“Bajillion!!!”😂😂😂 Metro store brand this morning. I always lay track with water soluble white glue in case I have to take it up again. Thanks for sharing, Jimmy.🇨🇦
I've seen time and time again where people rip out their layouts because their frustrations with track not performing up to expectations. I am personally against using glue or caulk but on foam, you probably don't have any other choice. I use track nails vs glue so I can test as I go and I don't have to wait for glue/caulk to dry. I nail my roadbed to the plywood first with track nails, then I nail my track on top. If something doesn't act right, I use wire cutters and gently pop the nail out, make my slight adjustment, then hammer the nail back in. When it's all good and you have 0 issues, then you can ballast and glue that to your track and then that glue will also glue the cork to the plywood. That's been my tried and true method for about 15 years. - Jason
the nice thing about the latex caulk is that it holds well, and it can be pulled up easily. Then, when you glue your ballast, you've got something more sturdy or substantial.
@@andrewlaverghetta715 but like I mentioned, the downside to using caulk is that if you have a newer person in the hobby with not a lot of experience; it is when they make track adjustments and you have to wait for the glue to cure before you can really test to see if your adjustment worked as planned or if you have to continue to make adjustments. Nails you don't have to wait near as long and I can promise you that they hold strong enough as long as your using plywood and not foam. If using foam, you have no choice but using some type of caulk or glue. Caulk might be stronger than the nails but do I really need that extra strength? I've never had my track come up in the past with nails before ballasting. I am just sharing my reasons as an experienced modeler (15+ years) to someone either new to the Hobby or looking at getting into it. Each has their pros and cons. Just like plywood is more durable than foam but also heavier.
Great Tips. Contraction and expansion are so critical. I built a beautiful HO code 83 Flextrack 16x 4 plan on homosote and wood. Came out great . One day a couple of years in, after about a month of not running, I started to run trains and about a dozen kinks in several spots ( most all in the hardest to reach areas) appeared and even though I left a few spots for expansion it wasn't enough, and the track was attached too well,so it all just went haywire.. Had to completely rip up the layout and start over. Switched to Atlas True Track Sectional and haven't had an issue since, because now there are a lot of spots for expansion, and it is more loosely attached, but never again. Have been buying up Kato for my N scale. Doing Dunkin, Cream and Sugar.
Not so much temperature but I have one spot that gives me trouble on low humidity days… it’s a temporary set back for a few cars, so I just reroute my trains… as if the line is out for some prototypical reason… happens a lot on the old operating lines where’s there’s trees and or rock along the track, and the line is out…
Jimmy, another great video! I once had a 32" x 10' layout (HO scale) that I had wired by using rail joiners with feeder wires soldered to the underside. It worked GREAT... until I moved it into a larger room for a layout expansion. Suddenly, nothing worked: I had many dead spots in my track. It turns out that rail joiners are the worst possible conductor for DCC track power. On every layout since then, I provide dedicated track feeders to EVERY section of track and to every turnout. This allows me not to solder rail joiners, allowing for expansion and contraction, and still provide reliable power.
Jimmy,on the train from Durham heading down to Chuck's hobby depot in Landis. Thanks for the a.m. upload. I'm primarily an O gauger but you always have something that everyone can apply.
Nice video Jimmy. I just spent 5 days trouble shooting my new track layout. 18 Inch radius set track on an incline and 6 axle locos is an absolute nightmare, hehehe. But as you say, test test test as you go.
Great tips Jimmy! I personally use Elmer's Glue All on my HO scale track gluing and long pins for track nails.This way if I need to change anything (due to various reasons like goofs or moving damage), I just have to apply 70% isopropyl alcohol and gently remove it. My foam base is over 2 inches deep, so I really don't have to worry about the plywood underneath. When I moved in 2020 my layout had some items fall on top and damage a bunch of tracks. Since I used Elmer's, I was able to fix it relatively easy and save the turnouts that were not damaged. Have a great day!
Holy cow! I JUST started laying track for my diorama last night, using your exact method! I also have 2” foam, so I use round head push pins to hold track till ready for glue. They don’t interfere with trains passing over them. Thanks for the alcohol tip for removal. Today’s coffee is Cafe Bustelo, Brazilian blend.
