The best cheap or free Ender 3 upgrades - re-modding my newest version
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- Опубліковано 30 лип 2024
- The Ender 3 is a fantastic first 3D printer, but it can be made better with these cheap/free upgrades. Most of these are 3D printed and freely available on Thingiverse, and the others are very affordable. In this guide, I revisit the mods I completed on my original Ender 3 and redo the ones that I have been missing on my new Ender 3 Pro.
Purchase the Ender 3 from these links:
Ender 3 Pro Banggood ($30 off with coupon 1d1c08): bit.ly/2OUcEyS
Ender 3 Banggood (US warehouse, Coupon: f2bf59): bit.ly/2Efoi6B
Ender 3 Pro Amazon: amzn.to/2DpkbEs
Ender 3 Amazon: amzn.to/2xyJ23s
Ender 3X (glass bed version): amzn.to/2I7dG85
Assorted M3/M4/M5 nuts and bolts:
Amazon ($16) - amzn.to/2pF4wHx
Bangood ($20) - bit.ly/2zWO3o4
Stepper motor dampers:
Please note that viewers are reporting fixed belt pulleys on the steppers in newer models. Don't order these if you have this.
Amazon 5 stepper dampers for $13:amzn.to/2v5ng63
Banggood $2 each: bit.ly/2NtB010
Capricorn Tubing (plenty of spares of each of these after fitting to the printer):
1m XS PTFE tube on Amazon ($14.50): amzn.to/2wsV2lR
PC4-M6 and PC4-M10 connectors (10 of each for $14): amzn.to/2ykFykM
Micro SD to SD card extender (if you regularly use th SD card): amzn.to/2OP5NHp
Printed parts I would still recommend:
Ender 3 fan guard (not needed for Pro): www.thingiverse.com/thing:293...
LCD PCB cover (a version exists that uses the standard screws): www.thingiverse.com/thing:285...
SD card extended holder (if you regularly use the SD card): www.thingiverse.com/thing:291...
Ender 3 tool tray (if not using a Raspberry pi): www.thingiverse.com/thing:295...
Extruder wheel: www.thingiverse.com/thing:277...
Simple filament guide (lower): www.thingiverse.com/thing:289...
Cable clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:294...
CR10 extruder knob: www.thingiverse.com/thing:310...
Raspberry Pi case: www.thingiverse.com/thing:301...
Printed parts I don’t think are needed anymore or have better versions:
Z stepper spacer: www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
Filament guide snap in (up high): www.thingiverse.com/thing:291...
Filament guide (low next to extruder): www.thingiverse.com/thing:289...
Display ribbon cable clip: www.thingiverse.com/thing:288...
Petsfang duct: www.thingiverse.com/thing:275...
Tool tray: www.thingiverse.com/thing:292...
Damping feet: www.thingiverse.com/thing:291...
Anti snag end cap: www.thingiverse.com/thing:294...
End rail cover: www.thingiverse.com/thing:299...
Pi case: www.thingiverse.com/thing:272...
Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au
Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): www.gearbest.com/?lkid=13807527
Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe.
Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech
#3dprinting #ender3 #upgrades
Since I just assembled a new Ender 3 today, this video came at the perfect time supplying 6 small projects to test and eventually enhance the printer.
Looking forward to more of your content!
Michael, my ender 3 is on the way! I plan to use some of the upgrades shown in this video. Great video, keep the content coming!
I bought an ended 3 just after you started your videos on the model. Thanks for your excellent advice! I look forward to seeing more of what you’ve done to improve the Ender 3.
I JUST GOT MY ENDER 3!!!! And your videos are a fantastic guide line for me! Thanks for the videos.
Great video. Definitely looking forward to the next one! Some of your tips and tricks have helped me eliminate most issues I’ve had with the Ender 3. Thank you and keep up the great videos!
Thanks for putting the parts in your description. My pro should be arriving withing the next 12 hours and I'll definitely print these things off once I'm setup
When my PLA filament guides started humming - like materials don't like rubbing - I came to the same solution of moving the filament reel right to the end as well.
