Saw this on Reddit a few months ago when Fizzy released it and thought it was a brilliant idea. Sort of like the printed peg boards others have made. Definitely a mod I think I will want to do.
This is a very interesting system. I plan on building a stealthchanger sometime in the future. This could help with the extra PSUs that would be needed.
I’m actually working on a tool changer setup where I’m bringing the electronics out from under the 2.4 and putting them on the back. Once you have multiple tool heads loaded you won’t want to be flipping the printer over. Details of the current work done so far can be found in the discord.
It's definitely a quality of life upgrade if you care about cable management. On a 2.4, due to the deck panel, it's not easy to install FT EMS unless you are building from scratch or doing a complete tear down and rebuild. On other builds, installing EMS post-build isn't as problematic.
I liked the ems when building the k3, didn't think to do a laser cut frame when I converted my v2.4 into a trident. The bottom panel on the 2.4 being acrylic has been a problem for some folks, it's rather melty.
I have a custom ACM deck panel inbound, but this smoked acrylic panel was supplied by LDO with the EMS frame, so I decided to install it. I have some printed plastic clips that should hopefully keep the acrylic warping to a minimum, but when it does, it will just be a bit of work to replace with the ACM panel.
Wish this was around when I built my Voron. Never liked the wiring routing and placement of parts even using wire channels. Might have to try this out when/if I need or do a rebuild.
I highly recommend planning your EMS layout carefully (I did just that in CAD), and making sure you print all of the required parts ahead of your tear down and rebuild.
What an awesome idea to do the base plate as one piece! Could you please share the CAD (or maybe an SVG) to it? I've printed the four-piece plate, but quite hesitant to do the complete teardown of Z motors :-E And good luck with the rebuild! Your videos are great inspiration :) I've rebuilt my 0.2 to a boxed version after watching you progress with Pandora.
Not my CAD to share, you would have to ask Fizzy himself. Not sure what agreement he has yet with LDO, as they were interested in possibly turning this into a product.
Thanks for the video. I hadn't heard of it until now. If you didn't want to remove the z motors couldn't you remove the deck panel and access it from the top? Remove the bed, rails and then the deck panel. Just a thought... Syd
I wonder about grounding. I mean on my Voron 2.4 the DIN rails are grounded via the frame to the green/yellow ground wire. I assume it's not really an issue? It's basically my main concern. If it's okay without that grounding that my concern is gone of course. Edit: I was to fast, you already talked about it. Think I'm gonna print and install it and ground the SSR via a wire to frame somehow.
I always have a protective earth connection running to the SSR in my builds. What I wasn't sure of is if the SSR requires the metal as a heatsink. If I have a fan at or near the SSR, I feel like it shouldn't ever be in danger of overheating.
@@oldguymeltsplastic Honestly, I haven't used it myself yet - don't yet see the need to replace my Honeycomb Storage Wall with it, but it allows for screwing the connectors in, so that should offer a good way to fasten things. There's also many other ways to fasten stuff to it, which is what makes it "multi". Of course, that means the boards have to be 3d printed: you cannot laser-cut screw-threads, but you can then add the connectors from the accessible side without having to get behind the board, if you ever need to add or move something ...
I am not seeing the single piece file (SVG or otherwise) to cut with a laser. Where did you find it? I am building my first voron, and now is the time to get this part installed before I get too deep into the build.
Nice intro to FT EMS Steph. Looking forward to seeing your printer once it’s installed.
You and me both!
Was already planning on using the EMS on my upcomming trident build. Cool to see a video about it!
You're welcome!
Saw this on Reddit a few months ago when Fizzy released it and thought it was a brilliant idea. Sort of like the printed peg boards others have made. Definitely a mod I think I will want to do.
He has created frames (the hex grid part) for many different printer builds and also in generic squares and rectangles.
This is a very interesting system. I plan on building a stealthchanger sometime in the future. This could help with the extra PSUs that would be needed.
I’m actually working on a tool changer setup where I’m bringing the electronics out from under the 2.4 and putting them on the back. Once you have multiple tool heads loaded you won’t want to be flipping the printer over. Details of the current work done so far can be found in the discord.
Thanks. I've seen this before but never gave it much thought. Seeing it on video changes the game. Cheers.
It's definitely a quality of life upgrade if you care about cable management. On a 2.4, due to the deck panel, it's not easy to install FT EMS unless you are building from scratch or doing a complete tear down and rebuild.
On other builds, installing EMS post-build isn't as problematic.
I liked the ems when building the k3, didn't think to do a laser cut frame when I converted my v2.4 into a trident. The bottom panel on the 2.4 being acrylic has been a problem for some folks, it's rather melty.
I have a custom ACM deck panel inbound, but this smoked acrylic panel was supplied by LDO with the EMS frame, so I decided to install it. I have some printed plastic clips that should hopefully keep the acrylic warping to a minimum, but when it does, it will just be a bit of work to replace with the ACM panel.
Wish this was around when I built my Voron. Never liked the wiring routing and placement of parts even using wire channels. Might have to try this out when/if I need or do a rebuild.
I highly recommend planning your EMS layout carefully (I did just that in CAD), and making sure you print all of the required parts ahead of your tear down and rebuild.
Steph, I would love to have a one piece FMS! Let Jason know we need this
The message has been passed along! ;-)
What an awesome idea to do the base plate as one piece! Could you please share the CAD (or maybe an SVG) to it? I've printed the four-piece plate, but quite hesitant to do the complete teardown of Z motors :-E
And good luck with the rebuild! Your videos are great inspiration :) I've rebuilt my 0.2 to a boxed version after watching you progress with Pandora.
Not my CAD to share, you would have to ask Fizzy himself. Not sure what agreement he has yet with LDO, as they were interested in possibly turning this into a product.
Thanks for the video. I hadn't heard of it until now. If you didn't want to remove the z motors couldn't you remove the deck panel and access it from the top? Remove the bed, rails and then the deck panel. Just a thought... Syd
Yeah, that might be possible as well.
That looks like a really cool system
It gives you the most flexibility in how you lay out your components.
I wonder about grounding. I mean on my Voron 2.4 the DIN rails are grounded via the frame to the green/yellow ground wire. I assume it's not really an issue? It's basically my main concern. If it's okay without that grounding that my concern is gone of course.
Edit: I was to fast, you already talked about it. Think I'm gonna print and install it and ground the SSR via a wire to frame somehow.
I always have a protective earth connection running to the SSR in my builds. What I wasn't sure of is if the SSR requires the metal as a heatsink. If I have a fan at or near the SSR, I feel like it shouldn't ever be in danger of overheating.
Just wondering: why not have a multiboard rather than just hexagon holes where you have to put something behind them to connect stuff to it?
I haven't used multi board before. Does it hold well where the multi board is horizontal, and the objects are hanging from it?
@@oldguymeltsplastic Honestly, I haven't used it myself yet - don't yet see the need to replace my Honeycomb Storage Wall with it, but it allows for screwing the connectors in, so that should offer a good way to fasten things. There's also many other ways to fasten stuff to it, which is what makes it "multi". Of course, that means the boards have to be 3d printed: you cannot laser-cut screw-threads, but you can then add the connectors from the accessible side without having to get behind the board, if you ever need to add or move something ...
I am not seeing the single piece file (SVG or otherwise) to cut with a laser. Where did you find it? I am building my first voron, and now is the time to get this part installed before I get too deep into the build.
What color/brand is the pink filament?
Sparta3D Sparkle ASA Purple Mist
@@oldguymeltsplastic oh is it not really pink in person?
Looks like a gridfinity answer to a question nobody asked. I'm out.
Fair point. To each their own...