Love the informative video’s. I’m getting ready to build my small retirement home and I think I’m gaining enough confidence by watching your videos to pour my concrete. I guess the worst that could happen is to have to Jack hammer it out and start all over. I enjoy leaning new things.
i love how you are teaching the youngsters something that will remain with them for life...i was raised that way as well...even when i didnt want to, lol...
What impresses me is the amount of care you put into each job. That is what separates the men from the hacks. Quality is an immeasurable thing, and quite elusive judging from the previous contractor on the job. Were I a potential customer and I saw this video, there would be no doubt as to whom I would hire. Gotta love a contractor who as a matter of routine makes 4 to 5 passes with the power trowel to make sure the floor sets right, who leaves nothing to chance. Your picture should be under the word Quality in the dictionary.
Beautiful work and I am changing the plan on my shed pour to include the rebar, thx! I will never understand why people build 20 x 20 garages, absolutely too small.
Nice! Question, is the reason you didn't pour deeper footers around the perimeter because the slap is overall so thick? Also, if this were the foundation for a block/brick building, how would you have done the footers?
It looks like you used clean 3/4” stone under the slab. I’ve seen other videos where they use like a 304 compaction gravel. Can they be used interchangeably? Is one better than the other?
Good works guys. Why doesn't the edging go below frost line? You're in NY right? I'm a carpenter getting ready to do my own monolithic slab foundation for the first time in VT where footings are supposed to be 54" deep, but I don't see anyone doing their stem walls deeper than 24". So I'm curious. Thanks
Copy that. I’m considering going this route to add on to my existing shop garage. I’ve never done an Alaskan slab. Always done traditional frost walls. I think this seems like a quick/easier route. I see some people use foam board, and vapor barrier. Just wanna make sure I make the best effort to not have issues with frost.
Now, you know he saw 'you' when he put the smile on that face he made. You (the you) are a big part of what gets us through our days and always know that! Have a good one! Sonny (CT)
@@DIRT-BOSS Thanks for the reply anyways- and I realize you're in Albany, what would it cost to do the exact same slab in Geneva NY if it's 18'x25 besides the price of the concrete? Or don't you come that far?
Nice work. I would have left more out of the ground due to moisture and siding. Do you have any moisture issue in the building without using a a barrier before the pour?
at 19:00 whats the point of that machine? genuinely asking, you guys smoothed it out, then took this machine to it, does it help with packing it down as its curing?
hi great video...i want to do this for future garage...one question though...the rebar staked vertically to hold your horizontal rebar..will they rust due to earth penetration?
I always do my monolithic footer square and flat with my comlong as my template! Because if it square ⬛ an flat footer it more stable an stronger!!! I never go wide at top an narrow at the bottom! Equally from the top to bottom......
@@DIRT-BOSS I Guarantee concrete will crack that depends on the slump and the weather and the elements that is surrounding the job.. Concrete is only strong as it's base and what it's laid on. But I do understand the 45 Degrees coming out of the footer but you ever see some of the engineer's blue prints?! 🤦♂️🤷♂️ some times it cracks at the 45 just the weight but that's why they make rebar if you are going to tie the rebar with the slab... Good work enjoy your videos......
You feel it after using a power towel... hold on! Its amazing... even though the concrete has a slight moisture to it when power toweling... that little bit of extra water is big help from burning the surface or the power towel blades... you don't get that bite with the blades. Aewsome job Mike!
Great work and videos! I have a question, you pull the rebar up before covering it with concrete, but aren't you just pushing it back down when you walk on it right after? I've seen other crews use hooks to pull the rebar up before leveling the top off. Have you ever double checked to see if you have a couple of inches underneath the rebar? Just curious, thanks!
