383 Engine Autopsy - Bad Build Investigated
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- Nick's Garage Gear Shop
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Nick has seen some incredible things, during his career building engines. But sometimes he just has to ask himself 'What went wrong?'.
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On that leaky rear main, pay close attention to the direction of the knurls. A reverse rotation crank from a marine engine will have the knurls angled in the opposite direction of a regular rotation crank. Other than that the cranks are the same. The reverse rotation knurls will suck oil out of the engine rather than pushing it back in. In such a case the remedy is to completely polish the knurls off. The knurls are designed for rope type seals, (which can work well when properly installed). Your machinist will find the answer. Can't wait to see what he says. Good luck!
I was expecting an end-play issue. Too much will scrub the seal lip off pretty quick.
My uncle had a boat with a 289. He needed a crank. I gave him one from a car. Yes, it pumped the oil right out. That's how I learned about the knurls.
Perfer rope seal
i understand one must remove aprox .006 to eliminate the knurls. is that too much material removed for the lip seal to work properly???
The knurls do appear to be correct for that engine application, however they aren't consistent all the way around. The lip of the seal seems more compressed on one side than the other.
I've been building engines for 30+years and this man impressed me.
you build» ????
i worked once on a factory where they build engines, but iam not sure about you.-
Hey Monday and a 383 teardown. I'm anxious to see what you find wrong, here we go!!!
Right on time, as always. Great to have you along for the ride.
JustMoparJoe is who I talk to.
Hi Eugene this 383 was far from a dream but now it's in the right hands with the Nick's Garage team Big ups
You guys are the real deal. Been watching your channel for well over a year and have really come to appreciate what you do. I hope you guys figure out how to make time run backwards because the world needs you for a long time to come! Cheers from the west!
@@robertorhymes Hi Roberto, I totally agree with you. I'm looking forward to seeing if Nick makes his 1HP/cu.inch goal. Hope all is well.
Since becoming a dedicated fan of the channel, I always make it a point to spread the word of Nick's Garage. I am pleased to say that two of my friends are now aware of the stellar content that you are kind enough to provide. Much appreciation to all those involved!
Kendal sent his engine to the right guy. Nobody knows Chrysler engines better than Nick!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for that.
I was taught to proper prepare the gasket surfaces and the tin covers. You have recently mentioned dinging back the bolt holes. That was exactly how I was taught. You will never need to goop up the engine with silicon if you properly prepare your build.
We've had at least 2 engines in our shop that had failed due to silicon over applied and inside the engine a chunk broke loose and plugged an oil passage. My boss ( mentor) was just like Nick, he would curse the scourge of misapplication of sealers. I was taught well and still use this methodology today, some 40 years later.
Yes, ESPECIALLY on valve cover and timing cover flanges... The holes on re-used tin covers are, most of the time, bent inward from over tightening rhe bolts in the past.
NO amount of silicone will seal those covers up unless the holes have been pounded back flat with a hammer against a flat piece of steel.
As long as we have guys like Nick around we can rest assured that the classics will never be forgotten ✌️🇺🇸
Had this same problem. Bought a aftermarket seal block, leaked bad ! Took the crank out and mocked the seal to discover the seal block was too far forward not allowing the seal end tabs to line up. Quick fix: inlarge the bolt holes till the end tabs line up and it sealed up great. Hope this helps. Keep the videos rolling!!
Nick is such a down to earth guy. I love this channel. Thanks, Nick, for all this awesome content! You truly should be an official ambassador to Dodge!
Nick has an old S&K ratchet handle. They work real smooth. Love mine. It’s 57 years old.
Ill take sk over any other brand thats what ive used for 55 years cant beat them
LOVE , when Nick does the troubleshooting on the engines that come in . Best Muscle Car Channel on UA-cam...Take care Nick and George.
I love watching experienced guys working, with such effortless confidence. "Just leaks because it's old"? What a crock. I'm glad it found it's way to you Nick. Cheers from Alberta!
I agree, just bs excuses man, it does not leak when Nick rebuilt them.
