How to get free HP in your driveway. Turbo Diesel, ZD30, 1KD, 4JJ1.
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- Опубліковано 17 жов 2022
- Today we touch base on a common issue we are starting to see with Common Rail Diesels, and how you can check and fix it at home in your driveway, resulting in a power gain.
![Why Has My ZD30 Engine Been So Reliable - [ Watch This ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zXY5JERFqCo/mqdefault.jpg)
Keep the ZD30 stuff coming but please don't forget the Di's as there are a lot more of them out there in need of love.
We don’t tune them mate, so not something we see a hell of a lot unfortanetly.
@@boostedsagas884 Ah crap, I have mine pulling asses out of TD's without even touching the ECU but using a DPCHIP which is rude-n-crude. It's a shame that so many just opt for the easy CRD's and the DI is stuck with Nissans's cheap-ass decisions on them. Not having a shot at you, just a generallised statement.
@@bentheguru4986as a di owner, i feel ya, nobody wants to touch it in wa, I'm running a t3 gated and it chops until limp hits and it cuts fuel. does the dpchip control the injector pump?
@@crapcopter Yeah, sits on the spill valve wires at the pump. Holds off the limp but I also fitted a 15% bigger MAF tube to offset the intake airflow and hold off the limp as well.
@@crapcoptertalk to Border Automotive they tune the ZD30DI
I’m planning on making my own intake and plenum, with the egr physically deleted. (already turned off) The one hurdle I thought about was those butterflies, this video answers my question. Thanks 👍
Rip them out and don’t look back 👌👌
Mate you are a legend. Just did this to our ZD30 crd and you can feel it down low. Like lets be honest its not suck you back in the seat difference but its definitely something and worth it for all the reasons you mentioned. Cheers!
It’s why we did the vid, it’s something we are seeing more and more often. And some people can be driving around for years not knowing they are loosing performance.
I drive a ZD30 common rail Nissan urvan in Japan.
I'm learning a lot while reading the community of ZD30 users around the world to try tuning.
In Japan, Tuned Diesel is a minority in the production country, and among them, Hiace has a large share.
I will also refer to the video, including troubleshooting.
Great video mate will definitely be doing that on mine.
cheers m8 just had a sus at mine had the same problem pulled the vacuum off and fixed your a legend
Bloody awesome.
Thanks for the heads up mod made a noticeable difference awesome man 🙂
That’s wicked mate, something super simple anyone can do at home, great to see your noticed a difference straight away.
Honestly thought this was complete bs so i tried it and it works great haha cheers mate!
Our pleasure mate.
Just did it to mine and noticed a difference straight away!
That’s wicked mate.
Great mod! I’m doing it, even if it isn’t stuck 😆 Keep the ZD30 vids coming. I tuned my Tillix exactly like you said & it’s so much better towing, daily driving, 4wding... Thanks heaps.
Hey that’s awesome to hear man, I’m going to try do more videos like this, that will actually help people with their own vehicles.
Thinking I’ll start a new section of “driveway” mods.
@@boostedsagas884 please do!!!
@@boostedsagas884 definitely will be watching these mate. Quality content for the ZD30!
bloody legend, mine was stuck shut.
runs like a new car 👍
Awesome man, I’m glad this could help. Hopefully avoid some possible future engine troubles. And free up some economy and extra ponies 🤘🤘
Hey mate would you recommend taking the whole egr system out and if so could you do a video on it cheers thanks for the info on the zd
I did remove the solenoid, the flaps and complete EGR system few months ago when i had the engine out. What i did was, on the plug to the vac-solenoid when i removed it, i installed a 1W - 330 ohm resistor in the plug. This way you dont get a ECU fault code for «EGR vac solenoid stuck open».
Nicely done man. I’ll have to keep that one in the memory bank next time someone rings up saying there solenoid is throwing codes.
My 2009 CRD is throwing the P0220 code currently. Came across this video and my swirl control was indeed stuck shut.
Should I install a resistor or if I have the code deleted (disconnecting the battery didn't work FYI) will the code come back?
