H buds! I been building now for about 15 years.Mostly 1/35 whatever.I just came across weathering with oils.I love the effects! Im just about to do my first model today.M923.I really appreciate your vid on the subject!! Im subscribing! Thanks fellow Canadian!
Thanks Mike :) Oils are fantastic; I'm really happy with how the BT has turned out so far, but I've still got to do the tracks :) Busy this week though!
I agree, that the discovering of oils for use as washes has many benefits, as 36 indicated, including the long work time. Because the modeler has control over the intensity of the color via odorless turpentine, he or she can actually use colors that are not normally seen in modeling armor. The use of green diluted to a bare hint of color can alter the mood of the model, with green suggesting mold in a perpetually wet environment. And the good thing is that when dry, it is absolutely flat. I bought a student-grade (el cheapo) set of oils on Amazon, along with a bottle of turpentine, and it has become my go-to source for pin washes in black (and other colors not readily available commercially). Good throw-down of oils for washes as a subject, Panzermeister.
Really great video! :) I'm building a 1/144 Geara Zulu from Gundam Unicorn and the mobile suit has heavy design influences from WW2 German uniforms and weapons so I hope to apply these techniques to it
hello bro, great work there! I am new to afv modeling and have a question regarding the chipping . I think you used oil for the chipping efect, will dark brown or black work ofr that ? and do I need to mix with turpentine or did you use bare oil on the brush ? thanks!
+Slaither I'd use a dark brown rather than black because black might be too dark. I put a little bit of the paints on a piece of cardboard so that the linseed oil can drain out. That linseed oil is good if you're painting on a canvas but not good on a model. So yes, I leave the paints out on the cardboard for hours, maybe 12-24 hours, and then I use a little bit on thinner on my brush when I pick up a little of a the paint from the cardboard.
They take a while to dry.... usually I paint in the afternoon and it's dry by the next morning. I don't varnish after it so I can't tell you about that; I just dullcote it when I'm done the model, usually - sometimes I don't even do that to preserve the pigments.
Steve...do you do any kind of protective coating before weathering? I always do. I've messed up too many paint jobs not doing it. If you don't, how does that work?
+Gary Armstrong I don't use a protective coat here because I'm using oils over Tamiya acrylics and I've never had an issue with the oil thinner I use attacking any other paints. My enamel thinner can re-thin dried oils, so I always just do oils after enamels. I layer them all in a way that requires little to no protective coats because I'm lazy lol.
PZ- I do like your videos a lot. Very sound and no unnecessary mystery. Still trying to figure out the best way to use oils, although I've used them very often unless I'm in an all acrylic mood (maybe you sacrifice a little, but without a booth, it's kind of nice to use materials you could in theory eat.) I've used oil dot filters often, and am trying more highlights as recommended by Mike Rinaldi. Very good modelers use them, so it's worth plugging on. I'm not sure that the type of oil paint is especially important. There are economy oils like Reeves that are less than a $1 for a small tube, (I think they use chemical dyes instead of pigments) and I'm not sure they're much different than my more expensive types. (The good folk at MIG must make good money off Abteilung.) There are also water based oils (some expensive) that I haven't tried. All have longer drying time than enamels. Not quite sure that the ideal paint for canvas is necessarily required for styrene, especially if it's going to get pigments, mud, rust etc. Of course a tube of artist oils will last about three lifetimes so it's not a big expense. I do like a ritzy thinner. Called Gamsol by the very good US artist paint company Gamblin. They're basically a very refined mineral spirit but the odor is way less than standard Mineral Spirit or Turpenoid. $5 for 4 oz will last a long time. Keep the videos coming.
Eric Bergerud Thank you Eric! I use oils every way and for everything....and if I don't like it then I can take it off I love their long drying time... but acrylics have their uses too. I'm trying the highlights too and I used white oils for light drybrushing on my StuG's zimmerit; some places I didn't like the effect and I could easily wipe it down a bit. I like the brand that the white tube is better than the other three colours, I don't know but it's just nicer paint on the model. Water based oils? Aren't water and oil not miscible? Weird...guess that's why they're expensive :P Yeah MiG oils ..holy crap... how can they charge to much??? If I had to only use one paint on a model it would be oils, and I'm actually planning on weathering a model using solely oils for the chips, streaking, rust, wear, grime, dust, mud; that would be cool to see how effective it is! I don't know what's in the thinner that I use but it only thins oils. I use mineral spirits but they react with enamels too and can damage acrylics I find.... and then I lose older effects if I don't seal it, but this thinner that I use from Gotrick is excellent. It's actually a paintbrush solvent meant for cleaning after painting with oils I think but the experts at my local art store recommended it. So in this video I didn't even seal the paint down. Thanks for the comment Eric!