So if done properly any engine can be running leak free.
Even when they are pushed hard.
There are engine builders and there are engine assemblers...never confuse the two. Only one of them can be both.
Well said.
@@NicksGarage Nick has the PhD.
@@jimmyjambon9206 A few years ago I had a guy ask me how long it takes me to build an engine. I said, "about two-hundred hours". He started to laugh. He told me that he builds 7 engines a day; an 8 hour day; 1 hour for lunch. I said, "oh, what color silicone do you use"? "Orange, blue, black; whatever's handy", he said. I started to laugh as I walked away. He said, "what's so funny"? I laughed louder. He doesn't get it. Never will. JUST ABOUT any moron can slam an engine together in about an hour with an impact gun. That is NOT engine building. Yeah, they're out there. In abundance.
@@victordjinn632 Building an engine requires advanced science, assembling an engine only requires repetitive motion. Most people do not understand what engine building really is.
@@jimmyjambon9206 I built Asian engines for a living for 30 years and it’s not rocket science. It’s all about following the rules which takes time. Most rebuilding failures can be traced back to the builder stepping outside the rules either purposely or by accident. I was fortunate that most Asian engines were quite builder friendly. Stepping into the high performance world is a different animal than building bone stock replacement engines like I did. I built so many Toyota engines over the years that most of the specs are forever burned into my brain.
Just scored a 77 Cordoba today Nick with 41k original miles, 400 4 Bbl lean burn, been sitting in a dry garage in a house since 1992. Going to pull the plugs and soak the cylinders and clean the fuel tank and entire fuel system before even cranking it. Since it's just an overbored 383, great timing with this video
That is a cool car, good score !
@@kellismith4329 wish you could put pictures in UA-cam, the car is a genuine survivor, not on crack in the dashboard, interior perfect gold crush velour, doesn't smell, factory radio, factory lean burn unmolested and intact, ac car, though titled twice (into mom's name after dad passed) the family bought it new in 77. Bought from daughter under POA for 93 year old mom.
I built a 440 a few years ago and it had the same oil leak. Nothing we did stopped or even slowed it down. Long story short, it turned out that the engine started out as a reverse rotation marine engine. The knurling on the rear main was the wrong direction and pushed the oil out of the seal.
How did you fix it?
@@jts9120 Changed the crank.
@@jameswhite3348 cool! I have a 68 440 in a Correct Craft boat.
How long did it take to figure that out. Must have been a head scratcher.
I've heard of scrolling to keep oil away from the seal - but never knurling UNDER the seal - doesn't it abrade the lip?
Goooood evening guys!!!!!! Remember, everybody, THE GASKET MAKES THE SEAL!!!!! I love these teardown videos, you never know what Nick will find: as thorough as he is, if there’s something to BE found, he’ll find it. I know that 383 will be just fine after Nick does his stuff o it. And by the way, George, nice Mail Time sound effects!!!! 😂😂😂 Great week, all!!!!
Gaskets seal for 1-3 years, RTV seals for 75 years...
I'm always impressed by the way you take parts off & put them down carefully in order, not just sling them in a box like some do.
Yes Nick you are correct! Sorry for not putting our names on it or including a letter of appreciation of how you take on all projects as they are your own. Special thanks to you and George. Raven and Gary. Thanks also for not losing your cool taking off that oil pan, that was painful. My Dad would smack me if I did that lol. He always said the gasket makes the seal, as you do. Thanks so much.
Thanks again!
I think it's awesome that you are so willing to teach those of us working on our own vehicles, or other peoples cars. I can't thank you enough. I wish you had this level of knowledge and expertise with the internet working.
Back in the day with the “rope” seal, we just hammered/smashed the rope in place real good and then trimmed at the parting line and never had a problem - and then along came the “improved” plastic type seals..
