I own both of these flashes, three V1's and 1 fj80. I purchased the fj80 and FJ200 to see how I would like them compared to my Godox gear and because I was shooting multiple camera brands at the time. In short I LOVE my V1's compared to fj80 because TTL is much more consistent with the V1, battery is exponentially better and it's more powerful and quality has been way better on the V1. Westcott has excellent service, I know this because my fj80 has been sent in twice. Once because of the battery was dying after about 20 images and 2nd because the hot shoe almost unattached from the unit. I have never had a service issue with any of my Godox flashes. As a result side note I personally use the FJ200 more than a single ad200 now using the Westcott remote. I only use my ad200's in the ad-b2 duel mount with 2 bare bulbs, If I need power for large groups outdoors. My lighting workflow on a wedding day now is about 60% LED, 20% V1 and the then whatever else I need for the rest. The V1 is the best OCF, I have ever used.
This comparison video series was perfect, thank you! Just purchased the fj400 and two fj80 2s with the newer fj-x3m trigger. Happy so far. Main thing that drove me to Westcott was the colour temp consistency between the different models, the plug in option for the fj400 and the apparent battery issues with the godox 400 and 600 pro models.
Hey Rob. First, thanks again for your great content; always much appreciated. Based on your reviews (happy with your recommendations; very useful) I bought 4 x AD200Pros and 4 x V1’s. I’d been using them as separate kits (one kit minimalist and portable; one much less so). All had been good until I mixed the two sets of flashes, which is when the V1’s color cast problem became readily apparent, and then I found your videos on the topic. Bought the Lee correction gel you recommended but that didn’t fully solve my problem as my V1’s run both noticeably cool as well as green as compared to the AD200Pro Round Heads, which (mine anyway) run very close to neutral daylight. All that said… wondering of you have heard anything from Godox re the possibly of their issuing a hardware kit for the V1’s to fix this? For what it’s worth (if they are listening), I don’t care if they charge us for it (though I’m sure some will); just want to have neutral/matching color from my flashes, allowing for easy combined use, and I’d be happy to buy the necessary correction kit (from Godox or a 3rd party) if anyone offered it. Any insight you can share? Thanks in advance!!
Hd2pro is an awesome flash. But the battery drain is relatively fast. It helps if you change tye LCD brightness to lowest setting 1. It can still use magmod accessories.
Thanks for the video. I’ve had flashpoint/godox V1(S) and have been considering the FJ80 IIs and this was helpful. Now I need to look at your video comparing the AD400 to the Westcott equivalent.
Based on round heads, asking for help: Godox, Profoto & Westcott 1. Which one has Bluetooth? 2. How many watts in LED (modeling light)? 3. Which flashhead zooms when zooming lens? 4. Which has TCM? 5. Which has AF assist beam that works on mirrorless/dslr/film? 6. Which one has hv port? 7. Which one has 3.5mm port? 8. Which one can do TTL & HSS at the same time? 9. Does Westcott comes in Sony version? X. Still getting overheating & shutdown?
Great comparison as always! Would you happen to know if the FJ80 magnetic modifier kit (aka "Creative Pack") works on the V1? It looks like the heads are about the same size! I'm interested because the Westcott modifier kit includes a LOT more options and colors than the Godox AK-R1 kit.
So hard to know without stressing it but if I had to pick, I think the FJ80s display would survive impact better than the V1’s display cover / controls. If I get permission to keep the FJ80 I’ll slap it around a bit.
Hello, I just bought the v1 but I don't know if I have to change it with a v1 pro or fj 80 II, what you recommend in terms of quality and result? THANKS in advance :)
The phantom drain, long start time and the possibility of not having enough power on the battery when I actually need it, kind of kills it for the FJ80 for me. The color accuracy is a great plus if you really want that, but I post process everything anyways. V1 for me. I really wanted to like the FJ80, slightly disappointed.
Both have pros and cons. I had a V1 when it first came out and I used it for my wedding reception shoot. It worked well till its recycling time ridiculously got long and I had to switch out to v860ii. But the v860ii showed the same overheat problem and I had to switch out to the 2nd v860ii. I eventually sold the V1. Since then I purchased a FJ80 and 2 FJ200. I use the FJ80 as host to trigger the FJ200s and it works really well. I like the large screen panel on the FJ80. It's just so easy to see the settings and change the settings. But the biggest con about the FJ80 is its battery . It just doesn't last long and the v860ii battery lasts almost all day. This is something Wescott has to fix . After 5 months of use, the FJ80's hot shoe lock started to wiggle and it fell out of my camera. I sent it in to Wescott and they fixed it right . Now its lock is tight and it doesn't wiggle at all.
