hey cool this video hit on my birthday of that year. Hey man I apologize i'm bad with names. but i love your review and assembly and your cabinet build for this router table. it will very much be on my dream list. I just wish the crack shaft was a little longer or that the table was a little wider.
For the crank shaft, you can always get an extension and a coupling if you really need and for the longer table, you can always add fold down extension wings for those times when you really need the extra support but I've never needed a longer table or a longer crank. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Great choice for a router table! I have looked at them and played around with it in the store showroom. Excited to see you work with it. 👍🇨🇦 JessEm produces high quality tools.
Their entire line of tools really seems to be top notch. I have some serious expectations of this table and I hope it lives up to it. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show.
Just finished up watching your part 1 assy. on this until that up until now I knew little about. I will watch part 2 next. I'm intrigued with the DRO system for accuracy. Thanks for sharing this... Bill on the Hill, Vermont... :~)
Glad that you enjoyed part one of the show Bill. I have been pretty impressed with this unit since purchasing it and I am considering a review show in the near future. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
hi, kenny looks like its well enginerd . very well explaned ,with nice pace. im, sure lots of people will find the vid.realy helpfull .lignaror jack. england
That's my hope. There just aren't many assembly videos for this unit on the web and I hope that others will find it useful. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for the kind words.
Hi Kenny. I finally got to installing the router and digital router height gauge. My gauge has a grounding in cable factory attached to one of the thumb screws on the gold riser. The manual that came with it makes no mention of where to attach the other end, which has a 1/4” o-ring. I would have thought to attach it to the table’s power switch box. But there is no sign of a grounding post. I can’t imagine they expect it to be attached to an outlet electrical box. Puzzled also when I saw that your gauge had no grounding cable. Any thoughts on where I need to mount it, and still keep the table mobile?
Mine did not come with a grounding cable. I know that the digital gauges are very affected by static. I have to wonder if it is to connect the mounting bracket of the digital gauge to the metal frame of the router table. It's really the only thing I can think of right now. Sounds like you should contact JessEm on this one and see what they have to say about it. I'd be interested to hear their thoughts. I hope you enjoy your new router table. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great info Kenny, as I am looking at that same package or the Mast-R-Lift II Router Table Package. Why did you choose the Excel over the other one I mentioned... is there something I should consider between the two that you prefer? Greatly appreciate your time and knowledge!
I like the Mast-R-lift II package but I've had router tables before that required a crank to be inserted into the top of the table in order to raise or lower the motor housing. It seemed that I was constantly having to clean out the hole for the crank to be inserted. I liked the Excel package that had the crank on the side of the table, permanently installed and ready to use. That was really the selling point for me. You would be happy with either setup I believe as JessEm makes a fantastic product. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you so very much for the quick reply. I actually did hear you say some of that information in one of your later videos. I apologize for you having to repeat it :-) the only other question I would have is what somebody else had asked also, and that is: is there a significant difference between the incra clearsweep inserts that have the slits in them for seemingly better dust collection under to lift than without the slits in the ring? For example, if you're cutting a dado, how good is the dust collection straight under the router with it enclosed in a box compared to with and without the slits in the top ring. I know you don't have the slits, so how good is the dust collection straight under the router with a box in the setup that you have when doing a dado cut, say compared to not using any dust collection at all? I'm so very sorry I made this so long. I wouldn't even read it if I were you and saw something this long. I do hope I will get an answer from you though :-) Thanks again, Joey
@@Joey-bq4hu Regardless of how long a post is, I always read them and I do my best to reply to every comment on the channel. It's hard for me to give an opinion about the clearsweep inserts when I don't have any experience with them. I do know that my router table came with a dust collection shroud that connected to the bottom of the table and collects the dust directly from the edge of the bit. This actually does a pretty good job at containing and collecting the chips from routing and now that I have the table fully enclosed (build series to air soon on the show) it is even better. If you haven't already, I would suggest viewing the assembly video on my channel which will show the dust shroud and then the review on the channel which will demonstrate how the dust collection works. I'm sure that the clean sweep inserts would work even better as they would provide a downdraft table effect, collecting the dust from the top surface of the router table through the inserts instead of relying solely on the fence or under table collection. I can't see it being anything but good. I'm not sure if I answered your question or not, but I hope I've given you a little bit of an idea of what the dust collection is like on the JessEm router tables.
