I have repaired a number of built in induction stoves with this same issue. I put it down to the same effect the high frequency of CRT flyback transformers had on cracking solder connections with micro vibrations over time.
@@BuyitFixit Unleaded solder is known to be more susceptible to dry joints, although high frequency/high power usage through leaded solder resulted in similar failure given more time. Possibly the mode of failure was already mature and the drop just finished it off.
Error E0 is shown when non-induction cookware is used. To test a pan use a magnet. If the pan is non-magnetic it will cause the E0 error. Nice fix! Cheers
Nice work! Just goes to show how important visual inspection is when starting a repair - can save lots of head scratching. Thanks for another really interesting and informative video.
The E0 is normally thrown by these hobs when someone tries to use a pan that is not suitable for induction hobs, eg aluminium. Good to see the hob also had a genuine fault. Well done for spotting it that wasn't easy to see
I have been a Ham since 1963, a graduate, hands on EE for 42 years designing power electronics, in retirement for 14 years........electronics troubleshooting is an art which cannot be taught in school............. if someone wanted to teach it they could use your videos as a "textbook".......the only thing would do differently would be to start off with the microscope.......but hindsight is always 20/20........great work...... 73 and keep them coming.......Mike K1FNX near Boston
I have heard of you experts. 😉 😍👍 I worked for RWI (and iRobot, who bought them) and I built the (iRobot) B21R, B14R and the CoWorker. Also the Pioneer (now Activerobots; formerly Activemedia) and did work on the Packbot. I know you know of them. They were in Sommerville when they bought RWI (Jaffrey, NH) and eventually moved us to Milford, NH and then we were gone. (2004-05ish) 😆😊 (iRobot was "IS Robotics" up until c:1997).
That would fit lovely on my bedside table. Nice rare easy fix John. I bought a faulty battery/mains Polaroid DAB2/FM/BT stero radio on ebay £8.00 inc del Mint condition . Same fault. . cracked solder joint on positive leg of DC 5v input socket. Fixed in 5 mins. I use it in the kitchen whilst cooking.Great sound great price. Thanks for the free entertainment, glad to see the growth of your channel.
Great forensics Mick, seeing that crack I thought there would be something disturbed inside. I have been binge watching all your earlier videos, great entertainment, truly a man of many talents 😀 thanks Mick.
@@BuyitFixit and you didn't check the other board :? anyway, maybe a small follow vid if you can spot differences between the 2 power boards, since 1 is 1.2kW and the other is 1kW. Is it set in firmware or with some resistors?
I think both of the main boards are the same, and it's a setting on the front panel boards. They had markings of left and right yet both looked the same.
Yeah, that crack was a classic giveaway that this thing had been physically disturbed. This kind of broken joint is classic for such cases. Often hard to spot unless from a side-angle.
I just got one from ikea works brilliantly easy to control better then our electric cooker halogen hob, safer as well as you can touch the induction hob nearly straight after you’ve cooked on it Brilliant fix mate loved it thanks 😊
Cheers Cucumber Man. Yes I upgraded the one in our kitchen about a year back. It too was a halogen, I like the induction a lot better however I did notice our knives and forks (in a drawer directly under it) seem to get quite warm when it's been used for a long time) not sure if from the induction or from the fan that blows into the drawer from the unit 🤷♂️
Good work! A slight correction to your narrative. Eddy currents play a very insignificant role in the functioning of an induction heater. If it was not so aluminium or copper cookware would have worked better than iron one as eddy currents in those are bigger. No, the real reason induction heaters work so well with iron is that a quick reorientation of the magnetic domains in a ferromagnetic object (eg a steel pot) under the influence of an external high frequency magnetic field is what causes the heating up. That is why it works with thin objects like a bottom of a pot. Eddy current require a thick mass to work more or less efficiently.
Good find. Glad you reflowed the other two legs as there might be some tension built up in those too from the drop. Most of my bad solder joints have been a lot harder to catch, although there are sometimes some telltale signs like dull looking solder and sometimes you can see a very thin black ring in the solder. I often just reflow all large, mechanically mounted, and pin headers as a matter of course these days.
