Project Jeep is ALIVE! Jeep Wrangler YJ 4.0
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- Опубліковано 12 вер 2024
- Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Parts Cannon!! Can it ...
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 • Frustrating Diagnosis!...
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 • Razor Sharp Gears!! NO...
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ • Smallest Shaft Ever! F...
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler • Exhausting! Project Je...
Part 7: COST ME BIGTIME! OOPS! Limited Slip Differential! DANA 35 Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 YJ • COST ME BIGTIME! OOPS!...
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! • Old Jeeps Die HARD! Th...
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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PASSENGER SIDE SEAL: Yes, you DO have to remove the locker in order to service the seal, but it's actually super easy (barely an inconvenience) because once you get in there, you just use the same seal driver you did on the driver side.
You win the internet for the Pitch Meeting reference. Replacing seals is TIGHT!
@@gridlore Yeah yeah yeah!!!
You will have to get off Rays back about that seal
@@Rekuzan You can get ALL THE WAY off his back for not changing it.
This is awesome lmao. I love the pitch meeting videos. His "first guy to ever" videos are pretty good too, but pitch meetings are some of the funniest shit I've ever seen.
Was weird when I thought “Why doesn’t Ray fold the wire coat hanger in two to make it stronger”… and Ray complied… instantly. Cue jaw dropping.
Ha ha! Hypothetical
Just sit in a rocking chair and digest that.
My exact same experience! I had just finished saying out loud, "double it . . ." when he proceeds to do so. 😛
I am so gonna miss project jeep when she is done. I am not a mechanic but I do really enjoy watching everything you do, it must be very satisfying to take a vehicle apart, put new components in, put it all back together and be able to drive it with no noises an no problems! Awesome ray!!!
I always saw that bearing presser tool in my grandpa's tool box for freaking ever, and I never asked him what it was for. Thanks Ray
That piece on the axle is called the “center axle disconnect” it is just a vacuum diaphragm that slides that ring over to lock the two half shafts together when you shift into 4 wheel drive. It’s very simple to remove/replace. There’s just a gasket behind that plate with the 4 bolts. The seal is in the axle tube there because that ring and fork need gear oil from the differential to stay lubricated.
The diff seal on the passenger side is not at the pumpkin, it goes at the CAD. This allows the fluid to lubricate the CAD. Ah, but I see you are figuring it out. That seal really sucks to replace!
Yes it is. Was wondering if that tool he used for the drivers side would work.
I have to replace that diff side axle seal on my 98 Ram....I don't see THAT happening. I just park it leaning TOWARDS the curb!
I used a piece of all thread and "machined" out a tool with a chunk of 1/4" metal. run the allthread thru the metal install tool out to the end of the axle and drew it in. Took longer to grind down the metal to make the tool than it did to install.
That is one poorly designed front axle, not only are the seals a pain to replace but the axle tubes are a mud, water, and road salt trap. Plus the fill port is just a rubber plug.👎 I'm glad Ray did this though, now I know to steer clear of these.
@@brianallen9810 just like every Dodge truck I've owned since 1970! And I've owned a LOT of them! Never had a single diff problem aside from a seal or 2.
I think from the channel responses the subscribers and valued viewers are really loving the work you are doing in saving this iconic piece of history from the crusher. Wrangler is absolutely the right name given how much of a fight this lovely old girl sometimes gives you. Wife Unit/Whiskey Uniform channel is also a great new additional channel Ray highlighting the teamwork and background help you enjoy from WU. X Files editing for the litle ones is hilariously brilliant. You should be really proud on how you all have built this channel in such a short time.
Amen...
Hey Ray, that's not a 4WD 'locker,' that's the front axle disconnect. You'll want to go back in there. It's less agonizing than you think. Four bolts, gives you a big window, just pull the solenoid and the engagement arm as a single unit (easy with the axle out,) pop the seal in same as you did in the diff, add some RTV or gasket tack to the crappy cork, and you're done. It has to be done outer halfshaft out though because you need the halfshaft ring out to do the seal. You DEFINITELY want to get in there because it's a major failure point on these. The cork gasket (JUNK) loves to leak, letting water in, and the oil seal is on the OUTSIDE of the disconnect. So those leaks get into the shiny new diff. Not good!
