Here's a tip: If you make note of the position of your fork tubes you can rotate them 180* and move fresh material over the internal bushings in the sliders effectively tightening up the clearances in the forks. most effective on older high mileage bikes. Also dump all the fluid and put in fresh stuff.
Thank you for this video! I'm trying to install Progressive Springs and replace fork seals on my '97 FXDWG and couldn't find anything for this style of fork. Yours was the best video I could find to explain this process. I've already got both forks pulled and ready to replace the springs this weekend! Thanks again.
With stiffer springs up front the bike is going to corner different as well, steering response is going to be different as dynamic weight transfer relative to throttle input is now changed.
Worked well on my 2011 fltrx. You need to be careful of the valve below the springs it will slide out when emptying the old oil from the forks. Also you need to cycle the forks in and out to get all of the old oil out then cycle again when you add the new oil to get to 5.5 inches. I took out 8.5oz from each fork and added 8oz in each to get to 5.5 in. Thanks for the video.
I appreciate the video you saved me much time and effort with your short cuts! Cant say I didn't mess up placing everything back but I feel more comfortable with my Harley now.
Your awesome. Great video, You take the guess work out, the using the pinch bolt as a vice definetly saved my chrome, or an hour of figuring it out myself. Thanks for this video bro
I had significant "buzzing" in my handlebars, seat and floorboards before I installed this kit. Unknown to me before hand I had Harley lowering springs in the bike. It bottomed out alot. I rebuilt the rear swingarm, new bushings in the back, drag heavy duty engine mount in the front and did an alignment with the dog bones. Still the buzzing was there. Started to think crank out of balance even though had only 1 thousandths run out on the punion shaft. This kit plus 412 heavy duties in the back and the buzzing is almost nothing. Strange? I weigh 285 and the bike is a 2002 road king. Wondering if the stiffer setup is forcing the engine mounts to absorb more of the engine pulses? Thoughts?
Found problem...someone before me installed extra long bolts in the front mount plate that connects to the front of the engine. The bolts were hitting the frame as the engine ran. Cut bolts shorter problem solved!
I agree with another poster , why not just change the fork oil while your there ? Even if you did it recently don’t you think guys would have found it helpful? Other than my opinion lol it was well explained
I appreciate the video. Unless it was just for this bike model, or you planned to drain the oil, not exactly sure I understand why you stated it was necessary to completely remove the fork. Either way, very helpful demonstration, thanks.
geraldh78 the cap to remove the spring was under the top of the triple trees. My 2000 FXDWG is the same way. So glad I found this video. The top of the fork fits directly under the top of the triple tree & the 35mm cap is only for adding fluid. The “square” style cap (the one he used the clamp to loosen instead of having a vice) is under the top of the triple tree. On a lot of bikes I see where they remove the top cap & pull the spring out. This one & mine as well, have to have the forks completely removed to pull the spring. Pain in the ass but that’s how they were built
how come you dont use the springs supplied that need to be installed around the damper rod?..you are the third videos ive seen not do that step so i contatced progressive and they say it neds to be done..
I apologize, I know this video is a few years old, but you stated these were the progressive "heavy duty" spring kit, does that mean you used the heavy duty spring rate vs the standard duty spring rate offered by Progressive Suspension? Just curious, I'm thinking of installing a set into my King.
Hi my bike is lowered 2” and i want to take it back to stock height. Do i have to buy new springs or is it a case of cutting pvc longer then whats in there already to go back to the stock height ?
Very good video with lots of tutorials. My concern is, are those lowering springs comes in fixed dropped length or you can actually adjust the lowering length. For instance, if the kit was designed to lower the bike 2”, can you adjust the lowering length to....let’s say 1.25” or whatever length you feel like doing? Thank you
Wow 1hr job on my shovelhead low rider. Who wants to buy a 15 road king.? I bought it cause I’m getting old for comfort but the damn things to hard to work on. Except the engine. I did that myself. But that’s the only thing easier than my shovelhead
This is a thorough, well articulated video. Thank you for doing this.
Best video ive seen on this. Thank you!
Here's a tip: If you make note of the position of your fork tubes you can rotate them 180* and move fresh material over the internal bushings in the sliders effectively tightening up the clearances in the forks. most effective on older high mileage bikes. Also dump all the fluid and put in fresh stuff.
Thank you for this video! I'm trying to install Progressive Springs and replace fork seals on my '97 FXDWG and couldn't find anything for this style of fork. Yours was the best video I could find to explain this process. I've already got both forks pulled and ready to replace the springs this weekend! Thanks again.
With stiffer springs up front the bike is going to corner different as well, steering response is going to be different as dynamic weight transfer relative to throttle input is now changed.
shut up
@@melissatravis9735 If you have a better explanation of what happens when you swap spring rates let's hear it ...
Now I know which end of a spring goes in first and that I do not need to drain oil to do the job. Thank you for this video.
