WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts! Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT Hope you all enjoyed this first part! If you happen to have climbed above V5 already but feel there's something missing from your climbing repertoire, then perhaps have a look at the workouts in this video as well :-) Otherwise you can stay tuned for the next two episodes dropping over the coming weeks. Also, if you can’t see the workouts in the app yet, make sure you’ve updated the app! Cheers all!
Can we all give it up for Sam? For being so brave to learn publicly and let us all learn from his progression! Thanks a lot for being such a generous student!
For dynamic climbing - it’s pretty hard to just aim to “never stop”. I learned to do dynamic climbing better by “chunking”. I would try to look at climbs in sections of 1-3 move chunks, where there’s no stopping motion. This allows me to stop and think about how to use momentum in the middle of a climb. This made the learning process a lot more manageable. It’s very easy now to do anything up to flash grade in one continuous motion without ever freezing, but I didn’t get to this end goal by immediately aiming for it. You automate it by focusing on chunks.
Oh, this is perfect. I started climbing about 10 months ago, and am getting into 6B-ish territory, but this has some super useful tips that really hit home. The dynamic movement drills look super useful, and it's good to hear that I really shouldn't expect to be hangboarding bodyweight at this point but that regressed versions still are useful. I'm not really one for following a program with my climbing, but relatively simple drills like these are super helpful!
That's great to hear! In my experience not a lot of people are great at following programs, and if so it's often good to pick and choose some exercises that you like and perform them when the motivation is there
This is a FANTASTIC mini-course with the emphasis strongly on what's important, not just for beginners, but basically everyone not super advanced. Working movement, technique, and efficiency. Strength will come over time, but learning to climb properly and climb well is soooo much more important. Amazing stuff Emil!
I am about 4 months into bouldering and this will help a lot for me as I'm at about V4 level. My strength is high but my technique is lacking significantly! Awesome video.
I'm not casting doubt on people's progress, but seeing hundreds of V5 routes in videos or photos on the internet I can honestly say that V5 seems to be one of the most widely varied difficulties for indoor bouldering.
Cant wait for the next installment of this series! Started climbing 2 months ago and just got my first v5 today (then proceeded to fall off a v4 repeatedly)
I started climbing after having my second baby. I wanted something fun to do that was just for me and also doubled as exercise, and I fell in love with it! In a year, my max indoor grade was V7, but average was definitely more in the V5/6 range. I’m now expecting my third baby and out of the bouldering game for awhile (though still top roping here and there!), but I’m excited to utilize these tips in a few months when I get back into at it!
One thing to remember about v3-v5 too is that at your local crag, these lines are likely to get the most polished with most broken holds and most chalk deposits before a good rain. Don’t despise that classic v3 just because it might be your warm up, clean it up , dial in your beta . you can seriously zap your trip outside by trying blow through easy , popular boulders.
@@benwasson9715 popular spots outdoors may get more difficult with more use due to chalk being built up on the holds, hold being worn and broken, etc. You may become discouraged because you are having trouble with an "easy climb" but that shouldnt discourage you. Keep the right mindset and do everything you can to prepare.
I would also add that depending on your gym your climbing grade might be (sometimes highly) exaggerated. Not only because gym grades can be softer - but also because outside climbing is a different beast to some degree… from quality of holds to even finding them during the climb, to weather/air condition etc.
Something very important to progress: look better climber movements and try to understand why it works better. In some case beginner simply does not have enough strength to reproduce and it takes very long time to get it but in some other cases it is mainly a question of mobility and this aspect is way more easy and quick to get better with stretching and mobility exercise program. The main thing in my opinion is hips mobility, it opens to so many great moves and new climbing sensations in some particular moves.
After climbing for almost 2 months, I was able to climb my first 2 V5s!!! ^w^ I was so happy when I did both! I’m not strong at all, but I was still able to do them :3 I’m still around V2-V3 for the most part, but occasionally I can do a V4 or V5 (usually takes multiple session to get them though)
I did my first V5 in 3-4 months, but it was highly specific to my style and I used strength to skip some moves. But after that I got stuck because my technique was pretty bad. Now (9 months in) I've been having more consistent success on V5s and have made some progress on V6s.
