As a machinist and mechanic there is some fascinating stuff going on (I just watched your rotor blade build video) When you don't have drill table clamped to column, the table will 'droop' by several thousandths of inch, (probably around 0.2mm or more, never measured mine in mm) Added to the inaccuracy of drill vice you are probably drilling holes not close perpendicular in components. (I've checked a few drill vices and found up to 1mm tilt in them) Also, when you have stainless steel and aluminium in contact with each other you will get pretty severe electrostatic (electrolytic?) corrosion. In my experience, Teflon paste is a real good barrier/insulator as it's pretty much inert. (I've been using plumbers paste about 30 years but bicycle Teflon grease is a bit better, designed for plastic components that 'ordinary' grease makes brittle)) Don't use any form of copper grease as it makes things even worse. (I forget details but it's ion transfer thing) You may want to swap out the deep groove ball bearings for some thrust bearings as they will fail with as little as 90 pounds (40Kg?) side loading I've seen it happen on motorcycles when spacers are missing in as little as 100 miles. (although I have no idea of the tail rotor thrust?) There are several different types but a relatively cheap and easy to find double row thrust bearing is found on outer wheel hub on front wheel drive cars, something older from Japan or maybe older VW or Mini would probably be small enough to do the job 100% better than deep groove radial bearings with probably an unlimited service life as you will be putting far less power through it. (plus, washing out the grease and using a synthetic gear oil will provide better cooler lubrication) It would be a good idea to fit same or similar bearing under crown wheel as well although it will almost certainly need new bearing housings in both positions. Fitting breathers to sealed units may be a good idea to prevent leaks
You put your parts into your vise without cleaning shavings out of the way and deburring them. Same thing on the lathe chuck. Your parts aren't running true in the lathe. You assemble the bearings into the housings with your hands covered with chips which fills the bearings with shavings. You need to work with a machinist mentor for a little while to learn basic machine operation. unless of course you have a death wish flying this craft. If so you are well on your way to success. I say this with great affection and a big hug like your favorite uncle or shop teacher. I admire your guts to try all of these skills just log a lot of hours close to the ground and listen to these gears and bearings carefully. Two thumbs up to you as a person and only one thumb down to what you show in this video.
Glad to see I wasn't the only one... there seems to be a coating of fine metal shavings all over everything all the way through, maybe he needs new glasses
I was talking to my buddy Fred. He says I have to be smarter than the metal. (Ima wait on building my copter for a couple of days) 😂🤣😂 Truth; Im impressed with just the two videos I’ve seen. Your skill and attention to detail is required for a good build. Thanks for sharing man.
Good progress and nice videos. Something that may help when boring on the lathe, I notice you leave the boring bar out very long from the tool post. As a result you can see chatter in the finish, a general rule to follow is only have the bore bar sticking out from the tool post the bare minimum and maximum of 3x the diameter of the bore bar for standard bars and 5x for solid carbide bars. This will help the chatter problem. Cheers
Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the blades. There is a Brazilian furia with videos on how he made the blades but with many rivets it isn't an ideal design.
When you say point welded is that what I would call spot welded? Personally I wouldn't weld anything regarding blades, fatigue cracking would be the worry. Making the blades is certainly a challenge, and even more so without a suitable milling machine but it's still possible. My first set of blades I made would work but it's keeping the chord wise mass distribution at 25% which is hard. If you don't achieve this then collective forces can be a problem. The mosquito blades I like the most, cnc machined leading edge spar and single skin wrapped around and epoxied in place. Composite fx have spent a fortune in machinery to make them but I believe I could make them achieving a similar result with very little investment in tooling.
Try building wooden blades. I made wooden blades with a steel spar in the front for CG balance similar to the ones used in BELL47. For an 8inch chord I ended up with 27% CG, they worked prity good and flew well. But making them is a labour intensive task. I can make them for you if you like.
