I have a permanently installed 8 kW genset, propane fuel from 2 100 gal cylinders, and an automatic transfer switch. It's saved the day a number of times since utilities were "deregulated". If you're going with a portable genset there are three things I'd recommend: (1) Document every circuit breaker at your service entrance. Make sure you have a list of every load that every circuit breaker serves. With a 200 A service, you can't power up every circuit with a 7 or 8 kW generator. You can buy a kit to help you do that at Lowe's, Home Depot, or Harbor Freight for $20-25 (or so). (2) Get a "dual fuel" generator - gas or propane, for example. Long term storage of a 20 or 30 # propane tank is much safer than long term storage of 5, 10, or 15 gallons of gasoline in a can in your garage or pole barn. (3) If you go with gas, use ONLY non-ethanol (and do this religiously) - like in your lawn mower or boat.
Great advice. All small engines.. no ethanol. Only way it would be ok is if you are running your generator non stop. You can not store Ethanol blended fuel long term....unless you like cleaning fuel systems.
I've been using regular pump gas in all the equipment I've accumulated since I bought my house 13 years ago. It keeps for up to two years if you stabilize it properly. I'm up to about 20 pieces of equipment and they all still have the original carbs, etc. Haven't had a single fuel issue in anything. The real key is to always shut off the fuel and run the carburetor dry, if you do the equipment will be fine. Buying ethanol-free is expensive, difficult and totally unnecessary.
Another nice thing about these manual transfer switches is that you leave one circuit not desired on genset power to alert you when line power is back with a radio and/or light plugged in. I keep my main HVAC breaker off until I know power from the grid has stabilized anyway and this is the way to go for alerting you safely.
The copper work in my 60 year old US Steel home is a total work of art! It's nice to see the pride that some installers exhibit for copper instalation.
I liked how they both agreed that the driveway was not the ideal location for the generator, but they both walked off camera at 2:00 and left it in the driveway.
Elvis inNY - Dude, it's a video filmed by This Old House....It is not a movie... I'm pretty sure they either had people in and around this entire set up and they could have easily moved the generator into the garage if they felt they needed to.. From what I could see in that wide shot out front, these people do not live in the Hood, so it's pretty safe there even if just for a while..
@@frandanco6289 I think Elvis was more referring to the point that they didn't take the generator with them to the backyard even though they both agreed to take it there. Theft was not the point of his comment.
Interesting episode. We lived for a week and a half after a bad storm on a 4500 watt gen. Had lights, refrigerator and ran our gas fired furnace. When we cooked on an electric skillet I made sure the furnace wasn't going to kick on. All done with extension cords. I need to look into a manual transfer.
Kevin N thanks, that helped out alot because im currently looking to purchase one living WA. Dont need to much to get use through a bad storm or what not. Was looking to get a 7000 watt, but sounds like 4500 does the job.
Kevin N look into the generac meter you plug it right into the meter when you have it plugged in it automatically has a safety inside for when power goes back on it's just way easier and no extra fuse boxes
A cheaper option would be an interlock kit. This option also allows you to choose any circuit you want. The transfer switch limits you to 8 or 10 circuits...depending on the transfer switch you purchase. Search UA-cam for videos about interlock kits.
I think what you show in the video is a really good setup and probably the best way to go for most people. For those thinking of installing a whole house 20kW backup system, I would like to offer an alternative idea to consider. For the same/similar price, you could install a 4kW solar power system with an 8kW generator and battery backup. That way, instead of just sitting there waiting for an emergency, your "solar backup" system is helping to power your home all the time saving you money. When you run a 20kW backup generator, you end up wasting most of that power most of the time and it burns a lot of fuel. With a battery backup, you run the 8kW system, burn less fuel and use all the power to charge the batteries for about 2 hours and then shut if off for about 24 hrs while you run off the battery. Anyway, that's how I do it and it works great!
Just curious how much material cost? And how much installation cost? Or did you do that yourself? How many square feet solar panel going to cover? On roof or separate individual structure? I
@@Jen848the solar backup is just for regular use. In the event of a power outage you would use The generator for a few hours and charge your batteries, then turn it off and use your batteries until they need to be charged again.
Thank you for showing folks how to safely use a generator. Linemen appreciate when you use a transfer switch, those switches save lives while they are out restoring power.
Some people unplug their dryer or electric range and backfeed the house through the plug. It's very unsafe since doing that can send power back through the mains and exposes high voltage on the male prongs of a power cord.
Thanks for the info. Question - why not just put a transfer box in the main line ahead of the breaker box? Run the generator power into the transfer box that runs into the main line breaker box. Then turn the house breakers off or on depending on what circuits you want to use? That way you have access to all the circuits, albeit you wont be able to use all at once.
Recently moved to a small farm out in the sticks. Lots of forests and trees around leads to quite a few outages in our area. Called an electrician and they were all 2-3 months out from being able to do this work, so my wife and I bought the same transfer switch and wired it in ourselves. I wouldnt recommend unless you know what youre doing but even for people with moderate knowledge of home electrical it was pretty easy to install ourselves. Saved us about $500 on a visit too.
great to hear. i can diy plumbing and other diy projects but always afraid of electricity projects. just got hit with a bad outage with this Frida storm so will need something like this.
@@mae2759As long as your main power switch in your panel is switched to off position, you can wire the transfer switch in yourself. It's a very simple hookup. Lots of videos online to assist you. I have done several for friends. It's nice to know if the power goes out you can power up appliances in your home and live comfortably for a period without power from the utility company.
Certainly a better explanation for we the curious. I just have to understand how it works. I probably won’t be the one doing the work but at least I’m certain at how the power flow continues. Great graphics to detail what you were actually doing. Concise and directly to the point always staying on task.
Nice job!! Anyone remember Y2K? I did this in my home in 1999 in preparation of THE GREAT POWER OUTAGE expected in Y2K. I don't regret doing it as it has come in handy a half dozen times since then. My total expense on that project was less than $1200.
@@fordhamdonnington2738 I should have specified, no that was the cost of the Generator, Transfer kit, and the 50' 10gauge 4 wire cord and end adapters. Electrician cost would have been extra but should be able to get the job done in 3 to 4 hours. So I'm guessing the electrician cost Would be around $500.00.
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but sometimes when someone is just jabbering out instructions, I may get a little distracted - - so no matter how corny in appearance, if they have a simple animation like that - - it really brings the project (& end-product) into focus for me. So yes, I do appreciate their animation as well. Thank YOU for adding that time-stamp there!
These things are at least 5 years outdated already. They make manual brackets now that only allow your generator or utility power that feed your whole panel and any sub panels.
@@wx4sno maybe if that panel has such hard to find breakers it would be worth it to switch to a panel you can easily feed entirely by a generator and transfer bracket.
When commercial line power is restored, it is better to FIRST flip all the transfer switches to LINE before shutting down the generator. If you shut down the generator while powering your household circuits, the power fluctuations may damage sensitive electronics or your AC.
Or flipping off the breaker on the generator itself before shutting it down. That’s what it is there for. Just like how they didn’t turn it on until the generator was on.
@@joeythefoxxo Not a good idea if you have TVs or really sensitive electronics on line. An abrupt shut down of the breaker may still allow/cause a large voltage fluctuation. better to shut off via the transfer switch for the sensitive circuit.
Truthfully, you should switch each circuit to GEN or Line, one at a time, allowing a few seconds before moving the switch. This will allow the generator to stabilize and minimize power fluctuations.
Thank You. One question/concern, during outages, how is it safe to have Gen on, and then when power grid is restored, they’re both feeding the same breaker to same outlets lights/appliances? Aren’t I suppose to turn the other 10 Breakers in the main panel “Off”?… And when power grid restores, then turn Gen Off, and the 10 chosen breakers at the Main Panel back to the “On” position?? I’m a bit confused. Could you please clarify this concern? Thank You, kindly, in advance. Sincerely 🙏🏼
Good question. The Transfer Switch will only allow power, from either GEN or Line power to those circuits. (Never both at the same time) With this type of Transfer Switch, you will never need to touch anything in the Main Control Panel.
You mentioned that two wires are needed for 240 volts but in order to achieve that, you need two different 120 lines. How do you determine this using your transfer box. You omitted some clarity on this point. THANKS
This video segment is more of an informational and educational video than an instructional video. Step by step instructional videos are available on the UA-cam channel for Reliance Controls, and the connection of a 240v circuit is addressed. The bus bar is laid out so that every adjacent switch/breaker is on a different phase of the generator, so any two adjacent switches can be wired to a 240v circuit of the appropriate amp rating.
I just isolated the circuits in a sub panel with a feed from the inv/charger. This line also has a 50 amp transfer switch so I can run the gen-set if I need more power.
Help....really thought this was one of the best instructions for this switchover panel...but...what brand is it and where can I buy one? ..thank you....Kevin
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
An option for this homeowner would have been to purchase a dual fuel generator. This type of generator can run on gasoline or propane. Gasoline will go bad over time, even with fuel stabilizers. Propane on the other hand will never go bad, and will not gum up the carburetor of the generator. During a widespread outage, gasoline might be hard to find, especially if fuel stations have no power to run their gas pumps.
Mowcowbell petrol is over 50 million years old. gasoline never goes bad, you get water in the gas container do to condensation and moisture created by H in gas and O in air. Read a book, it will not hurt you
While using normal gas it will run at a higher kw, while using propane it will run at a lower kw. So depending on what your house/situation requires, dual fuel may not be the best way to go.
Think before you speak, there isn't a single drop of gasoline that's anywhere near 50 million years old and gas most definitely goes bad especially if it is blended with ethanol.
phillijp question, gasoline comes from? Petroleum. Propane also comes from petroleum. See they exist since they were captured in the bodies of prehistoric monsters and plants. Read a book, it will help. What makes gasoline go bad is condensation produces water and also H when mixed with O it makes? Water
Crude oil is millions of years old. Gasoline which is produced in a refinery from crude oil is not anywhere near as old as you assert. The process by which this occurs is called fractional distillation. Also gas is lighter than water, put them in a container, mix them for as long as you like and once you stop they will separate through a process known as phase separation. Condensation is the process of a gas turning back into a liquid. Condensation does not produce water nor does it produce hydrogen. Perhaps you should be the one reading books.
With 10 circuits on the transfer panel, and if you use all 10, hopefully they are fairly low amp draw circuits. Also, it wasn't explaned that the loads should be balanced between each of the 110v legs on the transfer switch. (Assuming that's how it was hooked up) 7500 watts is pretty good, but don't expect to be running any HVAC (A/C) air conditioner(s) . Should handle most of the stuff - but remember An electric Oven, Cooktop, Elec Water Heater, Microwave, Toasters, Hair dryers, space heaters and the like *_all_* draw a lot of amps.