HI! I was wondering what type of oil thinner you were using. I used mineral spirits and distilled turpentine. Th tend to make the joints of my gundam model kit brittle and break.
lol I dunno; I bought the paints at my local art store and asked them what thinner went well with it. It's called "odorless solvent". Mineral spirits have done that to me too; the thinner in AK products (enamels also use mineral spirits as thinner) can break up glues. Don't put on much at a time and it should be fie, or seal the model beforehand, that will help stop the breaks :D
hi. i brush paint as i have no airbrush. I've just acryliced a model and want to use oils for this technique but what will the thinner do to the acrylic?
+Allan Stott Oil thinner shouldn't react with acrylic paints, but I'd recommend testing by brush painting on a spare piece of plastic and then putting the oil thinner on that and making sure nothing bad happens.
+Ed Montalvo maybe. "Mineral Spirits" is a very generic term used by a bunch of companies for a variety of actual specific thinners. Some might be too "hot" and will damage your model, while others might be fine.
Nope I never use any sealing coats on my models ever. I'm careful and use products that won't cause problems are ruin the previous effects. I like to work for long periods of time and can't afford to wait a day for a gloss coat to dry. ANd yes the base paints are Tamiya Acrylics thinned with their lacquer thinner so that they airbrush on better.
ok im doing a tamiya 1/35 t34/76 and i painted it a nice dark green color and ive got a vallejo model wash for green vehicles and i was wondering can i use it on a acrylic painted model ? and i think it would look good on it but idk its my first time useing a wash so could you help me man
I'd recommend sealing it just so that removing the oils and enamels from the base colour would be easier if you weren't happy with the results or such, but oils and enamels shouldn't react with acrylics - though AK can dissolve Tamiya Extra Thin glue...no idea why, but for example, AK washes + indi-link tracks glued together with extra thin = separate links once again.
It's the Trumpeter release. A good kit but it has terrible rubber tracks...luckily King Tiger tracks are the same style so aftermarket options are plentiful.
Thank you! The thinner I use is Gotrick brand Brush Cleaner/Solvent. I guess it still has a little odor but not much. It's very good as I think I mentioned in this old video it won't react with enamel paints as most thinners do.
Ah, I think I've seen someone doing it without a thinner, or drybrushing. If my model was painted with water-based acrylic, would you recommend drybrushing or with thinner? I'm really nervous when it comes to the thinner's effect on the paint, although as you showed it dries nicely.
From my experience I've never had any problems with acrylics getting messed up by thinners for oils and enamels...except Mig airbrush colours! Those will peel off the tank if you don't apply a sealing coat, it's really weird. I always use Tamiya and it always worked out fine. If you're nervous you can always do a test. Spray some of the base paint your going to use on a plastic spoon. The handle lets you hold it easily and the round eating end is big enough to paint and simulates the plastic of the model very well. Let that dry and then try your oil thinners over the plastic and see if there is a reaction. I can't tell you what technique I would recommend between drybrushing and doing effects with thinners as it all depends what you're going for. I drybrush oils over tracks to get that highlight to simulate the worn edges, and I usually just apply oils without thinner very delicately and precisely for chipping effects. But if I'm doing rust streaks, grime, dust buildup, a wash, or "rendering" (which is a faint blending effect that simulates discoloration - I did a video covering that technique called something like discolouration and chipping with oils) then you pretty much have to use thinners.
hey i want to build a model an i dont have airbrush but i do have acrylics can i just paint the model with the acrylics or should i use some thing else p.s. the model is the huey hog in 1:48 scale
Hey man :) Yes you can brush paint it in acrylics, but the key to brush painting is layering and some acrylics aren't good for that (Tamiya). I'm no expert on brush painting; I've had the airbush since the beginning; but I'm pretty sure enamels are the common practice for brush painting. But again, I'm no expert on that subject however there are some "hairy stick" painters in our community who could better answer your question :) Good luck on the Huey!