Denny's Driveshaft has you covered. Replace the pads (621059 "clip for shift fork",) both E-clips (620979 and 621097,) and the oil seal (you may have the wrong one - there's an 84-86 and an 87-94.) Costs about $10. For everything. Those E-clips are very important because they ARE single use. But again: add gasket tack or RTV to the cork gasket! Super light because it serves a spacing function, but also it loves to leak. This owner clearly loves to offroad and mud it, and that's the big weak point in the front axle for water intrusion. Be super careful with the diaphragm though - that's a $160+ kit if you need to replace it!
As folks have mentioned, there's a special tool for that seal. Pfft, screw that. Grab yourself something like a wobbly C-clamp, some flat metal, and you can do the math. ;)
I thought those plastic caps on the drag link were supposed to come off before installation, they were only on for protection during shipping that's why the threads didn't protrude the castle nut, and the cotter pin didn't fit.
It looks like that cap is jamming on the grease fitting.
I thought the same.... Ray?
I noticed the same thing
Living up north I nearly weep tears of joy when hub assemblies come out that easily. The last one was so bad I had to remove the suspension knuckle.
lol ty for ur work :>
Michigan here - had a 2003 Highlander that needed suspension work. I spent 5 hours beating heating and impacting. Family member came over with his mobile semi repair truck and broke out some giant tools (and he’s like 6 foot 7 so automatically a lot more force there than me). Dude put the longest breaker bar I’ve ever seen and was lifting himself off the ground trying to break something loose. It never did get replaced.
We sold that Highlander like a week later disclosing the suspension issue we couldn’t fix. The guy pulled the engine and trans and whatnot and scrapped the vehicle. Because he couldn’t get it apart either….
@Matt Stephens I got so I would automatically get my torches, and air hammer out and just have them in reach. I'd sure love to meet the engineer that decided you need to have aluminum suspension knuckles with steel hub assemblies.
@@wolfc7280 yeah no issues with dissimilar metal there at all….
I'm glad you addressed the final drive gear ratio versus oversize tires. Many of us wanted to know how the speedometer would be handled. The new gear ratio will be closer to matching the original speedometer to the tires.
Came here to ask about the speedo. I'm ignorant with these things.
The other option, would be to change the plastic or brass speedo gear ⚙️ to compensate ratio
But honestly, where we're going we won't need speedometers. We all know it in our heart of hearts.
The combined effect of wheel size and gear ratio leaves the speedo reading 4% under. Not a big deal.
So what was the gear set you changed to? I heard you say it started at 3.07 but never heard what you changed it to.... 4.10? Lower?
I think that new exhaust sounds pretty nice.
You sure your not building this for Rainman Ray's Garage?? A ton of parts , fairly good looking vehicle!! 👌 Looks like it would make a good parts runner for you or the Wife Unit!! Hahaha....... Cheers Ray!!
Good video!!
While your there take a peek a the steering box to frame, the frame rots outor tears. If you catch it early drill the end of the cracks weld them up. If it's rotted you can cut and weld a new inner and outer in with the spacers.
Definitely, if the vehicle is up North and rust belts.
Not to much where he's at
@@W3BZSL1NG3R I lived in Florida for over 50 years. Born and raised there. I have had a lot of jeeps. The frame underneath the steering box mud and water gets trapped, causing wear on the paint and rust to develop. It's nat a if but a when. The undercoating is not in that area. Since it's applied after the box is in. It's a jeep thing.
“Force multipliers” isn’t a phrase often heard outside of the military. 👍🏼
My family has used the phrase for generations.
But then again we have had a lot in the military. I just grew up knowing the phrase so I use it too.
I think Rays use of the phrase is quite different than ours lol although technically same thing just different
NASA uses the name for tools used to work on the Hubble Space Telescope. They are socket drivers that have a planetary gearset system that boosts their torque output while minimizing the amount of force that a spacewalking astronaut has to put into the tool.
@@spaceflight1019 yeah I saw them use those in their film studio before
@@KendrasEdge757 We we're listening to the STS-125 mission in the shop and when one of the astronauts asked for a "torque enhancer" and the other one asked "3 or 6 foot?" one of the guys believed that he was slipping a pipe over the end of the wrench.
Bought a '95 wrangler just after I enlisted back in 98. Such a fun little thing for a 18 year old sailor. Miss that girl.
