I watched this video when I first got an Ender 3 and was a little bit mystified by it because I didn't know anything yet. I knew I eventually wanted to replace the screen and make it wireless but wasn't sure what all I needed. Having watched videos and experimented for months on end now I pulled this video back up and everything that you're saying makes sense suddenly! Loving your videos, keep up the good work!
hello just a heads up to anybody thinking about touch screens the MKS TFT24 is a really good and cheap touch screen its only about 20 bucks on aliexpress and I really love that the sd card is 90 degrees to the screen and not under it the TFT24 has almost the same features as the TFT28 too the only thing it doesn't have is the 12v power input but if your using a gen L or any MKS board really it works just fine
You are such a valuable resource for new people to the hobby. I really thank you for the time you take putting these videos together. You speak clearly, and generally show us everything perfectly.
Finally got my TFT28 yesterday and the WiFi module. Not sure what to do with the wifi yet, but it was only $10, so I got it as well. My main problem with the reprap screen was viewing angles and the LCD is much easier to see. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks to this video and the related one on the MKS Gen L upgrade for the Ender 3, I've completed these upgrades and gave them a spin last night. All in all, it works well, but I am going to be going back to the original screen with click-knob for two reasons: 1. In order to reflash the firmware on the MKS Gen L, it's necessary to disconnect the TFT28. If I leave it connected, it corrupts the firmware upload and renders the MKS Gen L inert. Fortunately, once the touchscreen is disconnected, reflashing works just fine and everything recovers nicely. 2. The touchscreen doesn't completely replace the functionality of the original display, or, more specifically, the click-knob. After completing a PID autotune, Marlin pauses saying "paused for user". At this time, it's expecting the user to click the knob to acknowledge the autotune completion. For as little as I actually use the printer's console (versus Octoprint either via an attached Raspberry Pi touchscreen or remotely), I'm not going to be that upset at losing the otherwise cool touchscreen.
Can’t wait for the TMC stepper driver video. Unfortunately there’s a lot of fragmented information out there regarding them and it appears that implementation of them varies by printer. I’ve been waiting for your video to hopefully perform my MKS board upgrade, EZABL and Pi all at once while I have everything torn apart.
BL Touch > EZABL every time, don't even waste your time on that. BL Touch works on all surfaces, its a mechanical switch, weighs waaaaay less, so it doesn't weigh down the moving part of the printer (adding weight can put a strain on the belts and introduce artifacts).
I copied his video but used 2208 drivers. (i think you set them inside marlin. I didn't how ever. I set them all to 0.8 except the extruder to 0.9. ) They're are damn near silent and the best upgrade i ever did.
Being a Patreon subscriber I want to thank you for this. I had made a 12v pigtail using a 24 to 12v stepdown to run the screen, thanks for the jumper config to allow it to run off the board. I read so much info and never found that. Like others I have a set of 2130’s I’ve been researching and look forward to adding these to fray. You rock Michael, thanks for all your videos
Thank so much for doing this. You have just given me what I was looking for with these videos that you have done on this particular kind of touch screen and the mks board. Very much appreciated.
Thanks Michael! I've printed the Case out but was thinking of adding the display and TMC 2130s. Looking forward to more videos on unlocking the potential of the maker base board.
I get my Ender 3 pro in 3 weeks but because of you I ordered this LCD and MKS board.You do the most sophisticated Ptojrcts for 3D printers Thank you from Germany Frankfurt/Main Main that is a river what goes into the Rhein River. I knoe I'm nerdy but I like it this way.
Awesome video, thank you for sharing. Im jumping in this with your videos as a guide. :) excited to see the 2130's as well. Awesome that you went with a touch screen too.
Things I have learnt since doing this... The TFT screen shares the serial port with the USB port on the MKS GEN L. Originally, I thought this was creating the Checksum errors I was getting but narrowed it down to the fact I had the WiFi module installed. Removing the wifi module has cured these errors. You still need to disconnect the screen to do Marlin Firmware updates though
I am using Repetier Server... I can use the display for some things while printing through Repetier... some commands get the CRC error but I have not had a print stop. Might be a difference between Repetier Server and Octoprint.
@@jfkerekes Narrowed it down to the WiFi module causing errors. Using the screen at the same time as printing from Octoprint/Repetier will cause checksum errors as 2 devices are trying to use the same serial bus..
Suggestion- plz consider making an updated ender 3 video to include references to all the different mods/changes. Some people have different problems and experiences and I believe that would be helpful. As in if you encounter this problem take a look at this video. Thanks for putting these videos together.
Great instructions as always Michael. Always good to learn more stuff. Looking forward to your TMC 2130 video. it will help me decide which board to upgrade my CR-10s4 to. I am leaning towards the Duet Maestro, but I would like to have TMC 2130 drivers and get the sensorless homing, but it's not set in stone. Looking forward to seeing your new studio.
For anybody who can not get this to work (like me). Once you have modified the custom button Icons and the Config file. You must copy the mks_pic directory with your modified bmp-custom(1-7).bmp files in it out of the Images/Win8Style/English directory, directly onto the SD card. In my case all files were stored under Images and it could not find the Icon .bin file(s). So in your root directory there actually needs to be a directory on your SD card called mks_pic. After 4.5 hours, I finally figured it out by searching other tutorials and reading the manufacturers documentation. After all that, I am just not sure it was worth implementing the Custom buttons. Functionality, seems very limited (and there is no direct feedback as to if anything happens...that I can see; Other built-in button "presses" actually accomplish something visible). A lot of things get missed, when the "narrator" speaks at 300 words per minute (or speeds up the video so you have to watch it 6000 times to follow). And of course if the "narrator" slows it down, there will be 1 out of 1,000,000 people who will complain about that. :-)
Great video. You may want to redo this one though to slow down just a bit and explain more of what your doing. Got a feeling your gonna get hit with a shit ton of questions on this one. I followed along fine but a noob may have a bit of trouble. But as always great video. Very informative.
Yeah but, how do you think a noob learns how to do this stuff. Not all but most of the 3d printer owners are tinkerers and alot cant afford to take it to a pro. So yeah your only gonna learn by doing it. So videos like this maybe a bit slower and more detailed for the noobs is all of what the 3d community is about. This channel is typically extremely well and detailed about fixing, modding and pushing a printer to the limits. This channel is an invaluable resource to the 3d printing community and for the noob who just wants better from their printer but cant afford an arm and a leg to make it happen. Not saying your wrong. Just saying most makers are exactly that "makers". We tinker tweek mod and push the limits till we reach that point were we are happy. Even when we have no clue what we are doing and then we you tube it for answers cause somebody out there does know. So i never discourage a noob from taking that next step. Otherwise a noob will always be a noob and never learn and grow as a maker. Yeah they are gonna screw up along the way but most important is to learn grow and become better at what you do. Videos like this simply push in a positive direction to help others avoid common mistakes. So in that aspect i disagree with the whole dont touch if you dont know mentality.
I just finished the whole MKS gen l with tft32 and tmc2208 stepper divers, thank you for your videos , everything went great but my temp bounce even at idle, you had the same problem I thought I seen in one of you videos but I can seem to find it and thanks again
mks_config_EN.txt needs to be renamed to mks_config.txt without doing this causes no communication to the board. Hope this helps someone else as this caused me a grief for a while.
As always there is always something missing in the description and also I found that to hook it up to the Melzi stock board. you have to change from 5V to 12V and supply an external power supply. if it weren't for your recommendation on the config file I'd still be pulling my hair out.
