As a 71 year old retired photographer I admire your working by yourself, and the physicality that goes with it, but it will come back to haunt you when you are older. I'm watching the clock to see when I can take my next pain pill. Since you are quite handy making stuff, why not rig up a portable crane? The Australian tank and armor museum has an 'A' frame rig that they roll around to help with jobs just like this. Pain pill time. 😀😀😀
My knees hurt in sympathy as I watched him horse that ironmongery off the tank. You are quite correct. Morphine pills work,but doing without is way better.
This is a good point, i own a garage, order a gearbox on a pallet and fella delivering says " grab and end pal and lets set it down" . no put it on your pallet jack, onto the tail lift, let it down, drag it in, and ill use lifting gear from there. Ive seen MANY a fella on pain pills for back injurys, and im enough of a man to say no. bravado will bite you. stay safe :)
Many years in the field jumping off my M60A3 instead of dismounting "properly", now at prad bitt n dohnny jepp's age, oh da pain bring it to my knees please ahahahaha. A good day I walk, the bad one's this deltaforcelandwarriormofo may have to crawl. knee's are beat to crap, pounded from poor landings launchin off fender's of the greatest vehicles to be devised. PRICELESS! bizin the hizin everyday for my pain, tough breaks doh.
Brings back memories helping my dad work on his lorry. I had a canvass sling I used to put round the starter motor then over my shoulders to lift it and lower it down to him under the lorry to fit it. All seemed ok helping dad until I got changed at school for PE teacher saw rope marks on my back. Took some explaining to the school nurse. I went home with a letter for mum she was not happy. But I was helping dad on his lorry. Think I was 11 at the time 😅😅😅😅😅
I have a compressor that fills compressed air for diving bottles you can have. It goes upto a ridiculous pressure. I was using it for a fighting robot at the time. It's now surplus to requirements.
@@DAGO58 It was a design whereby instead of using a hydraulic power pack for a crushing claw, I was going to use compressed air because the set up is a lot lighter and weight is a big consideration. The heavy weight division is a max of 110kg.
What a top chap if he doesn’t need it this guy on you tube was looking for one for his home made air train engine ua-cam.com/video/QLpsTR888CY/v-deo.html
thank you for your videos much better since you're doing it yourself, it is a pleasure to watch tank mechanics with a farming mentality. no blaming the tools or weather where there is a will there's a way every tool is a multitool with a hammer attached to every tool always there! keep up these fantastic videos.
Congratulations on being a Grandson of a Kursk Hero. I was born in the White Russian part of Shanghai 4/15/45. I may be about your father's age. For me no Tanks, but Aeroplanes. Blessings.
I have just bing watched you whole collection, and applaud your "can do" attitude. as a marine engineer, there is no going down the shops for the right part when at sea, so I see many parallels with your job, well done. One minor correction (look out here come the " your doing it wrong" bit), is your explanation of how the in injector pump "throttles", and you sort of had it right, but the pedant in me came out to play. You are sort of right about the overlapping holes, but they spill the pressure in the plunger back to the return line rather than allowing the fuel through to the injector. The injector starts "squirting" as soon as the plunger starts raising in its sleeve, and so the start of injection is the same place relative to the piston stroke regards of the RPM. What is being controlled is how long the injector is squirting for, and hence how much fuel is being injected into the cylinder. The plunger has a spiral groove machined in the outside of the plunger that goes nowhere and so allows the generation of pressure, and the spill port is on the sleeve the plunger runs inside, as the sleeve it rotated more and more to get more fuel into the engine, hence the spiral groove, the plunger travels further up the sleeve before uncovering the spill port and stopping injection. The term "pull the rack" for stopping the engine refers to the spill port being open as soon as the plunger starts raising, so generating no pressure, so no fuel so stop. As more and more power is required the rack moves to make the spill port opening later and later in the stroke. The correct timing point is as the fuel starts to raise in the #1 plunger discharge port, where the line to the injector screws on. The critical time is just as the fuel starts to raise, and can be hart to see. On large diesel engines the injector pump is an individual item for that cylinder only, and are linked together by the rack control rod, and have to be timed by adjusting the fuel cam lobe on the cam shaft for each cylinder, made adjustable by being able to rotate the cam lobe to the correct position and then locking it in place, too fiddly for small diesels. The main difference between old and modern diesels is the ability to vary the start of injection point, not a simple thing to do, know as VIT, Variable Injection Timing. hard to do on cam driven injection systems (requiring another sleeve concentric to the plunger to change the start of injection point), but piece of piss on a common rail modern system, but the Luddite in me comes out as there is no fixing the new system on the side of the road. If you want your mind to be blown, look into Sulzer marine diesel injection control boxes. Robby Coltrain (Hagred) does an interesting review on it in has "Coltrains plains and automobiles" series from 2000, the one about diesel engines, makes me old I know. Keep up the good work, and as you already know, if its stupid but it works, it isn't stupid.