Wood is a great material for blades but the weight of the blade needs to be the same as the furia plans to make sure the centrifugal forces are the same.
congratulations for your impeccable work, I've been following you since the beginning of this project and I'm amazed at every detail you go through, I can't wait to see you finished and already flying. a big hug from Brazil 🤜🤛
This is awesome. I've always wanted to build a helicopter since I was a very young boy. @14:05 - I'm curious what bearings are you using there? Wouldn't they need to handle some axial forces from the two gears under constant stress? Keep the videos coming. Looking forward to your first flight!
in angle grinder are similar gears and very hard grease that when gears spin, grease is all around casing, and gear are dry, so i diluted that grease with oil to become liquid, so you should do same or use some thick oil for gears, otherwise gears will wear very fast
And yes, treat yourself to an aviation safety wire twist kit and do all the nuts n bolts that could ruin your day. You’ll be grateful you did. Oh, and try to balance moving parts it’s a chopper and named appropriately.
The bearings… ? What will keep them central or pre loaded etc. where did you get data they seem too industrial for such an important role. Run in periods many questions. Otherwise great job. 🙋🏻♂️👍🏻
it looks so nice!, could we see the motor working in next videos? i'm so curious about all the motor instalation, good job by the way, i love this serie
increíble iniciativa felicitaciones dos observaciones: 1. me parece que las pistas de los engranajes o tienen que ser más anchas o tienen que tener más dientes porque al girar tienen un sonido que no me convence 2. vuelvo a preguntar si no es obligatorio que el material de transmisión de movimientos debe ser aluminio? porque el acero es muy pesado saludos desde el Perú
@@ultralighthelicopter Okay, Thankya for the reply back. Love your videos & how far you come along on this single place helicopter! Keep up the good work. Gonnuh be an excitng moment for not only you, but for all us viewers to your channel when flight tests & 1st real flight of this bird! We're all chearing for ya😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
You can"t make adjustment on gears.. I don't why straight teets on gears ....why not helicoidal ... Many problems whit this design... . Bad back lash resulta on noise , quick wear and prematura failure of gear box .... It Will not work ...... Proper gear back lash is required.....
if that was the only problem, the machining / tooling / assembly is shaddy, at best. Even if the design was proper it would seriously compromise everything. THis guy seems smart, i dont know how he doesnt learn proper machining / tooling / assembly technics and rules first.
SAAAWEET. YAA Baaaby. CONGRATULATIONS 🍾. GETTING THERE. QUESTION. I was reviewing my downloaded folder on my home computer. To see what I could clean out. I came across helicopter plans called Furi or something like that. I opened it up and let’s say the rotor head page, to me looked just like the parts you machined. Except it didn’t show the details of measurements needed to make those parts. Was that the helicopter yours is based on???
See how i Install the Tail Rotor Gearbox here: ua-cam.com/video/zXeehul_xYo/v-deo.html
Sangat detail bos, ingin tau proses buat baling balingnya, ilmu yang bermanfaat.
As a machinist and mechanic there is some fascinating stuff going on (I just watched your rotor blade build video)
When you don't have drill table clamped to column, the table will 'droop' by several thousandths of inch, (probably around 0.2mm or more, never measured mine in mm)
Added to the inaccuracy of drill vice you are probably drilling holes not close perpendicular in components. (I've checked a few drill vices and found up to 1mm tilt in them)
Also, when you have stainless steel and aluminium in contact with each other you will get pretty severe electrostatic (electrolytic?) corrosion.
In my experience, Teflon paste is a real good barrier/insulator as it's pretty much inert. (I've been using plumbers paste about 30 years but bicycle Teflon grease is a bit better, designed for plastic components that 'ordinary' grease makes brittle))
Don't use any form of copper grease as it makes things even worse. (I forget details but it's ion transfer thing)
You may want to swap out the deep groove ball bearings for some thrust bearings as they will fail with as little as 90 pounds (40Kg?) side loading
I've seen it happen on motorcycles when spacers are missing in as little as 100 miles. (although I have no idea of the tail rotor thrust?)
There are several different types but a relatively cheap and easy to find double row thrust bearing is found on outer wheel hub on front wheel drive cars, something older from Japan or maybe older VW or Mini would probably be small enough to do the job 100% better than deep groove radial bearings with probably an unlimited service life as you will be putting far less power through it. (plus, washing out the grease and using a synthetic gear oil will provide better cooler lubrication)
It would be a good idea to fit same or similar bearing under crown wheel as well although it will almost certainly need new bearing housings in both positions.
