, i have a question for you, more like a "I NEED HELP", the thing is that i own an american original tele, with lacquer on it, the problem is that a couple of corners of the body and headstock had "absorbed" some of the pigments of some cleaning cloths (i covered it with some red and blue cleaning colths to avoid dust). I don't know if you've heard about this before, because i haven't, i didn't know that the lacquer will react that way, now there are some tiny stains of blue and red on some parts, due to the coloring from the cleaning cloths. I would be so grateful if you could help me with an advice. Thanks!!!
I would just use a soft cloth, like an old T-shirt or something, and a bit of polish. That should clean it up.
Brad Angove Thanks for the reply. I have tried that a couple of weeks ago, but no results. I just bought the gibson pump polish a few days ago, but haven't tried that yet, do you know any other way to remove those stains? Thank you for the help.
Sand it off/out with some high grit paper and then polish it back to a high gloss.
Can you spray stewmac nitro spray can clear over Rustoleom 2x spray paint? Any answers will help me out. And thanks.
I wouldn’t really recommend it, but if you let the rustoleum dry 100% and then scuff lightly to promote mechanical adhesion you should be able to.
Ok thanks man I went on and bought some 2x clear to do it with
Hello, thank you for info on nitro lacquer. Today I sprayed black gloss nitro lacquer over nitro lacquer primer, which had dried for 24 hours. However, after spraying 3 coats with 20 mins drying time in between coats I noticed that the black gloss lacquer looks matte and a bit grey rather than glossy black. Is this normal? Will it become glossy with sanding and polishing later, or is it a sign of blushing? Temp was about 18 C, humidity 70%. Thanks for any help you can offer!
Hi there. Did I answer this on another video? The question looks familiar, but I don’t see a reply.
@@BradAngove Hello - I looked through some of your other videos and their comments but couldn't find a definitive answer (apologies if I missed this information in one such video - newbie painter!). In the meantime from some research, I have concluded it is blush. Since I stopped spraying when I saw this development and never added a clear coat, could I fix this with some sanding back and respraying light coats of lacquer when humidity drops? Or is there another way of dealing with this? Thank you.
Is the blushing still there? If so, yes, you can sand it lightly and then spray a light coat that is mostly thinner. That should re-wet the surface and allow some of that humidity to escape.
@@BradAngove Thank you for the reply. Yes, it's still there. Humidity has gone up significantly in the past few days, so no spraying for a while. I'm hoping as lacquer never cures it won't be a problem to wait another week or so for this humid weather to change before I attempt a fix. Thanks again, very helpful video and replies.
Ya, that shouldn’t be an issue. It will still do in essence the same thing when you go to fix it.
How do I dispose of the stuff?
Trash can
Hello, nice video as usual. I tried brush on nitro (a lot) , acrylic rattle can paints and clear coats (tons of it), alkyd base polyurethane, shellac, hardwax oils, 2k polyester and 2 k water based brush on polyurethane ( almost voc free, very expensive stuff) but in the conclusion all of them seems to be garbage and none of them seems to fit for guitar finish. Nome of them is hard enough (I can dent each one of them with a low pressure of my fingernail). Ofcourse I made mistakes but over time I got the experiance to work with these stuff. I gave each of them the proper time to cure (waitet 20 days for schellac, 60 days for nitro, 45 days for rattlecans, 12 days for 2 k water based poly, 10 days for polyester) 2 k polyester seems to be the hardest but not near enough. I guess the polyester I used was poor quality.
What else do you recommend? Should I go back with nitro or schellac and accept the low hardness? Or should I try a better quality polyester. Or should I try something else like brushing epoxy (never tried epoxy)
Have you seen my video on how to get a professional looking clear coat with spray cans?
Can you spray “spraymax” 2k clear over colortone metallic guitar lacquer ? Working on a solid body electric.
It’s not recommended, but I’ve don’t that combination of paint types before without issue.
@@BradAngove thanks man ! I didn’t want to take the time and money to do the lacquer when I could hit it with a couple coats of 2k. Awesome channel by the way !
@@BradAngove hey Brad, how long you think I should wait until I spray the gold lacquer with the spray max 2k clear. I just scraped the binding and it Seems pretty dry after a couple of days. What’s your recommendation. Sorry to bother you. Have a happy new year !
