You're 100% correct, you can just use the DC Offset feature on the 500.1 and it'll automatically turn on when it sees a signal. I used the remote line because it gives me a super easy way to disable the subwoofer in order to run the 200.4's Auto EQ. Once the trim panels are back on it's going to be practically impossible to reach the 500.1. By the way... great job on the plug-n-play kits , makes the whole project MUCH easier than it would have been otherwise. 👍
If you are just installing this amp and sub would there be a need for your plug and play harness? The amp would see power from the 12v power wire right?
Well done! This was a huge amount of work, no doubt compounded by having to record it all. I gained a ton of valuable knowledge watching this, much of which I am sure will be put to good use when I install the sub in my soon-to-arrive 2023 Black Diamond with the subwoofer delete. Thanks for posting this!
Thanks so much Brian for posting this video! I just re-re-watched the sections on removing trim pieces and the subwoofer panel, and your hard work saved me a ton of time. I have a 2-door Big Bend, to which I'd added a subwoofer, and that panel would often buzz or rattle. I replaced the crappy 2-piece fasteners, as Ford specified in their TSB (23-2241), and added some thin washers to "snug" them in place. Problem solved! I owe you a cold one.
hopefully you did a sound treatment after all the hard work...thanks for sharing. I have a 2019 xt4 not much info is out there and I'm envious of the bronco community... very resourceful
Suggest adding sound deadening to the trunk area and covering as much as the sub box as you can will make a huge difference. Cabin road noise is greatly improved and the sub sounds more premium. Kicker sub is way better than factory and very affordable...
Dude, I so appreciate your honesty and humor! I love tinkering around with my Bronco, and just might avoid some responsibility to try this bass boost project out. Thanks for the great advice on the panel! ✌🏼
I sincerely appreciate your honest instructional videos. I've referenced them in the 6G forums and you've saved me a lot of time getting things popped off, installed, and popped back in. I do have a question. While I have the Kicker Key 200.4 (awesome upgrade), I'm wrestling with the Kicker Key 500.1 decision. My 23 Wildtrak has a factory sub. It is OK, but needs to be louder in the mix now that the Key is boosting everything up. Basically, the mix is too low for the sub, at least for me. I swapped out the stock sub for a Kicker 6.75", dual coil 4 ohm. It's quieter than before - likely due to the 4 ohm coils instead of 2 ohm coils. Now to the Q. I'm thinking of grabbing a signal from my front passenger kick speakers and running it into a non-DSP amp instead of the Kicker 500.1. A Kicker 46CXA4001 mono amp is about $100 less and has 400 Watts max. If has Hi and Lo inputs, crossover tweaking, etc. I think I would have to use a Hi to RCA out with remote wire to get this to mix well. I'm sure you thought of this. Curious looking back if you would suggest doing it this way - or sticking with the Key 500.1.
I'm not particularly pro-500.1. Granted I am happy with the amp, but truthfully the reason why I have it is because the 500.1 was on-sale when I was buying all my gear. There are _lots_ of amps that will work. And the factory sub amplifier in the back is fed via a low-level signal, so if you are swapping out your factory sub amp I would simply use the wiring already back there. I did not have that luxury because 2022 Broncos didn't have a subwoofer. But since you have a factory subwoofer already might as well save yourself a ton of headache ripping out trim panels, and just use the signal already back there.
I'm going to tackle replacing my fake amp and sub soonish in my '23. Probably just go the Fusion amp and Kicker 6.75 route. Good seeing the trim removal.
I have a 22 Bronco wild track I have a subwoofer that works. I know this because in audio settings I set it to get a deep Bass sound and it got to the point that the rear was rattling and I had to open up the panel and tighten a couple of bolt's
So, ordered a plug and play kit recently and the remote line now seems to go to the acm. Reading through the manuals for the kicker keys my understanding is that in your case the 500 is going to turn on the 200, and in my case, hopefully the head unit will turn on the 200. Unless I'm miss reading how the rem functions on the kicker keys, which is quite possible. Though I believe you installed the 200 first, so with the first switch in the down position the amp will turn on in any configuration, assuming you had it in the first position.