I've rarely had any luck with an oil wash on a matt surface. It usually dries in ugly lines, so I've started to apply it only to a gloss surface. The model you're demonstrating on is matt, so I was wondering if you've encountered any problems and what your solution is?
Thanks for commenting, Phillip. I always work over a matt surface and I've never had any real problems with it. I work more delicately so I like the matt surface because the pigments and the wash will bite into the surface more. I also find it easier to work with AK streaking grimes on this surface because the streaks just seem to wash away on a glossy surface. It's just my preference.
Eric Bergerud: if you want to use a wash you want matte - as Pz36 notes, that surface gives more bite and the paint will stay in the neighborhood of where you put it. Conversely if you want to do filters, gloss is much better because you're trying to impact the entire surface. Satin will work for either but you get a half measure - although you might want a satin finish above the hull, and flat matte below. I switch between matte, gloss and satin varnishes (Vallejo or Tamiya spray can) several times in every build.
I am wondering something about the "flow chart" of weathering, and slight bits of detail painting. My model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, and I have a gloss coating of Pledge Future clear coat on it. From there I've done nothing.yet I'd like to do these things: Small missing color application on a small area with acrylic, chipping effects with brush/sponge using likely Tamiya acrylics also (I do have oils and enamels available but not in the same colors), an oil gunk wash where you fully cover the piece with a paintbrush and slide it off with a cloth to get into the grooves /panel lines, oil streaking, and finally pigment powders. I'm not sure as to how the coating/sequence would go exactly? Again, I've already got a gloss layer on it to protect paint underneath. My guess is: 1.Slight detail paint with acrylics + chipping with acrylics - 2.Gloss coating again maybe? Or not. 3. Oil Gunk wash, as I know it can be done on gloss surfaces to easily remove the majority and keep the details. 4. Oil streaking on the same layer as the gunk wash after that has settled 5. Flat coat to seal in and make pigments stick 6. Pigments 7. Final coat Although your video is for tanks, this would be applied to a Gundam model, but I know the techniques apply to all modeling. Sorry for the long question, not many answers online! Wonderful video by the way!
Hello! Yes, your list there is exactly the order I would use. I actually do some gundam models too, but they don't appear on my channel often. I think you can probably get away with skipping the gloss coat at step 2, since you already have a gloss coat on after the base acrylic paints, and the oils and enamels shouldn't have any effect on the chipping you did in step 1, since acrylics are strong, especially those from Tamiya. But you can of course gloss at step 2 if you want just in case. Also, be careful with the "final coat" in step 7 as if you apply it too thick, it'll mess up the pigments you've put on. Build up the final coat in a bunch of thin layers to preserve the pigments if you can!
+Panzermeister36 Thank you for the quick response, wasn't sure and don't want to have things go wrong chemically or cover each other up. I'll keep the advice about the final coat in mind, and post pictures/links somewhere to show you. You've made some useful tutorials, glad to be subscribed.
So I haven't touched the model yet and something occurred to me: normally chipping is done with a dark grey that is the "bare metal" and a lighter grey that can be interpreted as primer. My model is painted in 3 colors: Tamiya German Grey, Tamiya Flat Yellow and accessory pieces done with Tamiya Metallic Grey. I would want to keep the colors consistent across them to show it's the same metal underneath, so what colors would I use for the chipping? And for the already metallic parts, would I just do rust and staining alone, since it can't chip being already metal? I figured maybe a metallic grey for the bare metal and a light grey for the primer color? Here's pictures of the parts that have base layer painted. imgur.com/a/MFQLn
Hey man. I'm on my phone right now so I can't load that link but what you're saying sounds good. Usually for the chipping we use a slightly lighter colour of the base colour to replicate either just the highlighted edge or the primer or something like that, it just looks good lol. Then you go in there with a darker colour and apply that to the centres of the chips to replicate rust or bare metal or whatnot. I did a video "top 5 weathering effects for beginners" where I show that stuff. So a lighter grey and metallic grey would be great, if that's what you're looking for - metallic chips. I usually would use a brown on a tank but that's just me, and you want to kind of tie in those chips with the metallic areas of the mech right. So go for it! Just one thing I'd recommend: don't to the metallic grey colour in the centre of every single chip, maybe like half of them. That way, you can have some chips just be that lighter grey primer colour to look like lighter scratches that didn't cut all the way down to the metal, or just more recent areas of wear and tear. I just find that this can help to tie the chipping in a little better with the base colour.
