1954 Chevrolet 235 engine rebuild.
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- Опубліковано 1 січ 2019
- I cover the teardown and rebuild of a 1954 Chevrolet 235ci "Stovebolt" engine. This engine was bored 0.060" over which increased it's displacement to 244 cubic inches. The head was rebuilt with hardened valve seats, stainless steel valves, new guides and springs. New aluminum pistons were installed along with new rings, a new 264 3/4 race cam with new solid lifters and pushrods. A new oil pump was also installed. The crank was turned 0.010" on the main journals and 0.020" on the rod journals, new main and rod bearings were fitted to the correct oversize. All seals, gaskets and plugs were also installed. This is a brief overview of the rebuild and break-in run.
Link to engine break in without music: • Chevy 235 Blue Flame b...
Link to engine install series: www.youtube.com/watch?v=O1_OT...
Link to the engine installation into the 49 Chevy truck series - • 1949 Chevy 3100 restor...
The series is 15 parts.
Link to engine break in without music: • Chevy 235 Blue Flame b...
Thanks for watching.
Dave - Авто та транспорт
Boy, does that bring back memories. I had a 54' in high school (graduated in 1970), and it needed an overhaul. Did all the work myself except the machining. Pistons were fine, honed the cylinders though, valve job, don't remember what all I replaced. Although I did buy a JC Whitney "racing" cam for it, or so they said it was. Got a used Offenhauser dual carb intake and home made split exhaust. Ugliest exhaust you've ever seen, but it worked. You should have seen me trying to find the hardware to hook it up. Ended up using flex pipe for the over-sized rear collector, and Cherry Bomb mufflers. Did it ever cackle when I backed off the throttle. When my mom found out what I was doing she said, "All you're going to do is burn more gas." Well....she wasn't wrong. ;) Thanks God for the under a buck gas back then. We all called it the Pumpkin, because of the color. Fun....fun....fun!
Good story, thanks for watching
This video does bring back some memories. When I was a child growing up my parents had a 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air with the 235 cubic inch in line 6 cylinder engine. The in line 6 was the standard engine for this car. The new small block V-8 engine was an option at extra cost.
Inspiring! I have my dads' 54, it was the first vehicle I drove as a kid on the farm. Still have the farm too!
0It's deluxe five window, hood ornament, floating drivers seat, floor shift. I replaced the 3rd member when I was a kid, I snapped the pinion shaft spraying weed killer on winter wheat, so yes it got used as a work vehicle. Despite all that, the body is remarkably good, I've wanted to get it restored to original, I'm 72, and started driving that pickup when I was 6. Good old days! Rick Aznoe
Great story R, thanks for watching.
Driving at 6, spoken like a true farm kid. My sister's kids were driving big tractors as kids, it gave me gray hairs. No one was ever hurt.
I am currently rebuilding a 1959 235 for my 1948 Fleetmaster. As I 'learn' on this build I thank you for your video and credits at the end for additional resources. I hope to have it done by spring! Thanks again for your video.
Were the intakes the same color as the block or were they grey?
@@christophermcglothlen5707 Thanks Christopher. On my original 216 the intake and exhaust were the same color as the head and block but that may be due to whatever paint they "may" have been originally had long ago burnt off.
You'll see all kinds of color coordinations on these engines these days, I say paint then manifolds anyway you want as long as you like it.
Im just really thankful for this because my dad left me his to finish and its been very difficult being my lack of knowledge mixed with the pain if loss i miss him and felt very connected to your video and this project is the same as my dads. Thank you so very much
My condolences to you and your family Elizabeth. The pain of his loss will subside over time and be replaced with many small joys when a happenstance triggers one of the many great memories you'll keep of him. That truck may be one of those triggers. My Chevy brings back many small joyful memories of departed loved ones of ours. And at 3 score and a quarter more we find those small joyful reminders to be quite numerous and highly welcomed....... We hope to see them again one day.
I've done quite a few vlogs of me stumbling and bumbling along learning about my old trucks while keeping them running, perhaps you'll find some useful. If you have a question post it or email me and I'll be glad to try to help with an answer.
Take care and have a good 'un.
Sincerely
Dave
glad to see someone taking the time to rebuild the old 6, and not do a LS swap.