Kenny, I just put together my Jessem. I have a question. The lift does move easily up and down but I hear a slight grinding sound . Is this normal or should there be no sound when using the crank? Thank you for the great video.
The gear mechanism makes a slight "purring" kind of noise. While you might think this sounds like grinding it isn't. I haven't seen a lift yet that was completely silent. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in David and good luck with your new setup.
The micro adjust is for changing the position of your router table's fence to get very precise settings. If you needed a dado routed at 3/16" in from the edge of a board and your test cut showed that you were 1/32" too short, you can use the micro adjust to dial in that measurement to move the fence exactly 1/32". If you are interested in a video where I install the micro adjust and demonstrate and test it, you can find it here. ua-cam.com/video/SuBchzVQz6A/v-deo.html I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video and awesome looking table. Thank you for posting! Very curious, how do the dust collection port on the bottom of the table handle dust? Good or bad?
Hi Ron. Thanks for contacting me. I would say that the dust collection at the bottom of the table works well enough to get about 75+% of the dust created by the router. No router table's dust collection is 100% but when the day comes that I build a cabinet around this table I will be taking into consideration, some dust collection improvements that will help with the 25% left behind. The problem here is the open space around the opening of the router table's throat and depending on how low or high you have the bit raised, or how much material you are removing, the result can vary. They are not unacceptable results, but I just think that with a few tweaks, it could be greatly improved. I will be sure to post that build and the result of the D/C modifications on the show. I still LOVE this router table and the whole setup. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply. I asked on amazon and some one said pretty much the same thing. Works, sort of. I've looked at Jessem tables before but only recently noticed their duct. Thought it looked good, but ya I can see it only covers so much. Just bought a new jessem lift and PC motor, tired of fighting with my Trition. So I am looking for dust collection. I have limited space underneath because of a bit drawer, so looks like I need to just make a box and be done with it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings BTW the table looks awesome. Bet you are loving it. Just got the Jessem Mast-R II lift and OMG it is a thing of beauty. I am just in awe. Now my Incra gold plates look crappy LOL. Jessem sure makes high quality stuff. I keep buying more.
@@RonKillian So far, I am loving it. The digital height readout can be a total asset and I love how it functions so far. It is definitely a solidly built unit.
@@RonKillian I think, when the time comes to build a cabinet around this one, I will be shrinking down the motor cabinet and adding dust collection at the bottom so that anything that isn't picked up by the factory duct, will be remove from the shop made one. Keep you eye on the channel for the router table build. Hopefully, that will be coming in the next couple of months.
Hi Kenny, I really enjoyed both videos you made on the assembly of this setup...lots of helpful info and very well done, thank you. I've been wanting to upgrade my router table and get a lift for a long time, so when an older version ('06 model) of one of these came up on craigslist, I picked it up. It doesn't have as many bells and whistles as yours does (but it's very similar) and I'm hoping it will be a real upgrade from what I had before. The guy made some mistakes putting it together and I'm fixing those issues now, but I'm also wondering about the steel base assembly. At 3:09 you say to use the upper two holes in the lower support flanges, but what are you actually gaining by doing that? Am I missing something? My base is already assembled using the lower two holes, and I like that, because it gives me more room to add a couple storage drawers under the table. Just wondering what your reasoning is for suggesting the use of those upper holes, because then you lose that extra space. There is still plenty of room under the frame for my toes (while standing at the table) and the frame is very sturdy as it is. Thanks again for making these videos, they are helpful.
