Hi nick, I’m a builder in the UK and it’s a standard to install what we call a DPM (damp proof membrane) or DPC (damp proof course), this is inspected by the council and signed off before any walls are built. In the old days this used to be a slate layer to prevent water coming up, now a days it’s a plastic layer. I love your channel, you really want to be the very best for your clients and team and I love it. It makes our profession respected. A big thank you.
Another option is to use a barrier below and around the foundation, like Fastfoot. You can also use concrete additives that make the concrete hydrophobic. But this is a solution that I have not seen before, so thank you for sharing.
Xypex is an additive we are just starting to use in our concrete on a few projects. It doesn't replace our normal foundation protection like dimple mats and foundation spray, but it does add another layer of protection that had a solid track record in the commercial environment.
I like the idea of using closed cell foam directly on the pre-slab stone the carries up above the footer so you have a continuous moisture and thermal break.
This is great! I've been following you on IG for a long time and just realized you had a youtube channel..Please Make more videos, great content keep it up.
Remember trees sap network works by capillary action. How tall is the tallest redwood 400something feet? What are you doing for insulation and air barrier. The tremco stuff is nice, but are you also doing a dimple mat and french drain system? That way when the tremco fails or is scraped away the foundation air gap will serve as a barrier as well.
Boston moisture protection is really limited when compared to what is done in Finland. We have EPS below the footing, similar black coating on the footer and also on the beginning of the foundation wall, dimple mat, special gravel that lets water thru and underground draining around the whole building.
You’ll see that happen on this job I’m sure. What you describe is pretty much code here except for the eps under the footer, which is not allowed in my area, and probably not allowed where he’s working either.
By wet set do you mean you're setting them in place by tying them to rebar or suspending them in the form then pouring around them and not placing them into wet concrete after it's poured? Wet set in my mind means the latter and it's generally frowned upon as pushing the bolt down into the concrete moves the aggregate out of the way and potentially weakens the area. I'm far from an expert but this is what I've been told more than once by people smarter than me. Perhaps with anchors that large it's less of a concern but I know with rebar verts and sill plate anchors it's not best practice. Looking forward to hearing what the experts say!
I've never seen wet set anchors suspended by rebar, they're always placed in after pouring. As for the aggregate dislocation, I'm going to disagree based on one thing. When you do a slump test, the concrete must be tamped with a steel rod throughout all layers. Yes, there a difference in design between a tamping rod and anchor, but not enough to make a huge difference. And, by natural forces, the concrete on the slides would flow into the path taken by the wet set anchor.
@@lornes7526 Totally possible, I've never dealt with anchors that size, just verts and sill anchors and they aren't supposed to be wet set (at least that's what I've heard from multiple sources), but perhaps these monsters can be.
Hey Nick. My house was built in 2004. I wonder if they used something like this to waterproof my basement walls when they built the house. It’s a pretty big house. 6000 square feet over 3 floors(including finished basement). I’ve never had any issues with water or dampness in the basement so they must have done something. Just wanted to see if you know when builders started to use this on basement walls? Thanks
What is the best way to waterproof the exposed concrete on the walk-out basement side? Or rather, as a retrofit option where you’re not installing rockwool as described in this video.
Any spray, roll on, or peel and stick membrane will do. Dimple mat over that membrane and drainage at the bottom according to your local code. Around here its perforated pipe covered by 3/4 clear gravel, topped with geo mat, then compacted backfill.
@@lornes7526 he didnt mention...... that was my first thought as well. rebar shouldve been straightened plumb before coating install. i add additional bentonite water stop as well to all footer/wall joint
Will the Tremco cure properly if the rockwool is wet set? I know it's a different product, but my mind went to something like redgard that needs to be exposed to the air to dry.
you're right, it acts as a bond breaker between the footer and wall and that product shouldnt be applied below the wall. the concrete footer should be roughened to a CSP 5 profile to bond the footer to the wall, theres typically a cold joint at that location because contractors couldn't be bothered to do the proper prep work which is to remove the laitence from the footer before forming the walls.
its acceptable (and a good idea) if done "correctly". in addition we always add a bentonite water stop around the entire perimeter. ps. their application of this product is a ridiculous mess.. this fella is out of his wheelhouse..
ur wrong wrong and wrong...... the capillary break is a cheap necessity... we also add a bentonite water stop bar to prevent water intrusion through footer to wall cold joint...
Hi nick, I’m a builder in the UK and it’s a standard to install what we call a DPM (damp proof membrane) or DPC (damp proof course), this is inspected by the council and signed off before any walls are built. In the old days this used to be a slate layer to prevent water coming up, now a days it’s a plastic layer. I love your channel, you really want to be the very best for your clients and team and I love it. It makes our profession respected. A big thank you.
Another option is to use a barrier below and around the foundation, like Fastfoot. You can also use concrete additives that make the concrete hydrophobic. But this is a solution that I have not seen before, so thank you for sharing.
Xypex is an additive we are just starting to use in our concrete on a few projects. It doesn't replace our normal foundation protection like dimple mats and foundation spray, but it does add another layer of protection that had a solid track record in the commercial environment.
Xypex is not approved for waterproofing (neither tested nor approved). Pretty sure they will tell you as such.
Such a dope location. Lucky homeowners get the views and a sweet NS build.
I like the idea of using closed cell foam directly on the pre-slab stone the carries up above the footer so you have a continuous moisture and thermal break.
It will be great to see how you guys do this right from the very very beginning. Keep being an inspiration.