The remote line on the 200.4 can either accept an input to turn on the amp, or be used to output a remote trigger to other amps. In my case the 200.4 itself is turning on when it senses an input from the vehicle, and I am using the remote line as an output to turn on the 500.1 amplifier. I don't know what the new kits look like. My kit was the older kits that "stole" its power from the factory ACM power line, but the newer kits require you to wire it to a battery. So he may be wiring the remote line to the factory ACM power line, and using it to trigger the power on the 200.4?? Not sure.
I just received my 2023 Bronco and I have been prepping to do the overhaul of my speakers and your videos have been great. One question I have is if you had the 2023 with the sub delete would I still need to run two subwoofers. I am adding the Kicker CWRT8 for the sub and I have KSC670 for the kicker panel, KSC40 for the panel and 6.5" kicker on the rear roll bar. I assume that i would need all the power possible but I was not sure if I should do a Kicker 47KEY500.1 in the front under the glove box and then run power for a Kicker 46CX!800.1T in the back just for the amp, i am not even sure if it is too big for the "sub enclosure" as i have not removed panels yet to start the project. Any advice would be great. I am going to post this on the G6 forum as well.
I installed the swing gate Sub on my 2022 Badlands. I'm not getting signal to the LOC and thus nothing to the sub. I dont have B&O system. I have a T harness to the factory head unit. Is this just a simple forscan adjustment?
Don't get me wrong... I love my Bronco. But yeah... they ain't worth anywhere close to $70,000. They're selling tens of thousands of them at $70,000 though... so... good for Ford I guess?
@@RagnarKon my dealer has a half dozen of them on the lot, customers that I backed out and they're selling at MSRP and I see plenty of people in the service drive with buyer's remorse that expected more but bought into the internet hype
@@ubeuonly Yeah thankfully the vehicle market is starting to come down, and the Bronco market is also coming down with it. My dealer also has several on the lot. Most of them are from people who ordered the vehicle, but can no longer afford it with interest rates being so high right now.
I don't know if you've seen all his videos on the audio install, but he basically redid everything so you might be out of context. He also figured it out for everyone else. If you decide to go this route, you might be able to skip a step here and there but from experience putting in new speakers, the Key 200.4, and swapping out subs ... it's pretty much what you have to do.
Hi man, thanks for the vids they are all very helpful. Hey so I have a 2023 with sub delete, can you confirm that the following is true: 1) I need forscan to set the driver rear pod and subwoofer to Speaker+sub? 2) After forscan setting is made the factory wiring that goes to the dummy amp should be active and usable as input to my sub amp? 3) Is there factory power to the rear sub and if so is it enough to power a larger sub amp? Thank you so much man
1. Yes 2. Yes, it will be a Low-level input for your amplifier. 3. It is a 12 gauge wire, consult the user manual for your amp. 12 gauge should be sufficient for a ~220 watt (or less) amp, so there is a decent chance you'll have to run a separate power wire.
I've been following your speaker upgrade series and I am putting together my shopping list. I was able to find the wiring harness for the Kicker 200.4 (Plug-N-Play 11-4) But I cannot find the wiring kit for the Kicker 500.1 (Plug-N-Play 14.4) any tips?
Traveling today and his website is impossible to navigate on mobile apparently. But I'll check tomorrow. He has been constantly changing the Kit numbers on his website and it's hard to keep up. I should probably just remove them from my videos' description so people don't buy the wrong kit.
@@RagnarKon From what I can tell, the 19-1 kit is an all inclusive kit for the 200.4 with the 500.1 solution that you did. Please correct me if I got that wrong. Drive safe and thanks for the response! Your Bronco videos are some of the best I've seen!
I did a similar install last fall. Besides figuring out how to cram a Kicker Hs10 powered sub behind that rear pax side panel, like you the bulkhead grommet took a huge amount of time to run the power wire though. Without having that sagittal view you had I thought the upper nub was a solid piece of rubber. So with terror and panic sweat I punched a scribe though inboard side of the bundle hoping not to snag a wire. In the end a successful install. I borrowed ideas from @battlebornbronco2330 for sub mounting but the area for mounting to a four door has less space.
That grommet was DEFINITELY the hardest part of the install so far. Considering Ford intended to make it easy for people accessorize their Broncos, I was shocked just how difficult they managed to make it.
