Fred, thanks for the visual, and for the jig design, which makes the task MUCH easier to accomplish neatly. BTW, thanks as well for your series of I-beam design articles in the late, lamented Flying Models.
No problem, awhile back I looked around on a video on how to do this and couldn't find anything. I wrap all of my flying lines now instead of using the crimp method
Thank you for this solution! The tool makes an awkward job easy and it's build time is quickly rewarded. I salvage copper wire from various sources such as discarded electric motors (toys) and AC/DC adapters (mobile phones, etc).
The tool looks odd but it does free up your hands so you are not trying keep everything from moving. I even have a unit that I can take out to the flying field to make lines to an exact length. Glad you found it helpful
Thanks for posting this excellent how to video! I used to use Kevlar s heavy duty thread and ca to wrap my flying lines instead of the using the copper wire. But that tool you made certainly looks like it makes the job much less of a chore.
A club member showed me how to wrap the lines and I walked away and figured that I needed to be monkey with 5 arms to do the job so I had to figure out another way. The tool is easy to make and you probably have all of the parts you need around the house. I only use one pin when wrapping the lines now
To be a stickler for the rules, the AMA recommends wire, not thread, to use for wrapping the lines. I think all the technical requirements are in the AMA Control Line General Rules, in section 5. Mr. Cronenwett has done a fantastic job of describing how to measure and wrap lines in his very helpful videos. Thanks, Fred!
I made mine from scrap pieces of wood and wire, the only thing I had to buy was a Bicycle Tube. After using this now for awhile I only really use one of the two pins.
I haven't tried the solder trick to keep the copper wires from coming undone. The concern would be if the heat from the soldering would affect the strength of the joint or not. I have no data on what affect it would be. Glad you found the video helpful.
@@clscale Soldering leaves an abrupt end to a stiff section of the wrap, and flexing of the stress point when storing the lines can eventually lead to fatigue failure. This is less of a problem with epoxy, which has a tiny bit of give, but it's still best to limit it to a tiny droplet binding the wrap ends, and not coating the entire wrap. Also, if soldering is used, be extra careful to wash all the flux residue from the wrap, and neutralized any potential acids with bicarb, as this also may lead to failure in the long run.
I'm new to CL. Where do you buy the eyelets? I can't find them on the Sig or Brodak websites unless they are already on commercially made CL lines. Do you use standard upholstery/fabric type eyelets and close them with an eyelet tool?
I order my line making material from www.mbsmodelsupply.com, look for catalog item 3039 or 3040 for the Eyelets. They also sell the flying line itself in bulk rolls so you can cut your lines to what ever length you want. They also have the Reels for the finished lines. The copper wire I get from my local hardware store, don't get to light of a gauge since you will tend to pull on it fairly hard.
Great video, thanks for the share. Where can you get the thimbles in quantity. I tried a local industrial supplier and they did not have them - kind of an unusual piece. Are they used for something else in industry?
Great how -to video, much appreciated. Could you tell me where you find the eyelets? I h ave everything else, the eyelets are the only thing keeping me from flying this spring. Any help appreciated. Bernie Gerth
I get my eyelets from www.mbsmodelsupply.com, look at item 3039 or 3040. I tend to use the larger ones because of the size of the models that I fly. I get the copper wire from my local ACE hardware store. good luck and I can't wait for the warmer weather to come so all can get out there and fly! mbsmodelsupply.com/Catalog.pdf
I have not figured out the best way to wrap the lines at the bellcrank, for my CL scale models I tend to use the crimped ends at the bellcrank, but for aerobatics it would need a better connection. Not sure what to suggest
Fred, thanks for the visual, and for the jig design, which makes the task MUCH easier to accomplish neatly. BTW, thanks as well for your series of I-beam design articles in the late, lamented Flying Models.
Excellent video and great tool too. This will really help me from getting stuck so many times when wrapping solids. Thanks very much, Fred!
No problem, awhile back I looked around on a video on how to do this and couldn't find anything. I wrap all of my flying lines now instead of using the crimp method
Thank you for this solution! The tool makes an awkward job easy and it's build time is quickly rewarded. I salvage copper wire from various sources such as discarded electric motors (toys) and AC/DC adapters (mobile phones, etc).
I am going to make a copy of your workpiece as in the past I have needed an extra set of hands doing this.Makes it much easier thanks.
