How to Maximize Your First Year of Climbing

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  • Опубліковано 8 чер 2024
  • WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts!
    Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT
    Timestamps:
    0:00 Why you should listen to this
    1:17 Where to find the workouts
    2:26 Dynamic Climbing
    3:50 No Hands Slab
    4:56 Pull-up Negative
    5:50 Basic Grip Engagement
    7:17 Efficiency Training
    9:04 Beginner tries the exercises
    My gear:
    Favorite shoes
    MadRock Drone madrock.com/collections/shoes...
    MadRock Drone CS madrock.com/collections/shoes...
    Chalk Bucket
    madrock.com/collections/chalk...
    Chalk bag
    madrock.com/collections/chalk...
    Everything shot on Sony A7SIII.
    PATREON LINK HERE: / emilabrahamsson
    Any support is incredibly welcomed and appreciated. You all make the content happen!
    Instagram:
    / emil_abrahamsson_
    / cordiclimbs

КОМЕНТАРІ • 166

  • @EmilAbrahamsson
    @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +12

    WIN a 1-on-1 Training Chat with Me & Crimpd+ For LIFE by Logging My NEW Workouts!
    Download Now ▶︎ Apple: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiS // Android: l.linklyhq.com/l/1uBiT
    Hope you all enjoyed this first part! If you happen to have climbed above V5 already but feel there's something missing from your climbing repertoire, then perhaps have a look at the workouts in this video as well :-) Otherwise you can stay tuned for the next two episodes dropping over the coming weeks.
    Also, if you can’t see the workouts in the app yet, make sure you’ve updated the app!
    Cheers all!

  • @maarten541
    @maarten541 7 місяців тому +297

    Can we all give it up for Sam? For being so brave to learn publicly and let us all learn from his progression! Thanks a lot for being such a generous student!

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +19

      Nothing but love for this comment

    • @ratcomedy
      @ratcomedy 5 місяців тому +5

      He killed that no hands slab

  • @derekxiaoEvanescentBliss
    @derekxiaoEvanescentBliss 7 місяців тому +51

    For dynamic climbing - it’s pretty hard to just aim to “never stop”. I learned to do dynamic climbing better by “chunking”. I would try to look at climbs in sections of 1-3 move chunks, where there’s no stopping motion. This allows me to stop and think about how to use momentum in the middle of a climb. This made the learning process a lot more manageable.
    It’s very easy now to do anything up to flash grade in one continuous motion without ever freezing, but I didn’t get to this end goal by immediately aiming for it. You automate it by focusing on chunks.

  • @jacobsmith_climb
    @jacobsmith_climb 7 місяців тому +45

    Emil really made a 20min youtube video and an entire training plan just to flex his pacman socks

  • @shaneh7519
    @shaneh7519 7 місяців тому +47

    Both Emil and catalyst climbing releasing training videos on the same day 😮
    What did we do to deserve this!?

  • @Ora_Lin
    @Ora_Lin 7 місяців тому +15

    Cant wait for the next installment of this series! Started climbing 2 months ago and just got my first v5 today (then proceeded to fall off a v4 repeatedly)

  • @eleanorshuttleworth9346
    @eleanorshuttleworth9346 7 місяців тому +2

    I'm so glad that you are not only talking about technique, but strength also!

  • @Kraaketaer
    @Kraaketaer 7 місяців тому +58

    Oh, this is perfect. I started climbing about 10 months ago, and am getting into 6B-ish territory, but this has some super useful tips that really hit home. The dynamic movement drills look super useful, and it's good to hear that I really shouldn't expect to be hangboarding bodyweight at this point but that regressed versions still are useful. I'm not really one for following a program with my climbing, but relatively simple drills like these are super helpful!

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +10

      That's great to hear! In my experience not a lot of people are great at following programs, and if so it's often good to pick and choose some exercises that you like and perform them when the motivation is there

  • @ComputerManDanMiller
    @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому +9

    This is a FANTASTIC mini-course with the emphasis strongly on what's important, not just for beginners, but basically everyone not super advanced. Working movement, technique, and efficiency. Strength will come over time, but learning to climb properly and climb well is soooo much more important. Amazing stuff Emil!

  • @neonipun
    @neonipun 7 місяців тому +1

    The timing couldn't be more precise, this is exactly what I am looking for!!!

  • @InfamousMS
    @InfamousMS 7 місяців тому +4

    As someone who is trying to send gym V5s consistently, this is really helpful. Thanks so much!

  • @Jugglets
    @Jugglets 7 місяців тому +10

    I am about 4 months into bouldering and this will help a lot for me as I'm at about V4 level. My strength is high but my technique is lacking significantly! Awesome video.