+Panzermeister36 Understood, I've got a variety of light greys to choose from as the primer and I'll keep the same Tamiya Metallic Grey I used on the accessories as the fully worn down to the metal color. Will watch that video you mentioned for a view of the technique itself. I wasn't intending to touch all the chipping mark with metal, I've seen how it works on real life cars first hand and there's definitely variety in how the paint erodes over time. Thanks!
No I mean Tamiya X-20 is isopropyl alcohol. AK Interactive or Mig or Wilder enamel thinners are what you're looking for. You could also get an artist's oil brush cleaning solvent from your local art store.
H buds! I been building now for about 15 years.Mostly 1/35 whatever.I just came across weathering with oils.I love the effects! Im just about to do my first model today.M923.I really appreciate your vid on the subject!! Im subscribing! Thanks fellow Canadian!
I really appreciate this video, as well as your gentle demeanor. It's refreshing. Thanks.
+stevethefishdotnet Thank you Steve! I really appreciate your compliments :) thanks
+stevethefishdotnet the next Bob Ross?
Very interesting video and a stunning finish.
I gotta tell you Evan, that looks freaking awesome buddy. That turned out perfectly. Good job on showing your work too.
Well done dude!!!
Thanks Mike :) Oils are fantastic; I'm really happy with how the BT has turned out so far, but I've still got to do the tracks :) Busy this week though!
Really nice tutorial!
Before I had a bit of problems working with oils but now I figured it out. Thanks!
Have a good day!
Thanks man :) I`m glad it helped! :D
I agree, that the discovering of oils for use as washes has many benefits, as 36 indicated, including the long work time. Because the modeler has control over the intensity of the color via odorless turpentine, he or she can actually use colors that are not normally seen in modeling armor. The use of green diluted to a bare hint of color can alter the mood of the model, with green suggesting mold in a perpetually wet environment. And the good thing is that when dry, it is absolutely flat. I bought a student-grade (el cheapo) set of oils on Amazon, along with a bottle of turpentine, and it has become my go-to source for pin washes in black (and other colors not readily available commercially). Good throw-down of oils for washes as a subject, Panzermeister.
Great stuff Evan! I'll be sure to use these techniques!
Thanks :) I hope this helps you out!
Great tutorial, sir.
Excellent video. I'll definately be trying some of this on the Merkava I am building.
Thanks :) I'm glad you liked the video - I hope it helps you on the merk
Very nice tutorial, thanks for sharing your techniques
Thanks man, no problem :D
Great channel!
Really great video! :) I'm building a 1/144 Geara Zulu from Gundam Unicorn and the mobile suit has heavy design influences from WW2 German uniforms and weapons so I hope to apply these techniques to it
Thank you! That sounds pretty cool :) I have a gundam kit I bought too that I'm looking forward to building and painting!
Good tutorial. Very well done and clearly explained. Good tip about pouring thinners down brush handle...that'll save me a lot of spills. Lol
Thanks Mark :) Or you could siphon-feed the thinners in lol
Holy shit that's exactly what I needed to learn how to use oils ^^ Thank you!
:D Pleasure to be of service! Good luck with the oils :)
Thx for the tut
Really gonna try the chipping out
Thanks for the comment man :D Remember the key to chipping is subtlety :)
Good tutorial. Thanks.
Thank for watching :) Hope it is of use!
hello bro, great work there! I am new to afv modeling and have a question regarding the chipping . I think you used oil for the chipping efect, will dark brown or black work ofr that ? and do I need to mix with turpentine or did you use bare oil on the brush ? thanks!
+Slaither I'd use a dark brown rather than black because black might be too dark. I put a little bit of the paints on a piece of cardboard so that the linseed oil can drain out. That linseed oil is good if you're painting on a canvas but not good on a model. So yes, I leave the paints out on the cardboard for hours, maybe 12-24 hours, and then I use a little bit on thinner on my brush when I pick up a little of a the paint from the cardboard.