I've been using Atlas track nails for years and stlil prefer it over adhesives because the track is secured instantly and it still can be tweaked a bit if I want to adjust it to get it smooth and even when sighting down it by eye. I'm using OSB for the mainline on risers and Homasote in the yard. I recently discovered Peco track pins and actually like them better for the Homasote areas over Atlas track nails now.
Good morning Jimmy… I’m drinking “hotel lobby coffee” in beautiful downtown Redwood City… and I’m enjoying the information on your video. I see that you have built layouts on foam board AND plywood, I have a question. Which do you prefer? I’m going to attempt to add a 3’x4’ foldaway section to my layout, so I will definitely have to go back to some of your older videos for a refresher course. And should I just stay with the same substrate?or should I go with rigid (3/4”) plywood? Let me know… (and for Sunday) Happy Father’s Day!!!
Having Community Coffee Signature Blend. Just laid my track for the first time last night and stayed up really late testing it out. Thanks for the tips!
One thing that many enjoy doing and that is the planning. Many track manufacturers have 1:1 size printable plans for the track so that you can place them onto the board to see if the idea will fit and be workable. Can then be handy to place locos and stock onto the physical paper plans so that you can envisage movements. (Or use one of the CAD packages.)
Great video Jimmy! I use the dreamble tool to cut my track. And then use the clippers to cut the ties. And I use pliers to move the rail joiners and rail into place. I only saw the cross over switches and then drop feeders to the actual rail instead of the railroad joiners
Jimmy, once again great video and tips! I look forward to your view points. Do you have a video about pulling up track to reuse or do you buy new track every time? Thanks and looking forward to the next one
As always, great info!!! I use mainly wood glue for roadbed and track. I think the caulk is the better if not best option for stability and removal if needed down the road. My experience with caulk is that it will hold but basically peel off easily when dry should change in plan or repair is needed. Wood glue can be a pain to remove and may have to be scraped.
A couple of recommendations. First I like using water soluble glue for laying down my cork and track. That way, if I want to remove some of the track in the future, I can soak the area with water and it'll come up quite easily. For Flex Track, I don't like Atlas because it is shorter (30") and it springs back (doesn't hold a curve) while Peco Flex Track is a full 36" and holds the curve you put into it - MUCH easier to work with. Soldering - use flux and tin both areas first then you'll get a nice smooth solder joint which is really easy to paint over and becomes invisible (although my preference is to solder on the bottom).
Hey Jimmy! Havent been a long time viewer but the content ive watched back has been great. I recently got the track work done on a unitrack layout ive built and this video among others already has me planning the next one in flex track. Keep it up!
I highly recommend Track Planning for Realistic Operation by John Armstrong before designing a plan and laying track. I've read and re-read that book many times. My favorite chapter is the one on track standards and minimums which deals with how close your track centers should be and curve radii, and being aware of S-curve issues. I also include easements on all curves which helps for smooth operation. I'm working on my 4th sizable layout and still using old school track nails or spikes to secure track down to cork roadbed or Homasote. I designed my layout using 11x17 graph paper and drew it all out to scale using a scale rule and compass. As for flex track, Atlas flex track is easiest to use. MicroEngineering is very stiff and it harder to from and work with. I went with Peco code 83 flex and turnouts for the main of my layout; Peco is fairly easy to flex. I prefer not to use an adhesive because you have to weigh down while it cures and you can't maintain visual reference if the track is nice and straight or smooth while cures. With track nails, I can actually tweak it a bit after it is secured to make sure it flows smooth and even when you sight down it visually. There are many ways to lay track so consider them and decide for yourself. Adhesives seem to be popular these days but it's not for me. If anyone wants to see my track laying progress, it's posted at the AtlasRescueForum, HO section under Project Archive. As for getting the paint off after spraying the track, I learned from Rob Spangler of wp8thsub fame, you can drag a utility blade along the top of the rail and it will easily scrape off the dried paint clean! It worked great! As for expansion/contraction: my first large layout was in a garage in southern Indiana. I soldered all the rail joints which seemed to be the what people recommended. It was all Atlas code 100 flex and turnouts. In the winter (garage not insulated) the track actually pulled apart breaking joints. I'm in a basement now which is temperature regulated and dehumidified but still leaving a bit of a gap at joints and only soldering some of the curves. That way the track can breath. I'm soldering drops every other joint on the flex.
