Should Climbers Train Legs? | 5 Exercises for Climbing
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- ↡ Training Legs for Climbing? ↡
Leg training can divide opinion in climbing. There’s no doubt that leg exercises will improve your overall strength and mobility, but how does this translate to climbing - and is it worth the effort?
I asked Paddy for five leg exercises that would improve my climbing and bouldering level.
He’s convinced me that stronger and more stable leg muscles should translate directly to better hip positioning on the wall, more strength for rock-overs and slabs, and more tension through my feet. I can definitely see the benefits from conditioning your lower body for climbing, and these exercises are all possible without any special equipment.
I think that leg exercises should be part of any effective training programme for bouldering, and it looks like they’re already part of many climbing athlete training regimes.
Watch Paddy’s tips and see what you think.
Footage Credits ↡
I used footage from some of my favourite climbers to create this video. These are all fantastic vlogs, tutorials and short films.
Eric Karlsson → / opuz1337
Emil Abrahamson → www.instagram....
Epic TV → • Raw Power Vs Flawless ...
Bouldering Bobat → • How to ONE ARM pull up
Shauna Coxsey → www.instagram....
Robbie Phillips → • LEG TRAINING FOR “MAGI...
Nina Williams → www.instagram....
Bouldering Dabrats → • Climbing Tips: Placing...
Climbing Tech Tips → • Climbing Movement: 11....
Mani the Monkey → • Rock Climbing Techniqu...
Power Climbing Company → • Movement Skills for Cl...
Paddy's gym in Leeds ↡
The Crunch Gym → www.crunchgym.c...
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Love this video, Nathan! Great editing as always and I think you built a pretty good case for why leg training is neglected but is quite important in climbing! I'm starting to find out just how beneficial the kettlebell swings have been for my climbing and overall body conditioning. Dynamic movement has always been my nemesis so I'm going to add the broad jump to my regiment to see how it helps! Would love to see a follow up video after you've been doing Paddy's program for awhile too!
I'm so glad you found it useful! I'm sure a lot of people will be hard to convince, but personally I think there's a good reason to believe that a little bit of conditioning goes a long way for hip stability and being able to push through your feet. I love the broad jumps (especially as no equipment is needed) - I hope they give you a little boost for dynos! I'm training for a sport climbing trip at the moment using a lot of Paddy's exercises, I'll have to mention that when I create my trip video :)
@@NathanBetts I agree, coming from a weight lifting background, I've always loved leg/lower body exercises but now there's a purpose, other than just muscle gains!
Interesting, informative, well produced. Good work Nathan.
(Although, great, another load of important exercises I don’t have time to do! 😬)
Very kind, thank you! I sometimes just dedicate twenty minutes at the end of an indoor session to do two or three of the exercises. Sometimes I squeeze in the squats and bridges as part of my warm up, or between hangboard sets :)
Another great vid. TONS of useful information in here for training the legs. Going to try this at the gym asap.
Hope it helps - have fun! :)
Great video! I thought I was the only one who saw an influx of pro climbers training their lower body all of a sudden haha These are great tips. I've been doing split squats on and off, but they've felt different every time. Sometimes I feel the burn and sometimes not. The way Paddy describes how to do it properly makes perfect sense - I know I'll feel the burn every time now haha Great video production of course as well! :)
Yeah, I'm still seeing more and more lower body stuff now! Thank you :)
Nice video mate. I was thinking about making a similar one myself. So many people neglect "leg day" for climbing not knowing how much of an important role it plays. We should make a video together one time. Would make for some interesting content 👌
Cheers! It's definitely not covered very often. Your channel looks ace, lots for me to watch on there over the next few days! Where are you based usually?
@@NathanBetts I'm only based Newcastle way. Noticed a few of your vids in the Manchester depot which is not to far for me. Could even head outdoors although the weather isn't ideal at the moment like haha
Nice one Nathan!!! another great vid and some very good points about training legs... If only I wasn't too busy training my fingers 😂
Cheers pal! Yep, I've found it useful to squeeze it in somewhere if you can!
Jazz in the background. Nice.
Very useful. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
If you pause at 14:40 for example, you can see his knees cave in. Not sure why is that?
Hey Nathan, I was wondering what the music in the beginning you used was called?