Thanks Ryan. The truck it's going in is an original condition 49 3100 and this engine is a period correct upgrade that was done countless times during the 50's and later. My goal is to keep the truck as close to period correct as possible.
@@Volfandt Hey there bud, would you be interested in building another one the exact same way? I just bought a 54 chevy 210 all original and im in the process of pulling the engine out to rebuild / freshen it up. Not sure where you're located but im in SE Michigan. 313-828-0328 give me a call anytime
@@josemiracle8598 hey Jose, my basket is full with too many projects and I'm in down in East TN so I don't think it would work out. Id say there's some good rebuilders up your way. Search for automotive machine shops. If your engine is a 216 it'll take more machining than what a 235 would take. Good luck and thanks for watching.
18:13, I thought I saw some blue flames ! Nice job and nicely explained for us car lovers, who have no actual experience fixing cars. Well nicely explained for everyone. Thanks for posting this video.
Yeah, she was spitt'n the blue flame but unfortunately I had to repaint the block where it burnt off, LOL. Thanks for watching
Fantastic job ! It's satisfying to see the original style Stovebolt six still in use. Just don't rev it like a small block.
Thanks m schiffel
Engine runs very smooth.
Thanks Marten. It's running even better now installed in the 49 Chevy.
Thanks for your video, I've just about rebuilt mine halfway and got my mate to do the rest of the technical stuff. I can't wait to start it. I've moved the repainted chassis into the garage and I'm ready to start assembling. I have the '54 front end and putting it onto a '48 cab.
Sounds like you're coming along great. Good luck with it. The prize is worth the journey.
@@Volfandt I'm pretty excited to get to the assembly!
My grandfather's 1956 Chevy 235 CID pickup had about 200K miles on it when it blew a piston. He was pulling a trailer load of cows up a long steep hill at full throttle.
Excellent video!! The Chevy 235 inline 6 is my favorite engine. My 1960 Chevy Apache pickup has the 235. Nice build on the engine!!
Thanks ICR
This was excellent video. I have a 55 stovebolt - rebuilt 10 years ago - brought back great memories! Bout the same build except i stayed stock specs, cam, carb, .030 over. did not start driving it till 2 years ago (search for 55 chevy ride along on youtube!)
Thanks budsodalsky, nothing wrong with staying stock on these engines. We had to go 0.060 over dues to damage in #1 cyl. Since you only went 0.030 over you've got another rebuild in your engine, should it need it. Good luck.
Thanks for posting. The Chevy 235 is my favorite engine. Maybe someday I can get one.
. Thanks for watching Tsukki_AMV
They are very common, good luck with your proyect :)
Nice job, you did everything correctly. You see a lot of slap-dash "overhauls" on UA-cam, but this isn't one.
Thanks Joe.
The burnt piston was most likely caused by spark knock where the timing was a little too far advanced. I blew a piston on my 261 engine because of that and my piston was burnt just like yours. The thrust bearing was most likely worn from some one riding the clutch too much, or the clutch was not properly adjusted all the time. When that happens the throw out bearing is making contact with the pressure plate constantly pushing the crankshaft forward making it ride constantly against the thrust bearing. A properly adjusted clutch should have about 1 1/2" of free travel and you should be able to spin the trow out bearing with your fingers.
My 235 is going to get the same "Service" 😉....great Video, Greetings from Germany
Hey! Wish I'd had this video a few months ago when I rebuilt mine!
Thanks for sharing, an excellent video!
Thanks
My stove bolt 216 still soldiers on in it’s original engine bay.
1951 Chevrolet 1/2 ton pick up.
72 years after her first start up.
Has engine hand crank but I use the foot starter six volt battery.
They were made to last and easy to service and thrifty fuel consumption.
Even the original Tri - Co vacuum wipers still operate.
Hey Bill, sounds great. Wonder what modern marvels today will have that same longevity.
That is an awesome engine rebuild
I had one of these engines in a boat . She ran great easy to work on also.
And nothing more satisfying then a smooth run on start up.
They are stout powerplants.
Inline 6 's ,best motors made for reliability and maintenance!
Agree Vince, thanks for watching 👍
Didn't mention how important it is to thoroughly clean the oil lines that run end to end in the block? These lines feed the crank and the rocker asssembly with oil. Also the wick (rope?) seal in the rear main bearing needs to be greased. and a shim removed, and then replaced, or the crank won't spin upon reassembly. Skip the bling. Every piece not being replaced is supposed to go back EXACTLY where it came from. Bearing caps on the connecting rods should be paired with their connecting rods etc. If you're not replacing push rods, put them back exactly where they came from. Also didn't mention the timing gears... But over all, good video. It brought me home.