Good questions I have other videos showing that cuz people do bring that up a lot The rebar or wire will not go back down because it stays up in the rocks 2" the floor
this is a monolithic slab does not call for footers just a thickened edge It has a 12-inch haunch all the way around tapered do 4-in.. it's a cold storage garage that's what it called for I didn't engineer it
what is the benefit of a monolithic pour vs a footing pour? I'm looking at getting a garage built within the next year. looking at 28-32x28 garage, with 10-12 ft walls, and a loft truss (for storage)
Hey it's great to see quality work by professionals these days. You can tell you learned old school and graduated to technology. The job was run so smooth and your men knew where to be and when. None of that mindless worker wondering micromanaging boss nonsense just business. Well done gentlemen. Wish you much pro$perou$ $uc$e$$. P.S- I'm a first time viewer but just subscribed and liked. Look forward to future vids
I'm doing a slab just like this for my garage in Indiana. Do I need to have stone under the edges or just under the middle area where the concrete is 4"? Garage is 18'x20'. Slab will be 12"x12" around the perimeter and 4" thick all throughout the middle. I'm using #53 stone. Sod and topsoil has been removed and the ground hasn't been touched in more than 30 years. That's the last detail I have to work out before I'm ready.
Budget build.. relief cuts for the next day.. No vapor barrier cold storage no living space. We are in New York this is a monolithic slab meant to go up and down with the frost
@@DIRT-BOSS Question, if I get a concrete company to do the dirt work and pour a slab for a shop. Will it be fine to be out in the elements for a few years before I put the building on it? Trying to build slowly using cash in phases. Figured dirt work and concrete then I could frame and roof in next phase so I have a shell and then finish with the insulation electric etc etc later. No code here as I'm in a rural area so don't have to worry about permits etc. Everything will be build to code standards however.
Great Video. I have a contractor recommending this type of poor for a single car garage addition. Being in OH, should we insulate the final concrete? I have seen this recommended elsewhere, just curious of your opinion. Thanks again!
Great video! I'm getting ready to build a 24x30 detached garage. am I crazy to have a sloped floor. Do they need to be sloped. 1/4" every foot. My bids are coming back 4-5k more with a sloped floor. Contractors are stating that's why it's more. Video after video, I'm not seeing any sloped garage floors. Please advise. Thoughts. Location is Grand Junction, CO. Pretty fair weather, not wet at all. A few snow storms.
If you're doing a monolithic slab 90% of them are not sloped.. cuz the whole perimeter has to be level.. if you're doing a conventional foundation 4 ft frost walls with the slab inside the walls then you could slope it no problem
@@DIRT-BOSS Thanks, So I really don't need a slope and can reduce the cost significantly pouring flat. Seems like a slope would just cause issues with tool boxes, etc. I normally wash out the garage with a big squeegee.
How many bags of cement mix would you need to do that type of foundation? 100ish 60kg bags? Also, can you use T bar instead of rebar? My options are limited and trucks and rebar are 4 figure numbers. I need to make a 20x20 slab. I'm thinking 10x10 at a time cause it will be mixed in a barrel.
@@DIRT-BOSS yea I do know of a gas powered barrel mixer close by that could make it easier. My closest hardware store is 500km away by plane lol. Any thoughts on using Tbar? I like to recycle it and there are thousands of them close to me and they are free(a bit bent though but that may be a plus).
@@DIRT-BOSS Thank you for that clarity. Now to get really off on a tangent lol... I read that the Romans used Saltwater in their concrete and that is why it is still around to this day, unlike some other things. Might have been a BS TikTok video but it has me thinking. I live by the ocean so any soil I use will already have salt in it. Would it hurt to use salt water instead? Thanks again I've been asking that, about Tbar, in the FB world for a year and just get teased lol or trolled.
You did the finish passes with the power trowel 4-5 times, is there something you look for to know is time for the next hit, or do you go again after a certain amount of time?
First thing between passes go opposite directions on the slab.. also.. I always step on it make sure the concrete's not sticking to the bottom of my boots.
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over an existing sewer line running through the property. For instance adding a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running out the back of an existing home out under the slab and garage.
Is there going to be a garage built on this? What are you going to do for anchor bolts? How deep are the edges of the slab? I believe we require a minimum of 24" here.