Very nice video. I've just started weathering using MIG 502 oils. Waiting to dry and varnish after... Any tips on drying and varnishing the oils?
They take a while to dry.... usually I paint in the afternoon and it's dry by the next morning. I don't varnish after it so I can't tell you about that; I just dullcote it when I'm done the model, usually - sometimes I don't even do that to preserve the pigments.
your BT-7 and King Tiger??? are awesome!!!
I will definetitely use streaking in my panther for the kursk GB
Thanks Joe :) Glad to help!
good tutorial bud oils are a god send :) happy modelling :)
Thanks Faron :D Yup I'm lovin' 'em!
impressive! i'm new to all of this.
Me too...
Nice tutorial,t thanks for sahring
Steve...do you do any kind of protective coating before weathering? I always do. I've messed up too many paint jobs not doing it. If you don't, how does that work?
+Gary Armstrong I don't use a protective coat here because I'm using oils over Tamiya acrylics and I've never had an issue with the oil thinner I use attacking any other paints. My enamel thinner can re-thin dried oils, so I always just do oils after enamels. I layer them all in a way that requires little to no protective coats because I'm lazy lol.
+Panzermeister36 Laziness is what I'm looking for! Laziness is the mother of invention and fine art!! HaHa!
PZ- I do like your videos a lot. Very sound and no unnecessary mystery.
Still trying to figure out the best way to use oils, although I've used them very often unless I'm in an all acrylic mood (maybe you sacrifice a little, but without a booth, it's kind of nice to use materials you could in theory eat.) I've used oil dot filters often, and am trying more highlights as recommended by Mike Rinaldi. Very good modelers use them, so it's worth plugging on.
I'm not sure that the type of oil paint is especially important. There are economy oils like Reeves that are less than a $1 for a small tube, (I think they use chemical dyes instead of pigments) and I'm not sure they're much different than my more expensive types. (The good folk at MIG must make good money off Abteilung.) There are also water based oils (some expensive) that I haven't tried. All have longer drying time than enamels. Not quite sure that the ideal paint for canvas is necessarily required for styrene, especially if it's going to get pigments, mud, rust etc. Of course a tube of artist oils will last about three lifetimes so it's not a big expense.
I do like a ritzy thinner. Called Gamsol by the very good US artist paint company Gamblin. They're basically a very refined mineral spirit but the odor is way less than standard Mineral Spirit or Turpenoid. $5 for 4 oz will last a long time.
Keep the videos coming.
Eric Bergerud Thank you Eric! I use oils every way and for everything....and if I don't like it then I can take it off I love their long drying time... but acrylics have their uses too. I'm trying the highlights too and I used white oils for light drybrushing on my StuG's zimmerit; some places I didn't like the effect and I could easily wipe it down a bit.
I like the brand that the white tube is better than the other three colours, I don't know but it's just nicer paint on the model. Water based oils? Aren't water and oil not miscible? Weird...guess that's why they're expensive :P Yeah MiG oils ..holy crap... how can they charge to much??? If I had to only use one paint on a model it would be oils, and I'm actually planning on weathering a model using solely oils for the chips, streaking, rust, wear, grime, dust, mud; that would be cool to see how effective it is!
I don't know what's in the thinner that I use but it only thins oils. I use mineral spirits but they react with enamels too and can damage acrylics I find.... and then I lose older effects if I don't seal it, but this thinner that I use from Gotrick is excellent. It's actually a paintbrush solvent meant for cleaning after painting with oils I think but the experts at my local art store recommended it. So in this video I didn't even seal the paint down.
Thanks for the comment Eric!
thanks for the help
No problem man, my pleasure! :D
Very helpful video :) thanks for shearing... And just in case...
FIRST!!!
Thanks man :)
HI! I was wondering what type of oil thinner you were using. I used mineral spirits and distilled turpentine. Th tend to make the joints of my gundam model kit brittle and break.
lol I dunno; I bought the paints at my local art store and asked them what thinner went well with it. It's called "odorless solvent".