You should check if the rear seal retainer is contacting the rear main bearing cap. They sometimes don't have enough clearance from the top of the cap, especially since it has an after market crank and retainer
Not sure why this channel popped up in my feed but this is great! I used to have that same engine in a ‘68 Charger that unfortunately got totaled out in ‘85. This brings back so many cool memories of working on it. It was without question my favorite engine/car to work on of all I’ve owned! 👍👍
Welcome aboard!
Thanks!
Earliest memory of a 383, I was 3 or 4 years old, and there was this blue '64 Polara that had the coolest idle I've ever heard. Always have been a fan of the 383 and 340. Had the good fortune years ago to drive a '70 Challenger T/A. Unforgetable!
Stock 383's were pretty mild until the '68 RoadRunner 383 showed up with Magnum heads and Magnum camshaft...
Nick. Such enthusiasm. Such extensive knowledge. Unselfish. Willing to share with others. A true pleasure to behold. If Nick breaks down your engine and re-builds it, you can be sure that it will be better than factory when he is finished. Nick is the real McCoy, a real engine and muscle car specialist. The engine doctor makes a diagnosis again.
Thank you for Nick and George for sharing the tear down. I will stay tuned to see the final diagnosis on the oil leak. “ Here We Go” decal is a nice touch. Great show!!
Nick's garage just gets better and better. It should be compulsory viewing for young mechanics as to the lessons given by Nick about engine work. Appears a previous engine builder didn't seek advice falling into pitfalls, especially in selection of pistons and gaskets. Certainly the over use of synthetic gasket material was shocking. My first thought about rear seal leaking was a damaged housing. Nick the detective has a clue its the crankshaft journal edges, as we used to say, 'out of true.' In any event all will be revealed in the next episode.
I love to watch and listen to Nick while he works on engines, the guy is a fricking legend..
Rffffff
My Industrial Arts auto professor told me in 1973, "the gasket is the gasket, not the silicone". Overhauled my 383 out of my 68 RR there. Car is long gone.
Man I have to agree with you Nick, who ever assembled that engine may have got it together but they didn't really know what they were doing. Also for anyone who would like to know not only does a windage tray help keep oil from splashing on the crank it then in turn helps to keep the oil from becoming aerated and losing it's ability to lubricate. I love watching your show. Takes me back to my childhood working on my late father's 1968 Plymouth Barracuda Formula S before we got into the Wankel rotary cars. While that is my favorite engine, there's nothing like a good ol Mopar big block 🤙
Correct. It also helps free up horsepower.. The ultimate way is to use a windage tray along with a carefully installed crank scraper.
Always interesting seeing you take an engine apart & diagnose what the heck went wrong. Thanks Nick!
If this were my engine at this point, The crank and pistons would go in the scrap barrel and I'd have you make another 426 stroker motor. You brought it to Nick so bomb the credit card and really make something done right!
Now my day has been completely completed thank you Nick and garage 💪🏻😎
Completely welcome.
Thank you so much for being an important member who keeps our never forgotten classic high performance cars alive. I support you.
Never use silicone with a gasket. I’ve also seen the opposite with crappy silicone, it prevents the gasket from bonding to the metal and can actually push the gasket out. Great show!
There's nothing wrong with using a very LIGHT skim coat of silicone with a gasket, but SO many people don't understand what a "skim coat" is... 😕
It's always evident when someone goes crazy with silicone when you pull an engine apart, and find all the extra silicone that has squished out on the inside of the crankcase, and then has worked it's way off, and you find a bunch of silicone "ropes" jammed up against the oil pick-up screen and blocking oil flow. 🤦🏻
Yes, indeed, loose silicone going into places where it shouldn't be. Did that guy do the same thing on the tranny? That could be more bad news.
@@thomasmleahy6218 I would hope NOT! I've never felt the need to use any silicone at all when rebuilding a transmission, except when it's for a very high-performance application and I'll be using a very thick cast aluminum pan that acts as a structural member of the case, THEN I'll forego the pan gasket and use a LIGHT coat of silicone to seal it.
With those heavy, cast, transmission pans, I like to omit the gasket so that the thick pan is in metal-to-metal contact with the trans case to help strengthen things up. If there was a soft gasket in between there, it wouldn't help with increasing strength at all.
