One drop of liquid soap and warm water all what is needed to restore tackiness. Apply, rub well, wash it off. Let it to air dry. Works for rubbers where tackiness is made not as a coating layer but as a structure of a top sheet. I stopped buying "special" cleaners once realised how simple it is to clean dirt with soap. DHS, Sanwei, Palio, 729 all these rubbers are becoming line new in terms of tackiness.
Thanks. I mostly simply use water. I will say though, the Revo 3 cleaner, is definitively different that other cleaners (which I have used in the past and found limited use for).
I tried Dioctyl Adipate on a very old sheet of Tenergy 80. It seemed to help a bit, but it was hard to really tell. At least it didn't destroy the rubber! I regularly clean with the Revolution 3 cleaner, and I like it.
Found online that Simply Green cleaner works. I cleaned rubber w butterfly cleaner and applied light film of Simply Green as a finish without removing..... works great!
The best Chinese rubber rejuvinators I found were, transmission fluid, and rubber roller rejuvinator used on printers. Never tried them on Japanese style non-tacky rubber. I will say wd40 did not work much at all.
FYI WD-40 isn't used as lubricant. It's a degreaser. Aka, you can use it to clean off lubricant with it, along with grime. You use WD-40 to degrease chains and then apply fresh grease afterward.
Jamz Rez no, rubber is basically a highly tangled mass of very long nonpolar carbon chains. Using any oil based product on it (basically, anything else that is made of carbon chains) will cause chemical degradation. That's why water is suggested. It's all H2O. Technically, water should not react at all with the rubber and therefore keep the rubber completely chemically unchanged. Obviously, water has impurities and such. Also, rubber undergoes deformation over time, which is the real reason that you should technically change rubbers every 6 months or year
Okay heres the thing. 1) if you like tacky rubbers. They are generally cheap af. Please just buy a new sheet if its that dead. Hurricane 3 neo, considered the baseline and the best tacky rubber costs only $25 ish 2) if you have a case for your racket. And you clean your rubber with water and sponge/hand after each session (let it dry then put it case), Hurricane will last you a life time My hurricane 3 has been on my racket for over 4 years. It looks just as good as new. Performance wise, maybe degraded 5-10% over those 4 + years. I could easily just boost this rubber and compensate for that loss of performance. Please. Just take care of your rubber. Prevention is always the best solution
Oh definitively. It is critical to keep H3 away from air as much as possible to prevent oxidation. I carry my paddle in a closed hard-shell case. For daily cleaning, I drip a few drops of water and wipe clean. Every once in a while, I use to Revo 3 cleaner for a deeper clean and tackiness restoration.
Hi Thomas, When not having access to the Revo 3 cleaner, I actually often just apply a couple of drops of water and wipe with my hand (especially nowadays while playing with a mask). Thanks for the tip.
It is very usefull, i am also interested in 'lasting time' of 'revolution' after the application.. Is it necessary to do revoution restore' before every training, or just monthly / quarterly / 20hours play/ 'ratio' ?
Wondering if the cleaner itself is considered legal. From what I can tell you just applied the "cleaner" without removing the cleaner afterwards. So perhaps it's the cleaner that is tacky not the rubber. Looks like a fun bat to use but wondering if it is legal to use according to TT rules.
In the strictest sense, as I interpret ITTF rules, ANY TREATMENT that alters the properties of a rubber, is illegal. The cleaner softens the topsheet imo, thus changes it. But let's face it, the ITTF can't even enforce the booster rules. There is no way they could enforce this.....
Plastic balls generates static that collects table and floor dust which, I think, forms a barrier that downgrades rubber friction and performance. If stroke, timing and spin is read correctly prior to a point lost, wipe rubber with sweat on hand and fan dry for the next point. However, wiping with a wet chamois at the end of the game will give a much better result (but always fan dry before use). After all, if this doesn't help, replace the rubber that might be beyond help. Good care such as clean and case after play should prolong the life. Any better idea? Sense came after practicing with 8 blades (different rubbers, old and new) for a few months during Covid-19 with robot and 260 balls.
