Manual removal, refugium, and UV sterilizer: I have a smaller system, around 70 gallons total sump and display, and i waited for the Dinos to accumulate to apocalyptic levels and take em all at once when the pumps were off. I didn’t water change, didn’t change my nutrients, I wanted to starve the dinos as much as possible. I also introduced a UV sterilizer to eliminate any suspended dinos I might’ve missed. The name of the game was to create as much of inhabitable environment to dinos as possible with competition for nutrients and active removal. When the dinos were at their weakest, I introduced bottled bacteria and managed to get rid of em once and for all. I didn’t water change for about a month or two after, introduced LOTS of more dry rock to seed (I had a small cyano and GHA outbreak but it was much more manageablee), kept my chaeto large in my refugium, and kept my temps maybe at 82F. Flash forward 2 years from the gauntlet, not one glimpse of dinos, and I keep a mostly SPS dominated tank. Good luck! I hope they won’t come back again.
Really recommend everyone to look into the UV sweeper tool. Basically a UV lamp that you hold over your sand bed 5-10 seconds at a time. People are seeing results within days and almost completely dino free in 1-2 weeks. There are some precautions to follow and also efficacy on different strains of dino needs to be looked into. Hope you see this.
I went through all of the methods you had in the video. 2 years later, I still have Dinos. I have learned to live with them. Looking forward for you to beat them so I can repeat your success!!
@@boosterman7023 love that you haven’t let it take you out of the hobby! I’ll keep posting updates and hopefully find something that might help your situation. Keep on reefing!
I have the same Waterbox and started my tank about the same time that you did. Bottomed out both phosphate and nitrates and got some dinos. I added a 47w uv sterilizer and dosed bacteria pretty heavy. I used Microbacter 7, Dr. Tim’s One and Only and Stability. I’m pretty sure it was the UV that ultimately did it for me and helped me beat them. Added that after battling them for about a month. I can’t remember exactly what kind dinos they were unfortunately. Keep up the good fight.
@@andyblackburn6690 I think my UV is too small. Only 25 watt. Also in the sump. Even though it’s smaller, I do think it would help to temporarily move the plumbing and have it pull directly from the display and back into the display. Even though my Dino’s are the sand dwelling type that don’t go into the water column, I still think that could help.
UV saved my first reef tank. I feel like i tried everything and i did more harm than good. Coral Euphoria has a great video explaining their theory on how they work/ what causes them. In short, the idea is that dinos overtaking the tank is a disruption in the biological filtration of the tank, new rock/sand dosing a chemical some sort of event etc. allows for the dinos to over populate the surfaces in our systems. The reading of 0 nutrients is because the dinos have consumed them before we actually see them taking over the tank, so its not that 0 nutrients caused the outbreak its a symptom of the outbreak. It doesn't really make sense that dinos will just die off if we raise nutrients- as they themselves consume nutrients. I can somewhat understand encouraging other organisms to outcompete though. I had success with running UV siphoning large patches out and continuing my regular maintenance.
So one thing many people don’t know .. is when you dose silicate it causes your Hanna phos test to read higher than it is. Grab another phosphate test like Red Sea to compare. Also the pods you want to be dosing is tisbe!
Damn man, just one problem after another. My current tank is the same way. I finally overcome one issue, then another one starts. I don't know why we love this hobby so much! lol. Either way, you're doing great bro. Keep up the good work!
@@MikeLemming thanks, Mike! It’s actually a goal of this channel. I doubt I’ll ever have the wall to wall SPS forest dominated tank (although I’d love to). Hats off to those that do that well. I’m hoping to show the real problems most of us go through. Hoping it sparks conversations of help and encouragement!
@ yes, the wall to wall sps is my goal as well. Currently, I can keep everything but sps. Icp came back and everything looks good. I’m in a hardcore trouble shoot at the moment trying to figure it out. I’ll post something soon so that you can see what I’m talking about. It took me months to finally beat Dino’s. Hopefully I’ll never have to deal with those again. They’re the worst
IF this hobby teaches one thing its patience, nothing good happens fast in a reef tank as they say. I battled Dinos for over 4 years did pretty much all the things you mentioned, I have successfully beaten them away, and the tank is working well, my solution was really to increase the biome, phytoplankton and the moonshiners method, which if youve heard involves no water changes, regular ICP's, keeping my hands out of the tank and honestly giving the tank time to grow the biome, its hard not to just try and fix it, but I went the natural phyto route, set up my own culture and let it work, gave it a year and honestly I've not looked back. oh and yes, I didn't chase numbers.... No3 >100 and PO4 >0.5 focused on letting the tank work, Best of luck...
Keep on reefing. I would recommend adding more live rock to add more bio diversity, and adding a uv sterilizer, UV has always been my best ally when facing dinos.
@@Hozay1 I do have a UV but it’s likely too small. Only 25 watt. The type of Dino’s I have are sand dwelling so unfortunately don’t go into the water column to be sterilized. But I do think it would help if I moved the UV from the sump to pull water directly from the display then back to the display. And totally agree with the bio diversity!!
