Wow I wish I saw this days ago. I’ve been trying to remove the guts like all the others stated to do, watching old videos for hours, swearing, slamming wrenches, scuffing fingers, dealing with mosquitoes and finally giving up, ready to call the scrap yard, decided to search one last time with different wording and thank god your video popped up, wow what a relief and how quick it was completed. Thank you much
It’s a test of patience for sure, I’m glad to hear you got it done! What query were you searching first that didn’t lead to my video? I can add tags to help guide others.
Fantastic video! Thank you Wayne. I have to do this job later today and this gives me so much preparation info. Other videos I watched skipped over the harness removal portion, which I needed since I bought a service kit. Thanks for taking the time to list bolt sizes and torque specs.
No problem! That was the main reason I made a video about it, there’s not many good ones out there! The harness removal was definitely the most time consuming part, it was a learning process. Rule of thumb: start at the largest section and just work your way out, branch by branch, until you reach the end. This made it a no-brainer for removal and reinstallation. The only thing I’ll say to take special note of is how it routes, whether above/below something, especially on the driver’s side. Take a few reference photos and it’ll be a piece of cake.
Ok. I will be sure to do that 👍 this kit comes with a lock & O/D solenoid on a bracket. Did you ever have to remove that? If so was it very difficult? thanks again.
Not that I can recall? That sounds very strange to be included, the Prius has an E-CVT, thus no O/D solenoid anywhere on the vehicle. I’m also not sure what lock would be included, maybe a lock pin for the clock spring? If that’s the case, I used a zip tie to lock it in place.
Ah, I must of looked at the wrong thumbnail this morning because I swear you had commented on my Prius Evaporator video! (UA-cam Studio has a unique portal for replying to comments). Now I’m on the same page lol. Every solenoid/harness I’ve ever seen were sold together, as you’ve found. You can replace the solenoids if you wish, or they can be disconnected separately as shown in the video. If you’re in there you might as well, as some say; but also if it ain’t broke don’t fix it so 🤷♂️
Thanks so much! Just replaced the solenoid pack in my 98 Jeep (which fixed a harsh 1/2 and hesitant 2/3 shifts) took just two hours. Last time I did this job on my previous Jeep, removing the whole valve body, it was all day!! I used a simple kitchen cabinet right angle bracket with a slot on the long side (used one of the valve body retaining bolts with a washer under it’s head to clamp the bracket) to keep the spring in place while I re fitted the 3/4 housing..
Thanks for this! I just watched a cascade transmission video that said the valve body must be removed which was a lot more work. I have the pan and governor pressure assembly off right now but stopped because I didnt feel like dealing with the valve body yet lol
Glad it helped! Exactly why I posted the video, conflicting information. To be fair, it states to remove the valve body in the service manual. I just don’t see a point to it though. That’s a lot of extra mess and labor!
I will add that the reason you need to push down on the connector on the outside of the transmission, is that otherwise you'll end up pushing the plug of the wiring harness through to the other side and apparently can't get it to come back through without just cutting the wires off!
So that little valve with the spring in it that is not supposed to come out… came out for me and I now have no way of getting it back in? Thoughts? This transmission is still on the car and now completely unusable
Do you happen to know what it takes to remove the pawl that actuates the neutral safety switch? and if it can be replaced with just removing pan vs tearing apart trans?
Question i got a shift solenoi low voltage circuit code.. tranmission basically would buck badly at speed 60-70mph.. i replaced the gov pressure solenoid and the transducer.. and the 3-4 spring which was broken... 7.5 quarts new fluid and filter. Reset the codes. And it shifts great. But then 3 days later it started its bucking issues again. And its random.. one day itll do it once or twice.. the next 4 days it wont. Same exact bucking when it threw the governor pressure solenoid low voltage code. Its a 42re 98 grand cherokee. Has 398k miles original trans. Ive always changed the fluid every 30k miles. And its never been used for towing other than hauling heavy loads in the vehicle sometimes. I realize 400k is a ton of miles for a 42re or any auto. But this issue doesnt feel mechanical its electrical. It threw this code only once. And it isnt throwing the code again. Could this be the wire harness itself ? That you removed in the tranmission on the video ? Or possibly the pcm ? What do you think
I would suspect something electrical as well. The circuit is pretty simple, but I’d still start off with getting a wiring diagram. First suspect areas would be the ASD relay and where it fits into the fuse panel, then the transmission case connector. If those two aren’t the problem, you’ll probably need to start tracing/wiggling wires until you find the bad spot. 400k miles is a lot, but it all depends on how it was driven and maintained. By the sounds of it, you got a good one 👍
I have an 02 cummins with the 47re. i bought a 47re out of a 99 cummins to buy time while i get mine built. Will the harness out of my 02 go in the 99? as of now i have no OD, found your video while researching
Careful wiggling while pushing by hand or using a soft hammer to lightly tap should pop it out. If not, as if someone put a sealer or something on it, you might need to be more aggressive. It is plastic though, so be careful. Putting a block against the connector before hitting it with the hammer will give you the best odds.
