Funny I have the Yinhe T4 looks almost the same but has 4 corbon layers a true monster. Just arrived today and I put a 2.1 Yinhe Moon Medium and 1.9 Uranus Poly on it, good to know how to restore it once it looks that old. Propper Cleaning there! :D
Actually, if you coat it now, it will never look like this. The coating will keep your handle bright, clean and shiny. Also, it will prevent it from absorbing your sweat, and won't make your blade heavier in the long run. I had an old Joola Kool blade, I bought it at 85 grams. After 15 years of use, without coating, it weighs now at 100 grams!!! Lol. That's when I decided on coating all my blades.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 Yeah i coated it twice but not the handle my hands get to sweaty for that sadly, I have a few custom made blades replikas which are totally sealed and I ended up putting a grip tape on it. So for the yinhe I didnt seal the handle although I thought about it a bit. Thx for the heads up. Wasnt aware that the sweat adds weight over time but it does make sense. Might actually seal em all and than put grip tape on em. :D
@@ajoydas-Watch-It Yeah, I didn't use to be bothered with sweaty hands. But for the past few weeks, my hands have been getting massively sweaty when playing. Experimenting now on what to do about that. If I find something that works other than a grip tape, I'll let you know.
I use white candle wax. I used a racket for over 20 years and it kind of froze in time. The only sweat stains were the ones that were already in before I waxed it. It stopped turning brown and grimy. It never got to this state. And the best part is, you still feel the wood grain. I rake a white unscented candle over the handle like a crayon and then take a lighter to melt it into the wood pores. I use a cloth to smear the liquid wax. Then I take sandpaper to sand off the top wax layer. All the wax is in the pores.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 No. If you sandpaper it, it will feel like wood, but the wax is already embedded into the wood fibers and pores, especially if you use a cloth to smear it in when it is still in liquid form. Also don't drip wax all over it like I did on my first experiment on my childhood Stiga Clipper from over 20 years ago. The first time I did it, it has "water stain" marks all over it and I panicked. I scraped the wax off and sanded it down back to the normal wood color after 2 hours. I found out that it is not necessary. On all my newer blades, I just LIGHTLY crayon the candle over it and melt it with fire. And then smear with cloth. Then lightly sand it until the feel is right. Is about 30 minutes in total. I put 2 VERY LIGHT layers of wax on all my rackets.
Why glue and not a TT varnish/sealer like Joola or I-Sure etc...? Also, why would you polish the handle? doesn't that make the handle slippery? Thanks.
Super glue is thinner, so it gets absorbed by the wood better. And most of all, it's a lot cheaper then any TT branded sealer. It's a preference, I like the feel of smooth plastic handle better than wood. Also, it prevents the blade from absorbing your sweat. I have a Joola Kool blade, about 15 years ago, it was 85 grams in weight. After years of use, absorbing sweat, now it's 110 grams. So I do recommend sealing to keep the handle clean and retain the blade's qualities.
Are you sure that the sealing makes it less slippery? It looks great, but i have quite sweaty hands and i'm worried that it''ll just slip out when i'm doing a big forehand swing.
From my experience, old dirty handles become very slippery and uncomfortable to hold. Sealing makes it feel like hard plastic. But if you sweat excessively, then it may make it more slippery for you. There are days when my hands become excessively sweaty, what I did is I stick a small piece of sandpaper at the bottom part of the handle on the backhand side. This really worked for me. But on most days, my hands are pretty dry.
@@Jk-ov8fg Do you mean from the Rubber or from the Blade? I don't usually get this problem with the blade, as I put on a thin clear coat of clear paint (acrylic spray paint) on the blade face, which prevents glue from staying after removing the rubber. And on occasion that it does, I do the same as you and use my fingers. Sometimes, painter's tape or even duck tape help to capture the glue and remove it from the blade face. Try it out. As for the rubber, this is very hard to remove. For rubber with really thick build up, I dip the rubber on a pan of Paraffin Oil for about 24 hours. This softens the glue and then I scrape it off. It doesn't completely remove all the glue, but it does make it a lot thinner. Warning though, this will make your rubber grow, you can use it as is, which makes it feel boosted, or wait for it to shrink back to its original shape.
For the face of the blade, usually, you wouldn't need to reseal it at all, as the wood will absorb the sealer and keep it there permanently. But there may be cases where the sealer gets peeled off. Although, I have never seen it happen.
Hi, sorry, it's just a personal hobby. I don't provide this service to the public. But if you have further questions about the process, please feel free to ask.
Yang sinampolan kong raketa is mga 15 years old na. Nangingitim na din yung handle. Baka kaya pa, depende kung kano kalalim sumuot yung dumi. Pero usually nasa ibabaw lang yung dumi.
Hello, i have an old blade that i would like to clean from dust and dirt build up which darkens areas in the blade, what is the best solution/material to rub and clean the blade please?
Most of that dirt and oil and grime are embedded into the wood. So you might need to sand a bit of the surface until the color of the racket lightens. I'm not aware of any product that would be able to remove the dirt that's embedded into the grains.