@ that’s actually how I have it plumbed, a bit unsightly but if you rearrange your scape you can cover up any tubing or pumps. I also went a little undersized in the punk inside for the UV. I’ve seen nothing but positive effects since. Good luck.
I went through all the steps you went through for over 2 years with no help. What did work was a UV above the tank and not in the sump. I also took a gallon jug filled with RO water and had a hard tube in the jug going to an air line and I would attach the air line to a rod. I would then gravity feed the RO water to were the dino was and it would instantly kill them. I would do that every day with black outs, UV, keeping nitrates and phophates higher. It took awhile but beat them. I then put the uv in the sump and had return pump feed it to the tank. I got out of the hobby in 2020 when prices went crazy.
I fought the sandbed dinos for months following all of the standard dino battle plans. I decided to try the uv sweeper by 3d reefing and follow their directions to a tee. The sweeper completely wiped out my sandbed dinos after 7 days of treatment. There hasn't been a sign of them in the 10 days since treatment ended.
I've had salt water tanks on and off for 40 years and never dealt with dinos until my most recent setup 2 years ago. I tried a couple different solutions which I honestly don't remember. What did work for me was using a sochting oxydator with 12% hydrogen peroxide. I found the info in the internet and figured I didn't have much to loose at that point. If I remember correctly it took about 3 weeks to get rid of the dinos but to date they have not returned. I wish I had more info to pass on to you. In any case I wish you the best of luck with the dino battle.
What worked for me after battling for almost a year was live copepod and live phytoplankton. Add loads of copepods and keep feeding live phytoplankton daily. It took less then a week to clear up and its been like that since.
I fought dinos for over a year, until I stumbled apon a clip from Reefbum with Jake Adam's and Chris Mekley talking about raising temp and dosing Iron a bit heavy. It worked for me! Worth a shot
Black out to weaken them , increase nutrients mainly phosphate. It can not hit zero ever(key) or your new army of dyno competition dies . Easiest way is have something die in your tank and leave it. I had an urchin die and it fixed everything.(steady stream of nutrients) Picture it like a battle . No light weakens dyno, nutrients stay off zero strengthens everything else. If you hit zero you kill the competitors … raising nutrients without a black out just means they fight and dynos have the advantage as they are in full fledge control of the territory
@@reyrox3274 thank you! I will say my best results were after my 3 day black out. My challenge now is knowing what my phosphate level truly is. I’m dosing silicates and it is a known issue that doing that causes inaccurate high readings on the Hanna phosphate checker. I tried Salifert and Res Sea. They definitely show detectable phosphate but I have a hard time reading the colors to know exactly where they are.
Brother I’ve been watching your videos since the start. I started my first Reef tank same time as you. I just finished my battle with Dino’s after a few months of stress. Mines was smothering my corals heavy. What did it for me was an oversized UV sterilizer. Do you have one??
@@SaltyJaytee do you know what type you had? Mine are prorocentrum and they don’t go into the water column so most say UV isn’t the best option. However, I have to believe some of them do. I have a UV but it’s not oversized. Pretty much everyone that has commented on this video is recommending UV so may have to look at buying a bigger model. Thanks for the support!!
@ well you can force them into the column. Baste the rocks and corals and stir up the sand. I did that routine twice a day for 2 weeks and mines is now completely gone. I had ostreopsis though. Definitely helps dosing MC7, phyto and pods
I’ve have the same problem for nearly 2 years. You know what fixed my low nutrient problem? MORE FISH! I think once you increase your numbers, you’ll see a difference. No more need for neo nitro or neo phos!
@@Saltyrootsjax yea I noticed too if you raise the no3 or po4 too quickly it’ll cause other algae’s to appears. If I ever needed to lower nutrients I always used like dr Tim’s eco balance which lowers it slowly. GFO can strip nutrients to zero and very quickly. Just talking by experiences I went through. I’ve been in your situation many times over the past 4 years of reefing
@@westsida101 many of us have. I never claim to be an expert. The opposite really, I post most of my videos to help others learn from my mistakes, hoping to stir up great conversation like the majority of the comments on this video. It’s been great to hear from so many here about what did and didn’t work for them!
I believe its from the dry rock you buy. When I got rock from the ocean back in the day. I never had dinos or anything. Now once i bought this dry rock now i deal with dinos
I went thru this and i went crazy. I literally got frustrated and took out all the sand from my tank (100 pounds) then i hated how it looked so i rinsed it all out and put it back......what a disaster. I still have dino lol
Get a blue velvet nudibranch strictly eats red planaria. They hunt them by following a chemical trail the flatworms leave behind. They work great make sure to acclimate they are sensitive then pass it on to someone with the same issue or lfs once there are no red planaria flatworms in your tank. No need for flatworm exit you can get a wrasse but it didn’t work for me neither the springiri damsel.
@@Coral-reef. I do have two conchs. Could use a few more tho. The only thing that worries me about a sand sifter goby is I have the Dino’s that are toxic. I doubt it would kill a fish but I’m sure it wouldn’t be great for them to be sifting through.