Easiest way to free up a seized plunger is to remove the delivery valve holder, remove the spring and take out the actual valve leaving the body in place and using a brass only drift not steel or alloy tap the plunger back down. Been using this system on Gardners, Listers, Ruston,Kelvins,Dormans and 100's of others for an easy 40years now. Fill chamber of pump with clean diesel, WD40 etc snd pump it thru fir a few revolutions and you will be sorted.
Did that last time. Plunger heads snapped and the WD40 bath didn't work through much. Also getting the springs back in is a bloody pain with the collects.
The only times Ive ever seen the foot of a plunger snap off on any element right up to plungers 30mm plus in diameter is when the rack has seized and the engine run away to insane rpm. Had an Isuzu engine in a rubbish truck run away and its mechanical cable driven tacho went right around the dial and actually bent the needle. Reckon she went to sumwhere around 8000rpm before the kaboom happened. 4 out of 6 plungers snapped off.
Joe It is amazing what you and your crew do with these different systems. You have learned quite allot Especially when you do not have manuals on these armored vehicles nor any school trained guys to assist. You all do a great job.
😂😂 borrowed a "working injection pump" and spend hours refreshing it to be able to actually use it. Fantastic deal for the friend who loaned it to you, free labour and repair.
A couple of tips regarding old inline pumps like these: In my experience, it is a good idea to fill the fuel chamber of the pump with clean diesel, WD40 etc before you start to move/free upthe rack. Sometimes the pump elements dry up when stored for long and sticks due to the fine tolerance between the barrel and plunger which require lubrication from fuel. And forcing it to move without lubrication, could cause scarring and damage to the elements. Also, be sure to check the pumps oil level. This style of pump is lubricated by a small quantity of motor oil. There is a level and a drain plug in the housing. Or sometimes there are small dipsticks that you pull out. Sometimes the regulator section where the throttle lever goes inn, and the pumping section where the pump cam is located are separated and the oil level must be checked in both places. This is the case on many old Bosch pumps, but I'm not sure if yours are like this. Usually it is a good idea to change out the oil and possibly flush it as well when you have the chance like this, because quite often it is still the factory fill that's inside and it will be contaminated with fuel that leaks past the pump plungers in small amounts during operation. They use ordinary motor oil like a 15w/40, 10w/30 or simular. They are not picky, just use the same oil that's in the crankcase. Usually any new oil is better than whats in it. Keep ut the good work! Cheers
Very interesting to see the inner workings of the injector pump, & the process to free the pump's metering rack & injector plungers. I'm glad the injector pump's internal parts "freed up", & hope the pump works as it should, during the engine starting process. Hopefully, no (major) issues will be found with the engine, & it starts & runs satisfactorily. Looking forward to the next video!
Thanx Joe - these videos are so interesting and fascinating! I really appreciate that you film your work and share such technical details on these amazing old military vehicles - your channel is a real treat! And I always love seeing Ted, too!
Got admit Mr H these videos are getting better and better !! Loving the explanation of what your doing first class Camera wise it sounds like you need one of those famous go pro coz there's nothing worse than having something dangling in front of your eyes!!! 🤑
Can do and go on to do attitude is admirable. Such an attitude is, as you show, not extinct in this country, but much too rare. Guys like you solve problems, not whinge about the problem being there and it’s someone else’s fault.
Your attention to detail is quite refreshing. Of course it's going to start... it may cough and fart a bit.. but it will start.:) looking forward to hearing the beasty run!