@@BuyitFixit Best one for me was an original Asteroids arcade cabinet I got for $50. Loads of dry joints on the deflection board, but after a full reflow it was up and running. It's the pride of my collection now.
@@TheRealBobHickman Nice. I remember asteroids well. I've worked on a star wars back in the day, and I've still got a box full of boards kicking about. One is a Taito Invaders Part II , might dig it out sometime and have a go at repairing it.
@@BuyitFixit Pretty sure the invaders boards output composite monochrome that you can just plug into a TV (Well, an old TV). Normally the sockets are suspect on those boards since they are single wipe and degrade over the years
Great job and as always with spares or repairs they always just stop working just sitting on the counter top 😅 I really thought there would be a lot of things inside those induction cookers surprised to see how little is used to make them work
Well discovered (despite the cracked case being on the opposite side) and remedied. Sorry to hear that you only have one (mark 1) eyeball, you may be able to find another on flea.
Great fix. Had one fixed a while ago in the repaircafe. They told me that water had been spilled on it. It turned out that that this had caused that a track had burned away. Could fix it with a piece of thick copper wire.
Thanks Diane, yes I did something similar with the solar inverter repair video a few months back. Then had fun when the company wouldn't give me a service password....good job I can disassemble software too 😂😂I never got a reply back from them after I sent them the passwords for my units 😂😂 I did a video on that too 🙂
GOOD FIND! (yes, I had to yell that:) p.s. It might be a idea to drill two small holes on ether end of that crack. Or heat stitch it together a bit.. Thank you for the ride along.
Thanks, it's on the to do list. I've got a few things to get through. I've even got a faulty arcade Space Invaders Pt II board ,made by Taito somewhere..
You DO have the luck of the Irish - you seem to choose things on Ebay that have simple faults! (Or do you just not post the ones that you can't fix 🙂🙂🙂) Congrats on a great rescue!
Thanks 👍I've got a couple of "stubborn" items still here, but it's normally down to parts availability. I didn't have much luck with the Cricut machine for instance but it was just too much work, and it still wouldn't have worked due to being deactivated...
@@BuyitFixit Yes buddy I’m in west wales. I’ve got a M18 Hammer Drill. M18 skill Saw and a M12 caulking gun. All possible electrical faults. If I can get them working I’ll give them to the apprentice. Great tools. Just need a bit of fixing
Excellent work, as always. Nice simple fix, for once. However, having ignored your disclaimer and verbal warning I find myself sitting here typing this comment while my hair, well what's left of my hair, is standing on end, my face covered in black soot, my heart racing at 200 bpm, my eyesight blurred, so forgive any spelling mistakes, and the tips of my fingers are burnt and tingling. Also, my tongue is slightly burned and swollen as I licked a capacitor or two to see if they were charged or not. Sad to say they were charged...🤣🤣🤣⚡⚡⚡
😂😂😂Funny story, when I was a kid (around 6 year old) I ended up falling over a wire, and it came out of the thing it was plugged into. I touched both ends when trying to put the wire back in 😂😂, and I remember a warm feeling and shaking. My mother came to see what was going on as the lights went off and found me sat in a heap with rather black fingers(True story)
@@BuyitFixit 🤣🤣🤣 As a kid, around 10, I was probing a transformer, with a multimeter, in a radio that wasn't working. Of course idiot here had left it plugged in so when my had slipped on one of the probes 240 volts AC jumped up and bit me. Lesson learned, electricity cause pain, electricity bad... 🤣 🤣
Good catch! That fix was easier than working with those damn meter leads. lol Not much in that cook top, I have been inside some older ones and they are chock full of big caps, IGBTs and all sorts of stuff. Like comparing the insides of an old plasma TV vs a TV today. Actually glad plasmas fell out of favor. Such a pain to narrow down what board is the culprit sometimes. Let alone what is wrong on that board.
Yeah plasmas were a bit of a nightmare. I remember they had only been out a couple of years and I paid £30 for faulty 50" Samsung one from the local recycling place. It cost me £50 for a new Y-SUS board, and £10 for a remote, so £90 all in. To a used one at the time would have been at least £300! so I got a bargain.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah, great deal for sure!!! The one good thing with the plasmas was the resale of the remaining good boards inside if it wasn't worth fixing. Now, everything on one board.