Great video mate, wot about GQ 2.8l turbo diesel. Cheers Graham
Good video Chappy and where is the 4jj1 situated as my 2009 isuzu needs it
4J’s are a little different, though for them I’d advise removing intake and giving it a solid clean. While you’ve got it apart, delete the swirl flaps all together. They have a habit of dropping the little screws out of the flaps and destroying ya motor. So worth stripping for a clean and deleting in my opinion.
On the NS series Pajero with the 4M41 disconnecting the swirl flap can slove a common problem they have of jerking/jumping at light throttle load. Not sure why though. It appears on the later model 4m41 Pajero's Mitsubishi removed the swirl flaps completely.
That’s a very good point, I wonder if they used the intake manifold design to help mix the egr gasses, or simply decided it wasn’t worth the dramas the swirl flaps have created. It’s not common for a manufacture to genuinely be concerned about issues like that, but if they can save money by not “needing” them and the need for another system to operate the flaps, now that would peak their interest.
I done an intake clean on my old ns Pajero and ripped out the butterfly's
Mate where are you located? I have a gu td42 build happeninf at the moment, i like your content and would like to look at a tune from you
Beerwah on the Sunshine Coast mate.
Biggest difference after doing this is smoothing out the power delivery. There seems to be some lag in the flaps opening which screws up the midrange.
Hay mate ive just done this to a 1kd and it works great but it keeps throwing a P0400 code which is egr flow malfunction, i can clear it but im assuming its ok because it might just reading the flaps not closing, but is still worrying, the egr is clean and im about to put a 7mm blank plate in would this solve the code problem or make it worse? Cheers for the video mate!
Great video, so would this work on a 4jj isuzu engine?
Very similar set ups, obviously locations of solenoids will differ, but same principle. The 4J’s are even worse, the screw have a habit of coming loose on those swirl flaps and destroying the entire engine. I’d go as far as fully removing them if I owned a 4J.
Hey mate, Is pulling the manifold off a 2013 Zd much different then say a 2007? I looked at my workshop manual and it looks way different?
Main difference would be the rear aircon. There’s a few extra lines back there that make working around that area a bit of a pain in the ass. Be mindful which book your reading, as 07 was the change over year from the previous zd30 iteration.
The nissan ZD30 CRD workshop manual says that the Swirl Control valve is supposed to be closed below 2600rpm if the water temp is between 22-100deg. Basically what your video showed is not a broken valve but one working exactly as intended. To test malfunction, you would need to test with rpm over 2600 (I.e. see of its closed when its supposed to open).
Also, if the valve was broken and always closed, the biggest impact would be felt at higher rpm when the max airflow is trying to get through. ZD30 CRD will see about 18g/s (Mass Air Flow) at idle and about 150g/s at max RPM. If the valve was fully closed then the power and torque would be most affected at higher RPM. Your dyno results however show the higher RPM figures are unchanged. I suspect this is because the swirl valve closed as intended when the RPM increased. All was Woking as designed.
The higher torque in your dyno run is no doubt due to the higher boost. We need to ask, why is the boost higher? When the swirl valve is closed, it will hold back more pressure. The MAP (boost) sensor is in the intercooler well before the swirl valve so must see higher boost pressure when the valve is operating (the cylinder will obviously see lower pressure, but this isn't where your sensor/monitoring point is). The fact that your 2nd dyno run shows higher boost at the intercooler says that something else has significantly changed between runs to increase boost. This has resulted in the higher torque. You'll need more/cleaner runs to conclude if the swirl valve actually increase or decreases the torque.
Theory and reality are often two different things. In theory it’s supposed to help increase air speed and generate swirl in the chamber to better mix fuel at low rpm. And maybe that’s the case, how ever we see on patrols, Hilux’, Dmax’s, both power and torque increase virtually everywhere across the rev range at when the system is disabled. Maybe the system operates better at partial throttle, but then I’d expect a negative effect on fuel economy. And if that was the case, I’d have people kicking my door down about loosing them mileage from a tank. All I can comment on, is what we see on the dyno. And the feedback people have given us when doing it themselves at home.