@@DIRT-BOSS I misspelled it. Day1, I've seen on commercial jobs. They use it instead on water, it's expensive and seems to give a really nice finish on the trowel machine. Have you ever seen it used? "DAY1 FINISHING AID is a colloidal silica-based topical additive that makes concrete flatwork finishing easier and faster. It produces a better result and reduces the risk of a prematurely setting slab. Applied during floating and troweling, DAY1 increases cream, making for easier, better finishing and extended workable time under adverse conditions." "Applied as a troweling aid, Lythic’s Day1TM one component concrete curing densifier, sealer and hardener provides a smooth tight surface. After final trowel is complete, the formulation is effective as a cure so no curing agent application is required. Then, after 24 hours, the slab surface repels water to prevent moisture penetration that can lead to ASR. The result is a slab with increased surface hardness and abrasion resistance that can be polished with less time and tooling. According to Lythic President David Loe, the major benefits of DAY1 include transforming the slab into a tougher, more durable flooring surface that is waterproofed to protect from ASR, as well as the labor savings. “Using DAY1 as a troweling aid saves labor because it also impregnates the surface with a curing aid/water proofing component,” said Loe. “Returning to the site to apply a curing compound or other curing method is not needed.” "
Don’t most jurisdictions require that footings be below the frost line? It seems like mono pours are always the exception, but I have never understood why they can much shallower?
Dirt Boss Masonry & Excavating thanks for the reply! Can you get away with doing this on all types of structures including houses? I feel like I’ve only seen them implemented for sheds and garages etc
bpdp379 don’t those usually use foam or insulation to actually keep the frost from penetrating under the slab and thus keep it from heaving? Whereas it sounds like this one can move up and down with the frost?
@@omgitzzyou1 they do. I am not speaking for DB&E but he keeps calling it an Alaskan slab which is a FPSF. I am surmising he is doing a modification of that method which may or may not work in his climate. I don't know the details...a monolithic slab in Costa Rica or Texas wouldn't require insulation, but because you were asking about frost line I thought it might be more helpful for you.
Awesome job done the right way the other one must be smoking some bad stuff can't even do things right. If you want it done right call the Dirt Boss one time all it takes
that tilt bucket made filling that in much easier. the original trench was waaaaay off. i would have been very unhappy with that. how do you feel about those monolithic slabs? turned B. E. A. UTIFAL!
Great start to finish video on how it "should be done". Love the one man power screed. You are a true craftsman that your employees seem to look up to and respect. No need for knee boards with a power trowel. I was wondering if a plastic vapor barrier under the slab would have been an extra? How do they attach the framing to the slab? For what ever reason here in Texas the front discharge mixers have not caught on. I know the first time I saw one as a kid in Connecticut in the 70's I was sure we were being invaded by the Ruskies. LOL
Yes no vapor barrier needed for code because it's not heated or living space.. Yes would be an extra... Front discharge trucks are a must!! No need for anchor bolts they are going to tapcon or thunderstruck it down.. That way I could run the power trowel through the whole area and get a flat floor. Thanks
Thank you sir ! I just learned so much from you and your so good and cool at teaching it! I’m trying to buy a home and I want a 2 car I can epoxy and make my office and I you thought me so much about how to plan my plot and code and material . Thank you!!!!
“BACK ON SITE “Got the right concrete truck this time mike 😂 getting her done the right way nice work young jj seems to be learning quick with you and Nikko as always nice work dirt boss
We polish concrete for a living and man 'o man do we wish everyone would finish out a slab like you do!
Thanks man I always tell the customer it's going to look like a granite countertop!
Love the informative video’s. I’m getting ready to build my small retirement home and I think I’m gaining enough confidence by watching your videos to pour my concrete. I guess the worst that could happen is to have to Jack hammer it out and start all over. I enjoy leaning new things.
Great video! Very cool to see the view from the operators view
Great that you have the kid picking up the trade also. It's always hard to find people that will work. Great job!!
Yes hes a great guy
i love how you are teaching the youngsters something that will remain with them for life...i was raised that way as well...even when i didnt want to, lol...
For sure me too !
You're awesome! Your eye for perfection is appreciated!
I respect your backbreaking labor here. My did owned his own flatwork business. Great pour! That driver did a nice job too.