Worked well on my 2011 fltrx. You need to be careful of the valve below the springs it will slide out when emptying the old oil from the forks. Also you need to cycle the forks in and out to get all of the old oil out then cycle again when you add the new oil to get to 5.5 inches. I took out 8.5oz from each fork and added 8oz in each to get to 5.5 in. Thanks for the video.
I appreciate the video you saved me much time and effort with your short cuts! Cant say I didn't mess up placing everything back but I feel more comfortable with my Harley now.
Your awesome. Great video, You take the guess work out, the using the pinch bolt as a vice definetly saved my chrome, or an hour of figuring it out myself. Thanks for this video bro
This video was awesome very informative I'll do my Progressive suspension now thank you 💪
great video. im looking at installing air ride front and rear and wanted to see how hard it is to do front thanks for the heads up
Great video. Just what I was looking for.
I had significant "buzzing" in my handlebars, seat and floorboards before I installed this kit. Unknown to me before hand I had Harley lowering springs in the bike. It bottomed out alot. I rebuilt the rear swingarm, new bushings in the back, drag heavy duty engine mount in the front and did an alignment with the dog bones. Still the buzzing was there. Started to think crank out of balance even though had only 1 thousandths run out on the punion shaft. This kit plus 412 heavy duties in the back and the buzzing is almost nothing. Strange? I weigh 285 and the bike is a 2002 road king. Wondering if the stiffer setup is forcing the engine mounts to absorb more of the engine pulses? Thoughts?
Found problem...someone before me installed extra long bolts in the front mount plate that connects to the front of the engine. The bolts were hitting the frame as the engine ran. Cut bolts shorter problem solved!
I agree with another poster , why not just change the fork oil while your there ? Even if you did it recently don’t you think guys would have found it helpful? Other than my opinion lol it was well explained
Great video.
I see some people who do not remove forks from bike when installing these progressive kits. Is it completely necessary?
I appreciate the video. Unless it was just for this bike model, or you planned to drain the oil, not exactly sure I understand why you stated it was necessary to completely remove the fork. Either way, very helpful demonstration, thanks.
geraldh78 the cap to remove the spring was under the top of the triple trees. My 2000 FXDWG is the same way. So glad I found this video. The top of the fork fits directly under the top of the triple tree & the 35mm cap is only for adding fluid. The “square” style cap (the one he used the clamp to loosen instead of having a vice) is under the top of the triple tree. On a lot of bikes I see where they remove the top cap & pull the spring out. This one & mine as well, have to have the forks completely removed to pull the spring. Pain in the ass but that’s how they were built
@@davidharrison172would it not be possible to remove the upper triple tree?
how come you dont use the springs supplied that need to be installed around the damper rod?..you are the third videos ive seen not do that step so i contatced progressive and they say it neds to be done..
Thank you, great video! what kind of jack did you use?
Good job
Thanks. Thanks. Thanks. 👌🏾👍🏾
Very nice video and audio.
Well done.
Why the he’ll wouldn’t you change the fork oil? And those springs aren’t truly progressively wound.
tell me thats not a torque wrench your using for a ratchet?
I apologize, I know this video is a few years old, but you stated these were the progressive "heavy duty" spring kit, does that mean you used the heavy duty spring rate vs the standard duty spring rate offered by Progressive Suspension? Just curious, I'm thinking of installing a set into my King.
Did it bottom out ?
Hi my bike is lowered 2” and i want to take it back to stock height. Do i have to buy new springs or is it a case of cutting pvc longer then whats in there already to go back to the stock height ?
What year is this road king?
Putting the cap back on seems simple.I thought no way are you getting a spring back in there.But it sits below the cap.
I got a 2014 ultra limited can I install and springs on mine
Very good video with lots of tutorials. My concern is, are those lowering springs comes in fixed dropped length or you can actually adjust the lowering length. For instance, if the kit was designed to lower the bike 2”, can you adjust the lowering length to....let’s say 1.25” or whatever length you feel like doing?
Thank you
I just got a set.. Before installing the kit.. it gives u the option to lower It 1 inch or 2 inches
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Is this a lowering kit?
Hey man great vid I learned something today
good info cheers
Why not just pull the upper triple tree?
" I'm looking at 5-1/2"....
That's what she said!
Kidding aside great video!
So no comparable rear spring / shock “upgrade “ at the same time 🤔
So it looks like this is no different to install than the "Drop In" kit ? Do you know of a difference in the kits themselves?
Great video i would have liked to see the before and after looks. I'm thinking about the same thing for my eleatra glide classic.
You didn't lower only tighten
great video. more worried about doing it, Thought I would only have to take nuts off.
Wow 1hr job on my shovelhead low rider.
Who wants to buy a 15 road king.? I bought it cause I’m getting old for comfort but the damn things to hard to work on. Except the engine. I did that myself. But that’s the only thing easier than my shovelhead