I appreciate theory and reality offen differ, but that doesn't change the fact that the video offers a test and concludes the valve is broken when its operation exactly as Nissan designed it.
Also glosses over the fact that the 2nd dyno run (the one with better torque) is run at higher boost which perfectly explains the higher torque. There is no possible way that closing the swirl valve would create higher boost at the MAP sensor (which is up stream of the valve). Clearly there is another factor at play. As others have suggested multiple runs with ONLY this change are needed.
I agree that customers would be kicking your door down if it increased fuel usage. And I doubt it would. Given its only closed at low rpm/MAF flow you might be increasing air flow loss by 0.05psi whish would be indistinguishable in any mileage or dyno calcs.
Thanks, I'm just trying to understand the purpose of the solenoid and now that it is fully open what are the downsides? Why did they have a closing function?
So I’m pretty sure I covered that towards the end of the video, but it’s to increase air speed and introduce “swirl” in the combustion chamber to help mix the EGR gasses with the fresh air at low engine rpm.
@@boostedsagas884 so when its fully open that is always happening right? Im guessing it would just close on cold start and otherwise be open?
@@EatSleepShift
This may help explain the concept of swirl.
ua-cam.com/video/p3QKTB3GnLI/v-deo.html
@@EatSleepShift it’s only closed when the egr is active. Which is idle and light throttle. Once your under load or accelerating, the egr is off, so the swirl flaps are supposed to open up. But this solenoid had failed cussing them to stay shut and choke the motor off.
@@boostedsagas884hey mate, on that thought, would there be an easy mod that you could hint to us for how to invert the operation of this solenoid to make it fail in a way it stays open rather than shut? Or is that going to be too much mucking around? Just for those of us who are anal and wouldn't want to simply bypass the solenoid permanently ☺️ cheers
hi mate,
thanks for the video and sharing the info for we have ZD30 engines. Patrol CRD specifically. even that mine was not stuck I just did this modification yesterday and I will see how it goes from now on. Just a quick question... as I have not blocked the egr having the manifold opened all the time more exhaust gases will get into the manifold? I am planning to do a partial blocking with a 6mm plate to do not get the engine light on.. just waiting for arrival. thanks in advance for your advise.
Slap the plate in when it arrives, if your egr isn’t fully blocked, and the solenoid wasn’t faulty, you probably won’t see any real advantages from disconnecting the swirl valve solenoid.
Thanks for your advice. I will do so and see what happens and put it in the comments later. Cheers 🍻
Hi m8 top vid is it the same deal for a DI ZD?
is this essentially what the "swirl mod" is people do when the blank the egr on that side ?
That’s it. These are the swirl flaps.
My 2005/2006 1kd hilux's have no feedback to the ecu on swirl flap position.
Correct, majority of vehicle don’t. It’s why it needs to be checked and cleaned, or bypassed completely if necessary.
Does having the EGR blocked prevent the build up from happening. I've had mine blocked 200k kms ago.
Yes it defiantly helps, just depends how much was allowed to build up before it was blanked.
What if the actuator looks open but doesn’t move at all ? Even when you put the hose on and off ?
Potentially you’ve got a split line going to actuator, actuator is faulty, or swirl flaps are gummed up and jammed in position.
Can you do this mod with or without egr blank plate installed,? and will it effect egr cooler tube temps at all as i believe they run high temps??
If you’re going to blank or turn off your egr, then it’s best to follow up with this mod.
Is this the same as the silvertop td42 egr systems?? Is it possible to remove the whole egr system?
The td42 TI model has egr system, I’m not aware of the silver tops (na early model) having any egr system. Though no swirl flaps in the manifold like this, they have a valve in the intake tract.
G'day, I'm in Victoria (plz don't hold that against me ) and just bought a 2010 Patrol ZD30 and in my YT searches came across your vids. Do you actually have a website. I'm keen to lean more about mods. The Patrol is my second diesel after owning a Jackaroo (dreaded 4JX1) since 2009 and am enjoying the heck out of the Nissan and it's only been a week
That would have been a 4JX3 Jackaroo. Nothing wrong with that motor, problem was lack of knowledge of oil viscosity required for the Catapillar fuel injection system utilised. Run the correct viscosity oil and they were an awesome motor.