Thing is at club Level, who would know you were treating rubbers. ? Moreover, I would say it's good to try and recycle rubbers instead of throwing them away. (Better for environment). Actually, ive a sheet of stiga chop and drive that I've had for years upon years. It's still very grippy and plays very well indeed. I think it's that its just a quality rubber and doesnt really wear out so much. A lot of cheap rubbers are crap, even expensive ones. As an example, I purchased tsp p1r. It's lasted barely a season and I've lost 4 pips already. That's crap. Even tenergy wears out. It's about money and profit. They want you to buy rubbers. The older rubbers were better I think.
Here’s another DIY tip. This is how I seal my own blade from sweat stains at the handle. It’s only at the handle portion of the blade. Don’t do it at the rubber area where you are going to glue it. 1. Take a piece of unscented white candle and rub it LIGHTLY on the handle like a crayon. 2. Take a lighter and melt the wax into the pores of the wood. While it is still wet, take a piece of cloth and wipe it and smear it into the wood. Be careful, wax in liquid state is hot! 3. By now, depending on how hard and how much “crayon” you have rubbed into the wood, it may have “water-like stains” from the wax and the wood becomes darker in color. 4. Sandpaper it lightly until the wood is back to its original color. 5. Put one more VERY LIGHT coat of wax and repeat the process and use an even lighter sandpaper to finish it smooth. It will look very close to the original. Maybe 1% darker than original. But your racket will have a hard time having brown sweat stains because the wax is in the pores of the wood. You may still feel 0.5% wax on the handle, but it is fine and is the ideal state. Don’t remove it 100% to the point of getting the abrasive wood grain feeling again. Over time, that waxy feeling will disappear completely and will feel 100% like wood again.
In the real match when your palm is sweating the function of untreated wood is to absorb that sweat. Stiga handles are exceptionally good at that. It is generally a bad idea to seal, or to sandpaper or to treat / seal your handle. Absolutely not. The handle will become slippery.
I wouldn't recommend using WD40 long-term (or short-term) neither unless in a pinch. The inexpensive and economic Revolution 3 cleaner is a much better - and legal - choice.
WD40 is not a lubricant. like its name says it's a Water Displacer. it's made to unlock or ease metal friction parts that are rusted or nasty. and after you use a real lubricant which WD40 eases the penetration of real lubricant.
Thanks. The tackiness lasts for a couple of days at least. I apply a couple of drops of the Revo 3 cleaner every 1 to 3 weeks or so. I don't like using it too often as it softens the topsheet (or at least that's how it feels to me)
Most of the time, I simply use a couple of drops of water and the palm of my hand (especially during C19-times where we have to play with masks and cannot breathe on the rubber). For a deeper clean I use the specially formulated Revo 3 cleaner which is a type of detergent.
@@ThePongProfessor Anyway, The rejuvenator is useless. I've tried it, but the tackiness stayed the same. I've also tried it on European rubbers, but again the same "nothing happened" result.
Hi, Olive oil worked surprisingly well on the 20-yr old sheet of Mark V that I had. However, I would recommend the Revolution 3 rejuvenator that I discuss in the video, if you can get it. Thx, PPPP
ThePongProfessor , in time I've found a way to remove oxidation from H3 rubbers . It was cleaning with old Butterfly Combo cleaner after training and putting protective sheats . After 4-5 training sesions , which were 3 times a week, oxidation was not visible . Sadly , new Butterfly Combo Cleaner (VOC free) doesn't do anything like that , and old one can't be found on market. Do you maby know any other way to even slightly remove oxidation?
Have you tried the REvo 3 cleaner? Please consider supporting this channel via the following link: www.buymeacoffee.com/thepongprof (no fees to you; creator keeps 95% of donation). Every little bit helps.
At the end of life of your rubber. Omega 3 oil+ Ballistol applied with 1000 Grid sandpaper for 3 Minutes. Soak in overnight. Its not legal for competion and smells fishy but it works.