The newer versions of these frames are available with optional casters which utilize the lower holes in the uprights. You can place the cross members in the lower holes if you wish, but you are increasing the possibility of the table "racking" or twisting out of square. It's a worst case scenario for sure so if you are happy with the assembly with the cross members mounted lower on the uprights, then that's just fine. I hope this helped. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it. I thought those were probably your reasons so I think I'll leave it as it is, to utilize that extra storage space. The frame is very sturdy and nicely squared as is, but I think I'll make my own rolling base with angle iron and 2" locking castors, to keep everything as low as possible (I'm short). Thanks for your input, I appreciate it. You can bet I'll be referring to both videos again when I reset the whole fence system...currently, he has the outside table guides for the main fence set so far forward, they completely block the T-track channels (can't even use them!) and the miter fence is set up WAY further to the left than you have it. I like the way you did it, and am going to try to duplicate it. I hope I didn't pay too much for this used setup and I'm hoping their won't be any broken bolts or stripped hole 'surprises' to contend with, when I move the outside fence rails back to where they belong. If I can get all the kinks worked out properly it should be a really nice table and lift for what I paid, plus it came with a nice Porter Cable 7518 router motor, already in the lift. I definitely took a chance on this, but I'm hoping it pays off.
@@MnktoDave I hope it pays off for you too. Good luck with getting it calibrated the way you like. Feel free to let me know how you make out with it. I'd be interested to hear.
Nice looking table, Kenny! Looking forward to seeing how the alignment goes. I don't have room for a dedicated router table. i'm looking at a Bench Dog insert kit for my table saw, but mostly because I haven't found any other similar kits. Did you look into that sort of thing, or just dedicated tables like this one? Thank you! :-)
Due to the small size of my shop, I have to have the shop set up in a certain way. Unfortunately, that "certain way" makes the extension table of my table saw completely inaccessible and because of that, using that area to house a router table just wasn't an option for me. I've always had a dedicated router table and I wasn't about to change that setup. I will be boxing in this stand and making it contain a lot more storage. Thanks for tuning in this week and for taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ..Thanks, Kenny! You seem to be much better up-to-speed than I am on the latest tools, so I figured that it wouldn't hurt to ask. I have very limited space, too...spread across two rooms in my basement. Very much enjoying the videos. Thanks again! :-)
The model number is Model # 02230 and you can find it here. jessem.ca/collections/router-table-accessories/products/digital-readout I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Steve.
Kenny, that is a really great looking router table system you bought, color me envious!! Is the top phenolic material? The router lift looks really substantial. Looks like you got quite a shear job on your head and face. Is that the summer look? Looking forward to the rest of the assembly.
Thanks for the kind words Paul. The table is a phenolic material and is much more stable than the normal choice of MDF or arborite. So far, I'm quite impressed with the whole setup and I absolutely love the lift. As for the "shear job"...let's just call it my summer time, no maintenance, I can do it myself, save money on haircuts, aerodynamic, sexy kind of thing. LOL. Thanks for tuning in this week. It's always great to hear you comments on the show.
To mag a bit.screwdriver.point or....simply take a 16 gage wire..bare both ends. Coll it tighly around the bit..drag the ends across 12 volt battery posts a couple times ..walla...magnitied..
As always another great video from our good neighbor from the north of me.
Glad that you liked it Casey. Great to hear from you. Thanks for tuning in.
hey cool this video hit on my birthday of that year. Hey man I apologize i'm bad with names. but i love your review and assembly and your cabinet build for this router table. it will very much be on my dream list. I just wish the crack shaft was a little longer or that the table was a little wider.
For the crank shaft, you can always get an extension and a coupling if you really need and for the longer table, you can always add fold down extension wings for those times when you really need the extra support but I've never needed a longer table or a longer crank. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Great choice for a router table! I have looked at them and played around with it in the store showroom. Excited to see you work with it. 👍🇨🇦 JessEm produces high quality tools.
Their entire line of tools really seems to be top notch. I have some serious expectations of this table and I hope it lives up to it. Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in to the show.
Appreciate the video...thank you!