I did this with success and was able to see changes to the firmware, but the issue I'm having is the board is no longer communicating with the screen :( like when I home the axes, it doesnt do it :(
An important thing to note in this setup is that the MKS TFT connects to the same serial port as the USB adapter and can cause communication problems if you print with another host such as your pc or Octoprint. This problem gets much worse if you add the MKS wifi module. If you want to use this screen and a USB host, Be sure to power cycle the screen and DO NOT touch the the screen AT ALL before or during a print from the external host. I personally see these as more of a downgrade than an upgrade, but they can be an easy way to add a filament runout sensor and power loss recovery for people who only print from an SD card. If MKS would release the source code, the community could make this into a nice addition to any printer, with proper integration into marlin and other firmwares, and utilizing one of the other available serial ports on the controller, similar to the work done on the ADVi3++ project for the Wanhao printers. For right now I'd stick with the smart controller. As always, I enjoy your videos and thank you for the hard work that you put into making them. I don't want to come off as being negative, I just want to highlight some of the drawbacks that I had found with this unit. I recently bought a Bibo2 touch that came with the MKS TFT2.8 and replacing it with a reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller was one of the first things I did to it. It also came with the MKS Gen L board, and I will be using those for other projects in the future. It is a very capable board for a very low price.
Also you just need to check the MKS github page i have had a few MKS displays and the firmware is terrible on them, the MKS response on github is even worse. Also by the time you buy MKS Gen L + TMC + MKS TFT etc you could just buy an Einsy Rambo + Standard 12864 LCD alot better board and works well in the Ender 3.
I bought the MKS+Driver+Touchscreen that you have linked in your MKS upgrade video. The description was wrong and it does NOT include the TFT32 that it pictured. It has been fixed on Amazon, but your link still says "touch LCD". You should fix that. That disappointment aside, your instructions were extremely helpful.
Hey Michael, that is some cool upgrade! Hope you washed the speaker thoroughly.^^The WiFi functionality, full size SD-Card slot and the touch screen are pretty tempting. And overall this upgrade is a lot cheaper than buying a Raspberry Pi with the original touch display. If I remember right, such a setup is also used in the JG Aurora A5's. Can you use this display also with the standard Creality boards? They also run on 5V and should have the same display connector. Thank you for that video. So much info in such a short clip and still well explainded. Awesome!
I installed this screen and an MKS Gen L following your guide and using your Ender 5 firmware. The homing and move axis features are not working on the screen. If I try to move the axis there is no response. If I try to home, it brings the extruder all the way to the front center and starts ramming into the bed (the BL Touch is off the edge). Any ideas?
Hello, first congratulations on your channel, although my English is very bad I usually watch your videos, would you be so kind to share the TFT settings with the icons that you used in the video?
I do not want to sound ungrateful because your videos have helped me several times, but I see a problem that is repeated in several of your videos is you go very fast and you skip many steps and it is not a problem of just pausing the video. This is very evident when you are following along making the changes you are doing, and not when you are just watching the video. If the objective of your channel is Teaching Tech to people who does not know about this or is learning, this is something you should improve. I hope you do not take it the wrong way and only as a constructive criticism. Thanks.
@@@restopesto9448 You didn't get it. Isn't about pause or rewind as I stated before, it's about skipping steps or information and you only notice when you're following along. The first time I only watched the video and I think it was great, then when I was upgrading my ender 3 following the instructions I realized the skipping steps, and it's not only on this video, in several of his videos is the same thing... at the very end I have to watch other videos on youtube and forums to complete the upgrade.
So I've got the MKS GEN L and TFT28 installed along with the BLTouch. It runs through all of the startup and bed leveling but now how do adjust the Z offset. The nozzle is too high off the print bed.
Í have an update coming on that but you can setup custom buttons to move the offset up and down: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html See their example at the bottom of the page. I had five buttons: 0.05 & 0.1 movements up and down, plus an M500 button to save the new offset.
I got the Flsun QQ , I did the auto bad calibration. When the printing process starts I do not have the live Z control buttons on the TFT screen. The firmware type: MKS tft ver. 3.0.1 The manufacturer instruction of how to flush the firmware are in Chinese, from what I understood I have to copy the updated files on the SD card & the process will be done automatically when inserting I will appreciate any guidance were to find the correct files. Thanks.
Michael, Since upgrading to the new MKS Gen L board as well as the TFT32 I really miss ability to fine adjust the Z offset that is native to the Ender 3 controller board. Is there any way to incorporate this command to allow me to fine adjust the Z offset + or - using the TFT32? Thanks for all your help. I've followed most of your upgrades to my Ender 3 since I started in the 3D printing world last October. Your channel has been the most help of any other channel.
Thank you for this video and touching on custom buttons. It gave me an idea. Currently, I don't have any buttons for babystepping on the Ender-3 I upgraded to use MKS GEN V1.4 and TFT32, even though I set Marlin up to allow babystepping. So, I'm going to make custom buttons. M290 Z0.1; to move z up. M290 Z-0.1; to move z down. And then M500 to hopefully save the setting for the next time I print. I have been using M92 Zx.x in my G-Code, but it's not consistent for some reason. And, I like to share G-Code between different printers (Ender-3 and Ender-5) and the G92 command messes up the level between them. If you know of a fix or how you work around it, I'd be interested to hear it.
I just got my ender 3 pro a few weeks ago and I watched a lot of your upgrade videos. I bought mks gen L 1.4 and stepper drivers, tft28 screen, bltouch, and raspberry pi octoprint and was wandering if you will have a video that shows how to install everything together along with firmware instructions. I would like to find a 3d printed case for the mks gen l 1.4 that works for ender 3 pro.
Great video! I'm probably going to do this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro. Question, and apologies if you've already answered... Is there a custom back cover for this display, with slots for the SD-card, etc?
Hi, thanks for these videos, they are invaluable. I would like to change my main board to the skr 1.3 which looks a lot simpler to mess about with the stepper drivers than the mks gen l. Is it possible to use the tft28 or tft32 with the skr 1.3 board? I’m assuming it is as I’m sure I saw it in one of your videos when you were talking about the drivers? Thank you in advance.
5 років тому+3
I'm thingking on buying the ender 3 pro only for your videos ^_^U Here I have a local offer so the pro only costs me 40€ more than the non pro and I think the extra wide on the base rail is a good think to have. And the idea of having TMC stepper drivers is very interesting. I was hesitating between this one and the Geetech A10m, only for the dual extruder, but with the mks board and having the posibility on having a dual extruder on the ender 3 pro in a future I think it's a better option (better bearings, power supply and community, I think it's a must have)
Hi, thanks for the cool tutorial! what are your thoughts on the mks tft2.4 and ramps1.4? I had trouble getting it to turn on and I was wondering if there was a 5v/12v jumper I missed
Would this upgrade work with the stock Ender 3 board? I’ve upgraded my Ender 3 with a TH3D EZABL, would the upgrade be compatible with it? How will I baby step? Thanks!
I've bought an Ender 3 Pro and SKR E3 Mini board and their touch display. I did the main board swap and installed the display with no problem, but I have *not* been able to find how to add the extra cables/connections (which ones and where do they go) to enable the touch screen and USB and SD cards on the display board. Do you have a video on that, or can you point me to a document that shows it? Thank you for your great series of videos!