Thanks 👍
The pride in your work shows, my friend. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks Dale 😁
What a great contractor,bravo!
you make it look very easy because you are gifted
Thanks buddy
I get the impression you run a couple sites at once! thanks for this video! and explaining the rebar
Dame Dirt Boss you do it all
how thick was the concrete in the middle ? great video
@@PoooShooo 4-5 inch
What impresses me is the amount of care you put into each job. That is what separates the men from the hacks. Quality is an immeasurable thing, and quite elusive judging from the previous contractor on the job. Were I a potential customer and I saw this video, there would be no doubt as to whom I would hire. Gotta love a contractor who as a matter of routine makes 4 to 5 passes with the power trowel to make sure the floor sets right, who leaves nothing to chance. Your picture should be under the word Quality in the dictionary.
Hey thanks so much!
Only telling the truth.
As always Dirt boss nice job , your work is always top notch, looking forward to the next one
Thanks Brian!
Beautiful work and I am changing the plan on my shed pour to include the rebar, thx! I will never understand why people build 20 x 20 garages, absolutely too small.
Thanks
In many areas if you build 400 sq ft of smaller building you don't need a building permit.
Great to watch. We are planning a 20x20 shop extension from the garage!
Nice Good luck !
Nice!
Question, is the reason you didn't pour deeper footers around the perimeter because the slap is overall so thick?
Also, if this were the foundation for a block/brick building, how would you have done the footers?
Google monolithic slab it's meant to float and no you need to full foundation for brick work
@@DIRT-BOSS ah yep. Thanks for the tip.
It looks like you used clean 3/4” stone under the slab. I’ve seen other videos where they use like a 304 compaction gravel. Can they be used interchangeably? Is one better than the other?
They both have their purpose I like using clean rock because it doesn't hold moisture and it will not freeze and pick the slab
I’m so glad you did this video . I’m about to build my shop slab 33x26. .the blueprints are just like this
Nice!
I don’t normally do concrete so should be interesting
Put some larger footers in. Good luck
Nice size slab to train the new guy. Went well for you and plenty of air over the slab. Don't you wish they all went that easy.
Yes sir definitely
I’m curious how that is below the frost line in Ny? Isn’t that going to heave?
Nope floats
Good works guys. Why doesn't the edging go below frost line? You're in NY right? I'm a carpenter getting ready to do my own monolithic slab foundation for the first time in VT where footings are supposed to be 54" deep, but I don't see anyone doing their stem walls deeper than 24". So I'm curious. Thanks
did you put air in the mix? Also, how often do you make expansion cuts? What state was this pour in?
No
Nice work. Couple questions. Why no vapor barrier? And what kind of tilt bucket on the skid? That things bad ass!
Cold storage it was a flip house they didn't want to put it under there.. bucket is Bradco
Copy that. I’m considering going this route to add on to my existing shop garage. I’ve never done an Alaskan slab. Always done traditional frost walls. I think this seems like a quick/easier route. I see some people use foam board, and vapor barrier. Just wanna make sure I make the best effort to not have issues with frost.
Is that Smiley face for me?! 🥰
Great Job on the floor!!
😁 of course!
Now, you know he saw 'you' when he put the smile on that face he made. You (the you) are a big part of what gets us through our days and always know that! Have a good one! Sonny (CT)
Thanks Sonny!! ☺️
When doing a monolithic how wide do you go on the edges that are deeper than the top. The so called ditch around the inside perimeter?
@@andyvaldez26 each slab varies but this one was 12 in at the bottom then tapers up
@DIRT-BOSS is there a guide to follow as far as to each slab, I'm planning in doing one, it's going to be 30' x 50' with 6" concrete?
@@andyvaldez26 check your local code each town is different but you're going to need a bigger haunch than that one on the video for that size.
Does the rebar not sink to the bottom when you walk over it during screed etc.?
No it does not we lift it and it does not go down I show that in many videos
That concrete guy really helped with placing the muck where it was needed , great job . 🇬🇧
Yes he did He's one of their best!
Ya dude that's his f-ing job lmao
I didn't notice it was mentioned, only that you ordered an extra half yard.... how many yards did this take...?
I don't recall that was last year 😆
@@DIRT-BOSS Thanks for the reply anyways- and I realize you're in Albany, what would it cost to do the exact same slab in Geneva NY if it's 18'x25 besides the price of the concrete? Or don't you come that far?
Nice work. I would have left more out of the ground due to moisture and siding. Do you have any moisture issue in the building without using a a barrier before the pour?