Any Cyanoacrylate Glue should do. You may even find it as Mighty Bond, Superglue or CA Glue. You can order in AliExpress from China. The thinner the glue, the better.
In my country there are famous glues with cyanoacrylate, but it sticks immediately. If you pass a piece of paper like you did and the paper sticks to the wood, along with your fingers. Impossible to do what you did.
Cyanoacrylate hardens with moisture. So if you keep the tissue and the surrounding dry, it should work. You could also order from AliExpress, if you think it's the local CA Glue formula that's the issue. But mainly, it's moisture that's the problem. If the tissue is even a bit wet, the CA glue will harden immediately.
Not sure about that. The absorbed sweat makes the blade heavy overtime. I have a Joola Kool which I bought in the late 2000s, it used to be 85 grams. Now it's 102 grams. If you want to make it last, you'll really need to seal it. You can use a cloth wrap, the ones used in Badminton rackets, if you sweat a lot in the palms.
@@androixus10 Yes definitely! It is so satisfying to see your beloved old rackets look new again. I also restored my Joola Kool. I even replaced the brand label, printed on photo paper. photos.app.goo.gl/oHrJCC9TXWKynrpm6
Not ALL of it off. Leave a thin layer. Although, the wood absorbs the ca glue, especially if its the thin kind. So it will still keep all the dirt off even if you sand it down to the wood.
Thank you very much man. Now my bet look as new👍👍
Nice!!!! Glad this video helped!!! Cheers!
Funny I have the Yinhe T4 looks almost the same but has 4 corbon layers a true monster. Just arrived today and I put a 2.1 Yinhe Moon Medium and 1.9 Uranus Poly on it, good to know how to restore it once it looks that old. Propper Cleaning there! :D
Actually, if you coat it now, it will never look like this. The coating will keep your handle bright, clean and shiny. Also, it will prevent it from absorbing your sweat, and won't make your blade heavier in the long run.
I had an old Joola Kool blade, I bought it at 85 grams. After 15 years of use, without coating, it weighs now at 100 grams!!! Lol. That's when I decided on coating all my blades.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 Yeah i coated it twice but not the handle my hands get to sweaty for that sadly, I have a few custom made blades replikas which are totally sealed and I ended up putting a grip tape on it. So for the yinhe I didnt seal the handle although I thought about it a bit. Thx for the heads up. Wasnt aware that the sweat adds weight over time but it does make sense. Might actually seal em all and than put grip tape on em. :D
@@ajoydas-Watch-It Yeah, I didn't use to be bothered with sweaty hands. But for the past few weeks, my hands have been getting massively sweaty when playing. Experimenting now on what to do about that. If I find something that works other than a grip tape, I'll let you know.
I use white candle wax. I used a racket for over 20 years and it kind of froze in time. The only sweat stains were the ones that were already in before I waxed it.
It stopped turning brown and grimy. It never got to this state. And the best part is, you still feel the wood grain.
I rake a white unscented candle over the handle like a crayon and then take a lighter to melt it into the wood pores. I use a cloth to smear the liquid wax. Then I take sandpaper to sand off the top wax layer. All the wax is in the pores.
Nice!!! I should try that. It doesn't become slippery?
@@phtabletennisvlog4473
No. If you sandpaper it, it will feel like wood, but the wax is already embedded into the wood fibers and pores, especially if you use a cloth to smear it in when it is still in liquid form.
Also don't drip wax all over it like I did on my first experiment on my childhood Stiga Clipper from over 20 years ago.
The first time I did it, it has "water stain" marks all over it and I panicked. I scraped the wax off and sanded it down back to the normal wood color after 2 hours.
I found out that it is not necessary. On all my newer blades, I just LIGHTLY crayon the candle over it and melt it with fire. And then smear with cloth. Then lightly sand it until the feel is right. Is about 30 minutes in total.
I put 2 VERY LIGHT layers of wax on all my rackets.
@@DaigoParry Cool!!! I'll try that on my next racket! Thanks!!!
Good job bro!
Thanks! Hehe. Buti sakto maganda yung resulta ko nung rinecord ko. Hindi pumalpak. Haha.
Why glue and not a TT varnish/sealer like Joola or I-Sure etc...? Also, why would you polish the handle? doesn't that make the handle slippery? Thanks.
Super glue is thinner, so it gets absorbed by the wood better. And most of all, it's a lot cheaper then any TT branded sealer.
It's a preference, I like the feel of smooth plastic handle better than wood. Also, it prevents the blade from absorbing your sweat.
I have a Joola Kool blade, about 15 years ago, it was 85 grams in weight. After years of use, absorbing sweat, now it's 110 grams. So I do recommend sealing to keep the handle clean and retain the blade's qualities.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 is 502 or X2000 good choices? Can you recommend one if the ones I mentioned wouldn't work well? Thank you!
Too much work to polish the handle. Any quick method to clean the handle without removing the rubbers?