If your torque converter is not slipping, then replacing the solenoid and/or harness might fix the problem. Most commonly that code is set for a worn and slipping torque converter, and if that’s true, replacing solenoids will not change anything. However, if you want to know for sure, more information/diagnosis is needed.
@@fixaday okay yeah nothing wrong with the drivability. It’s struggling to start in the cold morning and gets the p1740 code after it fires. Kind of stumped.
@@Blchamr988 Wow, that's definitely a unique scenario. Need to find out what specific conditions set that code. I'm just speculating, but I know the PCM monitors voltage on the ground side of the solenoid. If it's inconsistent, not present, or too high (somehow), I could see it setting that code. I know for sure it will set a code (can't remember which one) and put the transmission in limp mode if the connection to the solenoid is lost or interrupted (aftermarket lock-up switches, for example).
@@Blchamr988 I will add though, if it's struggling to start, the trouble starting could have a ripple effect, causing problems elsewhere, voltage drop and spikes come to mind. I would investigate the starting problem first since drivability is fine otherwise, even with the code present.
@@fixaday I have the 46re and the connecter has fluid in it I don't have any codes but my transmission has started not shifting into 3rd gear and the 1-2 shift is delayed but sometimes it does shift through the gears correctly could the fluid in connecter cause this problem???
Wow I wish I saw this days ago. I’ve been trying to remove the guts like all the others stated to do, watching old videos for hours, swearing, slamming wrenches, scuffing fingers, dealing with mosquitoes and finally giving up, ready to call the scrap yard, decided to search one last time with different wording and thank god your video popped up, wow what a relief and how quick it was completed. Thank you much
It’s a test of patience for sure, I’m glad to hear you got it done!
What query were you searching first that didn’t lead to my video? I can add tags to help guide others.
You’re still saving lives. Thanks a million!
Fantastic video! Thank you Wayne. I have to do this job later today and this gives me so much preparation info. Other videos I watched skipped over the harness removal portion, which I needed since I bought a service kit. Thanks for taking the time to list bolt sizes and torque specs.
No problem! That was the main reason I made a video about it, there’s not many good ones out there! The harness removal was definitely the most time consuming part, it was a learning process. Rule of thumb: start at the largest section and just work your way out, branch by branch, until you reach the end. This made it a no-brainer for removal and reinstallation. The only thing I’ll say to take special note of is how it routes, whether above/below something, especially on the driver’s side. Take a few reference photos and it’ll be a piece of cake.
Ok. I will be sure to do that 👍 this kit comes with a lock & O/D solenoid on a bracket. Did you ever have to remove that? If so was it very difficult? thanks again.
Not that I can recall? That sounds very strange to be included, the Prius has an E-CVT, thus no O/D solenoid anywhere on the vehicle. I’m also not sure what lock would be included, maybe a lock pin for the clock spring? If that’s the case, I used a zip tie to lock it in place.
Yeah most the kits I found online had it at least the ones from cascade transmission did. Thanks again👍
Ah, I must of looked at the wrong thumbnail this morning because I swear you had commented on my Prius Evaporator video! (UA-cam Studio has a unique portal for replying to comments). Now I’m on the same page lol.
Every solenoid/harness I’ve ever seen were sold together, as you’ve found. You can replace the solenoids if you wish, or they can be disconnected separately as shown in the video. If you’re in there you might as well, as some say; but also if it ain’t broke don’t fix it so 🤷♂️
Thanks so much! Just replaced the solenoid pack in my 98 Jeep (which fixed a harsh 1/2 and hesitant 2/3 shifts) took just two hours. Last time I did this job on my previous Jeep, removing the whole valve body, it was all day!! I used a simple kitchen cabinet right angle bracket with a slot on the long side (used one of the valve body retaining bolts with a washer under it’s head to clamp the bracket) to keep the spring in place while I re fitted the 3/4 housing..
It’s great to hear this was helpful, and I’m glad it went well!
just saved me a bunch of headache & time pulling the vb, thanks for posting!