I am in the exact same situation as you! Haha first v5 in 4 months and now after 10 months consistently doing v5’s but unable to top v6 (getting super close tho)
yea did my first in around 6 months now at 9 months ive done around 30 and only a couple v6s, definitely the first grade thats been really tough to get past
This is honestly very impressive as a guide, very well thought out, I can just tell that even as somebody who's never climbed, though I do have a background in making and understanding videos and guides. Getting a beginner on to demonstrate it is also a rather smart idea, as sometimes coaches don't put enough emphasis on demonstrating the effectiveness of their teachings.
I top rope or autobelay exclusively, with a little traversing, but there’s clearly a huge amount to learn here for climbers of all types. Looking forward to putting some of this into practice.
Evidently I have incredible route setters because there’s almost always a V0-V2 range route that’s some type of no hands traverse on a slab and really short routes that are basically just trying to make you climb dynamically. So what you’re saying is built in. And this is just a little area inside of a larger gym complex and a third of it is top rope at my university. Fraction of the size of a normal climbing gym and the setters are also students (mix of former comp kids and people that discovered climbing in college). There is a V1 right now literally called “Look Ma No Hands!”
Thanks for the great video! Looking forward to the next chapter! I started climbing 10 months ago and two other drills I found really helpful were the hover hands to train maintaining good body tension (especially in overhangs) and the kilter board to get better at dead point. Otherwise doing some top rope helps to force efficient climbing. I have been stuck at V5 for a little while now but I still feel like I am improving and the range of different blocs I can succeed on is broadening.
kinda same as you, climb like 10mons ago. going v6 is pretty hard, i think most important is strength if wanna be a v6 climber. But recently got injury because training too hard. My tips is don't pushing too hard if you already have a lot of section in a week. My schedule before injury was Monday: climb Tuesday : shoulder and some iso excise in regular gym Wednesday :climb Thursday:same as Tuesday Friday: rest Saturday moon/killyerboard Sunday rest/ same as Tuesday I feel as a beginner V0-V7, the volume should not access 5day/week Otherwise the chances of getting injury would probably very high like me
Nice video, with some fun looking exercises! Been thinking of starting a program now that ive been climbing for 9 months, so def try this for a few weeks. Hope it can help me break the v8 barrier!
Great video, within my first year I managed to get a couple of v6's and got very close to getting a first v7 now half a year later I tend to finish most of the v6's and v7's in my gym.
Great video, thank you! I already climbed quite a few v5/6c and sometimes, when it fits my strengths or/and I can abuse my height (I'm 1,99m), I do a 6c+/7a. But I'm sure I still can profit a lot from these exercises and will try them! Thrilled for the v5 to v8 video though! 😀
Started climbing recently. I started climbing on v3s/v4s and my goal is to be able to climb all the boulders in my gym in 5 years. I need all the climbing speed running tips I can get. Lol.
I took the plunge and signed up for Magnus's course, and I don't regret it one bit. It's actually way more about wisdom and technique than physical training (surprisingly enough). Meanwhile, we all know that when it comes to hardcore training, Emil is the man!
Thanks for the video! I started climbing in 2023's september and now I am a 6c (V5) climber. I train 2 times a week and it become my favorite sport. I really enjoy it.
Started climbing about 6 months ago and got to V8 boulders and 5.13 routes and videos like yours helped me so much. I did everything you talked about in this video, can confirm it works.
A long wingspan is super valuable. Higher center of gravity isn’t always helpful but it’s not a huge disadvantage or anything Honestly most body types have a particular style that’s well suited to it. Big comp-style dynamic moves are easier for taller people, but a chimney or roof problem might favor the 5’0 climber who can fit into really small spaces. Unlike something like a team sport that has very specialized movements, climbing requires such a wide variety of movement styles and approaches that there’s something that suits everyone (though you should always train your weak points!)