Too many so called mechanics caused more damage by running incorrect oil, then saying injectors were faulty, stripping a motor they didn't understand and wondering why they couldn't resolve the issue.
I loved my Jackaroo's, but alas the difficulty to reliably obtain maintenance parts became the reason I went into my 2016 ZD30 auto Patrol.
ZD30 & 4JX3 both had 118 kW, (auto) ZD30 CRC 350nm (man) ZD30 CRC 380nm opposed to 4JX3 333 nm but the 4JX3 delivered that torque far smother at low RPM due to the remarkable injection system and the Jackaroo being lighter was possibly the quicker of the two.
Recall Holden's advertising when they released the 4JX3 Jackaroo.
Moto "No such thing as the slow lane anymore" fast lane overtaking in a diesel engine basically unknown at the time the Isuzu/Catapillar 4JX3 was released.
Having said all that, I'm totally enjoying my ZD30 CRC Patrol.
Beaudesert exhaust and tune have resolved low RPM torque delivery for me.
@@ianweal3081 the engine you are referring to is a Yamaha YZ250 1994 4JX3, in Australia it was the 4JX1 and I loved mine and I have a group that have been more than helpful with it and because of the Jackaroo community the engine was repaired time and time again. The biggest down fall of the 4JX is that there is no aftermarket for it
@@jacquesjackcoomans2295 sorry I don't under reference to YZ250.
By providing a reference date, I now realise you were referring to the previous Jackaroo diesel, fuel injection by mechanical pump, only ever heard good things of that motors long jeopardy, not dreaded.
I assumed when you said dreaded you were referring to the 4JX3 (1997 release) as it had a poor reputation with mechanics due to zero understanding or willingness to understand this motor.
It was a Isuzu motor, but the fuel injection was a Catapillar system that was extremely good at delivering diesel for combustion via an injector under extremely high oil pressure, hence really good mist for combustion at low revs, fantastic low RPM torque, hence Caterpillars use of it in dozers etc.
The "common rail" was filled with high pressure oil, not diesel. Mechanics refered to it as just another common rail diesel, Wrong, it was anything but, hence so many issues created by mechanics.
That Catapillar injection system was also used by Ford in one of their V8 diesel motors, infact one of the sensors were comparable, ford charged something like $250 for it, Holden $600.
The 4JX3 was a one off design, hence no backup nor easy access to components once Holden wound back on supply. I used to get components from UAE but eventually freight costs made this unviable, hence Patrol ZD30.
@@ianweal3081 I don't know where you are but here in Australia I've (as with the Jackaroo forum on facebook amongst others ) it is known as the 4JX1. I have a friend here in Victoria who is tinkering with different parts to see if they would be compatible like an aftermarket ORPS etc. Holden stopped supporting the 4JX approx. 10yrs after the last model came out 2003 but the prices Holden charged per injector was ludicrous ($1100 each plus tax) and the only other alternative was Chinese inj which are hit and miss. Incidentally, my 2001 Jackaroo didn't make it into Holden for the inj recall and I've had to change mine twice in the time I've had her.
No website as such mate, just facey and Insta, I usually post daily videos on tuning and cars we have in the shop. Evolution Tuning.
Hey mate my hose is super tight on that connector. Did you cut it or is there a trick I am missing?
Yep, snipped and folded over with a zip tie. They either won’t come off, or tear in half.
@@boostedsagas884 done and immediately observed a difference in drive ability. Legend! keep these coming!
You said this was an auto at WOT so how comparable are these graphs at 1600rpm and lower?
If they are you can see exactly what the swirl flaps do. Heaps more torque, more boost and WAY lower AFR's.
Remember this is about the rpm you are at doing 60kmh in 4th when you want to put your foot down.
Like I said these graphs may not be accurate/repeatable at this rpm but interested in your thoughts. And possibly expand on if you have played around with them while tuning and seen better bottom end gains and possible fuel economy from keeping them after a tune.