Ray, you're having way too much fun! LOL
I absolutely LOVE working on suspensions of nearly any kind and being retired would seriously work for next to zip....I would however sandblast and paint everything making it look better than new!
I would do the same, but that's just the way I BEE's...
Thought the same. ☝️😁
Exposed frame rails and components. Definitely on personal vehicle.
I was hoping to see wheel bearing bolts cleaned up on wire wheel (bench grinder).
@@kcrowe8583 Yup, that's what I would have done! Hey, I'm ocd when it comes to making suspension purdy!
I was always told to tap the component while using a puller. Pressure and impact always worked better. That said, well done and good work.
At about half to three quarters of the weight you had on that ball joint, if you had a given it a tap then, it probably would have popped off....(no broken tool).
Project Jeep has been a good ride. Glad to see it live again. Hope you have a great day.
I find myself reflexively brushing off dirt every time I watch you work on project jeep... ye ha.
Lookes they drove the jeep into a mud bank the way mud was packed in the calibur.
I'd install a front propshaft too. Kinda makes that front LSD uhm... useless without it.
I understand about stopping somewhere, and I'm sure the wheel bearings are fine, but I would have stuck new brake pads on and either resurfaced or replaced the rotors as well while I had them in hand.
they make real nice aftermarket seals for the ends of the axle tubes so they won't load up with dirt and you can even grease them!
cheese is Etch Cries ... This bit you did about gears painting ... saved me hundreds of dollars!
Getting that project on the road and out your garage because now you need that effin lift because you are busy ... you are going up a learning curve. Love the content.
Sent you $5 canadian dollars cuz I love you like a brothe3r, dont ever change !
Hi Ray,
Love your videos..💪
But you forgot to remove a plastic-cap on one of the joints, before assembly.
Good luck finding out which one...😅
Greetings from Denmark! 🤘
Hi from Uk Ray 👋👍 great to see jeep on road again and massive win in my eye for the tasks and repairs carried out and sounded much healthier too mate 👌 awesome job ray 👍 maybe get some business cards or bumper stickers to grab random jobs and coolant leaks from passing trade 🤣 that ending wasn't a "" jeep thing "" it was a "" DODGE/RAM THING "" 👌🤣🤣🤣 thanks for your time be safe and see you soon 👍 👋
Fantastic to see project jeep on the road well done Ray you deserve a medal for your effort 🥇.
Ray making things better than new ! If I was the owner of that jeep I'd be extremely happy
That Jeep is in nice shape, I’m used to seeing them pretty rusty being from northern Ohio. The body and everything underneath looks great.
I’m not sure how you do it but it would be cool to see the costs involved in redirecting this thing. It wasn’t “cheap” but it’s done well. That’s the one thing I wish we saw on UA-cam is the costs involved on revitalizations. I’m working on a 71 f100 that was in a tree row for 30 years. It took 800 just to make it run and drive. It has another 2 grand in parts just to make it reliable (rock auto prices). I did a 2002 taurus last year and using only rock auto and buying cheapest parts imaginable I had $2000 in parts and a month of nights and weekends. Things add up quickly
Two suggestions from my experience. It is often easier to remove the pitman arm from the steering box if you need to remove all the linkage. Much better access for a puller. Secondly, when you use those horrible things that load the top of the ball joint/steering end, once you load it some, give the tapered fitting a bit of hammer (as you did with the LH outer tie rod end). It generally falls out due to the load from the tool. Bet your HF puller would not have broken that way. This has worked well for me over the last 53 years.
I really enjoy project videos.
You should make another T-shirt that says "Everything's A Hammer!" I'd go for one of those, since I've been known to use other objects for non-intended purposes in my shop. 3XLT, please.
Oh the old vacuum actuated locking half shafts on those old YJ's. There is a reason those went away. Hell lots of people got rid of the half shaft and just put a full length axle in there. But if memory serves, the axle seal is on the outside of that vacuum disconnect. And yes you have to open the disconnect to service it.
my old 1990 XJ had 4wd shift lock similar to that, actuated by vacuum. The oil from the front diff would lubricate it so yeah, that secondary seal is in the right place, and a right pain to replace lol.