@@wcsdiaries ,if it's your first flash, then get the V1. Both does the job well but the V1's battery lasts much longer than the FJ 80. When I take guests' photos at a wedding, I will use a V860ii with a diffuser on it.
@@martinsrensen3869 , it's a tough question. I'm still using the v860ii so yes, I would recommend it. If you want to use it for a wedding reception, especially dance scenes, make sure that you keep at least 3 seconds between the shots, otherwise it will overheat, or you will get quite underexposed shots.
If anyone is answering questions on the Westcott FJ80. I just purchased my first strobe updated to ( 1.0.2 ) & it does not have a model light... I saw an older Westcott tutorial & the flash unit they showed had a modeling light.. is that hidden somewhere in the menu? or has that feature been discontinued... Thank you for your reply.... Steven
The FJ80 II has a universal rotary shoe. With the little pins I've had nothing but problems with it and my Canon R5. I just bought a Canon specific Godox V1 and it has a specific shoe with lever I'm hoping it works more consistent.
I picked the FJ80 due to the simple touch screen system, i have some canon flashes and hate the soft button menu systems. I get if you are use to them no problems. I just want a system that is intiaitive. I also rather the big number than a tiny 1/16 stop display, i was also sold on the better white balance, hate correcting green. I also got the trigger so works with my old RT canon flashes. They also cost me a lot more than the godox, due to me being in Australia. When i try them out will get back here for some feedback 👍. The old model is now on special.
It's 2024 and I'm late to the Westcott party. Are there any comparison videos on Westcott vs Godox that aren't 3 to 4 years old. There are several features that I fine attractive on the Westcott line. Has the lack of interest in this brand answering my question for me?? ⭐ ⭐ ⭐ 🌴 📸
"Host and client" is more socially digestible than "master and slave." The Westcott looks promising, however, one may be well advise to wait for model II, while they work out the kinks. Hey Rob, do you remember when ProFoto was about to sue Godox for copying the round head design, will they add Wescott to that list? Any plans of reviewing the new Amaram 60 D.
Rob, on the V1 battery life spec (480 full power recycles), has that changed with the new higher-capacity VB26A battery? The old VB18 for the V860 II (650 full power recycles) was 22 Wh (11V x 2000 mAh); while the V1/V860 III/V850 III's VB26 pack is only 18.72 (7.2v x 2600 mAh). But the new VB26A is 7.2V x 3000 mAh => 21.7 Wh, bringing it much closer to the older battery's capacity. Does the VB26A extend the V1's battery life so it matches the V860 II?
The FJ80 is my preference over the Godox. I own both. However, it takes 4 batteries to make it through an average shoot with the FJ80. Seriously Westcott, you need to work on a firmware update to fix that. Secondly, on three different cameras, I experience a rocking bobbling motion of the light sitting in the hotshoe. Westcott customer service was great. They took it back and sent me another. Two things bothered me though. (1) the unit they replaced my less than 2 week old unit with was scratched and pry marks in the casing from where it was taken apart. (2) the replacement unit still rocks back and forth in the hotshoe. The Godox doesn’t do this. The triggers mounted are tight. The FJ has a flawed mount making it unstable and sometimes unreliable when the camera is turned to a vertical position.
I got a Jinbei version shipped to me a while back to pair with my Orlit/ Jinbei lights. That battery drain was very bad. Ended up buying it and getting the V1. Shocked Westscott didn’t improve it as they did their FJ400 from Jinbei.
Is there an option for a portable power pac. Calumet, nikon fm2 fe2 k1000. want to return to early light or evening shooting. moving the flash to open details in dark areas.
I think you’re confusing where I was talking about off camera mounting (when I said nobody should be mounting via the shoe with the other options available). So that means S bracket, S2 bracket, Phottix has a non-shoe mount speedlight holder, and with the FJ80 you could use a Manfrotto tilt attachment connected to 1/4 20, or a magshoe + hex 1/4 20 connector would work too. But for on camera use, it’s still hot shoe only. But that’s less of a concern as it’s typically off camera lights that go down, and if you’re mounting via shoe that means your flash is probably going flying.
how about customer service?...godox has none!.build quality Westcott wins again!...but for someone who hates Westcott you did mention a few positive things about the fj80!!! you are getting better!