I have split a trans case TWICE in the past while drag racing. They didn't split from an internal failure, but rather they split from just pure torque from the hit. It was in a car that had all Poly mounts for the engine and transmission, no motor or mid plates, fully caged, and was in the high 10's with a 1.45 60' time on a 10" slick.. It was an odd failure to have happen twice. Today, I run an aftermarket bellhousing, and have a front and mid motor plates installed. Low 9 second passes, with wheels up launches, no more busted cases.. 🤷🏻
@@davelowets I stopped using silicone years ago except on corners and I spray everything with carburetor cleaner before applying silicone to ensure contact because silicone hates oil. On water pumps and thermostat housings, I use Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket to ensure an absolute seal.
On this job, I would have used a leak detecting dye while it was on the Dyno or before removal, or disassembly.
@@georgerivera9220 Yep. Carb cleaner and starting fluid do really well to remove any residual oil on parts before you put the schmoo on it.
The dye works well to locate hard-to-find leaks. Especially in leaking A/C systems. I buy the dye in a bulk can, and ots safe to dump in any fluid system in an automobile. A little goes a LONG way as far as being able to see the glow with the U.V. light. I've never had to resort to using the goofy yellow glasses that come with the kits to be able to see the glowing dye with just the U.V. light. It's good stuff. . 👌
Greatings from South Carolina Nick! Yeah I think your on to it about that crank! I might also have the line bore checked for mains. I'm feel the same about the silicone any time I see that much I feel the guy doesn't know what he's doing!? Nice show!👍
I really like that Fire Bird on the lift!
She's a looker.
Hey Nick, Kendall will be sure glad his 383 is now in the safest hands ever to get sorted out and rebuilt with No oil leaks and little gasket gue thus running the way it is meant too! Mail time was a real beaut one this time and worth the wait, just loved the model engine complete with spark plugs firing way cool.
Nick's Garage makes Monday evening so much better,Thanks A Bushel.
Tuesday morning here in Australia
Cheers😊
Geiá sou Nick! Your right to be suspicious of someone who silicones the skatá out of every gasket. That'll take forever to clean off and redo correctly. Great detective work spotting the lack on knurling on the crankshaft, the too thick head gasket and low compression deck height job. The good news is that your customer will get back a properly rebuilt engine for his/her pride and joy! Bad news is they paid twice! Thank you for another fun and informative video!
What a great video Nick, I suspect the culprit is indeed the aftermarket crankshaft. I suspect it is likely out of round on the sealing surface. It will be interesting to see what the machinist finds. You have some great fans with some very kind and well-deserved gifts.
Ye-. My bet is rear cs journal out of round. Happens a lot more than you think because very few people really know how to turn a crankshaft correctly.
You can also use the tool to start the plugs and remove them once they are loose enough. The rubber should grip the plug enough to turn.
Nick, I use a putty knife to separate oil pans etc. Keep up the good work.
Thank you Nick for showing what a job is done when it's done right I worked in a lot of garages a lot of people didn't like Perfection they wanted to get the vehicle back on the road they didn't care and that really frustrated me I'm so glad to see you doing the same perfectional work it's an absolute joy to watch you this 74 year old guy can't do the physical work anymore but it is a joy to watch a professional keep up the good work Nick
Thank you, Nick! I am an old guy that learns so much from you tearing down and building my favorite engines!
Glad to help!
a good way to help find leaks, is gently pressurize the whole crankcase with air, using something like a leak-down tester into the PCV/breather/dipstick and plug the other hole.
just be sure to keep the pressure very low and the chances are great of air leaking and blowing bubbles in the process if oil is leaking out.
That's a great idea. I like leak-down testing for the same reason. Instant answers.
conversely, before I pulled anything down, I would have put an old fuel pump/vacuum gauge on the end of the dipstick to check for crankcase pressure first running....
