It's a very clever device. The only thing I don't like is that there are too many components. I realize that you do this so that you can charge more money by separating all the components but it just makes the install that much more cumbersome with extra wires running about for no reason. You need to buy the alarm panel (or starter kit) which is $89-$99 which only has 6 zones. Most people will need at least 12 zones, so you can multiply that price by 2 (or the pro panel comes with 12 zones + ethernet capability at $229 which cost slightly more than x2). Then you need to buy the interface module which is another $49 (also with only 6 zones, so for 12 zones... x2)... we're looking at, at least $350 USD (+tax and shipping) to revive an old alarm system. That's a little steep. I was looking at the Ring Alarm Retro Fit... and it seems to combine the panel and interface module into one device so it's cleaner (and more aesthetically pleasing) and you don't have to string along so many little panels. And it has it's own app that they develop and maintain so I assume it's a bit more secure (since it's a well known smart security company). However, I think it's also only 6 zones for $150 USD. So, I'm assuming you've matched the Konnected system to be essentially the same price as the Ring system... except you have more panels to fiddle with (making it harder for DIY folks) with a less clean system and company name which is not as well-known as Ring. I wouldn't want to pay so much to revive an old system, either way. If I'm paying a minimum of $350 +tax, I might as well just buy a newer smart security system for my home. I think your price point for your products need to be reevaluated. If you can make an integrated 12 zone pro panel (integrated with the interface module), an all-in-one conversion kit (without having to buy so many add-ons) for $200-$250 (and maybe have add-on "integrated" 6 zone kits for $50), I think it would be a fairer deal. I don't really understand when smaller companies price their similar systems the same as big companies do... you would take more of their business if you sell the same thing for a bit cheaper (considering that they have a much well-known brand and have a product that is integrated with their own app and is prettier to look at). Lowering your price point and having a more user friendly product will help you win more potential customers in my opinion. I personally don't know the history of your company (I don't know who came up with this idea first). This video was recommended by YT and looked interesting since I like topics of DIY and upcycling. Anyways, good luck.
I have been an alarm installer for upwards of 18 years. I can do stuff on the Honeywell ademco alarm system that Honeywell tech support says cannot be done. I am almost halfway through the video now, and I am confused. There is a whole lot going on to get the system up running. I personally have the eyes on communicator tied into my 320 P1 which is essentially a protection One branded Vista 20p. I am very satisfied with what I have, and it was not as complicated as this seems to be at point.
I got a general question , if I have my vista 21p with a wireless transceiver cause I do have mix of hardwired zone and wireless sensors as well , do I get the same feedback responses from those wireless zones on my panel? Also you module report same opening and close to the app?
Understandably so my response is a bit late. I have been using the eyes on communicator for approximately 3 years or so. I just installed the the sidekick, but yet it is not hooked up. I like eyezon better
We have a GE Simon 3 alarm system that was purchased at Lowes, not monitored by ADT. It has an outdoor siren we would like to continue using but the door sensors need replaced. How can we update this to be used with cellphone smart home
As an Alarm Technician, I've never understood why bother putting the resistor in the panel, if they didn't want to supervise the loop then disable it in programming. Idk, just screams lazy. End of line resistors should be at the end of line, otherwise it defeats the purpose.
The necessary instructions may be very similar to the DSC PowerSeries 1616,1832 and 1864 so let me know if you would like to know what I found to work to get this functioning like Nate is saying in this video. There was a bit of trial and error and close looking to finally get it working.
Ahhh, I see it @9:04 my panel doesn't specify "hi " "lo" Side So that was confusing me especially for @18:39 as I'm trying to use this video for the Interface-pro installation and using the relay.
Notice you have taken the reference voltage for the second interface board from the 8-pin connector for onboard triggers. Can the board be connected to the standard Aux Power Output the same as the first interface?
Options for password security or other features like that would vary depending on which smart home platform you use. Reach out to us at help@konnected.io or our forums at help.konnected.io for pointers specific to your setup.
I have a Napco System Gemini board #GEM-P3200/P3200M with 3 Gemini keypads # GEM-RP1CAe2 and 10 contact zones with 3 wired motion detectors plus there is a separate Atlantic Siren driver Board. So can you tell me what kind of Konnect system parts I would need, to convert my system to a Konnect System.
My system is DSC 16 zones, but I'm using just 15 of them. Do to fact my system is in location where is no WiFi reception, just hard wired network (RJ45) and I'm not comfortable to add any WiFi access point, please advise how to create 16 zones system hard wired to network.
The necessary instructions may be very similar to the PowerSeries 1616,1832 and 1864 so let me know if you would like what I found to work to get this functioning.
You won't be able to monitor the wireless zones directly, but if the alarm triggers because of a wireless zone and you have set up Konnected to monitor the triggered status of the alarm as shown in this video, that will still work.