No Cold storage does not call for vapor barrier
at 19:00 whats the point of that machine? genuinely asking, you guys smoothed it out, then took this machine to it, does it help with packing it down as its curing?
Yes it makes it smooth like a countertop
Good lookin' slab! You guys do nice work for sure!
Thanks Neil
Fixing someone's mess. Don't u love it. Great job.
Yeah i hear ya there!
hi great video...i want to do this for future garage...one question though...the rebar staked vertically to hold your horizontal rebar..will they rust due to earth penetration?
Yes they probably will but that is just the hold it in the air for concrete purposes nothing structural
thank you sir
In Florida we can't have any rebar have contact with dirt and trucks can't wash out in yard have to have wash box on site. But great job
Really thanks for sharing
So you don't vibrate around the outer edges where the rebars are??
I go around I tap it with a hammer but the viber screed that I use vibrates all the way down
No need for joints? I don't know. Just asking gonna do a 12 x 24 garage in S.C. and don't want to cut any joints.
If you don't want to then don't but it probably will crack
well done!
I am planning to lay a similar size slab soon, and your instructions come in very handy. thanks a lot!
Thanks please subscribe
Great job I'm impressed.
Thank you
Excellent job 👍!!!
Thanks Dutch
What type of gravel are you using for your base? Does the gravel need to be compatible or can it be loose? Thx
Always compact its crusher run
I always do my monolithic footer square and flat with my comlong as my template! Because if it square ⬛ an flat footer it more stable an stronger!!! I never go wide at top an narrow at the bottom! Equally from the top to bottom......
The purpose of the 45 is engineered and it is so you do not get a crack if you have it the straight up and down you will create a crack point
@@DIRT-BOSS I Guarantee concrete will crack that depends on the slump and the weather and the elements that is surrounding the job.. Concrete is only strong as it's base and what it's laid on. But I do understand the 45 Degrees coming out of the footer but you ever see some of the engineer's blue prints?! 🤦♂️🤷♂️ some times it cracks at the 45 just the weight but that's why they make rebar if you are going to tie the rebar with the slab... Good work enjoy your videos......
I watched many concret videos on yt but very view keeping check of rebar overlap and concret coverage.
Keep up the good work. Greetings from germany.
I appreciate that!
Great teamwork!
Thanks
You feel it after using a power towel... hold on! Its amazing... even though the concrete has a slight moisture to it when power toweling... that little bit of extra water is big help from burning the surface or the power towel blades... you don't get that bite with the blades. Aewsome job Mike!
Yes sir exactly
Great work and videos! I have a question, you pull the rebar up before covering it with concrete, but aren't you just pushing it back down when you walk on it right after? I've seen other crews use hooks to pull the rebar up before leveling the top off. Have you ever double checked to see if you have a couple of inches underneath the rebar? Just curious, thanks!
Good questions I have other videos showing that cuz people do bring that up a lot The rebar or wire will not go back down because it stays up in the rocks 2" the floor
@@DIRT-BOSSThanks for the quick reply and explanation! Sorry for the repeating question.
Just built one with 24x24 footers. What size footer are you doing? Did not see where you dug any.
this is a monolithic slab does not call for footers just a thickened edge It has a 12-inch haunch all the way around tapered do 4-in.. it's a cold storage garage that's what it called for I didn't engineer it
@@DIRT-BOSS nice job.
GOOD AFTERNOON
what is the benefit of a monolithic pour vs a footing pour? I'm looking at getting a garage built within the next year. looking at 28-32x28 garage, with 10-12 ft walls, and a loft truss (for storage)
Cost Is the main factor The slab is cheaper.
scott17818 they are also useful for building on shallow bedrock where excavation would be prohibitively expensive.
Was wondering why no plastice sheet moisture barrier?
Good question Cold storage if it was a heated garage or living space then you need poly.. this was a budget build to flip the house.
NICE LITTLE MACHINE .
Thanks bud
Hey it's great to see quality work by professionals these days. You can tell you learned old school and graduated to technology. The job was run so smooth and your men knew where to be and when. None of that mindless worker wondering micromanaging boss nonsense just business. Well done gentlemen. Wish you much pro$perou$ $uc$e$$.