I hope you found it useful Mark. Thanks for tuning in.
Good job, Kenny. Keep up the clear instruction
Thanks for the kind words Glenn. I hope you enjoyed the show. Thank you for tuning in.
Looks like a great set-up Ken, thanks for sharing.
So far, I really like it Dale. Quite the upgrade from my other system but as always, time will tell. Thanks for tuning in this week.
Great video Kenny. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words and for tuning in. It's very much appreciated.
Very nice table,good job thank you for sharing great info 👍🏼
You're very welcome Tomas. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
That some router table you got there Kenny very nice! 👍
Thank you Raymond. So far, I really like it and I like the way it performs. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment.
Just finished up watching your part 1 assy. on this until that up until now I knew little about. I will watch part 2 next. I'm intrigued with the DRO system for accuracy.
Thanks for sharing this...
Bill on the Hill,
Vermont... :~)
Glad that you enjoyed part one of the show Bill. I have been pretty impressed with this unit since purchasing it and I am considering a review show in the near future. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.
thanks for the info...looks like a nice table
Thanks Bob. I've been using it for a while now and thus far, I'm quite pleased with it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
hi, kenny looks like its well enginerd . very well explaned ,with nice pace. im, sure lots of people will find the vid.realy helpfull .lignaror jack. england
That's my hope. There just aren't many assembly videos for this unit on the web and I hope that others will find it useful. Thanks for tuning in and thanks for the kind words.
Hi Kenny. I finally got to installing the router and digital router height gauge. My gauge has a grounding in cable factory attached to one of the thumb screws on the gold riser. The manual that came with it makes no mention of where to attach the other end, which has a 1/4” o-ring. I would have thought to attach it to the table’s power switch box. But there is no sign of a grounding post. I can’t imagine they expect it to be attached to an outlet electrical box. Puzzled also when I saw that your gauge had no grounding cable. Any thoughts on where I need to mount it, and still keep the table mobile?
Mine did not come with a grounding cable. I know that the digital gauges are very affected by static. I have to wonder if it is to connect the mounting bracket of the digital gauge to the metal frame of the router table. It's really the only thing I can think of right now. Sounds like you should contact JessEm on this one and see what they have to say about it. I'd be interested to hear their thoughts. I hope you enjoy your new router table. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great info Kenny, as I am looking at that same package or the Mast-R-Lift II Router Table Package. Why did you choose the Excel over the other one I mentioned... is there something I should consider between the two that you prefer?
Greatly appreciate your time and knowledge!
I like the Mast-R-lift II package but I've had router tables before that required a crank to be inserted into the top of the table in order to raise or lower the motor housing. It seemed that I was constantly having to clean out the hole for the crank to be inserted. I liked the Excel package that had the crank on the side of the table, permanently installed and ready to use. That was really the selling point for me. You would be happy with either setup I believe as JessEm makes a fantastic product. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show. Feel free to ask any other questions you might have.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you so very much for the quick reply. I actually did hear you say some of that information in one of your later videos. I apologize for you having to repeat it :-) the only other question I would have is what somebody else had asked also, and that is: is there a significant difference between the incra clearsweep inserts that have the slits in them for seemingly better dust collection under to lift than without the slits in the ring?
For example, if you're cutting a dado, how good is the dust collection straight under the router with it enclosed in a box compared to with and without the slits in the top ring. I know you don't have the slits, so how good is the dust collection straight under the router with a box in the setup that you have when doing a dado cut, say compared to not using any dust collection at all?
I'm so very sorry I made this so long. I wouldn't even read it if I were you and saw something this long.
