First class work, Tony. Enjoyed your story about the Americans coming for a visit and the factory hiding the duff boards. I worked in the electronics industry over 20 years ago and remember doing just that when the auditors were in! 😂
British MBA qualified manager's answer to most things. First resort to deception instead of accepting the ugly truth and dealing with them. Now I am older I can see that misplaced loyalty is a bad thing, these days I would walk up to the owners and tell them the situation. The truth is the only thing that really matters.
Smashing repair 😀 I was a bit concerned about Q3 connecting to the burnt parts. But it wasn't damaged :-D The owner is very lucky that you are a clever bloke and resuscitated the circuit lol. I have no love for Viper pwm transformer drivers, seen too many dead for no obvious reason. Ay up i'm moaning again lol.
These low-cost low-component count implementation of a switch mode of power supplies using PWM chips with integrated switching FET are exposed to the mains with very little protection within the design. I would never use them in a high reliability design. Just compare a Miele tumble dryer controller to a Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Neff etc. and you will instantly see the difference in approach.
Your videos are the bomb I’ve always wanted a posh uncle. I love Folks like Marco reps and big Clive and diode gone wild… But don’t seem to get as many pure methodical troubleshooting videos and there’s a real void of that on the platform. I do mostly industrial repair but specialize in metrology and test equipment configuration and calibration. Mostly for a little research labs and R&D type folks here in the southern United States. only one town over from Oak Ridge national laboratory so that helps a lot because of the massive community of supporting technology that’s been built up around that facility the last 50 years. You can’t imagine all the weird and cool stuff that popped up and it was already a rich area for that type of stuff. I’m actually pretty retarded I knew nothing about electronics 10 years ago. So bad that I was working on a tig welder of mine and got blown back after getting hit with one of the big Pringles cans size capacitors. Since I used to restore a lot of machine tool and equipment I figured it was time I start to learn and Tinker. Before I accidentally killed myself. So started going to a local scrapyard and buying old industrial stuff for $0.10 a pound just rip it apart and see how it worked. And oh shit that was a mistake… I got addicted to it and now here I am. Somehow fell backwards into this. It definitely doesn’t come natural and my dumbass has to really concentrate and watch what I’m doing but I really enjoy it. have my own little at home lab started several years back just by piecing together test equipment to troubleshoot and learn. shit ain’t cheap so started buying untested and questionable test equipment, hoping to fix up enough to have a small viable lab. But somehow here I am a few years later driving the same old beat up truck but with a collection of 8.5?digit multimeters at home. I can’t even fart in that corner of the lab or some of that sensitive equipment goes crazy. I should have ignored the “volt nuts“ on UA-cam and on the forums… because that’s the most addictive part of the rabbit hole it’s a slippery slope. Its Like going from Being a functional alcoholic only drinking on the weekends… to smoking crack out of a double barrel shotgun. I still normally work at my regular little bench. But I have to keep a small bench and set up of “NIST traceable” equipment for certain jobs. I guess it gives me an excuse to have nice equipment but still live in near poverty🤷♂️😂 Sorry to ramble… Love the longform videos and I hope you find a lot of success because this was a niche that was mostly missing from UA-cam. The “learn electronics” channel is another really nice British chap with an endearing laugh and skill for faultfinding. Diode gone wild is another very skilled explainer and troubleshooter but only has about a half a dozen videos over the last five years showing in-depth fault finding and troubleshooting techniques. I guess that should be enough but considering each case is different it always helps just to constantly consume that shit. I can only repair and work on so many things at once but if I’m listening to videos like yours at the same time I get double the experience. and even though I usually work on test equipment… Once people know you can repair things there are very many “grateful neighbors“. Andhalf of them are your clients …. that bring you some thing to fix from home. you can’t turn down their inductive stove/type jobs on the weekends. sure is good to have a few channels like yalls channels on UA-cam to watch some actually skilled and efficient troubleshooters. You both are also very good at explaining and helping the autists like myself understand things. Good luck to you and your channel!
Interesting to see inside an induction hob. And some quality banter. ;) Hope my induction hob doesn't break down soon though as what you do is pretty tough for ordinary folk like me, especially the soldering.