The "Remove seal after washing" is for the factory. The entire circuit board needs to be washed to remove residue so you can assume the board is washed and all that needs to be done is remove the seal. The seal isn't removed at the factory because its a waste of time/ unnecessary or they don't care. Advising people to wash the speaker is not a good idea.
Hello, Very interesting. Would it be possible to hook-Up a MKS TFT32 to a Ramps 1.4 ? I see conflicting Info on the Web. But the Software is the same, it seems only to be a difference in Screen Size ? Thanks and keep up the good work. efbe
This is really cool! So was the main board upgrade. There are so many cool upgrades for the Ender 3 - BUT I can’t help but wonder, if you took the initial purchase price and add on the total cost of all these upgrades, is there a better printer that you could buy for the same amount?
was thinking the same, with the new mainboard, screen and soon new motors, there isn't much left from a ender 3 besides the frame and screws. Even if a comparable printer would be a little bit more expensive, you habe it all in one package guranteed to work and don't have to tinker around. Which some might like, but if you really like that might aswell build your own custom printer.
Hi Michael, I'm following your videos quite a time now, and did follow some of your turorials. Therefore I have bought once the MSK TFT28 and now I upgraded my Ender 3 with an SKR Mini E3 V1.2. Is it possible to use the MSK TFT28 with the SKR Mini E3 and if it works how does it work :) Thanks in advance for your advice. BR Michael as well ;)
You know you might be one ☝️ of best and smarties man on the 3D Ender. But you might want slow it down just a little for newbies like me and others. Love your videos keep up the great work that you are doing my friend
I am using the MKS TFT35 version atm. But how do i Babystep for my BLTouch and how do i save it in the firmware using that TFT35 Screen. The firmware for the TFT35 differs from the TFT28 i think since i cant use the retro version. I havent tried but i guess it cant be done since there are not any such examples.
Michael, I have been watching your videos for quite some time. They have helped me tremendously and building my current machine which is a modded Ender 5. I would like to use the MKS TFT 28 as my main display. I found that it lacks many functions that the stock display has. I'm trying to figure out how to do more with this display, ie adding bltouch, Z probe offset eeprom settings and a few other options. It would be nice if the display would just read everything from the printer but I know it acts as its own separate entity. But is it possible to add the settings as part of the actions that can be used from the display?
Thanks for all the awesome info. You put a lot of effort into your videos, really appreciate it. Would you be able to share the custom images you created? I don't have photoshop so can't edit
Hi, Thanks for the videos on upgrading to a MKS GEN L and the TFT screen. You showed you have also a bl touch in your setup. I have already upgraded my CR10 using TMC2130 in SPI mode. Nice and silent, with sensorless homing on the X and Y. I also configured a bl touch . I could not find the option "babysteps" on the new TFT display. With this useful option you can make small adjustments in z-heigth while starting a print. For now it only accesable by double clicking the button on the original CR10 display. Does anybody know how to get to the babystep-option on the MKS boards? Best regards Rob
Rob Huurman I’m having this same issue on my ender did you ever figure this out? My nozzle is just a bit too close to my bed and would like to babystep it up but I see no option to use this feature on my first layer while printing. I am running a gen l bltouch and tft3.2 like you
Audio Philes . Hi, I've hooked up both the TFT and the original display to the MKS Gen L. Most of the time the TFT-display is used. Babysteps for finetuning a print that's just starting are adjusted on the original display. Make sure to enable "CR10 display" in Marlin, otherwise only the TFT is functional. If someone knows how to get to "babysteps" on the MKS Gen L, please inform us. Rob
Would you prefer this set-up you have been detailing over say a smoothie board? I'm new to 3d printing. I have yet to Purchase a 3-D printer my plan is to by the ender3, do some upgrades and use that to print the pieces necessary to make something like a tronxy 500mm core xy machine. Being a machinist i can make most of the parts with the exception of complex fan ducts ect. I would like to use nice linear rails, ball screws and smoothie board for a hopefully more ridgid, accurate machine.
Thank you for making these videos, I Really appreciate them. I have a Enders 3 Pro and upgraded the mother board to Version 4.2.7 and have added BLtouch which I have yet to get working.( two Magnetic bases holed ).Can you fit a touch screen to this motherboard and is there a lot software configuration to do. Cheers. Stay Safe.
Warning for Octoprint/Octopi users contemplating this upgrade: I discovered after buying the MKS TFT35 that the TFT modules monopolize serial communications, preventing USB communication with Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi, or control via USB from a PC - see github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TFT/issues/138 and samuelpinches.com.au/blab/makerbase-mks-tft-lcd-tft28-problems/ for details. in the Github issue, MKS tech support declared "USB and TFT serial ports are shared and cannot be controlled at the same time.", so unless there's a workaround (Michael?), you'll have to choose between TFT + SD card or LCD screen + Octoprint. This also means the MKS power-off and auto-shutoff modules that I bought are also unusable, because they are controlled by the TFT module... sad day. I will stick with Octoprint for now.
I don't have that problem. One of my patrons did and concluded that adding a MKS wifi module caused this problem as they were also able to run Octoprint and the MKS TFT at the same time.
Moti Landes When you solder components to a circuit board, it gets pretty dirty. For that reason it is cleaned in a bath of water and soap. Ultrasonic sound waves are used to "scrub" the circuit board. Most components like resistors, capacitors, microchips etc. can be washed this way without a problem, but some others, like the speaker, are not "waterproof". So they are sealed to prevent the water from getting inside and this seal needs to be removed. Some manufacturers don't do this (probably because it's cheaper) so you have to remove it yourself.
Hi tnx for good Description... a question... I have Rumba+ board and 3 extruder & 1 nozzle and TFT 28 LCD. How add extruder num 3 on my TFT configuration...!? (plz help me I Really needed).
Hi, I was very interested in the touchscreen and ordered one to work with a ramps 1.4 board, but... Updating and connecting no problem, but the TFT28 won't connect to the printer, a humble (modified) Tronxy X1. Nothing reacts. (Yes, I connected the TFT28 with a separate 12V supply after changing the Jumper.) The strange thing is that there must be a sort of connection, because it reads the current Temp, an if I preheat via Octoprint the go-to temperature is also displayed. I tried to fing some info on the internet, it seems that there are a lot of people have the same problem, but I didn't find a solution. Can You shed maybe some lite in the darkness ? Thanks anyway, always looking forward to Your next Video efbe..
Hello! First of all that a lot for your videos, very helpfull tutorials! I have made this setup: MKS Gen L and this same TFT. The problem I'm having is when I set my slicer (Cura 4.4) to stop at a certain height the printer stops, but I cant re-start the print again. I have tried different things and nothing works. Can you please help or make a quick video about it? Regards
Great video! Went off to find a Canadian supplier for the TFT28 then came across ads for the MKS TFT35, any thoughts on that display vs the TFT28? A bundle available on AliExpress with a filament runout detector is about CDN $64. The TFT35 features WiFi, power cut detection, and auto power off - very compelling features! But is it compatible with the Ender 3 + MKS Gen L board? I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering it...
Can we add babystep z as a custom button? I don't want to keep the stock screen AND this one, what would the command be to do z down .250 and separately up .250? I assume that's really all I'd need as two custom buttons right?