Oh yes... the more I learn, the more I see the errors I have made in track work. Thanks for continuing my education, and I wonder if I'll ever get around to ripping up bad sections or just shim in some hacky fixes. Oh, there is another video idea, 'better' and 'bad' hacks for avoiding ripping and replacing.
A track laying option: If you’re detailing your track (ties, the turnout mechanisms), do it before you lay the track. It’s easier to do when you can handle the track, rather than bend to where it is. (I’m old.😊) I do a few sections of track ahead of where I’m ready to lay it. As I finish each few sections, the next few are ready. Note: This is the lazy old man-take your time-no hurry method. If you’re try to get it done a quick as possible, ignore everything I just said.😊
Great point. I did this for my entire mainline after nailing it down with tiny Atlas track nails (old school). I put a nail down every 3 inches on straight sections and about every 2 inches on curves, and make sure the nail head is a bit below the surface so when you sand the cork, you aren't hitting the tiny nail heads. Also, one side of the cork is rough after you split it in half so it needs sanding to smooth it out. Using the tiny nails means I can had the cork secured instantly rather than waiting for an adhesive to dry. And you can pull the tiny nails out with needle nose plyers and relay if need be before ballasting.
pros and or cons of soldering to track as opposed to soldering rail joiners...? You mentioned expansion and contraction ,any other reasons for or against either method ?
There is actually a downside to track nails. If set too firmly, and you are using a soft roadbed, they can bow the tie and pull the rails inward narrowing the gauge. For Unitrack and similar, I put the caulk dabs at each end just short of the joiners. That way there is no chance of getting caulk into the joiners, possibly messing up the connections, and making the joiners difficult to remove if you need to change the track alignment. For flex or sectional track I use Elmers (or other water soluble glue) to glue down the track. Again this makes removing the track easier. However, I use Mod Podge (which is alcohol;, not ware, soluble) for ballast gluing, as Elmers dries with a glossy sheen. and yes, lots of push pins. Recently I did a pair of HO modules for a club project and I 3D printed guides for the joints between flex and turnouts, and for between track spacing to make sure thhe these were straight. I'll post these to Thingiverse. Avoiding kinks at track joints is important. Something Jimmy didn't cover.
The down side is only for people who are ham fisted at nailing the track down. I'm pretty experienced with using Atlas track nails and there is an easy solution. Just be careful when hammering them in and leave a tiny bit of space between the nail head and the tie. I also use a nail set to drive the nails the last bit and a small hobby hammer. After ballasting you can pull the nails out as the ballast will secure the track.
Nice video . How ever hard I try with flexi track I still have gaps between the rails. Looks at pros on UA-cam even looks like they have the same issue. Shame someone doesn’t have a business where they come and LAY all the track and fully wire DCC for you ! Part of the fun for me is running the trains and then scenery etc etc just not laying track and soldering
One of the things I have always hate doing track work, especially laying track. It's one of the most un-fun parts of model railroading. Maybe thats why when I get a layout built I stick with it for years and years.....
A tip, if you spray your track, be sure to spray it from all directions, at least if it's going to be viewed from multiple angles and especially multiple sides.
What kind of coffee - black coffee...To lay track I use simple Elmer's full strength. I put a dab every 12 inches and then the ballasting will solidify the layout. Also this will make it easy to reuse track and switches on a new road. Simply soak with wet water. I solder the feeder wire to the underside of the track so it will not show. Nails for track look "tacky" and not prototypical at all. I gap my track every 6 feet. This will give you enough space. If you have any tunnels you need to do all track work before covering up the track. This is especially rue for the ballast, so ballast from a foot outside the portal to inside where you can not see the track. This is soooooo much easier.
So I’m slowly building my first N Scale layout. I already have a 54” X 34” rectangle which is going to be my overall size. Now I just want a siding and rail yard. Should I get the turnouts and pieces, or just wait save and get the expansion pack with pretty much everything? Really having to strategize
Does anyone know how to solve this problem: I put my track on cork with track nails. After that, my trains run nice and quietly. But after ballasting and fixing the ballast with diluted wood glue, my trains are much noisier. I expect that this is due to wood glue hardening the cork. Does anyone know how to keep the noise down, maybe by insulating the cork from the glue?