Thank you for posting this video. Very informative. Pros and cons I see: Pros: 1. It's legal and safe Cons: 1. When running on normal power, there are 2 breakers involved for each circuit with the exception of non essential circuits not on transfer switch. A lot of additional wiring is required. Expensive if you're not a do-it yourselfer and need to hire an LEC. 2. You can't run a whole house on this setup. I would like to run my whole cottage on a generator. It's 9400W and should be able to power the whole cottage including hot water and stove. Keep in mind I will not have everything in the house running at max draw which may be in excess of the generator output. Question is can I just install a simple transfer switch between the meter base and main breaker? Thank you
You could just forget the entire transfer switch and instead go directly into your breaker box. You’d install a 30amp switch for the Gen, then in outage you’d kill your main amp breaker to outside and run whatever appliances you want granted you don’t run AC and washer/dryer at same time off your 30amp and the other stuff you want in your box.
@@Tao_Peace My generator has a 50 AMP receptacle. I need to find out if I can legally use a breaker in the main panel. I would of course have to install an interlock. Laws differ in different regions. I like this idea.
You should flip your transfer switch back to Utility(Normal everyday mode) before shutting down your generator. Shutting down your generator while your house is trying to pull electricity is very bad for the generator head and can permanently damage it.
Isn't it also bad for your generator to run out of gas while it is supplying power to the house? I stumbled onto that bit of info on the web. I then checked the manual and it did not make too big a deal of it.
@@miked6335 Yes, this is also bad. The same thing occurs when the generator runs out of fuel. Most owner manuals state to not let your generator run out of fuel while under load (UL). It's happened to me with my 8k Generac a few times, nothing has been destroyed yet. Doing it enough times or under enough load will definitely reduce the lifetime of your machine.
Not just the generator head. As the generator stops the voltage can drop, current can spike and electronics can fry. Not good. (A high $$ generator will drop the power cleanly, a cheap generator will not).
I scrolled through the comments looking for this exact statement! It is not mentioned in the video like it should be. Otherwise an excellent, easy to understand video!
@@darrenjones9180 Code is clear on this matter though: You must be 5 feet from all openings in the home - the NFPA doesn't give an exception for dryer vents. The reason for this is that a home can become negatively pressured - you turn on two bath vents, a vent hood or you have a water heater or furnace which draws its combustion air from inside the home and then vents it outside the home. In all of these cases, there will be a chance for ANY opening in the home to suddenly become an air inlet.
Great video. I have a question. After the power comes back on, does the transfer switch stop the flow of electricity from the generator before you can get outside to turn off the generator? I heard you say the switch lives in the off position, is that where it returns or do I need to turn the switches back to off after turning off the generator?
I was wondering the same thing. The term manual transfer switch makes it sound like you have to do it yourself. Auto transfer switch would be a better thing if it would turn that off for you. What happens if your generator is running and the power comes back on? Not only that, but how do you know your power is back on from the utility if you're using the lights and other circuits with the generator?
The individual switches on the transfer switches are between the breakers and the loads (appliances, outlets, lighting, etc). When the generator is connected and the switches are moved to the GEN position, each switch independently disconnects the only feed to it from the house breaker panel. It's basically 10 transfer switches in one cabinet. If the main power is on and the generator is on and connected, it's perfectly safe to have some of the circuits in the LINE position (main power) and some of the circuits in the GEN position (generator power). Each circuit is isolated by the way the toggle switches are between the breakers in the house panel and the breakers in the transfer switch. The center OFF position is the "break" position so that when moving a switch up and down there is always a disconnect so the power sources always remain isolated. Normally the switches are in the LINE position, if there is an outage then a generator is connected and the switches are moved to the GEN positions as needed by the person attending to the system. It is usually obvious to some extent when the main power returns, because everything not being fed by or connected to the generator will instantly turn back on. Generally there is something somewhere that will indicate to someone that the main power has returned.
Hello, if you have a renewable energy (solar panel) system and an inverter, everything depends on the type of the inverter. If it's a "grid-tie" inverter, which syncs with the utility power and supplies power to the entire system at the same time as the utility, it cannot be used during an outage because it has to detect a utility outage and shut itself down (or it would send power back down the utility line). Grid-tie systems usually don't utilize battery bank storage and will sometimes use microinverters built-into the solar panels. If your inverter is NOT a grid-tie and does use a battery bank, it would use either a small automatic switch, or it could use a manual transfer switch like this one. All depends on the type of inverter and how it's integrated or planned to be integrated into the electrical system. With a "NON" grid-tie, you can use it at any time by picking any of the circuits on this type of switch, moving them to GEN and running them off the inverter power at the SAME time the utility feeds everything else. This is perfectly safe and the only concern is that you don't monitor the battery power and the available power from the battery bank gets too low, the inverter will crash and any circuits fed by it will stop working until you realize this and flip the switches back to LINE, reset the inverter, and when there is enough energy once again in the batteries you can resume using it to power some (or all) of the circuits on the transfer switch.
Thank you! I replied to the other comment you posted, hopefully that provides the answers you were looking for. Feel free to call me at 800-634-6155 and press option 3 for support.
No you cannot, the "class" of the inverter is critical and determines if it's possible to utilize this switch with an inverter rather than a separate portable generator. It won't work ONLY if you have a grid-tie inverter, because the inverter won't work when the main power fails unless a very sophisticated automatic switch AND another inverter AND another automatic switch are all incorporated. It's required by law that a grid-tie inverter has an RSD feature, which is Rapid Shut Down. It must detect the utility power failing and shut itself down until it detects the return of the utility. It can do this in a variety of ways based on who made the inverter. However, any inverter EXCEPT a grid-tie inverter can potentially be used with this transfer switch. There are some unique attributes on some (non-grid-tie) inverters in regards to their internal neutral/ground relationship, which could cause issues especially if there is GFCI built into the inverters and their neutral is bonded to their grounded (metal/conductive) parts. Inverters comes in two main classes - non grid-tie and Grid-tie, and this makes ALL the difference. The class of the inverter is critical because the two types of inverters are very, very different, and if you have a grid-tie you cannot use it when the power fails without an extremely expensive setup of 2 automatic switches and a 2nd inverter that is not a grid-tie.
Hello everyone thank you for sharing this video this is exactly what I needed I live off grand and I'm using a inverter to invert my power and I think this way would be a great way to run my generator in through my load Center thank you for sharing great video
The problem with most of these UA-cam videos that talks about transfer switches is that they are not telling people that they need to “pair the type of transfer switch to the type of portable generator” they plan/want to used. The thing to know/remember is your house service panel is neutral to ground bonded (N-G bonded) which means that the neutral and the ground are connected and should not be N-G bonded AGAIN throughout your electrical system. With that is mind, you can get transfer switches that either transfer the neutral or doesn't. Also, with portable generators, you can get them either “Neutral Bonded to Frame" which means the portable generator's neutral is connected/bonded to the ground or “Floating Neutral” where the neutral and ground are not connected/ bonded. Most but not all portable generators are Neutral Bonded to Frame. So if you decide to get a transfer switch that doesn't transfer the neutral then you need to get a portable generator that is Floating Neutral so that your electrical system is not N-G bonded at two location/places. If you get a transfer switch that transfer the neutral then you need to get a portable generator that is Neutral Bonded to Frame so that your electrical system is N-G bonded when the transfer switch is switched on. Most portable generators are Neutral Bonded at the Frame to meet code when they are used as a stand alone (Separate Derive System). If you plan to use the portable generator just for backing up to your electrical system with a transfer switch then get a Floating Neutral portable generator with a transfer switch that DOESN’T transfer the neutral. But if you want to use the portable generator as a backup AND to use it outside your electrical system, get a Neutral Bonded to Frame portable generator with a transfer switch that transfer the neutral so you don’t get N-G bond at two locations/ places. Another issue not discussed is Grounding the portable generator. If you are using a Floating Neutral portable generator with a transfer switch that DOESN'T transfer neutral, you are not required to ground as your portable generator is using your electrical system's ground. If you are using a Neutral Bonded to Frame portable generator with a transfer switch that transfer neutral then it is a Separate Derived System and as such, the portable generator needs to be grounded. Read this link. www.imsasafety.org/journal/ma03/ma5.htm .
@@denisrhodes54 That;s why real electricians use term like 'grounded' and 'grounding' conductors. Helps eliminate any confusion. Additionally, in this situation, the service panel is the one outside where the main breaker is located and where your grounded conductor would attach.Four wires would run from here into the house to the panel where they were working which is technically a sub-panel so the 'grounded and grounding' conductors are isolated.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit. Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install. I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
@@ChrisBurnsATL That's sad. But there may be hope. The Generlink salespeople are not always that current on the various utilities' policies. In fact the Generlink rep I had was a bit ditzy! Delayed my order about 2 weeks due to her confusion. But it all came out in the end. Before contacting Generlink, I first emailed the datasheet info and request directly to our utilities director at the city. The city provides electric to our area. A week later I had his letter of approval! He did say that I had to contact his office to have it installed as the customer service reps don't know about the device. I emailed his approval letter to the Generlink rep. About 5 weeks later I had the unit. Seems they build them after they are ordered. Contacted the utility director's office. They sent out an electrician and an assistant. The guys had never seen one before, but had it installed in a few minutes. They thought it was a really ingenious device. In my request to the director, I did present the facts of safety, convenience, cost & practicality. I'm thinking he agreed!
As someone who has done this, there is a lot more to it than they show, they gloss over getting the wires in to the box, the drilling of the hole thru the house, especially if you have concrete block construction, and the fact that some time the breakers you want to switch, the wires supplied won't reach. You can't always mount this box right beside your panel and then you find the supplied wires are too short to get to the circuits you want. These videos always seem slick, but there are many more situations that arise that aren't covered here.
How do you know when the city power is restored? Does it foul things up if you are on a generator when the power is restored? so you are getting both sources.
Main breaker should be switched off, then once you know power is on (neighbors, etc) shut gen off, transfer switch breakers to line, THEN main breaker on
That's incorrect. With this type of Transfer Switch, you never have to touch your control panel. Everything is being switched between Grid, Off or Line for those circuits in the Transfer Switch. To answer the question, the circuits not connected to the Transfer Switch will let you know when Grid power has been restored when things turn back on.
This is a great video, I do electrical work myself, but haven’t had the opportunity to install a transfer switch, thank you. I also noticed that you use Klein tools, that’s what good electrician use.
There isn't a set distance due to varying resistances and sizes of generators and loads, but 100 feet is generally a good distance to use as a baseline for 10 gauge wire.
Hello, Was your installation done in Canada? If not, do you know if the Canadian code allows the connections you used for the installation of the generator electrical box?
The manual transfer switch IS THE MOST IMPORTANT feature of your portable generator connection. The other thing to remember is to understand that you'll need to be home to activate it. The standby generator is a much better solution.
electricalron Agree. We own a standby generator, which not only exercises itself for twenty minutes weekly, keeps our basement sumps (and a lot of other things) going if we're not home through an automatic transfer switch, and has twice the power generation of a portable unit. It costs more, but it's worth it (and we get some of the value back if we resell the home; buyers love this stuff built in).
electricalron you have to realize some people don't have access to natural gas hookup and installing a tank in the backyard is not feasible. Their are pros and cons to both it's just a matter of what works for your situation.
