It wasn't easy per se but it's doable and worth it! It was also hot in my shop so that probably didn't help. My X5 is at 207k and I'm still driving her every day.
Thanks for the info! There's always more than 1 way to get stuff done. Personally, I never would have gotten the mounts out without lowering the subframe. Not even close for me.
Naaah you’re not ugly or anything LOL I’m glad you mentioned the vibration at the end of the video because that was what I was trying to figure out if that’s what my problem was and what you described was exactly what I have going on been trying to track that down It’s been bugging me but I think I’ll give it a go now I appreciate you thank you
I have a problem with the 2008 BMW X6 35i Some time ago, the whole car started shaking while I was in the parking lot, many times and when I was going in reverse. There is no significant change in the tachometer around 550-650 rpm. I had missfire on cylinder 3 and 4 but I solved it. There are no errors on the computer, but the car starts to shake a bit again, especially when I start reversing. I replaced the battery, it was 10 years old, I cleaned the map sensor, there are no air leaks. It just shakes a bit while in parking mode. I don't know what the problem might be The car covered 145,000 km, I changed the oil in the gearbox and engine. Thank you.
Did you use BMW OEM engine mounts or aftermarket engine mounts. I have replaced mine with Aftermarket Lemforder engine mounts and i still have vibrations.
@@michaelchitty1728 Mount transmission was changed also with Lemfoerder.The thing is that before i swapped all of the mounts the vibration was less with the shot mount on the engine
@@Xothus your diesel requires a different part number than the gas/petrol engines. Did you use PN 22116770638? Yours have the vacuum lines most likely. But if it's as bad as it sounds, you may have something else going on. My car is still very smooth, the engine mounts made a huge difference.
@@michaelchitty1728 Hm now i am starting to think that the car mechanics may have ordered the engine mounts for a petrol/gas engine. Can gas/petrol engine mounts be fitted on the diesel engine without noticing?
Dude, are you in Florida? I got an 04' just bought all 3 mounts and I'm getting a lot of run arounds from different people. A friend that's a great mechanic has a few engine jobs before he can get to mines, if I didn't have back problems it would be a done deal but I don't want to take the chance.
Although I appreciate the video if you could flip the camera a bit more on the locations of bolts and mounting brackets and such while you’re explaining this instead of showing your face it will probably be much more beneficial I guess I have to try to find another video to assist with sub frame bolts locations and so on and so forth as well as socket sizes I hope I don’t sound unappreciative but he didn’t tell me much
Hello, apologies for so much face time. It wasnt meant to be a step by step tutorial. It was meant to give some advice on what's involved in replacing the mounts and why you would want to replace them in the first place. If you are attempting this repair, then it's assumed that you already have a metric socket set and external torx socket set. The subframe and engine mount bolts locations are very obvious, none are hidden. I did not remove the engine mount brackets from the engine. No other bolts to remove. Sorry for not being as helpful as you were hoping.
@@michaelchitty1728 Michael I did want to ask you, before you replace engine mounts, did the vibrating seem to taper off slightly and the engine got warm
The vibration was bad while the car was in drive, but stopped, such as at a stop light. If you switched to neutral, it almost went away. Also while driving, it was pretty much not noticeable. I cant really say that temperature made a big difference. These mounts are oil filled, so one clue that they're bad, is if you have oil residue on them, assuming it's not from one of the engine gaskets.. The transfer case mounts can also go bad and cause vibrations, but they arent oil filled. If the vibration is only there while driving, not while stopped, then it could be your center support bearing, guibo (flex disc), or u-joints in the driveshaft. Also, the facelift models are sensative to transfer case fluid. Old or worn fluid can cause slight vibrations while accelerating. Only buy the $48 per bottle BMW fluid if You do change it. Only takes less than a quart. You have to use a tool/scanner such as INPA to read the LMV (transfer case ecu) computer codes.