@@BuyitFixit Some have the external PSU, like a laptop and some are all in one or like you said, one PSU and one logic board. But, I haven't been in many TVs the last few years myself. Once they got down from a few boards to one I kinda lost interest. Plus moved countries and lots more going on aside that.
Yea thats pretty much how they work as you explained. And fyi if you remove the secondary of a microwave oven transformer and place it on a cooktop and turn it on it will make some pretty big arcs and produce enough of a current and voltage to unalive you.. i tested that theory if it would arc like the transformers do and pretty much yep.. except they have so much potential they will arc through the glass to the coil..
Another great video thanks for sharing yoir work Does bring back some menories of my days repsiring electrinjc stuff from TVs to hifi sysyems to washing machines or anything eith a plug i used to go around electrinic repair shops collecting TVs and VCRs back in the day even trips to the local dump pick up electronic stuff raiding skips this was back when i was in my late teens early 20s absolutely loved it and made a killing in the process tho my father wasnt to happy with the shed and even the loft being ram oacked full of spares and junk haha but beeen living abroad since 2008 and been out kf the repair jobs jjst eo the odd laptop / cimputer here and there As for induction hobs was quite surpised how little was in that unit I have an induction hob ( single ) and swear by it very useful cooks quick and cheaper to run compared to using gas think mine is almost 15yrs old now has a cracked surface still works just have to be careful no fluids het onto it and leak through the crack Even get asked by others in my building ehy is it i can cook rice faster than they can yes this thing cooks rice in half the time than their rice cooker
Thanks 👍I too jused to get bits and bobs from our local recycling places or I've even picked up stuff that people just left outside. Most of the time it was pretty simple to repair it too!
Hi, enjoyed your video, cheers 👍. Given the risks of discharge from the capacitors can you tell us what you do to mitigate the risk? Excuse my ignorance but if a resistor is 0 ohms can it still be considered a resistor?
You could discharge the capacitor with a suitable resistor and some test leads. Everything still has a resistance even a piece of wire. A 0 ohm resistor will still have a resistance and tolerance bit they are often used as links or fuses.
I had been thinking that too. The only other explanation I could think is that perhaps it was showing E0 because he was using the wrong pans? and it got damaged in transit?🤷♂️
Identifying components on the silk screen, now that's rare to see. Good observations lad. TY for the video although I was hoping there was a hint at my own problem. Two hobs show E4 fault and the other one works normally. Ideas?
Possibly, I just had a look at the video again, it seems that it's a wire jumper marked J10 I think on the other side of the board. Thanks for commenting, I've heard of your channel before 🙂👍
When you said this video was for entertainment purposes I started looking forward to loud explosions, the letting out of magic smoke and "supersolderer" swinging down a rope brandishing a soldering iron (lead free) in one hand and a pack of R0 surface mount resistors in the other. I think you should get a better script writer, because an easy fix and the soothing appearance of a pan of water heating up don't quite hack it.
I usually put the "entertainment purposes" disclaimer at the start if it's a mains powered device and there is a risk of someone electrocuting themselves. Yes this one was an easy fix, the thing is when you buy stuff faulty from eBay, you never know what the problem is until you take it apart.
Agree, this seemed more like it had been dropped (mechanical damage). I had some bad dry joints where they got hot / burnt the board on the solar inverter I repaired a while back.
@@BuyitFixit I see so many single sided boards that develop solder fractures. Plated through hole boards are way more reliable (the plated hole makes it mechanically sound), but the extra cost is more than the mass manufacturers want to spend.
That was terrible...hardly even whetted my DIY ego Mick. 22 minutes tch tch. You'll need to add another repair for the next one Lol. Brilliant and easy :)
I did a review on it a few videos back against the FLIR camera I repaired. It's the xinfrared p2 pro. There's a non affiliate link in the video description (I don't make anything from a sale).
Many of those desktop induction hobs have very similar circuit for power section. Control circuit varies between models and manufactures. Usually power triac breaks and sometimes a zener diode near that triac and not so often the rectifier bridge. I have fixed all my three single induction hobs and every one of them had broken triak and some zener and rectifier bridge.