...this reminds me that back in high school (67), I owned a 65 Mustang....it would leak tranny fluid...but only 2 or 3 days out of the week....it generated a lot of head scratching...turned out that there was a crack in the converter and when that crack settled on the "bottom" in it's rotation...I had my leak....love these automotive inventions...love em....
“Gonna do it Nicks way, when we’re done”
He means, “ the right way.”
I started my auto repair profession in a VW shop sometime around 1970. Air cooled VW engines could develop problem oil leaks at the flywheel seal area. On older (or incorrectly machined for a rebuild ) VW engines oil can leak if the front crankshaft bearing (also used along with shims to control crankshaft end play or thrust) is loose in the engine block/case. This defect is not real common but it does happen.
It looks like two different guys worked on the engine assembly. No silicone on the intake but plenty (too much) on the pan. My rule is to never use silicone in a place where it is possible for silicone to be squeezed off and enter the oil. You don't want beads of silicone in your oil. I use very little silicone (if any, water pumps OK, no way for the excess to get in the oil) and I don't have oil leaks.
Nick is a master of his trade! It's great to listen to him explain the do's and don'ts and why. Superior knowledge!
Professor Nick- I always enjoy taking in your lectures. You're obviously a man who knows the game. Thank you for your commitment to excellence.
Geez Nick with all that silicone it’s like remedial first year shop at school. I hate silicone and like you believe in the gasket making the seal. Also being so meticulous that when I go to sleep reviewing the build. This autopsy is a lesson for all the mistakes in engine building. Great Videos Thank You 🙏
Lots of interesting comments and replies!
Nurle direction measurements of seals and crank, location and depth of nurles the seal instalation.
Of course the wrong head gaskets (gaskets for AL heads) etc.
Very interesting indeed!
Hello Nick and all the crew
Hi John.👍
Nothing like a guy who really knows these old MOPAR engines. These engines run on very fine tolerance; one little mistake can cause a major problems. This guys worth his weight in gold.
Great video Nick. I love how you are teaching what to do and not to do. Please keep up the great videos. I am a fan for life.
I’m pissed from jack daniels but I can tell you, Nick is a good old boy. I can tell you.
My favourite quote of Nick is, and I use this now myself, is “that I do not know”
AC Delco makes tracer dye, lights up with a UV light. I mostly use it for small coolant leaks but can come in handy for oil leaks as well. I’m sure you know about it just mentioning it for other people with small leaks that are hard to find.
I like watching Nick work on these Old Mopars but man you are killing me with that 70's elevator JAZZ music.
Im surprised it actually made that much cranking psi with the comp. head gasket and .70 down in the hole. My friend had a RAMCHARGER 4x4 with a fresh rebuilt 400 and asked me to check it out why it made not much power, ran hot, and got horrible gas mileage. First thing I did was a cranking compression check on all 8 cylinders, pressures where between 120 - 130! LOL! I suggested to him that the engine needs to be completely disassemble and be properly blueprinted. He sold the truck a few weeks later.
good man takes care of his clients and takes pride in workman ship and skill of eng. keep up good work.
Dial indicator on the knurling before removing crank. Someone polished that surface?
Exactly, put an indicator on the crank. You'll immediately know if an out of round situation exists. No need to send it to the crank shop. Excessive and unnecessary use of silicone betrays the assembler of this engine as a total hack. Who knows what else lurks inside this motor. Maybe reused stretched head bolts??
The usage of florescent dye is the best means to aid locating source of leaks.
I figured there had to be something wrong with the 383 leaking oil other than the rear seal. I'm sure when the run-out is checked on that crankshaft is checked it will be out of round by .010 or so. Great video George, love your editing. Great gifts at mail time, especially the model engine.
This man is a walking bible of engine rebuilds . Vast wealth of knowledge 👍👍👏
Awsome Monday Nick. Good time to plop a 440 crank and pistons in it.
Good idea. But we want to keep it Genuine 383 matching engine.