Hi Machael, I love these videos, you make my life so easy, just a heads up on printing from sd card using the touch screen. I have found that if i have ether my PC or Pi connected to the mks board the touch will not proceed to print from the sd card. I have set the baud rate on the touch and mks board both to 115200 and still no joys. I did not know this was the case until today when i was installing another of my ender 3s with this upgrade today. I wonder if you have found this to be a bug and or know of a work around. 'My TMC2130 1.1 Drivers are sitting on my desk waiting for your install video' Thanks in advance! Craig
@@TeachingTech Hi Michael, It appears to be working as it starts heating the bed and then the hot end but doesn't actually starts printing. I have this on both the 24" display with front sd card slot and the 32 inch with side sd card slot. So it appears to work but does not follow through with the task.
Would the TFT32 also fit on the Ender 3's console panel? Also, I'm very excited to see the TMC2130 video. I hear you can enable it to have sensorless endstops? That's quite cool :P
All of the TFT models up through the TFT35 have the same board size (110x65mm as I recall) so should fit the stock enclosure. The stock screen opening is 3.5" diagonal so the TFT35 should fit (that's why Michael needed a spacer for a good fit with the smaller 2.8" screen). The TMC2130's have sensorless endstops, but if you step up to the 2208's they do not.
I have MKS SGEN L and MKS TFT35 V1.0... I've done the firmware, but the "machine settings" menus don't show any text after updating firmware. Any Ideas? thanks
I have an Creality CR-3040S with a MSK TFT 32_L 4.0 display, but when I upgraded the Marlin firmware of the printer the display stopped interacting with the printer. The only clues I have been able to observe are in the Pronterface console: echo:Unknown command: "SáM105" echo:Unknown command: "C{%¡¥)M105" echo:Unknown command: "sáM105" It seems that the Display is trying to send M105 to the printer, but ends up appending strange characters so they become non-understandable. Could this relate to some language issues with English and Chinese character sets conflicting and how would that come about ?
@@TeachingTech The baudrate is set to 115200 in Marlin and in the MKS TFT32 display firmware, also that setting works fine to connect using Pronterface - unlikely the issue here.
Solved the issue by flashing the display using the original firmware supplied by Creality. It turns out that uploading a new Marlin firmware to the printer, also does something (brakes it) to the MKS display firmware even though it is a totally separate unit. I did not know one upload could affect the other.
That's awesome. That was one disappointing thing with the Ender 3s. Would this work with the stock board? Also did you see that Creality has an official BL Touch solution now with some sort of ISP to burn fw to it. However, from my research they are using Merlin 1.16 so I wanted to know how would I go about updating that to 1.19 since the bootloader will be available.
i have done the motherboard upgrade, tft28 display upgrade, and the raspberry pi upgrade... everything works but heating the bed.... it reads the temp of the bed and hot end and it can work the hot end perfectly fine but the bed will not work.... neither the display nor octoprint can communicate to the bed and for that reason i can't print because it gives an error for i guess timing out on heating up.... please help
Just upgraded my Ender 3 with the Bigtree SKR Mini E3. works fine with original display. I bought the Makerbase MKS TFT28 V9 but the ribben cables are different. 10 pin on main bd and 8 pin on the display. How do I get them hooked up??? Or did I buy the wrong display????
So I have a question I bought this and an MKS GEN L board for my Ender 3. I was told that all I would have to do to load the firmware for the Ender would be to load its Firmware.bin file from the SD slot. But when I load up the screen comes on but I don't see anything happen is there anyway I know that the firmware has loaded the SD card acts as though there are no files and nothing is read. When I put another SD card in with an STL it doesn't see the STL this leads me to believe the SD Card reader might be bad unless I am missing something. Thanks for any help you can provide.
So I have the mks gen l, Tft 3.2 and bltouch. I’m having an issue with setting the bltouch everything is dialed in and working as it should however, setting the z offset either up or down during the first layer like on the factory main board is not accessible with this screen is there anyway to enable this functionality?
How are you handling M600 filament runout and color changes without the encoder that you removed? I just had to make substantial firmware modifications to pull it off!
I currently have a MKS TFT24 on a makertech proforge 2s dual. It hasn’t been working well for me.(lots of glitches) Will this conversion video work on that? Or do you have other suggestions?
Any way to connect the TFT28 directly to the stock board? i don't mind recrimping connectors or soldering but it would be nice to have a tutorial on how to use the tft28 with the stock board
Michael, I';ve watched all your videos on upgrading the Ender 3, my first 3D printer. I have applied most of the upgrades you have shown including the new touch display and a MKS GEN L board although I installed the TFT32 display. I've noticed that when the print finishes the Z axis raises out of the way and the print bed goes to the rear of the printer. The bed location with the new upgrade is reversed from the stock Ender 3 where the bed moved to the front of the printer after the completion of a print. Is the any way to get the bed to move forward again after the print has finished? I know this may not seem like an important item but I kind of got use to the bed moving forward. At 70 years old I am kind of set in my ways and I like things the way they were. Addition: OK, What the heck just happened. The very next print I did on the Ender 3 had the bed go forward once it finished printing. Is it magic? It looks like the bed moves forward or back after finish print depending on the position of the print. I don't know for sure. Pretty crazy or should it do that?
I watched this video when I first got an Ender 3 and was a little bit mystified by it because I didn't know anything yet. I knew I eventually wanted to replace the screen and make it wireless but wasn't sure what all I needed. Having watched videos and experimented for months on end now I pulled this video back up and everything that you're saying makes sense suddenly! Loving your videos, keep up the good work!
hello just a heads up to anybody thinking about touch screens the MKS TFT24 is a really good and cheap touch screen its only about 20 bucks on aliexpress and I really love that the sd card is 90 degrees to the screen and not under it the TFT24 has almost the same features as the TFT28 too the only thing it doesn't have is the 12v power input but if your using a gen L or any MKS board really it works just fine
You are such a valuable resource for new people to the hobby. I really thank you for the time you take putting these videos together. You speak clearly, and generally show us everything perfectly.
Finally got my TFT28 yesterday and the WiFi module. Not sure what to do with the wifi yet, but it was only $10, so I got it as well. My main problem with the reprap screen was viewing angles and the LCD is much easier to see. Thanks for all you do!
Thanks to this video and the related one on the MKS Gen L upgrade for the Ender 3, I've completed these upgrades and gave them a spin last night. All in all, it works well, but I am going to be going back to the original screen with click-knob for two reasons:
1. In order to reflash the firmware on the MKS Gen L, it's necessary to disconnect the TFT28. If I leave it connected, it corrupts the firmware upload and renders the MKS Gen L inert. Fortunately, once the touchscreen is disconnected, reflashing works just fine and everything recovers nicely.
2. The touchscreen doesn't completely replace the functionality of the original display, or, more specifically, the click-knob. After completing a PID autotune, Marlin pauses saying "paused for user". At this time, it's expecting the user to click the knob to acknowledge the autotune completion.
For as little as I actually use the printer's console (versus Octoprint either via an attached Raspberry Pi touchscreen or remotely), I'm not going to be that upset at losing the otherwise cool touchscreen.
Can’t wait for the TMC stepper driver video. Unfortunately there’s a lot of fragmented information out there regarding them and it appears that implementation of them varies by printer. I’ve been waiting for your video to hopefully perform my MKS board upgrade, EZABL and Pi all at once while I have everything torn apart.
BL Touch > EZABL every time, don't even waste your time on that. BL Touch works on all surfaces, its a mechanical switch, weighs waaaaay less, so it doesn't weigh down the moving part of the printer (adding weight can put a strain on the belts and introduce artifacts).