I have a vista 50p and using relay module to trigger konnected board. The relays are programmed to trigger with zone list. Each of my wireless zones are in a separate zone list assigned to a relay. I only have 3 wireless zones. I done zone 1 the same way for my 2 wire smokes. Relay putting ground on konnected interface board and when zone goes into alarm the relay opens. Then I get a alarm for that zone. Will be setting automation to arm and disarm smartthings with a relay. It will work just need to do a lot of programming.
Konnected's interface is designed to work with any brand of wired alarm system. The only case where it doesn't work is with zone doubling or addressable polling sensors, both of which are very uncommon in residential alarm systems.
I’ll save money by just using the panel kit , plug power to auxiliary, keep the original power back up - the battery was just replaced. No sense in buying another module ( interface ) and another battery back up pack. I’m an alarm technician of many years. I’m doing it this way because I don’t have an accessible plug and don’t want to fish wires , plus it makes no sense to buy another battery. BUT one’s the battery dies - I may consider the cleaner looking install. Functionality it’s no different, just better looking with the interface and Konnected battery. Nevertheless I doubt their battery will outlast an old 12 volt. Spend a little extra and replaced all your contacts if they’re older than 10 years old. Believe it or not they either get magnetize ; which means an alarm will not be detected by intrusion and do become faulty creating false alarms. Now Konnected can add contacts to their sales products. Just don’t replace if they aren’t faulty or 10 years or less.
Once a day I check your channel to see if the interface video is uploaded. The day has finally come and I am so hyped!!
It's a very clever device. The only thing I don't like is that there are too many components. I realize that you do this so that you can charge more money by separating all the components but it just makes the install that much more cumbersome with extra wires running about for no reason. You need to buy the alarm panel (or starter kit) which is $89-$99 which only has 6 zones. Most people will need at least 12 zones, so you can multiply that price by 2 (or the pro panel comes with 12 zones + ethernet capability at $229 which cost slightly more than x2). Then you need to buy the interface module which is another $49 (also with only 6 zones, so for 12 zones... x2)... we're looking at, at least $350 USD (+tax and shipping) to revive an old alarm system. That's a little steep.
I was looking at the Ring Alarm Retro Fit... and it seems to combine the panel and interface module into one device so it's cleaner (and more aesthetically pleasing) and you don't have to string along so many little panels. And it has it's own app that they develop and maintain so I assume it's a bit more secure (since it's a well known smart security company). However, I think it's also only 6 zones for $150 USD. So, I'm assuming you've matched the Konnected system to be essentially the same price as the Ring system... except you have more panels to fiddle with (making it harder for DIY folks) with a less clean system and company name which is not as well-known as Ring.
I wouldn't want to pay so much to revive an old system, either way. If I'm paying a minimum of $350 +tax, I might as well just buy a newer smart security system for my home. I think your price point for your products need to be reevaluated. If you can make an integrated 12 zone pro panel (integrated with the interface module), an all-in-one conversion kit (without having to buy so many add-ons) for $200-$250 (and maybe have add-on "integrated" 6 zone kits for $50), I think it would be a fairer deal. I don't really understand when smaller companies price their similar systems the same as big companies do... you would take more of their business if you sell the same thing for a bit cheaper (considering that they have a much well-known brand and have a product that is integrated with their own app and is prettier to look at). Lowering your price point and having a more user friendly product will help you win more potential customers in my opinion. I personally don't know the history of your company (I don't know who came up with this idea first). This video was recommended by YT and looked interesting since I like topics of DIY and upcycling. Anyways, good luck.
I have been an alarm installer for upwards of 18 years. I can do stuff on the Honeywell ademco alarm system that Honeywell tech support says cannot be done. I am almost halfway through the video now, and I am confused. There is a whole lot going on to get the system up running. I personally have the eyes on communicator tied into my 320 P1 which is essentially a protection One branded Vista 20p. I am very satisfied with what I have, and it was not as complicated as this seems to be at point.
Some impressive callouses Nate. Really hitting those weights!
Yay, you said Home Assistant!
Love the module and service!
Hi Nate, can you show how to set arm away and arm stay from Smartthing app? I see you just control arm or disarm only from your phone. Thx.
I got a general question , if I have my vista 21p with a wireless transceiver cause I do have mix of hardwired zone and wireless sensors as well , do I get the same feedback responses from those wireless zones on my panel? Also you module report same opening and close to the app?
i have a caddx networX NX-4, what should i use to keep my existing key pad and have it smart as well?
Great video, made the setup a whole lot easier.. thanks. Any idea as to why my external strobe light would be continuously flashing tho?
Send pics of your wiring to help@konnected.io and we'll try to help.
What's the difference between this and the EyezOn Envisalink EVL-4EZR IP Security Interface Module for DSC and Honeywell (Ademco) Security Systems?
Understandably so my response is a bit late. I have been using the eyes on communicator for approximately 3 years or so. I just installed the the sidekick, but yet it is not hooked up. I like eyezon better
We have a GE Simon 3 alarm system that was purchased at Lowes, not monitored by ADT. It has an outdoor siren we would like to continue using but the door sensors need replaced. How can we update this to be used with cellphone smart home
As an Alarm Technician, I've never understood why bother putting the resistor in the panel, if they didn't want to supervise the loop then disable it in programming. Idk, just screams lazy. End of line resistors should be at the end of line, otherwise it defeats the purpose.