So how quickly should you be progressing? I'm pushing V6 after about 5 months and I have no idea how far along I am or if I'm going slow or if I could be going faster
Hi all, can I check for the dynamic drills. Do I need to focus on have good foot placing too? I tried doing the drill but my shoes keep knocking against the foot holds and generating a lot of noise.
v5 should be hard, climbing v5-v7 should require 3 years to send properly without injury, im 40 yrs old and have been climbing for near 2 years, dont rush! Currently working v6-v7
Age, athletic background especially backgrounds with transferable skills beyond strength (parkour, gymnastics, martial arts etc) and time you have to spend also play a huge role. I’m a college student and we have a small climbing center. I suspect that the people here progress faster than average (for adults) due to typically being young and having more free time (or at least the flexibility to move around our schedules). And it’s not just because of people coming in with a ton of strength and having bad technique
As a V5-V6 climber in less than a year (started august 2022 and achieve my first lead 6C in May 2023 and earlier for bouldering) I'm happy to see that all of your exercices and tips are the same that I apply at almost every bouldering sessions haha. I should do more of the no hand slabs tho because foot placement is not my strenght. I already did almost every day your hangboard protocol and it works like a charm, especially for preventing finger injuries :D Looking forward to see your next course for intermediate and advanced climbers ! I really like your work , keep it up Emil, your a gem to the climbing community !
Lead 6c is not the same as bouldering 6C, its different scales and lead 6c is more comparable in difficulty to a 6A boulder, its much easier. Weird how you managed to get to 6C boulder before 6c lead.
@@TheBanana202 Dunno, the grades in France are by colors in most climbing gym. In my bouldering gym I'm around 6c-7a (red grade) and mostly flashed them or got the boulders in few attempts. yesterday I was able to do the next color (black grade) which is around 7a+/7b for the first time. I'm around 6c-7a in all of the bouldering gym I go but in lead it's always more difficult and it's not because of my endurance but more because often they like to put crimps and I'm terrible at them, I prefer sloppers (even if my wrists are fcked)
I started climbing 4 months ago and I’m working on my first 6c+ any advice specifically on strengthening the finger and their stamina it seems to be my biggest weakness
You just started climbing 4 months ago, your issue isn't your strength it's your technique. It just feels like it's your strength and stamina because...well it partially is, but mostly you're just climbing super inefficiently. Work on using your feet and hips to take as much weight off your hands at all times and do moves with as little effort through your hands as possible.
Finger injuries suck, no denying that. Both me and my brother suffered through loads of them the first year or two, quite frustrating to say the least. I can't speak for your situation, but more often than not it gets way better after a year or two if you're prone to finger injuries. You could also have a go at the "no-hang" protocol I've tried for finger health (look at one of my more popular videos for context), I asked physios about it and it should be alright for newer climbers.
Outdoor is what the study was based on that I mentioned in the beginning, and I planned this to be relative to outdoor grades, or atleast my view on the average V5 around the world. Depends though, if you climb in sandbagged areas with only micro-edges, training micro-edge hangs will help more than this
It's been more than 20 years for One Piece with hundreds and hundreds of manga and episodes, you can spoil if you talk about the latest chapters/episodes but not something happened years ago, be serious. This chapter was released in 2005-2008 for the anime and 2004-2005 for the manga dude
All these seem so strange because of the grade. In climb in gym in Paris where there are no font grades given, so my only experience with font grades themselves... So for me V5 without mich finger strength seems errrr, quite unreasonnable. Or worst, the hopes of climbing of font slab v5 (or even v2...) while mostly climbing in the gym... Anyway having done one F7A, and still mostly climbing 6A-Cs in font, I have no idea where that puts me on those educationnal videos, but I'm guessing doing pull up negatives wont do much for me^^
The grade is meaningless, it's more about your experience and skill level. If you know your weaknesses just be mindful and work on them. Develop good movement habits and technique.
someone who can do pull ups with +55kg; 1-3-5, 1-4-5 on campus; +40kg in 20mm for 5 seconds, 5s of front lever, weighing 80kg and being 180cm; Should you be able to climb which grade of boulder?