  • @ludakriss9094
    @ludakriss9094 3 місяці тому

    Invaluable help and not only for climbing. Thank you for sharing the insights. Peace.

  • @Swenese
    @Swenese 7 місяців тому +1

    Nice video, with some fun looking exercises! Been thinking of starting a program now that ive been climbing for 9 months, so def try this for a few weeks. Hope it can help me break the v8 barrier!

  • @paulgaras2606
    @paulgaras2606 7 місяців тому +11

    One thing to remember about v3-v5 too is that at your local crag, these lines are likely to get the most polished with most broken holds and most chalk deposits before a good rain. Don’t despise that classic v3 just because it might be your warm up, clean it up , dial in your beta . you can seriously zap your trip outside by trying blow through easy , popular boulders.

    • @benwasson9715
      @benwasson9715 6 місяців тому +6

      can you rephrase in English

    • @dylanboyd6147
      @dylanboyd6147 6 місяців тому +4

      @@benwasson9715 popular spots outdoors may get more difficult with more use due to chalk being built up on the holds, hold being worn and broken, etc. You may become discouraged because you are having trouble with an "easy climb" but that shouldnt discourage you. Keep the right mindset and do everything you can to prepare.

    • @florianneumann9441
      @florianneumann9441 3 місяці тому

      I would also add that depending on your gym your climbing grade might be (sometimes highly) exaggerated. Not only because gym grades can be softer - but also because outside climbing is a different beast to some degree… from quality of holds to even finding them during the climb, to weather/air condition etc.

  • @RyzawaVT
    @RyzawaVT 3 місяці тому

    This is honestly very impressive as a guide, very well thought out, I can just tell that even as somebody who's never climbed, though I do have a background in making and understanding videos and guides. Getting a beginner on to demonstrate it is also a rather smart idea, as sometimes coaches don't put enough emphasis on demonstrating the effectiveness of their teachings.

  • @DylanMatto
    @DylanMatto 7 місяців тому +2

    Awesome video! can't wait for the V5 to V8 video!

  • @vandaleyez2
    @vandaleyez2 7 місяців тому +1

    Great training tips and awesome videography! Thank you!

  • @adwardosa5575
    @adwardosa5575 7 місяців тому +192

    Magnus's bouldering course has been awfully quiet since this video dropped

    • @Duimspijker
      @Duimspijker 7 місяців тому +17

      My brother in Christ, this video dropped fifteen minutes before you commented 🙏

    • @bigalbbq8483
      @bigalbbq8483 7 місяців тому +27

      @@Duimspijkerthats the joke

    • @gavinmactarnaghan
      @gavinmactarnaghan 7 місяців тому

      20 min vid, he watched it on x2 speed no doubt... @@Duimspijker

    • @adamhaas141
      @adamhaas141 7 місяців тому +17

      I took the plunge and signed up for Magnus's course, and I don't regret it one bit. It's actually way more about wisdom and technique than physical training (surprisingly enough). Meanwhile, we all know that when it comes to hardcore training, Emil is the man!

    • @choojunwyng8028
      @choojunwyng8028 7 місяців тому

      @@adamhaas141 Do you think the course has anything more to offer than what you'd be able to search on youtube?

  • @dawalrus2861
    @dawalrus2861 7 місяців тому

    Awesome video, I'll give these a try

  • @yanickchrist2719
    @yanickchrist2719 7 місяців тому

    What a great video. Currently climbing V5 / 6C - Have to get the 7a till end of the year. Hope to get it with your video support. :)

  • @nicolasgauthier5359
    @nicolasgauthier5359 7 місяців тому +1

    Thanks for the great video! Looking forward to the next chapter!
    I started climbing 10 months ago and two other drills I found really helpful were the hover hands to train maintaining good body tension (especially in overhangs) and the kilter board to get better at dead point.
    Otherwise doing some top rope helps to force efficient climbing.
    I have been stuck at V5 for a little while now but I still feel like I am improving and the range of different blocs I can succeed on is broadening.

    • @fung4206
      @fung4206 7 місяців тому +1

      kinda same as you, climb like 10mons ago. going v6 is pretty hard, i think most important is strength if wanna be a v6 climber. But recently got injury because training too hard. My tips is don't pushing too hard if you already have a lot of section in a week.
      My schedule before injury was Monday: climb
      Tuesday : shoulder and some iso excise in regular gym
      Wednesday :climb
      Thursday:same as Tuesday
      Friday: rest
      Saturday moon/killyerboard
      Sunday rest/ same as Tuesday
      I feel as a beginner V0-V7, the volume should not access 5day/week
      Otherwise the chances of getting injury would probably very high like me

  • @distantsahmurai
    @distantsahmurai 7 місяців тому

    Glad to see Cordelia again! Missed you!