I love your reviews, very clear and concise. Something that I have noticed about these two flashes and no reviewer of the Godox flash seems to have picked up on, or just did not see a need to mention, is the flash element which I believe may be why there is a major colour temperature difference. On the Westcott it appears to have a round bulb and a round zoom element internally, this will give a slightly wider light spread and may be why the max light output is a little lower than the Godox, which appears to have a standard oblong flash tube and zoom element, giving it a brighter output which is diffused by the round outer element and thus causing a brighter but greener light. Your thoughts on this are really welcome. Another consideration is the battery type, the Godox is a Li-ion and the Westcott is a Li-po, big difference.
thanks for the review! but what about tt accuracy especially when the flash is used as a slave unit? V1's ttl is good when it is on camera, but it gets much worse, when it is off camera, and I can't understand why.
In my experience, most people who experience TTL issues off camera are just unaware of how TTL functions in relation to metering. I’ve seen people disappointed that their rim light in TTL is being erratic and I think to myself…your camera literally can’t see enough of the light to get the reading necessary for ttl. TTL can’t identify light position, so your results are purely based on how intensely the light hits relative to your metering mode. A subject could change their head direction and due to incident highlights + spot metering, your results would vary wildly. This gets more erratic the more lights you are using in TTL. TTL is simply not a great solution when seeking consistency in off camera lighting.
As to the wording “Host” “client” the old words caused some trouble, use your imagination. I know one UA-cam channel reviewing flashes, UA-cam restricted his channel because of the old words. That is probably the reason they changed to these words.
Thanks for putting numbers to the V1’s color shift. I had noticed this as well, but hadn’t realized how far off it is from 5600K and +/- 0 G/M. Do you correct for this with gels?
I never have, a - I don’t tend to mind increasing the K because then your ambient looks warmer which typically looks nice. But b - im rarely using a V1 directly, I use 100/200/300’s off camera. If im using a V1 it’s likely bouncing on camera and it’s light properties changing anyways.
My V1 just snapped on me during an event. I just got the fj80 but there is some play on the adapter since I use sony and it doesn't feel safe. I guess I have to use a Sony flash :(
I just got 2 Godox V1. I like them. But there is an annoying issue: it is so easy to accidentally change the mode from TTL to M while shooting by unknowingly pressing the button with the forehead. there should be a way around this. like locking the button or requiring a longer press. I have been using the TT685 and TT350. Never had this issue. The V1 seems to have a better menu layout, but the mode button accidental press is really an annoying issue, that can make you miss some shots. Godox should address this via firmware, if possible.
Yeah it’s overheat protection is rapid but, the alternative is not having such a fast recycle speed. Really I wouldn’t suggest anyone rely on a speedlight for outdoor use, at least not behind diffusion, cause you’ll always be at a high output.
I’ve gone through 3 v1 speedlites before switching to westcott. The build quality is absolute garbage on the v1. The spin dial in the middle stopped clicking to change the power output on two of the units. The entire unite on number 3 snapped off on the hotshoe area when changing the direction of the flash. I shoot canon so yeah, if you’re shooting sony, I would avoid the westcott.
I bought the Godox about 3 years ago and It is a piece of garbage it is not consistent and in my weddings it can fail me on a important candid moment , I also bought the Video Light (stick one) mmmm not good neither, it does not work if it is not connected to the power, my experience with godox it is not good.
IF ITS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH GODOX OR SOME OTHER POPULAR BRANDS, THEN THERE IS LITTLE TO NO NEED TO SWITCH. BUT IF BETTER AND COMPATIBLE, PEOPLE WOULD SLOWLY TRANSITION. ops, sorry for caps.
Even Godox is not compatible to "other popular brands". But it´s best to stick to one if it has everything you need. Even "the best" like Broncolor is not compatible to any other popular brand like Profoto or Godox haha.
@@sksnezinka I know that, yet they made it affordable enough for many to now use Godox, and you would need something extraordinary for people to jump to or slowly transition. Its not likely possible to even do it. I was expressing how drastic it would need to be to switch for current users.
When I saw the "Host" and "Client" on @3:00. I was like... oh man, here we go again. In real estate. We can't even say Master bedroom anymore, because of... you know.... instead of Master, we call it Primary Bedroom.
If we’re going to change terminology - and I think we should - then “server” would be more descriptive than host, and there’s less confusion as to who’s driving. In the computer world, a host can be either a client or server.
I have the V1 and I'm disappointed at the wireless controller, especially as it is expensive. I prefer to use the V1 on camera as it isn't as limited. When shooting wireless it seems to go into power save and it doesn't fire on the first shot. The controls also look the same but aren't, which can be confusing and fiddly. You also can't access all the things such as the power levels of the modelling light. When the flash is on camera you press the shutter and hear it power up briefly before the shot takes. This might not sound too bad but when using an intervalometer, it becomes a real problem when the remote always misses the first image. PS: I tried freezing action with full power when shooting rain, and the results showed the rain looking like it was traveling upwards, because of the trail from the flash duration. So yeah, no good at freezing action outside in daylight.