Oh dear. I had better improve my soldering skills then. While writing, since yesterday my microwave just started making a constant buzzing noise when plugged in and even while not in operation (i.e. when only the clock is functioning). It still heats up food though, albeit with the buzzing noise in the background. Very annoying because I just completed a mega repair job on the microwave door & handle and was quite pleased with myself about it. Would you have any clues on what type of component to look for? I think it must be that an electrical part is about to fail, hence the noise. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
As an induction hob user, I imagine the therm/other thing is used to drive the 'hot' indicator which remains on after the hob is turned off and the 'no pan' one. The 'hot' itself is mostly coming from the glass and any thing you left on it, as neither the pan itself nor the ring really gets hot - only by way of what's in /on it. An empty pan doesn't really do anything. Totally bemusing way of cooking but works fine for the most part. Scratched and dirty glass tops can be avoided by putting a sheet of newspaper on between the plan and the hob while cooking which also keeps any spatters of the glass. Like I say, totally bemusing....
Having said that, what can't be accounted for is stuff dropping out of the overhead cupboard and smashing the glass. Sadly, I have not found a solution for that but my, now 2 ring , hob soldiers on. Plus, I have two donor rings for when these two give up.
Interesting. I have seen a couple of smashed ones. The glass doesn't seem that toughened. Possible difficult to do due to the heat stress in the hotplate areas. Good stuff to use to protect the glass is silicone mat 0.2mm thick with glass fibre reinforcement. You can get it in pretty colors..
@@razenby the silicone mat idea sounds interesting. I was thinking of using thin balsa wood since it would allow the heavy pans to slide, take some impact and might also insulate the hob against heat from the pan.
No I buy mine from China for a few quid on Aliexpress.com The element type is common in the East. You need to get one made from 317 stainless if you can..
IGBT Combines the features of a MOSFET (input characteristics) and a Bipolar Junction Transistor (BJT) (output characteristics). It also has three terminals: Gate, Collector, and Emitter. FETs are faster and better suited for low-power, high-frequency applications, whereas IGBTs are more efficient for high-power, low-frequency applications. FETs typically have lower conduction losses at lower power levels, while IGBTs can handle higher voltages and currents but with a slower switching speed. FET Operates as a voltage-controlled device; the Gate voltage controls the current flow from Source to Drain. It is purely a majority carrier device (electrons for n-channel, holes for p-channel), which allows for faster switching speeds. IGBT: Also operates as a voltage-controlled device, but it combines the high input impedance of a MOSFET with the high current and voltage capabilities of a BJT. It has both majority and minority carriers, which improves its current handling but slows down switching compared to MOSFETs. Switching SpeedS: FET: Generally faster switching speeds because it only uses majority carriers. Suitable for high-frequency applications. IGBT:Slower switching speeds compared to FETs due to the involvement of both majority and minority carriers. More suitable for low to medium-frequency applications. Hope that helps.
I agree, all in all, the board was well made and well laid out. The production problem was the hole diameter in the board was too large for the shunt wire diameter. It prevented tge surface teniis if the solder doing it's thing..
Nice boards. This was a combined production and design screw -up. Hole in PCB too big. Required touch up of joint as seen on the other board so production knew about it. They should have raised a RFC (request For Change notification) and got engineering to address the design issue. In the meantime they should have insisted 100% hand touch up of these joints.
@5'04" - I suspect the spring loaded button in the middle of the heating coil has an optical (IR?) sensor as well as a temp sensor - hence the 2 sets of wires / two holes in its surface and lack of thermal paste over the holes. Probably the sensor bounces IR light through the glass top to detect objects? Might be worth checking to see if any of your new thermal paste covered any of the optical holes - especially if the hob is behaving weirdly (i.e. slow to reduce power when pan removed). If it is an optical sensor, your 'Love Juice' comment @58'12" may be the source (or sauce) of a ribald comment or two? Thanks for your descriptive repairs, educational and very enjoyable style. Very much appreciated.