  • @itsrealstone
    @itsrealstone 7 місяців тому

    it's really interesting, I will try it out today during my session

  • @kavali6320
    @kavali6320 7 місяців тому

    ... and that's how you start a thriving family business 😊.
    I will try these exercises in tonight's session ;) Thanks a lot.

  • @jonnes__4657
    @jonnes__4657 7 місяців тому

    🗽 "Be like rubber".... love it! ♥
    And for the intermediate with one limb pogo (means one limb not on the holds).
    .

  • @Duimspijker
    @Duimspijker 7 місяців тому

    Another great video❤

  • @DaMeowster
    @DaMeowster 7 місяців тому +6

    Great video! I started climbing a year ago and yesterday did my first V6!

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +2

      Strong work! That’s really fast

    • @DaMeowster
      @DaMeowster 7 місяців тому

      Thanks! your videos really inspired me!@@EmilAbrahamsson

    • @Miles26545
      @Miles26545 7 місяців тому

      @@EmilAbrahamssonI just finished my first year and have done v8 slab in rental shoes
      Being young is fun

  • @jaimseygirl2594
    @jaimseygirl2594 7 місяців тому +11

    I started climbing after having my second baby. I wanted something fun to do that was just for me and also doubled as exercise, and I fell in love with it! In a year, my max indoor grade was V7, but average was definitely more in the V5/6 range. I’m now expecting my third baby and out of the bouldering game for awhile (though still top roping here and there!), but I’m excited to utilize these tips in a few months when I get back into at it!

    • @dylanboyd6147
      @dylanboyd6147 6 місяців тому +2

      W mom, your kids are in good hands!

    • @florianneumann9441
      @florianneumann9441 3 місяці тому

      You managed V7 on the side in one year after having your 2nd child… damn, you are probably she-hulk in disguise ^^ hope to get there sooner or later

  • @bucketts1208
    @bucketts1208 5 місяців тому

    Very good vid!

  • @Jan.Bouldering
    @Jan.Bouldering 7 місяців тому +1

    Great video, thank you! I already climbed quite a few v5/6c and sometimes, when it fits my strengths or/and I can abuse my height (I'm 1,99m), I do a 6c+/7a. But I'm sure I still can profit a lot from these exercises and will try them! Thrilled for the v5 to v8 video though! 😀

  • @MidasCat
    @MidasCat 7 місяців тому +9

    After climbing for almost 2 months, I was able to climb my first 2 V5s!!! ^w^
    I was so happy when I did both! I’m not strong at all, but I was still able to do them :3
    I’m still around V2-V3 for the most part, but occasionally I can do a V4 or V5 (usually takes multiple session to get them though)

  • @pascaljutras178
    @pascaljutras178 7 місяців тому +3

    Something very important to progress: look better climber movements and try to understand why it works better. In some case beginner simply does not have enough strength to reproduce and it takes very long time to get it but in some other cases it is mainly a question of mobility and this aspect is way more easy and quick to get better with stretching and mobility exercise program. The main thing in my opinion is hips mobility, it opens to so many great moves and new climbing sensations in some particular moves.

  • @bastyo
    @bastyo 7 місяців тому +4

    My climbing gym only has a 1-7 rating scale. I can never tell what my climbing level is on the V-Grade system.

  • @snokbol1
    @snokbol1 3 місяці тому

    Great video, within my first year I managed to get a couple of v6's and got very close to getting a first v7 now half a year later I tend to finish most of the v6's and v7's in my gym.

  • @ShinMadero
    @ShinMadero 7 місяців тому +13

    I did my first V5 in 3-4 months, but it was highly specific to my style and I used strength to skip some moves. But after that I got stuck because my technique was pretty bad. Now (9 months in) I've been having more consistent success on V5s and have made some progress on V6s.

    • @lmp8156
      @lmp8156 7 місяців тому +1

      I am in the exact same situation as you! Haha first v5 in 4 months and now after 10 months consistently doing v5’s but unable to top v6 (getting super close tho)

    • @skoot2629
      @skoot2629 7 місяців тому

      yea did my first in around 6 months now at 9 months ive done around 30 and only a couple v6s, definitely the first grade thats been really tough to get past

  • @johnfrancke1943
    @johnfrancke1943 7 місяців тому +3

    Such an informative and great video!

    • @eurekaflows
      @eurekaflows 7 місяців тому +2

      Video went up 4 minutes ago. You commented 2 minutes ago. The video is 20 minutes long. Hmm.

  • @1OTDM
    @1OTDM 7 місяців тому +1

    I'm not casting doubt on people's progress, but seeing hundreds of V5 routes in videos or photos on the internet I can honestly say that V5 seems to be one of the most widely varied difficulties for indoor bouldering.