@@kennynieves4110 I’m thinking about it. I had a diamond goby in an old tank and it did a great job. A little worried that the type of Dino’s I have are toxic. I doubt it would kill a fish but probably not great for them to be sifting through.
@Saltyrootsjax I hadn't thought about that, I'd do my research but honestly from what I can see yours is coming from the sand, maybe the sand siftter can help it stay controlled(not a fact, just what I think and I hope that it can help). In my case I have a 40g bow front and what was working for me was dosing hydrogen peroxide it died out so now I have hair algea instead😅
have you tried to raise the temperature? for a week now I have had a dino bloom much worse than yours. nothing helps. since yesterday I have been raising the temperature to 28°c 1 degree a day. akro looks better than before dino... my dino was probably the result of overwatering trace elements. by mistake I poured twice the dose.
In almost all cases Reefers, never follow scientific method when Experimenting with solutions to anything. They try six things at once, so you can never determine what actually worked. Was it raising temp…what happens when didnos are gone and you lower them back to normal? Does UV work…probably, but we will never know for sure because we changes so many variable at once. The problem was brewing for a long time and reached a tipping point. Like most of the Pros say, make small changes over a longer period of time We are all cheering for ya.
@@Jommybutler1234 I definitely agree with this. Easy to say the last thing you did when they disappear was “the solution” when in reality it could have been something you implanted 3 weeks ago that is only now taking effect.
@@Jommybutler1234 right? I’ve had somewhat similar thoughts when thinking about other methods and advice of getting rid of them, saying it takes time and be patient. Makes me wonder if in reality the Dino’s eventually burned themselves out on their own, naturally, and all these methods didn’t actually do a lot 😵💫
Please dont use those bricks, once you do icp, you’ll find out, they will leach so much Al, none stop. Dr Tim’s producs are the best. Also try to use the Eco balance
@ yes any kind of white media , will leach out, I’ve had marine pure and also ceramic media , they were both leaching out, it was hard for me at the beginning to remove the media , bc i was scared that i would loose most of the bacteria in my tank, i went very slow. . I noticed my herctobacteria died off because of it and i got high nitrate. What i did instead, i added 5 inches of deep sand in my sump. I orderd Bactive8 , it only has heterotrophic bacteria, thats what you need for nitrate reduction naturally , what it does , it consumes the nitrates and phosphate and it will starve the dino for you. I would also only feed mysis for the whole month, dont let the nitrate to go down . For my tank i dont use any gfo or rowa, bc at the end they all leach somthing or absorb trace elements. I also stopped using any amino acids and not carbon dosing . Ive tried vodka or vinegar in the past , it does work but your also feeding the bad guys. For carbon i use bacto energy from Fauna marine. 5-10 drops every other day. My nitrates are stable 15-20 and i do dose phosphate. In my sump i use red pompom algea, its not so aggressive when it comes to control the nutrient. Thats why i dont like cheato . Cheato is so agressive , it pretty much its like a sponge , streeps out all the nitrate and phosphate so quickly and once it doesn’t have correct level of nitrate and phos it just dies in matter of a day . Also keep in mind for red field ratio, dont leave too much gap between nitrate and phosphate. Too much info Lol. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the video. You got this 😍
@ yes any kind of white media will leach out Al, even ceramic media. I wouldnt also use any phophate remover containing lanthanum. In fact I dont use any gfos or rowas neither. They all leach out or bind important trace elements . You need specific trace element so your good guys bacteria can function and out compete the bad guys. I use red pom pom algea in my sump. And 5-7 inches of deep sand in the sump for Heterotrophic bacteria for nitrate reduction. Bactive 8 has only these typs of bacteria. I wouldnt also use any amino acids . I found out that dino or the any bad guys consume lots of amino acids. Also im not sure what you use for carbon dosing, i would stop any short chain carbon dosing like suger, vodka, vinger. I use bacto balance 5-10 drops every other day in my 120g. Also dont forget the red field ratio. Too much nitrate , low phos causes cyno, low nitrate high phos causes dinos. In fact i dose phos to my tank to balance out the ratio. Believe it or not i check for phos every day sometimes twice a day. Also check your food. Believe or not i only feed mysic to my fish. I always rinse it with fresh water before feeding. I dont feed my corals at all. All coral food contain so much phosphate in them. In my opinion coral only consume bacteria. Thats why i use long chain carbon dosing . So naturally phosphate and nitrate are getting low. If nitrates and phos are climbing up that means not is getting consumed, or if its getting lowerd its beacuse bad guys are consuming them , thats why we get dino’s.
@ also please dont add Uv, Uv doesn’t discriminate, it will also kill the good guys. Also some dino’s are uv resistant. You cant get rid of dino , you can only control them. Also add some carbon in the sump, dinos are not bad when they’re alive but once whole bunch of them die with all the stuff that your doing, they will realese lots of toxins. Everyone says not to do water change , I’d say do a water change 10 to 15 percent every day. The goal is to keep the corals alive while battling this issue. Go slow with what ever your doing, small water changes , and slowly bring the phos down . See , thats why rowa phos , if you put too much , its gonna Streep out the phos . Thats why i choose the red algea in my sump over cheato. Cheato is so agressive and once it streeps out the nitrate and phos , it will start melting , and its so hard to remove it. And when you look at the cheato , you think its alive, but its actully dead. And its gonna realease all the nitrate and phos to the water, then here we go , dinos are back
@@PassionateReef I have a 25 watt, likely not enough power. Although I have the sand dwelling type I know some still will go into the water column so thinking about temporarily re plumbing the UV from the sump to pull directly from the display then back to the display.