How long did the restored tackiness on your Mark V last after you treated it with your Revolution 3? And how long does the restored tackiness last on the other rubbers you've used Revolution 3 on?
Yes. On Tenergy 05. Surprisingly good for dried out but otherwise good condition rubber that hasn't gone hard. But of course that isn't a tacky rubber. Can't afford to replace them every season.
There is another quick way to improve the tack of the rubber:. To use the packing tape to stick on rubber for overnight, carefully peeling off them before playing... It's also very tacky.
One drop of liquid soap and warm water all what is needed to restore tackiness. Apply, rub well, wash it off. Let it to air dry. Works for rubbers where tackiness is made not as a coating layer but as a structure of a top sheet. I stopped buying "special" cleaners once realised how simple it is to clean dirt with soap. DHS, Sanwei, Palio, 729 all these rubbers are becoming line new in terms of tackiness.
Thanks. I mostly simply use water. I will say though, the Revo 3 cleaner, is definitively different that other cleaners (which I have used in the past and found limited use for).
You forgot that simple water contains chlorine and it destroys the resin over time
That didn't work to restore tackiness of my 729 rubbers.
@@yt_9584 that means there is nothing left to restore
I tried Dioctyl Adipate on a very old sheet of Tenergy 80. It seemed to help a bit, but it was hard to really tell. At least it didn't destroy the rubber! I regularly clean with the Revolution 3 cleaner, and I like it.
Yeah, given the low price of Revo 3 there probably is no point in experimenting too much.
@@ThePongProfessor I had some available from another hobby, thought, why not?
I've been waiting to find a video like this for a very long time, thanks buddy
Glad you found this useful.
Thank you for posting this useful video!!! I'm glad I found a store that sells Revolution 3 in Australia.
That's great !!!
A very good cleaner is spin max. Puts the grip back into the rubber, but works better on tacky /sticky rubbers.
ok
Where i can find spinmax😢
Found online that Simply Green cleaner works. I cleaned rubber w butterfly cleaner and applied light film of Simply Green as a finish without removing..... works great!
Thanks for sharing! I have to try that at some point.
The best Chinese rubber rejuvinators I found were, transmission fluid, and rubber roller rejuvinator used on printers. Never tried them on Japanese style non-tacky rubber. I will say wd40 did not work much at all.
Those are very interesting suggestions. I can totally see the roller rejuvenator work fantastically. Thanks for the suggestions.
Looks like this is not only my idea. Transmission fluid is formulated to preserve plastics and rubbers.
@AmericanHinoki How do you use transmission fluid on the rubber? What are the tips?
FYI WD-40 isn't used as lubricant. It's a degreaser. Aka, you can use it to clean off lubricant with it, along with grime. You use WD-40 to degrease chains and then apply fresh grease afterward.
does it mean is it okay to use wd 40 on ur rubber and that wont destroy it?
Jamz Rez no, rubber is basically a highly tangled mass of very long nonpolar carbon chains. Using any oil based product on it (basically, anything else that is made of carbon chains) will cause chemical degradation. That's why water is suggested. It's all H2O. Technically, water should not react at all with the rubber and therefore keep the rubber completely chemically unchanged. Obviously, water has impurities and such. Also, rubber undergoes deformation over time, which is the real reason that you should technically change rubbers every 6 months or year
ok
its actually a cleaner - fish oil
@@tjkim1999 what about silicon oil? it is used on all kinds of rubbers to prolong their live
Okay heres the thing.
1) if you like tacky rubbers. They are generally cheap af. Please just buy a new sheet if its that dead. Hurricane 3 neo, considered the baseline and the best tacky rubber costs only $25 ish
2) if you have a case for your racket. And you clean your rubber with water and sponge/hand after each session (let it dry then put it case),
Hurricane will last you a life time
My hurricane 3 has been on my racket for over 4 years. It looks just as good as new. Performance wise, maybe degraded 5-10% over those 4 + years. I could easily just boost this rubber and compensate for that loss of performance.