  • @aimo4thewin619
    @aimo4thewin619 7 місяців тому +1

    If you are tall and you can find a fitting balance route you can do it the first day haha, big difference between strength and hight/balance routes

  • @carlosbantaya09
    @carlosbantaya09 7 місяців тому

    at 3:17 referenced one piece, Had to subscribe right away

  • @aZeee
    @aZeee 7 місяців тому

    Have done two v5s in my first three months of climbing. But feel like my gym are light on the grades sometimes, still hype when I did them tho ;)

  • @ironmooss1946
    @ironmooss1946 7 місяців тому

    Started climbing about 6 months ago and got to V8 boulders and 5.13 routes and videos like yours helped me so much. I did everything you talked about in this video, can confirm it works.

  • @abbalos
    @abbalos 7 місяців тому +1

    Been plateaued at V4 for 3 years after getting there under 2 years

  • @Bogo0112
    @Bogo0112 7 місяців тому

    As a person caught up in One Piece, that punch hit hard.

  • @santiagotokashiki
    @santiagotokashiki Місяць тому

    dr k music goes hard

  • @bodhinatuurlijk3299
    @bodhinatuurlijk3299 3 місяці тому

    In 1 year I’ve done 7a in Fontainebleau en 6c+ inside

  • @matthewrdale
    @matthewrdale 7 місяців тому

    Can we get a tutorial on how you style your hair?

  • @breakingnormsproductions6852
    @breakingnormsproductions6852 7 місяців тому

    Where did you climb with Samuel in the video? The boulders looked really fun!

    • @frelli177
      @frelli177 7 місяців тому

      It's at BLX, which is located inside Mall of Scandinavia

  • @nvisalli9
    @nvisalli9 7 місяців тому

    The one piece reference just made me subscribe

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому

      Haha I'll make sure to bring more of my anime/manga love into the channel

  • @andylien4789
    @andylien4789 7 місяців тому

    Was not expecting to see Luffy in Emil's videos lol

  • @2freet
    @2freet 4 місяці тому

    So is there part 2?

  • @ptckclmn7882
    @ptckclmn7882 7 місяців тому

    I’ve been climbing for around 10 months now and am at around V5ish, is that good?

  • @danielmansour6772
    @danielmansour6772 7 місяців тому

    I started climbing 4 months ago and I’m working on my first 6c+ any advice specifically on strengthening the finger and their stamina it seems to be my biggest weakness

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому

      You just started climbing 4 months ago, your issue isn't your strength it's your technique. It just feels like it's your strength and stamina because...well it partially is, but mostly you're just climbing super inefficiently. Work on using your feet and hips to take as much weight off your hands at all times and do moves with as little effort through your hands as possible.

  • @matevannay8971
    @matevannay8971 7 місяців тому

    Pls do a video on how anyone can climb v8

  • @SquidInkSpaghetti
    @SquidInkSpaghetti 7 місяців тому

    ive been climbing for around 3-4 months and im around V5 level im struggling with climbing V6, any tips?

  • @kylangauthier6072
    @kylangauthier6072 7 місяців тому

    Start climbing 2 month ago and do v6 and v7

  • @soldacool6330
    @soldacool6330 3 місяці тому +1

    I dont know why but when I started climbing I went only dynamic movement and did almost no static.

  • @tylerheitmann1758
    @tylerheitmann1758 7 місяців тому

    Did I see some big island footy from a recent trip? oooo

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому

      Haha keen eye. It's from a few months back, and part of a bigger story I'm trying to make (I hope..)

  • @tomh.6379
    @tomh.6379 7 місяців тому

    I have those socks!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • @gigabumm
    @gigabumm 3 місяці тому

    Thanks for the video!
    I started climbing in 2023's september and now I am a 6c (V5) climber. I train 2 times a week and it become my favorite sport. I really enjoy it.

  • @roowf4685
    @roowf4685 7 місяців тому

    hype

  • @ryoma5426
    @ryoma5426 7 місяців тому +1

    I’m gonna make my friend who can only climb v3 watch this video!

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому

      Thanks! Hope they get something out of it :-)

  • @Louis.slmn93
    @Louis.slmn93 7 місяців тому

    I've been bouldering for 2,5 months and my lvl is around 6b is that good ? I think it's quite good but i'm not sûre about climbing grades

  • @iacobbarbu5128
    @iacobbarbu5128 7 місяців тому

    What is the name of the boulder that Daniel Woods ans Jimmy Web are working on at 8.3 ?

  • @sivanbendor2891
    @sivanbendor2891 Місяць тому

    Does it rly take 2.5 years for v5? I’m at a v3-v4 after going for around 2 months

  • @PoochyMishaps
    @PoochyMishaps 7 місяців тому

    App? Bye Emil? Sold!

