+++++DISCOVER THE REST OF THIS VIDEO SERIES+++++ This is episode 7 in a video series dedicated solely to painting and weathering Warhammer tanks from the Imperial Guard, Imperialis Militia, and Solar Auxilia factions for 40k and Horus Heresy. Discover the rest here: ua-cam.com/play/PLZdX5WqXSpc2L1lqSjPma1nbY2V7T2bz7.html
It can be done with acrylics. The trick is to let the paint cure properly first. The biggest mistake people make with any kind of abrasive weathering (salt, hairspray, chipping fluid, masking) is not letting the paint fully cure. Dry isn't enough. It has to be cured. I've used the technique in this video in the past with Humbrol mask and Vallejo's masking fluid, but I gave my model a good couple of days in warm environment to give the paint a chance to cure. The same has to be said of your primer and basecoat too. You need your final coat/s to have bonded to the layer below before you attempt anything like this. If your primer hasn't fully cured before you start any kind of abrasive weathering, you're simply going to rip the paint off. The primer/paint needs enough time to cure and shrink around the surface it's painted on to form a real bond.
yeah, I have done this with Vallejo Air as well. Basecoat was Tamiya though, then 2 different layers or Vallejo Air with The Humbrol liquid mask in between. Brushing away the liquid mask about 24-48h later..better results the longer I waited..
Haha, so true. And that is the good thing when you are busy with otherr things, you have to be patient to not rush it. Indeed, whenever I had a few days in between, my paint was so resilient.
Do you like the tank in this video? It's 3d-printed sci-fi/WWII hybrid aptly name the GRIM TIGER, by Grim Prints. Learn more at gumroad.com/grimprints. My buddy Brian at Grim Prints is creating awesome STLs which are designed with fitment and ease of use in mind. They all have holes ready for magnetization, modular components, and even a bottom compartment to store accessories in.
Hi NN, thanks a lot, but no, I didn't. What I did was what is known as "airbrush stippling", that is create a very fine mottled texture with a lighter grey. The rust is a mixture of rust pigments and Track Wash. The effect came out better on the Grim Maus than here, I think.
I have recently used a lacquer paint in the manner you do to prime my models. I used Mr Surfacer with levelling thinner, as directed. I noticed that even thinned 50/50, it seemed spray "slow" and with poor coverage, yet simultaneously empty from the cup very quickly. It took so much to get full coverage on only 10 28mm models. Also, cleaning the airbrush after is TERRIBLE. So much sticky paint on the inside of the cup and down in the well near the nozzle. Am I doing something wrong? Have you encountered the same issues? I know that you are using a different product, but as it is lacquer I assume it is similar enough. Please help!
Hi Nigel, sorry to hear that! I have only ever used Mr. Surfacer as a rattlecan (which works great), so I’m afraid I cannot help a lot - but there are people in my Discord using it, and I can ask them. What I do know is this: Mr. Surfacer has a LOT of texture to it (the number indicates the grit), which is why you’re experiencing those problems. I would switch to AK Interactive’s Black Primer with microfiller, which needs NO dilution whatsoever and does not clog. To clean your airbrush now, make sure to get AK Xtreme Cleaner - it’ll take care of that in a second. Oh, and you need a big needle (0,4 or larger) to spray stuff like that with ease.
@@TheRaceForTerra Thank you for the speedy reply. I'll check those products out. I unfortunately only have a .35 needle, and that may be causing some issues as well. I was just extremely confused as to why the paint would be going on so slowly, but also my cup would empty so quickly. Is the AK Primer with Microfiller as sturdy as the lacquer prime jobs you do? That's one of my main concerns after using Pro Acryl primer, which rubbed off with even soft pressure. Thanks again.
@@nigeljones9215 Hi Nigel, yeah, I suspect the needle size is a contributing factor in your case. Yes, the AK primer I mentioned is what I use to get that robust primer I always talk about! Hope this helps, Enrique
Hi Frederick, I have seen it before, of course, but no, never tried it. I do chipping by brush, liquid mask chipping, mechanical chipping, hairspray chipping, and what I call "needle chipping" (see TX-130 video).
@@TheRaceForTerra you need to try it , salt is very easy to peel off and you can crush salt to have different chipping size , me i'll try chipping with masking liquid i'm curious to try this method ;)
+++++DISCOVER THE REST OF THIS VIDEO SERIES+++++
This is episode 7 in a video series dedicated solely to painting and weathering Warhammer tanks from the Imperial Guard, Imperialis Militia, and Solar Auxilia factions for 40k and Horus Heresy. Discover the rest here: ua-cam.com/play/PLZdX5WqXSpc2L1lqSjPma1nbY2V7T2bz7.html
Definitely a nice and easy process to get some great results without tons of time and effort. Appreciate this!