Fitting breathers to sealed units may be a good idea to prevent leaks
You put your parts into your vise without cleaning shavings out of the way and deburring them. Same thing on the lathe chuck. Your parts aren't running true in the lathe. You assemble the bearings into the housings with your hands covered with chips which fills the bearings with shavings. You need to work with a machinist mentor for a little while to learn basic machine operation. unless of course you have a death wish flying this craft. If so you are well on your way to success. I say this with great affection and a big hug like your favorite uncle or shop teacher. I admire your guts to try all of these skills just log a lot of hours close to the ground and listen to these gears and bearings carefully. Two thumbs up to you as a person and only one thumb down to what you show in this video.
yes, the list of problems with the machinig / tooling and general assembly is infinite, it is hard to believe.
Glad to see I wasn't the only one... there seems to be a coating of fine metal shavings all over everything all the way through, maybe he needs new glasses
Olá, vai ter oleo ai dentro dessa peça onde ficam as engrenagens ou não.
Yea. Mesinnya bubut banyak kelebihannya yes thank you semangat sir
I've got 50 + years of experience, with A & P . Military and çivilian aircraft. That gear box needs safety wire, including the lubrication plug.
Finnaly, can't wait for the first flight, greetings from indonesian
I was talking to my buddy Fred. He says I have to be smarter than the metal. (Ima wait on building my copter for a couple of days) 😂🤣😂
Truth; Im impressed with just the two videos I’ve seen. Your skill and attention to detail is required for a good build. Thanks for sharing man.
Good progress and nice videos. Something that may help when boring on the lathe, I notice you leave the boring bar out very long from the tool post. As a result you can see chatter in the finish, a general rule to follow is only have the bore bar sticking out from the tool post the bare minimum and maximum of 3x the diameter of the bore bar for standard bars and 5x for solid carbide bars. This will help the chatter problem. Cheers
@btd1982 Thanks for the constructive comment. I will keep it in mind. i enjoy your videos, thumbs up :-)
Looking forward to seeing how you tackle the blades. There is a Brazilian furia with videos on how he made the blades but with many rivets it isn't an ideal design.
When you say point welded is that what I would call spot welded? Personally I wouldn't weld anything regarding blades, fatigue cracking would be the worry. Making the blades is certainly a challenge, and even more so without a suitable milling machine but it's still possible. My first set of blades I made would work but it's keeping the chord wise mass distribution at 25% which is hard. If you don't achieve this then collective forces can be a problem. The mosquito blades I like the most, cnc machined leading edge spar and single skin wrapped around and epoxied in place. Composite fx have spent a fortune in machinery to make them but I believe I could make them achieving a similar result with very little investment in tooling.
Try building wooden blades. I made wooden blades with a steel spar in the front for CG balance similar to the ones used in BELL47. For an 8inch chord I ended up with 27% CG, they worked prity good and flew well. But making them is a labour intensive task. I can make them for you if you like.
Wood is a great material for blades but the weight of the blade needs to be the same as the furia plans to make sure the centrifugal forces are the same.
Safety wire ?
Muy buen video
congratulations for your impeccable work, I've been following you since the beginning of this project and I'm amazed at every detail you go through, I can't wait to see you finished and already flying. a big hug from Brazil 🤜🤛
Nice Design !
👌👍👍👍👍
This is awesome. I've always wanted to build a helicopter since I was a very young boy. @14:05 - I'm curious what bearings are you using there? Wouldn't they need to handle some axial forces from the two gears under constant stress? Keep the videos coming. Looking forward to your first flight!
Awesome congratulations for your work.
in angle grinder are similar gears and very hard grease that when gears spin, grease is all around casing, and gear are dry, so i diluted that grease with oil to become liquid, so you should do same or use some thick oil for gears, otherwise gears will wear very fast
Vamos vamos que queda poco 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
And yes, treat yourself to an aviation safety wire twist kit and do all the nuts n bolts that could ruin your day. You’ll be grateful you did. Oh, and try to balance moving parts it’s a chopper and named appropriately.
Nice machining are you able to adjust the “mesh” on the bevel gear as I know (found out the hard way) it’s crucial .
Your damn good man. I think your are engineered. Just done it man. Let it fly quick
Clean build... Keep it up
Please, oh please don’t play that Rap , I can’t call it music. But don’t play it. I’m really enjoying the build. You’re very talented. Thank you Wiz
so cool to see an other swiss guy passionate by these kind of machin, im from wallis where are you frome ?