  • @Lucroz94
    @Lucroz94 7 місяців тому

    As a V5-V6 climber in less than a year (started august 2022 and achieve my first lead 6C in May 2023 and earlier for bouldering) I'm happy to see that all of your exercices and tips are the same that I apply at almost every bouldering sessions haha.
    I should do more of the no hand slabs tho because foot placement is not my strenght.
    I already did almost every day your hangboard protocol and it works like a charm, especially for preventing finger injuries :D
    Looking forward to see your next course for intermediate and advanced climbers ! I really like your work , keep it up Emil, your a gem to the climbing community !

    • @TheBanana202
      @TheBanana202 7 місяців тому

      Lead 6c is not the same as bouldering 6C, its different scales and lead 6c is more comparable in difficulty to a 6A boulder, its much easier. Weird how you managed to get to 6C boulder before 6c lead.

    • @Lucroz94
      @Lucroz94 7 місяців тому

      @@TheBanana202 Dunno, the grades in France are by colors in most climbing gym. In my bouldering gym I'm around 6c-7a (red grade) and mostly flashed them or got the boulders in few attempts. yesterday I was able to do the next color (black grade) which is around 7a+/7b for the first time. I'm around 6c-7a in all of the bouldering gym I go but in lead it's always more difficult and it's not because of my endurance but more because often they like to put crimps and I'm terrible at them, I prefer sloppers (even if my wrists are fcked)

  • @seighart90
    @seighart90 7 місяців тому

    gomu gomu no rock climbing

  • @moritz210
    @moritz210 7 місяців тому

    When can I watch the second part?

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому

      Both the second and third part are planned to be released in October! Part two should be in 5-6 days :-)

    • @moritz210
      @moritz210 7 місяців тому

      Nice, cant wait

  • @stephendaedalus7841
    @stephendaedalus7841 7 місяців тому

    Is this relative to outdoor or indoor grades?

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +1

      Outdoor is what the study was based on that I mentioned in the beginning, and I planned this to be relative to outdoor grades, or atleast my view on the average V5 around the world. Depends though, if you climb in sandbagged areas with only micro-edges, training micro-edge hangs will help more than this

    • @stephendaedalus7841
      @stephendaedalus7841 7 місяців тому

      @@EmilAbrahamsson Thanks! that's super helpful 😄

  • @Jim2point0
    @Jim2point0 25 днів тому

    First year of climbing... injured my fingers twice which kept me from climbing for months on end. Thinking of just giving up :(

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  25 днів тому

      Finger injuries suck, no denying that. Both me and my brother suffered through loads of them the first year or two, quite frustrating to say the least.
      I can't speak for your situation, but more often than not it gets way better after a year or two if you're prone to finger injuries. You could also have a go at the "no-hang" protocol I've tried for finger health (look at one of my more popular videos for context), I asked physios about it and it should be alright for newer climbers.

  • @shinraninja
    @shinraninja 7 місяців тому

    a friend of mine went to v5 in 3 months

  • @peilin1218
    @peilin1218 7 місяців тому

    LOVE the Luffy reference!

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +1

      I take a lot of my inspiration as a climber from the straw hats and Naruto

    • @peilin1218
      @peilin1218 7 місяців тому

      @@EmilAbrahamsson would love to know if there's any take from attack on titan lol

  • @juliussloth4665
    @juliussloth4665 7 місяців тому +2

    the one piece clip, my man is cultured

  • @karimalsayed8973
    @karimalsayed8973 7 місяців тому +1

    Oh how fast I clicked on this video 😂

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому

      Nice to hear mate, I really hope you like it! Put quite a bit of time into it 😅

  • @Matthew14456
    @Matthew14456 7 місяців тому

    im 13 and got to 6c in 3 months is that good?

    • @N2ptune
      @N2ptune 6 місяців тому

      yes damn

  • @ratzertherat
    @ratzertherat 4 місяці тому

    I wish I can climb twice a week but the nearest climbing gym is half an hour away

  • @nolimbsjohnny
    @nolimbsjohnny 7 місяців тому +3

    imagine someone who just started one piece watching this video and randomly getting part of water 7 spoiled

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +2

      My sincerest-ish apologies to those people

    • @goldenducky12
      @goldenducky12 7 місяців тому

      the statute of limitation on spoilers has passed for that surely haha

    • @Lucroz94
      @Lucroz94 7 місяців тому

      It's been more than 20 years for One Piece with hundreds and hundreds of manga and episodes, you can spoil if you talk about the latest chapters/episodes but not something happened years ago, be serious. This chapter was released in 2005-2008 for the anime and 2004-2005 for the manga dude