Ampacity Electric We paid $4500 for our Generac automatic system, not $12,000 (5 years ago). Installation not included in that price, but then again it's not in your quote on the portable unit, either. 😊. I bet we'll get half of that back in the home resale. Again, it basically powers our entire house, garage doors and everything (unlike the homeowner in this video that had to select ten devices). Frankly, I know three others who own portable units like in this video, and they all suffer with them not working in emergencies. It's not like the electrician in this video makes it sound when he says "just put it in your garage". Engines need to be run routinely, even treated gasoline goes bad, spark plugs and carburetors get corroded and clogged, and few owners routinely maintain their portable generators, let alone fumble around in the dark starting them cold. Just another view of factors to consider as one makes their own decision. Everyone has their own needs. Many make do with just a Honda i2000 small jobber.
Well, it is true that the reason for this setup is because the area in question is prone to disruption from earthquakes... However, there are rugged, with vibration isolators, solutions that could still work... Just maybe not in the home owner's budget range... I'd personally pay the extra expense and go with a hybrid solution with battery bank, inverter, and the generator... Reminds me of a story I read once back when we had that big North East regional blackout back in 2003... A engineer had a hybrid car and hooked it up to power his home during the blackout... Basically powering the house off the batteries and setting up the engine to start and recharge the batteries when they got low and then shut off until the batteries got low again... On one tank of gas he kept everything running all week... A good generator can adjust its power output and fuel consumption but it's hard to beat a hybrid system for efficiency and I think that makes it worth the extra costs... While still being cheaper than going with solar, etc. and even if the generator needs to be stored away when not in use, the UPS means I'd have plenty of time to set it up and short outages wouldn't need the generator at all...
Thank You, my local store was not sure which 10-3 non-metallic wiring you spoke of, could you please give more info, thanks, also would a 10-3 romex work? is there a benifit of straned over sold wire? ThankYOu
Doesn't gas(oline) have limited storage life today, specially if it has ethanol in it? It might be a good idea to mention something about replacing it and/or adding some stabilizer?
Fuel stabilizer is a definite must. And make sure to get the right kind for ethanol blended gas. Try to buy non-ethanol gas, but I know many areas don't have that option at all. Don't let the tank run dry as ethanol residue will crystalize, messing up the carbs.
Another option for this installation would have been to go with a dual fuel generator. They cost a bit more, but give you the option of running the generator on either gasoline or propane. I would go with propane, as it doesn't go bad over time and is easy to store. Propane burns cleaner, less fouling of spark plugs, and the engine oil will stay cleaner for a longer period of time.
I would like to add the importance of removing the coiled up feed wire from the water hose reel BEFORE running. What you created was essentially a transformer with a Farris core.
I wonder, a) does the transfer switch also switch the neutral (doesn't appear so) or b) the generator has a floating neutral. If the generator has a neutral/ground bond then doesn't the neutral have to be switched at the panel as well
This type of transfer switch does not switch the neutral, the generator would work if it was floating neutral or bonded neutral as long as no GFCI is present on the 120/240 volt locking receptacle, in this case there is no GFCI so it will function. However, ideally the neutral should be floating since the main electrical panel is bonded, and most generators can be changed from bonded neutral to floating neutral.
I prefer the idea of the interlock kit over a transfer switch. They're easy to install, create less spaghetti wires in the panel, and they let you power any circuit in your home.
They probably don’t want to show those on a show like this for liability reasons. If the interlock is installed wrong, it’ll send power down the line even when a lineman thinks it’s off.
So, this seems to be a big debate on the internet. We have a Transfer Switch, which is safer and works for what we would need in a power outage. Here are some Pros and Cons of each option. Interlock Switch Pros: 1) Cost less. (Switch ($70), watts meter ($90) and inlet box ($60) Total $220) 2) Can choose any circuits to power on/off. 3) NEC compliant and UL listed. 4) DIY project. Cons: 1) Main breaker has to be off. 2) All individual breakers need to be turned off before switching over to generator power. 3) Potential to back feed the main power lines. 4) Harder to balance both legs of generator. 5) Have to modify main control panel box. 6) Have to install a double poll 30 or 50 AMP breaker. 7) Might have to pay an electrician to install. Transfer Switch Pros: 1) Cost more, but can buy a kit which includes everything you need to install. (Transfer switch prewired, conduit, power intel box and power cord $300-$440) 2) Easier to manage power load. 3) Easier to balance leg loads. 4) Some switches come with a standard circuit breaker for each circuit. 5) Each circuit is isolated from utility or generator power. 6) Impossible to back feed either utility or generator power. 7) When power is restored, you'll know it by whatever circuits not included in the transfer switch. 8) No need to switch off/on any breakers in the main control panel when switching between "Gen" and "Utility" power. 9) NEC compliant and UL listed. 10) Can switch to generator power, while utility power is still powering your house. 11) Can have 10 individual circuits or 5 double poll circuits. (Only one can be a 30amp double poll) 12) Idiot proof. 13) DIY project, but more involved. 14) Comes with a watts meter. Cons: 1) Can be costly 2) Limited to the same 10 circuits you choose. 3) Might have to pay an electrician to install.
It is impossible to backfeed the grid with an interlock if they are installed properly. In fact, their exact purpose is to prevent backfeeding of the grid.
I install generator interlock devices all of the time. They are sold on line or at Home improvement stores. Typically they prevent a 2-pole 30A backfed (gen) breaker from being turned on if the main breaker is not turned off first, and vice versa. They will allow you to use any breaker in the panel that you want, but you have to use your head, and not try to do more than the generator will handle. I typically will take "white out" and mark the breakers that should be turned off, like the water heater, dryer, Electric furnace, Air conditioner. I tell; people they can probably use one burner of their stove (not the oven) well some lights. TV, Microwave, refrigerator, freezer, without a problem. If they wany Air conditioning, it will take a much larger Generator than what we are talking about here. Whole house air conditioners take a great deal of electric just to start. About 6X running amps. This is a much better, easier, and cheaper way to do this. Hank Kline Master Electrician.
Justin W. Not necessarily at all. With a small generator, you’re just more limited on what breakers you can safely leave on when in “generator mode.” This is a much easier, cheaper, and more flexible solution than the fancy 10-breaker box shown in the video.
Steve Martin understood. Thank you for the reply! I’m by no means an electrician, but find it important to understand why one would prefer one option compared to the other.
Justin W. ...Great. I haven’t installed a generator interlock device yet, but I’ve researched it a fair bit and it’s “on the list.” They’re UL approved and seem like the next best thing to having a $8000+ automatic whole house generator. There are some good UA-cam videos out there.
The exceedingly long power cord is that going to be a problem with a drop in power? I was told that more than 25’ is not recommended unless a higher gauge cord is used.
Only time I see those useful is when you have an obsolete panel that doesn't give you interlock option. Do a service upgrade to a Cutler hammer. CH series panel with the interlock Cover. You have way more options on what you can select for circuits and not be so limited.
Can I just turn off main breaker off when outage occurs and then turn on a 30 amp breaker connected to the inlet? What about bonding screw? Is now the breaker box considered subpanel? Do we separate grounds and neutrals? This video lacks a lot…
Well when someone points in a specific direction and begins with "Show me", you tend to head in that direction. He probably thought he was going to ask about something under the deck.
People are wondering why he doesn't just have a nice automatic standby diesel or natural gas generator installed. That's a good question. Here's mine: Have you ever had to depend on true professional prime generators? Because I work at a radio network and between our studios and transmitter sites we have 10 beefy primary professional grade 60-120 KW generators with automatic transfer switches and all the bells and whistles. And let me tell you something: They are a constant pain. An absolute constant pain. We have to keep after them every month, changing belts and filters, batteries, and so forth. Whenever there's an extended power outage, one or two of them will always fail. Sometimes they won't start. Sometimes they burn a winding. Or the transfer switch freezes. Or the $500 deep cycle battery quits years ahead of time. These are professional generators, brands like CAT and Cummins, meant for continuous off grid use, very well sized for their loads (not exceeding 50%). Not your wimpy Generac home standby system. Based on more than a decade of experience with these generators, plus all the horror stories from peers one accumulates, I'd never shell out a load of money for an automatic home system. Better to have a nice setup like this in place so I can connect a generator of my own at any time. It costs a lot less to drop into Costco and buy a $700 portable generator and toss it when it breaks, than it is to get a $10,000 home system installed that fails me when there's no technician to come out and look at it. You can say that it "should" not be this way, but let me ask you something: If a radio network with over a million dollar a year budget on maintenance with a licensed diesel mechanic, a licensed electrician, and engineers ON STAFF has issues with true professional diesel generators, what are your chances with a cheap Home Depot one installed by some subcontractor?
To Jose Quiñones - You make good points, as an industrial/commercial electrician who has installed generators up to 13kv, if something can go wrong it will even though it should not. Million dollar maintenance contract! For the homeowner, most outages are not long and if you have city water and natural/propane gas heating, you don't need much generation. With a well pump, having water makes all the difference in the world so money spent is worth it, especially with kids. The generac auto transfer schemes definitely make sense for many people's combination of circumstances though. A very good, simple scheme is if the local power utility allows the transfer switch to be part of the meter socket and a simple cord run between the generator and the metersocket. Almost child proof!
Jose, very good argument against a whole home generator. I priced out a whole home Generac 22kw system for my home, and the estimate was over $9000 installed. For less than $2000, I bought a 10 circuit manual transfer switch, paid for a professional to install it, and bought a 7.5kw dual fuel Champion generator ($799.99). With this setup, I can run all my lights, TV, window A/C unit, microwave, garage door opener, etc. Pros? I can use gasoline or propane. Cons? I can't run 220v appliances like an oven, central A/C, or a clothes dryer. I do have to deal with the minor inconvenience of pulling the generator out of the garage and connect the 30amp cord to the panel outside. For that 5 minutes of work each time the power goes out, I saved $7000.
As the senior tech at a public safety radio shop. I chose a big 400 gallon propane keep full serviced tank(half or better) brought liquid propane into the generator building to the gasifier that uses engine coolant. the engine has block heater. nice 454 chevy v8 on propane gave reliable back up power for the 20 years I worked there. All I did was have the generator service company out once a year to do check over and maintenance. much better than diesel those gave lots more trouble. its back up so the extra cost of propane is not a big deal at all. the propane service company let us use their tank as long as we got the fuel from them so that was a good deal. now that I am retired I keep a 2000 watt portable gas generator in my garage with the gas empty. If I need to use it like to run the furnace or refrigerator. I take it outside and put some fresh gas in it. I am not going to tell how I hook it up. but its easy and easy to put back to normal when power is restored. One thing to remember, besides how not to hurt yourself. be sure that what ever you rig up does not feed power back into the electrical grid and kill some power company guy trying to make repairs.
@Mowcowbell, nice. I just purchased a 7500W generator and am looking into adding a manual transfer switch to my home. If you don't mind me asking, how much did the 10-circuit switch and installation cost?
6 років тому+4
LOL .... Our Generac 22kW system has been installed a little over 10 years and works perfectly every time the power goes out including one time for two weeks! I'm betting your cheap-ass radio station didn't do routine maintenance. Pretty normal for a typical radio station, hire some out-of-work reprobate handyman with no electrician's license and no manufacturer's training and expect him to maintain all that equipment between swigs from his flask. No wonder all you old outdated equipment gave you so much trouble!! LOL
I prefer the whole house option, where it's just one double-pole breaker in the existing panel. That way, you don't have to choose what circuits you want to prioritize. Of course you can't necessarily run everything you want at once, but I think we're smart enough to handle that. With this approach, you can live life as normal, without having to work around dead circuits.