Mineral spirits have done that to me too; the thinner in AK products (enamels also use mineral spirits as thinner) can break up glues. Don't put on much at a time and it should be fie, or seal the model beforehand, that will help stop the breaks :D
alright, will try that! thanks for the advice. Great channel man!more power!
cool video man thanks
Thanks Ignacio!
hi. i brush paint as i have no airbrush. I've just acryliced a model and want to use oils for this technique but what will the thinner do to the acrylic?
+Allan Stott Oil thinner shouldn't react with acrylic paints, but I'd recommend testing by brush painting on a spare piece of plastic and then putting the oil thinner on that and making sure nothing bad happens.
do you varnish before the wash or no? id prefer not to since varnish looks terrible
Can you use mineral spirits for an oil thinner?
+Ed Montalvo maybe. "Mineral Spirits" is a very generic term used by a bunch of companies for a variety of actual specific thinners. Some might be too "hot" and will damage your model, while others might be fine.
Do you use acrylic paint on the model when airbrushing?
Yes I always use acrylic paints, either AK Interactive or more usually (and in the case of this model) Tamiya Paints.
awesome video! in terms of cleaning the oils from your hands, try dish washing detergent - cuts across any type of grease :)
orange3D Thanks buddy!
Are you putting these oil base washes on top of acrylic? Is there a gloss clear coat on top of acrylic paint? Thanks.
Nope I never use any sealing coats on my models ever. I'm careful and use products that won't cause problems are ruin the previous effects. I like to work for long periods of time and can't afford to wait a day for a gloss coat to dry. ANd yes the base paints are Tamiya Acrylics thinned with their lacquer thinner so that they airbrush on better.
Thanks! Appreciate your prompt response. Build on.
ok im doing a tamiya 1/35 t34/76 and i painted it a nice dark green color and ive got a vallejo model wash for green vehicles and i was wondering can i use it on a acrylic painted model ? and i think it would look good on it but idk its my first time useing a wash so could you help me man
Is the vallejo wash enamel? as long as it's not acrylic also it should be fine
You could gloss seal the model to be extra sure though :)
ah hmm alright ill try that out thanks for the tips man
nice video thanks for the info
just got some oil paint to try this as well :-)
Thanks man :) Oils are awesome!
yeah have made up a pin wash .
just playing around with the amount of oil paint i have to put in
Do you want to seal the paint with future or something before doing this, or does the oil paint thinner not damage the underlying paint?
I'd recommend sealing it just so that removing the oils and enamels from the base colour would be easier if you weren't happy with the results or such, but oils and enamels shouldn't react with acrylics - though AK can dissolve Tamiya Extra Thin glue...no idea why, but for example, AK washes + indi-link tracks glued together with extra thin = separate links once again.
Hmm, all right, cheers.
That E50 is beautiful, what company is it?
It's the Trumpeter release. A good kit but it has terrible rubber tracks...luckily King Tiger tracks are the same style so aftermarket options are plentiful.
Very comprehensive video, easy to follow. Instant sub! One thing though, what thinner exactly did you use there, and is it odorous?
Thank you! The thinner I use is Gotrick brand Brush Cleaner/Solvent. I guess it still has a little odor but not much. It's very good as I think I mentioned in this old video it won't react with enamel paints as most thinners do.
Ah, I think I've seen someone doing it without a thinner, or drybrushing. If my model was painted with water-based acrylic, would you recommend drybrushing or with thinner? I'm really nervous when it comes to the thinner's effect on the paint, although as you showed it dries nicely.
From my experience I've never had any problems with acrylics getting messed up by thinners for oils and enamels...except Mig airbrush colours! Those will peel off the tank if you don't apply a sealing coat, it's really weird. I always use Tamiya and it always worked out fine. If you're nervous you can always do a test. Spray some of the base paint your going to use on a plastic spoon. The handle lets you hold it easily and the round eating end is big enough to paint and simulates the plastic of the model very well. Let that dry and then try your oil thinners over the plastic and see if there is a reaction. I can't tell you what technique I would recommend between drybrushing and doing effects with thinners as it all depends what you're going for. I drybrush oils over tracks to get that highlight to simulate the worn edges, and I usually just apply oils without thinner very delicately and precisely for chipping effects. But if I'm doing rust streaks, grime, dust buildup, a wash, or "rendering" (which is a faint blending effect that simulates discoloration - I did a video covering that technique called something like discolouration and chipping with oils) then you pretty much have to use thinners.