    • @47no
      @47no 7 місяців тому

      That's literally me, why the hell is Luffy fighting Usopp... (don't answer)

    • @nolimbsjohnny
      @nolimbsjohnny 7 місяців тому

      @@47no knew it would happen

  • @corumj1962
    @corumj1962 7 місяців тому +2

    All these seem so strange because of the grade. In climb in gym in Paris where there are no font grades given, so my only experience with font grades themselves...
    So for me V5 without mich finger strength seems errrr, quite unreasonnable. Or worst, the hopes of climbing of font slab v5 (or even v2...) while mostly climbing in the gym...
    Anyway having done one F7A, and still mostly climbing 6A-Cs in font, I have no idea where that puts me on those educationnal videos, but I'm guessing doing pull up negatives wont do much for me^^

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому

      The grade is meaningless, it's more about your experience and skill level. If you know your weaknesses just be mindful and work on them. Develop good movement habits and technique.

  • @SuperFatboy5000
    @SuperFatboy5000 7 місяців тому

    I have been stuck in v4 like a year and a half ;-;

  • @ryandodd8941
    @ryandodd8941 6 місяців тому

    how can i get better at climbing? “climb with no hands”

  • @eduardoramos3592
    @eduardoramos3592 7 місяців тому

    someone who can do pull ups with +55kg; 1-3-5, 1-4-5 on campus; +40kg in 20mm for 5 seconds, 5s of front lever, weighing 80kg and being 180cm; Should you be able to climb which grade of boulder?

    • @viniciuscollaco
      @viniciuscollaco 7 місяців тому

      V5-V6 I guess

    • @potentialbouldercrusher9159
      @potentialbouldercrusher9159 7 місяців тому

      I would say around V9.

    • @ddollerup
      @ddollerup 7 місяців тому

      Depends on your skill. Should have enough strength for projecting V8

    • @EmilAbrahamsson
      @EmilAbrahamsson  7 місяців тому +2

      I'd say, with VERY rough estimates:
      Pull up strength: enough for V13
      Front lever strength: enough for V13
      Finger strength: enough for V10/11
      What will matter the most is how you combine your strengths and use them on the wall.
      If you want to focus on training I would probably focus a bit on campus rungs to even your strengths out a bit, shoot for doing 1-5-8!

  • @kingandrew5486
    @kingandrew5486 5 місяців тому

    I got to v7 in my first month of climbing 😭

  • @33seconds48
    @33seconds48 7 місяців тому

    I climbed for the first time back in february of this year, i didn't go to the gym before and still have only gone to one less than 5 times. Now, half a year after i climbed for the first time i have done 3 black difficulty climbs at my climbing gym, or around 6b-7a, and really enjoy climbing. I don't know if i learn fast, or if it's something else but compared to the 2.5 years to get to the same point you said in the video that's pretty fast, anyone know why?

  • @heyjdhere
    @heyjdhere 2 місяці тому

    i started climbing 1 month ago, i don't know much about grading lvl but did my first V5 in bouldering last week, is that good?

  • @ComputerManDanMiller
    @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому +3

    I love how people are terrified to fall while climbing slab, then will casually jump down from the top without thinking twice. It's not quite the same but unless you have really big holds sticking out under you, it basically is.

    • @da14a49
      @da14a49 7 місяців тому +1

      No one's terrified of falling from slab simply because of the height. It's the grazes and skin grater effect the holds/wall can have that is scary

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому

      @da14a49 quite often those aren't actually real concerns, you just feel like they are. The majority of falls on slab you don't hit or touch anything, it just feels like you might so it's scary.

    • @da14a49
      @da14a49 7 місяців тому +1

      @@ComputerManDanMiller That's probably true though the bad scrape does happen from time to time (which resets my confidence)!

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому +1

      @da14a49 that's what makes it so hard! It only takes one bad scrape to scar you mentally for like 100 more tries.

    • @MrKangorilla
      @MrKangorilla 7 місяців тому

      Theres a different between jumping and falling. One is a controlled choice, the other is often an uncontrolled surprise. It's not about the height at all

  • @OWENANIME-xm5ne
    @OWENANIME-xm5ne 5 днів тому

    blud im on my 9th week and ive done 4 v6's

  • @frog2091
    @frog2091 Місяць тому

    These videos always scare me because I'm like "I got v5 in a year, my gym must have soft grades 😰😰😰😰😰😰"

  • @ericfw
    @ericfw 7 місяців тому

    Made v8 in 4 mouths, did v5 in first ever setion with no experience. Progression is crazy

  • @alfrednygaard670
    @alfrednygaard670 4 місяці тому

    Do you watch one piece?