P.S- I'm a first time viewer but just subscribed and liked. Look forward to future vids
Thanks buddy much appreciated
Good job my brother 👍👍👍
Thanks man
I'm doing a slab just like this for my garage in Indiana. Do I need to have stone under the edges or just under the middle area where the concrete is 4"? Garage is 18'x20'. Slab will be 12"x12" around the perimeter and 4" thick all throughout the middle. I'm using #53 stone. Sod and topsoil has been removed and the ground hasn't been touched in more than 30 years. That's the last detail I have to work out before I'm ready.
If the ground is hard you don't have to but I tend to put a couple inches under there just to level up the forms
@@DIRT-BOSS that makes good sense to me! Thank you for the help! I love the videos you put out. I’ve subscribed and look forward to future content!
Nice job!
Thanks Mike much appreciated!
What climate zone is this in? No vapor barrier, insulation or relief cuts in the concrete. How come? Not bashing, genuinely curious
Budget build.. relief cuts for the next day.. No vapor barrier cold storage no living space. We are in New York this is a monolithic slab meant to go up and down with the frost
@@DIRT-BOSS thanks! I'm in Alaska. So familiar with frost. 😉
@@DIRT-BOSS Question, if I get a concrete company to do the dirt work and pour a slab for a shop. Will it be fine to be out in the elements for a few years before I put the building on it? Trying to build slowly using cash in phases. Figured dirt work and concrete then I could frame and roof in next phase so I have a shell and then finish with the insulation electric etc etc later. No code here as I'm in a rural area so don't have to worry about permits etc. Everything will be build to code standards however.
@@kendallhuseman3685 Yes for sure That would be fine The only thing you may just want to seal the concrete with a concrete sealer
Great Video. I have a contractor recommending this type of poor for a single car garage addition. Being in OH, should we insulate the final concrete? I have seen this recommended elsewhere, just curious of your opinion. Thanks again!
You can insulate especially if your going to heat the area.
@@DIRT-BOSSThank you!
Excellent quality workmanship! Nice job, sir!
Thanks bud
you make it look easy good job
Thanks
Great video! I'm getting ready to build a 24x30 detached garage. am I crazy to have a sloped floor. Do they need to be sloped. 1/4" every foot. My bids are coming back 4-5k more with a sloped floor. Contractors are stating that's why it's more. Video after video, I'm not seeing any sloped garage floors. Please advise. Thoughts. Location is Grand Junction, CO. Pretty fair weather, not wet at all. A few snow storms.
If you're doing a monolithic slab 90% of them are not sloped.. cuz the whole perimeter has to be level.. if you're doing a conventional foundation 4 ft frost walls with the slab inside the walls then you could slope it no problem
@@DIRT-BOSS Thanks, So I really don't need a slope and can reduce the cost significantly pouring flat. Seems like a slope would just cause issues with tool boxes, etc. I normally wash out the garage with a big squeegee.
@@vastaction Yes I would save the money you don't need a pitch Even with pitch it still holds water most of the time
Can ab3 which is a dusty stone that compacts hard be used for a base for concrete? Is there a reason to use ab3 or stone at certain situations.
Yes that's what we call crusher run we use that all the time..
Bloody awesome job 😎🇦🇺👌
Thanks
Hey Mike you do a damn good job. Thanks for the video.
Thanks buddy
You dont use plastic to keep the moisture from coming threw the concrete ?
Yes we do when call for living space.. this was cold storage
How many bags of cement mix would you need to do that type of foundation? 100ish 60kg bags? Also, can you use T bar instead of rebar? My options are limited and trucks and rebar are 4 figure numbers. I need to make a 20x20 slab. I'm thinking 10x10 at a time cause it will be mixed in a barrel.
Wow that's a lot of work to mix by hand but you would be 450 to 500 bags
@@DIRT-BOSS yea I do know of a gas powered barrel mixer close by that could make it easier. My closest hardware store is 500km away by plane lol. Any thoughts on using Tbar? I like to recycle it and there are thousands of them close to me and they are free(a bit bent though but that may be a plus).