@Nick Panaritis . Keep it looking 383 but stroke it out. Either way win win but it's a great time to stroke it
While working as a line tech for Lincoln 1979 we were delivered 8 World cars. 4 escort 4 lynks the 1st one I prepped had a gimungus oil leak at the rear main. I pulled it apart and found the crank seal area had a 1.02ths gouge parallel to the C.S.centerline!!!
Nick youre a 100% quality guy and being 63 I can SO relate to the old school muscle me and my friends grew up with. Really someothing to watch someone who was lucky enough to work in the things he loves, as the old saying goes find a job you love going to and you wont work a day in your life. Best wishes good health and be safe to you and your family.
Thank you.
I think I see a ~1974 Trans Am on a lift at the beginning of the video? This video is right up my alley. Thank you Nick!
Nick, you're a constant in a chaotic world. 383 mopar engines are my favorite. Thanks for being so positive and great.
I appreciate that!
@@NicksGarage When you detail engine autopsy stuff, its great that you mention the details of what's factory and why some things get left out in favor of others. Those details make you stand out over a lot of other channels. You're really helping out the community when you do this......
I gotta say, from just the cars I see in view in his garage, he has very good taste !
Measuring the crankshaft diameter in the seal area to see if it's in spec would be a good idea.
Yes, indeed.
I would have checked crank run-out with an indicator. see if it's egg-shaped right in the block. Somebody else mentioned the direction of the knurls. Good point.
@@gailtaylor1636 Yep, diameter matters, but concentricity matters more.
The guy that is filming you need to get him a raise, and over 90% of the other so called UA-camrs should learn of this guy how you doing it the right way when filming..👍👍👍💖
Wow! Thank you for that.
Thanks Nick and George. I appreciate the work you do and the rest of your team. It's a pleasure tuning in to learn from you all. Thanks again from AZ Frank F.
My approach to cork and paper gaskets on sheet metal valve covers/oil pans, timing covers, seal retainers, water outlet/thermostat housings-3M Weather Strip adhesive to the housing/valve cover/oil pan side and either a finger rubbed grey silicone or preferably a light coating of the Permatex brown aviation goo on the block side. Not always the easiest to clean up on removal but no seepage/wetness and lasts a long time.
Nick , I have had to also put a Speedi-Sleeve on some crankshafts , when the front or rear keeps leaking at the seal . When the seal would actually wear down on the crank where the lip on the seal ran . But with you taking the crank to be rework should solve the problem . But a Speedi- Sleeve can bring the sealing area on the front or rear seal back into spec ...love to findout what you come up with on the crank ...take care .
The Speedy Sleeves that I have seen are one piece and will not fit the rear seal area because of the flywheel flange being much to large. They do work on the front seal area.
@@williambikash6645I have use them on front and back seals. But this was in Industrial applications. On over the road tractors . Thanks for your input . Hope you and family are well .
I love the sound effects of “incoming” packages at mail time. I especially got a chuckle from the Florida package at 1:02:16. Keep up the great videos and the funny sound effects.
True honor to watch this man do his craft,and fortunate to learn from him. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Our pleasure!
The one thing I have always liked about this channel and Nick himself is honesty and integrity! Keep up the great work Nick!
I appreciate that!
Yeah I can tell he gives it straight. I was just saying that to myself earlier
It was great seeing you again at Motorama Nick. The Kowalski and the Hemi display was something to see for sure. And, I got to meet George. I was standing next to him for about a minute until I realized who it was. Great to meet George and have a chat. I'm hoping to get my Challenger to you in the fall for some work...hopefully. Keep up the great videos. Always look forward to seeing them. Hi to George.
Thanks Mike!
Best show on UA-cam, Long Island loves Nick's Garage.
I'm watching the video. My shot in the dark? Bad rings producing a lot of pan pressure and blowing the oil past the seal. Let's see how my detective work pans out...
Nick wanted to give the original builder the benefit of the doubt, but when he found silicone on the head bolts, he finally had to pass judgement.
He's right, of course.
My dad was a ASE Mechanic and I am an Electronic/IT tech with many certs and just because a man claims to be something does not mean anything.
Thanks for watching, John.