I copied his video but used 2208 drivers. (i think you set them inside marlin. I didn't how ever. I set them all to 0.8 except the extruder to 0.9. )
They're are damn near silent and the best upgrade i ever did.
jake360flip So basically plug and play minus vref voltage change?
@@jake360flip I'm currently in the process of doing the same to mine apart from I'm running mine in UART mode for the best of both worlds.
@@Obee270 Depends which 2208 you get but you might need to change the direction of your stepper motors but other than that yes.
Being a Patreon subscriber I want to thank you for this. I had made a 12v pigtail using a 24 to 12v stepdown to run the screen, thanks for the jumper config to allow it to run off the board. I read so much info and never found that. Like others I have a set of 2130’s I’ve been researching and look forward to adding these to fray. You rock Michael, thanks for all your videos
Thank so much for doing this. You have just given me what I was looking for with these videos that you have done on this particular kind of touch screen and the mks board. Very much appreciated.
Thanks Michael! I've printed the Case out but was thinking of adding the display and TMC 2130s. Looking forward to more videos on unlocking the potential of the maker base board.
I get my Ender 3 pro in 3 weeks but because of you I ordered this LCD and MKS board.You do the most sophisticated Ptojrcts for 3D printers Thank you from Germany Frankfurt/Main Main that is a river what goes into the Rhein River. I knoe I'm nerdy but I like it this way.
Awesome video, thank you for sharing.
Im jumping in this with your videos as a guide. :)
excited to see the 2130's as well. Awesome that you went with a touch screen too.
Things I have learnt since doing this... The TFT screen shares the serial port with the USB port on the MKS GEN L. Originally, I thought this was creating the Checksum errors I was getting but narrowed it down to the fact I had the WiFi module installed. Removing the wifi module has cured these errors. You still need to disconnect the screen to do Marlin Firmware updates though
I am using Repetier Server... I can use the display for some things while printing through Repetier... some commands get the CRC error but I have not had a print stop. Might be a difference between Repetier Server and Octoprint.
@@jfkerekes Narrowed it down to the WiFi module causing errors. Using the screen at the same time as printing from Octoprint/Repetier will cause checksum errors as 2 devices are trying to use the same serial bus..
Suggestion- plz consider making an updated ender 3 video to include references to all the different mods/changes. Some people have different problems and experiences and I believe that would be helpful. As in if you encounter this problem take a look at this video. Thanks for putting these videos together.
Can't wait until the TMC2130 video comes out. Keep on the good work!!
Great instructions as always Michael. Always good to learn more stuff. Looking forward to your TMC 2130 video. it will help me decide which board to upgrade my CR-10s4 to. I am leaning towards the Duet Maestro, but I would like to have TMC 2130 drivers and get the sensorless homing, but it's not set in stone.
Looking forward to seeing your new studio.
For anybody who can not get this to work (like me). Once you have modified the custom button Icons and the Config file. You must copy the mks_pic directory with your modified bmp-custom(1-7).bmp files in it out of the Images/Win8Style/English directory, directly onto the SD card. In my case all files were stored under Images and it could not find the Icon .bin file(s). So in your root directory there actually needs to be a directory on your SD card called mks_pic. After 4.5 hours, I finally figured it out by searching other tutorials and reading the manufacturers documentation. After all that, I am just not sure it was worth implementing the Custom buttons. Functionality, seems very limited (and there is no direct feedback as to if anything happens...that I can see; Other built-in button "presses" actually accomplish something visible). A lot of things get missed, when the "narrator" speaks at 300 words per minute (or speeds up the video so you have to watch it 6000 times to follow). And of course if the "narrator" slows it down, there will be 1 out of 1,000,000 people who will complain about that. :-)
Once again, you teach me a lot and bring me to an upper level !
Awesome tutorial! Great details on customizings that have always baffled me.
You got to have the best 3d printing channel on the tube, thanks fr what you do.
This looks like an amazing upgrade. Thanks for video.
Great video. You may want to redo this one though to slow down just a bit and explain more of what your doing. Got a feeling your gonna get hit with a shit ton of questions on this one. I followed along fine but a noob may have a bit of trouble. But as always great video. Very informative.
Would actually like to see the 2208's so the enders could utilize the layer shift detection.
Agreed. 9 minutes for all this.
If you completely don't know what you're doing with this it's probably better you just don't do it
Yeah but, how do you think a noob learns how to do this stuff. Not all but most of the 3d printer owners are tinkerers and alot cant afford to take it to a pro. So yeah your only gonna learn by doing it. So videos like this maybe a bit slower and more detailed for the noobs is all of what the 3d community is about. This channel is typically extremely well and detailed about fixing, modding and pushing a printer to the limits. This channel is an invaluable resource to the 3d printing community and for the noob who just wants better from their printer but cant afford an arm and a leg to make it happen. Not saying your wrong. Just saying most makers are exactly that "makers". We tinker tweek mod and push the limits till we reach that point were we are happy. Even when we have no clue what we are doing and then we you tube it for answers cause somebody out there does know. So i never discourage a noob from taking that next step. Otherwise a noob will always be a noob and never learn and grow as a maker. Yeah they are gonna screw up along the way but most important is to learn grow and become better at what you do. Videos like this simply push in a positive direction to help others avoid common mistakes. So in that aspect i disagree with the whole dont touch if you dont know mentality.
@@davidtingle6 I could not agree more. People like Got memes want to keep 3d printing for an elite forgetting, of course, they too were once noobs.
Nice condensed tutorial mate! Keep up the great work!!
I just finished the whole MKS gen l with tft32 and tmc2208 stepper divers, thank you for your videos , everything went great but my temp bounce even at idle, you had the same problem I thought I seen in one of you videos but I can seem to find it and thanks again
Great upgrade! Thank you for this!
Thanks for the great content, always good to see another video come out from you :)
Thanks Michael, really well explained as usual. I might look into this for myself. Cheers, JAYTEE
It’s not washing the speaker that that sticker refers to - it’s washing the whole board, to get rid of flux residue after manufacturing.
mks_config_EN.txt needs to be renamed to mks_config.txt without doing this causes no communication to the board. Hope this helps someone else as this caused me a grief for a while.
No joke man I love you I searched the web for 3 days and nothing helped and then I read your tip and bam it works. Thx bro
As always there is always something missing in the description and also I found that to hook it up to the Melzi stock board. you have to change from 5V to 12V and supply an external power supply. if it weren't for your recommendation on the config file I'd still be pulling my hair out.
I did this with success and was able to see changes to the firmware, but the issue I'm having is the board is no longer communicating with the screen :( like when I home the axes, it doesnt do it :(
Nice, love your small changes 👍😀
THAT is fricken cool!! Nice video!
An important thing to note in this setup is that the MKS TFT connects to the same serial port as the USB adapter and can cause communication problems if you print with another host such as your pc or Octoprint. This problem gets much worse if you add the MKS wifi module. If you want to use this screen and a USB host, Be sure to power cycle the screen and DO NOT touch the the screen AT ALL before or during a print from the external host. I personally see these as more of a downgrade than an upgrade, but they can be an easy way to add a filament runout sensor and power loss recovery for people who only print from an SD card. If MKS would release the source code, the community could make this into a nice addition to any printer, with proper integration into marlin and other firmwares, and utilizing one of the other available serial ports on the controller, similar to the work done on the ADVi3++ project for the Wanhao printers. For right now I'd stick with the smart controller.
As always, I enjoy your videos and thank you for the hard work that you put into making them.