In Ep. 4 you got the original pump working fairly well, spraying diesel all over yourself and the workshop and Ep. 5 where you moved the tank into its own shop. I've watched (binged) all your other vids but didn't see where you put the pump back in the engine and tried starting it. I'm guessing there was work done and other issues found? I love the way you just keep your shoulder in this work and keep looking for the solution to all the problems these machines have.
This was one of your best videos yet in my opinion!! This kind of mechanical in depth work with everything well explained working on your. (Project car/tank) was mint. More like this please sir.
It would be a good idea to check the delivery valves are free if the elements were siezed. It also looks like the governor housing should have oil in it as it looks like there is a drain and level plug in the end plate. Very interesting to see what you are up to.
we got a 52 AEC regent III it has that style of pump, you have to pull back on the pedal with your foot to turn it off, doesn't always work and you have to block of wood the intake
If it just needed new brushes and a scrub up of the commutator with a piece of emery paper, £50 sounds reasonable. If it needed bushes, drive gears and the commutator needed truing up on a lathe as well, you’re looking at £200+. That it’s heavy AF doesn’t affect the cost of a new set of brushes.
An old school motor palce that will simply replace the brushes, clean up the commutator and place the stator on a buzzer will be around that figure, expet to recieve it back every bit as dirty as you sent it, but functional. We had a place near us that did this, was like steeping back in time when you went into their workshop, expected your eyes to change to black&white.
Except for it's size I thought the injection pump looked reminiscent of the Bosch inline pumps you see on some Deutz engines, even down to the governor being in the casing where the throttle lever is located (though on the ones i've seen on Mecalecs on the opposite side is the shut down lever that "overides" the rack position set by the governor cutting the fuel to the pumping elements and hence the injectors).
good effort Joe, working on ya jack jones into the night, i know well what its like, good job your so nimble on your toes, wish i still was, that seems to be failing me, broke back last year and got some pains in various joints, touch of gout, falling apart like a tank, just go steady working in the cold, it will catch you up and like your oldy tanks, you'll appreciate why things don't work after a certain age, go give Ted his tea and crumpet
Recently discovered your channel and love the bants mixed in with interesting mechanical tank content. Get yourself an overhead hoist though, your back will thank you later! Give Ted a pat on the head for me, great dog! Tom
If the elements are stuck then there's a good chance that it's buggered. The tolerance is very tight and any corrosion means they won't pump properly. Although I have seen videos of tanks that have been burried for years in wet mud start! Do you know what type of governor it has? That's certainly a big pump, be a big job balancing all the elements. Remember always crack off injection pipes at injectors to prime.
Hmm, high pressure starting air? Local dive shop can supply high pressure bottles. Or you can go down the avenue Mr Milo did and get an old scuba air refill pump.
At the point where you found out the loaner part wasnt functioning...i woulda just been: "welp! Miaswell pull mine out and see if anything is wrong with it" Rather not do the diagnosis twice just to see if its the problem or not.
My great-grandfather participated in World War 2 on such a tank. Nice to see, thanks for the video.
As a 71 year old retired photographer I admire your working by yourself, and the
physicality that goes with it, but it will come back to haunt you when you are
older. I'm watching the clock to see when I can take my next pain pill. Since you
are quite handy making stuff, why not rig up a portable crane? The Australian tank
and armor museum has an 'A' frame rig that they roll around to help with jobs just
like this.
Pain pill time. 😀😀😀
My knees hurt in sympathy as I watched him horse that ironmongery off the tank. You are quite correct. Morphine pills work,but doing without is way better.
This is a good point, i own a garage, order a gearbox on a pallet and fella delivering says " grab and end pal and lets set it down" . no put it on your pallet jack, onto the tail lift, let it down, drag it in, and ill use lifting gear from there. Ive seen MANY a fella on pain pills for back injurys, and im enough of a man to say no. bravado will bite you. stay safe :)
should add, some kind of gantry crane is almost a must given the heavy stuff going on here. and I bet you could rig one up from scrap.
Many years in the field jumping off my M60A3 instead of dismounting "properly", now at prad bitt n dohnny jepp's age, oh da pain bring it to my knees please ahahahaha.
A good day I walk, the bad one's this deltaforcelandwarriormofo may have to crawl.
knee's are beat to crap, pounded from poor landings launchin off fender's of the greatest vehicles to be devised.