I have a lot of responses. Expensive? It’s less than half the price of 1st party equivalents with more features. It’s 1/4 the price of Profoto while being equal in specs and features, even better in some. The only way to call the V1 expensive is if you compare it to a less-featured/less capable product, of which Godox almost always has a more cost-effective equivalent. Your sleep issue is non-typical and indicates one of four issues. 1) your flash isn’t seated properly. 2) your V1 does not match the camera brand. 3) you have a firmware issue. 4) your contacts are dirty. Lastly, there isn’t an IGBT flash on the market that would freeze rain at full power. That’s the worst power to choose, because it would always be the longest flash duration. So I don’t think it’s fair to characterize that as disappointment when it’s purely user error. I don’t think anyone should have the expectation that a speedlight would be capable of freezing rain in daylight conditions.
@@robhallphoto I was talking about the wireless part being expensive. It's £60 and is a poor quality reflection of the flash with lots of short comings. Another thing I didn't mention before about the flash is it's inconsistent colour. When burst shooting, with white balance set to manual, the colour cast changes between shots. It shifts between magenta and green between shots. This makes the flash useless for an intervalometer set up. I've had cheaper Yongnuo flashes that don't do this, they might dim between shots because of the recycle time, but changing colour from shot to shot? What is that about? The sleep issue isn't with the flash, it's with the wireless controller not communicating properly. When the flash is mounted to the camera, the shutter wakes the flash up before taking the shot. When the wireless is mounted, it takes the shot regardless of what the flash is doing. I suspect it doesn't relay to the camera that the flash is in standby and needs to wake up first. This is a limitation rather than a faulty unit. I constantly find that the flash works better on camera. I am impressed with the ETTL and rear curtain / hss options, as well as the magnet accessory kit. And yes, Profoto is the cream of expensive. It's way more affordable than that brand, granted. I agree that full power flash in daylight is asking too much, but there are some lights that are better than others. I was agreeing with your video on the duration, having tested it in real life. It isn't user error, it's experimentation. You seem to be angry for no good reason.
![How important is a speedlight's interface? [Westcott FJ80 SE Godox V1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/G_9EykKgzGg/mqdefault.jpg)
I would love to see an updated video that wraps up the whole ecosystem as it sits in 2023.
I own both of these flashes, three V1's and 1 fj80. I purchased the fj80 and FJ200 to see how I would like them compared to my Godox gear and because I was shooting multiple camera brands at the time.
In short I LOVE my V1's compared to fj80 because TTL is much more consistent with the V1, battery is exponentially better and it's more powerful and quality has been way better on the V1. Westcott has excellent service, I know this because my fj80 has been sent in twice. Once because of the battery was dying after about 20 images and 2nd because the hot shoe almost unattached from the unit. I have never had a service issue with any of my Godox flashes. As a result side note I personally use the FJ200 more than a single ad200 now using the Westcott remote. I only use my ad200's in the ad-b2 duel mount with 2 bare bulbs, If I need power for large groups outdoors.
My lighting workflow on a wedding day now is about 60% LED, 20% V1 and the then whatever else I need for the rest.
The V1 is the best OCF, I have ever used.
May I ask which led you are using?
@@paulgero light and motion Reflex and CLX10 and Litra LitraStudio and Pro. Two of each
Is the accessory compatible between these two?
Thats ODD, I have the opposite experience. I get more out of the MJ200 compared to Godox.
At 11:52 you said the price difference is only $30. Isn't the FJ80 $70 more? Considering the V1 is $259 and the FJ80 is $329.
Maybe I looked during holidays so it was marked down, but it was $299 when I last checked.
This comparison video series was perfect, thank you! Just purchased the fj400 and two fj80 2s with the newer fj-x3m trigger. Happy so far. Main thing that drove me to Westcott was the colour temp consistency between the different models, the plug in option for the fj400 and the apparent battery issues with the godox 400 and 600 pro models.
Fantastic! Just received my V1. I have very little experience with on-camera flashes. Looking forward to trying it out at an event.
Thanks for sharing. I have had the V1 for a few years, I have been trying a few others lights, but I have always returned to the V1
Westcot looks interesting. But i cant imagine leaving godox. I shoot professionally and godox has really worked hard to bring up their quality
10:01 - my favorite part.🤣
Eli Infante going into crying mode in... 3...2...1.... ;)
Hey Rob.
First, thanks again for your great content; always much appreciated.