Will do thanks!
Can you use standard thinner to thin Testors enamel paints? Whenever I do the paint seems to not be completely dissolved
It's likely you're using acrylic thinner by accident then. You need enamel thinner for enamel paint.
@@Panzermeister36 alright thanks
hey i want to build a model an i dont have airbrush but i do have acrylics can i just paint the model with the acrylics or should i use some thing else p.s. the model is the huey hog in 1:48 scale
Hey man :) Yes you can brush paint it in acrylics, but the key to brush painting is layering and some acrylics aren't good for that (Tamiya). I'm no expert on brush painting; I've had the airbush since the beginning; but I'm pretty sure enamels are the common practice for brush painting. But again, I'm no expert on that subject however there are some "hairy stick" painters in our community who could better answer your question :) Good luck on the Huey!
with these technic, does it possible to do jet or even plane exhaust stains?
I don't see why not! It should work just fine :) Oils are very versatile.
Ok thanks : )
Did you try it? How did it go?
I've rarely had any luck with an oil wash on a matt surface. It usually dries in ugly lines, so I've started to apply it only to a gloss surface.
The model you're demonstrating on is matt, so I was wondering if you've encountered any problems and what your solution is?
Thanks for commenting, Phillip. I always work over a matt surface and I've never had any real problems with it. I work more delicately so I like the matt surface because the pigments and the wash will bite into the surface more. I also find it easier to work with AK streaking grimes on this surface because the streaks just seem to wash away on a glossy surface. It's just my preference.
Eric Bergerud: if you want to use a wash you want matte - as Pz36 notes, that surface gives more bite and the paint will stay in the neighborhood of where you put it. Conversely if you want to do filters, gloss is much better because you're trying to impact the entire surface. Satin will work for either but you get a half measure - although you might want a satin finish above the hull, and flat matte below. I switch between matte, gloss and satin varnishes (Vallejo or Tamiya spray can) several times in every build.
Very good vid
Thanks man :D
I am going to Airbrush my new Panther D soon and was wondering if i should use acrylic or enamel? and what are benefits and consequences for both?
Go acrylic mate. Much easy to clean.
thankyou for your advice!!
I would agree...I've never used enamels though, but acrylics are super easy and work very well in pretty much all regards. I like Tamiya ones a lot.
Lately I'm finding LIFECOLOR works best for me. =)
I am wondering something about the "flow chart" of weathering, and slight bits of detail painting. My model is painted with Tamiya acrylics, and I have a gloss coating of Pledge Future clear coat on it. From there I've done nothing.yet I'd like to do these things: Small missing color application on a small area with acrylic, chipping effects with brush/sponge using likely Tamiya acrylics also (I do have oils and enamels available but not in the same colors), an oil gunk wash where you fully cover the piece with a paintbrush and slide it off with a cloth to get into the grooves /panel lines, oil streaking, and finally pigment powders. I'm not sure as to how the coating/sequence would go exactly?
Again, I've already got a gloss layer on it to protect paint underneath. My guess is:
1.Slight detail paint with acrylics + chipping with acrylics -
2.Gloss coating again maybe? Or not.
3. Oil Gunk wash, as I know it can be done on gloss surfaces to easily remove the majority and keep the details.
4. Oil streaking on the same layer as the gunk wash after that has settled
5. Flat coat to seal in and make pigments stick
6. Pigments
7. Final coat
Although your video is for tanks, this would be applied to a Gundam model, but I know the techniques apply to all modeling. Sorry for the long question, not many answers online! Wonderful video by the way!
Hello! Yes, your list there is exactly the order I would use. I actually do some gundam models too, but they don't appear on my channel often. I think you can probably get away with skipping the gloss coat at step 2, since you already have a gloss coat on after the base acrylic paints, and the oils and enamels shouldn't have any effect on the chipping you did in step 1, since acrylics are strong, especially those from Tamiya. But you can of course gloss at step 2 if you want just in case. Also, be careful with the "final coat" in step 7 as if you apply it too thick, it'll mess up the pigments you've put on. Build up the final coat in a bunch of thin layers to preserve the pigments if you can!