PRICELESS!
bizin the hizin everyday for my pain, tough breaks doh.
Indeed.
Brings back memories helping my dad work on his lorry. I had a canvass sling I used to put round the starter motor then over my shoulders to lift it and lower it down to him under the lorry to fit it. All seemed ok helping dad until I got changed at school for PE teacher saw rope marks on my back. Took some explaining to the school nurse. I went home with a letter for mum she was not happy. But I was helping dad on his lorry. Think I was 11 at the time 😅😅😅😅😅
Настоящий мужик. (Real Man 💪)
I have a compressor that fills compressed air for diving bottles you can have. It goes upto a ridiculous pressure. I was using it for a fighting robot at the time. It's now surplus to requirements.
Tell me more about this fighting robot please…
@@DAGO58 It was a design whereby instead of using a hydraulic power pack for a crushing claw, I was going to use compressed air because the set up is a lot lighter and weight is a big consideration. The heavy weight division is a max of 110kg.
That's really nice of you.
What a top chap if he doesn’t need it this guy on you tube was looking for one for his home made air train engine ua-cam.com/video/QLpsTR888CY/v-deo.html
Watching you work and lifting heavy items reminds me when I was your age , now that I am 64 with bad knees bad back l wish that I was your age again
A friend who just happened to have a spare T-34 injector pump. Wish I had friends like that 🙂
Surround yourself with the right people
@@MrHewes even better would be one who sends you a spare T-34 injector pump that doesn't come as a complete piece of scrap out of the box.
"Came from a known running engine" in 1945.
A really great friend, half a day to fix a "fully working" injector!!😅
Yes great🖖🏼🙏
thank you for your videos much better since you're doing it yourself, it is a pleasure to watch tank mechanics with a farming mentality. no blaming the tools or weather where there is a will there's a way every tool is a multitool with a hammer attached to every tool always there! keep up these fantastic videos.
Привет из России с уважением к вам за такую работу!!мой дедушка был танкистом воевал на Курской дуге и дошёл до берлина
Congratulations on being a Grandson of a Kursk Hero.
I was born in the White Russian part of Shanghai 4/15/45.
I may be about your father's age. For me no Tanks, but Aeroplanes.
Blessings.
I have just bing watched you whole collection, and applaud your "can do" attitude. as a marine engineer, there is no going down the shops for the right part when at sea, so I see many parallels with your job, well done.
One minor correction (look out here come the " your doing it wrong" bit), is your explanation of how the in injector pump "throttles", and you sort of had it right, but the pedant in me came out to play. You are sort of right about the overlapping holes, but they spill the pressure in the plunger back to the return line rather than allowing the fuel through to the injector. The injector starts "squirting" as soon as the plunger starts raising in its sleeve, and so the start of injection is the same place relative to the piston stroke regards of the RPM. What is being controlled is how long the injector is squirting for, and hence how much fuel is being injected into the cylinder.
The plunger has a spiral groove machined in the outside of the plunger that goes nowhere and so allows the generation of pressure, and the spill port is on the sleeve the plunger runs inside, as the sleeve it rotated more and more to get more fuel into the engine, hence the spiral groove, the plunger travels further up the sleeve before uncovering the spill port and stopping injection.
The term "pull the rack" for stopping the engine refers to the spill port being open as soon as the plunger starts raising, so generating no pressure, so no fuel so stop.
As more and more power is required the rack moves to make the spill port opening later and later in the stroke.
The correct timing point is as the fuel starts to raise in the #1 plunger discharge port, where the line to the injector screws on. The critical time is just as the fuel starts to raise, and can be hart to see.
On large diesel engines the injector pump is an individual item for that cylinder only, and are linked together by the rack control rod, and have to be timed by adjusting the fuel cam lobe on the cam shaft for each cylinder, made adjustable by being able to rotate the cam lobe to the correct position and then locking it in place, too fiddly for small diesels.
The main difference between old and modern diesels is the ability to vary the start of injection point, not a simple thing to do, know as VIT, Variable Injection Timing. hard to do on cam driven injection systems (requiring another sleeve concentric to the plunger to change the start of injection point), but piece of piss on a common rail modern system, but the Luddite in me comes out as there is no fixing the new system on the side of the road.