Please. Just take care of your rubber. Prevention is always the best solution
Oh definitively. It is critical to keep H3 away from air as much as possible to prevent oxidation. I carry my paddle in a closed hard-shell case. For daily cleaning, I drip a few drops of water and wipe clean. Every once in a while, I use to Revo 3 cleaner for a deeper clean and tackiness restoration.
Do you use your breath and hand during training to wipe of the dust or don't you?
@@hdluktv3593Always !!! Ma Long, FZD, Timo Boll, Lebrun's brothers.....Everybody that play TT do it !!!!
A tiny bit of honey rubbed in and then clean with a damp cloth. Restores the original tacky resin?
I have never heard this trick before 🤣
Try applying water with a sponge. Pretty cheap and better than olive oil or WD40!
Hi Thomas, When not having access to the Revo 3 cleaner, I actually often just apply a couple of drops of water and wipe with my hand (especially nowadays while playing with a mask). Thanks for the tip.
This is reasonable. Can you use a little soap?
I’ll use dawn and Some cold water on a paper towel and it works really well. Alit better then jus my using water
Professor, we need a base case of just water for comparison.
Water works ok, but not as well as the Revo 3 cleaner
It is very usefull, i am also interested in 'lasting time' of 'revolution' after the application.. Is it necessary to do revoution restore' before every training, or just monthly / quarterly / 20hours play/ 'ratio' ?
I use it occasionally. Once per week is probably about right.
Wondering if the cleaner itself is considered legal. From what I can tell you just applied the "cleaner" without removing the cleaner afterwards. So perhaps it's the cleaner that is tacky not the rubber. Looks like a fun bat to use but wondering if it is legal to use according to TT rules.
In the strictest sense, as I interpret ITTF rules, ANY TREATMENT that alters the properties of a rubber, is illegal. The cleaner softens the topsheet imo, thus changes it. But let's face it, the ITTF can't even enforce the booster rules. There is no way they could enforce this.....
@@ThePongProfessor thank you for sharing your opinion on this topic.
Plastic balls generates static that collects table and floor dust which, I think, forms a barrier that downgrades rubber friction and performance. If stroke, timing and spin is read correctly prior to a point lost, wipe rubber with sweat on hand and fan dry for the next point. However, wiping with a wet chamois at the end of the game will give a much better result (but always fan dry before use). After all, if this doesn't help, replace the rubber that might be beyond help. Good care such as clean and case after play should prolong the life. Any better idea? Sense came after practicing with 8 blades (different rubbers, old and new) for a few months during Covid-19 with robot and 260 balls.
The Revolution 3 cleaner works very well
Hey Patrick, what's the blade? LOL.... Nice thick ST handle!
Interesting experiment :-)
Andro Temper Tech OFF+. It is a beast of a blade.
@@ThePongProfessor Awesome, thanks!
When the rubber is new it is tacky. Clean it with wd40 or oil and it loses its "tackyness "?
I have found that water restores the tackiness
Could you use the oil first and then the Revolutioniser 3?
You use oil for boosting, and Revolution 3 cleaner for the topsheet
Thing is at club Level, who would know you were treating rubbers. ? Moreover, I would say it's good to try and recycle rubbers instead of throwing them away. (Better for environment).
Actually, ive a sheet of stiga chop and drive that I've had for years upon years. It's still very grippy and plays very well indeed. I think it's that its just a quality rubber and doesnt really wear out so much. A lot of cheap rubbers are crap, even expensive ones. As an example, I purchased tsp p1r. It's lasted barely a season and I've lost 4 pips already. That's crap. Even tenergy wears out. It's about money and profit. They want you to buy rubbers. The older rubbers were better I think.
Cool.
The older rubbers were extremely good quality wise Lasted for years
Here’s another DIY tip. This is how I seal my own blade from sweat stains at the handle. It’s only at the handle portion of the blade. Don’t do it at the rubber area where you are going to glue it.