I'm still watching @ 7:15 and I think I spot a cracked Capacitor (the lower left one). Edit: nice fix and apparantly no crack in the capacitor :) Do you have 3 Phase power for electric cooking in the UK ? We have so a 4 -pit Induction plate can together consume more than the one phase limit of 3680 A max (16 A x 230 V)
Another great diagnosis , in a year or so you could open your own store in town with all the NON working ebay buy's ..... JK .... Take Care Mon Ami ....
I think it's an amscope trinocular clone. I bought it used. If you check out the video I did on the Adonstar microscope I compare that to the one I'm using and show the stand and camera I'm using.
How far do stoves like these radiate radio interference to a mediumwave receiver? Isn't it dangerous to bring a pocket computer with camera so close to it?
Probably a UK thing, we call it a HOB and not a Cooktop and an Oven not a Stove. Like a Gas Hob or an Electric Oven, or if it's stand alone combined oven and hob it's usually called a cooker.
@@BuyitFixit i am in US and the stove are the burners on top. The oven is inside. Only thing can think of for cooker might be crock pot slow cooker maybe.
Same here 🙂 I use it on the camera and microscope (have to switch sources) but it's slightly off to the side of where I'm working, so it's a bit awkward to keep looking at it when trying to record what's directly in front of you. Like when the meter was out of shot 😂😂👍
if only we had a way to remove the child lock, that always is positioned at a place where it accidently is activated. i never use child lock anyway. i have no children. until now i have glued a small piece off cork on top off the annoying button.
We have a one that's built into the counter top and I know exactly what you mean. I've often just placed a pan on the top of it or a baking tray, only to hear it going beep...beep...beep... a couple of minutes later 😂😂
Think of an induction coil as a light bulb the wire in the coil has similar resistance when you pass current through it, It generates heat and glows which is why you see some cookers with glowing rings under the glass, This is how it works and why the technology is so old.
That is not how it works, infact under ideal conditions the copper coil stays cold. It works by inducing a changing magnetic field into the pan at like he stated circa 25kHz. If it was resistive heating it would work on aluminium pans also
Really? Come off it Paul. I think anyone with two brain cells knows that only works if your standing in some salty water and holding an earthed radiator 😂😂😂😂
![Faulty ASUS Gaming Router [RT-AC86U] | Can I FIX It?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pNDlRE5wuFY/mqdefault.jpg)
I have repaired a number of built in induction stoves with this same issue. I put it down to the same effect the high frequency of CRT flyback transformers had on cracking solder connections with micro vibrations over time.
Interesting, I think this unit had been dropped or damaged in shipping looking at the bottom of it. Thanks for commenting 👍
@@BuyitFixit
Unleaded solder is known to be more susceptible to dry joints, although high frequency/high power usage through leaded solder resulted in similar failure given more time. Possibly the mode of failure was already mature and the drop just finished it off.
@@v8snail Could well be the case.
Error E0 is shown when non-induction cookware is used. To test a pan use a magnet. If the pan is non-magnetic it will cause the E0 error. Nice fix! Cheers
Thanks 👍
Nice work! Just goes to show how important visual inspection is when starting a repair - can save lots of head scratching. Thanks for another really interesting and informative video.
Cheers 👍
The E0 is normally thrown by these hobs when someone tries to use a pan that is not suitable for induction hobs, eg aluminium. Good to see the hob also had a genuine fault. Well done for spotting it that wasn't easy to see
Thanks 🙂👍
I saw such error in the past when incompatible induction pans where used, not every one is working. Or to small ones.
I have been a Ham since 1963, a graduate, hands on EE for 42 years designing power electronics, in retirement for 14 years........electronics troubleshooting is an art which cannot be taught in school............. if someone wanted to teach it they could use your videos as a "textbook".......the only thing would do differently would be to start off with the microscope.......but hindsight is always 20/20........great work...... 73 and keep them coming.......Mike K1FNX near Boston
Thanks Michael 👍
I have heard of you experts. 😉 😍👍 I worked for RWI (and iRobot, who bought them) and I built the (iRobot) B21R, B14R and the CoWorker. Also the Pioneer (now Activerobots; formerly Activemedia) and did work on the Packbot. I know you know of them. They were in Sommerville when they bought RWI (Jaffrey, NH) and eventually moved us to Milford, NH and then we were gone. (2004-05ish) 😆😊 (iRobot was "IS Robotics" up until c:1997).