Ampacity Electric why does a flat piece of sheet metal cost so much? Is it the certification behind it? An interlock is my preferred option I just don't see the cost in the product.
I have the Interlock switch plate installed in my panel and love it. Like others said, you don't have to decide ahead of time what you might need to power in an emergency. You also don't have to rewire all your breakers to the pigtails. It's also a LOT less expensive than a transfer switch. I know that I cannot power everything at once like the electric hot water heater and central air at the same time. I have those breakers marked with an orange dot so in an emergency I know which breakers to leave off initially. Also important is a Reliance Controls PowerBACK alarm which alerts you when main electricity is restored. We've had numerous outages during the day with clear blue skies and you cannot watch for neighbors lights during the day. :-)
A service entrance interlock (or an interlock on a critical load panel) easily provides the most capability in any manual transfer system. However, a lot of people will not want to manage a panel with 30 or 40 circuit breakers, let alone if there are also sub panels (we are not all smart enough to do this, nor willing). The breakers are being used as switches in this scenario, and not everyone in a common household will want to learn all about the 30-40 breakers, know to turn them all off before using the gen, what they feed, and their power usages in order to avoid overloading the gen. Every breaker should be turned off before connecting the generator and then turning breakers on one by one is how to manage the system and avoid connecting the generator under load. Additionally, some interlocks are not listed by a testing lab (aftermarket kits made by the panel company with the part # listed on the cabinet label). Most inspectors will turn down unlisted interlocks because they are not proven and can be defeated with the dead front off in many cases. The installation labor in makes up for the cost of the pieces of metal (mechanism), and not every panel can be modified with an interlock, mainly only newer panels. It's a very economical concept and has been around for a long time but it's most certainly not for everyone, most people prefer ease of use over full control during emergency conditions. Also, the points some are trying to emphasize of not having to decide what you might need to power in an emergency - sure you don't have to necessarily decide on what circuits you will power with certainty ahead of time, but you still have to decide during operation of the system and that will require being very familiar with what all of the household breakers power and their current draws. During operation, prioritizing circuits by turning breakers OFF and then back ON is exactly what everyone has to do with an interlocked panel. Reliance offers 500+ panels with interlocks but due to the (usually) extra costs for installing them, the frequently required inspections and permits on panel board modifications or service entrance installations, the average home owner can benefit greatly from something that is easy to use like the load side switch with 6 or 10 critical breakers.
gantmj yes upon are right. Last Big hurricane Florida had we tied to the dryer Plug. I was a little bit concerned but a electrician friend said it will work and. Be safe. We ran the central AC and lights only. Everything else we turned off the Breaker. Keep an eye on the Maine panel.
gantmj they make a generac meter it plugs right in to meter from generator and you have no extra fuse box way more convenient and you can switch whatever you want on at any given time.
@@macaronitire4152 I paid around $70.00 at Lowes. But then I thought, do I want it that far away? No, I don't. The whole idea is convenience. Plus it's just easier to steal.
Question about the generator. If it has a bonded neutral, I have to remove it so that we don't have current on the ground wire when plugged into the house because the neutral is bonded in the panel. Correct?
Would have been a lot cheaper and faster to install an interlock instead of a transfer switch. Not to mention you could then choose any circuit you want to run instead of only a select few.
You’ll back feed the service feed. If line men have to work on the service they’ll get knocked because of that back feed. You need to isolate the power your sending from the generator. Your poor mans way is good if you don’t happen to have a inlet at the time either way they sell this with a 10ft cord, the ats, and the inlet for 300 bucks at home depot.
@@InphazeC8 Do your research. An interlock only allows power into the panel from one source isolating the other source line. More options mean more info and you choose what is best for your needs and budget.
While also a valid method, that puts a bit more responsibility on the homeowner to be mindful of what circuits they are powering with the generator. For those who are less attentive, the transfer switch is a better method.
You would need to be very careful with how you "load" those 10 circuits on that 7KW genset. Each of those 10 circuits would only be able to carry a "average" 6 amp load. That cord/receptacle would supply 30 amps on each phase (red/black). The other thing most people don't often realize is that keeping the genset fueled for a long outage can become a problem with fuel availability especially after a major catastrophic event. Propane might be a good source. It "stores" for long periods, pretty safe in its containers, multiple containers could be stored. It was always "illegal" (National Electric Code) to splice inside a panel. Has that rule gone away??
Hello, yes it's imperative to learn a little bit about power usages of appliances when operating them with a generator. Splices have not always been illegal, there have been exceptions for splices for a very long time. As long as the fill factor of the area inside the panel isn't too high, and the splices are purposeful rather than being used as a feed-through such as a junction box, they are acceptable.
So if I understand correctly, the neutral wire from the generator is wired to the panel. The same setup would be true if an interlock was used. Therefore is doesn’t matter that the neutral circuit is not disconnected at the main breaker. So an interlock is just as good provided you have a dedicated backfeed breaker and the main is open? What’s the issue?
Thanks for the comment. There are two main concepts for residential manual switching. An interlock, and a load side transfer switch used in this video. They both have their places, and each have their own advantages and disadvantages. The best approach is to research both types of setups to figure out what works best for your particular application. In most situations, the generator neutral is common with the utility neutral, which among a few other attributes being present, is defined as a non-separately derived system which is the most common back up system for residential in North America.
Noob Here. Question. Soo the gen is ON and the power from the lines go ON. Is it automatically separated (the power). The power from generator and power from the line? I thought it would have to be separated as so the power wont transfer through the power lines. May be i missed something on the discription on the panel. I thought it had to be separated so as not to cause injury to the guy trying to put the lines back up?
GoldenShaolinNutz -- The Transfer switch has a set of switches above Each Circuit Breaker, that separates the power from the Utility, and feeds the power to the Circuit Breaker, or feeds the transfer switch power from the Utility.. The man will have to go manually switch the transfer switch breakers over to Generator, when he needs to use it..
I have a permanently installed 8 kW genset, propane fuel from 2 100 gal cylinders, and an automatic transfer switch. It's saved the day a number of times since utilities were "deregulated". If you're going with a portable genset there are three things I'd recommend: (1) Document every circuit breaker at your service entrance. Make sure you have a list of every load that every circuit breaker serves. With a 200 A service, you can't power up every circuit with a 7 or 8 kW generator. You can buy a kit to help you do that at Lowe's, Home Depot, or Harbor Freight for $20-25 (or so). (2) Get a "dual fuel" generator - gas or propane, for example. Long term storage of a 20 or 30 # propane tank is much safer than long term storage of 5, 10, or 15 gallons of gasoline in a can in your garage or pole barn. (3) If you go with gas, use ONLY non-ethanol (and do this religiously) - like in your lawn mower or boat.
Great advice. All small engines.. no ethanol. Only way it would be ok is if you are running your generator non stop. You can not store Ethanol blended fuel long term....unless you like cleaning fuel systems.
I've been using regular pump gas in all the equipment I've accumulated since I bought my house 13 years ago. It keeps for up to two years if you stabilize it properly. I'm up to about 20 pieces of equipment and they all still have the original carbs, etc. Haven't had a single fuel issue in anything. The real key is to always shut off the fuel and run the carburetor dry, if you do the equipment will be fine. Buying ethanol-free is expensive, difficult and totally unnecessary.
@@nodak81 You are right on point!!!
@@nodak81same, I put stabilizer in my ethanol gas in the equipment throughout the winter with 0 issues
@@hylomaneI personally have used gas 2 years old that was in my generator
As a licensed electrician I never did a transfer switch your video makes it so easy anyone can install one of these
Rob,a lockout for a back fed breaker is more simple and much less expensive.
@@jerrydemas2020 But if your main cutoff is outside near the meter, you can't do a lockout.
@@ChrisBurnsATL Doug, then I think your screwed!
Another nice thing about these manual transfer switches is that you leave one circuit not desired on genset power to alert you when line power is back with a radio and/or light plugged in. I keep my main HVAC breaker off until I know power from the grid has stabilized anyway and this is the way to go for alerting you safely.
Very smart thank you
I can see my neighbors street light they just had to put up...😔🙄😔
My god - whoever installed that OCD copper plumbing did a beautiful job
Brotha I was sayin the same thing beautiful work 😎🤟
The copper work in my 60 year old US Steel home is a total work of art! It's nice to see the pride that some installers exhibit for copper instalation.
I liked how they both agreed that the driveway was not the ideal location for the generator, but they both walked off camera at 2:00 and left it in the driveway.
Elvis inNY - Dude, it's a video filmed by This Old House....It is not a movie... I'm pretty sure they either had people in and around this entire set up and they could have easily moved the generator into the garage if they felt they needed to..
From what I could see in that wide shot out front, these people do not live in the Hood, so it's pretty safe there even if just for a while..
@@frandanco6289 r/wooosh
@@frandanco6289 the Hood?
@@frandanco6289 I think Elvis was more referring to the point that they didn't take the generator with them to the backyard even though they both agreed to take it there. Theft was not the point of his comment.
Interesting episode. We lived for a week and a half after a bad storm on a 4500 watt gen. Had lights, refrigerator and ran our gas fired furnace. When we cooked on an electric skillet I made sure the furnace wasn't going to kick on. All done with extension cords. I need to look into a manual transfer.
Kevin N y
Kevin N thanks, that helped out alot because im currently looking to purchase one living WA. Dont need to much to get use through a bad storm or what not. Was looking to get a 7000 watt, but sounds like 4500 does the job.
Kevin N look into the generac meter you plug it right into the meter when you have it plugged in it automatically has a safety inside for when power goes back on it's just way easier and no extra fuse boxes
A cheaper option would be an interlock kit. This option also allows you to choose any circuit you want. The transfer switch limits you to 8 or 10 circuits...depending on the transfer switch you purchase. Search UA-cam for videos about interlock kits.
I think what you show in the video is a really good setup and probably the best way to go for most people. For those thinking of installing a whole house 20kW backup system, I would like to offer an alternative idea to consider. For the same/similar price, you could install a 4kW solar power system with an 8kW generator and battery backup. That way, instead of just sitting there waiting for an emergency, your "solar backup" system is helping to power your home all the time saving you money. When you run a 20kW backup generator, you end up wasting most of that power most of the time and it burns a lot of fuel. With a battery backup, you run the 8kW system, burn less fuel and use all the power to charge the batteries for about 2 hours and then shut if off for about 24 hrs while you run off the battery. Anyway, that's how I do it and it works great!
Too expensive. Install cheaper and safe "interlock switch" in panel and your done.
Just curious how much material cost? And how much installation cost? Or did you do that yourself? How many square feet solar panel going to cover? On roof or separate individual structure? I
The solar backup isn't much help in a heavy snowstorm.
@@Jen848the solar backup is just for regular use. In the event of a power outage you would use The generator for a few hours and charge your batteries, then turn it off and use your batteries until they need to be charged again.
Great video. Loved the power flow animation.
Eye Heart Sushi It’s good for basic explanation but not accurate, since electricity does not just flow one way, but needs a circuit
Agreed
@@mintheman7 Bruh it's a "power flow" animation, not a current flow animation. Power does flow one way.
