Konnected Alarm with DSC PowerSeries in SmartThings
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2024
- Konnected alarm boards used to make a DSC PC1616 smart with SmartThings. Later sections of video give examples of programming. See konnected.io/ and www.dsc.com/ for more.
As a professional DSC installer I want to say good job. And also the original installer is a putz not only for the way he wired it but also for only using a 6 zone without a full lcd keypad. I can guarantee that added to the difficulty and time of install. Costwise probably saved him 15 bucks. Anyways good video, going to give that Konnected a try myself.
Clear as mud.
Great video, thank you! My DSC alarm is getting installed this week, basically the same keypad and panel setup. I'll be referring back to this to get it all setup with SmartThings. Not sure if you use ActionTiles as well, but I assume these Things would be available to it. I'm just starting with ST and AT, so much to learn!
Great video! Thank you for sharing. Glad that you're enjoying the product.
One mistake time 17:17 about that section 023 bit 8 should be ON unless you plan to only arm with your App when your in bed as you won't be opening the delay zone if your arming from work for example to put the alarm into Away Mode (every-time you arm from the Keypad depending on the keypad it has 'a bypass LED,System LED, a door with a big X through it or the word bypass' until the entry delay zone is triggered (DSC only) to indicate that the area you move in at night is switched off) and use the keypad to arm at night using *9 after arming if you need to change the Delay zone to instant during your sleep if your panel supports it (the Arm indicator will flash to confirm this)
Ah, never thought about arming remotely from work. Yes, that might change someone's desired behavior - but for me I think this is what I wanted. Thanks!
Great video man, I was working on the same board this weekend for a friend. Do you know how to read the state of a wireless contact sensor? His installer won’t share the installer is there another around it other than a reset? One last request, can you share your excel sheet? I think I’m gonna need in case I rest 😏
Spreadsheet: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BOcykR8w9mK4Yj_68fF9MzubYOPjUu9h5K7EaKw9Qbk/edit?usp=sharing
As for the other questions, sorry not much help. See securedsurrounding.com/dsc-lockout/ which looks like a reset may be in your future?
Thanks for the video. Do you have any detailed instructions on the basic programming for the relay to be added as a key switch. I have very limited home security knowledge and was basically looking for the commands that would have to be given to the panel to have the system recognize it. I have an add on panel like you do and it would be going into zone 8 of the panel
Sorry just saw this. Enter installer mode, then enter section for zone programing (e.g. 01, which for me is zones 01-16); note you'll need to first review what the zones are set as (see video) so you can preserve those settings. For the zone you want to make the keyswitch, code "22" was the value from my installer manual - you can see it on zone 12 in the spreadsheet: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1BOcykR8w9mK4Yj_68fF9MzubYOPjUu9h5K7EaKw9Qbk/edit?usp=sharing
I noticed you have WiFi in a metal enclosure. Any issues with the WiFi signal? Everything I read indicates some possible problems with getting a good signal. I’m trying to avoid taking out my current metal enclosures due the additional work and cost? Thoughts….
Yes, absolutely a problem. I leave the front panel off which helps a lot, and had to join it to the guest AP in that same closet and even then I think the WiFi is iffy. Someday I'll upgrade to the new wired ones.
Good to know. I guess I’ll replace my metal enclosure with a plastic one. Thanks for your quick response. GREAT VIDEO! Just an FYI, watched a video of someone placing a plexiglass as the door.
@@bobperez8414 good idea, thanks!
Thanks for the video. I currently have a wired system but Konnected looks quite interesting. Can it be powered using the 12V screw on the existing alarm board? Or does the power going to the current wired alarm board need to be removed and wired to Konnected?
You need to keep your alarm powered if using this version of Konnected. My alarm used 16V AC, but the Konnected can be powered from the aux power on the panel which should be 12V DC, or you can use a separate 12V DC power adapter.
@@fairbmf Thanks for the response. I asked because my existing board ouputs 12V but only 1Amp from the aux. The power adapters that comes with Konnected is also 12V but 2.5 Amp. I wonder if the 1amp from the board is enough. I would only be using a single Konnected unit (6 zones) so maybe it would be OK?
@@shobuddy Yes should be fine as long as the alarm itself doesn't have too many things on the AUX. The Konnected boards don't draw much at all (I want to say 350mA?). Konnected gives you the 2.5A so you can power a bunch at once.
@@fairbmf Thanks! I'll give it a go.
I have basically the same layout as you except for I also have two wireless zones. I tried to wire it with a resistor and without a resistor to trigger the alarm. Unfortunately, I can't get the relay to trigger my alarm. Any advice?
Try just a direct wire or direct with resistor without using the relay or Konnected at all. That way you can troubleshoot just the alarm panel.
Enter installer mode, *8, then enter your installer code. Now the system is waiting for you to specify the “section” you want to program.
Enter "013" to enter the First System Option Code section. You'll see numbers 1-8 toggled either on or off, for example mine is 1 3 567.
If you have a 1 it means normally closed loops without resistors.
If you don't have a 1 AND don't have a 2, then you need single EOL resistors.
If you don't have a 1 AND DO have a 2, then you need double EOL resistors.
If the wireless zones are the same as the zones on your Panel/Expander those zones will unfortunately be unusable programming different values to make them be a keyswitch would then make the wireless zone act as a keyswitch if this is the case
so you're just like the originally installer guy who won't give out his code
Why would he give out his installer code? That compromise’s his security 😂