I'd say, with VERY rough estimates: Pull up strength: enough for V13 Front lever strength: enough for V13 Finger strength: enough for V10/11 What will matter the most is how you combine your strengths and use them on the wall. If you want to focus on training I would probably focus a bit on campus rungs to even your strengths out a bit, shoot for doing 1-5-8!
![[프로를 이겨라] #8. 카메라 울렁증 극복😂 샷 감이 살아나는 제발 투 퍼트팀](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4epI-P3DLKM/mqdefault.jpg)
WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts!
Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT
Hope you all enjoyed this first part! If you happen to have climbed above V5 already but feel there's something missing from your climbing repertoire, then perhaps have a look at the workouts in this video as well :-) Otherwise you can stay tuned for the next two episodes dropping over the coming weeks.
Also, if you can’t see the workouts in the app yet, make sure you’ve updated the app!
Cheers all!
Can we all give it up for Sam? For being so brave to learn publicly and let us all learn from his progression! Thanks a lot for being such a generous student!
Nothing but love for this comment
He killed that no hands slab
For dynamic climbing - it’s pretty hard to just aim to “never stop”. I learned to do dynamic climbing better by “chunking”. I would try to look at climbs in sections of 1-3 move chunks, where there’s no stopping motion. This allows me to stop and think about how to use momentum in the middle of a climb. This made the learning process a lot more manageable.
It’s very easy now to do anything up to flash grade in one continuous motion without ever freezing, but I didn’t get to this end goal by immediately aiming for it. You automate it by focusing on chunks.
Emil really made a 20min youtube video and an entire training plan just to flex his pacman socks
I'm more than happy you noticed
I also have those socks!!!!!!
Oh, this is perfect. I started climbing about 10 months ago, and am getting into 6B-ish territory, but this has some super useful tips that really hit home. The dynamic movement drills look super useful, and it's good to hear that I really shouldn't expect to be hangboarding bodyweight at this point but that regressed versions still are useful. I'm not really one for following a program with my climbing, but relatively simple drills like these are super helpful!
That's great to hear! In my experience not a lot of people are great at following programs, and if so it's often good to pick and choose some exercises that you like and perform them when the motivation is there
I'm so glad that you are not only talking about technique, but strength also!
This is a FANTASTIC mini-course with the emphasis strongly on what's important, not just for beginners, but basically everyone not super advanced. Working movement, technique, and efficiency. Strength will come over time, but learning to climb properly and climb well is soooo much more important. Amazing stuff Emil!
I am about 4 months into bouldering and this will help a lot for me as I'm at about V4 level. My strength is high but my technique is lacking significantly! Awesome video.
As someone who is trying to send gym V5s consistently, this is really helpful. Thanks so much!
Both Emil and catalyst climbing releasing training videos on the same day 😮
What did we do to deserve this!?
I'm not casting doubt on people's progress, but seeing hundreds of V5 routes in videos or photos on the internet I can honestly say that V5 seems to be one of the most widely varied difficulties for indoor bouldering.
Cant wait for the next installment of this series! Started climbing 2 months ago and just got my first v5 today (then proceeded to fall off a v4 repeatedly)
I started climbing after having my second baby. I wanted something fun to do that was just for me and also doubled as exercise, and I fell in love with it! In a year, my max indoor grade was V7, but average was definitely more in the V5/6 range. I’m now expecting my third baby and out of the bouldering game for awhile (though still top roping here and there!), but I’m excited to utilize these tips in a few months when I get back into at it!
W mom, your kids are in good hands!