I admire your courage - you just try fixing things that other never would consider to do. Congrats. Easy fix and nice working hob.
Thanks, much appreciated. Yes I'll have a try at anything pretty much 😂😂
That would fit lovely on my bedside table.
Nice rare easy fix John.
I bought a faulty battery/mains Polaroid DAB2/FM/BT stero radio on ebay £8.00 inc del
Mint condition .
Same fault. . cracked solder joint on positive leg of DC 5v input socket.
Fixed in 5 mins.
I use it in the kitchen whilst cooking.Great sound great price.
Thanks for the free entertainment, glad to see the growth of your channel.
Thanks John, good job on fixing the radio 🙂👍
Thank you for showing us this video. I, to, was curious about the inside of induction cook tops. And now we know. Glad it was an easy fix.
You're very welcome, and thank you too for watching 🙂👍
Great forensics Mick, seeing that crack I thought there would be something disturbed inside. I have been binge watching all your earlier videos, great entertainment, truly a man of many talents 😀 thanks Mick.
Thanks Mike. Appreciate the feedback 🙂👍
@@BuyitFixit and you didn't check the other board :? anyway, maybe a small follow vid if you can spot differences between the 2 power boards, since 1 is 1.2kW and the other is 1kW. Is it set in firmware or with some resistors?
I think both of the main boards are the same, and it's a setting on the front panel boards. They had markings of left and right yet both looked the same.
Yeah, that crack was a classic giveaway that this thing had been physically disturbed. This kind of broken joint is classic for such cases.
Often hard to spot unless from a side-angle.
I just got one from ikea works brilliantly easy to control better then our electric cooker halogen hob, safer as well as you can touch the induction hob nearly straight after you’ve cooked on it
Brilliant fix mate loved it thanks 😊
Cheers Cucumber Man. Yes I upgraded the one in our kitchen about a year back. It too was a halogen, I like the induction a lot better however I did notice our knives and forks (in a drawer directly under it) seem to get quite warm when it's been used for a long time) not sure if from the induction or from the fan that blows into the drawer from the unit 🤷♂️
@@BuyitFixit hmmm that’s interesting I will keep an eye on hours thanks Mick
The AT010 is the control for the temperature sensor. Good bit of detective work. I missed that solder joint.
Cheers 👍🙂
Good work! A slight correction to your narrative. Eddy currents play a very insignificant role in the functioning of an induction heater. If it was not so aluminium or copper cookware would have worked better than iron one as eddy currents in those are bigger. No, the real reason induction heaters work so well with iron is that a quick reorientation of the magnetic domains in a ferromagnetic object (eg a steel pot) under the influence of an external high frequency magnetic field is what causes the heating up. That is why it works with thin objects like a bottom of a pot. Eddy current require a thick mass to work more or less efficiently.
Thank you, and thanks for the explanation 👍
Great fault finding and repair.
Thanks 👍
Great video Mick.
Thanks Vince 👍
Good find. Glad you reflowed the other two legs as there might be some tension built up in those too from the drop.
Most of my bad solder joints have been a lot harder to catch, although there are sometimes some telltale signs like dull looking solder and sometimes you can see a very thin black ring in the solder. I often just reflow all large, mechanically mounted, and pin headers as a matter of course these days.
Yep, had my fair few of dry joints over the years😂😂. Especially when high currents are involved. Like on the solar inverter repair I did.
@@BuyitFixit Best one for me was an original Asteroids arcade cabinet I got for $50. Loads of dry joints on the deflection board, but after a full reflow it was up and running. It's the pride of my collection now.
@@TheRealBobHickman Nice. I remember asteroids well. I've worked on a star wars back in the day, and I've still got a box full of boards kicking about. One is a Taito Invaders Part II , might dig it out sometime and have a go at repairing it.