If you want your mind to be blown, look into Sulzer marine diesel injection control boxes. Robby Coltrain (Hagred) does an interesting review on it in has "Coltrains plains and automobiles" series from 2000, the one about diesel engines, makes me old I know.
Keep up the good work, and as you already know, if its stupid but it works, it isn't stupid.
Easiest way to free up a seized plunger is to remove the delivery valve holder, remove the spring and take out the actual valve leaving the body in place and using a brass only drift not steel or alloy tap the plunger back down. Been using this system on Gardners, Listers, Ruston,Kelvins,Dormans and 100's of others for an easy 40years now.
Fill chamber of pump with clean diesel, WD40 etc snd pump it thru fir a few revolutions and you will be sorted.
Yeah best way. Would have had that pump free in minutes.
Did that last time. Plunger heads snapped and the WD40 bath didn't work through much. Also getting the springs back in is a bloody pain with the collects.
You mean the foot or bottom of the plungers snapped off?
Holy crap.
@@matui6983 Yeah I guess the foot? I called it the head because it's the bit that looks like a mushroom top lol
The only times Ive ever seen the foot of a plunger snap off on any element right up to plungers 30mm plus in diameter is when the rack has seized and the engine run away to insane rpm.
Had an Isuzu engine in a rubbish truck run away and its mechanical cable driven tacho went right around the dial and actually bent the needle. Reckon she went to sumwhere around 8000rpm before the kaboom happened. 4 out of 6 plungers snapped off.
Joe It is amazing what you and your crew do with these different systems. You have learned quite allot Especially when you do not have manuals on these armored vehicles nor any school trained guys to assist. You all do a great job.
I love these kind of technical videos! And that tank just b a r e l y fitting in the garage makes it look so comfy in there :D
Your mate said it was a 'good' one. I reckon he lent it to you knowing you would fix it!
😂😂 borrowed a "working injection pump" and spend hours refreshing it to be able to actually use it. Fantastic deal for the friend who loaned it to you, free labour and repair.
A couple of tips regarding old inline pumps like these:
In my experience, it is a good idea to fill the fuel chamber of the pump with clean diesel, WD40 etc before you start to move/free upthe rack. Sometimes the pump elements dry up when stored for long and sticks due to the fine tolerance between the barrel and plunger which require lubrication from fuel. And forcing it to move without lubrication, could cause scarring and damage to the elements.
Also, be sure to check the pumps oil level.
This style of pump is lubricated by a small quantity of motor oil. There is a level and a drain plug in the housing. Or sometimes there are small dipsticks that you pull out.
Sometimes the regulator section where the throttle lever goes inn, and the pumping section where the pump cam is located are separated and the oil level must be checked in both places. This is the case on many old Bosch pumps, but I'm not sure if yours are like this.
Usually it is a good idea to change out the oil and possibly flush it as well when you have the chance like this, because quite often it is still the factory fill that's inside and it will be contaminated with fuel that leaks past the pump plungers in small amounts during operation.
They use ordinary motor oil like a 15w/40, 10w/30 or simular. They are not picky, just use the same oil that's in the crankcase. Usually any new oil is better than whats in it.
Keep ut the good work!
Cheers
Просто в гараж на техническое обслуживание приехал т-34-85!) Стартер весит 45 кг!
Very interesting to see the inner workings of the injector pump, & the process to free the pump's metering rack & injector plungers. I'm glad the injector pump's internal parts "freed up", & hope the pump works as it should, during the engine starting process. Hopefully, no (major) issues will be found with the engine, & it starts & runs satisfactorily. Looking forward to the next video!
Thanx Joe - these videos are so interesting and fascinating! I really appreciate that you film your work and share such technical details on these amazing old military vehicles - your channel is a real treat! And I always love seeing Ted, too!
You are really pumping out those videos! love it!
Fascinating to see this in bits and your explanation is brilliant, really enjoying your videos, keep it up your figures are going to rocket.
Loan part from a known good runner 😳 Thanks for going into detail about the freeing up etc 👍
I think what my buddy meant was it was running when it left the factory lol
What’s the story of ur T34 ending up here
@@MrHewes Well, I'm sure he'll appreciate you getting it running again for him!