Man, that was a worn out machine when you started! All you need is time, money, know how and a little elbow grease. That lift helps a lot too! The only thing I would have done different is to pressure wash the undercarriage prior to the teardown. Makes for a easier inspection and and more pleasant experience. That jeep has solid bones and much potential and I'd bet that test drive after was very satisfying! Good job!
Power wash or sand blast and some "Por 15" frame paint
🤟😁👍
Hello Ray, I'm a Truck Driver in Germany, not a mechanic and know next to nothing about mechanics, so i Love your videos, it shows me what a EXPERT Mechanic has to do. Keep your Brilliant work up, Thank you, Malcolm
Jeep do-le-do's 🔧 🔧 have an awesome day Ray! Keep up
The amazing work! You and the Family unit are amazing people!
Bought myself a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 a couple years ago as a daily driver, and it was anything but. Probably had it on the road for 30 days total, and it turned into a massive project.
Both heads rebuilt (with new valve springs/guides), new IAC, water pump, timing kit, power steering lines, steering gear (yes I torqued the Bolt of Death!), new coil springs, new shocks, brake pads and rotors... And for the first time in a year and a half it started yesterday, and DIDN'T stall while idling. Now I can finally start buttoning this thing up 😂
So grateful for all the content you post Ray. You absolutely made a difference contributing in your detailed troubleshooting and clear explanations of WHY you were doing things. Those why's made all the difference.
Yeah Cherokees aren't the best especially in the 2000s
I see it's had the much sought-after anti-roll bar delete option, to make cornering so much more fun!
I noticed that too but I cant say anything about it. My swaybar is disconnected about 1/2 the time.
I'm surprised the track bar hasn't been removed for maximum articulation.
@@jojothepopoman for a Jeep living in Florida, why would you need maximum articulation?
@@jojothepopoman Track bars on leaf sprung suspension are pants on head kind of special.
@@jeffkaupke3890 The Croom, Hardrock Offroad Park, The Swamp, Lazy Springs and BOH Tread Lightly.
Ray, you are so honest about what you do. Make a mistake, you own up to it. Like, on video. Admirable.
Pull the pin throw and duck lol. It’s so nice you have your own shop now. You’re more relaxed, the phone isn’t interrupting your videos seems so perfect it’s hard to remember it wasn’t that long ago you went running your own shop. This was meant to be.
Project Jeep is really schweet and the customer has chosen wisely. So has Ray with the challenge parts now installed 👊 miss my YJ and am sure this owner is going to Love this one now it's come back to life.
If you do much bearing work, a fry daddy with synthetic oil in it (higher scorch point) works well to heat up the bearings to slide onto shafts without setting up a press every time. I also made long punches out of rebar which is softer than puppy poop and has the grippy stripes on the outside for oily hands. It's cheap enough to bend as you need it to go around corners. Great videos.
Good idea 💡
When I used to race BMX
We used a Hotplate and candle wax for chains and bearings. Lot cleaner and less dirt.
Ray, I think you forgot the boot protector removal on the drag link/tie rod connection. And at the pitman arm.
My dad maintained his fleet of vehicles. The coat hanger was the go-to tool for retrieving axle stubs.
Knowing Ray it was probably a $40.00 snap -on tool # coat-hanger-1A .
Those castle nuts are actually slotted finished hex nuts... castle nuts have the top third of the hex rounded off so they do look like the tower on a castle... Ex fastener buyer. love the videos..
Project Jeep rolls again. And good morning, Ray.
I myself would have wire brushed and cleaned all the bolts with paraffin or break cleaner with them being so rusty but each to their own you do a great job when doing your repair it's very informational and enjoyable to watch and learn
I've become addicted to watching your channel at 2x the speed. You don't miss anything and the cadence of your voice is a perfect fit for it. 😂
omg - i just watched a minute or two in 2x speed - ray is funnier I agree..
Yup
I use 2x for all of youtube videos... Other then music 🎶 vids... 2x content consumption... 🤟😁👍
I needed this today lol. His vocabulary also plays perfectly in to it
The central axle disconnect that you were looking at is just the four bolts to remove. Quick and easy. Trust me, I'm a Dr. 😆
Here's a little tip I'm sure you know and forgot: if you twist a fastener backwards you can feel where the threads line up and avoid stripping stuff. That's what you need to do with plastic screws, it might help on some car parts too.