1. Take a piece of unscented white candle and rub it LIGHTLY on the handle like a crayon.
2. Take a lighter and melt the wax into the pores of the wood. While it is still wet, take a piece of cloth and wipe it and smear it into the wood. Be careful, wax in liquid state is hot!
3. By now, depending on how hard and how much “crayon” you have rubbed into the wood, it may have “water-like stains” from the wax and the wood becomes darker in color.
4. Sandpaper it lightly until the wood is back to its original color.
5. Put one more VERY LIGHT coat of wax and repeat the process and use an even lighter sandpaper to finish it smooth.
It will look very close to the original. Maybe 1% darker than original. But your racket will have a hard time having brown sweat stains because the wax is in the pores of the wood. You may still feel 0.5% wax on the handle, but it is fine and is the ideal state. Don’t remove it 100% to the point of getting the abrasive wood grain feeling again. Over time, that waxy feeling will disappear completely and will feel 100% like wood again.
Never heard of this approach. Thanks for sharing.
In the real match when your palm is sweating the function of untreated wood is to absorb that sweat. Stiga handles are exceptionally good at that. It is generally a bad idea to seal, or to sandpaper or to treat / seal your handle. Absolutely not. The handle will become slippery.
Bad idea to use WD-40 it dries rubber and destroys the material long-term
I wouldn't recommend using WD40 long-term (or short-term) neither unless in a pinch. The inexpensive and economic Revolution 3 cleaner is a much better - and legal - choice.
what do u recommend?
Water, only water.
WD40 is not a lubricant. like its name says it's a Water Displacer. it's made to unlock or ease metal friction parts that are rusted or nasty. and after you use a real lubricant which WD40 eases the penetration of real lubricant.
Fair enough !!
can I use coconut oil?
I haven't tried, but I would worry using it, given that its melting point is relatively high (solid at room temperature, right?).
Great review, thx! How long will the tackiness last after applying Revolution 3?
Thanks. The tackiness lasts for a couple of days at least. I apply a couple of drops of the Revo 3 cleaner every 1 to 3 weeks or so. I don't like using it too often as it softens the topsheet (or at least that's how it feels to me)
Thanks very much Patrick!
Thx for video... Can i apply revolution 3 on mark v
@@sunilkpatil2012 Absolutely, just keep in mind the rubber will not become (much) grippier than when new.
Great video, much appreciated Patrick.
Did it make your rubber more tacky than it was originally? Or just restored it back to its original state?
Just restoring it partially
How about water and a small drop of soap to get smear layer off
Most of the time, I simply use a couple of drops of water and the palm of my hand (especially during C19-times where we have to play with masks and cannot breathe on the rubber). For a deeper clean I use the specially formulated Revo 3 cleaner which is a type of detergent.
This works 100% for all my rubbers.
my hurricane 3 (commercial) doesn't even stick to a ball after 3 months (daily use). and i can't say it's even "slightly damaged" or not.
Try a couple of drops of water or the Revo 3 cleaner. It helps a lot with tackiness.
All you need is Magic eraser sponge and one drop of soap
Never heard this before !!
oh it has somthing in sponge, you don't need soap, only wet @@ThePongProfessor
You can olso sanitize the rubber
ok.
Useful tips. Much needed for peddlers
Glad it was helpful!
I've seen some people use UHU glue to restore tackiness.
I have no experience with that.
@@ThePongProfessor Anyway, The rejuvenator is useless. I've tried it, but the tackiness stayed the same. I've also tried it on European rubbers, but again the same "nothing happened" result.
@@morhafs440 Let's agree to disagree.
what is uhu glue?
Me perdí el momento cuando le aplicó los líquidos, alguien los vio?, penca tu video,
Just a couple of drops.
4:38
how to clean handle?
Damp cloth? I never cleaned my handle.
Magic sponge
I was wondering how you can get the tacky back even though my rackets are farely new.