I do hope I will get an answer from you though :-)
Thanks again, Joey
@@Joey-bq4hu Regardless of how long a post is, I always read them and I do my best to reply to every comment on the channel. It's hard for me to give an opinion about the clearsweep inserts when I don't have any experience with them. I do know that my router table came with a dust collection shroud that connected to the bottom of the table and collects the dust directly from the edge of the bit. This actually does a pretty good job at containing and collecting the chips from routing and now that I have the table fully enclosed (build series to air soon on the show) it is even better. If you haven't already, I would suggest viewing the assembly video on my channel which will show the dust shroud and then the review on the channel which will demonstrate how the dust collection works. I'm sure that the clean sweep inserts would work even better as they would provide a downdraft table effect, collecting the dust from the top surface of the router table through the inserts instead of relying solely on the fence or under table collection. I can't see it being anything but good. I'm not sure if I answered your question or not, but I hope I've given you a little bit of an idea of what the dust collection is like on the JessEm router tables.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks very much! You're very kind!
Kenny, I just put together my Jessem. I have a question. The lift does move easily up and down but I hear a slight grinding sound . Is this normal or should there be no sound when using the crank? Thank you for the great video.
The gear mechanism makes a slight "purring" kind of noise. While you might think this sounds like grinding it isn't. I haven't seen a lift yet that was completely silent. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in David and good luck with your new setup.
what is the use for micro adjust? I am looking at jessem.
The micro adjust is for changing the position of your router table's fence to get very precise settings. If you needed a dado routed at 3/16" in from the edge of a board and your test cut showed that you were 1/32" too short, you can use the micro adjust to dial in that measurement to move the fence exactly 1/32". If you are interested in a video where I install the micro adjust and demonstrate and test it, you can find it here. ua-cam.com/video/SuBchzVQz6A/v-deo.html
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great video and awesome looking table. Thank you for posting! Very curious, how do the dust collection port on the bottom of the table handle dust? Good or bad?
Hi Ron. Thanks for contacting me. I would say that the dust collection at the bottom of the table works well enough to get about 75+% of the dust created by the router. No router table's dust collection is 100% but when the day comes that I build a cabinet around this table I will be taking into consideration, some dust collection improvements that will help with the 25% left behind. The problem here is the open space around the opening of the router table's throat and depending on how low or high you have the bit raised, or how much material you are removing, the result can vary. They are not unacceptable results, but I just think that with a few tweaks, it could be greatly improved. I will be sure to post that build and the result of the D/C modifications on the show. I still LOVE this router table and the whole setup. Thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave a comment. It's very much appreciated.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the reply. I asked on amazon and some one said pretty much the same thing. Works, sort of. I've looked at Jessem tables before but only recently noticed their duct. Thought it looked good, but ya I can see it only covers so much. Just bought a new jessem lift and PC motor, tired of fighting with my Trition. So I am looking for dust collection. I have limited space underneath because of a bit drawer, so looks like I need to just make a box and be done with it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings BTW the table looks awesome. Bet you are loving it. Just got the Jessem Mast-R II lift and OMG it is a thing of beauty. I am just in awe. Now my Incra gold plates look crappy LOL. Jessem sure makes high quality stuff. I keep buying more.
@@RonKillian So far, I am loving it. The digital height readout can be a total asset and I love how it functions so far. It is definitely a solidly built unit.
@@RonKillian I think, when the time comes to build a cabinet around this one, I will be shrinking down the motor cabinet and adding dust collection at the bottom so that anything that isn't picked up by the factory duct, will be remove from the shop made one. Keep you eye on the channel for the router table build. Hopefully, that will be coming in the next couple of months.
Hi Kenny, I really enjoyed both videos you made on the assembly of this setup...lots of helpful info and very well done, thank you. I've been wanting to upgrade my router table and get a lift for a long time, so when an older version ('06 model) of one of these came up on craigslist, I picked it up. It doesn't have as many bells and whistles as yours does (but it's very similar) and I'm hoping it will be a real upgrade from what I had before. The guy made some mistakes putting it together and I'm fixing those issues now, but I'm also wondering about the steel base assembly. At 3:09 you say to use the upper two holes in the lower support flanges, but what are you actually gaining by doing that? Am I missing something? My base is already assembled using the lower two holes, and I like that, because it gives me more room to add a couple storage drawers under the table. Just wondering what your reasoning is for suggesting the use of those upper holes, because then you lose that extra space. There is still plenty of room under the frame for my toes (while standing at the table) and the frame is very sturdy as it is. Thanks again for making these videos, they are helpful.