@2.20 These little challenges, got to love em. Great video Ray.
The other seal is inside the 4x4 actuator housing (i may be saying that wrong) that locks the half shaft and the passenger side axle. I had to replace mine in my 98 ram. Then i fast forward and see you found it. There's a special tool they use to install that one. It was a pain and I ended up making my own tool to do mine.
Yes, I replaced one on a YJ that I owned. I used a home made tool, all thread, nuts and washers. Worked out great.
@@ggazzara1115 ditto
Glad I seen the tie rod pusher failure. Now I know to cut off a short piece of 3/8 pipe and weld it in place to keep the threaded screw from walking to the side
There must presumably be a support bearing where the two shafts join to keep everything in line? I'd expect the seal to be outboard of that so the bearing is lubricated by the diff oil.
Wow, that's a huge difference in that short drive. When you did the first test drive, that poor baby was all over and shakey. Now, looks to me, brand new driveability, very smooth. Great job with this jeep Ray! You're awesome!!
Hey Ray from what I could find, DANA 50, 51 and 60 series front axles have (2)inner seals. As we would think. There may be something wrong with the seal recess in the axle itself.
It’s a Dana 30, seal is definitely in the middle of the tube. Makes sense, the lubricant can reach the 4x4 actuator and coupler
@@RainmanRaysRepairs don't forget that axel nut torque down. I'm sure you did it though.
i love the background music for the front diff install.
Numerically higher axle ratio gives you better acceleration, lower gas mileage, and more engine rpms than a lower one.
By the way, thanks for shouting out I Do Cars the other day. I've been really enjoying his channel.
Going to miss this project when it's done. Maybe if the owner brings it back for maintenance like oil changes there can be "multi point " inspections so we can see how it gets on.
This has been a great series.
The owner did not take care of it previously. You think they will change?
@@robertopenheimer1451 good chance it's a different owner
Had a 92 YJ with the 4 squirrels if furry for almost 20 years. Had it on 32s with 3" ProComp lift, 2.5" engine and body lift and a built flat pan.
Loved it till it died a miserable death when a Camero pulled out in front of me while I was traveling 65mph....
Rebuilt everything you are doing, hated that half shaft vacuum bit.
A good slip-yoke eliminator will make them rear u-joints last a lot longer.
And I fixed my glove box the same way that one was fixed... LOL, it's a jeep yj thing...🤣🤣
Easiest way to get that half shaft is using a magnet from the passenger side.
We have a 94. Glad I watch this channel.
ONLY ONE THING MISSING ... the front drive shaft
That's a technicality. It's weight reduction. Retired mechanic in Land Down Under. Maybe a uni joint or two needs replacing.
When I do this or watch another tech, I have to laugh at the people who say a mechanic or tech is "just a parts replacer anymore".
They sit in an armchair or behind a steering wheel . They don't get into jobs like this and when they do, a used unit gets installed.
I have to ask even, where did you get the seal installer tool?
Did you buy it? Borrow it? Or rent it? That's a dealer service kit tool and has often caused this work to go to dealer service in the past.
Nowadays, people have gotten deep into the 4 wheel drive parts of trucks and parts specialty companies service shops that specialize.
Nice to see it available, and you could show us.
Those inner seals are a rare problem. If water can get in?
That would be bad.
Most of the leaks I saw in a few decades were not repeatable, or leaked minimal.
If you weren't rebuilding, then you could let it be and keep it full every so often.
The seal is not in the middle of the axle housing. Its shaft needs lube for it's outboard end support or disconnect mechanism. As others have said.
Don't leave that right inner seal in there, for the long side.
If it's still in there, you need to go back in.
Replace it out where you showed us the disconnect cover, or leave it.
I would think inspecting the outer end on the right was worth it unless 4wd was seldom used and it was a city driver.
No moisture in the gearlube on teardown would be good to find, but dirt or debris could be anywhere trying to get in after disassy/assy.
It not that tough to do, but sealing it back up may take ingenuity if the only gasket available is cork.
Then you need to abide by the designs need to soak in and swell the cork.
Some guys use sealants because keeping water and dirt out is the thing.
I thought you left that inner right seal in there?
That's a no no.
The right tube is supplied lube by it spiralling down the right axle and running back from that tube.