What I do is use an under lever of extruded foam (the pink or blue stuff), then a layer of cork and finally the rail bed and rails are glued on top. This dampens the sound pretty good 😊
@@abbofun9022 Thanks for responding.I use foam with cork on top as well. How do you fix the ballast? Or do you use ballasted track? The problem I have is due to fixing the ballast with wood glue which, I assume, gets into the cork and hardens it.
@@diedertspijkerboer no, 1 part wood glue, 2 part water and mini drop of soap. Drip it in and let it dry, likely exactly how you do it as well. Only thing I can think of is the undercarriage, I.E. the xps foam, assume it is glued to a piece of plywood and is that properly secured? Could act as a soundboard if it is all a bit flimsy and wobbly. Otherwise, me is 60+ and according to the mrs am getting a bit deafer, not much just a bit.
“Bajillion!!!”😂😂😂 Metro store brand this morning. I always lay track with water soluble white glue in case I have to take it up again. Thanks for sharing, Jimmy.🇨🇦
I've seen time and time again where people rip out their layouts because their frustrations with track not performing up to expectations. I am personally against using glue or caulk but on foam, you probably don't have any other choice. I use track nails vs glue so I can test as I go and I don't have to wait for glue/caulk to dry. I nail my roadbed to the plywood first with track nails, then I nail my track on top. If something doesn't act right, I use wire cutters and gently pop the nail out, make my slight adjustment, then hammer the nail back in. When it's all good and you have 0 issues, then you can ballast and glue that to your track and then that glue will also glue the cork to the plywood. That's been my tried and true method for about 15 years. - Jason
the nice thing about the latex caulk is that it holds well, and it can be pulled up easily. Then, when you glue your ballast, you've got something more sturdy or substantial.
@@andrewlaverghetta715 but like I mentioned, the downside to using caulk is that if you have a newer person in the hobby with not a lot of experience; it is when they make track adjustments and you have to wait for the glue to cure before you can really test to see if your adjustment worked as planned or if you have to continue to make adjustments. Nails you don't have to wait near as long and I can promise you that they hold strong enough as long as your using plywood and not foam. If using foam, you have no choice but using some type of caulk or glue. Caulk might be stronger than the nails but do I really need that extra strength? I've never had my track come up in the past with nails before ballasting. I am just sharing my reasons as an experienced modeler (15+ years) to someone either new to the Hobby or looking at getting into it. Each has their pros and cons. Just like plywood is more durable than foam but also heavier.
Great Tips. Contraction and expansion are so critical. I built a beautiful HO code 83 Flextrack 16x 4 plan on homosote and wood. Came out great . One day a couple of years in, after about a month of not running, I started to run trains and about a dozen kinks in several spots ( most all in the hardest to reach areas) appeared and even though I left a few spots for expansion it wasn't enough, and the track was attached too well,so it all just went haywire.. Had to completely rip up the layout and start over. Switched to Atlas True Track Sectional and haven't had an issue since, because now there are a lot of spots for expansion, and it is more loosely attached, but never again. Have been buying up Kato for my N scale. Doing Dunkin, Cream and Sugar.
Not so much temperature but I have one spot that gives me trouble on low humidity days… it’s a temporary set back for a few cars, so I just reroute my trains… as if the line is out for some prototypical reason… happens a lot on the old operating lines where’s there’s trees and or rock along the track, and the line is out…
Jimmy, another great video! I once had a 32" x 10' layout (HO scale) that I had wired by using rail joiners with feeder wires soldered to the underside. It worked GREAT... until I moved it into a larger room for a layout expansion. Suddenly, nothing worked: I had many dead spots in my track. It turns out that rail joiners are the worst possible conductor for DCC track power. On every layout since then, I provide dedicated track feeders to EVERY section of track and to every turnout. This allows me not to solder rail joiners, allowing for expansion and contraction, and still provide reliable power.
Completely agree, have similar experiences
Jimmy,on the train from Durham heading down to Chuck's hobby depot in Landis. Thanks for the a.m. upload. I'm primarily an O gauger but you always have something that everyone can apply.