I think they fixed the bowden tube by the time I got mine 2 months ago, because I haven't had any problems with the std one.
Many thanks for your info on the Ender 3 , have been looking at 3D printers for ages anf thanks to your great coverage of the Ender series I now have one and am printing, keep up giving advice.
I love all of your videos. Please keep up the great content!
Lol just did the capricorn tube Friday! Should have waited for the new tutorial, but working now! Keep up the great work and in depth and honest videos!
Oh! Definitely need the next video, glad you mentioned firmware changes, need to order the pi zero and cables in preparation!
@@KnowBuddiesLP get the full pi the zero is under powered and gave me loads of hassle.
@@ThELyNXfragm sorry, I meant the ardiono (sp?) I have the pi 3 with OctoPrint setup already, meant for the bootloader setup, thanks for the call out, and couldn't agree more on the 3 vs zero :)
For the LCD Cover there is a version to fit with factory screws on thingiverse ;)
Ohhhhhh! Do you have the number for that part? Links maybe blocked but can look it up by the # :)
@@KnowBuddiesLP actually just realized its the one linked in the description :D
Just pick the stl with factory in the name ;)
just in case that wasn't bs... it's thing:2987100 - but you still lazy :P I searched for Ender 3 cover (looked through list for one for stock screws)
Awesome thanks, by the way the original one added that also in a new update:
"16.08.2018
added two new closed Versions for factory srews, one with buzzerhole, one without hole."
www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858209/
Great tutorial. Thanks - Keep up the good work. Your videos have helped me about a lot.
Thank you for video, waiting for cooling mod test.
Check out the double high Pi case, you can put in a buck converter, split the printer power feed and your set, nice and clean.
Do you have the link for this?
I printed on of the filament guides that clip onto the upright part of the extruder plate that holds the roller wheels. It fits kinda loose and I was worried about it falling off, so I glued it in place with a small amount of 5 minute epoxy. If I ever need to remove it I can probably do so destructively, and then peel off whatever remains without damaging the printer. Moving the filament spool holder over to the far left wasn't easy, getting the T nuts into the slot between the screws holding the uprights is a RPITA. I installed a different kind of spool holder. I found a model on thinigiverse for a spool holder insert with stepped sides that will work with various different spool inner diameters. These have two 608zz bearing in them (you need to print two of these, one for each side of the spool). I then printed an adapter to put an 8mm (5/16") carriage bolt in the big hole in the bracket which the spool holders slide onto. A wing nut holds it together. It does take longer to mount the spool on this, but it holds it MUCH better and turns more easily. You can adjust the friction by tightening or loosening the wing nut as required.
A faster easier almost instant way to get a lower filament guard and not use any filament is to cut about an inch of the protective cover that came on the Z lead screw and slip it over the screw to stop any grease swapping. Like Teaching Tech said the simplest solution is often the best.
Awesome video! My Ender 3 pro just arrived in the mail so this video came just in time. Looking forward to the next one! Thanks for all your help and keep up the great work!
Fayiz Mahgoub damn how big is your mailbox
Thanks for sharing 👍😀
Nice projekt 👍
Very good, can't wait to see the bullseye vid
I've been running the bullseye for about 3 weeks now and really like it. Interested to see what he has to say about it though.
Good to hear, do you have better bridges with the bullseye? I tried the vent ring: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912394 but this didn't work too well.
I put a cable holder for the x motor cable, just a bit of baling wire holds out rubber bands that hold a loose cable tie for it.
Great video. Thanks for putting the time and effort into helping us all out. I thought you said in a previous Ender 3 video that you had successfully tested it with different filament materials including PC. If this is true would it be possible to get your machine profile you use to print with PC? Thanks mate.
One more small mod i can recommend is a printed knob for the top of the Z axis lead screw. But be wary, some types may collide with a too wide extruder gear knob if printing higher than about 230mm, making rattling and grinding noises and possibly leading to both extruder problems and damaging the lead screw.
And one more essential upgrade would be a better spool holder, as the stock one is just pretty bad overall.
Interestingly a lot of people assemble the holder backwards so some rolls of filament don't fit.
for the screw guard i just use a unused shrink wrap that will fit loosely and use that.