+Panzermeister36 Thank you for the quick response, wasn't sure and don't want to have things go wrong chemically or cover each other up. I'll keep the advice about the final coat in mind, and post pictures/links somewhere to show you. You've made some useful tutorials, glad to be subscribed.
So I haven't touched the model yet and something occurred to me: normally chipping is done with a dark grey that is the "bare metal" and a lighter grey that can be interpreted as primer. My model is painted in 3 colors: Tamiya German Grey, Tamiya Flat Yellow and accessory pieces done with Tamiya Metallic Grey. I would want to keep the colors consistent across them to show it's the same metal underneath, so what colors would I use for the chipping? And for the already metallic parts, would I just do rust and staining alone, since it can't chip being already metal?
I figured maybe a metallic grey for the bare metal and a light grey for the primer color?
Here's pictures of the parts that have base layer painted.
imgur.com/a/MFQLn
Hey man. I'm on my phone right now so I can't load that link but what you're saying sounds good.
Usually for the chipping we use a slightly lighter colour of the base colour to replicate either just the highlighted edge or the primer or something like that, it just looks good lol. Then you go in there with a darker colour and apply that to the centres of the chips to replicate rust or bare metal or whatnot. I did a video "top 5 weathering effects for beginners" where I show that stuff.
So a lighter grey and metallic grey would be great, if that's what you're looking for - metallic chips. I usually would use a brown on a tank but that's just me, and you want to kind of tie in those chips with the metallic areas of the mech right. So go for it!
Just one thing I'd recommend: don't to the metallic grey colour in the centre of every single chip, maybe like half of them. That way, you can have some chips just be that lighter grey primer colour to look like lighter scratches that didn't cut all the way down to the metal, or just more recent areas of wear and tear. I just find that this can help to tie the chipping in a little better with the base colour.
+Panzermeister36 Understood, I've got a variety of light greys to choose from as the primer and I'll keep the same Tamiya Metallic Grey I used on the accessories as the fully worn down to the metal color. Will watch that video you mentioned for a view of the technique itself. I wasn't intending to touch all the chipping mark with metal, I've seen how it works on real life cars first hand and there's definitely variety in how the paint erodes over time. Thanks!
what would be the difference between series 1 and series 2 paints? obviously quality, but what about it makes it better quality?
+Blake Piercy I actually don't know, but series 2 is usually more expensive, so I think it's a much more complex mix of pigments
thanks for the answer!
WHAT IS THE MARK OF THIS KIT?
THANKS
Yeah, I am curious too ! )))
Can I use Tamiaya Thinner for oil paint???
No it won't work out well. That's isopropyl alcohol.
Isopropyl alcohol? Where I can find them? Paint store? Book store? ?
No I mean Tamiya X-20 is isopropyl alcohol. AK Interactive or Mig or Wilder enamel thinners are what you're looking for. You could also get an artist's oil brush cleaning solvent from your local art store.
Okay, thx
hey buddy did you use TURPENTINE ? cause it attacks my paints (i use enamels)
Yes Turpentine will attack enamels...you can use it as paint thinner for both oils and enamels. I base painted in acrylics for this reason :)
Panzermeister36 thanks. so what can i use to thin the oils when i paint with humbrol enamels? and with tamiya acrilics?
Ignacio Gonzalez I honestly don't know...I don't base base with enamels, only wash with them. Sorry.
no problem mate, thanks!!
What is your model of tank?
Tamiya BT-7 model 1937
Ahhh...the bt-5...or is it the t-26. I forget.
BT-7 model 1937
Ah...I new it was somewhere in between lol
You've got a great eye, but dude, just any old thinner wont work. You need the right stuff. Gum spirits is usually used.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Styrene
...?
You guys were talking about styrene on the hangout you were a guest on earlier on, that got me thinking ''what is it really?
1Ajius Ah okay :)
men you explain much and paint little, you paint more and less explain men but the titurial is fantastic
Thank you for the feedback! I'll keep that in mind next time.
that oil will last forever so 7 8 10 dollars is very inexpensive
+bleedinggums roberts Yeah, that is true. It's expensive at first but I won't need to buy any more. Unless I do some actual canvas painting with it.
good call and great video
nul'nul,nul