Tank looks light on both fish, coral and CuC! Throw some conches in the tank, lots and lots of pods and feed!!! Not sure what you’re using for nutrient extraction but clearly it’s too much… 5:30 - damn dude don’t use GFO, let the phosphate fall naturally, your going from one extreme to another every couple of days! Ps - Best thing I did was to add amphipods, they exploded during my dino, GHA period and they ended it in just a few days.
@ I have a Pentair 40 watt UV sterilizer on my 112 gallon. It’s massive for that size tank but any signs of trouble like Dino’s or Ich they are toast when I turn it on. I turn it off when there is no signs of unwanted pests.
@@DaltonReefing I used to have that exact one on an old tank, and I miss it. Unfortunately sold that one. Running the Aqua Ultraviolet 25 watt now which is probably a little small for my tank.
I personally would stop making all of the changes. How would you know what's working? Why not just buy two dosing pumps and dial in your nitrates and phosphates? When you add all of these various elements, you lose a large degree of control. I would just slow down personally. I'm by no means an expert like almost everyone else here, lol, but seriously, just get it stable and then work from there. I have a 15g tank that I dose 1m of neophos via pump each day. I tested daily and figured out my daily consumption, and now my tank sits right at .03. Just get the tank stable and slow down.
@@danielmartins754 I do have an aqua ultraviolet UV. Unfortunately, the effectiveness of UV largely depends on the type of Dino you have. Prorocentrum, what I have, stays on the sand and doesn’t go into the water column, making the UV not as effective. That said, I know it does still help regardless. Mine is a little undersized tho.
@@LukeGreen_ I have one. But unfortunately this type of Dino is sand dwelling and doesn’t go into the water column so UV isn’t as effective as it is with other types. I may try moving the UV from the sump up to the display though.
@@SaltyrootsjaxAs long as the UV is after your mechanical filtration you are fine. Water is water, whether it passes thru the sump or not. You probably know that diff organisms require diff length of exposure to UV to kill them. 25 watts should treat 150 gallons at 233gph. If your pump is pushing more volume than that, you need to reduce it.
The UV wand from 3DReefing is what allowed me to finally keep SCA dinos under control although they are still visible under the microscope. I also did generous doses of phyto and some light carbon dosing at night to keep the bacteria flourishing. AF Life Source mud also seems to help. I hope we all become dino free in 2025.
You're trying to many things to quickly. I would have gotten a uv light and use microbacter 7 slowly increase nutrients and maybe buy a few pieces of ocean live rock as last resort. You're shocking the hell out of your system.
Manual removal, refugium, and UV sterilizer:
I have a smaller system, around 70 gallons total sump and display, and i waited for the Dinos to accumulate to apocalyptic levels and take em all at once when the pumps were off. I didn’t water change, didn’t change my nutrients, I wanted to starve the dinos as much as possible. I also introduced a UV sterilizer to eliminate any suspended dinos I might’ve missed. The name of the game was to create as much of inhabitable environment to dinos as possible with competition for nutrients and active removal.
When the dinos were at their weakest, I introduced bottled bacteria and managed to get rid of em once and for all. I didn’t water change for about a month or two after, introduced LOTS of more dry rock to seed (I had a small cyano and GHA outbreak but it was much more manageablee), kept my chaeto large in my refugium, and kept my temps maybe at 82F.
Flash forward 2 years from the gauntlet, not one glimpse of dinos, and I keep a mostly SPS dominated tank. Good luck! I hope they won’t come back again.
@@gyths7301 thank you for sharing!
Really recommend everyone to look into the UV sweeper tool. Basically a UV lamp that you hold over your sand bed 5-10 seconds at a time. People are seeing results within days and almost completely dino free in 1-2 weeks. There are some precautions to follow and also efficacy on different strains of dino needs to be looked into. Hope you see this.
@@waqas42 I want one! Sold out right now but I’ve been checking their site daily
I went through all of the methods you had in the video. 2 years later, I still have Dinos. I have learned to live with them. Looking forward for you to beat them so I can repeat your success!!
@@boosterman7023 love that you haven’t let it take you out of the hobby! I’ll keep posting updates and hopefully find something that might help your situation. Keep on reefing!
I have the same Waterbox and started my tank about the same time that you did. Bottomed out both phosphate and nitrates and got some dinos. I added a 47w uv sterilizer and dosed bacteria pretty heavy. I used Microbacter 7, Dr. Tim’s One and Only and Stability.
I’m pretty sure it was the UV that ultimately did it for me and helped me beat them. Added that after battling them for about a month. I can’t remember exactly what kind dinos they were unfortunately.
Keep up the good fight.
