Making Enclosure Panels Using PCBs - Phil's Lab
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- How to design PCBs to make low-cost, front- and rear-panels for 'standardised' enclosures. Including sizing, hole positioning, manufacturing details and options, and assembly example.
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[TIMESTAMPS]
00:00 Introduction
00:25 Example Project
01:12 Enclosure (Hammond)
02:36 PCBs as Front/Rear Panels
03:35 Alternatives
04:01 Altium Designer Free Trial
04:32 Fitting PCB to Enclosure
07:15 Connector Placement
08:12 Panel PCB Outline
10:53 DXF/DWG Import Alternative
11:11 Panel Thickness
11:38 Mounting Holes
14:33 Connector Hole Positions
20:56 Overlays and Artwork
22:29 Arbitrary Cutouts
23:03 PCB Specifications (Ordering)
24:41 Enclosure Assembly
25:20 Outro - Наука та технологія
Thanks for watching!
As you may have seen, I uploaded a video last week (USB-C PD) that I had to take down after about an hour, due to a sudden audio-sync issue. I've made a slightly more involved and updated USB-C PD project and am waiting for the PCBs, then will remake the video, which I hope to release this month.
Marvelous!!!
Thanks for your thoroughly envolved hard work!
appreciated
Great tip. PCB panels have become quite popular for eurorack synthesizer modules in the last few years, even for production modules. The PCB is often mounted parallel to the front so it's possible to generate holes and alignment straight from the PCB layout (with some annotation and/or scripting). And there’s fun things you can do with solder mask or leaving out copper to shine LEDs through.
Yep!
Somewhat related - also wanted to make some 500-series audio gear, where these panels would come in handy.
@@PhilsLab So many rabbit holes, so little time :)
Thank you so much for sharing all your valuable knowledge! I have learnt so much from watching your videos. Using PCB's for panels is such a smart idea. So much easier and better looking than 3D printing or milling.
Thank you very much, Gary - hope you can use these in your own upcoming designs!
Great video as always. Many thanks for Your educational materials, this helps me a lot.
Thank you very much - glad to hear that!
Just in time to make an enclosure to my Class-D amplifier! Fantastic! Thanks!
What an inspiration you are! I hoping to get some day any similar level you have!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for showing the tips about getting the dimensions right.
Amazing! Will really add a professional look to some projects!
Thank you!
Love this, will definitely try this, thanks again!
I've used aluminum panels and the result is great. If needed I've countersunk the screw holes. I've got a small drill press, which is ideal for this. You have to drill a small bit at a time and test with the screw in between, until it sits flush. If a Faraday's cage is important, make sure the that screws make good electrical contact with the panel. This happens automatically if you countersink the screw. I recommend measuring continuity with a multimeter. Especially these Hammond boxes that have the plastic spacer and often black anodized screws don't make good contact to the front and rear panel.
you spent faaaaar too little time showing off the completed item… this is fantastic, and very inspiring. thank you very much!
Sorry about that! Glad it was helpful in any case.
@@PhilsLab in any case, in any enclosure…
I had never thought about this
Very cool! You could use countersunk washers, if you like that look, too.
Brilliant Idea
Cheers!
Very nice product! You always teaching the new 😁congratulations!
Thanks, Antonio!
you're so talented my friend love your work keep going
Thank you very much, Skander!
I tend to use Hammond Mfg for the reasons you give: range, documentation and availability. And yes, always size your PCB to the enclosure before laying out, especially if you'll need to route traces around internal mounting holes.
This is something that people should know as it's so affordable ! Even if you still can't let 'Veroboard' go your work can still look impressive, I can hear people now what's 'Veroboard' ?......cheers.
Brilliant. I am going to give this a go on my next project. I usually 3d print my panels for one-of jobs but this is a way better idea.
Thanks, Colin - interested to hear how your next enclosure turns out then!
I agree on Hammond boxes. The fact that detailed, accurate mechanical drawings exist for all of them makes it so easy to design your board foot print.
Don't make the mistake I made. I put connectors AND a pot on one side of the board which was made as a perfect fit in the box. Thus there was no way to get the thing in the box with the pot attached to it. I the end I did get it in... but it's never coming back out and there are spider cracks in the translucent blue box.
Leave lots of tolerance. While a nice tight fit is nice, it will just make it more difficult. Aim to be just past the mounting holes, rather than aiming to be right up to the box skin.
Can never say this enough, but thanks, your videos are helping me a lot, developing boards, with consciousness...
Though still waiting for your next course...
Thank you very much, Ricardo - I'm glad that they're helpful. I'm still working on the course, which packs *a lot* of content (also in comparison to the first course) - sorry that it's taking some time, I just want to get it right and convey as much meaningful information as possible!
great idea!
Thanks!
Thank you so much
Thanks for watching!
Video Idea:
Capacitive Touch. It is time to remove the old boring buttons for something clean. Show us how to make a capacitive touch button PCB design.
Also love Hammond! Do you have any tips for how to create the separation zones in Altium (as well as the board edge)? Getting the stitching vias, solder mask exposure, and pours all working together has alluded me.
You said you can choose from many different kind of pcb options , but what did you chose eventually ? is it aluminium material with Matte black solder mask and white silkscreen ???