I don't want to come off as being negative, I just want to highlight some of the drawbacks that I had found with this unit. I recently bought a Bibo2 touch that came with the MKS TFT2.8 and replacing it with a reprapdiscount full graphic smart controller was one of the first things I did to it. It also came with the MKS Gen L board, and I will be using those for other projects in the future. It is a very capable board for a very low price.
Yeah...as much as I like this channel a lot of his "upgrades" are not actually going to make better prints and will cause more problems.
Also you just need to check the MKS github page i have had a few MKS displays and the firmware is terrible on them, the MKS response on github is even worse. Also by the time you buy MKS Gen L + TMC + MKS TFT etc you could just buy an Einsy Rambo + Standard 12864 LCD alot better board and works well in the Ender 3.
I agree. Marlin only allows one client at a time so it's a no go with Octoprint.
Great vids if there wasnt you doing this amazing stuff i wpould be in the day one thank you.
Wonder why it isn't more popular just to use a touchscreen with either Octoprint or Astroprint as the controller for both remote and local control?
I bought the MKS+Driver+Touchscreen that you have linked in your MKS upgrade video. The description was wrong and it does NOT include the TFT32 that it pictured. It has been fixed on Amazon, but your link still says "touch LCD". You should fix that. That disappointment aside, your instructions were extremely helpful.
I was confused by that too. The link just takes you to a standard non-touch LCD.
Amazing video buddy :) keep up the amazing work :)
Hey Michael, that is some cool upgrade! Hope you washed the speaker thoroughly.^^The WiFi functionality, full size SD-Card slot and the touch screen are pretty tempting. And overall this upgrade is a lot cheaper than buying a Raspberry Pi with the original touch display. If I remember right, such a setup is also used in the JG Aurora A5's. Can you use this display also with the standard Creality boards? They also run on 5V and should have the same display connector. Thank you for that video. So much info in such a short clip and still well explainded. Awesome!
I installed this screen and an MKS Gen L following your guide and using your Ender 5 firmware. The homing and move axis features are not working on the screen. If I try to move the axis there is no response. If I try to home, it brings the extruder all the way to the front center and starts ramming into the bed (the BL Touch is off the edge). Any ideas?
Same issue. Did you ever resolve it? :(
Hello, first congratulations on your channel, although my English is very bad I usually watch your videos, would you be so kind to share the TFT settings with the icons that you used in the video?
I do not want to sound ungrateful because your videos have helped me several times, but I see a problem that is repeated in several of your videos is you go very fast and you skip many steps and it is not a problem of just pausing the video. This is very evident when you are following along making the changes you are doing, and not when you are just watching the video. If the objective of your channel is Teaching Tech to people who does not know about this or is learning, this is something you should improve. I hope you do not take it the wrong way and only as a constructive criticism. Thanks.
@@@restopesto9448 You didn't get it. Isn't about pause or rewind as I stated before, it's about skipping steps or information and you only notice when you're following along. The first time I only watched the video and I think it was great, then when I was upgrading my ender 3 following the instructions I realized the skipping steps, and it's not only on this video, in several of his videos is the same thing... at the very end I have to watch other videos on youtube and forums to complete the upgrade.
Great video, soooooo tempted!
So I've got the MKS GEN L and TFT28 installed along with the BLTouch. It runs through all of the startup and bed leveling but now how do adjust the Z offset. The nozzle is too high off the print bed.
Í have an update coming on that but you can setup custom buttons to move the offset up and down: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html
See their example at the bottom of the page. I had five buttons: 0.05 & 0.1 movements up and down, plus an M500 button to save the new offset.
Perfect. Thanks so much. Looking forward to that video and the stepper driver video. @@TeachingTech
I got the Flsun QQ , I did the auto bad calibration. When the printing process starts I do not have the live Z control buttons on the TFT screen. The firmware type: MKS tft ver. 3.0.1
The manufacturer instruction of how to flush the firmware are in Chinese, from what I understood I have to copy the updated files on the SD card & the process will be done automatically when inserting I will appreciate any guidance were to find the correct files. Thanks.
I'm planning an update video on how to add baby stepping/z offset buttons. It should teach you what you need.
Michael, Since upgrading to the new MKS Gen L board as well as the TFT32 I really miss ability to fine adjust the Z offset that is native to the Ender 3 controller board. Is there any way to incorporate this command to allow me to fine adjust the Z offset + or - using the TFT32? Thanks for all your help. I've followed most of your upgrades to my Ender 3 since I started in the 3D printing world last October. Your channel has been the most help of any other channel.
I'll be covering this in future but it involves custom buttons like in this video with m290 as the command: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html
Thanks Michael!
Thank you for this video and touching on custom buttons. It gave me an idea. Currently, I don't have any buttons for babystepping on the Ender-3 I upgraded to use MKS GEN V1.4 and TFT32, even though I set Marlin up to allow babystepping. So, I'm going to make custom buttons. M290 Z0.1; to move z up. M290 Z-0.1; to move z down. And then M500 to hopefully save the setting for the next time I print. I have been using M92 Zx.x in my G-Code, but it's not consistent for some reason. And, I like to share G-Code between different printers (Ender-3 and Ender-5) and the G92 command messes up the level between them. If you know of a fix or how you work around it, I'd be interested to hear it.
I just got my ender 3 pro a few weeks ago and I watched a lot of your upgrade videos. I bought mks gen L 1.4 and stepper drivers, tft28 screen, bltouch, and raspberry pi octoprint and was wandering if you will have a video that shows how to install everything together along with firmware instructions. I would like to find a 3d printed case for the mks gen l 1.4 that works for ender 3 pro.
Great video! I'm probably going to do this upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro. Question, and apologies if you've already answered... Is there a custom back cover for this display, with slots for the SD-card, etc?
Did you find a solution for your Pro?
Hi, thanks for these videos, they are invaluable. I would like to change my main board to the skr 1.3 which looks a lot simpler to mess about with the stepper drivers than the mks gen l. Is it possible to use the tft28 or tft32 with the skr 1.3 board? I’m assuming it is as I’m sure I saw it in one of your videos when you were talking about the drivers? Thank you in advance.
I'm thingking on buying the ender 3 pro only for your videos ^_^U
Here I have a local offer so the pro only costs me 40€ more than the non pro and I think the extra wide on the base rail is a good think to have. And the idea of having TMC stepper drivers is very interesting.
I was hesitating between this one and the Geetech A10m, only for the dual extruder, but with the mks board and having the posibility on having a dual extruder on the ender 3 pro in a future I think it's a better option (better bearings, power supply and community, I think it's a must have)
T français
Excellent video, i have a couple of these displays, very cool :) Thanks again for another awesome video. :)
You're the best Professor!
Hi, thanks for the cool tutorial! what are your thoughts on the mks tft2.4 and ramps1.4? I had trouble getting it to turn on and I was wondering if there was a 5v/12v jumper I missed
Hello, I like your work. I want to ask you a few questions. Does this device have Turkish language support?
Would this upgrade work with the stock Ender 3 board? I’ve upgraded my Ender 3 with a TH3D EZABL, would the upgrade be compatible with it? How will I baby step? Thanks!
I've bought an Ender 3 Pro and SKR E3 Mini board and their touch display. I did the main board swap and installed the display with no problem, but I have *not* been able to find how to add the extra cables/connections (which ones and where do they go) to enable the touch screen and USB and SD cards on the display board. Do you have a video on that, or can you point me to a document that shows it? Thank you for your great series of videos!