Based on your reviews (happy with your recommendations; very useful) I bought 4 x AD200Pros and 4 x V1’s. I’d been using them as separate kits (one kit minimalist and portable; one much less so). All had been good until I mixed the two sets of flashes, which is when the V1’s color cast problem became readily apparent, and then I found your videos on the topic.
Bought the Lee correction gel you recommended but that didn’t fully solve my problem as my V1’s run both noticeably cool as well as green as compared to the AD200Pro Round Heads, which (mine anyway) run very close to neutral daylight.
All that said… wondering of you have heard anything from Godox re the possibly of their issuing a hardware kit for the V1’s to fix this?
For what it’s worth (if they are listening), I don’t care if they charge us for it (though I’m sure some will); just want to have neutral/matching color from my flashes, allowing for easy combined use, and I’d be happy to buy the necessary correction kit (from Godox or a 3rd party) if anyone offered it.
Any insight you can share?
Thanks in advance!!
I may be wrong, but as far as I know, the first brand that implemented large color touch display on a flash was Metz: 64AF-1 for example.
Hd2pro is an awesome flash. But the battery drain is relatively fast. It helps if you change tye LCD brightness to lowest setting 1. It can still use magmod accessories.
Thanks for the video. I’ve had flashpoint/godox V1(S) and have been considering the FJ80 IIs and this was helpful. Now I need to look at your video comparing the AD400 to the Westcott equivalent.
Based on round heads, asking for help: Godox, Profoto & Westcott
1. Which one has Bluetooth?
2. How many watts in LED (modeling light)?
3. Which flashhead zooms when zooming lens?
4. Which has TCM?
5. Which has AF assist beam that works on mirrorless/dslr/film?
6. Which one has hv port?
7. Which one has 3.5mm port?
8. Which one can do TTL & HSS at the same time?
9. Does Westcott comes in Sony version?
X. Still getting overheating & shutdown?
Great comparison as always! Would you happen to know if the FJ80 magnetic modifier kit (aka "Creative Pack") works on the V1? It looks like the heads are about the same size! I'm interested because the Westcott modifier kit includes a LOT more options and colors than the Godox AK-R1 kit.
How well would that touch screen handle a drop or professional use over time?
So hard to know without stressing it but if I had to pick, I think the FJ80s display would survive impact better than the V1’s display cover / controls.
If I get permission to keep the FJ80 I’ll slap it around a bit.
Is that a huge LED modeling lamp inside the Westcott or it’s just zoomed in so much? 😳
Hi, when is the WESTCOTT FJ-X2M TRIGGER review coming out? Thanks.
Hello, I just bought the v1 but I don't know if I have to change it with a v1 pro or fj 80 II, what you recommend in terms of quality and result?
THANKS in advance :)
The phantom drain, long start time and the possibility of not having enough power on the battery when I actually need it, kind of kills it for the FJ80 for me. The color accuracy is a great plus if you really want that, but I post process everything anyways. V1 for me. I really wanted to like the FJ80, slightly disappointed.
Both have pros and cons. I had a V1 when it first came out and I used it for my wedding reception shoot. It worked well till its recycling time ridiculously got long and I had to switch out to v860ii. But the v860ii showed the same overheat problem and I had to switch out to the 2nd v860ii.
I eventually sold the V1. Since then I purchased a FJ80 and 2 FJ200. I use the FJ80 as host to trigger the FJ200s and it works really well.
I like the large screen panel on the FJ80. It's just so easy to see the settings and change the settings.
But the biggest con about the FJ80 is its battery . It just doesn't last long and the v860ii battery lasts almost all day. This is something Wescott has to fix . After 5 months of use, the FJ80's hot shoe lock started to wiggle and it fell out of my camera. I sent it in to Wescott and they fixed it right . Now its lock is tight and it doesn't wiggle at all.
which would you choose between the v1 and fj80? I need my first flash for weddings
@@wcsdiaries ,if it's your first flash, then get the V1. Both does the job well but the V1's battery lasts much longer than the FJ 80.
When I take guests' photos at a wedding, I will use a V860ii with a diffuser on it.
@@hidetoshitakahashi3881 would you advice the v860ii over the v1?
@@martinsrensen3869 , it's a tough question. I'm still using the v860ii so yes, I would recommend it. If you want to use it for a wedding reception, especially dance scenes, make sure that you keep at least 3 seconds between the shots, otherwise it will overheat, or you will get quite underexposed shots.
@@hidetoshitakahashi3881 yeah for weddings now I use the tt685
I’ve had the Sony adapter and it broke on me but I do love the fact that I can use it with my Sony and my Olympus
Great job, Rob!
