Mate of mine is a mechanic and did the 2 front bearings, same model car, except where you have 3 nuts and bolts at end of wishbone, on my car there's 3 large solid rivits , not nuts and bolts, made job very difficult, is this a modification or have you experienced this before, thank you
@@autodocuk It is very critical that you have the torque correct in the instruction videos, if this nut is to loose, the wheel can fly and someone could die!!
@@AGF78 the wheel will more likely just lock up, the brake rotor and caliper incl. holder will still keep the wheel in place, so if the nuts losens it will wobble, give of a loud noise as the rotor collides with the caliper and just mess up the front end. The wheel won't just fly off... The drive shaft will become a bit lose and will probably mess things like handling up well before the nut unscrews all the way. But yes, they will need to be more careful giving torque specs in the videos.
Depends on how stubborn the nuts and bolts are. The lock bolt for the ball joint can be a pig. I would also reccomend to do the suspension control arms at the same time and probably the other suspension joints to while you are there if they have not been changed recently. ( Track rod ends & anti roll bar links)
Given all tools handy, it would take about 3-4 hours first time. After first experience, you might do it by 1-2 hours. And so on, reduce your time on each further attempts. But normally these bolts are gone through thosuands of cycles of HEAT-WATER-DUST which makes them fused with rust and what not, that they get difficult to unbolt. So it would throw you odd curve to follow. Like needing heat gun, rounding nuts or breaking parts.
Pleased this vid is here, but shocked at the sloppy torque setting. Bloke went way over the set torque on the wrench each and every time. Ya should stop when you hear the click. Looks like he went a good margin over on every bolt lol.
Hi! Thank you for your comment. We understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, and in the future we will try not to allow this to happen again.
![How to change rear wheel bearing on FORD MONDEO MK3 Saloon [TUTORIAL AUTODOC]](/img/n.gif)
Great video, it has shown me all the steps I needed to see and all of the tool information I needed as well. Thanks
Thank you for your feedback! We are pleased to know that our video was helpful for you.
Mate of mine is a mechanic and did the 2 front bearings, same model car, except where you have 3 nuts and bolts at end of wishbone, on my car there's 3 large solid rivits , not nuts and bolts, made job very difficult, is this a modification or have you experienced this before, thank you
@@leebenstead7171 thanks for info Lee👍
buy Lemforder , it comes ready with 3 bolts
I have read that the wheel hub nut torque is 290 nm. Are you sure that the nut torque is only 165 nm?
Yes you are right, the correct tightening torque is 290Nm.
@@autodocuk It is very critical that you have the torque correct in the instruction videos, if this nut is to loose, the wheel can fly and someone could die!!
@@AGF78 the wheel will more likely just lock up, the brake rotor and caliper incl. holder will still keep the wheel in place, so if the nuts losens it will wobble, give of a loud noise as the rotor collides with the caliper and just mess up the front end. The wheel won't just fly off... The drive shaft will become a bit lose and will probably mess things like handling up well before the nut unscrews all the way.
But yes, they will need to be more careful giving torque specs in the videos.
Approx 1 hour from start to finish?
If you have all the necessary tools, then about an hour.
AUTODOC
Depends on how stubborn the nuts and bolts are. The lock bolt for the ball joint can be a pig. I would also reccomend to do the suspension control arms at the same time and probably the other suspension joints to while you are there if they have not been changed recently. ( Track rod ends & anti roll bar links)
Given all tools handy, it would take about 3-4 hours first time. After first experience, you might do it by 1-2 hours. And so on, reduce your time on each further attempts. But normally these bolts are gone through thosuands of cycles of HEAT-WATER-DUST which makes them fused with rust and what not, that they get difficult to unbolt. So it would throw you odd curve to follow. Like needing heat gun, rounding nuts or breaking parts.
Pleased this vid is here, but shocked at the sloppy torque setting. Bloke went way over the set torque on the wrench each and every time. Ya should stop when you hear the click. Looks like he went a good margin over on every bolt lol.
Hi! Thank you for your comment. We understand that mistakes were made during the replacement, and in the future we will try not to allow this to happen again.
Copper grease on bolt threads is that a good idea lol
Still a ice one though
You guys love spray copper grease! If only it was 'real' gold....
Yes, we often use spray with copper grease for mechanical parts of cars.
AUTODOC
If your bottom ball joint isn't bolted on and riveted... Remove that 1st save yourself the hassle lol
Thank you for sharing your experience, it will be very useful information for us and our viewers.