@@mak9595 tea bar would be fine any type of steel you could put in there would work as reinforcement even a chain link fence
@@DIRT-BOSS Thank you for that clarity. Now to get really off on a tangent lol... I read that the Romans used Saltwater in their concrete and that is why it is still around to this day, unlike some other things. Might have been a BS TikTok video but it has me thinking. I live by the ocean so any soil I use will already have salt in it. Would it hurt to use salt water instead? Thanks again I've been asking that, about Tbar, in the FB world for a year and just get teased lol or trolled.
@@mak9595 I really can't answer you on the salt water but possibly filter it.. but saltwater is better than no water !
How many inches of stone do you put in on the edges if you’re using 2x12’s? Thanks
6 in is good
So you have about 6” on concrete on the edges? Or do you put the forms on top of the stone? Thanks
@@ccomfort10 Did you watch the video? Stone on the bottom 12-in board the concrete's 12 in thick
@@DIRT-BOSS gotcha, my bad I misunderstood
A tilt Bucket on a skid steer!?!?!?! Is that on the coupler or the bucket? Thanks in advance and nice work. Great channel!
Jon yes it's in attachment between the bucket and the skid steer
Nice job ! But had a quick question, why a monolithic slab wouldn't a 4 in slab float just the same
No 4 in slab will break over time with a building on its edges
Thanks for the reply, that makes sense!
THIS IS SO NICE
Thanks so much !
@@DIRT-BOSS NO PROBLEM ANYTIME
You did the finish passes with the power trowel 4-5 times, is there something you look for to know is time for the next hit, or do you go again after a certain amount of time?
First thing between passes go opposite directions on the slab.. also.. I always step on it make sure the concrete's not sticking to the bottom of my boots.
don't you need a footing? I am planning to build same in downstate ny.. Long Island area..
No footing is needed but you want to check with your local building department
Are there any regulations about building a garage slab over an existing sewer line running through the property. For instance adding a garage slab spanning the width of a back yard with the sewer line running out the back of an existing home out under the slab and garage.
Check what your local inspector with your local codes
what are the width and length of that floor?
20x20
Is there going to be a garage built on this? What are you going to do for anchor bolts? How deep are the edges of the slab? I believe we require a minimum of 24" here.
Yes 12" haunch thunder stud type fasteners..
Thanks!
Very nice work!
Thanks Dave
Is it ok to put rebar in the ground to support the outer runs of rebar?
I've done them both ways.. inspection passed
Nice job. If DayOne was really cheap would you use it on a job like this? What would be the advantages? Thanks.
Dave not sure what you're asking?
@@DIRT-BOSS I misspelled it. Day1, I've seen on commercial jobs. They use it instead on water, it's expensive and seems to give a really nice finish on the trowel machine.
Have you ever seen it used?
"DAY1 FINISHING AID is a colloidal silica-based topical additive that makes concrete flatwork finishing easier and faster. It produces a better result and reduces the risk of a prematurely setting slab. Applied during floating and troweling, DAY1 increases cream, making for easier, better finishing and extended workable time under adverse conditions."
"Applied as a troweling aid, Lythic’s Day1TM one component concrete curing densifier, sealer and hardener provides a smooth tight surface. After final trowel is complete, the formulation is effective as a cure so no curing agent application is required. Then, after 24 hours, the slab surface repels water to prevent moisture penetration that can lead to ASR. The result is a slab with increased surface hardness and abrasion resistance that can be polished with less time and tooling.
According to Lythic President David Loe, the major benefits of DAY1 include transforming the slab into a tougher, more durable flooring surface that is waterproofed to protect from ASR, as well as the labor savings. “Using DAY1 as a troweling aid saves labor because it also impregnates the surface with a curing aid/water proofing component,” said Loe. “Returning to the site to apply a curing compound or other curing method is not needed.” "
@@davidnull5590 interesting No I haven't used it but I will check it out Thanks
Don’t most jurisdictions require that footings be below the frost line? It seems like mono pours are always the exception, but I have never understood why they can much shallower?
Yes The theory is the slab is supposed to float up and down with the frost.
Will Holtzinger google “frost protected shallow foundation.”