This also works to stop radon gas too
Great work!!
Just what I needed to know for a planned partially underground project. Thanks!
This is great! I've been following you on IG for a long time and just realized you had a youtube channel..Please Make more videos, great content keep it up.
What is the black material you used for your your capillary break?
Remember trees sap network works by capillary action. How tall is the tallest redwood 400something feet? What are you doing for insulation and air barrier. The tremco stuff is nice, but are you also doing a dimple mat and french drain system? That way when the tremco fails or is scraped away the foundation air gap will serve as a barrier as well.
Super existed to follow your new project!
Like putting plastic/visqueen down. Vapor barrier underneath a concrete slab 👍🏻😀❗
Do you guys do 2” face frames or 1.5”?
Boston moisture protection is really limited when compared to what is done in Finland. We have EPS below the footing, similar black coating on the footer and also on the beginning of the foundation wall, dimple mat, special gravel that lets water thru and underground draining around the whole building.
You’ll see that happen on this job I’m sure. What you describe is pretty much code here except for the eps under the footer, which is not allowed in my area, and probably not allowed where he’s working either.
I'd like to see the cement wall they built to determine how high it would wick!
By wet set do you mean you're setting them in place by tying them to rebar or suspending them in the form then pouring around them and not placing them into wet concrete after it's poured? Wet set in my mind means the latter and it's generally frowned upon as pushing the bolt down into the concrete moves the aggregate out of the way and potentially weakens the area. I'm far from an expert but this is what I've been told more than once by people smarter than me. Perhaps with anchors that large it's less of a concern but I know with rebar verts and sill plate anchors it's not best practice. Looking forward to hearing what the experts say!
I've never seen wet set anchors suspended by rebar, they're always placed in after pouring. As for the aggregate dislocation, I'm going to disagree based on one thing. When you do a slump test, the concrete must be tamped with a steel rod throughout all layers. Yes, there a difference in design between a tamping rod and anchor, but not enough to make a huge difference. And, by natural forces, the concrete on the slides would flow into the path taken by the wet set anchor.
@@lornes7526 Totally possible, I've never dealt with anchors that size, just verts and sill anchors and they aren't supposed to be wet set (at least that's what I've heard from multiple sources), but perhaps these monsters can be.
Hey Nick. My house was built in 2004. I wonder if they used something like this to waterproof my basement walls when they built the house. It’s a pretty big house. 6000 square feet over 3 floors(including finished basement). I’ve never had any issues with water or dampness in the basement so they must have done something. Just wanted to see if you know when builders started to use this on basement walls? Thanks
Awesome location. The neighbor's octagon shaped house 😎
What is the best way to waterproof the exposed concrete on the walk-out basement side? Or rather, as a retrofit option where you’re not installing rockwool as described in this video.
Any spray, roll on, or peel and stick membrane will do. Dimple mat over that membrane and drainage at the bottom according to your local code. Around here its perforated pipe covered by 3/4 clear gravel, topped with geo mat, then compacted backfill.
@@lornes7526 looks like my comment had a typo, should have said walk out instead of wall out
How do those white shoes not have a smudge of mud on them??? Did you levitate?
Love it
Are you going to include a drainage dimple mat on the outside of the rockwool to help shed any water that wants to move to the wall?
He has to.
@@lornes7526 he didnt mention...... that was my first thought as well. rebar shouldve been straightened plumb before coating install. i add additional bentonite water stop as well to all footer/wall joint
Will the Tremco cure properly if the rockwool is wet set? I know it's a different product, but my mind went to something like redgard that needs to be exposed to the air to dry.
Rockwool approved this install.
This is new construction not always nice and clean like a remodel in the city. Working against the weather as well.
Several of our videos cover the remodel work we do in Boston.
I'm curious who signed off with using this product to interrupt the concrete - to - concrete joint interphase?
you're right, it acts as a bond breaker between the footer and wall and that product shouldnt be applied below the wall. the concrete footer should be roughened to a CSP 5 profile to bond the footer to the wall, theres typically a cold joint at that location because contractors couldn't be bothered to do the proper prep work which is to remove the laitence from the footer before forming the walls.
Completely acceptable with the rebar and key way.
its acceptable (and a good idea) if done "correctly". in addition we always add a bentonite water stop around the entire perimeter. ps. their application of this product is a ridiculous mess.. this fella is out of his wheelhouse..
Like the waterproofing detail. You should use proper OSHA rebar caps in the future . They are they big square with plate steel inside the plastic.
Complete overkill but i love it! keep it up
ur wrong wrong and wrong...... the capillary break is a cheap necessity... we also add a bentonite water stop bar to prevent water intrusion through footer to wall cold joint...
None of this is needed if the foundation is set on a layer of macadam for a capillary break.
A lot of old school builders I've talked with constantly say that concrete needs to "breathe". Is this true? Does this product prevent that?
The short answer is no, it does not need to breathe. Once ->cured
Moisture will continue to harden concrete.
Sealing the envelope, noice.
So this is how hobbits build their cozy homes.
Your white shoes are now trashed
Those bars are not 16” on center… more like 24”
I’ll take out a tape next time for you bud.
@@NSBuilders if I’m right, you have to send me NSBUILDERS shirt?????
👀
@@NSBuilders do I get an NS Builder shirt, I’m an architect in PA, just wanted to see if anyone would recognize it when I wear on job sites
I can tell they are 16" OC just by glancing at the video, but then again I actually build things as opposed to only drawing them. Typical architect