Can you do a video on IDS 805 alarm panel with the same setup
Is there a way to add cellular notification signals to this system, incase my WiFi signal goes down?
Do you have the details of the university where I can learn how to programme this ?
The necessary instructions may be very similar to the DSC PowerSeries 1616,1832 and 1864 so let me know if you would like to know what I found to work to get this functioning like Nate is saying in this video. There was a bit of trial and error and close looking to finally get it working.
I'm interested in the instructions for the DSC, thanks!
i am also interested for DSC 1616
I am interested in configuration for DSC as I am currently working with a client
@8:16 Just ordered the kit. a Little confused by what you mean by on the "high side" of each zone? Gonna attack it asa I can.
Ahhh, I see it @9:04 my panel doesn't specify "hi " "lo" Side So that was confusing me especially for @18:39 as I'm trying to use this video for the Interface-pro installation and using the relay.
Notice you have taken the reference voltage for the second interface board from the 8-pin connector for onboard triggers. Can the board be connected to the standard Aux Power Output the same as the first interface?
Yes, that works too. They are typically interchangable.
Thanks good video: looking to add your system but question on alarm/disarm, can this be done through password protection as well?
Options for password security or other features like that would vary depending on which smart home platform you use. Reach out to us at help@konnected.io or our forums at help.konnected.io for pointers specific to your setup.
I have a Napco System Gemini board #GEM-P3200/P3200M with 3 Gemini keypads # GEM-RP1CAe2 and 10 contact zones with 3 wired motion detectors plus there is a separate Atlantic Siren driver Board. So can you tell me what kind of Konnect system parts I would need, to convert my system to a Konnect System.
My system is DSC 16 zones, but I'm using just 15 of them. Do to fact my system is in location where is no WiFi reception, just hard wired network (RJ45) and I'm not comfortable to add any WiFi access point, please advise how to create 16 zones system hard wired to network.
Our Alarm Panel Pro has Ethernet capability and supports 12 zones. With two of them you have 24 zones.
Can you provide installation instruction specific to DSC PC5010 control panel? as it is different from the panel on this video. Thank you!
The necessary instructions may be very similar to the PowerSeries 1616,1832 and 1864 so let me know if you would like what I found to work to get this functioning.
When it’s interfaced with an existing alarm. Can you arm from the smart things app and then disarm from the keypad ?
Yes!
Every time I try to arm from SmartThings my keypad starts beeping and says “check 02” which is my keyswitch zone. Everything else works fine.
It's not dialed in properly.
Does the interface kit works with First Alert FA147C system (which is in fact a Vista 15SE apparently)
A bit late, but probably not. No SE.
I wired my home for konnected setup.
Can this module be used on a DSC 1550 control panel ? Or does it have to be upgraded?
Yes, it can work with a DSC 1550.
I have the old interface v1 and had to reset everything, can I use the konnected app to setup everything again using smartthings?
Yes. Just flash the updated firmware on the older wifi boards at install.konnected.io
Is this just for hardwired zones, I see you have a receiver, so was wondering if your wireless zones will be working with this as well
Had the same question. Probably will have to just add Smartthings compatible switches to the same doors or windows on wireless zones.
You won't be able to monitor the wireless zones directly, but if the alarm triggers because of a wireless zone and you have set up Konnected to monitor the triggered status of the alarm as shown in this video, that will still work.
I have a vista 50p and using relay module to trigger konnected board. The relays are programmed to trigger with zone list. Each of my wireless zones are in a separate zone list assigned to a relay. I only have 3 wireless zones. I done zone 1 the same way for my 2 wire smokes. Relay putting ground on konnected interface board and when zone goes into alarm the relay opens. Then I get a alarm for that zone. Will be setting automation to arm and disarm smartthings with a relay. It will work just need to do a lot of programming.
Hi, does it work with my old Magnum-Alert-800 system?
Konnected's interface is designed to work with any brand of wired alarm system. The only case where it doesn't work is with zone doubling or addressable polling sensors, both of which are very uncommon in residential alarm systems.
I’ll save money by just using the panel kit , plug power to auxiliary, keep the original power back up - the battery was just replaced. No sense in buying another module ( interface ) and another battery back up pack. I’m an alarm technician of many years. I’m doing it this way because I don’t have an accessible plug and don’t want to fish wires , plus it makes no sense to buy another battery. BUT one’s the battery dies - I may consider the cleaner looking install. Functionality it’s no different, just better looking with the interface and Konnected battery. Nevertheless I doubt their battery will outlast an old 12 volt. Spend a little extra and replaced all your contacts if they’re older than 10 years old. Believe it or not they either get magnetize ; which means an alarm will not be detected by intrusion and do become faulty creating false alarms. Now Konnected can add contacts to their sales products. Just don’t replace if they aren’t faulty or 10 years or less.