Thank you for showing folks how to safely use a generator. Linemen appreciate when you use a transfer switch, those switches save lives while they are out restoring power.
I thought a auto transfer switch was mandatory everywhere in the US?
Richard Neal not really. You can use the panel kit that prevents main on with genset breaker on
Do people sometimes wire their systems so that they can feed mains power with the generator.
Some people unplug their dryer or electric range and backfeed the house through the plug. It's very unsafe since doing that can send power back through the mains and exposes high voltage on the male prongs of a power cord.
Thanks for the info. Question - why not just put a transfer box in the main line ahead of the breaker box? Run the generator power into the transfer box that runs into the main line breaker box. Then turn the house breakers off or on depending on what circuits you want to use? That way you have access to all the circuits, albeit you wont be able to use all at once.
My thoughts exactly
For anyone wondering that is an interlock not a transfer switch.
Recently moved to a small farm out in the sticks. Lots of forests and trees around leads to quite a few outages in our area. Called an electrician and they were all 2-3 months out from being able to do this work, so my wife and I bought the same transfer switch and wired it in ourselves. I wouldnt recommend unless you know what youre doing but even for people with moderate knowledge of home electrical it was pretty easy to install ourselves. Saved us about $500 on a visit too.
great to hear. i can diy plumbing and other diy projects but always afraid of electricity projects. just got hit with a bad outage with this Frida storm so will need something like this.
Only $500? That's pretty cheap! I got quotes that ranged from $1300 to $1800...just for labor...no parts or materials included!
@@KhmerH20 Same here. I can do small electrical stuff like outlets, switches, and running wire, but anything with the panel I'm not touching.
@@mae2759As long as your main power switch in your panel is switched to off position, you can wire the transfer switch in yourself. It's a very simple hookup. Lots of videos online to assist you. I have done several for friends. It's nice to know if the power goes out you can power up appliances in your home and live comfortably for a period without power from the utility company.
@@edadanyou must live up north or in Cali where everything is twice as expensive 😂😂
a must for any homeowner....skip the vacation one year or whatever to have the extra $$ to get one installed....worth every penny!!
Certainly a better explanation for we the curious. I just have to understand how it works. I probably won’t be the one doing the work but at least I’m certain at how the power flow continues. Great graphics to detail what you were actually doing. Concise and directly to the point always staying on task.
Love how detailed the electrican was. To bad I don't have someone like him as a boss.
This is the best instructional video I have watch to date, very thorough and informative!
Agreed!!!!
Nice job!! Anyone remember Y2K?
I did this in my home in 1999 in preparation of THE GREAT POWER OUTAGE expected in Y2K. I don't regret doing it as it has come in handy a half dozen times since then.
My total expense on that project was less than $1200.
What was the electricians expense
@@fordhamdonnington2738 I should have specified, no that was the cost of the Generator, Transfer kit, and the 50' 10gauge 4 wire cord and end adapters. Electrician cost would have been extra but should be able to get the job done in 3 to 4 hours.
So I'm guessing the electrician cost
Would be around $500.00.
I was in Sault Saint Maire Canada Skiing hoping to get stuck there for weeks...
5:14 best animation I've seen. Thank you!
I'm embarrassed to admit this, but sometimes when someone is just jabbering out instructions, I may get a little distracted - - so no matter how corny in appearance, if they have a simple animation like that - - it really brings the project (& end-product) into focus for me. So yes, I do appreciate their animation as well. Thank YOU for adding that time-stamp there!
I disagree. It's really basic.
Walt Disney tops
@@samsngdevice5103 You wanted anime?
It doesn't include neutral and ground wiring, not exactly a good diagram.
@@LEO1WOLF I think they used it in "Money For Nothing" video.
This is great! Best explanation (with animated diagraming) of how a typical transfer switch works. Just what I was looking for. Thanks. 👍
Every new house should have a mandatory transfer switch!
You need a license electrician to install a transfer switch
Only in that dump California.
These things are at least 5 years outdated already. They make manual brackets now that only allow your generator or utility power that feed your whole panel and any sub panels.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 Hi, do you have a link to a video or site with this info. Thanks
@@wx4sno maybe if that panel has such hard to find breakers it would be worth it to switch to a panel you can easily feed entirely by a generator and transfer bracket.
This is an excellent step-by-step video presentation of the process from A to Z. Thank you!
Vin Diesel is a pretty good electrician.
Wesley Young lol
Wesley Young it's his younger brother who hasn't hit puberty yet
Ryan
O
Wesley Young
Dude. It's Johnny Sins!
Now I'm gonna show you how to put a blower on the generator so you can power the whole neighborhood!
When commercial line power is restored, it is better to FIRST flip all the transfer switches to LINE before shutting down the generator. If you shut down the generator while powering your household circuits, the power fluctuations may damage sensitive electronics or your AC.
Or flipping off the breaker on the generator itself before shutting it down. That’s what it is there for. Just like how they didn’t turn it on until the generator was on.
@@joeythefoxxo Not a good idea if you have TVs or really sensitive electronics on line. An abrupt shut down of the breaker may still allow/cause a large voltage fluctuation. better to shut off via the transfer switch for the sensitive circuit.
Truthfully, you should switch each circuit to GEN or Line, one at a time, allowing a few seconds before moving the switch. This will allow the generator to stabilize and minimize power fluctuations.
@@Pk3_Garagethanks for the tip! It makes sense as you'd want to wait until the starting watts of the appliances dropped to operating wattage
Great video, thanks for suggesting to build our own 4 prong extension cord, should be much cheaper than the ready to use cords that ive seen
What size wire?
Greetings from Reno, Nevada.
This one video was worth the subscription.
I like how he introduced him to the utility room 😂😂😂😂
Thank You.
One question/concern, during outages, how is it safe to have Gen on, and then when power grid is restored, they’re both feeding the same breaker to same outlets lights/appliances?
Aren’t I suppose to turn the other 10 Breakers in the main panel “Off”?…
And when power grid restores, then turn Gen Off, and the 10 chosen breakers at the Main Panel back to the “On” position??
I’m a bit confused.
Could you please clarify this concern?
Thank You, kindly, in advance.
Sincerely 🙏🏼
Good question. The Transfer Switch will only allow power, from either GEN or Line power to those circuits. (Never both at the same time) With this type of Transfer Switch, you will never need to touch anything in the Main Control Panel.
@@Pk3_Garage I’m understanding it. Thank you!!
You mentioned that two wires are needed for 240 volts but in order to achieve that, you need two different 120 lines. How do you determine this using your transfer box. You omitted some clarity on this point. THANKS
This video segment is more of an informational and educational video than an instructional video. Step by step instructional videos are available on the UA-cam channel for Reliance Controls, and the connection of a 240v circuit is addressed. The bus bar is laid out so that every adjacent switch/breaker is on a different phase of the generator, so any two adjacent switches can be wired to a 240v circuit of the appropriate amp rating.
Doesn't matter, there's 2
The transfer switch splits them internally for the 120 v circuits; half on one and half on the other.
I'm Spending this Video to my Friends in the Philippines That Need to Have this System!
Love this video, I have a ton of great generator videos myself and this is very helpful.
I just isolated the circuits in a sub panel with a feed from the inv/charger. This line also has a 50 amp transfer switch so I can run the gen-set if I need more power.
Do a vid bud Plz send it to me
Was that generator a floating or bonded neutral? If bonded, what steps were taken to ensure the neutral wasn’t bonded twice?
Usually a generator will have a noticeable ground lug next to the outlets if it requires another ground.
Nicely done presentation.
Choke all the way open to start? It usually closes to start and open again once warmed up.
Man, talk about visual learning, nice video of how the power is going from the transfer switch.
This Old House And Staff Are Always AWESOME
That plumbing layout tho 🤩
Help....really thought this was one of the best instructions for this switchover panel...but...what brand is it and where can I buy one?
..thank you....Kevin
Just completed the break-in period and so far the unit is operating perfectly ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOTeIs0vv4_9B5hsmnLsk9r930uDQLu_Y . I was amazed by just how quiet this little guy is. I kept having to walk down the driveway to the generator to make sure it was still running. In fact, the most annoying noise coming from the set-up is a high-pitched chirping coming from the pressure regulator on the propane line. I suppose it's possible my other propane-powered generator's pressure regulator is making the same noise, but the generator itself is so loud I've never noticed it. Build quality so far is excellent. My only nit is the service panel is a little tricky to remove. I feel like I might break off one of the plastic tabs when bending it back. I probably just need to work out the technique, so will not hold it against Champion.Next week I intend to fully load the unit to charge a large battery pack and will update this review if there's any problem (3000W continuous load vs a rated 3100W capacity while using propane). Absent any trouble there, I'm 100% pleased with this purchase.
Best example of these types of videos I've seen.
This was an outstanding video and tutorial, very concise. I wish other youtubers copied the format
What are the benefits to using this over an interlock kit? Seems like a lotttt more work.
I agree. Just install a interlock kit with generator breaker and selectively turn on needed circuits.
An option for this homeowner would have been to purchase a dual fuel generator. This type of generator can run on gasoline or propane. Gasoline will go bad over time, even with fuel stabilizers. Propane on the other hand will never go bad, and will not gum up the carburetor of the generator. During a widespread outage, gasoline might be hard to find, especially if fuel stations have no power to run their gas pumps.
Mowcowbell petrol is over 50 million years old. gasoline never goes bad, you get water in the gas container do to condensation and moisture created by H in gas and O in air. Read a book, it will not hurt you
While using normal gas it will run at a higher kw, while using propane it will run at a lower kw. So depending on what your house/situation requires, dual fuel may not be the best way to go.
Think before you speak, there isn't a single drop of gasoline that's anywhere near 50 million years old and gas most definitely goes bad especially if it is blended with ethanol.
phillijp question, gasoline comes from?
Petroleum.
Propane also comes from petroleum.
See they exist since they were captured in the bodies of prehistoric monsters and plants.
Read a book, it will help.
What makes gasoline go bad is condensation produces water and also H when mixed with O it makes? Water
Crude oil is millions of years old. Gasoline which is produced in a refinery from crude oil is not anywhere near as old as you assert. The process by which this occurs is called fractional distillation. Also gas is lighter than water, put them in a container, mix them for as long as you like and once you stop they will separate through a process known as phase separation. Condensation is the process of a gas turning back into a liquid. Condensation does not produce water nor does it produce hydrogen. Perhaps you should be the one reading books.
nice video and easy to understand. thank you so much for it . ozeas lannes from new york city :)
With 10 circuits on the transfer panel, and if you use all 10, hopefully they are fairly low amp draw circuits. Also, it wasn't explaned that the loads should be balanced between each of the 110v legs on the transfer switch. (Assuming that's how it was hooked up) 7500 watts is pretty good, but don't expect to be running any HVAC (A/C) air conditioner(s) . Should handle most of the stuff - but remember An electric Oven, Cooktop, Elec Water Heater, Microwave, Toasters, Hair dryers, space heaters and the like *_all_* draw a lot of amps.
Thank you for posting this video. Very informative.