Thanks for the critique. I originally didn't plan on this being a youtube video so I didn't document all the steps. Rest assured all the oil passages were thoroughly cleaned, all non-replaced parts were put back exactly where they originated and the rope seal was soaked overnight in oil before final assembly. It's been my experience to fit each main bearing cap and check for proper clearance and crank rotation before the rope seal is installed because once the rope seal is installed the crank will no longer spin easily. Not detailing the installing of the new cam, new lifters and new push rods is an oversight I wished I did include but unfortunately I didn't record or take any pics during that stage.
In any case thanks for your input.
btw, the engine has approx 1500 miles on it now and is running great, bling and all, LOL.
I've got it documented in newer video's, check them out.
Dave
Great video 👍 about to do the same to mine and put it in a 52 five window.
Thanks Aaron, those 5 windows (Deluxe cab's) are nice. Good luck.
A 54` 235 is perfect to upgrade the old babbit bearing 216`s , the water pump needs no modification.
Great video. I want to learn how to do this so bad.
1st you've got to deal with a good reputable automotive machine shop and let them do all the machine work. Then watch as many youtubes as you can on rebuilding. Knowing someone thats done successful engine rebuilds is a huge plus. Theres always tricks to the trade and "gotcha's", so thats where the experience comes from. Lastly you'll need the special tools and each engine has their own requirements.
Good luck.
one of the best engine all of time
Wow..super fun to watch..ive got a 54.. its been running so rich.. ive, weve had the carb rebuilt and adjusted but its still not working well. Step on the gas and it hesitates bad.
Theres a couple quick checks you can do to help isolate the problem.
#1 verify the carbs accelerator pump is working. With the engine off and the air cleaner removed. look down the throat of the carb while pulling the throttle to full open. If you don't see a squirt of fuel the carb's accelerator circuit isn't working.
#2 verify the vacuum advance is working. With the engine idling, manually work the throttle open and close and observe that the distributor moves. It should rotate via carb vacuum. If not verify the vacuum line is good and tight and theres vacuum getting to the advance. If vacuum is getting to the advance the advance unit is bad.
Either one of those is a common cause of what you described.
Good luck
@@Volfandt wow!!! Thanks so much!! This is super helpful
Excellent Video!
Thanks Jonathan
Great job!
Thanks Ignacio
Great to see an old engine breathe new life, not being scrapped or blown up by some young clowns.
Thanks Rob. That engine is about to breath new life into a 49 Chevy 3100.
You don't see many if any old 6 bangers being rebuilt on UA-cam. Thanks for sharing. I had a 5 window 54 when I was a kid in 77. Drove it all over and had to keep fixing the rear end and finally got tired of it and sold it. Do you still have the enclosed drive shaft or is it swapped with something different?
Yes, the 49 Chevy 3100 this engine is going in still has the original OEM drive train which is the enclosed torque tube drive shaft & 3 speed transmission. This engine will bolt directly up to it but I have to reuse the original 216's bell housing inorder for the rear motor mounts to bolt to the OEM cross member. I'll put new seals and gaskets on the torque tube when I do the swap. Even tho the engine is a 54 it is still a period correct mod that keeps in line with my desire to try and keep the truck period correct. Thanks
Nothing like a Chevrolet straight 6
👍
No oil canister or filter for the oil.
Nice 👍
Thats how they came from the factory. I've since swapped the bypass oil filter off of the 216 on to this 235. With close to 10k miles on it now it's purring like a happy kitten.
nice Karmann Ghia too
Thanks for watching Ed
Great engine, great vlog! Thanks for posting and sharing with us. At .060 over did it bring the c.I. Up to 250? Just curious!
0.060" over brings the 235 up to 244 CI.
Thanks for watching.
I need a set of those exhaust headers.... where did you get yours ?
Very good.
Thanks Old Iron
Hi
We have a 235 with a Rochester autom shoke. Which will be the best single barrel carb you will use? Or you prefer dual carb setup and which would you recommend? Thanks!
I'm having hard time with the camper attached on the hills...