The caliper would fit a lot easier if you clean the rust off the edge of the disk.
A damper is what you fitted, a dampener is a device to make things damp.
Ummm... /ponder
damp·en·er
/ˈdampənər/
noun
a thing that has a restraining or subduing effect.
damp·er
/ˈdampər/
a device for reducing mechanical vibration, in particular a shock absorber on a motor vehicle.
@@shuntawolf OK, you are right, but I have never seen that particular item labeled as a dampener :)
@@terryhayward7905 I'll be honest, my initial intent was to call you out on it, but after looking up the definitions of both words, and the application used, I guess it could be called either. Both seem, by definition, to be correct. hahaha... You see his vid the other day talking about cotter pins? Guess it all depends on where you're from as to what the ...accepted... usage of the word is huh?
@@shuntawolf So true, 2 countries divided by a common language.
I first heard Dampener used in Start Trek some years ago, and it made me cringe then :)
@@terryhayward7905 it's actually 99% of the time cultural misuse. Oxford and American dictionaries both use the same definition. That IS the proper term and to call it anything else makes you incorrect. America is really bad about that kind of thing. Somehow a word misuse grows in popularity and sticks around, people just accept it and never question it.
The way that the split pins in the tie rods and pitman arm were installed is the best and neatest way to install them.
Don’t you need limited slip additive along with oil in the diffs??
Not if you use gear oil with the LS additive already in there.
@Charles Bondy It would cost a fortune for 5 gallons of that,if they make it.The additive cost 12.00 dollars a pint.
I'm surprised and impressed you knew how to do all that diff work. I did that at UTI in the mid 90's and haven't done it since. Pretty cool to see it done again.
Rule to live by #72: If it has moving parts or you plan on using it more than once, don't buy it from Harbor Freight.
No Ray had the wrong adjustment on the tool ,did you see how far it was open when he started .
@@peterwill3699 that's irrelevant, it shouldn't have been bending.
29:26 “The shaft wasn’t going through the holes there, spread that out some, now it’ll fit”
This sentence can apply to more than just the pinion..
😂😂😂
The shock that you added to the steering is a damper, not a dampener. A damper helps prevent oscillation. A dampener makes things wet.
Sounds real nice Ray, superb work as always. I am so so glad I found your channel. I'm a bit of a female car nut that would love to work on cars but cant unfortunately 1) because of funds n no license [yet] & 2) I have pain disabilities so Im a bit limited but I can dream cant I lol
why do u only like the female cars? ^_^
@@outseeker because almost all autos have a female name. At least the ones that “I’ve” seen.
@@ToddAdams1234 haha :)
I enjoyed watching the front and rear diff rebuilds. You are very talented in the methods needed to get it right. They are a mystery to many but to those who know how to set pinion depth, backlash, etc., it's a talent on display - you are one to be praised for knowing. I find myself glued to watching. Thank you.
I think this Jeep sounds great! great video on the gears assembly, anyone know how you match gear ratios with tire sizes? have a great weekend yall
It's kinda like a bicycle or motor cycle. A bigger rear sprocket with increase low end torque and less top speed. While a smaller rear sprocket will give you a faster top speed but less low end grunt/pull/Torque.
Usually 1 tooth = 5mph +/-
Opposite with front sprocket and each tooth = 2 teeth aka 10mph.
I always go smaller on the rear for more top speed.
Because most motorcycles, ATV's have enough low end pull, to move/take off well..
Hope this helps in a way.
Cya,
W3BZ 🤟😁👍
And a taller tire will take more torque and distance to make 1 rotation. So a lower gear ratio would help take off acceleration/ torque
If it's just to correct the speedometer, there's a plastic/brass gear in Trans or instrument cluster to fix speedometer differences...
Ray, you are the doodledoo guy and that was a major attraction to your videos! Please get a shop phone where you doodledoo to the phone calls again! Honestly, it was a major attraction to your videos because it was pretty humorous the way you almost consistenlty did it. Please!
Hey Ray, I know that others have mentioned it in both this video and previous Project Jeep videos but have you remembered to change the speedo gear yet to match the new diff gearing and larger wheels / tyres?
idk the maths but isn't that why you change the gear ratio after adding several inches to the wheels? or that only made it worse?