The beeper cover is good, if you don't want to remove it completely.
This is great i just got 2 ender 3's and having access to this Info is so handy m8......now ive got to source a 422 or 427 board, i think...one of the printers has a green board, which is not plug and play as ive found out. Im 50yr ol with disabilitys and these newer models are more user friendly.😀
I got my ender3 2 weeks ago and aside from some bird nests and prints that randomly stopped in the middle (both problems fixed by reformatting the sd card). I am astonished at the high quality of the prints (after I found some good default settings and levelled the bed). I am also astonished at how slow 3d printing is. I have a laser cutter and I can make a large very elaborate cut and it rarely takes 30min. That being said I'm loving this machine and the happy song it makes when it's printing. Hopefully this will be the inspiration to finally get over the fusion3d hump and leave TinkerCad behind/
I guess the difference is laser cutting is 2d. You have to extrude the outside perimeter and then the infill, repeating for each layer. Try turning up your base print speed until quality suffers.
Just want to say thanks for your videos especially those of the Ender 3. I use a Bltouch for bed leveling. Also, Buildtak has a flexplate the size of the bed 235mm² with pei sheets if you want.
Sure if you want to buy build plate that is half the cost of the printer. I can't believe it is worth it.
Alec Ward You can just buy a spring steel sheet and pei and just use clips. That would still be worth it in the long run for large prints. Besides, people are already swapping out the control boards and using tmc drivers with noctua fans, capricorn ptfe tubes, linear rail mods, bltouch, and swapping out the hotend for a microswiss. Whats one little magnetic bed that lets you swap out your surface from buildtak to pei. Not to mention you can use all the build space without your nozzle hitting any clips.
Its useful but not entirely necessary.
There is no sarcasm in this post. Just pointing out how useful it can be in the long run.
@@marcosramirez385 right I just think buildtak is a rip-off due to "name brand" over charging. I just bought a $15 magnet build surface and called it good. Binder clips drive me crazy!
Alec Ward I did buy the flexplate. It might not be worth it to others but I like it. It gives me the option to print with different materials and up to 120 degrees on the bed. Plus with my fixed heatbed and Bltouch I dont have to worry about leveling.
Like I said, not for everyone.
Which build surface were you talking about by the way? I'm interested in something cheaper for another Ender 3 I plan to buy which will b a pla only machine.
I have a prusa mk3 with the flexplate, a CCT with the buildrak version, and easy peelsy on two others. They are all better than standard. Personally I like the prusa one the best. Just my 2c.
Make video about change filament with coldpull VS hotpull 😁
Thank you for your videos. Ender 3 is printing its first benchy and all is well. Added quite a few upgrades. Here is my question: Have you considered extending the height of the ender 3 with taller rails if that is even possible? Thank you.
Great video, thanks
Vid on 3d printed belt tensioners for the ender 3
There is a new version of the anti-snag attachment that does not require screws. It clips on to the extrusion
got a link?
@@michaelwuchitech7598 thanks!
a spool bearing system is a MUST for that printer, you haven't mention it in any of your videos (at least those I watched)
Looking forward to the bullseye comparison! Maybe you can also do a comparison of the Petsfang vs Circular Cooling duct (theres a lot on thingiverse in case you dont know what that is) vs the Bullseye vs the stock :)
Personally, i am still deciding whether or not the Petsfang is worth it to go through the trouble of buying another fan, or if I should just use the Bullseye
That would be good, I'll see how I go for time.
Same, I'd love to see a comparison since the bullseye v2 looks like a huge pain since it has so many pieces and it's so modular. I'd rather not waste a ton of time and filament if it's just a flashy looking gigantic fan shroud.
@Teaching Tech Thanks for making a video! I'll look forward to it no matter what you end up including :)
@eldeecg My thoughts exactly. I'm rather lazy and my printer currently works fine as it is, but if there's like a huge improvement, I think I'd be willing to go through the trouble of upgrading
Mate, if you have the time compare bullseye with something completely overkill just to see how far we can push this thing.