All important info, Jimmy. Drinking a mixture of freshly ground Kirkland Green Bag and Black Rifle this morning.
Nice video Jimmy. I just spent 5 days trouble shooting my new track layout. 18 Inch radius set track on an incline and 6 axle locos is an absolute nightmare, hehehe. But as you say, test test test as you go.
Great tips Jimmy! I personally use Elmer's Glue All on my HO scale track gluing and long pins for track nails.This way if I need to change anything (due to various reasons like goofs or moving damage), I just have to apply 70% isopropyl alcohol and gently remove it. My foam base is over 2 inches deep, so I really don't have to worry about the plywood underneath. When I moved in 2020 my layout had some items fall on top and damage a bunch of tracks. Since I used Elmer's, I was able to fix it relatively easy and save the turnouts that were not damaged. Have a great day!
Holy cow! I JUST started laying track for my diorama last night, using your exact method! I also have 2” foam, so I use round head push pins to hold track till ready for glue. They don’t interfere with trains passing over them. Thanks for the alcohol tip for removal.
Today’s coffee is Cafe Bustelo, Brazilian blend.
I've been using Atlas track nails for years and stlil prefer it over adhesives because the track is secured instantly and it still can be tweaked a bit if I want to adjust it to get it smooth and even when sighting down it by eye. I'm using OSB for the mainline on risers and Homasote in the yard. I recently discovered Peco track pins and actually like them better for the Homasote areas over Atlas track nails now.
Good morning Jimmy… I’m drinking “hotel lobby coffee” in beautiful downtown Redwood City… and I’m enjoying the information on your video. I see that you have built layouts on foam board AND plywood, I have a question. Which do you prefer? I’m going to attempt to add a 3’x4’ foldaway section to my layout, so I will definitely have to go back to some of your older videos for a refresher course. And should I just stay with the same substrate?or should I go with rigid (3/4”) plywood? Let me know… (and for Sunday)
Happy Father’s Day!!!
Having Community Coffee Signature Blend. Just laid my track for the first time last night and stayed up really late testing it out. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks Jimmy for some great tips on track laying today. Have a great day and see you next week.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Nice tips Jimmy. Between the video and some of the great comments this is a great place to come for advice.
One thing that many enjoy doing and that is the planning. Many track manufacturers have 1:1 size printable plans for the track so that you can place them onto the board to see if the idea will fit and be workable. Can then be handy to place locos and stock onto the physical paper plans so that you can envisage movements. (Or use one of the CAD packages.)
Great video Jimmy! I use the dreamble tool to cut my track. And then use the clippers to cut the ties. And I use pliers to move the rail joiners and rail into place. I only saw the cross over switches and then drop feeders to the actual rail instead of the railroad joiners
always use your longest cars when testing your track
Thank you for all the tips in laying track.
I'm Over The Road and didn't have time for coffee this morning. So I pulled out a can of Jocko Go Afterburner Orange.
Jimmy, once again great video and tips! I look forward to your view points.
Do you have a video about pulling up track to reuse or do you buy new track every time? Thanks and looking forward to the next one
As always, great info!!! I use mainly wood glue for roadbed and track. I think the caulk is the better if not best option for stability and removal if needed down the road. My experience with caulk is that it will hold but basically peel off easily when dry should change in plan or repair is needed. Wood glue can be a pain to remove and may have to be scraped.
A couple of recommendations. First I like using water soluble glue for laying down my cork and track. That way, if I want to remove some of the track in the future, I can soak the area with water and it'll come up quite easily. For Flex Track, I don't like Atlas because it is shorter (30") and it springs back (doesn't hold a curve) while Peco Flex Track is a full 36" and holds the curve you put into it - MUCH easier to work with. Soldering - use flux and tin both areas first then you'll get a nice smooth solder joint which is really easy to paint over and becomes invisible (although my preference is to solder on the bottom).
Excellent info. You should make a checklist for laying track and sell it.
Hey Jimmy!
Havent been a long time viewer but the content ive watched back has been great. I recently got the track work done on a unitrack layout ive built and this video among others already has me planning the next one in flex track. Keep it up!