  • @Chadwich
    @Chadwich 4 місяці тому

    2:25 to skip all the talking and actually get to the content

  • @benbyram308
    @benbyram308 2 місяці тому

    this is great

  • @gingobingo1567
    @gingobingo1567 7 місяців тому

    ONE PIECE

  • @asdfasdf-mi1vi
    @asdfasdf-mi1vi 7 місяців тому

    Too early

  • @euerhenning5780
    @euerhenning5780 7 місяців тому +1

    Pretty wild to me that it takes most people so long, I haven't even climbed for 2 years and climbed a couple 7a+ outdoors (and moonboard benchmarks) and while I knew i was quite fast in my progress, I never thought that it takes that much longer of a time for most people.

  • @Ptitviaud1337
    @Ptitviaud1337 7 місяців тому +1

    Background : climbing coach for a local club, been training for about 8 years and climbing for twice as much.
    Dynamic climbing : meh. I mean yeah for sure, but learning to static is also key. You may be right however that beginner's problems oftenly reward more static climbing than dynoeing.
    No hands slab : waste of time, in my opinion. Beginners will already be climbing on slabs quite a lot, since this profile is less physically selective. I'm not convinced that no handing stuff actually helps you getting better at climbing because you will mostly be climbing froglike, which is not always efficient. It's super funny though.
    Pull-up negative : Not a super use of your time. Of course you'll build pulling strength. But you could just go climb in overhangs more oftenly. Works better and is more fun, and actually makes you go in that stuff. I find that usually, it's not that beginners actually lack the strength (well, sometimes they do. but not always), but are impressed by overhangs.
    Basic grip engagement : complete waste of time. But the reasoning behind is sound, beginners sometimes fail to understand the hold. Hangboarding will absolutely not solve that, since it's not multi-oriented : you learn how to engage in a perfectly controlled and always the same environnement. Which is, specifically, not climbing. It's way better to make people climb so that they understand the criticity of vector forces and how to do the most out of holds.
    Efficiency training : holy shit, what a great way to put it. This is dope. I did exactly that yesterday on a coordination boulder with strangers. The boulder involved a full 180° of the body to get a left hand on a sideway jug, and you also needed to step left-right-left again with feets to make it work. We (climbers having it done, or being close) coached someone from scratch from the boulder to focus on "one thing more for the next go". First, do the 180°, without getting the foot anywhere. Then get the left foot. Then get the left hand. Then also change left foot for the right. And then move the left foot out again ! And it worked, so, so well. Instead of "just trying harder", focusing on one specific thing to improve is ultra efficient. We probably all do that, kind of, but spelling it out will really improve everything. Thank you sir !

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому

      While I don't disagree with some of your points, criticizing without offering any alternatives doesn't contribute much.

    • @Ptitviaud1337
      @Ptitviaud1337 7 місяців тому +1

      @@ComputerManDanMiller I did a very long answer to your post, to give somes alternatives or more explaining, and it...disappeared. I'll try to write it again.

