I agree if the fan is already properly vented through the roof, soffit or gable wall. Often times that is not the case so a trip to the attic is necessary. Yesterday, I was able to install one that had a properly terminated duct through the roof and I never needed to go to the attic, but I did anyways.
Question, I currently have an FV15VQL4 where the light is no longer working and would like to do a direct replacement. Do you know which model I should get? Do I need to replace it the entire housing or just the guts? Will I need to go into the attic for this. Will also replace the motor and refresh whatever I need t make it like new. Any tips?
Hi. If your current fan is properly ducted to the outside you won't need to go into the attic. You can carefully disconnect the duct and reconnect to the new fan. In my opinion, I would take out the old fan and get a completely new fan. Just use the existing wiring. Whichever fan you choose, watch a video on that specific model. If you use the one in this video, be prepared to bend the duct connection to make it into an oval shape which is not a big deal, but you do have to make sure the duct is clear of the damper, otherwise it will get stuck and the fan won't work. I believe the fan you have has a larger outlet (standard, and due to the higher profile) so you may want to find one that matches. Hope this helps.
@@ronsheffer this fan is largely a replacement model of most fans, even though it does not have a similar footprint in those comply with the energy star ratings, which are critical in new construction and also in any permitted application we sell thousands of these each year.. additionally is a straight 70 CFM, however that still requires retro in order to update from current cabinet sizes of exhaust fans
Thank you for this video. I have a question, i just built my home and have these exact same ones. However I am noticing air flowing back in and not much flowing out. What could this be? A kink in the line? The damper being stuck?
Thank you for your contribution!! Thanks for watching. Glad this video helped you in some way. If you are getting air coming back inside near the motor/cover then I have found three reasons to date for this problem: 1. The duct connection to the fan is somehow preventing the damper from fully functioning and it needs to be adjusted. 2. One time the damper fell out and I put it back in upside down. 3. The duct is not tight, has a kink (as you indicated) or has an obstruction (usually at the end if it is not properly connected to a termination).
I am replacing a bathroom fan that was added to a bathroom built in 1931. There is a roof over the bathroom so the cavity is 3 5/8 deep, with the 1/2" draywall I have a depth of 4 1/8" I bought this fan but not sure I can do a retro install like I did in a prvious home that had lots of room and a different model of fan. I see that the clearance between the exit duct and the flange is less than 1/2" so how do you get this to fit? ANy thoughts on how to mount this with no attic access and a shallow depth?
Thanks for sharing the details! Does your current fan duct straight through the roof, or does it vent horizontally to an exterior wall? Can you attach the duct to the flange before securing that part of the fan? That is how I like to overcome the small clearance. I also find that once I cut the hole for the Panasonic, it gives me more room to maneuver the duct and get things set up right. I speak from installing the fan in a first floor bathroom with no access from above. Only the preexisting duct to make a new connection.
@@homeairleakagetest The tube goes horizontal to the wall and a vent. But my issue is the flange on the output tube flange and the power box are very close to the flange that would go against the drywall. I am mouting like a retro so the sqaure body flange needs to be on the outside of the drywall and the drywall needs to side between that and thge output flange and power box bodies. I guess because the flange is tapered, I can cut some more drywall out so if is missing near the fan box body. The power box might have to be left off. The fan has a elliptical output adapter. I have bought the adapeter to reduce it to 3" which I assume is the tube size is. There is only enough height for a 3" tube in the cavity. At the wall, I believe the tube is disconencted from the outside vent so the vent will have to be removed to fish the tube back or replaced. It is ony about 3-4 feet to the wall.
The whisper remodel version of these fans is great. No need to go into the attic to install.
I agree if the fan is already properly vented through the roof, soffit or gable wall. Often times that is not the case so a trip to the attic is necessary. Yesterday, I was able to install one that had a properly terminated duct through the roof and I never needed to go to the attic, but I did anyways.
I love these videos
Many thanks.
Just put one in and did the TP test and it not sucking like it should, its pipe to the soffit
Is the duct cut to length and pulled nice and tight? Is is connected to a proper term fitting?
Question, I currently have an FV15VQL4 where the light is no longer working and would like to do a direct replacement.
Do you know which model I should get? Do I need to replace it the entire housing or just the guts? Will I need to go into the attic for this. Will also replace the motor and refresh whatever I need t make it like new.
Any tips?
Hi. If your current fan is properly ducted to the outside you won't need to go into the attic. You can carefully disconnect the duct and reconnect to the new fan. In my opinion, I would take out the old fan and get a completely new fan. Just use the existing wiring. Whichever fan you choose, watch a video on that specific model. If you use the one in this video, be prepared to bend the duct connection to make it into an oval shape which is not a big deal, but you do have to make sure the duct is clear of the damper, otherwise it will get stuck and the fan won't work. I believe the fan you have has a larger outlet (standard, and due to the higher profile) so you may want to find one that matches. Hope this helps.
Thanks. I plan on purchasing the same Panasonic, just a newer model that is available.
@@ronsheffer this fan is largely a replacement model of most fans, even though it does not have a similar footprint in those comply with the energy star ratings, which are critical in new construction and also in any permitted application we sell thousands of these each year.. additionally is a straight 70 CFM, however that still requires retro in order to update from current cabinet sizes of exhaust fans
Thank you for this video. I have a question, i just built my home and have these exact same ones. However I am noticing air flowing back in and not much flowing out. What could this be? A kink in the line? The damper being stuck?
Thank you for your contribution!! Thanks for watching. Glad this video helped you in some way. If you are getting air coming back inside near the motor/cover then I have found three reasons to date for this problem: 1. The duct connection to the fan is somehow preventing the damper from fully functioning and it needs to be adjusted. 2. One time the damper fell out and I put it back in upside down. 3. The duct is not tight, has a kink (as you indicated) or has an obstruction (usually at the end if it is not properly connected to a termination).
Think I’m gonna replace our Braun fan with a Panasonic whisper quite, out in our bathroom just isn’t powerful enough
You got it! Great move!!
I am replacing a bathroom fan that was added to a bathroom built in 1931. There is a roof over the bathroom so the cavity is 3 5/8 deep, with the 1/2" draywall I have a depth of 4 1/8" I bought this fan but not sure I can do a retro install like I did in a prvious home that had lots of room and a different model of fan.
I see that the clearance between the exit duct and the flange is less than 1/2" so how do you get this to fit?
ANy thoughts on how to mount this with no attic access and a shallow depth?
Thanks for sharing the details! Does your current fan duct straight through the roof, or does it vent horizontally to an exterior wall? Can you attach the duct to the flange before securing that part of the fan? That is how I like to overcome the small clearance. I also find that once I cut the hole for the Panasonic, it gives me more room to maneuver the duct and get things set up right. I speak from installing the fan in a first floor bathroom with no access from above. Only the preexisting duct to make a new connection.
@@homeairleakagetest The tube goes horizontal to the wall and a vent. But my issue is the flange on the output tube flange and the power box are very close to the flange that would go against the drywall. I am mouting like a retro so the sqaure body flange needs to be on the outside of the drywall and the drywall needs to side between that and thge output flange and power box bodies. I guess because the flange is tapered, I can cut some more drywall out so if is missing near the fan box body. The power box might have to be left off.
The fan has a elliptical output adapter. I have bought the adapeter to reduce it to 3" which I assume is the tube size is. There is only enough height for a 3" tube in the cavity. At the wall, I believe the tube is disconencted from the outside vent so the vent will have to be removed to fish the tube back or replaced. It is ony about 3-4 feet to the wall.
I can send a sketch if there is some way to upload
info@hometrustremodeling.com Send photos too if possible.