You managed V7 on the side in one year after having your 2nd child… damn, you are probably she-hulk in disguise ^^ hope to get there sooner or later
One thing to remember about v3-v5 too is that at your local crag, these lines are likely to get the most polished with most broken holds and most chalk deposits before a good rain. Don’t despise that classic v3 just because it might be your warm up, clean it up , dial in your beta . you can seriously zap your trip outside by trying blow through easy , popular boulders.
can you rephrase in English
@@benwasson9715 popular spots outdoors may get more difficult with more use due to chalk being built up on the holds, hold being worn and broken, etc. You may become discouraged because you are having trouble with an "easy climb" but that shouldnt discourage you. Keep the right mindset and do everything you can to prepare.
I would also add that depending on your gym your climbing grade might be (sometimes highly) exaggerated. Not only because gym grades can be softer - but also because outside climbing is a different beast to some degree… from quality of holds to even finding them during the climb, to weather/air condition etc.
The timing couldn't be more precise, this is exactly what I am looking for!!!
Something very important to progress: look better climber movements and try to understand why it works better. In some case beginner simply does not have enough strength to reproduce and it takes very long time to get it but in some other cases it is mainly a question of mobility and this aspect is way more easy and quick to get better with stretching and mobility exercise program. The main thing in my opinion is hips mobility, it opens to so many great moves and new climbing sensations in some particular moves.
After climbing for almost 2 months, I was able to climb my first 2 V5s!!! ^w^
I was so happy when I did both! I’m not strong at all, but I was still able to do them :3
I’m still around V2-V3 for the most part, but occasionally I can do a V4 or V5 (usually takes multiple session to get them though)
keep going bro
I did my first V5 in 3-4 months, but it was highly specific to my style and I used strength to skip some moves. But after that I got stuck because my technique was pretty bad. Now (9 months in) I've been having more consistent success on V5s and have made some progress on V6s.
I am in the exact same situation as you! Haha first v5 in 4 months and now after 10 months consistently doing v5’s but unable to top v6 (getting super close tho)
yea did my first in around 6 months now at 9 months ive done around 30 and only a couple v6s, definitely the first grade thats been really tough to get past
This is honestly very impressive as a guide, very well thought out, I can just tell that even as somebody who's never climbed, though I do have a background in making and understanding videos and guides. Getting a beginner on to demonstrate it is also a rather smart idea, as sometimes coaches don't put enough emphasis on demonstrating the effectiveness of their teachings.
Awesome video! can't wait for the V5 to V8 video!
Great video! I started climbing a year ago and yesterday did my first V6!
Strong work! That’s really fast
Thanks! your videos really inspired me!@@EmilAbrahamsson
@@EmilAbrahamssonI just finished my first year and have done v8 slab in rental shoes
Being young is fun
V0->V6 in 13 months on 225lbs weight. Im sooo happy
That's awesome progress hell yeah man
Invaluable help and not only for climbing. Thank you for sharing the insights. Peace.
Glad to see Cordelia again! Missed you!
Brilliant video, such helpful tips and exercises
... and that's how you start a thriving family business 😊.
I will try these exercises in tonight's session ;) Thanks a lot.
I top rope or autobelay exclusively, with a little traversing, but there’s clearly a huge amount to learn here for climbers of all types. Looking forward to putting some of this into practice.
Evidently I have incredible route setters because there’s almost always a V0-V2 range route that’s some type of no hands traverse on a slab and really short routes that are basically just trying to make you climb dynamically. So what you’re saying is built in.
And this is just a little area inside of a larger gym complex and a third of it is top rope at my university. Fraction of the size of a normal climbing gym and the setters are also students (mix of former comp kids and people that discovered climbing in college).
There is a V1 right now literally called “Look Ma No Hands!”
Great video! I think I can really benefit from your suggestions. Can't wait to give this all a try.
Thanks for the great video! Looking forward to the next chapter!
I started climbing 10 months ago and two other drills I found really helpful were the hover hands to train maintaining good body tension (especially in overhangs) and the kilter board to get better at dead point.