If anyone is answering questions on the Westcott FJ80. I just purchased my first strobe updated to ( 1.0.2 ) & it does not have a model light... I saw an older Westcott tutorial & the flash unit they showed had a modeling light.. is that hidden somewhere in the menu? or has that feature been discontinued... Thank you for your reply.... Steven
There is a button on the screen that has a lightbulb press it twice to get the modeling light to work
@@pianofinger thank you - Foud the lightbulb... !!!
@@speliotis you are welcome
there is a decrease stop option from what I was told. I can check my FJ80s after work
OMG!!!! Jinbei is EXACTLY THE WESTCOT FJ SERIES!!! WTF?
The FJ80 II has a universal rotary shoe. With the little pins I've had nothing but problems with it and my Canon R5. I just bought a Canon specific Godox V1 and it has a specific shoe with lever I'm hoping it works more consistent.
Godox v1 filters (Godox AK-R1) can be used on Westcott FJ80 ?
Got V1, Have used it many times on portrait shoots, Love IT
The westcott, can it be used as a master to godox lineup?
How does that touchscreen monstrosity work in sunlight (when you might be using it - as a master - to make light more flattering)?
The Home Screen is rough in sunlight, but any of the light control screens are ok in bright conditions.
I picked the FJ80 due to the simple touch screen system, i have some canon flashes and hate the soft button menu systems. I get if you are use to them no problems. I just want a system that is intiaitive. I also rather the big number than a tiny 1/16 stop display, i was also sold on the better white balance, hate correcting green. I also got the trigger so works with my old RT canon flashes. They also cost me a lot more than the godox, due to me being in Australia. When i try them out will get back here for some feedback
👍. The old model is now on special.
It's 2024 and I'm late to the Westcott party.
Are there any comparison videos on Westcott vs Godox that aren't 3 to 4 years old.
There are several features that I fine attractive on the Westcott line.
Has the lack of interest in this brand answering my question for me??
⭐ ⭐ ⭐ 🌴 📸
"Host and client" is more socially digestible than "master and slave." The Westcott looks promising, however, one may be well advise to wait for model II, while they work out the kinks. Hey Rob, do you remember when ProFoto was about to sue Godox for copying the round head design, will they add Wescott to that list? Any plans of reviewing the new Amaram 60 D.
Rob, on the V1 battery life spec (480 full power recycles), has that changed with the new higher-capacity VB26A battery? The old VB18 for the V860 II (650 full power recycles) was 22 Wh (11V x 2000 mAh); while the V1/V860 III/V850 III's VB26 pack is only 18.72 (7.2v x 2600 mAh). But the new VB26A is 7.2V x 3000 mAh => 21.7 Wh, bringing it much closer to the older battery's capacity. Does the VB26A extend the V1's battery life so it matches the V860 II?
Don't know, haven't used it.
Is there news a new Godox V1?
The FJ80 is my preference over the Godox. I own both. However, it takes 4 batteries to make it through an average shoot with the FJ80. Seriously Westcott, you need to work on a firmware update to fix that. Secondly, on three different cameras, I experience a rocking bobbling motion of the light sitting in the hotshoe. Westcott customer service was great. They took it back and sent me another. Two things bothered me though. (1) the unit they replaced my less than 2 week old unit with was scratched and pry marks in the casing from where it was taken apart. (2) the replacement unit still rocks back and forth in the hotshoe. The Godox doesn’t do this. The triggers mounted are tight. The FJ has a flawed mount making it unstable and sometimes unreliable when the camera is turned to a vertical position.
Thanks for sharing your experience with both units! 4 batteries though...oof.
I got a Jinbei version shipped to me a while back to pair with my Orlit/ Jinbei lights. That battery drain was very bad. Ended up buying it and getting the V1. Shocked Westscott didn’t improve it as they did their FJ400 from Jinbei.
I’m not sure Westcott really “improves” anything. It seems The FJ400 is the Jinbei HD400 Pro, not an adjusted/upgraded version of the original HD400.
Is there an option for a portable power pac. Calumet, nikon fm2 fe2 k1000. want to return to early light or evening shooting. moving the flash to open details in dark areas.
Fantastic presentation thank you for putting this together !
Great video Rob, can you review /compare the new V860 III
Thanks. Good vid. Staying with Godox 🙂
how do the modeling lights compare in output?
Hi Rob, what are the other options for mounting a speedlight to a camera of which you speak?