I'm 3 speed with 3:95 diff.
A good single carb should do what you need. A Rochester B carb is a good carb when it's properly serviced.
The Carter YF carb is considered the best carb to run on a Chevy 235 by many and they made tons of them back in the day. Finding a good one will cost you but it's said they are worth it.
Make sure the choke on your Roch B carb is fully open when the engine is hot and fully closes when it's cold (been sitting over night). The proper adjustment is where it meets both extremes. Good luck.
When the engine block and parts are that rusted and FULL of gunk, how do you clean them or what's the best solvent you use?
The machinist I used to bore the block out had a hot tank that he cleans all engine parts in and he did mine. It cleaned it out real good. It's hard to get all the internal coolant passages cleaned out of a block and head without fully submersing them in a good cleaning solution. All that said oven cleaner is a good degreaser. A good radiator flush can also be a good cleaner if the engine is still in the vehicle and can run and heat it up.
Good luck
Dave
Awesome 😎 videos sir. Quick question? Where did you find the 3/4 race cam? I’m in the process of rebuilding my 1954 235 for my truck and I’d like to put one in. Any thoughts on where to find one? Thank You
I purchased mine from Patricks but he's no longer in business. Try Tom Langdon : www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Chevy-216-235-261/c/18665935
I purchased my carb setup from him and he also carries cams.
Cool video. If all goes well i'll own a 57 Balair sadan with a 235 in a few days. Been trying to learn more about the old stovebolt six. The only straight 6 engine vehicle i've ever owned for any length of time was a 99 BMW M Roadster which, while a good engine, is a completely different monster than good old un-complicated American pushrod iron. I've had plenty of small block chevy V8's but never a six. It's been a closet project of mine to get my hands on one whether it be a 235/250/292 GM engine, a 170/300/whatever ford engine, or one of those weird tilted Chrysler thingies.
A few questions, though. I know you can update to hardened seates for modern fuel compatability but are there aftermarket conversions available to run a hydraulic or even maybe a hydraulic link-bar roller lifter setup?
Shane, if the 235 in that 57 is strong it should easily run 60-65 mph all day long @ around 2500-2600 RPM based on it's rear differential gearing.
If the tranny in the 57 is a powerglide automatic the engine would have come stock with hydraulic lifters. Chevy put solids in the straight shift cars and all trucks.
The 235/powerglide combination would have a slightly higher HP rating also.
As for souping it up, my 235/244 is about as souped as you can do one. You could try and find the rare and expensive 53-55 Vette triple carb setup but I doubt it would make more power than my dual carb setup.
One additional hotrod mod would be to score one of those very rare and extremely expensive 12 port heads, otherwise a good cam and slightly larger SBC intake valves will be about all you can add to make these old heads breath better. The "848" head is the best factory head you can get as it'll get you about an 8 -1 compression ratio. I have an 848 on my 235/244.
The newer model 230/250/292 series of engines are more buildable for more HP. Their rockers are the same as whats in the SBC. The 57 you're looking at will already have a factory open drivetrain so upgrades are much more easier.
Good luck
Dave
"but are there aftermarket conversions available to run a hydraulic or even maybe a hydraulic link-bar roller lifter setup?"
To answer this question, it's generally accepted (and proven by a few who have tried) that trying to convert a motor that was manufactured with solid lifters CANNOT be converted to hydraulic lifters. I don't remember the reasons. It just doesn't work. Very likely has something to do with the oil galleys.
How are the rings opened up if more clearance is needed? Did you have that issue? I want to rebuild my engine myself but trying to do my homework first
There are ring grinder/filer tools available from many sources. They run from around $40 & up. All my rings were within spec but if I had to file or grind the ends for more clearance I would have used a very skinny fine file I have just for these type of situations.
It's always wise to get all your ducks in a row. Good luck with your future rebuild.
Did you use a stock cam?duals look great btw
No it's not a stock cam, it is often referred as a 3/4 race cam or a 264 cam. It provides more lift & duration over a stock 235 and 261 cam. The stock 261 cam has more lift & duration over a stock 235 cam and is often used in 235's to increase performance. It's said the Blue Flame 235's in the 53 & 54 Vette's used a cam with the 261 specs. The 3/4 cam is hotter than the stock 261 cam.
Thanks for watching.