@@cuttingboardsbyben9151 the HS10 will fit behind the panel where the B&O sub is, but it's a project on the 4 door Broncos. There is less space in the area on a 4 door compared to a 2 door. I used the videos @battlebornbronco2330 posted as a guide. He was able to use the included brackets with the HS10 to mount directly to the inner fender his 2 door. I had to make a mounting plate out of ABS plastic to attach to the inner fender and mount the hs10 to the mount plate, as well as hammer a depression into the inner fender for clearance for the upper forward corner of the HS10. Also trim some of the interior panel aft of the soft top mount area panel ( I have a hardtop). Have somebody hold a sandbag on the outer fender to absorb the forces of hammering . I may have disturbed some outer fender panel alignment when I was hammering, or my bronco wasn't assembled with perfect alignment , I dunno. its close enough. I didn't think to take photos while I was doing the install. I have an occasional bass rattle that needs looked into. When that time comes I'll get some photos. One rattle/buzz is inside the seatbelt take up reel. Not correctable I imagine.
Parts/equipment/etc. are in the description. For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums... Bronco6G: www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-installing-a-subwoofer-in-a-non-lux-bronco-kicker-key-500-1.72862/ Bronco Nation: thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-bronco-subwoofer-install-t.18082/
When I ordered, it was around $260. Quick Google search tells me it's now around $330, but you can find it for closer to $300. Prices vary all the time on parts due to supply/demand, so your mileage may vary.
Not sure why all these people tear the insides of their new Broncos apart. Wouldn’t it have just been easier and prolly cheaper in the long run to have just paid for the LUX package with the subwoofer? And have gotten all the other goodies along with it?
For me... the Lux package was an extra $4700, and there was literally nothing in it that I actually wanted. (There was actually several things I specifically did NOT want.) This audio upgrade cost me around $1200. So saved myself $3500 and got a sound system that is better than the Lux package. For others, they skipped the Lux package because it was heavily constrained and preventing their Broncos from getting built. Others skipped the Lux package because they knew they wanted to install aftermarket upgrades, and the Lux package comes with a bunch of extra electronics and sensors that would get in the way of those upgrades. So it all depends on what you need/want.
The Lux system is far from "Luxury". But it depends on what you like. I've heard this package in a couple of different Broncs and the system doesn't match up to my 7 speaker system after the Key 200.4 upgrade and speaker swap. In fact, it is terribly underwhelming. But I like it loud, full, warm, with punchy bass. If jamming music isn't near the top of your list while exploring, then I wouldn't recommend it. For me, it was the 2nd mod to perform.
You do not need a remote wire connected on the 500.1 when using my harness
You're 100% correct, you can just use the DC Offset feature on the 500.1 and it'll automatically turn on when it sees a signal.
I used the remote line because it gives me a super easy way to disable the subwoofer in order to run the 200.4's Auto EQ. Once the trim panels are back on it's going to be practically impossible to reach the 500.1.
By the way... great job on the plug-n-play kits , makes the whole project MUCH easier than it would have been otherwise. 👍
@@RagnarKon no problem . I am trying to offer Manny options for the bronco owners
If you are just installing this amp and sub would there be a need for your plug and play harness? The amp would see power from the 12v power wire right?
Well done! This was a huge amount of work, no doubt compounded by having to record it all. I gained a ton of valuable knowledge watching this, much of which I am sure will be put to good use when I install the sub in my soon-to-arrive 2023 Black Diamond with the subwoofer delete. Thanks for posting this!
Thanks so much Brian for posting this video! I just re-re-watched the sections on removing trim pieces and the subwoofer panel, and your hard work saved me a ton of time.
I have a 2-door Big Bend, to which I'd added a subwoofer, and that panel would often buzz or rattle. I replaced the crappy 2-piece fasteners, as Ford specified in their TSB (23-2241), and added some thin washers to "snug" them in place. Problem solved! I owe you a cold one.
hopefully you did a sound treatment after all the hard work...thanks for sharing. I have a 2019 xt4 not much info is out there and I'm envious of the bronco community... very resourceful
Nice to put a face to all the chats we’ve had in Tim Bartz’s Livestreams.
this video was fantastic. The knowledge you pertain is so helpful for us. Especially in my case having the 2023. Thank you sir.