Otherwise doing some top rope helps to force efficient climbing.
I have been stuck at V5 for a little while now but I still feel like I am improving and the range of different blocs I can succeed on is broadening.
kinda same as you, climb like 10mons ago. going v6 is pretty hard, i think most important is strength if wanna be a v6 climber. But recently got injury because training too hard. My tips is don't pushing too hard if you already have a lot of section in a week.
My schedule before injury was Monday: climb
Tuesday : shoulder and some iso excise in regular gym
Wednesday :climb
Thursday:same as Tuesday
Friday: rest
Saturday moon/killyerboard
Sunday rest/ same as Tuesday
I feel as a beginner V0-V7, the volume should not access 5day/week
Otherwise the chances of getting injury would probably very high like me
My climbing gym only has a 1-7 rating scale. I can never tell what my climbing level is on the V-Grade system.
thank you sm!! i kept looking for a vid like this but couldn’t find any that’s this specific
Nice video, with some fun looking exercises! Been thinking of starting a program now that ive been climbing for 9 months, so def try this for a few weeks. Hope it can help me break the v8 barrier!
Great video, within my first year I managed to get a couple of v6's and got very close to getting a first v7 now half a year later I tend to finish most of the v6's and v7's in my gym.
What a great video. Currently climbing V5 / 6C - Have to get the 7a till end of the year. Hope to get it with your video support. :)
🗽 "Be like rubber".... love it! ♥
And for the intermediate with one limb pogo (means one limb not on the holds).
.
If you are tall and you can find a fitting balance route you can do it the first day haha, big difference between strength and hight/balance routes
at 3:17 referenced one piece, Had to subscribe right away
Great training tips and awesome videography! Thank you!
Cheers mate, appreciate that :-)
Great video, thank you! I already climbed quite a few v5/6c and sometimes, when it fits my strengths or/and I can abuse my height (I'm 1,99m), I do a 6c+/7a. But I'm sure I still can profit a lot from these exercises and will try them! Thrilled for the v5 to v8 video though! 😀
it's really interesting, I will try it out today during my session
Awesome video, I'll give these a try
Started climbing recently. I started climbing on v3s/v4s and my goal is to be able to climb all the boulders in my gym in 5 years. I need all the climbing speed running tips I can get. Lol.
Magnus's bouldering course has been awfully quiet since this video dropped
My brother in Christ, this video dropped fifteen minutes before you commented 🙏
@@Duimspijkerthats the joke
20 min vid, he watched it on x2 speed no doubt... @@Duimspijker
I took the plunge and signed up for Magnus's course, and I don't regret it one bit. It's actually way more about wisdom and technique than physical training (surprisingly enough). Meanwhile, we all know that when it comes to hardcore training, Emil is the man!
@@adamhaas141 Do you think the course has anything more to offer than what you'd be able to search on youtube?
Have done two v5s in my first three months of climbing. But feel like my gym are light on the grades sometimes, still hype when I did them tho ;)
Thanks for the video!
I started climbing in 2023's september and now I am a 6c (V5) climber. I train 2 times a week and it become my favorite sport. I really enjoy it.
Such an informative and great video!
Video went up 4 minutes ago. You commented 2 minutes ago. The video is 20 minutes long. Hmm.
Started climbing about 6 months ago and got to V8 boulders and 5.13 routes and videos like yours helped me so much. I did everything you talked about in this video, can confirm it works.
I climbed my first v5 this week and have been climbing for 2 month now.
Alright Luffy decking Ussopp was totally unnecessary but I greatly appreciated it
The king of Sweden told me to subscribe.
Another great video❤
Thanks
I dont know why but when I started climbing I went only dynamic movement and did almost no static.
Is being tall with long arms and legs but a short torso a big disadvantage for climbing?