Thank you for all the uploads, your spoiling us with so many videos, loving the content 🙂👍🔥
Got admit Mr H these videos are getting better and better !!
Loving the explanation of what your doing first class
Camera wise it sounds like you need one of those famous go pro coz there's nothing worse than having something dangling in front of your eyes!!! 🤑
Great work. I like this style of video. Good workshop stuff. Thanks
Your knowledge of this motor is amazing.
Great video. Very clearly explained. Thank you
Can do and go on to do attitude is admirable. Such an attitude is, as you show, not extinct in this country, but much too rare. Guys like you solve problems, not whinge about the problem being there and it’s someone else’s fault.
Your attention to detail is quite refreshing.
Of course it's going to start... it may cough and fart a bit.. but it will start.:)
looking forward to hearing the beasty run!
In Ep. 4 you got the original pump working fairly well, spraying diesel all over yourself and the workshop and Ep. 5 where you moved the tank into its own shop. I've watched (binged) all your other vids but didn't see where you put the pump back in the engine and tried starting it. I'm guessing there was work done and other issues found? I love the way you just keep your shoulder in this work and keep looking for the solution to all the problems these machines have.
Ya did a right good job on freeing up all the injectors, cheers mate.
Great vid, calm, detailed and methodical. Looking forward to the next!
Great explanation, gotta hand it to the engineers & assembly personnel that worked under life or death conditions to build these during the Great War
WW1 was called "The Great War". Not WW 2 when the T34's were built, but yes apart from that.
This was one of your best videos yet in my opinion!! This kind of mechanical in depth work with everything well explained working on your. (Project car/tank) was mint. More like this please sir.
It would be a good idea to check the delivery valves are free if the elements were siezed. It also looks like the governor housing should have oil in it as it looks like there is a drain and level plug in the end plate. Very interesting to see what you are up to.
Ya mates played ya. Just as easily done all that ta ya own blinkin pump. Ya mates gettin back a rebuild pump. E owes ya a beer.
I just found you, and this excursion into a T34 looks very interesting. Hard work, judging by the weight of everything.
I'm autistic and this is my dream job, ive worked on machines before and I love the jobs everyone seems to hate.
Good luck mate. I haven’t got a clue, but the injector cleaning was super helpful for that bmw m3 restore on my bucket list😅
Hi pal I really enjoy your videos keep up the good work and you lot have me in stitches every video!
Man, you are good at this.
I do so hope I can find a future vid from you that tells us how you came into the knowledge :)
Great vid , hope she starts, got some British evaluation manuals on the T34 top secret 💨💨👍
You have to be thankful that the pump you borrowed was perfectly serviceable.
we got a 52 AEC regent III it has that style of pump, you have to pull back on the pedal with your foot to turn it off, doesn't always work and you have to block of wood the intake
I noticed that both fuel pumps had their drain plugs missing. I hope this is something you sorted behind scenes. 😊
Porper love these videos, find them really interesting. I appreciate how much time and effort you put into making them too.
Приветствую механик водитель! Отпусти аппарат в керосин, и через некоторое время всё заработает без проблем.
Very well explained sir , bloody interesting .
Great episode. Like the video that shows how it works , how you put it together and set it up,😎👌
Tanks for doing them 🤣
First time i've heard a starter motor be "reconditioned" for £50 ! Also would love some more of the head cam POV it just has a bit more depth to it
Ha il try and do more but the phone covers my eyes 🤣
If it just needed new brushes and a scrub up of the commutator with a piece of emery paper, £50 sounds reasonable. If it needed bushes, drive gears and the commutator needed truing up on a lathe as well, you’re looking at £200+. That it’s heavy AF doesn’t affect the cost of a new set of brushes.
Ye doesn't take long to sort out a starter with brushes and a clean.
@@MrHewes Ah fair enough, i assumed you had one of them little Gopros strapped to ur head but i can imagine a phone can get obnoxious
An old school motor palce that will simply replace the brushes, clean up the commutator and place the stator on a buzzer will be around that figure, expet to recieve it back every bit as dirty as you sent it, but functional. We had a place near us that did this, was like steeping back in time when you went into their workshop, expected your eyes to change to black&white.