Ha! I literally do the exact same thing as this with the same enclosures from Hammond for my custom audio/DMX controllers. I also use reverse-mount SMD LEDs with some panels and edge mount connectors to plug the panel into the main PCB. Works really well! I tend to use Fusion, and import both the PCB with components, plus the Hammond casing and assemble them together, then project the parts that show through onto new sketches within Fusion, then it's simple to line the holes up. Of course that process is a bit out of scope for your videos, but just another way of doing it.
The reverse-mount LED is something I still want to try out with some panels. Same goes with Fusion - I just haven't had a particular need yet to learn it...
@@PhilsLab Fusion was my first experience with CAD - it’s bundled with Eagle and I finally decided to put some time into learning it and so glad I did! I’ve modelled entire event installations now along with lots of PCB components that are pretty niche it seems and were not available on GrabCAD etc. One of the cool things about the Eagle integration is that the timeline updates if the board layout changes - so for example if you moved the pot across a bit the case design, and any silkscreen art based on its position will update 😁
Usually when ordering panels, a neat feature is to machine the text into the panel and have it filled with color. Also makes it last longer.
Hello Phil, thank you very much for the video! I am curious why you didn't add any tolerance for the 100mm side of your board when the enclosure is exactly 100mm wide.
One thing to add, JLCPCB is way way cheaper. For 100 pieces with the same dimension in fr4 is 19$ or 21$ for aluminium without shipping.
Awesome video... I am going to do front and rear panels like this from now on. Where did you get the 3D model for your pot? I've been looking all over for a couple weeks and can't find it anywhere.
Thanks, Matt! I can't quite remember but either 3dcontentcentral or Grabcad.
@@PhilsLab Much thanks! I just found it on 3dcontentcentral.
Hammond has also obtained the rights and all information from the Peter Dahl Company which at one time manufactured all types of transformers for old communications equipment like Collins. They can build modulation transformers for FM transmitters, high voltage transformers for RF amplifiers, heavy power chokes to name a few. They are all custom made to order and take several weeks to receive.
That's interesting, I didn't know that - thanks for sharing!
Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge! Question, are irregular holes doable? For example, can the software draw a DB9 connector hole, and can PCBWay make the DB9 hole on the panel?
Yeah, as long as it can be milled, for example with appropriate tooling sizes, corner radii, most shapes should be possible.
I really enjoyed this. As a manufacturer of a device. I still have the problem of product case design and mold costs. A simple mold now costs around 5k$ and that's without the injection prices. This is really a good alternative for small and simple products. Any idea how to get it as cheap as possible?
could you advise pls - where has the video gone about +9\-9V power supply? I just have started to watch it... noticed a voice slide over the video capturing... then it completely vanished... is it under the development stage still?
👍👍
👍🙏❤
I noticed that your pronunciation of German words very good and sound like a German native speaker in your videos.
How come?
Greeting from Germany
Ich komme tatsächlich aus Deutschland. Grüße aus Heidelberg :)
@@PhilsLab Ach das ist ja witzig. Und wie ist dein perfektes und flüssiges Englisch zu erklären?
Grüße aus Hannover und schöne Ostern.
Danke :) Bin glücklicherweise zweisprachig aufgewachsen, war dann auch in England auf der Schule und an der Uni.
Dir auch noch schöne Feiertage!
How can someone reach your level!!!!!?
Thank you. The way I learn best is by practising, creating real-world designs, having them manufactured, seeing what works, and what doesn't. Then repeat.
As Phil said, he's not a mechanical design expert. If you use the ideas in this video you can get great results. In my experience, what I have to be careful of is making a mistake with hole positions. Double check your finished design before you send it to the PCB manufacturer. Like they say in woodworking... "Measure twice, cut once"
I hope phill does a video on exactly this comment. I think this comment very well deserves a video as an answer. Amidst all UA-cam comments, this is the best I've seen.
If the enclosure is 100 +/-0.51 mm. Make the board to the minimum size.. 99.49mm then it's guaranteed to fit. This can catch you out
Have used this technics during Covid period for an effective solution, for front and rear 19'' - 6 U rack panels and with clean and aesthetic results, compared to classical AL milling/engraving, at a lower price and quick delay.
The only blocking point is for the planet, AL being recycled forever compared to FR4 époxy PCB's ...😒
Good point about recyclability!
@@PhilsLab Until PCB's will become 'greener'.
Refer to PCB manufacturers researchs, with hope to get it in the future.
You covered it just fine from a mechanical perspective, it's certainly not a complex problem that requires a university qualification in mechanical. Just a bit of tolerancing. If it can be manufactured and assembled with no problems then that's perfectly fine. If not, then just call it a "prototype" and make a new revision.
Definately cheaper than getting COTS enclosure and getting faces "water-jet".. however I'm not sure these PCB enclosures will pass the IP rating : )
They certainly won't - but then again they typically don't need to be as a 'hobbyist/prototype' enclosure :)
Great video! You could also try 3D print the enclosure, there are services that can do it. I think JLC has that service.
Thanks! True, I actually just got my new 3D printer. Still need to find time to unbox it and learn Fusion now...
Great tutorial. Was the USB C connector perfectly aligned with the hole at the end?
Thanks! Yes, everything aligned right away!