For load data, books need an update to have 4 different categories. You need a AR cycling subsonic and supersonic load data and for bolt action and lever, need subsonic and supersonic data. When it comes to subsonic in manual actions, can go a lot lighter on powder without issues
I doubt that will ever happen. In the end, the reloading manuals are just a starting point. As I always point out in my videos, I just show my experiences, it's not a how to and there are so many other variables out there with other folks firearms that they have to work up their own loads. At some point I will add a bolt action 300 Blackout rifle to the mix.
There will be plenty more to come. Suppressors, 125g TNT and 110g Varmageddon reloading projects, a resizing video with the Lee APP and perhaps a new 300 BO rifle or two on the channel. I might do another subsonic load after I finish the 220g series. There will be 300 Blackout on the channel for years to come.
According to Berry's you're not supposed to shoot those at over 1250fps or the jacket will spin off. I load my subs to 1050-1080fps , that pretty much keeps them subsonic all year round where I live as it doesn't drop below 30 degrees f very often .
Berry's says 1300 FPS for 1:7 barrel. I did the subsonic loading thing of starting high and working our way down low. Next video we will be laddering down the load while aiming to get subsonic and keeping the rifle functional.
@@wanneroo7106 I usually don't run into cycling issues until I get to 950fs or less but I'm running a pistol length gas system and a suppressor but you shouldn't have any problems getting subsonic. Make sure you're running 300blk mags or modified 5.56 mags with those bigger bullets , they will bind up and cause feeding issues in standard 5.56 mags. I have a video on my channel how to modify your mags if you need it.
I’ve done extensive testing with cfe blk and 220 berrys with 7.5”, 10.3”, 16”. As far as oal, I load mine to 2.10 and have tried from 2.25 down to 2.10. I’ve found that the best accuracy and most consistent es and sd numbers come with a short oal and less charge weight. I’ve dialed different loads for different barrels and seasons of the year and found that at 11.5-11.6 gr at 2.10-2.11 that all three barrels are subsonic for all seasons. Cfe blk requires near or some compression to burn efficiently and shrink sd numbers. Case headstamps of course make a slight difference with various case capacity but all are in the sweet spot with the above recipe. I’ve had accuracy as good as 3/4”- at 100 yds with just a red dot and always stay subsonic. This load also cycles with or without suppressor which is why I like this powder so much. Always great videos and information for us reloaders.👍
Thank you for the comment. Yes by the end of the project in Part 5 pretty much those are the conclusions I came to. In the end it was a successful project but that is the thing when I start these projects I don't know where they will end up or turn out or what I will learn. I have some other powders to try with these bullets but I figured I would give the audience a break and do some other projects for now once I completed Part 5.
If you ever get a chance, try sw sbr socom for subsonic 300 blk. It is a amazing powder with the lowest sd#s I’ve ever seen in subsonic. Love your videos, thanks for all you do!👍🇺🇸
The Shooters World powders haven't been widely available since Covid I find, but I was able to get some of their Blackout powder and will be trying that. One advantage with their powders, if available, is the attractive price point.
Sw blackout is basically aa1680 but cleaner, works pretty good. The socom is just exceptional from 110gr all the way up to 240 gr, subs and supers. The price is really nice although it went up where I live about a month ago but did get 3 lbs at $30 so that was nice. Someday if you see it, try it out, it is by far the best 300 blk powder out there!👍Cheers to you and hope you have a great day!
Good, always good to have other options and H110 is a very common powder. I had success with H110 with light bullets in 300 BO but not midweight bullets.
Thank you. Yes, I did start high as I figured to make sure they worked and were functional, fed well into the chamber, etc. Then I will start to ladder down the load until we get there and also we will see what the accuracy does as well. It's going to be interesting to see how it pans out. If accuracy or reliability goes away then I'll look at another powder and will continue the project until I am happy with the end result.
I haven’t been loading 300 blackout very long I’ve loaded maybe 1500 rounds. It’s all been with either brass I’ve converted or that I’ve picked up off the range with probably 80% being brass i converted. I’ve actually had the opposite experience where i don’t have anywhere near enough neck tension like after seating the bullet i can spin the bullets or in extreme cases even pull them back out with just my hands. I’m using the cheap lee die set that comes with the factory crimp die. Specifically with the 220gr berrys bullets they’ve required a very strong crimp to hold the bullets in place,with the normal crimp I’d use the bullets were moving when the bolt was slamming home. Probably not a big deal but i didn’t like it. I’ve been using 1680 with great success in an 8.3” Hanson barrel with both subsonic and super sonic,the only time I’ve ran it without the supressor is just making sure bullets are flying straight but I’ve had 100% reliability with subsonic loaded with 1680. I just got some Cfe black,will be nice to see how they compare I’ve always heard they were similar.