I think you’re confusing where I was talking about off camera mounting (when I said nobody should be mounting via the shoe with the other options available). So that means S bracket, S2 bracket, Phottix has a non-shoe mount speedlight holder, and with the FJ80 you could use a Manfrotto tilt attachment connected to 1/4 20, or a magshoe + hex 1/4 20 connector would work too.
But for on camera use, it’s still hot shoe only. But that’s less of a concern as it’s typically off camera lights that go down, and if you’re mounting via shoe that means your flash is probably going flying.
@@robhallphoto I see, thanks.
Great Video!
how about customer service?...godox has none!.build quality Westcott wins again!...but for someone who hates Westcott you did mention a few positive things about the fj80!!! you are getting better!
I love your reviews, very clear and concise. Something that I have noticed about these two flashes and no reviewer of the Godox flash seems to have picked up on, or just did not see a need to mention, is the flash element which I believe may be why there is a major colour temperature difference. On the Westcott it appears to have a round bulb and a round zoom element internally, this will give a slightly wider light spread and may be why the max light output is a little lower than the Godox, which appears to have a standard oblong flash tube and zoom element, giving it a brighter output which is diffused by the round outer element and thus causing a brighter but greener light. Your thoughts on this are really welcome. Another consideration is the battery type, the Godox is a Li-ion and the Westcott is a Li-po, big difference.
Can you compare the Profoto A1 with all of these. Thanks.
I did V1 vs A1 back when it came out. You can cross reference 👨🔬
thanks for the review!
but what about tt accuracy especially when the flash is used as a slave unit?
V1's ttl is good when it is on camera, but it gets much worse, when it is off camera, and I can't understand why.
In my experience, most people who experience TTL issues off camera are just unaware of how TTL functions in relation to metering. I’ve seen people disappointed that their rim light in TTL is being erratic and I think to myself…your camera literally can’t see enough of the light to get the reading necessary for ttl.
TTL can’t identify light position, so your results are purely based on how intensely the light hits relative to your metering mode. A subject could change their head direction and due to incident highlights + spot metering, your results would vary wildly. This gets more erratic the more lights you are using in TTL.
TTL is simply not a great solution when seeking consistency in off camera lighting.
I was expecting u to do this .. Thanks Rob 😊
As to the wording “Host” “client” the old words caused some trouble, use your imagination. I know one UA-cam channel reviewing flashes, UA-cam restricted his channel because of the old words. That is probably the reason they changed to these words.
Thanks for putting numbers to the V1’s color shift. I had noticed this as well, but hadn’t realized how far off it is from 5600K and +/- 0 G/M. Do you correct for this with gels?
I never have, a - I don’t tend to mind increasing the K because then your ambient looks warmer which typically looks nice. But b - im rarely using a V1 directly, I use 100/200/300’s off camera. If im using a V1 it’s likely bouncing on camera and it’s light properties changing anyways.
The V1 pro seems to be a better option.
Westcott rules
I wish the xpro trigger has the same functions as the v1. maybe soon Godox?
Yeees!! Ive been wanting a video like this!, thanks! :D
My V1 just snapped on me during an event. I just got the fj80 but there is some play on the adapter since I use sony and it doesn't feel safe. I guess I have to use a Sony flash :(
I just got 2 Godox V1. I like them. But there is an annoying issue: it is so easy to accidentally change the mode from TTL to M while shooting by unknowingly pressing the button with the forehead. there should be a way around this. like locking the button or requiring a longer press. I have been using the TT685 and TT350. Never had this issue. The V1 seems to have a better menu layout, but the mode button accidental press is really an annoying issue, that can make you miss some shots. Godox should address this via firmware, if possible.
There is a lock function, you hold the menu button for 3 seconds. That's why there's a padlock icon next to it.
Westcott FJ80 could be usted with shutter godox or only with westcott's shutters????
No, the Westcott transmitter will not trigger Godox.
The only thing I dislike about my V1 is when I get to shoot fashion portraits during daylight in summer it gets heated really easy even in the shadows
Yeah it’s overheat protection is rapid but, the alternative is not having such a fast recycle speed. Really I wouldn’t suggest anyone rely on a speedlight for outdoor use, at least not behind diffusion, cause you’ll always be at a high output.
Godox has way too many misfires so I stopped using them.
I’ve gone through 3 v1 speedlites before switching to westcott. The build quality is absolute garbage on the v1. The spin dial in the middle stopped clicking to change the power output on two of the units. The entire unite on number 3 snapped off on the hotshoe area when changing the direction of the flash. I shoot canon so yeah, if you’re shooting sony, I would avoid the westcott.