I like your skill set. Great job.
Seem likely to see your first test flight. Your work is amazing.
The bearings… ? What will keep them central or pre loaded etc. where did you get data they seem too industrial for such an important role. Run in periods many questions. Otherwise great job. 🙋🏻♂️👍🏻
Perfekt.Tolle Serie.Macht wiklich spass beim zusehen.Bin selbst ultraleicht Pilot!
Danke. Das freut mich!
What kit is your bird?
Thanks.
Ansioso pra ver pronto e voando.
I'm following your channel here in Brazil. State of Parana.
Very interesting project.
it looks so nice!, could we see the motor working in next videos? i'm so curious about all the motor instalation, good job by the way, i love this serie
Just my opinion but all those part could use weight reduction cuts applied to them. Remember ounces means pounds and pounds means pain.
You are really fantastic !
Ausgezeichnet 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
you should use allen key bolts they keep everything neat and clean
You use al. 2017 A or something different?
Like nice fabrication waiting for the next
Top demais parabéns vc tem um grande conhecimento
I would reconsider the bevel set up procedure for proper gear mesh and safety wire the fasteners which is probably be 304 stainless.
How are you coming along with the tail section? And how difficult are helical (?) gears to make?
how will you control the pitch of your tail rotor? or is it designed as fixed?
Nice . Thank U.
What oil will you put inside?
I do not know jet
increíble iniciativa
felicitaciones
dos observaciones:
1. me parece que las pistas de los engranajes o tienen que ser más anchas o tienen que tener más dientes porque al girar tienen un sonido que no me convence
2. vuelvo a preguntar si no es obligatorio que el material de transmisión de movimientos debe ser aluminio? porque el acero es muy pesado
saludos desde el Perú
Excelente!
Job well done👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼! Did you machine the 2 pinion gears yourself or are they a pre- manufactured set???
Thank you :-) Yes, the 2 pinion gears are a pre- manufactured set...
@@ultralighthelicopter Okay, Thankya for the reply back. Love your videos & how far you come along on this single place helicopter! Keep up the good work. Gonnuh be an excitng moment for not only you, but for all us viewers to your channel when flight tests & 1st real flight of this bird! We're all chearing for ya😁😁😁😁😁😁😁😁👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
👍😍🔥
👏👏👏👏
One word - Locktite
How can I find the tail blades?
По скорей хочу увидеть первый полет
на этом редукторе может летать только камикадзе
when your helicopter can fly i always wait it.
למה אתה נעלם הרבה זמן , עבודה טובה
You can"t make adjustment on gears..
I don't why straight teets on gears ....why not helicoidal ...
Many problems whit this design... .
Bad back lash resulta on noise , quick wear and prematura failure of gear box ....
It Will not work ......
Proper gear back lash is required.....
if that was the only problem, the machining / tooling / assembly is shaddy, at best. Even if the design was proper it would seriously compromise everything. THis guy seems smart, i dont know how he doesnt learn proper machining / tooling / assembly technics and rules first.
Computor milling machine at home? Really?
Can you sell ready-made pieces
Hola hermano que precio tiene eso?
Part 12 so me
Grease is not right. Only liquid oil !
Yes i will add liquid oil before first start up. The grease is just temporary to protect the gears from wear.
@@ultralighthelicopter good job
your bad ass how much $
SAAAWEET. YAA Baaaby. CONGRATULATIONS 🍾. GETTING THERE. QUESTION. I was reviewing my downloaded folder on my home computer. To see what I could clean out. I came across helicopter plans called Furi or something like that. I opened it up and let’s say the rotor head page, to me looked just like the parts you machined. Except it didn’t show the details of measurements needed to make those parts. Was that the helicopter yours is based on???
Hy Bruce. Yes my build is based on the furia plans.
@@ultralighthelicopter I now see towards end pages the mechanical measurements for the parts you machine. Nice
Wann jetzt fliegen ???
Es dauert noch eine Weile...
Non funziona…….
helicopter
I would like to make a recommendation. Please consider using a proper deburring tool or countersink instead of a drill bit.
if that was the only problem 😅