Pros and cons I see:
Pros: 1. It's legal and safe
Cons:
1. When running on normal power, there are 2 breakers involved for each circuit with the exception of non essential circuits not on transfer switch. A lot of additional wiring is required. Expensive if you're not a do-it yourselfer and need to hire an LEC.
2. You can't run a whole house on this setup. I would like to run my whole cottage on a generator. It's 9400W and should be able to power the whole cottage including hot water and stove. Keep in mind I will not have everything in the house running at max draw which may be in excess of the generator output. Question is can I just install a simple transfer switch between the meter base and main breaker?
Thank you
You could just forget the entire transfer switch and instead go directly into your breaker box. You’d install a 30amp switch for the Gen, then in outage you’d kill your main amp breaker to outside and run whatever appliances you want granted you don’t run AC and washer/dryer at same time off your 30amp and the other stuff you want in your box.
@@Tao_Peace My generator has a 50 AMP receptacle. I need to find out if I can legally use a breaker in the main panel. I would of course have to install an interlock. Laws differ in different regions. I like this idea.
You should flip your transfer switch back to Utility(Normal everyday mode) before shutting down your generator. Shutting down your generator while your house is trying to pull electricity is very bad for the generator head and can permanently damage it.
Exactly
Isn't it also bad for your generator to run out of gas while it is supplying power to the house? I stumbled onto that bit of info on the web. I then checked the manual and it did not make too big a deal of it.
@@miked6335 Yes, this is also bad. The same thing occurs when the generator runs out of fuel. Most owner manuals state to not let your generator run out of fuel while under load (UL). It's happened to me with my 8k Generac a few times, nothing has been destroyed yet. Doing it enough times or under enough load will definitely reduce the lifetime of your machine.
Not just the generator head. As the generator stops the voltage can drop, current can spike and electronics can fry. Not good. (A high $$ generator will drop the power cleanly, a cheap generator will not).
I scrolled through the comments looking for this exact statement! It is not mentioned in the video like it should be. Otherwise an excellent, easy to understand video!
what a good instructor you are. you rerally set it astraight for me... thank you.
Are you allowed to use the panel as a junction box?
In US looks like you can, not in Canada yet they sell it. they don't have CSA stamp I'm about to install one and going have to mount JB by the panel
Long cable helps you put the genrator far away for noise, but thats a lot of voltage drop.
20$ says hes going to wheel it under the deck right next to the vents 😂
And he will build a "protective decorative box" around it
@john probst if they went back to holms on homes shows it will be........ Exactly the same because that dude is Overkill on everything
@@mikekristin7201 He has to pay for the boat.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@darrenjones9180 Code is clear on this matter though: You must be 5 feet from all openings in the home - the NFPA doesn't give an exception for dryer vents. The reason for this is that a home can become negatively pressured - you turn on two bath vents, a vent hood or you have a water heater or furnace which draws its combustion air from inside the home and then vents it outside the home. In all of these cases, there will be a chance for ANY opening in the home to suddenly become an air inlet.
Came here after Texas' artic storm blew down here. Great video. Would want to go extra step to tie in natural gas line to generator.
Great video. I have a question. After the power comes back on, does the transfer switch stop the flow of electricity from the generator before you can get outside to turn off the generator? I heard you say the switch lives in the off position, is that where it returns or do I need to turn the switches back to off after turning off the generator?
I was wondering the same thing. The term manual transfer switch makes it sound like you have to do it yourself. Auto transfer switch would be a better thing if it would turn that off for you. What happens if your generator is running and the power comes back on? Not only that, but how do you know your power is back on from the utility if you're using the lights and other circuits with the generator?
The individual switches on the transfer switches are between the breakers and the loads (appliances, outlets, lighting, etc). When the generator is connected and the switches are moved to the GEN position, each switch independently disconnects the only feed to it from the house breaker panel. It's basically 10 transfer switches in one cabinet.
If the main power is on and the generator is on and connected, it's perfectly safe to have some of the circuits in the LINE position (main power) and some of the circuits in the GEN position (generator power). Each circuit is isolated by the way the toggle switches are between the breakers in the house panel and the breakers in the transfer switch. The center OFF position is the "break" position so that when moving a switch up and down there is always a disconnect so the power sources always remain isolated.
Normally the switches are in the LINE position, if there is an outage then a generator is connected and the switches are moved to the GEN positions as needed by the person attending to the system. It is usually obvious to some extent when the main power returns, because everything not being fed by or connected to the generator will instantly turn back on. Generally there is something somewhere that will indicate to someone that the main power has returned.
Hello, if you have a renewable energy (solar panel) system and an inverter, everything depends on the type of the inverter. If it's a "grid-tie" inverter, which syncs with the utility power and supplies power to the entire system at the same time as the utility, it cannot be used during an outage because it has to detect a utility outage and shut itself down (or it would send power back down the utility line). Grid-tie systems usually don't utilize battery bank storage and will sometimes use microinverters built-into the solar panels.
If your inverter is NOT a grid-tie and does use a battery bank, it would use either a small automatic switch, or it could use a manual transfer switch like this one. All depends on the type of inverter and how it's integrated or planned to be integrated into the electrical system. With a "NON" grid-tie, you can use it at any time by picking any of the circuits on this type of switch, moving them to GEN and running them off the inverter power at the SAME time the utility feeds everything else. This is perfectly safe and the only concern is that you don't monitor the battery power and the available power from the battery bank gets too low, the inverter will crash and any circuits fed by it will stop working until you realize this and flip the switches back to LINE, reset the inverter, and when there is enough energy once again in the batteries you can resume using it to power some (or all) of the circuits on the transfer switch.
Thank you! I replied to the other comment you posted, hopefully that provides the answers you were looking for. Feel free to call me at 800-634-6155 and press option 3 for support.
No you cannot, the "class" of the inverter is critical and determines if it's possible to utilize this switch with an inverter rather than a separate portable generator.
It won't work ONLY if you have a grid-tie inverter, because the inverter won't work when the main power fails unless a very sophisticated automatic switch AND another inverter AND another automatic switch are all incorporated. It's required by law that a grid-tie inverter has an RSD feature, which is Rapid Shut Down. It must detect the utility power failing and shut itself down until it detects the return of the utility. It can do this in a variety of ways based on who made the inverter.
However, any inverter EXCEPT a grid-tie inverter can potentially be used with this transfer switch. There are some unique attributes on some (non-grid-tie) inverters in regards to their internal neutral/ground relationship, which could cause issues especially if there is GFCI built into the inverters and their neutral is bonded to their grounded (metal/conductive) parts.
Inverters comes in two main classes - non grid-tie and Grid-tie, and this makes ALL the difference. The class of the inverter is critical because the two types of inverters are very, very different, and if you have a grid-tie you cannot use it when the power fails without an extremely expensive setup of 2 automatic switches and a 2nd inverter that is not a grid-tie.
Hello everyone thank you for sharing this video this is exactly what I needed I live off grand and I'm using a inverter to invert my power and I think this way would be a great way to run my generator in through my load Center thank you for sharing great video
In California right now, during rolling blackouts, wishing my house had a backup generator. 😞
cali is a dump with nice temperatures
Great video loved it but I wish you would have shown how to hook up the power coming from the general
The problem with most of these UA-cam videos that talks about transfer switches is that they are not telling people that they need to “pair the type of transfer switch to the type of portable generator” they plan/want to used. The thing to know/remember is your house service panel is neutral to ground bonded (N-G bonded) which means that the neutral and the ground are connected and should not be N-G bonded AGAIN throughout your electrical system. With that is mind, you can get transfer switches that either transfer the neutral or doesn't. Also, with portable generators, you can get them either “Neutral Bonded to Frame" which means the portable generator's neutral is connected/bonded to the ground or “Floating Neutral” where the neutral and ground are not connected/ bonded. Most but not all portable generators are Neutral Bonded to Frame. So if you decide to get a transfer switch that doesn't transfer the neutral then you need to get a portable generator that is Floating Neutral so that your electrical system is not N-G bonded at two location/places. If you get a transfer switch that transfer the neutral then you need to get a portable generator that is Neutral Bonded to Frame so that your electrical system is N-G bonded when the transfer switch is switched on. Most portable generators are Neutral Bonded at the Frame to meet code when they are used as a stand alone (Separate Derive System). If you plan to use the portable generator just for backing up to your electrical system with a transfer switch then get a Floating Neutral portable generator with a transfer switch that DOESN’T transfer the neutral. But if you want to use the portable generator as a backup AND to use it outside your electrical system, get a Neutral Bonded to Frame portable generator with a transfer switch that transfer the neutral so you don’t get N-G bond at two locations/ places. Another issue not discussed is Grounding the portable generator. If you are using a Floating Neutral portable generator with a transfer switch that DOESN'T transfer neutral, you are not required to ground as your portable generator is using your electrical system's ground. If you are using a Neutral Bonded to Frame portable generator with a transfer switch that transfer neutral then it is a Separate Derived System and as such, the portable generator needs to be grounded. Read this link. www.imsasafety.org/journal/ma03/ma5.htm .
Or, hire a professional for that!
i think you mixed up neutral with ground
@@denisrhodes54 That;s why real electricians use term like 'grounded' and 'grounding' conductors. Helps eliminate any confusion.
Additionally, in this situation, the service panel is the one outside where the main breaker is located and where your grounded conductor would attach.Four wires would run from here into the house to the panel where they were working which is technically a sub-panel so the 'grounded and grounding' conductors are isolated.
Suggestion - for a temporary situation or a permanent solution, get a Generlink meter base adaptor. Would recommend the 40 amp unit.
Safe, very easy to use, super easy (5 min.) for the electric company to install.
I have no ties to the company. I bought one and it's a great solution. Using it with my Generac standby genset. Simply plug in the cord when needed, unplug when done.
Not allowed by some utilities like Georgia Power. I contacted Generlink.
@@ChrisBurnsATL That's sad. But there may be hope. The Generlink salespeople are not always that current on the various utilities' policies. In fact the Generlink rep I had was a bit ditzy! Delayed my order about 2 weeks due to her confusion. But it all came out in the end.
Before contacting Generlink, I first emailed the datasheet info and request directly to our utilities director at the city. The city provides electric to our area.
A week later I had his letter of approval! He did say that I had to contact his office to have it installed as the customer service reps don't know about the device.
I emailed his approval letter to the Generlink rep. About 5 weeks later I had the unit. Seems they build them after they are ordered.
Contacted the utility director's office. They sent out an electrician and an assistant.
The guys had never seen one before, but had it installed in a few minutes. They thought it was a really ingenious device.
In my request to the director, I did present the facts of safety, convenience, cost & practicality. I'm thinking he agreed!
Thank you! I was wondering how that all worked for years! And thinking about doing the same thing!
gary glackin don’t do it. Get the bracket that allows you to feed your whole panel.
correction.. choke is closed for startup, then opened for normal running
As someone who has done this, there is a lot more to it than they show, they gloss over getting the wires in to the box, the drilling of the hole thru the house, especially if you have concrete block construction, and the fact that some time the breakers you want to switch, the wires supplied won't reach. You can't always mount this box right beside your panel and then you find the supplied wires are too short to get to the circuits you want. These videos always seem slick, but there are many more situations that arise that aren't covered here.