Dirt Boss Masonry & Excavating thanks for the reply! Can you get away with doing this on all types of structures including houses? I feel like I’ve only seen them implemented for sheds and garages etc
bpdp379 don’t those usually use foam or insulation to actually keep the frost from penetrating under the slab and thus keep it from heaving? Whereas it sounds like this one can move up and down with the frost?
@@omgitzzyou1 they do. I am not speaking for DB&E but he keeps calling it an Alaskan slab which is a FPSF. I am surmising he is doing a modification of that method which may or may not work in his climate. I don't know the details...a monolithic slab in Costa Rica or Texas wouldn't require insulation, but because you were asking about frost line I thought it might be more helpful for you.
Awesome job done the right way the other one must be smoking some bad stuff can't even do things right. If you want it done right call the Dirt Boss one time all it takes
Thanks buddy
Oh give me that Kubota! Very nice machine...
Thanks
that tilt bucket made filling that in much easier. the original trench was waaaaay off. i would have been very unhappy with that. how do you feel about those monolithic slabs? turned B. E. A. UTIFAL!
They have their purpose.. it's more economically pleasing to the budget.. but in the long run I think foundation is best..
But what about u didn’t do like any kinda footer. Not below frost line at all.... I’m confused
No footer on a floating slab
If you over order on the concrete can you send it back or do you have to dump it on the site
No you could send it back.. they use it to build Mafia blocks.. (retaining wall blocks)
@@DIRT-BOSS Or BOOTS! Sonny (CT)
Great Job fellas.
Thanks
Aren’t “J” bolts embedded in the concrete required along the edges?
No thunder stud after
Great start to finish video on how it "should be done". Love the one man power screed. You are a true craftsman that your employees seem to look up to and respect. No need for knee boards with a power trowel. I was wondering if a plastic vapor barrier under the slab would have been an extra? How do they attach the framing to the slab? For what ever reason here in Texas the front discharge mixers have not caught on. I know the first time I saw one as a kid in Connecticut in the 70's I was sure we were being invaded by the Ruskies. LOL
Yes no vapor barrier needed for code because it's not heated or living space.. Yes would be an extra... Front discharge trucks are a must!! No need for anchor bolts they are going to tapcon or thunderstruck it down.. That way I could run the power trowel through the whole area and get a flat floor.
Thanks
Mighty fine slab
Thanks buddy
@@DIRT-BOSS this household loves ya madman. Keep up the mint work
@@jmac88022 Thanks My People!! 😁
Great help is hard to find. Hope you prosper ten fold.
Thanks bud!
Been in on some do-overs. Ugly. But there is no doubt at all that they got the right guy to undo and do it right. Great crew!
Thanks joe!
What size stone was that you used? Thanks!
We used crusher run there which is ones and twos crushed with dust.
How long do you have to wait, or not, to pass the float? (bull float)
after or before the bleeding of the concrete?
We both float it right after we screed thanks !
@@DIRT-BOSS thank you very much
Thank you sir ! I just learned so much from you and your so good and cool at teaching it!
I’m trying to buy a home and I want a 2 car I can epoxy and make my office and I you thought me so much about how to plan my plot and code and material .
Thank you!!!!
Nice your welcome
just love videos so much info. I think you should be trads teacher
Thanks Terrell I appreciate that!
Pretty good my friend 👍
Thanks buddy Thanks for watching
Thank you for this educational video, the way you explained everything couldn't have been more clear
Thanks man appreciate it
How come you guys don't use slab mesh or trench mesh over there, you use individual lengths of reo and have to lay and tie it all together?
We only can use whats supplied
@@DIRT-BOSS can you get mesh there?
@@MrJFoster1984 there was wire mesh mats throughout the whole slab
You used lengths of re bars, not mesh though?
@@MrJFoster1984 you'll have to go back to the video and look there is wire mesh & rebar sir
“BACK ON SITE “Got the right concrete truck this time mike 😂 getting her done the right way nice work young jj seems to be learning quick with you and Nikko as always nice work dirt boss
Yes thank you
You guys work like a bunch of 90 year old chicks. Remind me to never contact you guys to do a slab
You guys do great work
Thanks Jeff 👍🏼
Intresting concrete truck 🇨🇦
Yes that's all we have around here Thanks for watching