Or do you remove them and compensate by adding more fuel in early to get the turbo to spool up?
Yep so this exact vehicle was an auto like I said, but the dyno graphs where from the car I did the day before, which was a manual. A couple of years ago I mucked around with a mates car(and a few others at the time), and from 1100-1200rpm it made zero difference having them active or not. Now I don’t usually like bogging the motor foot flat at these kind of revs, hence why I don’t usually start runs that low. Egr is one of those “necessary” things for reducing Nox which is produce in a diesel due to the high compression. As for power, torque, and fuel economy(at any point of the rpm of engine load), anytime we actively reduce the efficiency of the combustion chamber, we reduce all those aspects. Now remembering the main use of the swirl flaps is to help mix egr gasses with fresh air coming into the intake manifold. So when your demanding maximum torque (wot) the factory ecu has the egr shut anyway, which should have the swirl flaps fully open.
So I start all my runs on the dyno at 50kph which is around 1400rpm or so depending on tyres and diff ratios. And like you’ve said, that’s a pretty typical engine rpm for someone who is coasting along, then floors it. So this helps us capture exactly what the motor and response is going to be like out on the road.
In a naturally aspirated engine, some manufacturers do use “tuning” flaps to reduce plenum volume and there for increase air speed, which helps with torque at lower Rpms. How ever this is usually at like 1500rpm to say 2500-3000rpm, given that most NA petrol motors will have a rpm range up to about 5000rpm+
Once we begin talking about turbo charged applications, especially diesels with a much narrower rpm range, that kind of goes out the window. All we wanna do is get that turbo spooling as fast as possible, and get as much fresh air in the combustion chamber as we can.
I can't say I have watched the relationship between egr position and swirl flaps but I believe their main purpose is to increase low rpm air velocities to enhance the 'swirl' of air entering the cylinder, which in turn creates a more equal distribution of fuel in the air and hence a cleaner burn.
Gale Banks did a great video a while back on this. I don't remember if he mentioned the use of swirl flaps and their part in the process but went into pretty good detail on the need for air to 'swirl' in the cylinder.
Is there any other reason you can point to that explains the difference in torque at the bottom end?
Would be interested to see 3 back to back runs (all with a clean inlet and properly functioning swirl flaps) one with flaps held closed, one open and one with them working as intended
@@bennyjahmin3953 the difference in low end torque in this example is due to the swirl flaps being closed and choking the motor. Doing three runs back to back on the dyno wouldn’t show any difference except it makes more power and torque with them open, due to the fact their supposed to be open at anything over 40-50% engine load, when the egr is off. Which is how we perform dyno runs.
The only relation I’v seen between swirl flaps and egr is, they work together. So we can log “on” signal from the ecu to the swirl solenoid, and egr valve percentage. Every time the egr valve opens above 50% or so, we get a “on” signal to with swirl flaps, which closes them. We usually only see this coasting around below 60k/ph, or at idle. As most small capacity diesels are working harder then this to push big 4wd’s along above that speed. And at idle air speed is quite slow so you may get a little more “soot” at idle due to the egr gasses not allowing a clean burn. Which is a big no no for emissions testing.
It’s why we see 1VD Land Cruisers come in from the city and their intakes a clogged shut after less then 100K, because most just fuel around in traffic. Compared to a country cruiser or mine rig that’s had it ass flogged for 300k and the intake is usually cleaner.
@@boostedsagas884
I'm not sure we are quite on the same page. I am only talking about comparing the graphs between 1400-1700rpm. If the swirl flaps are 'choking' the motor then why does it make more boost and torque at a much cleaner afr?
@@bennyjahmin3953 ohhhh yep yep I see what ya mean now. That’s just the turbo has cooled off while I was kicking around for a few minutes chatting to customer and disconnecting swirl flaps. I had no real intention of filming this, if I had of done another run again, we would of seen it’s much happier everywhere compared to before, which is what we see every time we disable them. It wasn’t till the following day we had the same issue again on another car, which had been tuned by two other shops and was still having egt issues. So I figured I’d go back to these dyno sheets of the manual and grab some shots of it to share with everyone. I’ll try next time a manual comes in to grab some better back to back graphs, especially at lower speed. Don’t know if I’ll be able to edit this video now it’s live, but I’ll add it in if I ever get round to it.