The newer versions of these frames are available with optional casters which utilize the lower holes in the uprights. You can place the cross members in the lower holes if you wish, but you are increasing the possibility of the table "racking" or twisting out of square. It's a worst case scenario for sure so if you are happy with the assembly with the cross members mounted lower on the uprights, then that's just fine. I hope this helped. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for tuning in. I appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thanks for the quick reply, I appreciate it. I thought those were probably your reasons so I think I'll leave it as it is, to utilize that extra storage space. The frame is very sturdy and nicely squared as is, but I think I'll make my own rolling base with angle iron and 2" locking castors, to keep everything as low as possible (I'm short). Thanks for your input, I appreciate it. You can bet I'll be referring to both videos again when I reset the whole fence system...currently, he has the outside table guides for the main fence set so far forward, they completely block the T-track channels (can't even use them!) and the miter fence is set up WAY further to the left than you have it. I like the way you did it, and am going to try to duplicate it. I hope I didn't pay too much for this used setup and I'm hoping their won't be any broken bolts or stripped hole 'surprises' to contend with, when I move the outside fence rails back to where they belong. If I can get all the kinks worked out properly it should be a really nice table and lift for what I paid, plus it came with a nice Porter Cable 7518 router motor, already in the lift. I definitely took a chance on this, but I'm hoping it pays off.
@@MnktoDave I hope it pays off for you too. Good luck with getting it calibrated the way you like. Feel free to let me know how you make out with it. I'd be interested to hear.
Nice looking table, Kenny! Looking forward to seeing how the alignment goes.
I don't have room for a dedicated router table. i'm looking at a Bench Dog insert kit for my table saw, but mostly because I haven't found any other similar kits. Did you look into that sort of thing, or just dedicated tables like this one? Thank you! :-)
Due to the small size of my shop, I have to have the shop set up in a certain way. Unfortunately, that "certain way" makes the extension table of my table saw completely inaccessible and because of that, using that area to house a router table just wasn't an option for me. I've always had a dedicated router table and I wasn't about to change that setup. I will be boxing in this stand and making it contain a lot more storage. Thanks for tuning in this week and for taking the time to leave a comment. I truly appreciate it.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ..Thanks, Kenny! You seem to be much better up-to-speed than I am on the latest tools, so I figured that it wouldn't hurt to ask. I have very limited space, too...spread across two rooms in my basement. Very much enjoying the videos. Thanks again! :-)
@@normjacques6853 Good luck on your search for an insert system. Let me know what you end up with.
Can you please provide the model# for the Digital Readout Kit? Thank you
The model number is Model # 02230 and you can find it here. jessem.ca/collections/router-table-accessories/products/digital-readout
I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in Steve.
Kenny, that is a really great looking router table system you bought, color me envious!! Is the top phenolic material? The router lift looks really substantial. Looks like you got quite a shear job on your head and face. Is that the summer look? Looking forward to the rest of the assembly.
Thanks for the kind words Paul. The table is a phenolic material and is much more stable than the normal choice of MDF or arborite. So far, I'm quite impressed with the whole setup and I absolutely love the lift. As for the "shear job"...let's just call it my summer time, no maintenance, I can do it myself, save money on haircuts, aerodynamic, sexy kind of thing. LOL. Thanks for tuning in this week. It's always great to hear you comments on the show.
To mag a bit.screwdriver.point or....simply take a 16 gage wire..bare both ends. Coll it tighly around the bit..drag the ends across 12 volt battery posts a couple times ..walla...magnitied..
Thanks for the tips Charles. I'm sure that one will come in handy. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Everyone can screw together a kit, that's no art. Self-made is interesting!
Well I hope you enjoyed the show anyway. Thanks for tuning in.