Hows that a ‘known good working’ pump with all those injectors seized then? Last tested in 1945 Stalingrad presumably?
🤣🤣🤣
Masterful work
Winter timing and summer timing - would that be because the clocks go back in winter?
Спасибо мужики за работу Т 34 это гордость Русского Народа
Советского народа... Нацист 🤦🏿♂️
Except for it's size I thought the injection pump looked reminiscent of the Bosch inline pumps you see on some Deutz engines, even down to the governor being in the casing where the throttle lever is located (though on the ones i've seen on Mecalecs on the opposite side is the shut down lever that "overides" the rack position set by the governor cutting the fuel to the pumping elements and hence the injectors).
A great informative video , well done you ! Cheers mate from Rick in Sydney Australia 🇦🇺 👍
I doubt we have many of those in Australia
good effort Joe, working on ya jack jones into the night, i know well what its like, good job your so nimble on your toes, wish i still was, that seems to be failing me, broke back last year and got some pains in various joints, touch of gout, falling apart like a tank, just go steady working in the cold, it will catch you up and like your oldy tanks, you'll appreciate why things don't work after a certain age, go give Ted his tea and crumpet
Mint!! Top work as usual Mr H 👌💪
I used to have to unseize my diesel pump on my old Gardner engine , always worked after a good old lube up and fettling.
So happy my old diesel tractor has only three cylinders!
That was NOT off a running engine 🤣 great mate!!!
I got swindled and pimped
Парни Вот за это БОЛЬШОЕ СПАСИБО.
Learned something new today. Thank you!!!
Of course, it will start, it's mint!
Pretty amazing ... well done so far!
this is str8 mental! great job
It maybe worth buying an old scuba tank compressor and scuba tanks to use for the air start
If you’ve ever wondered when you might need a giant ultrasonic bath, now is that time. 😂
Thank you for sharing this with us
Are you sure that pump came of a well known good engine. 😀Talk about ending on a cliff hanger 😁
Интересно смотреть на твоей работой. Всё понятно. Нравиться.
Another great informative video thanks
Amazing , I love this tank !! and now i love your videos !! :D Hello from Czech Republic
I like the faded look of it
Pump mate, perfect mate, all good mate,cash only😁
Recently discovered your channel and love the bants mixed in with interesting mechanical tank content. Get yourself an overhead hoist though, your back will thank you later!
Give Ted a pat on the head for me, great dog!
Tom
''Have a little faith baby!'' She will start😁
Very cool video. Thank you !
my mum loves it....she wants a T34
N x
Great video, I learned loads! I think it won’t work 😂
Good luck … looking forward to it bursting into life
You could check with a fire department and see if they can fill a tank of breathing air for you?
If the elements are stuck then there's a good chance that it's buggered.
The tolerance is very tight and any corrosion means they won't pump properly.
Although I have seen videos of tanks that have been burried for years in wet mud start!
Do you know what type of governor it has?
That's certainly a big pump, be a big job balancing all the elements.
Remember always crack off injection pipes at injectors to prime.
Best channel on UA-cam someboys you lot
Best video I have ever watched
Great video
Gonna need some смекалка to get that baby going!
Yeah! I'll give it a chance, might not be perfect but it'll run.
Enjoyed that..
You should remove the plug in the top of the governer and check that there's oil in there and not rusty water!!
Танк победы!
Hmm, high pressure starting air? Local dive shop can supply high pressure bottles. Or you can go down the avenue Mr Milo did and get an old scuba air refill pump.
Christ, and there was me thinking boats are a pain in the arse !!😮
Parabens pelos otimos vídeos, esse blindado e meu preferido, estou acompanhando tudo.
"the old man was coming in to talk about solar panels" 🤣
Спасибо Бро! Тридцатьчетвёрка пойдёт. Верю. 🤝
At the point where you found out the loaner part wasnt functioning...i woulda just been: "welp! Miaswell pull mine out and see if anything is wrong with it"
Rather not do the diagnosis twice just to see if its the problem or not.
Watch the other parts 🤣
The tank is in good shape for as old as it is.what factory is it from?
I reckon you can make it go 👍🏼🏴☠️✌🏼
The squares on the pump end cover are made to allow air to be push out as the mold is filled with metal...