Suggest adding sound deadening to the trunk area and covering as much as the sub box as you can will make a huge difference. Cabin road noise is greatly improved and the sub sounds more premium. Kicker sub is way better than factory and very affordable...
Dude, I so appreciate your honesty and humor! I love tinkering around with my Bronco, and just might avoid some responsibility to try this bass boost project out. Thanks for the great advice on the panel! ✌🏼
Thanks for the tip my 23 is hollow in the sub w area…was curious if the harness was there 😃 u saved me plenty of time tearing it apart thank you
I sincerely appreciate your honest instructional videos. I've referenced them in the 6G forums and you've saved me a lot of time getting things popped off, installed, and popped back in. I do have a question. While I have the Kicker Key 200.4 (awesome upgrade), I'm wrestling with the Kicker Key 500.1 decision. My 23 Wildtrak has a factory sub. It is OK, but needs to be louder in the mix now that the Key is boosting everything up. Basically, the mix is too low for the sub, at least for me. I swapped out the stock sub for a Kicker 6.75", dual coil 4 ohm. It's quieter than before - likely due to the 4 ohm coils instead of 2 ohm coils. Now to the Q. I'm thinking of grabbing a signal from my front passenger kick speakers and running it into a non-DSP amp instead of the Kicker 500.1. A Kicker 46CXA4001 mono amp is about $100 less and has 400 Watts max. If has Hi and Lo inputs, crossover tweaking, etc. I think I would have to use a Hi to RCA out with remote wire to get this to mix well. I'm sure you thought of this. Curious looking back if you would suggest doing it this way - or sticking with the Key 500.1.
I'm not particularly pro-500.1. Granted I am happy with the amp, but truthfully the reason why I have it is because the 500.1 was on-sale when I was buying all my gear. There are _lots_ of amps that will work.
And the factory sub amplifier in the back is fed via a low-level signal, so if you are swapping out your factory sub amp I would simply use the wiring already back there. I did not have that luxury because 2022 Broncos didn't have a subwoofer. But since you have a factory subwoofer already might as well save yourself a ton of headache ripping out trim panels, and just use the signal already back there.
Thank you! Your videos were very helpful.
I did this exact same thing with a new panel, I did get the kicker comp rt installed because factory sub is like paper
I'm going to tackle replacing my fake amp and sub soonish in my '23. Probably just go the Fusion amp and Kicker 6.75 route.
Good seeing the trim removal.
I can’t figure it out how to turn it on with for scan. If you do what do I got to do?
I have a 22 Bronco wild track I have a subwoofer that works. I know this because in audio settings I set it to get a deep Bass sound and it got to the point that the rear was rattling and I had to open up the panel and tighten a couple of bolt's
You have the Lux package with the B&O system, which has always shipped with a functioning subwoofer.
Nice Work Mr
So, ordered a plug and play kit recently and the remote line now seems to go to the acm. Reading through the manuals for the kicker keys my understanding is that in your case the 500 is going to turn on the 200, and in my case, hopefully the head unit will turn on the 200. Unless I'm miss reading how the rem functions on the kicker keys, which is quite possible. Though I believe you installed the 200 first, so with the first switch in the down position the amp will turn on in any configuration, assuming you had it in the first position.
The remote line on the 200.4 can either accept an input to turn on the amp, or be used to output a remote trigger to other amps. In my case the 200.4 itself is turning on when it senses an input from the vehicle, and I am using the remote line as an output to turn on the 500.1 amplifier.
I don't know what the new kits look like. My kit was the older kits that "stole" its power from the factory ACM power line, but the newer kits require you to wire it to a battery. So he may be wiring the remote line to the factory ACM power line, and using it to trigger the power on the 200.4?? Not sure.
Good stuff🎉
I just received my 2023 Bronco and I have been prepping to do the overhaul of my speakers and your videos have been great. One question I have is if you had the 2023 with the sub delete would I still need to run two subwoofers. I am adding the Kicker CWRT8 for the sub and I have KSC670 for the kicker panel, KSC40 for the panel and 6.5" kicker on the rear roll bar. I assume that i would need all the power possible but I was not sure if I should do a Kicker 47KEY500.1 in the front under the glove box and then run power for a Kicker 46CX!800.1T in the back just for the amp, i am not even sure if it is too big for the "sub enclosure" as i have not removed panels yet to start the project. Any advice would be great. I am going to post this on the G6 forum as well.