Nick, thanks for helping all us gear head learn more about this historic old Mopar engines.
I live in the Philippines and most mechanics here also way over use silicone..they even put it on the radiator hoses..omg
Many years ago I was at Blue Mountain Chrysler and they replaced my straight six Jeep Cherokee engine. Theirs was the only Chrysler dealership that was absolutely excellent to deal with 😊
Always love a good mystery. Nice detective work Nick!
Nick, i went through this years ago. Knurl looked good but on study i realized it was reversed. The block and crank came from a dual engine marine use and the motor came from a Criss Craft and was designed to rotate the other way. It pissed out oil....Live and learn..... Threw the crank away.
A bad engine build will leave any muscle car owner far from thrilled Lucky there was no detonation so it wasn't killed Will it be suitable for recomissioning and reinstallation? Nick is doing an investigation to see if he can avert the owners devastation When a builder uses too much silicone at Nick's Garage hands in the air get thrown The Gasket Makes The Seal you only need a few dabs you ain't gotta reinvent the wheel If you don't have oil splashing back on the crank it's a windage tray you have to thank With it gone performance won't be as strong and that trip to the strip will take twice as long Nick's Garage puts right what is wrong The rear crank seal is causing some consternation and the nurling on the crank is showing signs of deterioration It'll need further attention to avoid apprehension Silicone on the headbolts and the head gasket is way too thick No wonder this 383 didn't have enough kick Another thing Nick always checks is how close the pistons come to the decks Nick's Garage always gets my respects Nick's Garage has such generous warm hearted fans with all the Mail time conributors sending gifts stories and pictures to Nicks hands It's a pleasure to hear about their muscle car plans Thanks Nick and George
With the crank still in the block, use a dial indicator on the knurled area to see of the seal area is out of round or off-center.
We had a 440 once that leaked profusely out the rear main. Turns out we had a marine left hand rotation crank. Those knurls were cut the wrong way. Turned them into oil slingers 😂
I'm an old greasemonkey I don't try to miss any episodes that you.. and yes Nick I seen you in Florida I will never forget you
Man. Some people can F up a wet dream. Good thing that Nick is on the case.
Surprising what we find.
@@NicksGarage Go get 'm Columbo
the aluminum seal retainer is probably available in various crank dia sizes and they didn't double check the dia of the "new crank" and make sure that the retainer was sized for that sealing surface of the replacement crank. Plasti gauge the sealing surface of the retainer and reinstall it... then take it back off and see if the plasti gauge crushed at all. I suspect that the retainer is .020" undersized causing the leak.
The "knurls" are if you're using a "rope seal". It comes like that at the factory. If you're using "neoprene seal", the knurl has to be removed.
This channel should have 1 million subscribers it’s so good !
Let the diagnostics begin
Right on! Here we GO!
JustMoparJoe is who I talk to.
Dana "60" Glass. I was trained that use a gasket sealer with a cork gasket sealed to the valve cover, but not glued to head. Rubber gaskets need no sealant except maybe a dab on corners. Never had problems
As a engine and transmission builder I constantly have jobs come in that have excessive silicone. The best way to remove oil pans, valve covers and other parts with excess silicone is using a 18mm olfa knife with the solid non snap off blades.
I have seen those billet seal retainers machined incorrectly where they did not apply enough pressure to seal with the crankshaft. I eded up putting the seal retainer in my mill and cut a thousandth or two off of it and it sealed perfectly.
It looks like they used arp ultra torque on the head bolts. I use arp ultra torque on just about all head, rod and main bolts regardless of what the oem manufacturer says and I have never had a problem. I do it because it increases the accuracy of the torque rating.
I use mls head gaskets on just about everything due to the superior sealing ability of them.
Anymore I only use silicone in a couple of places where it is needed and use a little anaerobic sealer to dress other gaskets....Love watching what you do.
Anaerobic sealer is only for use in a location where the parts are sealed off from the atmosphere, and will not be receiving any oxygen to allow it to cure.
It's only needed in a very few places, on a very few engines.