The tool looks odd but it does free up your hands so you are not trying keep everything from moving. I even have a unit that I can take out to the flying field to make lines to an exact length. Glad you found it helpful
what size copper wire and where can you get the eyelids
Thanks for posting this excellent how to video! I used to use Kevlar s heavy duty thread and ca to wrap my flying lines instead of the using the copper wire. But that tool you made certainly looks like it makes the job much less of a chore.
A club member showed me how to wrap the lines and I walked away and figured that I needed to be monkey with 5 arms to do the job so I had to figure out another way. The tool is easy to make and you probably have all of the parts you need around the house. I only use one pin when wrapping the lines now
To be a stickler for the rules, the AMA recommends wire, not thread, to use for wrapping the lines. I think all the technical requirements are in the AMA Control Line General Rules, in section 5.
Mr. Cronenwett has done a fantastic job of describing how to measure and wrap lines in his very helpful videos. Thanks, Fred!
Thx Fred this was very helpful, Great Job
Glad it was helpful!
Great tool Fred. Thanks for posting this, I have been looking for a practical tool to wrap with. Steve Thornton
I made mine from scrap pieces of wood and wire, the only thing I had to buy was a Bicycle Tube. After using this now for awhile I only really use one of the two pins.
this video is awesome. great info!
Excellent video,thanks for sharing.
Great and excellent system. But to seal the copper spirals, could you do a tin solder on the copper spiral instead of 5 minutes of epoxy resin?
I haven't tried the solder trick to keep the copper wires from coming undone. The concern would be if the heat from the soldering would affect the strength of the joint or not. I have no data on what affect it would be. Glad you found the video helpful.
@@clscale Soldering leaves an abrupt end to a stiff section of the wrap, and flexing of the stress point when storing the lines can eventually lead to fatigue failure. This is less of a problem with epoxy, which has a tiny bit of give, but it's still best to limit it to a tiny droplet binding the wrap ends, and not coating the entire wrap. Also, if soldering is used, be extra careful to wash all the flux residue from the wrap, and neutralized any potential acids with bicarb, as this also may lead to failure in the long run.
I'm new to CL. Where do you buy the eyelets? I can't find them on the Sig or Brodak websites unless they are already on commercially made CL lines. Do you use standard upholstery/fabric type eyelets and close them with an eyelet tool?
I order my line making material from www.mbsmodelsupply.com, look for catalog item 3039 or 3040 for the Eyelets. They also sell the flying line itself in bulk rolls so you can cut your lines to what ever length you want. They also have the Reels for the finished lines. The copper wire I get from my local hardware store, don't get to light of a gauge since you will tend to pull on it fairly hard.
@@clscale Thanks very much Fred. 😁 I'm going make a fixture like yours.
Great video, thanks for the share. Where can you get the thimbles in quantity. I tried a local industrial supplier and they did not have them - kind of an unusual piece. Are they used for something else in industry?
Great how -to video, much appreciated. Could you tell me where you find the eyelets? I h ave everything else, the eyelets are the only thing keeping me from flying this spring. Any help appreciated. Bernie Gerth
I get my eyelets from www.mbsmodelsupply.com, look at item 3039 or 3040. I tend to use the larger ones because of the size of the models that I fly. I get the copper wire from my local ACE hardware store. good luck and I can't wait for the warmer weather to come so all can get out there and fly!
mbsmodelsupply.com/Catalog.pdf
What size copper wire is that you use?
the .032 diameter wire was too heavy, the .016 diameter wire the smallest I will use. The .016 can break if you pull too hard.
Awesome. Thank you
Really good idea!
Hi, great tool. What size copper wire do you use to actually wrap the lines? 0.016 would be the lines themselves right?
I tried some really heavy wire but it was too stiff, I like the .016 diameter copper wire just don't pull too hard
How do you wrap the leadout cable around the Bell Crank
I have not figured out the best way to wrap the lines at the bellcrank, for my CL scale models I tend to use the crimped ends at the bellcrank, but for aerobatics it would need a better connection. Not sure what to suggest
I always soldered and crimped the ends.
I would add a spool of copper to the side to make it easier
Fred: please pardon my oopsie below. I mistook your voice for that of Fred Carnes. I am now embarrassed. Long live Scale!!!
Nice.
Lovely but unnecessary overkill