Quick question….so, for a 2023 bronco with a working sub all we have to do is what you did in the previous video and skip this video? -Thank you.
Yup.
All depends what you want to do.
You mention the signal cable was installed a few videos ago, what is the title of the video?
I installed the swing gate Sub on my 2022 Badlands. I'm not getting signal to the LOC and thus nothing to the sub. I dont have B&O system. I have a T harness to the factory head unit. Is this just a simple forscan adjustment?
Can you help me with my speaker pods. I installed 61/2 and still can't hear them. I did the forscan as well.
Bronco owner's need a support group more than they need a forum😂 50 to $70,000 for a cheap plastic Lego vehicle
Don't get me wrong... I love my Bronco. But yeah... they ain't worth anywhere close to $70,000.
They're selling tens of thousands of them at $70,000 though... so... good for Ford I guess?
@@RagnarKon my dealer has a half dozen of them on the lot, customers that I backed out and they're selling at MSRP and I see plenty of people in the service drive with buyer's remorse that expected more but bought into the internet hype
@@ubeuonly Yeah thankfully the vehicle market is starting to come down, and the Bronco market is also coming down with it.
My dealer also has several on the lot. Most of them are from people who ordered the vehicle, but can no longer afford it with interest rates being so high right now.
Wow Overkill on taking things apart
I don't know if you've seen all his videos on the audio install, but he basically redid everything so you might be out of context. He also figured it out for everyone else. If you decide to go this route, you might be able to skip a step here and there but from experience putting in new speakers, the Key 200.4, and swapping out subs ... it's pretty much what you have to do.
Nice video…
Hi man, thanks for the vids they are all very helpful. Hey so I have a 2023 with sub delete, can you confirm that the following is true:
1) I need forscan to set the driver rear pod and subwoofer to Speaker+sub?
2) After forscan setting is made the factory wiring that goes to the dummy amp should be active and usable as input to my sub amp?
3) Is there factory power to the rear sub and if so is it enough to power a larger sub amp?
Thank you so much man
1. Yes
2. Yes, it will be a Low-level input for your amplifier.
3. It is a 12 gauge wire, consult the user manual for your amp. 12 gauge should be sufficient for a ~220 watt (or less) amp, so there is a decent chance you'll have to run a separate power wire.
Will this work with a 2022 B&O? Do I need an amp? Please help!
Do you have the number for the trim panel you ordered?? I broke the speaker grill on mine.. Propane tank tipped and cracked it..
Yup! I have all of the parts listed in the video description.
I've been following your speaker upgrade series and I am putting together my shopping list. I was able to find the wiring harness for the Kicker 200.4 (Plug-N-Play 11-4) But I cannot find the wiring kit for the Kicker 500.1 (Plug-N-Play 14.4) any tips?
Traveling today and his website is impossible to navigate on mobile apparently. But I'll check tomorrow.
He has been constantly changing the Kit numbers on his website and it's hard to keep up. I should probably just remove them from my videos' description so people don't buy the wrong kit.
@@RagnarKon From what I can tell, the 19-1 kit is an all inclusive kit for the 200.4 with the 500.1 solution that you did. Please correct me if I got that wrong. Drive safe and thanks for the response! Your Bronco videos are some of the best I've seen!
@@Jason33w Just looked it up. You are correct!! It is kit 19-1. (Or kit 19 if you also want to buy the amps.)
@@RagnarKon Thanks for the assist! I really dig your videos. I have a 2022 4-door 2.3, manual Big Bend and I love it!
I did a similar install last fall. Besides figuring out how to cram a Kicker Hs10 powered sub behind that rear pax side panel, like you the bulkhead grommet took a huge amount of time to run the power wire though. Without having that sagittal view you had I thought the upper nub was a solid piece of rubber. So with terror and panic sweat I punched a scribe though inboard side of the bundle hoping not to snag a wire. In the end a successful install. I borrowed ideas from @battlebornbronco2330 for sub mounting but the area for mounting to a four door has less space.