How do you know when the city power is restored?
Does it foul things up if you are on a generator when the power is restored?
so you are getting both sources.
Main breaker should be switched off, then once you know power is on (neighbors, etc) shut gen off, transfer switch breakers to line, THEN main breaker on
Makes sense
That's incorrect. With this type of Transfer Switch, you never have to touch your control panel. Everything is being switched between Grid, Off or Line for those circuits in the Transfer Switch.
To answer the question, the circuits not connected to the Transfer Switch will let you know when Grid power has been restored when things turn back on.
This is a great video, I do electrical work myself, but haven’t had the opportunity to install a transfer switch, thank you. I also noticed that you use Klein tools, that’s what good electrician use.
On top of him being a doctor, astronaut, soldier. He's also an electrician!? Wow.
Prefers not to have it out front where everybody can see it.
**walks out back**
**leaves the generator out front**
I was like wth
For real. In NJ, you can't leave your garage door open and not be in your garage or the vultures will loot it.
Jack Myhre you must have garbage
I was thinking the same thing while rolling my eyes and chuckling to myself...
@Jack Myhre Me too, I was too lazy to clean it.
Great video. The graphics were nice too. Not as complicated as i thought. Thanks for sharing! 👍😊
How long can the power cord be between the generator and the outside box that leads to my utility box be I am thinking of 100 ft cord???
There isn't a set distance due to varying resistances and sizes of generators and loads, but 100 feet is generally a good distance to use as a baseline for 10 gauge wire.
The sky's the limit Roger. You will just have to keep increasing the wire size as you go further away.
Hello,
Was your installation done in Canada? If not, do you know if the Canadian code allows the connections you used for the installation of the generator electrical box?
The manual transfer switch IS THE MOST IMPORTANT feature of your portable generator connection. The other thing to remember is to understand that you'll need to be home to activate it. The standby generator is a much better solution.
electricalron Agree. We own a standby generator, which not only exercises itself for twenty minutes weekly, keeps our basement sumps (and a lot of other things) going if we're not home through an automatic transfer switch, and has twice the power generation of a portable unit. It costs more, but it's worth it (and we get some of the value back if we resell the home; buyers love this stuff built in).
electricalron you have to realize some people don't have access to natural gas hookup and installing a tank in the backyard is not feasible. Their are pros and cons to both it's just a matter of what works for your situation.
I'm simply sharing my expert advise. Take it or leave it. And yes, I am an expert after 27 years in the trade.
Ampacity Electric We paid $4500 for our Generac automatic system, not $12,000 (5 years ago). Installation not included in that price, but then again it's not in your quote on the portable unit, either. 😊. I bet we'll get half of that back in the home resale. Again, it basically powers our entire house, garage doors and everything (unlike the homeowner in this video that had to select ten devices). Frankly, I know three others who own portable units like in this video, and they all suffer with them not working in emergencies. It's not like the electrician in this video makes it sound when he says "just put it in your garage". Engines need to be run routinely, even treated gasoline goes bad, spark plugs and carburetors get corroded and clogged, and few owners routinely maintain their portable generators, let alone fumble around in the dark starting them cold. Just another view of factors to consider as one makes their own decision. Everyone has their own needs. Many make do with just a Honda i2000 small jobber.
Well, it is true that the reason for this setup is because the area in question is prone to disruption from earthquakes...
However, there are rugged, with vibration isolators, solutions that could still work... Just maybe not in the home owner's budget range...
I'd personally pay the extra expense and go with a hybrid solution with battery bank, inverter, and the generator...
Reminds me of a story I read once back when we had that big North East regional blackout back in 2003... A engineer had a hybrid car and hooked it up to power his home during the blackout...
Basically powering the house off the batteries and setting up the engine to start and recharge the batteries when they got low and then shut off until the batteries got low again... On one tank of gas he kept everything running all week...
A good generator can adjust its power output and fuel consumption but it's hard to beat a hybrid system for efficiency and I think that makes it worth the extra costs... While still being cheaper than going with solar, etc. and even if the generator needs to be stored away when not in use, the UPS means I'd have plenty of time to set it up and short outages wouldn't need the generator at all...
Thank You, my local store was not sure which 10-3 non-metallic wiring you spoke of, could you please give more info, thanks, also would a 10-3 romex work? is there a benifit of straned over sold wire? ThankYOu
Solid 10-3 romex is ideal in residential homes.
Doesn't gas(oline) have limited storage life today, specially if it has ethanol in it? It might be a good idea to mention something about replacing it and/or adding some stabilizer?
Fuel stabilizer is a definite must. And make sure to get the right kind for ethanol blended gas. Try to buy non-ethanol gas, but I know many areas don't have that option at all. Don't let the tank run dry as ethanol residue will crystalize, messing up the carbs.
They did mention that in the full episode.
I have used old gas in lawn mower before. Started up after a couple pulls. Long as engine has good compression should be fine.
Another option for this installation would have been to go with a dual fuel generator. They cost a bit more, but give you the option of running the generator on either gasoline or propane. I would go with propane, as it doesn't go bad over time and is easy to store. Propane burns cleaner, less fouling of spark plugs, and the engine oil will stay cleaner for a longer period of time.
Ampacity Electric could you mention the name please. thanks
Thank you so so so so much for the visual at 6:00. 🔥🔥
2:05 - “I don’t want to leave it out front where everyone can see it”
*proceeds to leave generator in driveway unattended*
Installing a transfer switch is pretty easy. I built a generator shed in the back of my house and now I'm ready for another 7day power outage.
How are you ventilating the shed?
I would like to add the importance of removing the coiled up feed wire from the water hose reel BEFORE running. What you created was essentially a transformer with a Farris core.
I wonder, a) does the transfer switch also switch the neutral (doesn't appear so) or b) the generator has a floating neutral. If the generator has a neutral/ground bond then doesn't the neutral have to be switched at the panel as well
This type of transfer switch does not switch the neutral, the generator would work if it was floating neutral or bonded neutral as long as no GFCI is present on the 120/240 volt locking receptacle, in this case there is no GFCI so it will function. However, ideally the neutral should be floating since the main electrical panel is bonded, and most generators can be changed from bonded neutral to floating neutral.
I prefer the idea of the interlock kit over a transfer switch. They're easy to install, create less spaghetti wires in the panel, and they let you power any circuit in your home.
I was wondering why he didn't install one as well they are much better installation. less to go wrong, less expensive and cleaner install.
They probably don’t want to show those on a show like this for liability reasons. If the interlock is installed wrong, it’ll send power down the line even when a lineman thinks it’s off.
Hire a professional
Rob Banta I guarantee you homeowners will find a way to back feed through any system if they wire and operate the equipment themselves.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 Once again proving that Mr. Murphy (and his law) is alive and well.
So, this seems to be a big debate on the internet. We have a Transfer Switch, which is safer and works for what we would need in a power outage. Here are some Pros and Cons of each option.
Interlock Switch
Pros:
1) Cost less. (Switch ($70), watts meter ($90) and inlet box ($60) Total $220)
2) Can choose any circuits to power on/off.
3) NEC compliant and UL listed.
4) DIY project.
Cons:
1) Main breaker has to be off.
2) All individual breakers need to be turned off before switching over to generator power.
3) Potential to back feed the main power lines.
4) Harder to balance both legs of generator.
5) Have to modify main control panel box.
6) Have to install a double poll 30 or 50 AMP breaker.
7) Might have to pay an electrician to install.
Transfer Switch
Pros:
1) Cost more, but can buy a kit which includes everything you need to install. (Transfer switch prewired, conduit, power intel box and power cord $300-$440)
2) Easier to manage power load.
3) Easier to balance leg loads.
4) Some switches come with a standard circuit breaker for each circuit.
5) Each circuit is isolated from utility or generator power.
6) Impossible to back feed either utility or generator power.
7) When power is restored, you'll know it by whatever circuits not included in the transfer switch.
8) No need to switch off/on any breakers in the main control panel when switching between "Gen" and "Utility" power.
9) NEC compliant and UL listed.
10) Can switch to generator power, while utility power is still powering your house.
11) Can have 10 individual circuits or 5 double poll circuits. (Only one can be a 30amp double poll)
12) Idiot proof.
13) DIY project, but more involved.
14) Comes with a watts meter.
Cons:
1) Can be costly
2) Limited to the same 10 circuits you choose.
3) Might have to pay an electrician to install.
It is impossible to backfeed the grid with an interlock if they are installed properly. In fact, their exact purpose is to prevent backfeeding of the grid.
I install generator interlock devices all of the time. They are sold on line or at Home improvement stores. Typically they prevent a 2-pole 30A backfed (gen) breaker from being turned on if the main breaker is not turned off first, and vice versa. They will allow you to use any breaker in the panel that you want, but you have to use your head, and not try to do more than the generator will handle. I typically will take "white out" and mark the breakers that should be turned off, like the water heater, dryer, Electric furnace, Air conditioner. I tell; people they can probably use one burner of their stove (not the oven) well some lights. TV, Microwave, refrigerator, freezer, without a problem. If they wany Air conditioning, it will take a much larger Generator than what we are talking about here. Whole house air conditioners take a great deal of electric just to start. About 6X running amps. This is a much better, easier, and cheaper way to do this. Hank Kline Master Electrician.
Hank Kline at that point, we’d be talking about the standby generators that do 13,000-30,000+kW, wouldn’t we?
Justin W. Not necessarily at all. With a small generator, you’re just more limited on what breakers you can safely leave on when in “generator mode.” This is a much easier, cheaper, and more flexible solution than the fancy 10-breaker box shown in the video.
Steve Martin understood. Thank you for the reply! I’m by no means an electrician, but find it important to understand why one would prefer one option compared to the other.
Justin W. ...Great. I haven’t installed a generator interlock device yet, but I’ve researched it a fair bit and it’s “on the list.” They’re UL approved and seem like the next best thing to having a $8000+ automatic whole house generator. There are some good UA-cam videos out there.
Both options are safe and valid, and it depends on the homeowner and their generator size as to which option is best for them.
The exceedingly long power cord is that going to be a problem with a drop in power? I was told that more than 25’ is not recommended unless a higher gauge cord is used.
Great video. Very good job explaining how it all works!
Having all the tool make life easier
we where going to do that but I talked my dad into doing a whole new panel with interlock and inlet.
Only time I see those useful is when you have an obsolete panel that doesn't give you interlock option. Do a service upgrade to a Cutler hammer. CH series panel with the interlock Cover. You have way more options on what you can select for circuits and not be so limited.
That is the best transfer switch I have ever seen.
Do you know the brand and model number of the transfer switch
Gen-Tran makes a good one. Or at least they used to. Check that company out. I installed about five and never had a problem.
Can I just turn off main breaker off when outage occurs and then turn on a 30 amp breaker connected to the inlet? What about bonding screw? Is now the breaker box considered subpanel? Do we separate grounds and neutrals? This video lacks a lot…
2:46 He was about to go under the deck to get inside noice
Well when someone points in a specific direction and begins with "Show me", you tend to head in that direction. He probably thought he was going to ask about something under the deck.
At the end they turned power back on at the main while the generator was still running did they put breakers
On the transfer
Box back to line ?