Great video again have u managed to get babystepping there yet also are u going to fit the wifi module
The "Remove seal after washing" is for the factory. The entire circuit board needs to be washed to remove residue so you can assume the board is washed and all that needs to be done is remove the seal. The seal isn't removed at the factory because its a waste of time/ unnecessary or they don't care. Advising people to wash the speaker is not a good idea.
Hello,
Very interesting.
Would it be possible to hook-Up a MKS TFT32 to a Ramps 1.4 ?
I see conflicting Info on the Web.
But the Software is the same, it seems only to be a difference in Screen Size ?
Thanks and keep up the good work.
efbe
Thank you for the video. Is it possible to do this upgrade on ender 5?
Hi Michael, great video. I’ve got to ask though, have you had trouble running Octoprint with this as there seems to be conflict on the usb?
This is really cool! So was the main board upgrade. There are so many cool upgrades for the Ender 3 - BUT I can’t help but wonder, if you took the initial purchase price and add on the total cost of all these upgrades, is there a better printer that you could buy for the same amount?
was thinking the same, with the new mainboard, screen and soon new motors, there isn't much left from a ender 3 besides the frame and screws. Even if a comparable printer would be a little bit more expensive, you habe it all in one package guranteed to work and don't have to tinker around. Which some might like, but if you really like that might aswell build your own custom printer.
If you want to add babystepping check out the jgaurora a5 wiki. I did the customizing on it to allow babystepping and some other custom buttons.
Hi Michael,
I'm following your videos quite a time now, and did follow some of your turorials.
Therefore I have bought once the MSK TFT28 and now I upgraded my Ender 3 with an SKR Mini E3 V1.2.
Is it possible to use the MSK TFT28 with the SKR Mini E3 and if it works how does it work :)
Thanks in advance for your advice.
BR
Michael as well ;)
looks nice very tempted........
You know you might be one ☝️ of best and smarties man on the 3D Ender. But you might want slow it down just a little for newbies like me and others. Love your videos keep up the great work that you are doing my friend
I am using the MKS TFT35 version atm. But how do i Babystep for my BLTouch and how do i save it in the firmware using that TFT35 Screen. The firmware for the TFT35 differs from the TFT28 i think since i cant use the retro version. I havent tried but i guess it cant be done since there are not any such examples.
Any plans to convert the Ender 5 to MKS Gen L including your great custom PCB holder and TMC 2130?
I‘d love to see it!
Love this guy
Michael, I have been watching your videos for quite some time. They have helped me tremendously and building my current machine which is a modded Ender 5. I would like to use the MKS TFT 28 as my main display. I found that it lacks many functions that the stock display has. I'm trying to figure out how to do more with this display, ie adding bltouch, Z probe offset eeprom settings and a few other options. It would be nice if the display would just read everything from the printer but I know it acts as its own separate entity. But is it possible to add the settings as part of the actions that can be used from the display?
when is a new video about ender 5 coming out? Maybe a 7 must have upgrades?
Thank for a great video, I have have done this modification. Is there a way I can adjust the z offset live?
Doesn't look like Amazon or Banggood are carrying this anymore. Anyone know the reason (updated, product issues, etc.)?
Thanks for all the awesome info. You put a lot of effort into your videos, really appreciate it. Would you be able to share the custom images you created? I don't have photoshop so can't edit
Hi,
Thanks for the videos on upgrading to a MKS GEN L and the TFT screen. You showed you have also a bl touch in your setup.
I have already upgraded my CR10 using TMC2130 in SPI mode. Nice and silent, with sensorless homing on the X and Y. I also configured a bl touch .
I could not find the option "babysteps" on the new TFT display. With this useful option you can make small adjustments in z-heigth while starting a print.
For now it only accesable by double clicking the button on the original CR10 display.
Does anybody know how to get to the babystep-option on the MKS boards?
Best regards
Rob
Rob Huurman I’m having this same issue on my ender did you ever figure this out? My nozzle is just a bit too close to my bed and would like to babystep it up but I see no option to use this feature on my first layer while printing. I am running a gen l bltouch and tft3.2 like you
Audio Philes .
Hi, I've hooked up both the TFT and the original display to the MKS Gen L. Most of the time the TFT-display is used. Babysteps for finetuning a print that's just starting are adjusted on the original display.
Make sure to enable "CR10 display" in Marlin, otherwise only the TFT is functional.
If someone knows how to get to "babysteps" on the MKS Gen L, please inform us.
Rob
Would you prefer this set-up you have been detailing over say a smoothie board? I'm new to 3d printing. I have yet to Purchase a 3-D printer my plan is to by the ender3, do some upgrades and use that to print the pieces necessary to make something like a tronxy 500mm core xy machine. Being a machinist i can make most of the parts with the exception of complex fan ducts ect. I would like to use nice linear rails, ball screws and smoothie board for a hopefully more ridgid, accurate machine.
Really kool, so much to do😎
Thank you for making these videos, I Really appreciate them. I have a Enders 3 Pro and upgraded the mother board to Version 4.2.7 and have added BLtouch which I have yet to get working.( two Magnetic bases holed ).Can you fit a touch screen to this motherboard and is there a lot software configuration to do.
Cheers.
Stay Safe.
Warning for Octoprint/Octopi users contemplating this upgrade: I discovered after buying the MKS TFT35 that the TFT modules monopolize serial communications, preventing USB communication with Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi, or control via USB from a PC - see github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-TFT/issues/138 and samuelpinches.com.au/blab/makerbase-mks-tft-lcd-tft28-problems/ for details. in the Github issue, MKS tech support declared "USB and TFT serial ports are shared and cannot be controlled at the same time.", so unless there's a workaround (Michael?), you'll have to choose between TFT + SD card or LCD screen + Octoprint. This also means the MKS power-off and auto-shutoff modules that I bought are also unusable, because they are controlled by the TFT module... sad day. I will stick with Octoprint for now.
I don't have that problem. One of my patrons did and concluded that adding a MKS wifi module caused this problem as they were also able to run Octoprint and the MKS TFT at the same time.
@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael I may give it a try to confirm
Wait... You don't have to wash the speaker!
What does it mean to wash the speaker ?
Moti Landes When you solder components to a circuit board, it gets pretty dirty. For that reason it is cleaned in a bath of water and soap. Ultrasonic sound waves are used to "scrub" the circuit board. Most components like resistors, capacitors, microchips etc. can be washed this way without a problem, but some others, like the speaker, are not "waterproof". So they are sealed to prevent the water from getting inside and this seal needs to be removed. Some manufacturers don't do this (probably because it's cheaper) so you have to remove it yourself.
Hi tnx for good Description...
a question...
I have Rumba+ board and 3 extruder & 1 nozzle and TFT 28 LCD.
How add extruder num 3 on my TFT configuration...!?
(plz help me I Really needed).
Hi, I was very interested in the touchscreen and ordered one to work with a ramps 1.4 board, but...
Updating and connecting no problem, but the TFT28 won't connect to the printer, a humble (modified) Tronxy X1.
Nothing reacts.
(Yes, I connected the TFT28 with a separate 12V supply after changing the Jumper.)
The strange thing is that there must be a sort of connection, because it reads the current Temp, an if I preheat via Octoprint the go-to temperature is also displayed.
I tried to fing some info on the internet, it seems that there are a lot of people have the same problem, but I didn't find a solution.
Can You shed maybe some lite in the darkness ?