Also any thoughts about converting this to a three point mount vs the stock 4? Might make it easy to level the bed.
Thanks for all the ender 3 advice!!
Cheers!
My next planned video is a bullseye vs stock vs simple ring fan add on. I've designed a cooling torture test and am currently printing a bunch.
My ender 3 came with a really bad dip in the center of the bed, can't wait for the video to do mesh leveling without a sensor.
Will be the next video out.
Waiting for the videos about bed leveling and other things you said
Bed levelling is the next video. Out in the next 24 hours.
A couple of little adjustments I would consider in 2021.
° Don't grind down the bed adjuster, print a smaller one.
° If you have a Pi 4, don't do a completely or near sealed plastic case. It needs cooling, or at the very least free access to ambient air for convection.
° If you do tall prints, or frankly in general - if you have the space, consider moving your filament holder off the printer. Or at least to a mount on the bottom frame.
Also; as far as i can tell the z axis motor is held in the same way as the updated Ender 3 non-pro.
Agreed.
I shimmed mine with some folded paper strips. Didn't realize that there was some adjustment available within the mounting system. (Ender 3 "Mk 2".)
Could do with a vid on all your latest ender mods
Oh thank God you're gonna do a beginner Ender 3 video. My x axis bar seems to be... off or something. The little fan for the extruder gave out and started buzzing (if you know a solution please let me know) and the bed seems to be unusually difficult to level.
I've finished recording it and just have to edit. It should the issues you describe.
@@TeachingTech oh awesome, I'll keep an eye out! Really want this thing to be printing like I keep seeing others printing with them lol
Interesting you mentioned the part cooling fan failure. Mine has just started groaning intermittently which usually means it is on its way out.
The spacers for the Z axis stepper isn't necessary. The reason for this problem is that the bracket that the extruder is mounted on and the lead screw goes through isn't bent at a 90 degree angle. If you use a machinist square and get that bracket bent to 90 degrees, you'll find that the spacers are no longer needed.
Thanks for sharing.
Do you think it is worth installing the petsfang duct? I got a bl touch to use with it too.
With the standard fan, use the bullseye or hero me. If you are upgrading to a larger 5015 blower, then yes.
The bowden tube set up would be much better if it was a olive fitting instead of a press in thing
Got my Ender 3-Pro a month or so ago as my intro to 3D printing and its not really the same machine anymore.
I'd say the biggest upgrades in order were a BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 mainboard, Hotend/part cooling fan mount (printed the CR-10/Ender 3 Dual 40mm Fan Ducinator remix with BLT mount), BLTouch/ABL probe, Capricorn bowden, bed spring upgrade and an all metal dual gear extruder. I also bought a glass build plate but 3/10 would not recommend. I'll probably get a PEI plate with spring steel. Some other nice things to have include Vslot Covers, Front LCD panel cover, side mounted spool holder, tool holder/s and there's a few really sweet drawer designs.
What do you guys think, direct drive with linear rails next?
If like to know more about the set up of the raspberry PI.
Anyone care to recommend a good place to mount the pi cam for timelapse recording ? I've seen some 3D printed mounts that mount on the printer. Wondering if that is optimal.
A video for ender 3 octalapse settings please 😄
Coming..
I tried printing a fan guard. Didn’t go very well... I’ll have to try again
Az izzószálakat egy horgászpálcával kezelt porcelángyűrűvel helyeztem.
2mm-es belső méretet vásárolhat a horgászboltban. Ragasztam a filemant a bemeneti üreghez egy erős kétrétegű ragasztóval. (Google Fordító)
Its in hungarian.
Re: the filament guide... I just put the long back tube that the Z-screw came in back on and it keeps the filament clean.
Is it possible to use the 32 bit smoothie board on an original ender 3 ?
Do you have a video on the LCD controls axes temperature, extruded etc? I’m confused about all the choices.
Is the y axis a must? I’m just scared as I’ve heard the frying your printer part
Hi, would you have a cheaper option (maybe on BangGood) for the PTFE tube connectors?
As long as they have metal teeth instead of the plastic ones I showed in one of my videos it will be an improvement.