People are wondering why he doesn't just have a nice automatic standby diesel or natural gas generator installed. That's a good question. Here's mine: Have you ever had to depend on true professional prime generators? Because I work at a radio network and between our studios and transmitter sites we have 10 beefy primary professional grade 60-120 KW generators with automatic transfer switches and all the bells and whistles. And let me tell you something: They are a constant pain. An absolute constant pain. We have to keep after them every month, changing belts and filters, batteries, and so forth. Whenever there's an extended power outage, one or two of them will always fail. Sometimes they won't start. Sometimes they burn a winding. Or the transfer switch freezes. Or the $500 deep cycle battery quits years ahead of time. These are professional generators, brands like CAT and Cummins, meant for continuous off grid use, very well sized for their loads (not exceeding 50%). Not your wimpy Generac home standby system. Based on more than a decade of experience with these generators, plus all the horror stories from peers one accumulates, I'd never shell out a load of money for an automatic home system. Better to have a nice setup like this in place so I can connect a generator of my own at any time. It costs a lot less to drop into Costco and buy a $700 portable generator and toss it when it breaks, than it is to get a $10,000 home system installed that fails me when there's no technician to come out and look at it. You can say that it "should" not be this way, but let me ask you something: If a radio network with over a million dollar a year budget on maintenance with a licensed diesel mechanic, a licensed electrician, and engineers ON STAFF has issues with true professional diesel generators, what are your chances with a cheap Home Depot one installed by some subcontractor?
To Jose Quiñones - You make good points, as an industrial/commercial electrician who has installed generators up to 13kv, if something can go wrong it will even though it should not. Million dollar maintenance contract! For the homeowner, most outages are not long and if you have city water and natural/propane gas heating, you don't need much generation. With a well pump, having water makes all the difference in the world so money spent is worth it, especially with kids. The generac auto transfer schemes definitely make sense for many people's combination of circumstances though. A very good, simple scheme is if the local power utility allows the transfer switch to be part of the meter socket and a simple cord run between the generator and the metersocket. Almost child proof!
Jose, very good argument against a whole home generator. I priced out a whole home Generac 22kw system for my home, and the estimate was over $9000 installed. For less than $2000, I bought a 10 circuit manual transfer switch, paid for a professional to install it, and bought a 7.5kw dual fuel Champion generator ($799.99). With this setup, I can run all my lights, TV, window A/C unit, microwave, garage door opener, etc. Pros? I can use gasoline or propane. Cons? I can't run 220v appliances like an oven, central A/C, or a clothes dryer. I do have to deal with the minor inconvenience of pulling the generator out of the garage and connect the 30amp cord to the panel outside. For that 5 minutes of work each time the power goes out, I saved $7000.
As the senior tech at a public safety radio shop. I chose a big 400 gallon propane keep full serviced tank(half or better) brought liquid propane into the generator building to the gasifier that uses engine coolant. the engine has block heater. nice 454 chevy v8 on propane gave reliable back up power for the 20 years I worked there. All I did was have the generator service company out once a year to do check over and maintenance. much better than diesel those gave lots more trouble. its back up so the extra cost of propane is not a big deal at all. the propane service company let us use their tank as long as we got the fuel from them so that was a good deal. now that I am retired I keep a 2000 watt portable gas generator in my garage with the gas empty. If I need to use it like to run the furnace or refrigerator. I take it outside and put some fresh gas in it. I am not going to tell how I hook it up. but its easy and easy to put back to normal when power is restored. One thing to remember, besides how not to hurt yourself. be sure that what ever you rig up does not feed power back into the electrical grid and kill some power company guy trying to make repairs.
@Mowcowbell, nice. I just purchased a 7500W generator and am looking into adding a manual transfer switch to my home. If you don't mind me asking, how much did the 10-circuit switch and installation cost?
LOL .... Our Generac 22kW system has been installed a little over 10 years and works perfectly every time the power goes out including one time for two weeks! I'm betting your cheap-ass radio station didn't do routine maintenance. Pretty normal for a typical radio station, hire some out-of-work reprobate handyman with no electrician's license and no manufacturer's training and expect him to maintain all that equipment between swigs from his flask. No wonder all you old outdated equipment gave you so much trouble!! LOL
Don't forget your STA-BIL 360˚® gas treatment!
I prefer the whole house option, where it's just one double-pole breaker in the existing panel.
That way, you don't have to choose what circuits you want to prioritize. Of course you can't necessarily run everything you want at once, but I think we're smart enough to handle that.
With this approach, you can live life as normal, without having to work around dead circuits.
Ampacity Electric why does a flat piece of sheet metal cost so much? Is it the certification behind it? An interlock is my preferred option I just don't see the cost in the product.
I have the Interlock switch plate installed in my panel and love it. Like others said, you don't have to decide ahead of time what you might need to power in an emergency. You also don't have to rewire all your breakers to the pigtails. It's also a LOT less expensive than a transfer switch. I know that I cannot power everything at once like the electric hot water heater and central air at the same time. I have those breakers marked with an orange dot so in an emergency I know which breakers to leave off initially. Also important is a Reliance Controls PowerBACK alarm which alerts you when main electricity is restored. We've had numerous outages during the day with clear blue skies and you cannot watch for neighbors lights during the day. :-)
A service entrance interlock (or an interlock on a critical load panel) easily provides the most capability in any manual transfer system. However, a lot of people will not want to manage a panel with 30 or 40 circuit breakers, let alone if there are also sub panels (we are not all smart enough to do this, nor willing).
The breakers are being used as switches in this scenario, and not everyone in a common household will want to learn all about the 30-40 breakers, know to turn them all off before using the gen, what they feed, and their power usages in order to avoid overloading the gen. Every breaker should be turned off before connecting the generator and then turning breakers on one by one is how to manage the system and avoid connecting the generator under load. Additionally, some interlocks are not listed by a testing lab (aftermarket kits made by the panel company with the part # listed on the cabinet label). Most inspectors will turn down unlisted interlocks because they are not proven and can be defeated with the dead front off in many cases.
The installation labor in makes up for the cost of the pieces of metal (mechanism), and not every panel can be modified with an interlock, mainly only newer panels. It's a very economical concept and has been around for a long time but it's most certainly not for everyone, most people prefer ease of use over full control during emergency conditions.
Also, the points some are trying to emphasize of not having to decide what you might need to power in an emergency - sure you don't have to necessarily decide on what circuits you will power with certainty ahead of time, but you still have to decide during operation of the system and that will require being very familiar with what all of the household breakers power and their current draws. During operation, prioritizing circuits by turning breakers OFF and then back ON is exactly what everyone has to do with an interlocked panel. Reliance offers 500+ panels with interlocks but due to the (usually) extra costs for installing them, the frequently required inspections and permits on panel board modifications or service entrance installations, the average home owner can benefit greatly from something that is easy to use like the load side switch with 6 or 10 critical breakers.
gantmj yes upon are right. Last Big hurricane Florida had we tied to the dryer Plug. I was a little bit concerned but a electrician friend said it will work and. Be safe. We ran the central AC and lights only. Everything else we turned off the Breaker. Keep an eye on the Maine panel.
gantmj they make a generac meter it plugs right in to meter from generator and you have no extra fuse box way more convenient and you can switch whatever you want on at any given time.
That dang fifty foot cable cost you about as much as the generator itself. You made it look easy.
Yea there're pretty dam expensive. 50 feet oh yea you're gonna cry when you get to the register to check out 😭😭
50 ft of 10/4 SO cable is not going to cost you $500 lol. Try $90 instead.
@@macaronitire4152 I paid around $70.00 at Lowes. But then I thought, do I want it that far away? No, I don't. The whole idea is convenience. Plus it's just easier to steal.
Question about the generator. If it has a bonded neutral, I have to remove it so that we don't have current on the ground wire when plugged into the house because the neutral is bonded in the panel. Correct?
Yes
Would have been a lot cheaper and faster to install an interlock instead of a transfer switch. Not to mention you could then choose any circuit you want to run instead of only a select few.
You’ll back feed the service feed. If line men have to work on the service they’ll get knocked because of that back feed. You need to isolate the power your sending from the generator. Your poor mans way is good if you don’t happen to have a inlet at the time either way they sell this with a 10ft cord, the ats, and the inlet for 300 bucks at home depot.
@@InphazeC8 Do your research. An interlock only allows power into the panel from one source isolating the other source line. More options mean more info and you choose what is best for your needs and budget.
While also a valid method, that puts a bit more responsibility on the homeowner to be mindful of what circuits they are powering with the generator. For those who are less attentive, the transfer switch is a better method.
Are we allowed to have wire caps in the panel box? Are we supposed to put a heat shrink or tape around the wire caps?
You would need to be very careful with how you "load" those 10 circuits on that 7KW genset. Each of those 10 circuits would only be able to carry a "average" 6 amp load. That cord/receptacle would supply 30 amps on each phase (red/black). The other thing most people don't often realize is that keeping the genset fueled for a long outage can become a problem with fuel availability especially after a major catastrophic event. Propane might be a good source. It "stores" for long periods, pretty safe in its containers, multiple containers could be stored.
It was always "illegal" (National Electric Code) to splice inside a panel. Has that rule gone away??
Hello, yes it's imperative to learn a little bit about power usages of appliances when operating them with a generator. Splices have not always been illegal, there have been exceptions for splices for a very long time. As long as the fill factor of the area inside the panel isn't too high, and the splices are purposeful rather than being used as a feed-through such as a junction box, they are acceptable.
Thank you for the clarification. Always willing to listen to sound, sensible replies.
How do you deal with the floating neutral issue on portable generators?
Thanks. Now I know where the neutral wire goes. Going downstairs to connect now :)
So if I understand correctly, the neutral wire from the generator is wired to the panel. The same setup would be true if an interlock was used. Therefore is doesn’t matter that the neutral circuit is not disconnected at the main breaker. So an interlock is just as good provided you have a dedicated backfeed breaker and the main is open? What’s the issue?
Thanks for the comment. There are two main concepts for residential manual switching. An interlock, and a load side transfer switch used in this video. They both have their places, and each have their own advantages and disadvantages. The best approach is to research both types of setups to figure out what works best for your particular application. In most situations, the generator neutral is common with the utility neutral, which among a few other attributes being present, is defined as a non-separately derived system which is the most common back up system for residential in North America.
7:28
"Choke all the way open" NO, choke CLOSED haha
Noob Here. Question. Soo the gen is ON and the power from the lines go ON. Is it automatically separated (the power). The power from generator and power from the line? I thought it would have to be separated as so the power wont transfer through the power lines. May be i missed something on the discription on the panel. I thought it had to be separated so as not to cause injury to the guy trying to put the lines back up?
GoldenShaolinNutz -- The Transfer switch has a set of switches above Each Circuit Breaker, that separates the power from the Utility, and feeds the power to the Circuit Breaker, or feeds the transfer switch power from the Utility.. The man will have to go manually switch the transfer switch breakers over to Generator, when he needs to use it..
@@frandanco6289 tyty much appreciated.
What about switching the neutral or does the generator have a floating neutral? Otherwise you are bonded at two locations.
Read the code book about portable generators under a certain KW.