FJ802 is way better flash than godox
I bought the Godox about 3 years ago and It is a piece of garbage it is not consistent and in my weddings it can fail me on a important candid moment , I also bought the Video Light (stick one) mmmm not good neither, it does not work if it is not connected to the power, my experience with godox it is not good.
IF ITS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH GODOX OR SOME OTHER POPULAR BRANDS, THEN THERE IS LITTLE TO NO NEED TO SWITCH. BUT IF BETTER AND COMPATIBLE, PEOPLE WOULD SLOWLY TRANSITION. ops, sorry for caps.
Even Godox is not compatible to "other popular brands". But it´s best to stick to one if it has everything you need. Even "the best" like Broncolor is not compatible to any other popular brand like Profoto or Godox haha.
@@sksnezinka I know that, yet they made it affordable enough for many to now use Godox, and you would need something extraordinary for people to jump to or slowly transition. Its not likely possible to even do it. I was expressing how drastic it would need to be to switch for current users.
Biased !!! You’re a godex guy … the flash display doesn’t that long to change , or to turn on .. Westcott wins
Host and client is more woke than master and slave. It’s a great time to be alive. Lol
More woke, but there was no need to introduce new terms when commander and receiver, or TX / RX are already widely used.
@@robhallphoto my thoughts exactly. Great video. Thank you!
When I saw the "Host" and "Client" on @3:00. I was like... oh man, here we go again. In real estate. We can't even say Master bedroom anymore, because of... you know.... instead of Master, we call it Primary Bedroom.
If we’re going to change terminology - and I think we should - then “server” would be more descriptive than host, and there’s less confusion as to who’s driving. In the computer world, a host can be either a client or server.
I have the V1 and I'm disappointed at the wireless controller, especially as it is expensive. I prefer to use the V1 on camera as it isn't as limited. When shooting wireless it seems to go into power save and it doesn't fire on the first shot. The controls also look the same but aren't, which can be confusing and fiddly. You also can't access all the things such as the power levels of the modelling light. When the flash is on camera you press the shutter and hear it power up briefly before the shot takes. This might not sound too bad but when using an intervalometer, it becomes a real problem when the remote always misses the first image.
PS: I tried freezing action with full power when shooting rain, and the results showed the rain looking like it was traveling upwards, because of the trail from the flash duration. So yeah, no good at freezing action outside in daylight.
I have a lot of responses.
Expensive? It’s less than half the price of 1st party equivalents with more features. It’s 1/4 the price of Profoto while being equal in specs and features, even better in some. The only way to call the V1 expensive is if you compare it to a less-featured/less capable product, of which Godox almost always has a more cost-effective equivalent.
Your sleep issue is non-typical and indicates one of four issues. 1) your flash isn’t seated properly. 2) your V1 does not match the camera brand. 3) you have a firmware issue. 4) your contacts are dirty.
Lastly, there isn’t an IGBT flash on the market that would freeze rain at full power. That’s the worst power to choose, because it would always be the longest flash duration. So I don’t think it’s fair to characterize that as disappointment when it’s purely user error. I don’t think anyone should have the expectation that a speedlight would be capable of freezing rain in daylight conditions.
@@robhallphoto I was talking about the wireless part being expensive. It's £60 and is a poor quality reflection of the flash with lots of short comings. Another thing I didn't mention before about the flash is it's inconsistent colour. When burst shooting, with white balance set to manual, the colour cast changes between shots. It shifts between magenta and green between shots. This makes the flash useless for an intervalometer set up. I've had cheaper Yongnuo flashes that don't do this, they might dim between shots because of the recycle time, but changing colour from shot to shot? What is that about?
The sleep issue isn't with the flash, it's with the wireless controller not communicating properly. When the flash is mounted to the camera, the shutter wakes the flash up before taking the shot. When the wireless is mounted, it takes the shot regardless of what the flash is doing. I suspect it doesn't relay to the camera that the flash is in standby and needs to wake up first. This is a limitation rather than a faulty unit. I constantly find that the flash works better on camera. I am impressed with the ETTL and rear curtain / hss options, as well as the magnet accessory kit.
And yes, Profoto is the cream of expensive. It's way more affordable than that brand, granted.
I agree that full power flash in daylight is asking too much, but there are some lights that are better than others. I was agreeing with your video on the duration, having tested it in real life. It isn't user error, it's experimentation. You seem to be angry for no good reason.
You just need a red tattoo over your head and across the left eye.
Host and Cleint are politically correct terms.. Confusing but PC. No thanks, Wescott. Thanks for the review!!!
mater and slave term bug some folks you will master bedroom and things like that are going away...
v1 seems square flash in raound head (:
yet still produces a more even falloff than any barebulb inside a reflector.