@@michaelchitty1728 Yeah that’s the same for me too I’m pretty sure it’s the same thing it’s just that maybe the engine mounts become more pliable when they’re warm because the vibration definitely lessons after 30 min of driving but it is still there really bad when I started first thing in the morning that’s why I thought it may be a fluid issue but power steering and transmission fluid seems fine
I'd hate to do a RHD then! The LHD wasn't exactly easy. But it is doable without disassembling the whole car, as long as you have some patience and a pry bar 😅 The lift helps but not necessary. Changing the engine mounts is so worth it though!
@@michaelchitty1728 be ause the steering will hit the cv shaft, that why after hold up the engine, can't down enough to get it out, may need to remove the cv and the housing or drop all the bottom.
You can't leave the steering gear bolted to the Front Axle Carrier frame and undo the steering shaft from the steering gear? Should be 1 bolt and the splined shaft comes off.
Leave the steering rack bolted to the frame. Remove the steering shaft from the splined input shaft of the steering rack. Should gain enough clearance to pry the frame down and R&R 1 engine mount at a time.
I'm just one guy trying to give some tips to anyone else with the issue I had. Reading online, there's differing info of what to do. If you are considering doing this job, then I assume the 'work' is self explainatory and you are competent enough to do it. I only gave tips of what can be done, what needs to be removed, and what doesn't, and maybe some lessons learned along the way from my point of view. I don't have a camera crew nor do I run a mechanic shop. Sorry for your disappointment, but best wishes.
You are correct, I am not a professional. Nothing important done except my engine mounts 🤣 I tell you how to do it. If you're still confused you should probably pay a professional. Best of luck!
All those deep exhales after every cut makes me not wanna attempt to do this.. sounds like your working very very hard
It wasn't easy per se but it's doable and worth it! It was also hot in my shop so that probably didn't help. My X5 is at 207k and I'm still driving her every day.
My 2015 x5 with 120k miles also has the same vibration. Im going to change the engine mount soon. Thanks for the video.
I never did what you did at all. Simply use a jack under the engine. I removed both at the same time
Thanks for the info! There's always more than 1 way to get stuff done. Personally, I never would have gotten the mounts out without lowering the subframe. Not even close for me.
Naaah you’re not ugly or anything LOL I’m glad you mentioned the vibration at the end of the video because that was what I was trying to figure out if that’s what my problem was and what you described was exactly what I have going on been trying to track that down
It’s been bugging me but I think I’ll give it a go now I appreciate you thank you
There is tow rh and lh but where is the third one is the where the transfer case is
I have a problem with the 2008 BMW X6 35i
Some time ago, the whole car started shaking while I was in the parking lot, many times and when I was going in reverse.
There is no significant change in the tachometer around 550-650 rpm.
I had missfire on cylinder 3 and 4 but I solved it.
There are no errors on the computer, but the car starts to shake a bit again, especially when I start reversing.
I replaced the battery, it was 10 years old, I cleaned the map sensor, there are no air leaks.
It just shakes a bit while in parking mode.
I don't know what the problem might be
The car covered 145,000 km, I changed the oil in the gearbox and engine.
Thank you.
wait till you replace the Transfer Case Mount and the Giubos. very comfortable drive :)
Did you use BMW OEM engine mounts or aftermarket engine mounts. I have replaced mine with Aftermarket Lemforder engine mounts and i still have vibrations.
I used Lemfoerder which are OE mounts just without the BMW logo on them. You may need transmission mounts too. Those can also cause vibrations.
@@michaelchitty1728 Mount transmission was changed also with Lemfoerder.The thing is that before i swapped all of the mounts the vibration was less with the shot mount on the engine
My engine is the 3.0 diesel 184 hp.
@@Xothus your diesel requires a different part number than the gas/petrol engines. Did you use PN 22116770638? Yours have the vacuum lines most likely. But if it's as bad as it sounds, you may have something else going on. My car is still very smooth, the engine mounts made a huge difference.
@@michaelchitty1728 Hm now i am starting to think that the car mechanics may have ordered the engine mounts for a petrol/gas engine. Can gas/petrol engine mounts be fitted on the diesel engine without noticing?