Buy the revolution 3 cleaner that I speak about in this video
BUY A TACKY RUBBER SINCE U BOUGHT IT GENIUS PROBLEM SOLVED
Hello Patrick, how did you apply the revolution cleaner on the rubber? Did you use a sponge?
No, just a couple of drops straight on the rubber, and then use the palm of my hand to spread it out until dry
What blade is that? Seems like hurricane long 5
That's an Andro Temper Tech OFF+ that I had a woodwork reduce in size.
What did u do for Mark V?
Hi,
Olive oil worked surprisingly well on the 20-yr old sheet of Mark V that I had. However, I would recommend the Revolution 3 rejuvenator that I discuss in the video, if you can get it.
Thx,
PPPP
@@ThePongProfessor hey! can I use coconut oil instead?
@@jasonwalon5470 I have no experience with that, not have I heard anyone use that before. Try it out on an old sheet first!!
@@ThePongProfessor yeh, I tried it. nothing too fancy, it just made my rubber slightly tacky and now it looks newer. not the best way
I've been using WD-40 for years and my racquet has not squeaked even once.
Ha
lemon juice does the trick, but i just bought some new ones
I have never heard about lemon juice :)
ThePongProfessor , in time I've found a way to remove oxidation from H3 rubbers . It was cleaning with old Butterfly Combo cleaner after training and putting protective sheats . After 4-5 training sesions , which were 3 times a week, oxidation was not visible . Sadly , new Butterfly Combo Cleaner (VOC free) doesn't do anything like that , and old one can't be found on market. Do you maby know any other way to even slightly remove oxidation?
I think the Revolution 3 cleaner can reverse some mild oxidation
Have you tried the REvo 3 cleaner?
Please consider supporting this channel via the following link: www.buymeacoffee.com/thepongprof (no fees to you; creator keeps 95% of donation). Every little bit helps.
Put some water based lubricant on the rubber.. Perfect on my old dignics 09c
excellent.
Thank you! Cheers!
At the end of life of your rubber. Omega 3 oil+ Ballistol applied with 1000 Grid sandpaper for 3 Minutes.
Soak in overnight. Its not legal for competion and smells fishy but it works.
Never heard this before !!! Wauw.
Is stigas cleaner good?
It is ok, but I prefer Revo 3
I would think the olive oil would render the rubber useless if it is absorbing the oil.
I would never use olive oil but anything than a really old rubber (I also tried on a 25 yr old Mark V and it actually worked).
Where are you from I like your accent
Originally from Denmark
Have u tried the baby oil method?
No, I haven't. I've only heard of baby oil for boosting. I've tried olive oil with surprisingly good effects on a very old Mark V sheet.
How long did the restored tackiness on your Mark V last after you treated it with your Revolution 3?
And how long does the restored tackiness last on the other rubbers you've used Revolution 3 on?
It is definitively a short-term improvement. Probably 1-2 sessions.
This is nowhere to be found. Probably only in US.
What are you referring to?
Anybody tried castor oil?
I haven't. I am fully satisfied using REvolution 3 cleaner
anyone tried baby oil?
Only tried olive oil and that was a mixed success. I am using water or Revo 3.
Yes. On Tenergy 05. Surprisingly good for dried out but otherwise good condition rubber that hasn't gone hard. But of course that isn't a tacky rubber. Can't afford to replace them every season.
There is another quick way to improve the tack of the rubber:. To use the packing tape to stick on rubber for overnight, carefully peeling off them before playing... It's also very tacky.
I could see that remove dirt very effectively, but not really reverse mild oxidation.
Damn. I watched this at twice the speed and it still felt draggy asf. Did this have to be 10 minutes long?
Wtf be quiet
Try fast forward, wise guy
Yeah, thankfully YT has the option to speed up or slow down videos as one sees fit. No reason to complain about free content :)
Olive oil isnt a chemical!
As a chemist, I have to object. Everything is, literally, a chemical or a mixture of chemicals.
You are correct. But an Element is not a chemical in theory, right? @@ThePongProfessor
🌎🇪🇨🙂👍
Thx
🙈
😆