Are you sure that the sealing makes it less slippery? It looks great, but i have quite sweaty hands and i'm worried that it''ll just slip out when i'm doing a big forehand swing.
From my experience, old dirty handles become very slippery and uncomfortable to hold. Sealing makes it feel like hard plastic. But if you sweat excessively, then it may make it more slippery for you.
There are days when my hands become excessively sweaty, what I did is I stick a small piece of sandpaper at the bottom part of the handle on the backhand side. This really worked for me. But on most days, my hands are pretty dry.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 ok thanks!
May I know how do you remove the glue of the racket?
my finger is in pain everytime I want to change new rubbers
@@Jk-ov8fg Do you mean from the Rubber or from the Blade?
I don't usually get this problem with the blade, as I put on a thin clear coat of clear paint (acrylic spray paint) on the blade face, which prevents glue from staying after removing the rubber. And on occasion that it does, I do the same as you and use my fingers. Sometimes, painter's tape or even duck tape help to capture the glue and remove it from the blade face. Try it out.
As for the rubber, this is very hard to remove. For rubber with really thick build up, I dip the rubber on a pan of Paraffin Oil for about 24 hours. This softens the glue and then I scrape it off. It doesn't completely remove all the glue, but it does make it a lot thinner. Warning though, this will make your rubber grow, you can use it as is, which makes it feel boosted, or wait for it to shrink back to its original shape.
Should I re-seal my blade every time that I change the rubber?
For the face of the blade, usually, you wouldn't need to reseal it at all, as the wood will absorb the sealer and keep it there permanently. But there may be cases where the sealer gets peeled off. Although, I have never seen it happen.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 thank you
Where are you located sir here in MNL? Can you seal my blade sir?
Hi, sorry, it's just a personal hobby. I don't provide this service to the public.
But if you have further questions about the process, please feel free to ask.
boss gagana bapo yan sa raketa na nangingitim na? yung parang nababad po sa pawis gnun po kas eyung nangyarin saken e
Yang sinampolan kong raketa is mga 15 years old na. Nangingitim na din yung handle. Baka kaya pa, depende kung kano kalalim sumuot yung dumi. Pero usually nasa ibabaw lang yung dumi.
Hello, i have an old blade that i would like to clean from dust and dirt build up which darkens areas in the blade, what is the best solution/material to rub and clean the blade please?
Most of that dirt and oil and grime are embedded into the wood. So you might need to sand a bit of the surface until the color of the racket lightens. I'm not aware of any product that would be able to remove the dirt that's embedded into the grains.
Anong glue to?😮
Eto mismo, mga super glue na nabibili sa shopee. Pero pwede mighty bond. Piliin mo lang yung manipis, wag yung gel type.
what is the name of the glue sir
Any Cyanoacrylate Glue should do. You may even find it as Mighty Bond, Superglue or CA Glue. You can order in AliExpress from China. The thinner the glue, the better.
In my country there are famous glues with cyanoacrylate, but it sticks immediately. If you pass a piece of paper like you did and the paper sticks to the wood, along with your fingers. Impossible to do what you did.
Cyanoacrylate hardens with moisture. So if you keep the tissue and the surrounding dry, it should work. You could also order from AliExpress, if you think it's the local CA Glue formula that's the issue. But mainly, it's moisture that's the problem. If the tissue is even a bit wet, the CA glue will harden immediately.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 Yes, it has nothing to do with humidity. All the formulas in my country are fast drying. Thank you very much for the reply.
@@paulispaul1974 Oh ok. Then yeah, try ordering one from Aliexpress. Might be even cheaper than your local ones. Cheers!
looks nice but wood in the handle is made porous so it will absorb sweat.
Not sure about that. The absorbed sweat makes the blade heavy overtime. I have a Joola Kool which I bought in the late 2000s, it used to be 85 grams. Now it's 102 grams. If you want to make it last, you'll really need to seal it.
You can use a cloth wrap, the ones used in Badminton rackets, if you sweat a lot in the palms.
@@phtabletennisvlog4473 indeed. good thinking for long term. By the way this reminds me of my racket of 20 years. I should restore it just for fun.
@@androixus10 Yes definitely! It is so satisfying to see your beloved old rackets look new again. I also restored my Joola Kool. I even replaced the brand label, printed on photo paper. photos.app.goo.gl/oHrJCC9TXWKynrpm6
madulas ba paps?
Hindi siya madulas. Feeling niya parang hard plastic. Mas madulas ang lumang maduming blade.
Bang brp kayunya. Merek apa
Kayunya agak lembut, terbuat dari 1 lapis Ayous. Brand-nya Yinhe.
My clients never allow sandpaper to sand the racquet handle
May I ask why? How do you remove top surface dirt/grime? Thanks!
Шипы с двух сторон
do it for me
Sure thing!
Apply glue then sand it all off.
Not ALL of it off. Leave a thin layer. Although, the wood absorbs the ca glue, especially if its the thin kind. So it will still keep all the dirt off even if you sand it down to the wood.