Good thought. Might not be an optical sensor as the whole shebang is drenched in TiO2 heat sink paste. No optical path. I will get a hob that is not needed for dinner and play with it as they are an interesting thing. If I had designed it I would want an inductive sensor up there to see if there is a pan or not and to report the field strength to close the loop providing feedback on coupling, field strength pan eddy current. to the drive circuitry. Limitation of the unwanted radiation:, Frying a metal watch strap, protection of the drive output stage -- that sort of thing.
@Magic Smoke .Agree that an inductive sensor makes more sense (excuse the pun), but, at 2'09" it looks like one side of the central button has a dip (with 2 holes) that has been carefully left without heatsink compound. At 1'54" it looks like all 4 element buttons have the same pattern of heatsink compound.
Another first class repair Tony. I also had an MGB GT in my younger days and nearly came unstuck on more than one occasion as it was the model with the V8 engine in it. How I didn't lose my licence I will never know.
Thanks. Was that the Triumph stag engine? (Stag was a label we used meaning 'unreliable' to wind up the boss who owned a very unreliable Stag. Ooh that's a bit Stag ). I love V8s I have an Audi S4 and Range Rover (LPG) , both V8 but prefer the American firing order- it sounds more like a growling Golden Retriever on steroids than a pair of Morris Minors .
Hi, I got your contact from knoxieman, wondered if you would be interested in a collab, let me know! I sent another message with my email but think it has been filtered out.
We need an EV charger fixed!!! It's for a gwizz electric car we are featuring on my channel. Its 48V 10A and there's no output at all. We can pay. Just thought it might be cool content and we can give you a shout out too!
First class work, Tony.
Enjoyed your story about the Americans coming for a visit and the factory hiding the duff boards. I worked in the electronics industry over 20 years ago and remember doing just that when the auditors were in! 😂
British MBA qualified manager's answer to most things. First resort to deception instead of accepting the ugly truth and dealing with them. Now I am older I can see that misplaced loyalty is a bad thing, these days I would walk up to the owners and tell them the situation. The truth is the only thing that really matters.
Smashing repair 😀
I was a bit concerned about Q3 connecting to the burnt parts.
But it wasn't damaged :-D
The owner is very lucky that you are a clever bloke and resuscitated the circuit lol.
I have no love for Viper pwm transformer drivers, seen too many dead for no obvious reason.
Ay up i'm moaning again lol.
Yh. Infineon are about the best but I've seen plenty of duffns of those as well. Don't get me started on Power integration!
These low-cost low-component count implementation of a switch mode of power supplies using PWM chips with integrated switching FET are exposed to the mains with very little protection within the design. I would never use them in a high reliability design. Just compare a Miele tumble dryer controller to a Hotpoint, Whirlpool, Neff etc. and you will instantly see the difference in approach.
Your videos are the bomb
I’ve always wanted a posh uncle. I love Folks like Marco reps and big Clive and diode gone wild… But don’t seem to get as many pure methodical troubleshooting videos and there’s a real void of that on the platform.
I do mostly industrial repair but specialize in metrology and test equipment configuration and calibration. Mostly for a little research labs and R&D type folks here in the southern United States. only one town over from Oak Ridge national laboratory so that helps a lot because of the massive community of supporting technology that’s been built up around that facility the last 50 years.
You can’t imagine all the weird and cool stuff that popped up and it was already a rich area for that type of stuff.
I’m actually pretty retarded I knew nothing about electronics 10 years ago. So bad that I was working on a tig welder of mine and got blown back after getting hit with one of the big Pringles cans size capacitors. Since I used to restore a lot of machine tool and equipment I figured it was time I start to learn and Tinker. Before I accidentally killed myself. So started going to a local scrapyard and buying old industrial stuff for $0.10 a pound just rip it apart and see how it worked. And oh shit that was a mistake… I got addicted to it and now here I am. Somehow fell backwards into this. It definitely doesn’t come natural and my dumbass has to really concentrate and watch what I’m doing but I really enjoy it.
have my own little at home lab started several years back just by piecing together test equipment to troubleshoot and learn. shit ain’t cheap so started buying untested and questionable test equipment, hoping to fix up enough to have a small viable lab.