Thanks for the comment and watching, I just uploaded Part 3 so be sure to check that out. Well, here is what I found over time with thousands of pieces of converted 5.56 brass. Due to that brass getting stretched out when being fired and then being cut and converted to 300 Blackout, I found a lot of inconsistency with case wall thickness and hence case shoulder and neck thickness. I have encountered plenty of thin weak case necks and shoulders and that brass never holds up being reloaded more than a few times. I have gradually pushed in the direction of updating to Starline Brass which is manufactured with consistent brass thickness and I've been very happy with that. 300 Blackout also in general does not have very strong neck tension so I find it does not tolerate undersized .308 bullets like the M80 147g FMJ bullets that are often .304 to .306 sized.
@@wanneroo7106 nice I’m watching pt.3 now. I’ve been using almost exclusively lc brass to cut down as I’ve had the best luck with it. I recently started annealing all the cases to see if it helps at all but i haven’t been doing it long enough to really know. I guess I’ll have to drop some cash on some new brass and see if i have any better luck with neck tension. I was getting ready to remove the ball expander from my die and use a separate neck expanding die to see if that would give me better results.
After starting with RCBS small base sizing die, I switched to the Forster Bench Rest Sizing Die: amzn.to/489YP87 I've used that now for years with great results and the expanding ball in that doesn't excessively expand the case mouth. I still use the RCBS seater die to seat and crimp.
That's why I always say with my reloading videos is that they are not a how to, everyone just gets to see what l do and the lessons I learn. In the end they have to work their own loads up, taking into consideration what firearm they have. I'm sure the twist rate has to do with that very short barrel. Personally myself that Rattler is too short for me anyways, I probably would not go less than 9 inches on any barrel for a pistol or SBR.
Part 3 is now uploaded to the channel: ua-cam.com/video/ZWXY0MGk3c0/v-deo.html
I am so glad that I found your video. This is exactly what I've been looking for.
Thank you for what you do. Bless you my friend.
Yes, it was a very successful project and I enjoyed doing it. Make sure you watch all the videos in the series.
For load data, books need an update to have 4 different categories.
You need a AR cycling subsonic and supersonic load data and for bolt action and lever, need subsonic and supersonic data.
When it comes to subsonic in manual actions, can go a lot lighter on powder without issues
I doubt that will ever happen. In the end, the reloading manuals are just a starting point. As I always point out in my videos, I just show my experiences, it's not a how to and there are so many other variables out there with other folks firearms that they have to work up their own loads. At some point I will add a bolt action 300 Blackout rifle to the mix.
We need more reloading for 300
There will be plenty more to come. Suppressors, 125g TNT and 110g Varmageddon reloading projects, a resizing video with the Lee APP and perhaps a new 300 BO rifle or two on the channel. I might do another subsonic load after I finish the 220g series. There will be 300 Blackout on the channel for years to come.
I agree that you need to start with what powder charges they recommend and work back. The listed charge is supersonic even though a 8.5 inch barrel
According to Berry's you're not supposed to shoot those at over 1250fps or the jacket will spin off. I load my subs to 1050-1080fps , that pretty much keeps them subsonic all year round where I live as it doesn't drop below 30 degrees f very often .
Berry's says 1300 FPS for 1:7 barrel. I did the subsonic loading thing of starting high and working our way down low. Next video we will be laddering down the load while aiming to get subsonic and keeping the rifle functional.
@@wanneroo7106 I usually don't run into cycling issues until I get to 950fs or less but I'm running a pistol length gas system and a suppressor but you shouldn't have any problems getting subsonic. Make sure you're running 300blk mags or modified 5.56 mags with those bigger bullets , they will bind up and cause feeding issues in standard 5.56 mags. I have a video on my channel how to modify your mags if you need it.
Just got some of these on sale! Thanks for the video.
what I have found out with the OAL will become longer to get down to subsonic FPS.
We will see how it pans out. I found previously with CFE BLK that it doesn't like a lot of airspace in the cartridge.
I’ve done extensive testing with cfe blk and 220 berrys with 7.5”, 10.3”, 16”. As far as oal, I load mine to 2.10 and have tried from 2.25 down to 2.10. I’ve found that the best accuracy and most consistent es and sd numbers come with a short oal and less charge weight. I’ve dialed different loads for different barrels and seasons of the year and found that at 11.5-11.6 gr at 2.10-2.11 that all three barrels are subsonic for all seasons. Cfe blk requires near or some compression to burn efficiently and shrink sd numbers. Case headstamps of course make a slight difference with various case capacity but all are in the sweet spot with the above recipe. I’ve had accuracy as good as 3/4”- at 100 yds with just a red dot and always stay subsonic. This load also cycles with or without suppressor which is why I like this powder so much. Always great videos and information for us reloaders.👍
Thank you for the comment. Yes by the end of the project in Part 5 pretty much those are the conclusions I came to. In the end it was a successful project but that is the thing when I start these projects I don't know where they will end up or turn out or what I will learn. I have some other powders to try with these bullets but I figured I would give the audience a break and do some other projects for now once I completed Part 5.