@@andyblackburn6690 I think my UV is too small. Only 25 watt. Also in the sump. Even though it’s smaller, I do think it would help to temporarily move the plumbing and have it pull directly from the display and back into the display. Even though my Dino’s are the sand dwelling type that don’t go into the water column, I still think that could help.
UV saved my first reef tank. I feel like i tried everything and i did more harm than good. Coral Euphoria has a great video explaining their theory on how they work/ what causes them. In short, the idea is that dinos overtaking the tank is a disruption in the biological filtration of the tank, new rock/sand dosing a chemical some sort of event etc. allows for the dinos to over populate the surfaces in our systems. The reading of 0 nutrients is because the dinos have consumed them before we actually see them taking over the tank, so its not that 0 nutrients caused the outbreak its a symptom of the outbreak. It doesn't really make sense that dinos will just die off if we raise nutrients- as they themselves consume nutrients. I can somewhat understand encouraging other organisms to outcompete though. I had success with running UV siphoning large patches out and continuing my regular maintenance.
@@vladimirwoodchester2616 great info and thank you! Based on that, I would say the chemi clean is what made them explode in my case.
So one thing many people don’t know .. is when you dose silicate it causes your Hanna phos test to read higher than it is. Grab another phosphate test like Red Sea to compare. Also the pods you want to be dosing is tisbe!
@@TheAquaholic someone just told me this on Facebook too. Definitely didn’t know that. Thank you!
@@Saltyrootsjax np! Looking forward to the next video!
This. I have a salifert test just for this.
You got this brother!! The reeding Gods will shine down on you soon enough! I’m terrified to start my 165 lol
@@gregorykarapetian2822 just learn from all my mistakes and you will do great! Test the nitrate and phosphate at least once per week.
Damn man, just one problem after another. My current tank is the same way. I finally overcome one issue, then another one starts. I don't know why we love this hobby so much! lol. Either way, you're doing great bro. Keep up the good work!
@@MikeLemming thanks, Mike! It’s actually a goal of this channel. I doubt I’ll ever have the wall to wall SPS forest dominated tank (although I’d love to). Hats off to those that do that well. I’m hoping to show the real problems most of us go through. Hoping it sparks conversations of help and encouragement!
@ yes, the wall to wall sps is my goal as well. Currently, I can keep everything but sps. Icp came back and everything looks good. I’m in a hardcore trouble shoot at the moment trying to figure it out. I’ll post something soon so that you can see what I’m talking about. It took me months to finally beat Dino’s. Hopefully I’ll never have to deal with those again. They’re the worst
IF this hobby teaches one thing its patience, nothing good happens fast in a reef tank as they say. I battled Dinos for over 4 years did pretty much all the things you mentioned, I have successfully beaten them away, and the tank is working well, my solution was really to increase the biome, phytoplankton and the moonshiners method, which if youve heard involves no water changes, regular ICP's, keeping my hands out of the tank and honestly giving the tank time to grow the biome, its hard not to just try and fix it, but I went the natural phyto route, set up my own culture and let it work, gave it a year and honestly I've not looked back. oh and yes, I didn't chase numbers.... No3 >100 and PO4 >0.5 focused on letting the tank work, Best of luck...
@@theoriginalgiz great advice and thank you!
I’m in the same boat with my main display. Now I’m dosing phyto, pods, and getting my chemistry right with Reef Moonshiners.
So what did it for me was picked up my flow by a lot stopped feeding, uv and 8 hours of light max
Keep on reefing.
I would recommend adding more live rock to add more bio diversity, and adding a uv sterilizer, UV has always been my best ally when facing dinos.
@@Hozay1 I do have a UV but it’s likely too small. Only 25 watt. The type of Dino’s I have are sand dwelling so unfortunately don’t go into the water column to be sterilized. But I do think it would help if I moved the UV from the sump to pull water directly from the display then back to the display. And totally agree with the bio diversity!!
@ that’s actually how I have it plumbed, a bit unsightly but if you rearrange your scape you can cover up any tubing or pumps. I also went a little undersized in the punk inside for the UV. I’ve seen nothing but positive effects since. Good luck.
@ thank you!
If you suspect your UV is underpowered, you can add a gate valve to reduce the flow rate, which will increase the dwell time of the treatment.
I went through all the steps you went through for over 2 years with no help. What did work was a UV above the tank and not in the sump. I also took a gallon jug filled with RO water and had a hard tube in the jug going to an air line and I would attach the air line to a rod. I would then gravity feed the RO water to were the dino was and it would instantly kill them. I would do that every day with black outs, UV, keeping nitrates and phophates higher. It took awhile but beat them. I then put the uv in the sump and had return pump feed it to the tank. I got out of the hobby in 2020 when prices went crazy.
@@chinw76 all that work plus prices skyrocketing would drive most people out of the hobby! Sorry to hear that but thanks for the tips!
I fought the sandbed dinos for months following all of the standard dino battle plans.
I decided to try the uv sweeper by 3d reefing and follow their directions to a tee.
The sweeper completely wiped out my sandbed dinos after 7 days of treatment.