@leestaggs8818 I’d give it a couple weeks. Lacquer feels dry quick, but takes a while to fully dry.
Newbie here. So lets say i finish applying a nitro clear finish on a guitar. How soon can i use it?
About a month
@@BradAngove :( haha thanks for the response
Can you apply Nitrocellulose over Precat Lacquer?
I would think you probably could. I’ve never tried though. Generally the precat lacquer is used in place of nitro.
Have you heard of Solarez UV Cured Polyester Gloss Resin? You can apply it with a brush and it cures rock hard in ten minutes. Then you can level sand and buff. I would love to see you do a video on this and get your opinion. What you say about nitro is absolutely correct. I finished a Warmoth J Bass body using spray cans of pre-cat nitro and it turned out well but, as you said, it never fully cures. When I finished my bass there was nothing out there that was an acceptable alternative.
I’ve seen a few people use the solarez. It looks like a good product, but I’ve never used it myself. I seem to recall reaching out to them a year or two ago about it.
I’ll try again to get in touch with them.
You should do a video where you fix a chip using the thinner and some dry paint.
If one of my lacquer finishes chips I will see about doing that.
What does cure specifically mean? I get that nitrocellulose and acrylic don't cure. They dry. Help out on the definition of cure
Curing is a chemical process that changes the composition of the material. A cured finish generally can’t be re-dissolved in the same thinner.
My question relates to a previous video on spray paint mistakes. I am a newbee and made the mistake of applying additional coats without letting the 1st coat drying properly. I sanded, I wiped it down, then I spray painted and painted and painted....now two weeks later the paint is dry but wipes off when I go over it with a towel to shine it up.....How can I "fix" it? it is my granddaughter's vanity and I hope I haven't ruined it....
I wipes off? Does it feel rough to the touch?
It is smooth and shiny and looks dry, but when I take a cloth and wipe over the top, I get a metallic looking dust the color of the paint on my cloth.
Sounds like you just need to seal it in with some clear coat. Wipe it off first, that metallic dust is probably just overspray that should be cleaned off.
Thanks so much ! That's exactly what I will do. I am learning a lot from your videos, keep them coming.
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Hey man have you heard of M.L CAMPBELL magnalac ? It supposed to be nitrocellolluse lacquer and paralyzed. If u heard of it, is it good? Can i use it to relic a guitar just as the nitro that u use?
Paralyzed? You’ve lost me haha. I’ve never heard of it. Is it a catalyzed lacquer?
Brad Angove lol Pre-catalyzed **** sorry haha
Oh, right. Pre-cat lacquer is good stuff. It doesn’t behave quite the same as nitro, but you should be able to get a similar effect.
Brad Angove so you think i can use it to relic and give me that look i want to the guitar?
If you know how to relic things properly, then yes. I think it will be very close.
Is rustoluem spray lacquer made of nitro ?
I doubt it.
I put primer on my guitar nitro type and when it dries i notice hair line cracks. What is causing this whish i could upload a picture but heres a link
www.strat-talk.com/threads/primer-round-2-ladies-and-gentalmen.504968/
I can’t see the picture, but nitro cracks because of shrinking. It’s a result of temperature and humidity conditions usually.
Is moehawk laquer any good
Yes. It's my favorite that I've used.
If I want to spray nitro over the Angelus leather dye what is the best sanding sealer to use (after the dye is applied)?
Use the Behlen Sanding Sealer, and then Behlen Vinyl Sealer before you spray the Behlen Stringed Instrument Lacquer. All of these can be bought in rattle can if you don't have spray equipment. I ABSOLUTELY recommend spraying the sealers, ESPECIALLY over Angelus Leather Dyes. This comes from first-hand experience.
Here's why, lacquer thinner is alcohol based as is the Angelus Leather Dye. There is lacquer thinner present in the sanding sealer and vinyl sealer as they are lacquer based sealers. If you try brushing the sanding sealer, the alcohol will case the dyes to reactivate and make an enormous mess. You'll be sanding back to raw wood and starting over.
Edit- I have tried other methods of staining with Trans-Tint Dyes, Artist Oil Paint (with Japan Drier), and I've found Angelus gives the best colors, the brightest colors and is generally easy to work with and relatively inexpensive compared to some of the other options. In other words, Angelus is my first choice over everything else I've tried for this type of project. You just have to experiment.