I moved my Pi case, like your first one, under the control screen. That way you have fewer wires facing out and no footprint issues.
That's a nice solution.
Hi, nice video, thanks. But I've a question about connecting the raspberry pi. I dont see the usb cable for the printer in your video. It is not nice to have all your cables in front of your printer, so I have my rasp. behind my printer. I can't see your becaurse of the high camera view
It's highly possible that I simply had it disconnected while filming. The cable management with so many printers in my room is ridiculous.
Newbie here. How do you recommend picking up and moving the unit around? Do you grab it by the top or sides or base or is it not recommended to move it around much?
Worse case is you bump your bed and need to relevel. I don't move it often, but when I do I grab it by the top horizontal frame.
So you you mention some differences between the Pro and not. Do you think the Pro is worth the $50 as a starting point? I feel like if you want to upgrade to linear bearings it's not worth it, but if you don't intend to do that upgrade, it's not. Thoughts?
How can you tell the difference in the different versions? I have an Ender 3 Pro but some newer videos state they may have thermal runaway protection.
What Y adapter did you use, on thingverse, to be able to install the damper?
Hi, I'm interested in buying a 3d printer for my grandson, I'd like to keep the cost down to under £350 or so. Can you recommend a printer that is simple to set up and produces good quality prints. Low powered would be great as well as a large bed, self leveling if possible. Thanks, Graham. By the way, your videos are the best, keep it going please.
I'm probably waaay to late, but with a Ender 3 pro you can't go wrong! It's the best printer under 300$
I have an issue where my raspberry pi send power back to my ender 3 via the USB port. When the Ender 3 is off the Pi will alarm about the power, and the Ender 3 display and fan will still be running powered by the USB of the PI. To me that all sounds like a really bad thing, so I have not been using my Pi with my Ender 3 at all, and that kind of sucks.
How do you think about changing the bed level springs? My Ender 3 pro just arrived and I have troubles with bed leveling since it changes after every print, as the bed level knobs are spinning really easily = /
Easiest solution is to tighten all the knobs (lower the plate) and then re-level with the knobs done up more tightly. It simply sounds like your plate is too high and thus the springs aren't actually pushing against anything and thus the knobs spin freely. When the plate is lowered enough, the springs will be compressed and the knobs will stiffen up.
Hi Michael,
I have a Ender 3 and a friend my too, he told me to turn off the extruder fan to printing using ABS.
So that is realy bether way to printing in ABS?
So my question is, It's safe do that? As i know the extruder is turn on in parallel with the fan board and if i turn that off Can I burn my Ender 3 board?
By the way, It's possible turn on the fan board directly on 24v output from the power suply?
The extruder cooling fan must stay on to prevent damage and clogs. The part cooling fan should be off for ABS, except for bridging and overhangs. Hopefully this is where the confusion is.
I just bult my Ender 3 Pro. The slicer software on the TF card is unable to install. Do you know where I can get the software or how to install this one? It has a .msi extension.
I'm a little late to the game here, Just got an Ender 3 Pro, for Printed Parts you don't think are needed anymore or have better versions. can you list which ones are not needed and which have a better version or link to the better version
thoughts on linear rails or direct drive for this printer?
The simplest solution for the wires is to route them under the unit.
Is there any chance u could do a profile tutorial so we can print supper good because my prints suck like no I’m serious they suck
This is the video you are looking for: ua-cam.com/video/3yIebnVjADM/v-deo.html
why not print the lcd cover that uses the stock screws?
I printed the version I still had downloaded from last time. It might have been updated or maybe I missed it but I'll update the description.
Might be off topic but what is your opinion on adding an external mosfet for heated bed? $10 cad on amazon worth it or is the risk of board damage low on ended 3’s.
Assuming 1 year warranty is it worth waiting out the warranty period?
I've heard of a few busted bed MOSFETS where the heater is permanently on. All of the Ender 3s in the wild and the small number of failures might imply that the current mosfets are up to spec, however.
I can not see the purpose in Raspberry Pie. you still need to clean the bed, insert filament, start the print and do a bed level. That requires you to be in front of the printer. It's very simple to save to an SD card and pop it in. I also like the fact that I can save hundreds of STL files on an SD card as a portable library.