There hasn't been a sign of them in the 10 days since treatment ended.
@@pdiggity1 haven’t heard of this. I will check it out. Thanks!
@@Saltyrootsjaxhow much silicates are you dosing daily and what’s the ratio? I have a 260g aquarium.
@@nmarq005 I mix 2 ml of water glass with 250 ml of RODI water and dose that daily
I've had salt water tanks on and off for 40 years and never dealt with dinos until my most recent setup 2 years ago. I tried a couple different solutions which I honestly don't remember. What did work for me was using a sochting oxydator with 12% hydrogen peroxide. I found the info in the internet and figured I didn't have much to loose at that point. If I remember correctly it took about 3 weeks to get rid of the dinos but to date they have not returned. I wish I had more info to pass on to you. In any case I wish you the best of luck with the dino battle.
What worked for me after battling for almost a year was live copepod and live phytoplankton. Add loads of copepods and keep feeding live phytoplankton daily.
It took less then a week to clear up and its been like that since.
I fought dinos for over a year, until I stumbled apon a clip from Reefbum with Jake Adam's and Chris Mekley talking about raising temp and dosing Iron a bit heavy. It worked for me! Worth a shot
@@reeferfish3001 interesting! I did raise my temp but haven’t heard about dosing iron. I’ll have to check that out!
I second this. Iron and temp at 79-80 degrees was the answer for me after a 6 month battle. RIP Jake he really was the GOAT
More specifically I bought Brightwell Ferrion and dosed as recommended for a few days
Black out to weaken them , increase nutrients mainly phosphate. It can not hit zero ever(key) or your new army of dyno competition dies . Easiest way is have something die in your tank and leave it. I had an urchin die and it fixed everything.(steady stream of nutrients)
Picture it like a battle . No light weakens dyno, nutrients stay off zero strengthens everything else. If you hit zero you kill the competitors … raising nutrients without a black out just means they fight and dynos have the advantage as they are in full fledge control of the territory
@@reyrox3274 thank you! I will say my best results were after my 3 day black out. My challenge now is knowing what my phosphate level truly is. I’m dosing silicates and it is a known issue that doing that causes inaccurate high readings on the Hanna phosphate checker. I tried Salifert and Res Sea. They definitely show detectable phosphate but I have a hard time reading the colors to know exactly where they are.
@ i had to switch to a Hanna checker to get an accurate reading
Brother I’ve been watching your videos since the start. I started my first Reef tank same time as you. I just finished my battle with Dino’s after a few months of stress. Mines was smothering my corals heavy. What did it for me was an oversized UV sterilizer. Do you have one??
@@SaltyJaytee do you know what type you had? Mine are prorocentrum and they don’t go into the water column so most say UV isn’t the best option. However, I have to believe some of them do. I have a UV but it’s not oversized. Pretty much everyone that has commented on this video is recommending UV so may have to look at buying a bigger model. Thanks for the support!!
@ well you can force them into the column. Baste the rocks and corals and stir up the sand. I did that routine twice a day for 2 weeks and mines is now completely gone. I had ostreopsis though. Definitely helps dosing MC7, phyto and pods
Try aqua forest life source. It will add more bio diversity.
@@revZ098 I will definitely check that out! Thanks!
Welcome to the nightmare kingdom of reef keepers DINOS!!!!
@@nancyvallejo9149 lol. Second time battling them too!
Silica, nutrients, physical removal, and most importantly time is what works for me.
@@jaykay3889 also seems to be some of the main things working for me.
I feel for ya bro.. that sucks. hang in there , the tank will level out sooner or later.
Don’t sleep on a UV paired with the correct gph pump!
I’ve have the same problem for nearly 2 years. You know what fixed my low nutrient problem? MORE FISH! I think once you increase your numbers, you’ll see a difference. No more need for neo nitro or neo phos!
@@westsida101 I have added a few! Hopefully they will help.
@@Saltyrootsjax yea I noticed too if you raise the no3 or po4 too quickly it’ll cause other algae’s to appears. If I ever needed to lower nutrients I always used like dr Tim’s eco balance which lowers it slowly. GFO can strip nutrients to zero and very quickly. Just talking by experiences I went through. I’ve been in your situation many times over the past 4 years of reefing
@@westsida101 many of us have. I never claim to be an expert. The opposite really, I post most of my videos to help others learn from my mistakes, hoping to stir up great conversation like the majority of the comments on this video. It’s been great to hear from so many here about what did and didn’t work for them!
I’m also fighting dinos! I’ve made good progress so far.
I believe its from the dry rock you buy. When I got rock from the ocean back in the day. I never had dinos or anything. Now once i bought this dry rock now i deal with dinos
I went thru this and i went crazy. I literally got frustrated and took out all the sand from my tank (100 pounds) then i hated how it looked so i rinsed it all out and put it back......what a disaster. I still have dino lol
I was fighting Dino’s and got my self a 50w uv, microbactor 7 and 2 months it went away..😊
Get a blue velvet nudibranch strictly eats red planaria. They hunt them by following a chemical trail the flatworms leave behind. They work great make sure to acclimate they are sensitive then pass it on to someone with the same issue or lfs once there are no red planaria flatworms in your tank. No need for flatworm exit you can get a wrasse but it didn’t work for me neither the springiri damsel.