Edit 2* The Behlen products are formulated to work with each other which removes the guess work of whether the products are compatible or not. Stick with one brand, is the best advice I can give on that.
Thanks for the clarification. One other question...if I use tru-oil will I need sanding sealer? I know tru-oil can act as its own sealer - pore filler (I've used it before)...just need to know if it will mess up the dye. Thanks!
Either way. Doesn't really matter, you'll use less Tru-Oil if you put a sealer down. Plus a sealer will lock in the dye. Which ever you choose, just make sure your dyes are completely dry (overnight dry time AT LEAST). Putting a sealer down will help seal the wood and give more protection than just the Tru-Oil alone and will allow the Tru-Oil to build quicker. Also, it depends on type of sheen you're going for with Tru-Oil. Really, it's just up to you which ever way you want to do it. Sealer is a little safer.
A nifty trick if you need to grain fill and want the filler really highlight the grain. Put your dye down, let it dry for a couple hours. Sand back very lightly, put your filler down, sand back, put sealer down, level sand the sealer, then apply another round of dye. Seal the whole thing then finish. It might seem a little counter intuitive, but it really gives a cool look.
Thanks!
I concur. Except that I would skip the sanding sealer if you’re using vinyl sealer anyway. Everyone has their own strategies though to an extent.
Oh, and they sell Watco stuff at Wal-Mart now too.
Watching, heard about this b4
Haha I've used that exact rustoleum can you said wasn't good. I've had trouble with it in the past. Out of curiosity, why do you feel that way about it?
Because I’ve had trouble with it haha. It doesn’t spray all that well. It doesn’t seem to dry quite the way I like. I’m not a huge fan of acrylic lacquers honestly, but even so, that can is not one of the better ones I’ve used.
Brad Angove lol I know what you mean, man. My finishes always turned out shitty and took forever to dry when I used it
so some guy was ranting that watco was no good , only 3% nitro solids , well thats EXACTLY what mohawk is too , heres from their spec sheets ; Composition
Chemical Name Wt. %
isobutyl acetate 36
sweetened liquid petroleum gas 21
pm acetate 18
acetone 13
cellulose nitrate, cellulose ester 3
toluene 2
isopropanol 1
Ya, I’m not sure what one expects. That’s an appropriate set of numbers. If you want more nitro solids, make your own out of ping pong balls.
man thank you
I was about to post a comment about being able to reach full hardness, but I'll take the high road (Lol). Excellent video Brad!
Yeah, when I was watching this for editing purposes I was thinking “well, you’re going to regret that little slip...”
"As you can tell I've used a few lacquers", LOL.Yah talk with me for 5 minutes and you can tell I've used a few lacquers too, LOL. Yah, the flake at my work, yelled at me when I covered his legs in black lacquer paint when the spray can fell on the floor. He said he had to throw away his shoes, LOL. I felt so bad, even though I was laughing. Oh, Awesome video by the way.
Haha thanks.
That is a crazy comment
you're the flake and a giant sized asshole , sounds like ya better lay off "using a few lacquers " and try and save that 1/4 operational braincell u have left .
sounds cool, but you got me hooked on duplicolor clear coat and there is no 12 step program to get me off this drug lol
Belhlen (now Mohawk) has a Water Clear Acrylic lacquer clear coat that is fully compatible with Duplicolor cans
Hey, I have a nitro Fender Tele neck. I want to darken it up to a more amber color. Can I just add to it without having to sand it down since it is a nitro finish. (The decal looks surface mounted as well). I'm looking at the stew mac Traditional Aged Gloss nitrocellulose to incrementally bring it down to dark amber. I'm also wondering what the logo would look like if I left it on and layered over it. Any input is appreciated.... Thanks for the video.
Yes, if it’s nitro you can spray nitro on it and it will melt in and bond. Just make sure you clean it first. Slightly ambered nitro should work just fine, and it makes sense to have it over the logo because that’s what you would generally expect. Sanding the old nitro gently before applying the new stuff also wouldn’t hurt even though it’s not necessary.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the response. I see that Stew Mac has stains starting from scratch. I'm not that motivated to sand down an already professional finish. It's one of the American made fender Jimmy Page mirror teles. I wanted it for the nitro neck and rosewood fingerboard and no skunk stripe. It is just a little too pale for me,. Thanks again,
Hey Brad. I have to say, the Rustoleum Speciality Acrylic lacquer can be good, but you have to have the right conditions to use it.