I never knew that 6 cylinder engines played music like that ,
V-8s don't do this because I have built more than you have fingers and toes ,
Where exactly does the music come out ?
The Exhaust manifold
Nice job !!! Can the dual headers and dual carbs also on a 1950 235 ?
Yes
Hi
Me again...
My 235 i6 on the 3100 54 chev is running high on the temp gauge.
It goes to the H and moves down like 1/8". Back and forth.
A new thermostat was installed previous to that, new coolant too.
We life in a tropica island, Puerto Rico and we are in the top 90's all the time. Can i remove the thermostat and keep the flow cooling all the time?
Beleive me, it wont get too cold.
I will like to have the gauge running like 3/4 on 1/2 way on the gauge. If it get higher means that something is broken.
Im afraid it gets too hot and damage something.
Your advise please!
You definitely want to run a T'stat in an engine that was designed to run one. They not only warm the engine up quickly they also regulate the temp so the engine operates at it's most efficient power output. What is the temp rating of your T'stat? If it isn't a 160 change it out to a 160. You also want to run a 50/50 antifreeze mix as it will cool much better than straight water. Conventional wisdom indicates that running without a T'stat can actually cause an engine to run hotter as the coolant moves through the radiator too quick to get cooled down properly. Theres always exceptions to the rules tho.... Changing a T'stat is fairly easy so you can experiment some.
Hope all is well with you and yours on the Island.
@@Volfandt thanks
I will change it to 160 because the acrual one is a 190.
Make a lot of sense.
Thank you!
Appreciate it very much!
@@Volfandt Thank you very much!
I install the 160°F thermostat and it kept the engine gauge showing only half way all the time. It never went more than half and thats what we want it. Your recomendation was a home run.
Appreciate it very much!
I keep you posted on every question with my proyect.
what someone can do in a garage is insane
Thanks for watching
Hey man I'm building a 235 and was wondering how reliable this build is. I want something that's fun but not to much fun that things break. Thanks!
I'm approaching 1800 miles on the engine and so far I've not had any mechanical issues. It's avg'ing around 15.5 MPG, haven't gotten any hotter than 185 (extended idling) and starts right up whether hot or cold. The parts I used were 1st class and I took care to use a good break-in oil and broke-in the cam and lifters per the accepted procedures. The dual carbs and dual exhaust seem to work great but I believe the OEM single carb and single exhaust would likely work out just as well.
Good luck.
@@Volfandt hey man I really appreciate it. That is such a awesome set up. Dont have to much fun with it lol
Did you have to put a restrictor on the Fenton heat kit copper tubing? I'm going to install mine and was worried it might be to much heat for the intake. How has it been for you?
No, I didn't have to put any kind of restrictor in the copper preheat tubes.
As a matter of fact they hardly do the job of preheating the intake. They do not work any where close to how the stock preheat flapper works. That said they do seem to help warm up the intake & is better than not having them....
Many have said that plumbing hot water to the intake works alot better than those copper preheat tubes (including Tom Langdon) but I decided to try the exhaust preheat route as I figured it would heat up the intake quicker than it took for the coolant to get hot.
Good luck
@@Volfandt I appreciate your input. I was thinking it would be too hot and create vapor lock in the summer for me. Did you end up routing tubing from each header to the heat plate or just one? The kits I've seen only sell the heat plate with one set of compression adapters and one threaded hole in the heat plate.
@@euzkadi44 I routed copper tubes from both headers in hopes it would increase flow and heat. Routing from both headers is definitely better than from just one.
I believe I got the heat plate kit from Tom Langdon which had holes and hardware for both headers. ( he actually recommends plumbing in hot water instead of header heat).
@@Volfandt I'll drill and tap a new hole and try to source the compression fittings. Thanks for your invaluable advice! I really enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work!
I was looking forward to a bit of blue flame history, I get music and text. If I wanted to read it I'd get a book.
This was an earlier version. IF interested try this link for narration: ua-cam.com/video/vo7MZJnVgfc/v-deo.html
Or try this link for some Stovebolt history & modification examples: ua-cam.com/video/M9OcysOaEP8/v-deo.html
man...wish i could afford to rebuild my 235 before i stick it back in my 49 :(
where did you get the engine rebuild kit?