    • @Ptitviaud1337
      @Ptitviaud1337 7 місяців тому +1

      @@ComputerManDanMiller So ! I'm back, to answer again. I thought i had given some alternatives, but i'll get this more in detail. I'll give a more global opinion on what you "should" do during your beginner phase, and that may adress some points that Emil touched within his video.
      As a beginner, you should dwelve into climbing in a lot of different style, to make sure you approach as many different qualities as possible. Don't care too much on tackling weaknesses already, because you dont actually know what those are, yet.
      The most important thing to learn as a beginner is that you should try to go climbing with intention. The worst session is the one that has no focus, no commitment to anything. Learning how to shape a session to aim for a specific goal will give you the most progression. By the way, the goal "having fun" is a perfectly suitable goal for a session.
      So, how could we, roughly, separate climbing into different areas ;
      -body ; I'm talking about finger strength, core, pulling strength, power endurance, etc.
      -positionning/proprioception
      -techniques (it's NOT positionning. So, heel hooks, dynos, drop knee, that sort of stuff that doesn't come up so naturally)
      -styles (type of holds or angle of the wall)
      -mental (fear of falling, commitment, having fun...)
      -tactics (redpointing hard something. flashing. onsighting. reorganizing...)
      Of course, those areas actually kinda overlap with each other. But that's fine.
      When you go on a session, you should have an idea of what do you want to tackle within this session. And as a beginner, you will be better by trying to tap into all categories, and all subcategories, througout the year.
      Now lets go back to emil's point ;
      Dynamic climbing : yeah, kinda. But it depends on beginner's background and some climbers will already be climbing dynamically. So instead of that, the goal would be to aim for a diversity of movement choices. I'm not a fan of drills (climbing a problem as statically as possible, then climbing a problem as dynamically as possible), and prefer that climbers go into climbs that reward different approaches. The best way to do this is to climbg as a group, in different styles, and the diversity of the group will help everyone try un-preferred approaches.
      The rest i stand by what i said.
      Now, how can you structure your sessions in order to tackle things ?
      Well, remember that focusing a whole session on one thing only is pretty hard. So, instead of doing that, you might want to focus your session on maybe 2 or 3 things. Techniques can be done within warm up. you dont need to drill them, you just need to know they exist and when they will be most likely efficient (hey, there is a really high big hold quite far away laterally, in an overhang. Probably a good idea to try a heelhook here). Physical stuff should be done when you're fresh, so right after warm up. Positionning can be done even when not so fresh anymore. Mental can be done anytime, but it's exhausting in another way, so doing it fresh is usually better. Tactics can usually be done while doing something else.
      I'll give some example sessions that will probably suit a lot of beginners.
      "I'm weak, and the overhang is looming over me in a nasty way, i don't like going there"
      -warm-up for 15min, including climbing.
      -go in boulder or routes in overhangs between 20 to 45°. Aim for onsight/flash level. Take rests accordingly so that the quality of work is GOOD (for routes, this might be 15/20 min rest !). The aim is to stay there for 60 to 90minutes.
      -Finish your session by stepping down one step on difficulty, and in less than 20° overhang. Total session around 2h30. 2h is fine too.
      "My god, i don't really know why there are footholds anyway, my foot slips everytime on those"
      -warm-up for 15min, including climbing. Your goal while warming up is to step as precisely as possible on every hold. Aim with your big toe.
      -go in boulder or routes in slabs or vertical. Aim for flash or "within a session" difficulty. Focus your attention on getting the feet right, not sending or crimping the hell out of hands. Stay there for about 1h.
      -go into slightly overhangs, betwenn 10 to 20°, in flash or onsight level. Try to feel the difference is foothold size and still use them as best as you can. Whole session, max 2h, it gets boring.
      "I dont get redpointing. I either flash everything i try, or i just cant do it no matter how i try it."
      -warm up for 15 min, including climbing.
      -go into boulders, preferably. If you only have routes, well, do that. Choose a climb hard for you : something you can't flash or harder. Apply Emil's approach of "getting one thing better", AT. EACH. TRY. You want to be going again in the climb with a precise a concrete idea of you could have done better, and actually focus on doing this thing better (not sending !). Exercise best done in group, so that you can all discuss the next try. If you do send the boulder, that's great. If you have no idea anymore on what yo could do better, change boulder.
      -do the whole session like that, lowering difficulty througout the session so that you always stay within "fast redpoint" difficulty, say 3 to 10 tries, depending on length of the climb. Start the session on physical terrain and move towards dynos, slabs or else as you progress.
      Whole session can be betweend 2 and 3 hours.

    • @ComputerManDanMiller
      @ComputerManDanMiller 7 місяців тому

      @Ptitviaud1337 Amazing comment. This is all fantastic advice and I appreciate the obvious time and effort you put into this. I would push back slightly on the idea that trying a climb intentionally static or dynamically isn't super useful. Especially as a beginner I think it's a very very useful tool to force yourself to do climbs in unintuitive ways, because your intuition will probably be wrong a lot of the time. Even more advanced climbers can benefit from forcing themselves to climb things in ways they wouldn't consider otherwise, it's surprising what you can learn from it.

    • @Ptitviaud1337
      @Ptitviaud1337 7 місяців тому +1

      Yes, that's what i intended to say : drilling this type of move isn't effective. It gets you better at drilling, not climbing. That's why it's way better to confront yourself to boulders or routes that are different because, yes, good setters will force you to make those moves. So you'll have to do them anyway, and in good context. The group effect on this topic is amazing, because you can have a group of climbers with different qualities actually switching roles within a very short time window.
      On climb 1, climber A, will show climber B the whole use of body on this dyno. On climb 2, climber B will show the delicate movement of hips to climber A within the slab. Good thing for everyone, and this way you can mix up people with sometimes quite different levels in overall climbing.@@ComputerManDanMiller

  • @UNLIMITED_WMSEEDS
    @UNLIMITED_WMSEEDS 28 днів тому

    Not to flex but in my first year I got to v6 😏

  • @faintedmemo
    @faintedmemo 6 місяців тому

    Kinda weird to say being too strong can be a bad thing for beginners and then immediately plug your app to get stronger.

  • @ryenschimerman2127
    @ryenschimerman2127 7 місяців тому

    I generally hate "influencer" culture because it contributes nothing but "content." Given that I can count on one hand the number of products I've been "influenced to buy - keep it up and maybe I'll have to use two hands.

  • @user-bd4vu1oo1t
    @user-bd4vu1oo1t 4 місяці тому

    Worst ux ive ever seen in an app, jesus christ