Thank you, Matt happy you liked it!
Super result. The combo of tank, colours and weathering are superb and the red markings add that little something extra.
Thank you very much, Mitch!
It can be done with acrylics. The trick is to let the paint cure properly first.
The biggest mistake people make with any kind of abrasive weathering (salt, hairspray, chipping fluid, masking) is not letting the paint fully cure. Dry isn't enough. It has to be cured. I've used the technique in this video in the past with Humbrol mask and Vallejo's masking fluid, but I gave my model a good couple of days in warm environment to give the paint a chance to cure.
The same has to be said of your primer and basecoat too. You need your final coat/s to have bonded to the layer below before you attempt anything like this. If your primer hasn't fully cured before you start any kind of abrasive weathering, you're simply going to rip the paint off. The primer/paint needs enough time to cure and shrink around the surface it's painted on to form a real bond.
yeah, I have done this with Vallejo Air as well. Basecoat was Tamiya though, then 2 different layers or Vallejo Air with The Humbrol liquid mask in between. Brushing away the liquid mask about 24-48h later..better results the longer I waited..
Haha, so true. And that is the good thing when you are busy with otherr things, you have to be patient to not rush it. Indeed, whenever I had a few days in between, my paint was so resilient.
Do you like the tank in this video? It's 3d-printed sci-fi/WWII hybrid aptly name the GRIM TIGER, by Grim Prints. Learn more at gumroad.com/grimprints. My buddy Brian at Grim Prints is creating awesome STLs which are designed with fitment and ease of use in mind. They all have holes ready for magnetization, modular components, and even a bottom compartment to store accessories in.
Really enjoyed it, bravo !
What is the recipee for the dirt on the side ? Some oils ?
Thank you, Rapha! It's Track Wash (enamel) and three different rust pigments. No oils.
Did you use a liquid mask for that vanquisher gun barrel as well? That's the most impressive rust effects I've seen on a dark metalic base. So cool.
Hi NN, thanks a lot, but no, I didn't. What I did was what is known as "airbrush stippling", that is create a very fine mottled texture with a lighter grey. The rust is a mixture of rust pigments and Track Wash. The effect came out better on the Grim Maus than here, I think.
So this can be done with acrylics but you have to be more gentle which make sense. But is there a need for clear coat?
Hi John, no, the clear coat would be applied before the pin wash.
I have recently used a lacquer paint in the manner you do to prime my models. I used Mr Surfacer with levelling thinner, as directed. I noticed that even thinned 50/50, it seemed spray "slow" and with poor coverage, yet simultaneously empty from the cup very quickly. It took so much to get full coverage on only 10 28mm models. Also, cleaning the airbrush after is TERRIBLE. So much sticky paint on the inside of the cup and down in the well near the nozzle. Am I doing something wrong? Have you encountered the same issues? I know that you are using a different product, but as it is lacquer I assume it is similar enough. Please help!
Hi Nigel, sorry to hear that! I have only ever used Mr. Surfacer as a rattlecan (which works great), so I’m afraid I cannot help a lot - but there are people in my Discord using it, and I can ask them. What I do know is this: Mr. Surfacer has a LOT of texture to it (the number indicates the grit), which is why you’re experiencing those problems. I would switch to AK Interactive’s Black Primer with microfiller, which needs NO dilution whatsoever and does not clog. To clean your airbrush now, make sure to get AK Xtreme Cleaner - it’ll take care of that in a second. Oh, and you need a big needle (0,4 or larger) to spray stuff like that with ease.
@@TheRaceForTerra Thank you for the speedy reply. I'll check those products out. I unfortunately only have a .35 needle, and that may be causing some issues as well. I was just extremely confused as to why the paint would be going on so slowly, but also my cup would empty so quickly.
Is the AK Primer with Microfiller as sturdy as the lacquer prime jobs you do? That's one of my main concerns after using Pro Acryl primer, which rubbed off with even soft pressure.
Thanks again.
@@nigeljones9215 Hi Nigel, yeah, I suspect the needle size is a contributing factor in your case. Yes, the AK primer I mentioned is what I use to get that robust primer I always talk about! Hope this helps, Enrique
@@VallesDelOso Hey, Enrique. I'll take a look at that, and see if it works for me. Thanks again and again.
Have you ever tried "Salt technic" instead of the liquid mask
Hi Frederick, I have seen it before, of course, but no, never tried it. I do chipping by brush, liquid mask chipping, mechanical chipping, hairspray chipping, and what I call "needle chipping" (see TX-130 video).
@@TheRaceForTerra you need to try it , salt is very easy to peel off and you can crush salt to have different chipping size , me i'll try chipping with masking liquid i'm curious to try this method ;)
@@troopeur Sounds good, I will!