Is this the same scenario with the zd30 direct injection?
Similar issue, though the set up is slightly different. There swirl flap is in the cross over pipe on top of intake I believe.
Wpuld this throw a fault and make the engine light come on?
Nope, disconnecting the wiring harness from the solenoid will, as the ecu is monitoring that circuit to make sure it’s still a complete circuit. Hence why we leave it connected. It just take the vacuum line off, disabling it.
Is this the same for zd30 d22 navs I can’t seem to find it
Do zd30’s have a single flap in the cross over pipe. I’m not sure if the navs have it though. There a little different agin those engines compared to the patrols ones.
Does this effect engine braking at all ?
Potentially, though it’s only closing half the manifold, so I don’t think it would truly make a noticeable difference.
Need help. Where can I find it in a ZD30 2014 Super Safari AT? Thanks.
That’s exactly as the video describes mate. Same motor.
@@boostedsagas884 I think mine is DI one. Does this work with it? Thanks
@@donbosi3088 being a 2014 I’m not sure about that. Depending what country you’re in I suppose. In Australia they stopped in 06, 07 onwards was all crd. The DI version has a swirl flap in the cross over tube on top of motor. You can still check it’s operation in similar way, but you’ll have to take intake pipe off and check it pyshically.
What about if you pull the hose off and nothing happens
If nothing happens, then the valve isn’t faulty. It will only hold the swirl flaps shut if that valve has failed internally and stuck fully open. Sending vacuum to the actuator which holds the swirl flap itself shut.
what if i keep the flap open at all times i have a 1KD
That’s literally exactly what we are doing here. If the system is operating normally, it’s not a big deal. But if the vac solenoids are faulty, you either need to replace and confirm everything is working correctly, or bypass and leave them open 24/7 as I do here.
How do you check this on a 4jj1 mate ?
Same same, just different engine layout.
Probably a silly question,why do manufactuers even install that solenoid? Emissions?
Yep, it there for the swirl flaps in the manifold which work in with the egr valve. As the name suggests, it controls the swirl flaps, when the egr valve is open, they close off half the intake ports to help introduce “swirl” to the incoming air, which helps mix the clean air and egr gasses as they enter the combustion chamber.
Appreciate the reply,Where would i find this in a 4jj1 2008 holden Rodeo?
@@damntuff62 the actuator is same spot, back of the intake Manifold.
@@boostedsagas884 for life of me I can't seem to find it,ive looked behind the EGR looked at the end of manifold you certain the 4jj1 has them? sorry to hassle you this way, I'm not a mechanic, diesel are completely new to me
My zd30 won’t get past 100kph I’m praying this fixes it
Depending what year model it is, it’s likely in limp mode from something.
Any advise for zd30 di running lazy?
Find someone who specialises in them. Zd30’s make like 100hp and 200-250nm. Their slow buggers. You need to find someone who knows them well, and they can asses if there’s something wrong, or it’s just normal behaviour.
Is it in the same place on a 4jj1?
Same theory, though slightly different. They still suffer from this issue, though on those, I’d advise removing completely, as the screw have a habit of falling out and causing major engine issue.
Thanks mate
Can you do that on a D22?
If you have swirl flaps, you can check their operation. Bypass is necessary.
Is this possible with Direct injection
These engines are direct injection.
I literally just had my rig remapped and the tuner didn't even pick up the the solinoid was stuffed, although I do have a boost referenced actuator so maybe that's why?
Nope makes no difference how the boost is controlled. If that solenoid is stuffed. It needs to be replaced, or deleted. Some places simply don’t even know it’s a thing that needs to be checked. Hence why I made this video.
Does this work in a yd25 engine
Assuming the engine has swirl flaps, it’s similar principle.
Does the yd25 suffer from this?
Virtually every vehicles with an egr system will have some form of “swirl flaps” system to help generate swirl and mix egr. So yep, they will have a similar thing.