But somehow here I am a few years later driving the same old beat up truck but with a collection of 8.5?digit multimeters at home. I can’t even fart in that corner of the lab or some of that sensitive equipment goes crazy. I should have ignored the “volt nuts“ on UA-cam and on the forums… because that’s the most addictive part of the rabbit hole it’s a slippery slope. Its Like going from Being a functional alcoholic only drinking on the weekends… to smoking crack out of a double barrel shotgun.
I still normally work at my regular little bench. But I have to keep a small bench and set up of “NIST traceable” equipment for certain jobs. I guess it gives me an excuse to have nice equipment but still live in near poverty🤷♂️😂
Sorry to ramble… Love the longform videos and I hope you find a lot of success because this was a niche that was mostly missing from UA-cam. The “learn electronics” channel is another really nice British chap with an endearing laugh and skill for faultfinding.
Diode gone wild is another very skilled explainer and troubleshooter but only has about a half a dozen videos over the last five years showing in-depth fault finding and troubleshooting techniques. I guess that should be enough but considering each case is different it always helps just to constantly consume that shit. I can only repair and work on so many things at once but if I’m listening to videos like yours at the same time I get double the experience. and even though I usually work on test equipment… Once people know you can repair things there are very many “grateful neighbors“. Andhalf of them are your clients …. that bring you some thing to fix from home. you can’t turn down their inductive stove/type jobs on the weekends.
sure is good to have a few channels like yalls channels on UA-cam to watch some actually skilled and efficient troubleshooters. You both are also very good at explaining and helping the autists like myself understand things.
Good luck to you and your channel!
Many thanks and thanks for your comment.
My sort of repair 😀 Liked and Subscribed. Could you tell me what your overhead camera is? It's better than mine and I was thinking of upgrading.
I use a Sony HDR-CX900
Interesting to see inside an induction hob. And some quality banter. ;) Hope my induction hob doesn't break down soon though as what you do is pretty tough for ordinary folk like me, especially the soldering.
Thanks for watching. Apparently there are a lot o scrap hobs out there..
Oh dear. I had better improve my soldering skills then.
While writing, since yesterday my microwave just started making a constant buzzing noise when plugged in and even while not in operation (i.e. when only the clock is functioning). It still heats up food though, albeit with the buzzing noise in the background. Very annoying because I just completed a mega repair job on the microwave door & handle and was quite pleased with myself about it.
Would you have any clues on what type of component to look for? I think it must be that an electrical part is about to fail, hence the noise. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
Thanks for the video. You and Richard from learn electronics repair are like two peas in a pod. I think Guys of our age have a similar humour. 😂
Our pleasure! Thanks for watching.
As an induction hob user, I imagine the therm/other thing is used to drive the 'hot' indicator which remains on after the hob is turned off and the 'no pan' one. The 'hot' itself is mostly coming from the glass and any thing you left on it, as neither the pan itself nor the ring really gets hot - only by way of what's in /on it. An empty pan doesn't really do anything. Totally bemusing way of cooking but works fine for the most part. Scratched and dirty glass tops can be avoided by putting a sheet of newspaper on between the plan and the hob while cooking which also keeps any spatters of the glass. Like I say, totally bemusing....
Having said that, what can't be accounted for is stuff dropping out of the overhead cupboard and smashing the glass. Sadly, I have not found a solution for that but my, now 2 ring , hob soldiers on. Plus, I have two donor rings for when these two give up.
Interesting. I have seen a couple of smashed ones. The glass doesn't seem that toughened. Possible difficult to do due to the heat stress in the hotplate areas. Good stuff to use to protect the glass is silicone mat 0.2mm thick with glass fibre reinforcement. You can get it in pretty colors..
@@razenby the silicone mat idea sounds interesting. I was thinking of using thin balsa wood since it would allow the heavy pans to slide, take some impact and might also insulate the hob against heat from the pan.
Hi,
Just a quick question. Where can i find this power board? Do you have a link?
Ni idea. I always repair them.
random question: from your ecocent video do you know the part numbers for the ecocent anode and the heater element TIA 👍
No I buy mine from China for a few quid on Aliexpress.com The element type is common in the East. You need to get one made from 317 stainless if you can..
Are IGBTs FETs? I'm confused! I thought they were a cross between bipolar transistors and FETs.