I had dinos
They just kept getting worse and worse
A 3 day blackout took care of it
Is it ok to do a black out with corals and fish. ?
@ yeah they won’t die in 3 days
Corals maybe over a week idk
Try a few conch snails and gobies
@@Coral-reef. I do have two conchs. Could use a few more tho. The only thing that worries me about a sand sifter goby is I have the Dino’s that are toxic. I doubt it would kill a fish but I’m sure it wouldn’t be great for them to be sifting through.
get a sandsifter goby, i got one like six months ago and the sand has never look better
@@kennynieves4110 I’m thinking about it. I had a diamond goby in an old tank and it did a great job. A little worried that the type of Dino’s I have are toxic. I doubt it would kill a fish but probably not great for them to be sifting through.
@Saltyrootsjax I hadn't thought about that, I'd do my research but honestly from what I can see yours is coming from the sand, maybe the sand siftter can help it stay controlled(not a fact, just what I think and I hope that it can help). In my case I have a 40g bow front and what was working for me was dosing hydrogen peroxide it died out so now I have hair algea instead😅
@@Saltyrootsjax btw do you have a uv filter? if not get one
@ haha it’s always something!
@ yeah but it’s on the smaller side and in the sump. I’ve thought about plumbing it up to pull from and go directly back to the display
have you tried to raise the temperature? for a week now I have had a dino bloom much worse than yours. nothing helps. since yesterday I have been raising the temperature to 28°c 1 degree a day. akro looks better than before dino... my dino was probably the result of overwatering trace elements. by mistake I poured twice the dose.
In almost all cases Reefers, never follow scientific method when Experimenting with solutions to anything. They try six things at once, so you can never determine what actually worked. Was it raising temp…what happens when didnos are gone and you lower them back to normal? Does UV work…probably, but we will never know for sure because we changes so many variable at once. The problem was brewing for a long time and reached a tipping point. Like most of the Pros say, make small changes over a longer period of time
We are all cheering for ya.
@@Jommybutler1234 I definitely agree with this. Easy to say the last thing you did when they disappear was “the solution” when in reality it could have been something you implanted 3 weeks ago that is only now taking effect.
@ Or the solution may have been change nothing and everything you did is prolonging the Pain.
@@Jommybutler1234 right? I’ve had somewhat similar thoughts when thinking about other methods and advice of getting rid of them, saying it takes time and be patient. Makes me wonder if in reality the Dino’s eventually burned themselves out on their own, naturally, and all these methods didn’t actually do a lot 😵💫
It was easy for me in my 125, raise the flow lower the lights.
More sand sifters and snails.
Please dont use those bricks, once you do icp, you’ll find out, they will leach so much Al, none stop. Dr Tim’s producs are the best. Also try to use the Eco balance
@@reydavidof9379 I’ve heard that about some. You think it’s fair to say all brands of the bricks do that? Should probably take them out then.
@ yes any kind of white media , will leach out, I’ve had marine pure and also ceramic media , they were both leaching out, it was hard for me at the beginning to remove the media , bc i was scared that i would loose most of the bacteria in my tank, i went very slow. . I noticed my herctobacteria died off because of it and i got high nitrate. What i did instead, i added 5 inches of deep sand in my sump. I orderd Bactive8 , it only has heterotrophic bacteria, thats what you need for nitrate reduction naturally , what it does , it consumes the nitrates and phosphate and it will starve the dino for you. I would also only feed mysis for the whole month, dont let the nitrate to go down . For my tank i dont use any gfo or rowa, bc at the end they all leach somthing or absorb trace elements. I also stopped using any amino acids and not carbon dosing . Ive tried vodka or vinegar in the past , it does work but your also feeding the bad guys. For carbon i use bacto energy from Fauna marine. 5-10 drops every other day. My nitrates are stable 15-20 and i do dose phosphate. In my sump i use red pompom algea, its not so aggressive when it comes to control the nutrient. Thats why i dont like cheato . Cheato is so agressive , it pretty much its like a sponge , streeps out all the nitrate and phosphate so quickly and once it doesn’t have correct level of nitrate and phos it just dies in matter of a day . Also keep in mind for red field ratio, dont leave too much gap between nitrate and phosphate. Too much info Lol. Keep up the good work. Thanks for the video. You got this 😍
@ yes any kind of white media will leach out Al, even ceramic media. I wouldnt also use any phophate remover containing lanthanum. In fact I dont use any gfos or rowas neither. They all leach out or bind important trace elements . You need specific trace element so your good guys bacteria can function and out compete the bad guys. I use red pom pom algea in my sump. And 5-7 inches of deep sand in the sump for Heterotrophic bacteria for nitrate reduction. Bactive 8 has only these typs of bacteria. I wouldnt also use any amino acids . I found out that dino or the any bad guys consume lots of amino acids. Also im not sure what you use for carbon dosing, i would stop any short chain carbon dosing like suger, vodka, vinger. I use bacto balance 5-10 drops every other day in my 120g. Also dont forget the red field ratio. Too much nitrate , low phos causes cyno, low nitrate high phos causes dinos. In fact i dose phos to my tank to balance out the ratio. Believe it or not i check for phos every day sometimes twice a day. Also check your food. Believe or not i only feed mysic to my fish. I always rinse it with fresh water before feeding. I dont feed my corals at all. All coral food contain so much phosphate in them. In my opinion coral only consume bacteria. Thats why i use long chain carbon dosing . So naturally phosphate and nitrate are getting low. If nitrates and phos are climbing up that means not is getting consumed, or if its getting lowerd its beacuse bad guys are consuming them , thats why we get dino’s.