Ray Parker Raspberry pi is one of the best things, most of the things you mentioned you would already have set up for the next print, bed levelling would be taking care of with ABL or mesh, you don’t have to go anywhere near your Printer to start your print, you also have the ability to use a cam to monitor your print from anywhere and there is a multitude of apps available for iPhone and android to give you full control, its genius.
@@raygilfillan Different strokes. I have video, and remote shutdown. I prefer to be there to monitor and adjust as needed.
My ender 3 always stops extruding randomly, I changed the ptfe tube, and it didn't help, I also tried to take the filement out, but it didnt work, do you know why?
Plastic extruder? Swap for metal one
Can you show all of the physical connections to the Pi? how its powered and where its plugged in on the printer.
5V/3A power supply, connected by the usb mini-b port.
This and then USB from pi to printer mainboard. Plug in USB webcam if desired.
so you aren't running it from the Ender powersupply?
No but I will be covering that scenario in the future. Still ordering and trialling parts.
Are the TL-smoother still worth it with the ender 3 pro? Is it the same mainboard?
Same mainboard. I haven't bothered fitting them because it is subtle and I had no good result when testing on the standard Ender 3. Others had more success however, it is strange.
Hi Michael, On the Creality webpage for the Ender 3 Pro it shows a picture of the Mean Well power supply to be a model RSP-500-24 which is 21 amps and 500 Watts. What I got with my Ender 3 Pro was a Mean Well model LRS-350-24 which is 14.6 amps and 350 watts. Could you kindly check and see which power supply came with your Ender 3 Pro. Also, is a 350 watt power supply sufficient for this printer or does it need to be more like the 500 watt power supply shown on the creality webpage? Any thoughts on this?
Thank you for all of the wonderful content that you provide. Your teaching style is excellent!
I have recently checked and it has the 250. Pretty shady on Creality's part.
Coupon code for the pro doesn't work for me. Says it's only for specific items?
It might have now expired. I'll update if I get a new one.
Banggood Ender 3 Pro coupon expired?!?
I'm considering getting a Ender 3 as my first ever 3D printer (som completely green to all this). Would you suggest to get the original version or Pro? do you now have to turn the printer over when working on the PCB for upgrades (as the box is reversed to the original and I assume the cover is now on the underside) ? For me it will mainly be a hobby project to tinker with the printer itself and upgrade it as well as printing minis for board games.
Ender 3 is perfect for your needs from what you describe. Just remember there is a learning curve and lots of support available in forums and groups. I'd recommend my beginner video: ua-cam.com/video/mAU7cIZ0Hns/v-deo.html
Turning it upside down is a PITA. I think 99% of people would be happy with the standard over Pro, so I would go with that.
@David Yeah, got my standard Ender 3 yesterday, already modded ita bit ;)
So given a choice, which printer would you rather have. The Ender 3 or the CR10 Mini and why. I have the Mini and love it. I have a friend who wants to get into 3d printing and wondering which one to recommend.
I haven't used the cr10 mini so cannot comment, but people who have both say that they prefer the mini. It has more features and more price, correct?
I haven't used the cr10 mini so cannot comment, but people who have both say that they prefer the mini. It has more features and more price, correct?
@@TeachingTech
Except for the option to add the auto bed leveling feature, I think the mini is a better deal (personally) It's almost fully assembled, larger build area etc.
But like the Ender, I have printed many enhancements for my mini.
What is your opinion of the Alfawise U20? I know it is not open source. But by the reivews, it is a really great printer?
Not that one but I have my first Alfawise in the mail to review. Will form a better impression after that.
What version of the Alfawise do you have coming? My printer choice will probably be the Creality 3D Ender3. But if money is good, I will get the pro version. If money is low, I will have to settle for the lesser version!🤔🤔 Thank you for the reply!
Oh, and while at it, what model is the newer Meanwell PSU? (supposedly better and safer) (might want one if I get the original Ender 3)
Please see pinned post, it has the details.