@@outseeker no, he changed the diff gear ratio to allow for aftermarket limited slip diff.. The speedo gear is a different issue and at least based on what we've seen in the videos has yet to be addressed.
How does that work anyways? Something driven off the transmission output shaft with a changeable gearing set somewhere closer to the speedometer?
@@hot_wheelz changing the ratio in the diff will in turn change the rotation of the output shaft of the transmission in turn changing the speedo reading. He only needs to change the gear for the speedo if he didn't calculate for the rotational change to the wheel size. If he was leaving the stock tire size then the speedo would be off with the gear change.
Back in the 70's , whenever we got a speeding ticket we would change the speedo gear then take it to my buddy's shop who would certify that the speedometer was off . Take the certification to court and have the speeding ticket changed to improper equipment charge which was half the fine and no points on your driving record .
This is awsome to watch, im actually about to buy an 89 wrangler YJ and its awsome to see some of the more common problems
Can't wait to see what's next for the Jeep!
Weird that there is no sway bar, but there is still a track bar. Nobody keeps track bars on leaf spring YJs. Most people keep the sway bar but put a disconnect on it for offroading. And yes the seal on the passenger side is accessed from the vacuum actuator. Pretty easy to get to and replace.
Was that plastic cap supposed to be left on the Pittman arm ball joint at 49:28?, as the plastic cap wears and falls apart won't it cut up the rubber boot beneath it?
i aint no stickler but I am an apprentice tech. You said you’re gonna check backlash with a mic.. I was taught that a dial indicator is used for that and a mic is for part clearance measurement
I don't think he checked it with a dial indicator too,just by feel,haha.
love the vids always think you are having lots of fun ....glad to see your own business is evolving .....hoping lots of customers come to you ....joe
if you want to get rid of the axle disconnect a 93 to 97 grand cherokee axle is one piece and will fit in the passenger side . i did that on my 87 wrangler. after I broke the inner axle shaft I used what I had to "fix" it. It did leak oil though because I didn't put the seal in the differential.
Don't blame the tool when you use it incorrectly, the Harbour Freight would have worked had you used the correct pivot hole (the lower one). I face palmed the moment you started tuning it.
"Harbour Freigh" is just fancy name for Us ppl to not realize they're buying cheap chinesse cr*p
He didn't use it incorrectly. Even if he had used a different pivot hole it wouldn't have worked, it was bending. It shouldn't be bending. Using the other pivot hole would simply have caused it to bend sooner. Harbor freight tools are made from junk materials.
There is something I heard way back when, about your stopping somewhere. The joke went something like: "How do you get a million dollar car? Answer: You build it from spare parts." Sorry, if I already told this before. But to me it is good enough to be even repeated.
What! You edited out 1.5 hours of cursing, swearing and crying? Well for F#^&&*$#@$^ Sake thats why I watch these G%$%&*(&%$ Videos and you are cutting out the good stuff and replacing it with "B Roll" sigh...........
With plastic hangers taking over, it's good to build an arsenal of wire hangars for various purposes.
Ray you are a professional mechanic and your commentary is great you explain everything thourghly and I have been learning a lot. Love your channel and content.
The long side (the 2 piece) only seals at the central axle disconnect (CAD) you do a CAD Delete and replace the 2 piece axle with a later model 1 piece axle, 95 and later are better, then you will put a seal in the other side of the dif. a real nice mod that gets rid of one of the major weak points of that axle
Love how your channel has evolved. You gotta show the person seeing their jeep after it's done. Nice work Ray!!
I want to see him when he gets the bill. lol
That moped rider was the courier that you are supposed to take out before he gets to the drop off and report back to Ricardo to complete the mission.
Wire coat hangers seem to have an infinite number of uses,
At last. Someone who blues up and shims a diff after a rebuild. Congratulations Mr R, wifely unit and smaller units.
Can't tell you how much I am enjoying Project Jeep Ray... Learning a lot...
Get a hold of TJ passenger side front axle and get ride of the CAD, then you can put the seal in at the pumpkin and make a blank plate for the CAD
With all the mud in the calipers and axle tubes, this vehicle has done some real Jeep Things.
Nope. Ray forgot to paint the front diff cover. Gotta be consistent! Happiness follows. Shiny Jeep. 😆
Almost a new Jeep with all the parts. Good classic ride for far less than a new Jeep.,