@boostedsagas884 thanks for replying, there's nothing on the yd25 like what you've shown and described
@@morercthanclassy1543 from memory the D40’s do, but D22’s don’t, I think. But there also many different yd25 variety’s out there. Regardless, if it has egr and oil vapour, it will likely have build up in the manifold regardless of swirl flaps or not. Still worth a look and possible clean.
@boostedsagas884 thanks for replying, I was trying to find the pivot rod on mine and for the life of me I couldn't. Only questioning my mechanical abilities
Very interesting, appreciate u takin the time to make these vids, goin 2 check mine now😅👍W.A sub.
Should you do this mod if your EGR isn’t blocked?
Also keen to know this, tempted to do mine now, but my egr isn't blocked
They can jam by EGR gunk or just by being dry. Yes, mod can be done regardless.
Thanks
This is a great question, and honestly, one that I didn’t even think of as all the vehicles I see, are coming in for a tune and have already been blocked or deleted. Now the tests I have performed on the dyno are at WOT, in this situation the egr is not active in the stock ecu. So regardless of egr being blocked or not, if your solenoid is faulty like this one you’ll see a benefit. On the flip side, at part throttle when the egr is trying to do it’s nasty work and the solenoid wants to close off half the intake to help draw and mix the egr, it won’t be able to. I very much doubt it’s going to make a huge difference, and at worst, if it reduces the egr intake to the manifold, well, that’s a bonus.
I feel you’ll be fine blocking it off, even with an active egr.
Thanks for the info mate. I did some research & the swirl valve was designed to encourage better combustion of the EGR gases when it is pumped into the intake so was unsure if this would be detrimental on an unblocked/untuned vehicle. Your reasoning makes sense still as all intake ports open would be a better ratio of clean air vs EGR so would be a better mix going into the engine & might even see slightly lower EGT’s & bit more torque. I’m keen to try it anyway. I can always reverse it. A tune is a future mod so this will be happening regardless down the track.
You explain things really well, thanks for sharing your knowledge, legend!
My zd30 doesn't look anything like that??
Yours maybe a “Di” Direct Injection Patrol & not a “CRD” Common Rail Diesel (the vehicle in the vid is a CRD patrol) & hence your swirl control valve is in a different position- read the next comment down below yours - location is revealed. CRD’s start in 2007…
@Daniel Edinger hey mate yeah it is the DI model it's a 2002.. can't find the comment you speak of man?
@@jasonhaslett3313 Scroll down to the last comment (sorry ) of all the comments & read the post entitled “Same as di zd” - read the replies. I would have copied & paste the reply for you but didn’t know how 😂
@Daniel Edinger cheers Cobb.. keen to give it ago.. did the egr block
@Daniel Edinger hey mate. Could you PM me with a pic or diagram? Can't seem to locate the right actuator.. just seem to make it stall lol
Same as Di zd?
Similar principle, though their set up is slightly different. The actuator and solenoid is up on top of the motor in the cross over pipe.
@@boostedsagas884 The DI has the throttle (engine kill / fun stopper) is in the molded Y piece in rear top. The back actuator is the Swirl while front is the throttle. Most on the DI will remove the butterfly. If you remove it and/or the throttle, they make good points to drill and tap for boost nipples for guages.
In the DI will it move similar when the engine is idling? When I remove the vac line, the butterfly doesn’t move?
DO NOT DO THIS UNLESS YOU HAVE PUT IN THE EGR DELETE PLATE FOR GOD SAKE!
Why?
Doesn’t really matter if you have it blocked or not. If the solenoid is faulty and holding the flaps shut, and you don’t want to have it tuned or ever turn off egr, probably better to fix the solenoid and confirm they are working. If your thinking of having it tuned, then just delete it and move on.
@@boostedsagas884 solenoid is supposed to be closed up to 2600rpm so your test proved it worked as designed, not faulty. The dyno also validated this as power and torque was largely the same at hight rpm when valve is opened. If the valve was faulty, the biggest restriction (and difference on the dyno) would have been felt at higher RPM when the engine is trying to suck the largest amount of air