I highly recommend Track Planning for Realistic Operation by John Armstrong before designing a plan and laying track. I've read and re-read that book many times. My favorite chapter is the one on track standards and minimums which deals with how close your track centers should be and curve radii, and being aware of S-curve issues. I also include easements on all curves which helps for smooth operation.
I'm working on my 4th sizable layout and still using old school track nails or spikes to secure track down to cork roadbed or Homasote. I designed my layout using 11x17 graph paper and drew it all out to scale using a scale rule and compass. As for flex track, Atlas flex track is easiest to use. MicroEngineering is very stiff and it harder to from and work with. I went with Peco code 83 flex and turnouts for the main of my layout; Peco is fairly easy to flex.
I prefer not to use an adhesive because you have to weigh down while it cures and you can't maintain visual reference if the track is nice and straight or smooth while cures. With track nails, I can actually tweak it a bit after it is secured to make sure it flows smooth and even when you sight down it visually. There are many ways to lay track so consider them and decide for yourself. Adhesives seem to be popular these days but it's not for me. If anyone wants to see my track laying progress, it's posted at the AtlasRescueForum, HO section under Project Archive. As for getting the paint off after spraying the track, I learned from Rob Spangler of wp8thsub fame, you can drag a utility blade along the top of the rail and it will easily scrape off the dried paint clean! It worked great!
As for expansion/contraction: my first large layout was in a garage in southern Indiana. I soldered all the rail joints which seemed to be the what people recommended. It was all Atlas code 100 flex and turnouts. In the winter (garage not insulated) the track actually pulled apart breaking joints. I'm in a basement now which is temperature regulated and dehumidified but still leaving a bit of a gap at joints and only soldering some of the curves. That way the track can breath. I'm soldering drops every other joint on the flex.
Oh yes... the more I learn, the more I see the errors I have made in track work. Thanks for continuing my education, and I wonder if I'll ever get around to ripping up bad sections or just shim in some hacky fixes. Oh, there is another video idea, 'better' and 'bad' hacks for avoiding ripping and replacing.
Thanks!
A track laying option: If you’re detailing your track (ties, the turnout mechanisms), do it before you lay the track. It’s easier to do when you can handle the track, rather than bend to where it is. (I’m old.😊) I do a few sections of track ahead of where I’m ready to lay it. As I finish each few sections, the next few are ready. Note: This is the lazy old man-take your time-no hurry method. If you’re try to get it done a quick as possible, ignore everything I just said.😊
Quick note. Sand and paint the rough shoulders and top of the cork roadbed before laying track as it will make ballasting easier later.
Great point. I did this for my entire mainline after nailing it down with tiny Atlas track nails (old school). I put a nail down every 3 inches on straight sections and about every 2 inches on curves, and make sure the nail head is a bit below the surface so when you sand the cork, you aren't hitting the tiny nail heads. Also, one side of the cork is rough after you split it in half so it needs sanding to smooth it out. Using the tiny nails means I can had the cork secured instantly rather than waiting for an adhesive to dry. And you can pull the tiny nails out with needle nose plyers and relay if need be before ballasting.
@@riogrande57613❤😂❤❤😂w25
pros and or cons of soldering to track as opposed to soldering rail joiners...? You mentioned expansion and contraction ,any other reasons for or against either method ?
There is actually a downside to track nails. If set too firmly, and you are using a soft roadbed, they can bow the tie and pull the rails inward narrowing the gauge.
For Unitrack and similar, I put the caulk dabs at each end just short of the joiners. That way there is no chance of getting caulk into the joiners, possibly messing up the connections, and making the joiners difficult to remove if you need to change the track alignment.
For flex or sectional track I use Elmers (or other water soluble glue) to glue down the track. Again this makes removing the track easier. However, I use Mod Podge (which is alcohol;, not ware, soluble) for ballast gluing, as Elmers dries with a glossy sheen. and yes, lots of push pins.
Recently I did a pair of HO modules for a club project and I 3D printed guides for the joints between flex and turnouts, and for between track spacing to make sure thhe these were straight. I'll post these to Thingiverse. Avoiding kinks at track joints is important. Something Jimmy didn't cover.