Thanks anyway, always looking forward to Your next Video
efbe..
I dont think they are compatible.
I have the same problem. Did you find a solution? (they are compatibles, for sure)
I switch to the Ender 3. Never solved the problem.
Hello!
First of all that a lot for your videos, very helpfull tutorials!
I have made this setup: MKS Gen L and this same TFT.
The problem I'm having is when I set my slicer (Cura 4.4) to stop at a certain height the printer stops, but I cant re-start the print again.
I have tried different things and nothing works.
Can you please help or make a quick video about it?
Regards
Great video! Went off to find a Canadian supplier for the TFT28 then came across ads for the MKS TFT35, any thoughts on that display vs the TFT28? A bundle available on AliExpress with a filament runout detector is about CDN $64. The TFT35 features WiFi, power cut detection, and auto power off - very compelling features! But is it compatible with the Ender 3 + MKS Gen L board? I'm about to pull the trigger on ordering it...
That is the TFT I have on my Ender. Set-up is just like the TFT28. I made a custom holder for the screen: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3221777
Trigger pulled, awaiting (and awaiting...) delivery from AliExpress. @Andre Guerrieri thanks for the case!
Can we add babystep z as a custom button? I don't want to keep the stock screen AND this one, what would the command be to do z down .250 and separately up .250? I assume that's really all I'd need as two custom buttons right?
Hi Machael, I love these videos, you make my life so easy, just a heads up on printing from sd card using the touch screen. I have found that if i have ether my PC or Pi connected to the mks board the touch will not proceed to print from the sd card. I have set the baud rate on the touch and mks board both to 115200 and still no joys. I did not know this was the case until today when i was installing another of my ender 3s with this upgrade today. I wonder if you have found this to be a bug and or know of a work around. 'My TMC2130 1.1 Drivers are sitting on my desk waiting for your install video' Thanks in advance! Craig
Hi Craig, I tested for this and didn't have the problem. Only annoyance is the heater time out plugin keeps giving an error every few minutes.
@@TeachingTech Hi Michael, It appears to be working as it starts heating the bed and then the hot end but doesn't actually starts printing. I have this on both the 24" display with front sd card slot and the 32 inch with side sd card slot. So it appears to work but does not follow through with the task.
Would the TFT32 also fit on the Ender 3's console panel? Also, I'm very excited to see the TMC2130 video. I hear you can enable it to have sensorless endstops? That's quite cool :P
All of the TFT models up through the TFT35 have the same board size (110x65mm as I recall) so should fit the stock enclosure. The stock screen opening is 3.5" diagonal so the TFT35 should fit (that's why Michael needed a spacer for a good fit with the smaller 2.8" screen). The TMC2130's have sensorless endstops, but if you step up to the 2208's they do not.
@@dwmorris thank you! 😁
I have MKS SGEN L and MKS TFT35 V1.0... I've done the firmware, but the "machine settings" menus don't show any text after updating firmware. Any Ideas? thanks
I have an Creality CR-3040S with a MSK TFT 32_L 4.0 display, but when I upgraded the Marlin firmware of the printer the display stopped interacting with the printer. The only clues I have been able to observe are in the Pronterface console:
echo:Unknown command: "SáM105"
echo:Unknown command: "C{%¡¥)M105"
echo:Unknown command: "sáM105"
It seems that the Display is trying to send M105 to the printer, but ends up appending strange characters so they become non-understandable. Could this relate to some language issues with English and Chinese character sets conflicting and how would that come about ?
Possibly baud rate incorrect as I've seen the Arduino ide produce junk like that before if the baud was wrong.
@@TeachingTech The baudrate is set to 115200 in Marlin and in the MKS TFT32 display firmware, also that setting works fine to connect using Pronterface - unlikely the issue here.
Solved the issue by flashing the display using the original firmware supplied by Creality. It turns out that uploading a new Marlin firmware to the printer, also does something (brakes it) to the MKS display firmware even though it is a totally separate unit. I did not know one upload could affect the other.
That's awesome. That was one disappointing thing with the Ender 3s. Would this work with the stock board? Also did you see that Creality has an official BL Touch solution now with some sort of ISP to burn fw to it. However, from my research they are using Merlin 1.16 so I wanted to know how would I go about updating that to 1.19 since the bootloader will be available.
These Makerbase TFT screens will not work with the stock Melzi board in the Ender-3.
If you're considering Bltouch, check out his video on upgrading to the MKS Gen L board. It will give you much more flexibility for future upgrades
i have done the motherboard upgrade, tft28 display upgrade, and the raspberry pi upgrade... everything works but heating the bed.... it reads the temp of the bed and hot end and it can work the hot end perfectly fine but the bed will not work.... neither the display nor octoprint can communicate to the bed and for that reason i can't print because it gives an error for i guess timing out on heating up.... please help
Just upgraded my Ender 3 with the Bigtree SKR Mini E3. works fine with original display. I bought the Makerbase MKS TFT28 V9 but the ribben cables are different. 10 pin on main bd and 8 pin on the display. How do I get them hooked up??? Or did I buy the wrong display????
Awesome!
hi, will it work with a stock ender3? i mean i have no octoprint/rasberry pi mods
I am also very interested in connecting a tft28 to a stock ender 3. Has anyone been able to do this?
Amazing videos. Find them extremely helpful. Does the TFT28/32 touchscreens work with the SKR 1.3 board? Thankyou
David are they works with SKR?
So I have a question I bought this and an MKS GEN L board for my Ender 3. I was told that all I would have to do to load the firmware for the Ender would be to load its Firmware.bin file from the SD slot. But when I load up the screen comes on but I don't see anything happen is there anyway I know that the firmware has loaded the SD card acts as though there are no files and nothing is read. When I put another SD card in with an STL it doesn't see the STL this leads me to believe the SD Card reader might be bad unless I am missing something. Thanks for any help you can provide.
So I have the mks gen l, Tft 3.2 and bltouch. I’m having an issue with setting the bltouch everything is dialed in and working as it should however, setting the z offset either up or down during the first layer like on the factory main board is not accessible with this screen is there anyway to enable this functionality?
Youcan make custom buttons with M290 commands. See the example at the bottom here: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M290.html
How are you handling M600 filament runout and color changes without the encoder that you removed? I just had to make substantial firmware modifications to pull it off!
I currently have a MKS TFT24 on a makertech proforge 2s dual. It hasn’t been working well for me.(lots of glitches) Will this conversion video work on that? Or do you have other suggestions?
Any way to connect the TFT28 directly to the stock board? i don't mind recrimping connectors or soldering but it would be nice to have a tutorial on how to use the tft28 with the stock board
this one is good
Michael, I';ve watched all your videos on upgrading the Ender 3, my first 3D printer. I have applied most of the upgrades you have shown including the new touch display and a MKS GEN L board although I installed the TFT32 display.
I've noticed that when the print finishes the Z axis raises out of the way and the print bed goes to the rear of the printer. The bed location with the new upgrade is reversed from the stock Ender 3 where the bed moved to the front of the printer after the completion of a print. Is the any way to get the bed to move forward again after the print has finished?
I know this may not seem like an important item but I kind of got use to the bed moving forward. At 70 years old I am kind of set in my ways and I like things the way they were.
Addition: OK, What the heck just happened. The very next print I did on the Ender 3 had the bed go forward once it finished printing. Is it magic?
It looks like the bed moves forward or back after finish print depending on the position of the print. I don't know for sure. Pretty crazy or should it do that?