I’m sure it was from Musicbed by artist named Layup. I’ll have a better look tomorrow if you can’t find it :)
Ok but what's the song at 8:15
Okay I'll bite. I think the problem with this sort of thing is that it has great potential to become a distraction from the most important aspect of climbing improvement; actually going climbing. If you want to improve your slab climbing; climb on slabs. If you want to improve tension on steep ground, climb on a steep board. By all means squeeze in an exercise or two at the end of a session, but if you're doing longer sessions and compromising your recovery or preparation for your next climbing session then it's going to have a net negative effect.
Shauna Coxsey, to take one of your pro examples, can get away with longer and more frequent leg sessions because a) she has a simply massive training history, b) she's been climbing since she could walk and therefore has a huge level of skill built, c) she trains 7/8 hours a day, and d) she's not training for outdoor climbing...she's training for jumpy comp bouldering and speed!
I really like the 75 / 25 rule; I.e spend 75% of your time with your climbing shoes on, with the other 25% for everything else (including hangboarding). Doing these within a hang board session, followed by a rest day, is the best approach in my opinion if you really want to train legs.
Appreciate your input!
I think I definitely agree on a lot of your points, but I don't think they contradict my broad opinion that lower body conditioning can be a useful part of training for climbing. I do also think it is more relevant to indoor climbing, where route-setters aim to test difficult whole body movements.
I didn't really cover how to integrate this type of training, but personally I spent around 40 minutes at the end of a climbing session on four or five conditioning exercises (which could include legs). I don't think this detracts from the quality of climbing sessions.
My understanding is that leg conditioning exercises will help 1) injury prevention 2) stability and hip control 3) single leg strength. Granted, you can get similar benefits from climbing drills, but this is a targeted and structured way to achieve this.
To a lot of people, it feels like lower body exercises are heresy. Yet in nearly every other pro sport, we see athletes cross-training with strength exercises. There's a reason why Shauna would be spending training energy on squats - though I appreciate everyone has different needs.
I really don’t think it’s this deep? The video is literally just giving you information about some simple leg exercises that you can do to improve some leg strength. That’s it.
‘I’ll bite’ seems to imply you’re somewhat angry at this video? I didn’t recall Nathan or paddy saying to do this over actually climbing to get better?
@@NathanBetts Yes I'm not contradicting you, I do agree leg work has a place in an overall training program.
My point is more that you need to be disciplined, and avoid being distracted from the skill development climbing requires. It's great, for example, that you have 40 minutes to spare for these exercises at the end of a session but many won't have that luxury; what I wouldn't therefore want is for someone to cut their climbing session short to do this stuff if their time is limited.
Another point on cross-training; I totally agree it's beneficial for climbers, but again it needs to be without sacrifice to the central activity. You also need to consider seasonality. I personally almost completely cut out weight training of any sort during the main climbing season, and add it back in summer when it's too hot for bouldering.
Maybe you need a video on programming!
@@MF-CLIMB Just offering a (slightly) different perspective! Nathan has said a few times he thinks his won't be a popular view, so like a fish biting the fisherman's line, I took him up on that point...no anger here :-)
It's heavily implied in the video that they're saying these exercises are important and I'm simply advocating care in how they're added. Another point I'd mention is I think it is a mistake to try to emulate what pro climbers do. Just yesterday I was chatting to a chap at the wall, been climbing 7/8 months and really getting into it and one of the first things he said was he had watched a lot of UA-cam videos! People set a lot of store by what they see on here so I think being sceptical is important. Back to the pro climber point, if a beginner or intermediate climber tried to do what Shauna does it'd break them! When what they should really be doing is just climbing. And that's my point; don't get distracted from the enormous level of skill acquisition climbing requires.
@@Nick12Bradley Ah yep, I get your point. I think that's kind of why I didn't get into the programming part, as like you say, that can vary a lot on seasonality, training age and time.
Instead it's more like "here's a qualified PT talking you through five minimal equipment leg exercises that are beneficial, you can add them in to your training." I don't have the knowledge to offer much programming advice - I know Lattice did one recently that I guess you might have seen?
I tend to train five times a week, but honestly the 'just climb' approach ended up with finger and elbow injuries. That's maybe why I tend to use cross-training maybe more than most.
I'm missing the pistol squat