A long wingspan is super valuable. Higher center of gravity isn’t always helpful but it’s not a huge disadvantage or anything
Honestly most body types have a particular style that’s well suited to it. Big comp-style dynamic moves are easier for taller people, but a chimney or roof problem might favor the 5’0 climber who can fit into really small spaces.
Unlike something like a team sport that has very specialized movements, climbing requires such a wide variety of movement styles and approaches that there’s something that suits everyone (though you should always train your weak points!)
Been plateaued at V4 for 3 years after getting there under 2 years
I’ve been climbing for around 10 months now and am at around V5ish, is that good?
Very good vid!
As a person caught up in One Piece, that punch hit hard.
So how quickly should you be progressing? I'm pushing V6 after about 5 months and I have no idea how far along I am or if I'm going slow or if I could be going faster
ive been climbing for around 3-4 months and im around V5 level im struggling with climbing V6, any tips?
Hi all, can I check for the dynamic drills. Do I need to focus on have good foot placing too? I tried doing the drill but my shoes keep knocking against the foot holds and generating a lot of noise.
The one piece reference just made me subscribe
Haha I'll make sure to bring more of my anime/manga love into the channel
Can we get a tutorial on how you style your hair?
Went from v0 to v5-v6 in three months is it possible for me to go professional
( im 15)
Was not expecting to see Luffy in Emil's videos lol
Does it rly take 2.5 years for v5? I’m at a v3-v4 after going for around 2 months
So is there part 2?
I have been climbing for 8months and got two 7a's
In 1 year I’ve done 7a in Fontainebleau en 6c+ inside
I've been bouldering for 2,5 months and my lvl is around 6b is that good ? I think it's quite good but i'm not sûre about climbing grades
dr k music goes hard
v5 should be hard, climbing v5-v7 should require 3 years to send properly without injury, im 40 yrs old and have been climbing for near 2 years, dont rush! Currently working v6-v7
Age, athletic background especially backgrounds with transferable skills beyond strength (parkour, gymnastics, martial arts etc) and time you have to spend also play a huge role.
I’m a college student and we have a small climbing center. I suspect that the people here progress faster than average (for adults) due to typically being young and having more free time (or at least the flexibility to move around our schedules). And it’s not just because of people coming in with a ton of strength and having bad technique
I’m gonna make my friend who can only climb v3 watch this video!
Thanks! Hope they get something out of it :-)
Where did you climb with Samuel in the video? The boulders looked really fun!
It's at BLX, which is located inside Mall of Scandinavia
Also, Sam looks almost identical to Welsh DnB DJ High Contrast, doppelgangers 😂
As a V5-V6 climber in less than a year (started august 2022 and achieve my first lead 6C in May 2023 and earlier for bouldering) I'm happy to see that all of your exercices and tips are the same that I apply at almost every bouldering sessions haha.
I should do more of the no hand slabs tho because foot placement is not my strenght.
I already did almost every day your hangboard protocol and it works like a charm, especially for preventing finger injuries :D
Looking forward to see your next course for intermediate and advanced climbers ! I really like your work , keep it up Emil, your a gem to the climbing community !
Lead 6c is not the same as bouldering 6C, its different scales and lead 6c is more comparable in difficulty to a 6A boulder, its much easier. Weird how you managed to get to 6C boulder before 6c lead.
@@TheBanana202 Dunno, the grades in France are by colors in most climbing gym. In my bouldering gym I'm around 6c-7a (red grade) and mostly flashed them or got the boulders in few attempts. yesterday I was able to do the next color (black grade) which is around 7a+/7b for the first time. I'm around 6c-7a in all of the bouldering gym I go but in lead it's always more difficult and it's not because of my endurance but more because often they like to put crimps and I'm terrible at them, I prefer sloppers (even if my wrists are fcked)
I started climbing 4 months ago and I’m working on my first 6c+ any advice specifically on strengthening the finger and their stamina it seems to be my biggest weakness
You just started climbing 4 months ago, your issue isn't your strength it's your technique. It just feels like it's your strength and stamina because...well it partially is, but mostly you're just climbing super inefficiently. Work on using your feet and hips to take as much weight off your hands at all times and do moves with as little effort through your hands as possible.