I sourced the rebuild kit through Patricks Stovebolt but unfortunately he is no longer in business. You can get the basic rebuild kit (gaskets, pistons, rings, main & rod bearings etc.,) through NAPA or most any engine rebuild supply houses and the performance parts from Tom Langdon's Stovebolt. He may even supply the basic kit or recommend a source.
Good luck.
❤
Thanks for watching Sonia
I know it’s a completely different engine than mine but I’m rebuilding a international 220 silver diamond engine right now.
Good luck with it. Alot of the same procedures are the same across all ICE's. Is that an OHV or flathead? Either way I'm sure you'll enjoy it once it's complete.
sorry to late its a old video but this engine have oil filter??
I installed a bypass oil filter later.
Como tener manual de mantenimiento delchevy235 de 1954
chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com/
Diferent carburator of this motor in your country.
Where did you get the new Cam & Lifters ?
Patricks Stovebolt parts but unfortunately he's been out of business for a couple years now. Try Langdon Stovebolt parts.
Thanks.
Where did you get the parts,or did the shop that did the millwork get the parts?
I ordered the parts from Patricks Antique truck parts but unfortunately they've closed down in the past year. All the rebuild parts are available from on line providers, you'll probably have to use several.
@@Volfandt you can also get parts from 6=8 Clifford
Wanted to hear the motor run but the music was too much for these old ears. What a great job. Clearly not your first rodeo.
Thanks JC, In the description is a link to the engine running with no music.
my first car was a used '55 with a 235. It was SLOW! it might have made 75hp on a good day. look at the combustion chambers at 8:09. horrible. this was not a motor built for performance. I have to wonder why they built it at all! the 230/250 that replaced it was light-years ahead.
I've heard these Stovebolt engines referred to as glorified tractor engines and I don't necessarily disagree with it but with that said only the SBC has had a longer run as the base engine for GM vehicles than these old Stovebolt engines. Thanks for watching.
ran my 216 with no exhaust ,very loud .
COngrats on running it.
what is the price for rebuilding this engine?
Parts and machine work ran about $1800.00.
Unfortunately the provider I purchased all the internal engine parts from is no longer in business so those parts prices could now be higher or lower depending upon the provider/sources.
Assembly, testing and break-in was done by me. That said if you were to pay for labor I'll guesstimate you're looking at another $2000 - $3000.
Can’t hear the motor for the background music.
Theres popup cards during the video that will take you to the engine running without music and theres individual links in the description that also link to no music engine running.
I have a 58 apache one owner. Im looking to have engine remaned. Truck ran 8 years ago. Have not tried since. If interested i. Doing this. Please reach out to me.
Travis, my plate is full for the foreseeable future, so I'll have to respectfully decline but thanks for the opportunity. Depending on where you're located, there may be several capable rebuild shops near you. What you may try is to remove the plugs squirt some oil into each cylinder, manually rotate the engine to ensure it turns and if it does try to start it up. It may run. Good luck
@@Volfandt just got her to fire up would you mind guesstimating what i should expect to spend to rebuild? If i pay a professional. Would help me a lot on deciding what to do with this truck.
@@travisloucks948 parts for my 235 ran approx $1300 and thats not counting any of my labor. An old rule of thumb to estimate a price is to double the parts price for labor so I'd estimate a turnkey price of $2600-$3000. I've seen folks say they got a rebuilt stovebolt engine for $2100-$2500 but thats from the internet so take it with a grain of salt.
Since your engine is running it may not need a full rebuild. Does it have good oil pressure? The higher the better. Do a compression test, if all the cylinders are within 10%-15% of each other the bottom end should be GTG.
Good luck
Interesting video but way too long and music is probably great for you but annoying to some of us and me. But thanks. learned a lot.
Thanks for watching and the input.
The music is crap when you want to hear the engine .
new engine light off all new parts help me 235
i have toyota land cruiser 1973 with 235 clone of chevy. and i have 2 engine 2f. 2f is clone of chevy 250. and i have one other engine toyota 3f. all engine is inline six
The video camera moves to fast I'm Diddy can't read any of the caption
Try this version: ua-cam.com/video/vo7MZJnVgfc/v-deo.html
Would be better with out the music could hear motor better
I updated the rebuild video here with no music, follow the link:
ua-cam.com/video/vo7MZJnVgfc/v-deo.html
Skip the music next time..
NO MUSIC IS NECCESSARY...REDICULOUS !!!