IGBT Combines the features of a MOSFET (input characteristics) and a Bipolar Junction Transistor (BJT) (output characteristics). It also has three terminals: Gate, Collector, and Emitter. FETs are faster and better suited for low-power, high-frequency applications, whereas IGBTs are more efficient for high-power, low-frequency applications. FETs typically have lower conduction losses at lower power levels, while IGBTs can handle higher voltages and currents but with a slower switching speed.
FET Operates as a voltage-controlled device; the Gate voltage controls the current flow from Source to Drain. It is purely a majority carrier device (electrons for n-channel, holes for p-channel), which allows for faster switching speeds.
IGBT: Also operates as a voltage-controlled device, but it combines the high input impedance of a MOSFET with the high current and voltage capabilities of a BJT.
It has both majority and minority carriers, which improves its current handling but slows down switching compared to MOSFETs. Switching SpeedS: FET: Generally faster switching speeds because it only uses majority carriers.
Suitable for high-frequency applications.
IGBT:Slower switching speeds compared to FETs due to the involvement of both majority and minority carriers. More suitable for low to medium-frequency applications.
Hope that helps.
Shitty cold solder joint but that board is nice with its markings.
I agree, all in all, the board was well made and well laid out. The production problem was the hole diameter in the board was too large for the shunt wire diameter. It prevented tge surface teniis if the solder doing it's thing..
Nice boards. This was a combined production and design screw -up. Hole in PCB too big. Required touch up of joint as seen on the other board so production knew about it. They should have raised a RFC (request For Change notification) and got engineering to address the design issue. In the meantime they should have insisted 100% hand touch up of these joints.
@5'04" - I suspect the spring loaded button in the middle of the heating coil has an optical (IR?) sensor as well as a temp sensor - hence the 2 sets of wires / two holes in its surface and lack of thermal paste over the holes. Probably the sensor bounces IR light through the glass top to detect objects?
Might be worth checking to see if any of your new thermal paste covered any of the optical holes - especially if the hob is behaving weirdly (i.e. slow to reduce power when pan removed).
If it is an optical sensor, your 'Love Juice' comment @58'12" may be the source (or sauce) of a ribald comment or two?
Thanks for your descriptive repairs, educational and very enjoyable style. Very much appreciated.
Good thought. Might not be an optical sensor as the whole shebang is drenched in TiO2 heat sink paste. No optical path. I will get a hob that is not needed for dinner and play with it as they are an interesting thing. If I had designed it I would want an inductive sensor up there to see if there is a pan or not and to report the field strength to close the loop providing feedback on coupling, field strength pan eddy current. to the drive circuitry. Limitation of the unwanted radiation:, Frying a metal watch strap, protection of the drive output stage -- that sort of thing.
@Magic Smoke .Agree that an inductive sensor makes more sense (excuse the pun), but, at 2'09" it looks like one side of the central button has a dip (with 2 holes) that has been carefully left without heatsink compound. At 1'54" it looks like all 4 element buttons have the same pattern of heatsink compound.
Another first class repair Tony. I also had an MGB GT in my younger days and nearly came unstuck on more than one occasion as it was the model with the V8 engine in it. How I didn't lose my licence I will never know.
Thanks. Was that the Triumph stag engine? (Stag was a label we used meaning 'unreliable' to wind up the boss who owned a very unreliable Stag. Ooh that's a bit Stag ). I love V8s I have an Audi S4 and Range Rover (LPG) , both V8 but prefer the American firing order- it sounds more like a growling Golden Retriever on steroids than a pair of Morris Minors .
Now, that's one helluva Qi wireless phone charger!!! 😯
Darn now you have said we have to try it!!!
That is a good idea.. Will it cook?
@@razenby Do it, you know you want to, nay, _HAVE TO_ do it!
Muahahahahahaha!
Hi, I got your contact from knoxieman, wondered if you would be interested in a collab, let me know! I sent another message with my email but think it has been filtered out.
What form of collaboration do you have in mind?
We need an EV charger fixed!!! It's for a gwizz electric car we are featuring on my channel. Its 48V 10A and there's no output at all. We can pay. Just thought it might be cool content and we can give you a shout out too!