The down side is only for people who are ham fisted at nailing the track down. I'm pretty experienced with using Atlas track nails and there is an easy solution. Just be careful when hammering them in and leave a tiny bit of space between the nail head and the tie. I also use a nail set to drive the nails the last bit and a small hobby hammer. After ballasting you can pull the nails out as the ballast will secure the track.
Great video!
Nice video . How ever hard I try with flexi track I still have gaps between the rails. Looks at pros on UA-cam even looks like they have the same issue. Shame someone doesn’t have a business where they come and LAY all the track and fully wire DCC for you ! Part of the fun for me is running the trains and then scenery etc etc just not laying track and soldering
What have you found as the best way to cut extruded foam?
One of the things I have always hate doing track work, especially laying track. It's one of the most un-fun parts of model railroading. Maybe thats why when I get a layout built I stick with it for years and years.....
A tip, if you spray your track, be sure to spray it from all directions, at least if it's going to be viewed from multiple angles and especially multiple sides.
What kind of coffee - black coffee...To lay track I use simple Elmer's full strength. I put a dab every 12 inches and then the ballasting will solidify the layout. Also this will make it easy to reuse track and switches on a new road. Simply soak with wet water. I solder the feeder wire to the underside of the track so it will not show. Nails for track look "tacky" and not prototypical at all. I gap my track every 6 feet. This will give you enough space. If you have any tunnels you need to do all track work before covering up the track. This is especially rue for the ballast, so ballast from a foot outside the portal to inside where you can not see the track. This is soooooo much easier.
Where did you get the roadbed from that you used for MRR2?
Are those curves in the last layout shot superelevated? If so, maybe a subject for a video?
As always, thanks for making the videos!
I thought the most important part of model railroading was going onto UA-cam and telling everyone why they are doing everything wrong!
Great video. Calvin Stephens
So I’m slowly building my first N Scale layout. I already have a 54” X 34” rectangle which is going to be my overall size. Now I just want a siding and rail yard. Should I get the turnouts and pieces, or just wait save and get the expansion pack with pretty much everything? Really having to strategize
Miss the most crucial tip of all; be patient and don’t go rushing!! 😊
All great tips thanks 😊
If you don't know how to solder or bit put off it's your first time, you can buy rail joiners with feeder wires already attached.
This morning, I drank a homemade iced latte with homemade caramel syrup.
That sounds delicious! ☕
@@Ferrocarril_Chicago Thanks
Does beer count?
Good stuff here pimpdaddysaurus
Store brand French Roast!
In Prince Edward Island, we drink Tim Hortons or Kirkland from Costco when working on the trains!!
Does anyone know how to solve this problem:
I put my track on cork with track nails. After that, my trains run nice and quietly. But after ballasting and fixing the ballast with diluted wood glue, my trains are much noisier. I expect that this is due to wood glue hardening the cork. Does anyone know how to keep the noise down, maybe by insulating the cork from the glue?
What I do is use an under lever of extruded foam (the pink or blue stuff), then a layer of cork and finally the rail bed and rails are glued on top. This dampens the sound pretty good 😊
@@abbofun9022 Thanks for responding.I use foam with cork on top as well. How do you fix the ballast? Or do you use ballasted track? The problem I have is due to fixing the ballast with wood glue which, I assume, gets into the cork and hardens it.
@@diedertspijkerboer no I use same method but don’t really have the noise problem, the xps dampens it enough for my taste
@@abbofun9022 Or are you using a different glue than wood glue?
@@diedertspijkerboer no, 1 part wood glue, 2 part water and mini drop of soap. Drip it in and let it dry, likely exactly how you do it as well.
Only thing I can think of is the undercarriage, I.E. the xps foam, assume it is glued to a piece of plywood and is that properly secured? Could act as a soundboard if it is all a bit flimsy and wobbly.
Otherwise, me is 60+ and according to the mrs am getting a bit deafer, not much just a bit.
Yes plan on your longest car and lay your track naturally DON'T force it to fit !
Today I'm drinking iced coffee with a dash of vanilla extract.
What I’ve learned is to lay down your background scenery before you add buildings and any type of greenery. Never make that mistake again.
ok!
I use silicon to glue it down
Never and I mean never cheap out on track
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