Thanks for this! I just watched a cascade transmission video that said the valve body must be removed which was a lot more work. I have the pan and governor pressure assembly off right now but stopped because I didnt feel like dealing with the valve body yet lol
Glad it helped! Exactly why I posted the video, conflicting information. To be fair, it states to remove the valve body in the service manual. I just don’t see a point to it though. That’s a lot of extra mess and labor!
Awesome. Very easy after watching you
I will add that the reason you need to push down on the connector on the outside of the transmission, is that otherwise you'll end up pushing the plug of the wiring harness through to the other side and apparently can't get it to come back through without just cutting the wires off!
Thank you
So that little valve with the spring in it that is not supposed to come out… came out for me and I now have no way of getting it back in? Thoughts? This transmission is still on the car and now completely unusable
Do you happen to know what it takes to remove the pawl that actuates the neutral safety switch? and if it can be replaced with just removing pan vs tearing apart trans?
HI I am getting P0743 code will replacing a Solenoid Service & Upgrade Kit Set fix the problem? Thanks in advance and thanks for the great video.
Possibly. There could also be a wiring issue to the transmission if the solenoid replacement doesn’t resolve it.
Question i got a shift solenoi low voltage circuit code.. tranmission basically would buck badly at speed 60-70mph.. i replaced the gov pressure solenoid and the transducer.. and the 3-4 spring which was broken... 7.5 quarts new fluid and filter. Reset the codes. And it shifts great.
But then 3 days later it started its bucking issues again. And its random.. one day itll do it once or twice.. the next 4 days it wont. Same exact bucking when it threw the governor pressure solenoid low voltage code. Its a 42re 98 grand cherokee. Has 398k miles original trans.
Ive always changed the fluid every 30k miles. And its never been used for towing other than hauling heavy loads in the vehicle sometimes.
I realize 400k is a ton of miles for a 42re or any auto. But this issue doesnt feel mechanical its electrical. It threw this code only once. And it isnt throwing the code again.
Could this be the wire harness itself ? That you removed in the tranmission on the video ? Or possibly the pcm ?
What do you think
I would suspect something electrical as well. The circuit is pretty simple, but I’d still start off with getting a wiring diagram. First suspect areas would be the ASD relay and where it fits into the fuse panel, then the transmission case connector. If those two aren’t the problem, you’ll probably need to start tracing/wiggling wires until you find the bad spot.
400k miles is a lot, but it all depends on how it was driven and maintained. By the sounds of it, you got a good one 👍
Como cambiar retén de la selectora de cambio
I have an 02 cummins with the 47re. i bought a 47re out of a 99 cummins to buy time while i get mine built. Will the harness out of my 02 go in the 99? as of now i have no OD, found your video while researching
Yes, it will. You will also need to swap the pressure transducer.
I’m having trouble getting the part where you have to push the wiring on the outside of the trans can someone help
Careful wiggling while pushing by hand or using a soft hammer to lightly tap should pop it out. If not, as if someone put a sealer or something on it, you might need to be more aggressive. It is plastic though, so be careful. Putting a block against the connector before hitting it with the hammer will give you the best odds.
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I have a P1740 code would this help?
If your torque converter is not slipping, then replacing the solenoid and/or harness might fix the problem. Most commonly that code is set for a worn and slipping torque converter, and if that’s true, replacing solenoids will not change anything. However, if you want to know for sure, more information/diagnosis is needed.
@@fixaday okay yeah nothing wrong with the drivability. It’s struggling to start in the cold morning and gets the p1740 code after it fires. Kind of stumped.
@@Blchamr988 Wow, that's definitely a unique scenario. Need to find out what specific conditions set that code. I'm just speculating, but I know the PCM monitors voltage on the ground side of the solenoid. If it's inconsistent, not present, or too high (somehow), I could see it setting that code. I know for sure it will set a code (can't remember which one) and put the transmission in limp mode if the connection to the solenoid is lost or interrupted (aftermarket lock-up switches, for example).
@@Blchamr988 I will add though, if it's struggling to start, the trouble starting could have a ripple effect, causing problems elsewhere, voltage drop and spikes come to mind. I would investigate the starting problem first since drivability is fine otherwise, even with the code present.
@@fixaday I have the 46re and the connecter has fluid in it I don't have any codes but my transmission has started not shifting into 3rd gear and the 1-2 shift is delayed but sometimes it does shift through the gears correctly could the fluid in connecter cause this problem???