That said, I'm going to be giving this stuff a try. Some luthiers I know swear by it. Very low VOCs and apparently easier to achieve a factory finish:
ardec.ca/en/c/35/lacquers
Which one are you going to try?
The EM 6000. Although, I'm a bit torn. That 9000 Poly looks intriguing. Hard decision, 34 bucks a litre is a bit of an investment, lol.
Yeah, that’s a little steep haha.
Update affiliated links they don't work anymore
I think they discontinued the behlen products. I’m waiting for an update for the replacements from Mohawk.
@@BradAngove damn cause i wanted to buy them through ur link. i love ur videos
@@iniquity7 Thank you. Here is a new link for the mohawk products: amzn.to/31ZW2f3
now heres the question watco spray can is $10 , mohawk is $19 , is it TWICE as good to justify TWICE the price ?
For me, yes. It sprays better, doesn’t check as easily, and dries faster to be able to polish. You can look at it as twice the price if you want. Of you can say, is it worth $9 for better quality paint?
Just ordered my first ever nitro strat , white blonde and every time i open the case and hold it my eyes go like Panda eyes but red . I have a little ezcma on my hands but there is something in nitro finish or the case that comes with a california cancer warning that is not agreeing with my skin at all ..First world problems i know but what a downer 😢
How long ago was it painted?
@@BradAngove Hi mate , it's a V22 serial so i'm guessing 22/23 . It does still have a strong smell to it , beautiful guitar though , got some cream off docs today that's working already so my immune system is just gonna have to put up with it as i ain't sending this beauty back lol
I think that issue may dissipate as the remaining solvent evaporates over time.
@@BradAngove Me too , i've been leaving case open let some air at it . All the best for 2024 mate 👍
Likewise sir
Personally I don't really like nitro. It's toxicity, tendency to change the colour of a finish and durability really put me off. I prefer water based polyurethane. When it comes to guitars some people are really stuck in the idea that nitro is somehow magical in tonal quality. You'd think that when it comes to tone oil finishes would be even more beneficial. I feel that a nice thin poly finish works really well and doesn't negatively affect the tone. At least of a solid body electric. I don't build acoustics.
On a solid body electric, it really doesn’t matter what you put on it from a tonal perspective. You’re right that some people still cling to that idea, but the finish doesn’t make a difference that we can hear.
As for the nitro, I think the main draw for people who ask for it is the way that it ages and wears.
👍👌
I have a mural in my living room , you can add to it and make video out of it if you want😊
Urushi lacquer cures.
my emotional problems never cure either.
Do they dry?
The tears do
I’m not going to recommend that you get a catalyst...
so it doesn't matter....ok. good
Lacquer never cures? I didn't even know lacquer was a MD! Lacquer, used on guitars for generations because it was inexpensive and it was almost impossible to ruin a guitar because you gooched the finish. It made for easy work in your repair shop, and got you respray work because it is less durable than other finishes .Lacquer the beer of bottled finishes.
Haha yeah, part of why lacquer is so easy to fix is just that. It doesn’t cure.
Knowledge bomb
Haha thanks.
500 views should =500 likes come on guys he's dropping knowledge least we can do is drop a LIKE
Sidenote: come dealers cut there cocaine and use acetone to harden it ... there pathetic for doing it I'm more pathetic for knowing.
That’s quite the side note haha. Doesn’t sound like the healthiest option.
Brad Angove no, no it's not lol
I suppose that 'different strokes for different folks' rings true here, but I often wonder why so many people on certain forums just cannot see past the 'nitro' finish or entertain any other kind of finish. Personally I don't want my finish to fade / yellow over time. If I wanted that colour, I'd mix it and be done with it!! I do think that there's a lack of information 'out there' about nitro, some of it rivaling the 'tone wood' debate, so it's good to see this subject brought up Brad. Actually nitro is not available in NZ (as far as I'm aware) for health and safety reasons, but acrylic lacquers are if one wanted to go down the lacquer path.
Acrylic lacquer doesn’t yellow over time either, which is nice. I’m more of a poly guy myself though haha.
Early af
First one through the door.