If you ever get a chance, try sw sbr socom for subsonic 300 blk. It is a amazing powder with the lowest sd#s I’ve ever seen in subsonic. Love your videos, thanks for all you do!👍🇺🇸
The Shooters World powders haven't been widely available since Covid I find, but I was able to get some of their Blackout powder and will be trying that. One advantage with their powders, if available, is the attractive price point.
Sw blackout is basically aa1680 but cleaner, works pretty good. The socom is just exceptional from 110gr all the way up to 240 gr, subs and supers. The price is really nice although it went up where I live about a month ago but did get 3 lbs at $30 so that was nice. Someday if you see it, try it out, it is by far the best 300 blk powder out there!👍Cheers to you and hope you have a great day!
I loaded the 220 Berry’s with H110 9 grains and getting 1107 fps and very good cycling so far.
Good, always good to have other options and H110 is a very common powder. I had success with H110 with light bullets in 300 BO but not midweight bullets.
Lol…great name for a 300BLK project 😂. That’s a sweet looking fluted barrel!
Tad fast but great grouping!!
Will be watching this series 👀 🇺🇸.
Thank you. Yes, I did start high as I figured to make sure they worked and were functional, fed well into the chamber, etc. Then I will start to ladder down the load until we get there and also we will see what the accuracy does as well. It's going to be interesting to see how it pans out. If accuracy or reliability goes away then I'll look at another powder and will continue the project until I am happy with the end result.
@@wanneroo7106 cool!! I have all the stuff but have not assembled or started reloading. Have some 220 Berry’s and 1680 powder for…one day😉.
I haven’t been loading 300 blackout very long I’ve loaded maybe 1500 rounds. It’s all been with either brass I’ve converted or that I’ve picked up off the range with probably 80% being brass i converted. I’ve actually had the opposite experience where i don’t have anywhere near enough neck tension like after seating the bullet i can spin the bullets or in extreme cases even pull them back out with just my hands. I’m using the cheap lee die set that comes with the factory crimp die. Specifically with the 220gr berrys bullets they’ve required a very strong crimp to hold the bullets in place,with the normal crimp I’d use the bullets were moving when the bolt was slamming home. Probably not a big deal but i didn’t like it. I’ve been using 1680 with great success in an 8.3” Hanson barrel with both subsonic and super sonic,the only time I’ve ran it without the supressor is just making sure bullets are flying straight but I’ve had 100% reliability with subsonic loaded with 1680. I just got some Cfe black,will be nice to see how they compare I’ve always heard they were similar.
Thanks for the comment and watching, I just uploaded Part 3 so be sure to check that out. Well, here is what I found over time with thousands of pieces of converted 5.56 brass. Due to that brass getting stretched out when being fired and then being cut and converted to 300 Blackout, I found a lot of inconsistency with case wall thickness and hence case shoulder and neck thickness. I have encountered plenty of thin weak case necks and shoulders and that brass never holds up being reloaded more than a few times. I have gradually pushed in the direction of updating to Starline Brass which is manufactured with consistent brass thickness and I've been very happy with that. 300 Blackout also in general does not have very strong neck tension so I find it does not tolerate undersized .308 bullets like the M80 147g FMJ bullets that are often .304 to .306 sized.
@@wanneroo7106 nice I’m watching pt.3 now. I’ve been using almost exclusively lc brass to cut down as I’ve had the best luck with it. I recently started annealing all the cases to see if it helps at all but i haven’t been doing it long enough to really know. I guess I’ll have to drop some cash on some new brass and see if i have any better luck with neck tension. I was getting ready to remove the ball expander from my die and use a separate neck expanding die to see if that would give me better results.
After starting with RCBS small base sizing die, I switched to the Forster Bench Rest Sizing Die: amzn.to/489YP87 I've used that now for years with great results and the expanding ball in that doesn't excessively expand the case mouth. I still use the RCBS seater die to seat and crimp.
Those Berry’s pills won’t work for fast twistrate barrels like the one in the Rattler, which has a 1:5 twist @ 5.5 inches.
That's why I always say with my reloading videos is that they are not a how to, everyone just gets to see what l do and the lessons I learn. In the end they have to work their own loads up, taking into consideration what firearm they have. I'm sure the twist rate has to do with that very short barrel. Personally myself that Rattler is too short for me anyways, I probably would not go less than 9 inches on any barrel for a pistol or SBR.
Absolutely. Thanks for making the videos!
The only thing so far that annoyed me with the Berry’s 220 gr is the fact that there was significant variation in the the bullet length
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