Start climbing 2 month ago and do v6 and v7
What is the name of the boulder that Daniel Woods ans Jimmy Web are working on at 8.3 ?
Lucid dreaming!
I have those socks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did I see some big island footy from a recent trip? oooo
Haha keen eye. It's from a few months back, and part of a bigger story I'm trying to make (I hope..)
The One Piece edit made me better
When can I watch the second part?
Both the second and third part are planned to be released in October! Part two should be in 5-6 days :-)
Nice, cant wait
App? Bye Emil? Sold!
First year of climbing... injured my fingers twice which kept me from climbing for months on end. Thinking of just giving up :(
Finger injuries suck, no denying that. Both me and my brother suffered through loads of them the first year or two, quite frustrating to say the least.
I can't speak for your situation, but more often than not it gets way better after a year or two if you're prone to finger injuries. You could also have a go at the "no-hang" protocol I've tried for finger health (look at one of my more popular videos for context), I asked physios about it and it should be alright for newer climbers.
the one piece clip, my man is cultured
such a sad scene tooo
Is this relative to outdoor or indoor grades?
Outdoor is what the study was based on that I mentioned in the beginning, and I planned this to be relative to outdoor grades, or atleast my view on the average V5 around the world. Depends though, if you climb in sandbagged areas with only micro-edges, training micro-edge hangs will help more than this
@@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks! that's super helpful 😄
gomu gomu no rock climbing
Great
Pls do a video on how anyone can climb v8
imagine someone who just started one piece watching this video and randomly getting part of water 7 spoiled
My sincerest-ish apologies to those people
the statute of limitation on spoilers has passed for that surely haha
It's been more than 20 years for One Piece with hundreds and hundreds of manga and episodes, you can spoil if you talk about the latest chapters/episodes but not something happened years ago, be serious. This chapter was released in 2005-2008 for the anime and 2004-2005 for the manga dude
That's literally me, why the hell is Luffy fighting Usopp... (don't answer)
@@47no knew it would happen
These videos always scare me because I'm like "I got v5 in a year, my gym must have soft grades 😰😰😰😰😰😰"
im 13 and got to 6c in 3 months is that good?
yes damn
All these seem so strange because of the grade. In climb in gym in Paris where there are no font grades given, so my only experience with font grades themselves...
So for me V5 without mich finger strength seems errrr, quite unreasonnable. Or worst, the hopes of climbing of font slab v5 (or even v2...) while mostly climbing in the gym...
Anyway having done one F7A, and still mostly climbing 6A-Cs in font, I have no idea where that puts me on those educationnal videos, but I'm guessing doing pull up negatives wont do much for me^^
The grade is meaningless, it's more about your experience and skill level. If you know your weaknesses just be mindful and work on them. Develop good movement habits and technique.
someone who can do pull ups with +55kg; 1-3-5, 1-4-5 on campus; +40kg in 20mm for 5 seconds, 5s of front lever, weighing 80kg and being 180cm; Should you be able to climb which grade of boulder?
V5-V6 I guess
I would say around V9.
Depends on your skill. Should have enough strength for projecting V8
I'd say, with VERY rough estimates:
Pull up strength: enough for V13
Front lever strength: enough for V13
Finger strength: enough for V10/11
What will matter the most is how you combine your strengths and use them on the wall.
If you want to focus on training I would probably focus a bit on campus rungs to even your strengths out a bit, shoot for doing 1-5-8!
hype
Oh how fast I clicked on this video 😂
Nice to hear mate, I really hope you like it! Put quite a bit of time into it 😅
when I saw Luffy, I knew I was in the right place
i started climbing 1 month ago, i don't know much about grading lvl but did my first V5 in bouldering last week, is that good?
damn 2,5 years for 6C im one months in and im on 6A+-6B