That grommet was DEFINITELY the hardest part of the install so far. Considering Ford intended to make it easy for people accessorize their Broncos, I was shocked just how difficult they managed to make it.
Triamx, were you able to fit a hs10 self amp sub in the same area that the factory BnO sub is located?
@@cuttingboardsbyben9151 the HS10 will fit behind the panel where the B&O sub is, but it's a project on the 4 door Broncos. There is less space in the area on a 4 door compared to a 2 door. I used the videos @battlebornbronco2330 posted as a guide. He was able to use the included brackets with the HS10 to mount directly to the inner fender his 2 door. I had to make a mounting plate out of ABS plastic to attach to the inner fender and mount the hs10 to the mount plate, as well as hammer a depression into the inner fender for clearance for the upper forward corner of the HS10. Also trim some of the interior panel aft of the soft top mount area panel ( I have a hardtop). Have somebody hold a sandbag on the outer fender to absorb the forces of hammering . I may have disturbed some outer fender panel alignment when I was hammering, or my bronco wasn't assembled with perfect alignment , I dunno. its close enough. I didn't think to take photos while I was doing the install. I have an occasional bass rattle that needs looked into. When that time comes I'll get some photos. One rattle/buzz is inside the seatbelt take up reel. Not correctable I imagine.
Did you wire the 8” Kicker sub woofer parallel or series?
Parallel.
Had to made some modifications to the enclosure itself-video below:
ua-cam.com/video/u7_i-NaC_Hg/v-deo.html
So in the 22 with out the Sub from the factory is the plug there for the BO sub or do you still need to install and amp and all?
2021 and 2022 Broncos with the standard base audio system (non-Lux package) get nothing for the subwoofer. You have to run all the cables yourself.
Never mind I found it.
How does it sound? Good deep base?
the complete overhaul is just a tad beyond the aforementioned "Ford Bronco Subwoofer Install", so i would think so
Parts/equipment/etc. are in the description.
For those who want to join the discussion on the Bronco forums...
Bronco6G:
www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-installing-a-subwoofer-in-a-non-lux-bronco-kicker-key-500-1.72862/
Bronco Nation:
thebronconation.com/bronco-how-to-n.141/how-to-bronco-subwoofer-install-t.18082/
How much was the B&O sub?
When I ordered, it was around $260. Quick Google search tells me it's now around $330, but you can find it for closer to $300.
Prices vary all the time on parts due to supply/demand, so your mileage may vary.
What size is the sub? 8in or 10in?
It's _just_ shy of 8 in. Approximately 7¾ in.
You can fit a 8 in. sub in the housing with some modifications.
The popular choice is the Kicker Comp RT 8". Most subs will require removing some material that projects outward around the opening.
Not sure why all these people tear the insides of their new Broncos apart. Wouldn’t it have just been easier and prolly cheaper in the long run to have just paid for the LUX package with the subwoofer? And have gotten all the other goodies along with it?
For me... the Lux package was an extra $4700, and there was literally nothing in it that I actually wanted. (There was actually several things I specifically did NOT want.) This audio upgrade cost me around $1200. So saved myself $3500 and got a sound system that is better than the Lux package.
For others, they skipped the Lux package because it was heavily constrained and preventing their Broncos from getting built.
Others skipped the Lux package because they knew they wanted to install aftermarket upgrades, and the Lux package comes with a bunch of extra electronics and sensors that would get in the way of those upgrades.
So it all depends on what you need/want.
I have the lux package but am still considering an audio upgrade, the B & O system is a bit disappointing , I’m not even a big audio expert at all
The Lux system is far from "Luxury". But it depends on what you like. I've heard this package in a couple of different Broncs and the system doesn't match up to my 7 speaker system after the Key 200.4 upgrade and speaker swap. In fact, it is terribly underwhelming. But I like it loud, full, warm, with punchy bass. If jamming music isn't near the top of your list while exploring, then I wouldn't recommend it. For me, it was the 2nd mod to perform.
I have the lux in my BRaptor and im damn near 5k into my audio upgrade.
I could have built the whole bronco in the time he took. Very simple project on cheaply built vehicle