@@TeachingTech Hmm, sorry, but what pinned post? Do you mean the video info field?
@@SteinerSE sorry, I mixed up which video this was replying to. See the description here: ua-cam.com/video/TAUWlJt2Hmg/v-deo.html
are the upgrades the same for the pro and the X please? thx!
Read the description, what you want is there.
You never mentioned why you are now suggesting Capricorn tubing. When I suggested it to you in an earlier video you didn’t seem to agree.
If I recall that was a discussion over using it as a substitute for high temps over an all metal hot end. This is the second video I've made on cap tubing for the Ender 3. The reason I suggest it is to address the many people who had issues with poor quality fittings and tube when the printer first came out.
Hows the bullseye instead of the petsfang?
so should i grease my zrod ?
Why would you have an extruder wheel?
It helps load and unload filament, plus serves as a visual indicator of extruder movement while printing.
There is some sort of odd satisfaction watching that little gear turn.
which pkg of nuts and bolts were they round head or were they hex head
Thanks for yet another great video.
_But can you (or anybody) help with where I can actually buy genuine Capricorn tubing in, or shipped to, Australia?_
Amazon tells me, _"We are unable to ship non-digital items from __amazon.com__ to Australian shipping addresses,"_ when I try to buy the Capricorn tubing and connectors.
Amazon Australia doesn't have the Capricorn tubing, and they seem to have is Teflon Bowden tubing made by PoPprinter, who I've never heard of.
I ordered straight from their website. Shipping costs are annoying.
Thanks a lot for the response. Convenient that they also sell couplings. :)
Can u tell me what screws i need use for this motor dampners i ordered them through amazon but i dont get any screws :|
Normally you can use the standard screws. Sometimes they are too long. You want M3 x 6 or 8 mm.
thx
coupon code not working
Why insist of printing the LCD cover where you need to replace the 4 screws with longer ones. Thingiverse have a perfect one which uses the factory screws. -No need to replace them.
Are you using an ender 3 pro?
Hi Michael, made most up grades. My Ender 3 is working.
Ok I'm using Cura 15.04.2 every time it open it wants me to use the up grade Cura.
So what do i do?
Maybe upgrade it?
If you don't want to upgrade there may be an option to turn off update checking in the settings.
Could not turn it off Was told to use Cura 15.04.2 when i tried mimi ,
will it work better to upgrade ?
why would you not upgrade to a later version of cura? I;m just wondering what would make you decide a later version of a program is a bad thing or not advised?
Hey Michael, the imho best filament guide period is this one: www.thingiverse.com/thing:2456930 You can make the inserted PTFE Tube a bit longer for the filament to be fed in a more convenient angle. You can still use your extruder knob. Drill a hole in the top section of the cover and you're good to go. I use this combination on both my CR 10 and Ender 2. The filament guide you have installed will not protect your printers feeding hole. Over time the filament will grind down your extrunder lever on the top side of the feeding hole. It is constantly grinding on it when feeding filament in. The best solution is a PTFE tube to guide the Filament. Like your Videos a lot. Cheers.
Good points, thanks for sharing.
Hi TT Amazon .com will not ship to Australia. Banggood Coupon doesn't work. Do you have any links for GB with a coupon
I don't sorry, I find them much harder to deal with. I'll update if I come across a new code.
I've just emailed BG to see if they can help.
Here is a new coupon for the Pro: bit.ly/2OUcEyS （$30 OFF Coupon:1d1c08）
@@TeachingTech Thanks Michael will give it a try
Excellent, thank you, I’ve not modded mine much but will after seeing this! Could you please share your fff profile for Simplifi3d for PLA? Cheers
I have a video on tuning slicing software, it is linked to thingiverse in the description.
Teaching Tech . Thanks, I will have a look. Glad you said it’s on Thingiverse and not the spyware of Facebook. Cheers
What do you recommend for bolt kit?
Sorry for the comment you got it down in the description
Hi
I’ve just ordered the Ender 3 pro printer doI need a computer to use the printer I’ve only used and got apple iPad can this be used to print on the printer
Regards
Paul
No, you will need a computer, unfortunately.