@@Saltyrootsjax polyplab genesis bricks don't leach aluminum. I've done monthly icp tests and no aluminum.
@ also please dont add Uv, Uv doesn’t discriminate, it will also kill the good guys. Also some dino’s are uv resistant. You cant get rid of dino , you can only control them. Also add some carbon in the sump, dinos are not bad when they’re alive but once whole bunch of them die with all the stuff that your doing, they will realese lots of toxins. Everyone says not to do water change , I’d say do a water change 10 to 15 percent every day. The goal is to keep the corals alive while battling this issue. Go slow with what ever your doing, small water changes , and slowly bring the phos down . See , thats why rowa phos , if you put too much , its gonna Streep out the phos . Thats why i choose the red algea in my sump over cheato. Cheato is so agressive and once it streeps out the nitrate and phos , it will start melting , and its so hard to remove it. And when you look at the cheato , you think its alive, but its actully dead. And its gonna realease all the nitrate and phos to the water, then here we go , dinos are back
Add a UV sterilizer to kill the free floating Dinos
@@PassionateReef I have a 25 watt, likely not enough power. Although I have the sand dwelling type I know some still will go into the water column so thinking about temporarily re plumbing the UV from the sump to pull directly from the display then back to the display.
Tank looks light on both fish, coral and CuC! Throw some conches in the tank, lots and lots of pods and feed!!! Not sure what you’re using for nutrient extraction but clearly it’s too much…
5:30 - damn dude don’t use GFO, let the phosphate fall naturally, your going from one extreme to another every couple of days!
Ps - Best thing I did was to add amphipods, they exploded during my dino, GHA period and they ended it in just a few days.
Remove the sand/ increase temp to 83/ water change and stop dosing nitrates/phosphates
UV sterilizer.
@@DaltonReefing I need to move mine up from the sump to the display.
@ I have a Pentair 40 watt UV sterilizer on my 112 gallon. It’s massive for that size tank but any signs of trouble like Dino’s or Ich they are toast when I turn it on. I turn it off when there is no signs of unwanted pests.
@@DaltonReefing I used to have that exact one on an old tank, and I miss it. Unfortunately sold that one. Running the Aqua Ultraviolet 25 watt now which is probably a little small for my tank.
I personally would stop making all of the changes. How would you know what's working? Why not just buy two dosing pumps and dial in your nitrates and phosphates? When you add all of these various elements, you lose a large degree of control. I would just slow down personally. I'm by no means an expert like almost everyone else here, lol, but seriously, just get it stable and then work from there.
I have a 15g tank that I dose 1m of neophos via pump each day. I tested daily and figured out my daily consumption, and now my tank sits right at .03. Just get the tank stable and slow down.
If you were using uv esterizer you would already be done with dino
@@danielmartins754 I do have an aqua ultraviolet UV. Unfortunately, the effectiveness of UV largely depends on the type of Dino you have. Prorocentrum, what I have, stays on the sand and doesn’t go into the water column, making the UV not as effective. That said, I know it does still help regardless. Mine is a little undersized tho.
contre les dino GROS UV plus filtre sur silicate plus mettre bactérie
bac trop pauvre plus pierre morte apporte de la dino
just get a UV
@@LukeGreen_ I have one. But unfortunately this type of Dino is sand dwelling and doesn’t go into the water column so UV isn’t as effective as it is with other types. I may try moving the UV from the sump up to the display though.
@@SaltyrootsjaxAs long as the UV is after your mechanical filtration you are fine. Water is water, whether it passes thru the sump or not.
You probably know that diff organisms require diff length of exposure to UV to kill them. 25 watts should treat 150 gallons at 233gph. If your pump is pushing more volume than that, you need to reduce it.
Just use Dino x
Does that work? That is my next option.
@ it worked for me I used it about 2 years ago
@ I’ll have to give it a try. I’m currently dosing water glass.
The UV wand from 3DReefing is what allowed me to finally keep SCA dinos under control although they are still visible under the microscope. I also did generous doses of phyto and some light carbon dosing at night to keep the bacteria flourishing. AF Life Source mud also seems to help. I hope we all become dino free in 2025.
Lots frustration and waste of money when you don’t know how to reef.
You're trying to many things to quickly. I would have gotten a uv light and use microbacter 7 slowly increase nutrients and maybe buy a few pieces of ocean live rock as last resort. You're shocking the hell out of your system.