Dude, are you in Florida? I got an 04' just bought all 3 mounts and I'm getting a lot of run arounds from different people. A friend that's a great mechanic has a few engine jobs before he can get to mines, if I didn't have back problems it would be a done deal but I don't want to take the chance.
I'm in the upstate of SC, FL is too hot. It's not a fun job especially if you have a bad back.
It cost me 83 bucks for the price of the new fan assembly and took me about an hour and a half with a Dremel and some snips and wing nuts
I replaced my auxiliary fan today on my E53 without having to take it all apart I’m going to try to post it but it will save everybody 1000 bucks
Although I appreciate the video if you could flip the camera a bit more on the locations of bolts and mounting brackets and such while you’re explaining this instead of showing your face it will probably be much more beneficial
I guess I have to try to find another video to assist with sub frame bolts locations and so on and so forth as well as socket sizes I hope I don’t sound unappreciative but he didn’t tell me much
Hello, apologies for so much face time. It wasnt meant to be a step by step tutorial. It was meant to give some advice on what's involved in replacing the mounts and why you would want to replace them in the first place. If you are attempting this repair, then it's assumed that you already have a metric socket set and external torx socket set. The subframe and engine mount bolts locations are very obvious, none are hidden. I did not remove the engine mount brackets from the engine. No other bolts to remove. Sorry for not being as helpful as you were hoping.
@@michaelchitty1728
Michael I did want to ask you, before you replace engine mounts, did the vibrating seem to taper off slightly and the engine got warm
The vibration was bad while the car was in drive, but stopped, such as at a stop light. If you switched to neutral, it almost went away. Also while driving, it was pretty much not noticeable. I cant really say that temperature made a big difference. These mounts are oil filled, so one clue that they're bad, is if you have oil residue on them, assuming it's not from one of the engine gaskets.. The transfer case mounts can also go bad and cause vibrations, but they arent oil filled. If the vibration is only there while driving, not while stopped, then it could be your center support bearing, guibo (flex disc), or u-joints in the driveshaft. Also, the facelift models are sensative to transfer case fluid. Old or worn fluid can cause slight vibrations while accelerating. Only buy the $48 per bottle BMW fluid if You do change it. Only takes less than a quart. You have to use a tool/scanner such as INPA to read the LMV (transfer case ecu) computer codes.
@@michaelchitty1728
Yeah that’s the same for me too I’m pretty sure it’s the same thing it’s just that maybe the engine mounts become more pliable when they’re warm because the vibration definitely lessons after 30 min of driving but it is still there really bad when I started first thing in the morning that’s why I thought it may be a fluid issue but power steering and transmission fluid seems fine
right hand drive much harder
I'd hate to do a RHD then! The LHD wasn't exactly easy. But it is doable without disassembling the whole car, as long as you have some patience and a pry bar 😅 The lift helps but not necessary. Changing the engine mounts is so worth it though!
@@michaelchitty1728 be ause the steering will hit the cv shaft, that why after hold up the engine, can't down enough to get it out, may need to remove the cv and the housing or drop all the bottom.
You can't leave the steering gear bolted to the Front Axle Carrier frame and undo the steering shaft from the steering gear? Should be 1 bolt and the splined shaft comes off.
@@michaelchitty1728 that steering rack sit into the frame sideways, even remove the bolts, still can't drop the frame much.
Leave the steering rack bolted to the frame. Remove the steering shaft from the splined input shaft of the steering rack. Should gain enough clearance to pry the frame down and R&R 1 engine mount at a time.
Need video of the WORK, not the video creator…..🙄
I'm just one guy trying to give some tips to anyone else with the issue I had. Reading online, there's differing info of what to do. If you are considering doing this job, then I assume the 'work' is self explainatory and you are competent enough to do it. I only gave tips of what can be done, what needs to be removed, and what doesn't, and maybe some lessons learned along the way from my point of view. I don't have a camera crew nor do I run a mechanic shop. Sorry for your disappointment, but best wishes.
Talk, talk, talk but nathing important done, you are not a profesional
You are correct, I am not a professional. Nothing important done except my engine mounts 🤣
I tell you how to do it. If you're still confused you should probably pay a professional. Best of luck!