@@BuyitFixit Pretty sure the invaders boards output composite monochrome that you can just plug into a TV (Well, an old TV).
Normally the sockets are suspect on those boards since they are single wipe and degrade over the years
Great job and as always with spares or repairs they always just stop working just sitting on the counter top 😅 I really thought there would be a lot of things inside those induction cookers surprised to see how little is used to make them work
Yes, me too 👍
Well discovered (despite the cracked case being on the opposite side) and remedied. Sorry to hear that you only have one (mark 1) eyeball, you may be able to find another on flea.
Thanks Ralph, yeah I'll have to keep an eye out 😂😂😂😂
Very nice job. The power of observation is the best. 👍👍
Thanks 👍
thank for showing how power goes thru board us new guys learn......... how stuff works
Thanks for commenting, and glad you found it useful 👍
Great fix.
Had one fixed a while ago in the repaircafe. They told me that water had been spilled on it. It turned out that that this had caused that a track had burned away.
Could fix it with a piece of thick copper wire.
Thanks Diane, yes I did something similar with the solar inverter repair video a few months back. Then had fun when the company wouldn't give me a service password....good job I can disassemble software too 😂😂I never got a reply back from them after I sent them the passwords for my units 😂😂 I did a video on that too 🙂
Another sterling lesson in fault finding mick, thanks again. 🤗🤗
You're very welcome Fred, and thanks for commenting 🙂👍
Good to see a nice separation cut out between the low and high voltage on the board
Yes I noticed on the small switch mode too 🙂👍
GOOD FIND! (yes, I had to yell that:) p.s. It might be a idea to drill two small holes on ether end of that crack. Or heat stitch it together a bit.. Thank you for the ride along.
..and thank you for the tips! 🙂👍
Nice work when you can get it ! love the old picture there, great fun but technically spot on !!....cheers.
Thanks 👍
I had a similar problem but changed pan and it work a treat
great video mick still waiting for the commodore 64 videos to come up all the best and enjoy your weekend
Thanks, it's on the to do list. I've got a few things to get through. I've even got a faulty arcade Space Invaders Pt II board ,made by Taito somewhere..
Very good educational video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it 👍🙂
You DO have the luck of the Irish - you seem to choose things on Ebay that have simple faults! (Or do you just not post the ones that you can't fix 🙂🙂🙂) Congrats on a great rescue!
Thanks 👍I've got a couple of "stubborn" items still here, but it's normally down to parts availability. I didn't have much luck with the Cricut machine for instance but it was just too much work, and it still wouldn't have worked due to being deactivated...
Fair enough! But it seems to me you're way ahead with your winners over your losers 🙂 Keep up the brilliant channel, please? @@BuyitFixit
Thanks 🙂👍
Your a Genius. Can I send you some of my Milwaukee tools that are broken. All electrical issues. Cheers Kev
I'm not a genius, I'm a mad man! (they say there's a fine line between them) 😂😂😂 What have you got that's broken? are you in the UK?
@@BuyitFixit Yes buddy I’m in west wales. I’ve got a M18 Hammer Drill. M18 skill Saw and a M12 caulking gun. All possible electrical faults. If I can get them working I’ll give them to the apprentice. Great tools. Just need a bit of fixing
Nice find Mick, well done, gold star for you ⭐
Thanks 👍
Great job. What type of solder did you use in this fix? Thanks
Just normal leaded 60/40 solder. I'm not a fan of the unleaded solder as it's much more brittle and needs more heat.
Excellent work, as always. Nice simple fix, for once.
However, having ignored your disclaimer and verbal warning I find myself sitting here typing this comment while my hair, well what's left of my hair, is standing on end, my face covered in black soot, my heart racing at 200 bpm, my eyesight blurred, so forgive any spelling mistakes, and the tips of my fingers are burnt and tingling. Also, my tongue is slightly burned and swollen as I licked a capacitor or two to see if they were charged or not. Sad to say they were charged...🤣🤣🤣⚡⚡⚡
😂😂😂Funny story, when I was a kid (around 6 year old) I ended up falling over a wire, and it came out of the thing it was plugged into. I touched both ends when trying to put the wire back in 😂😂, and I remember a warm feeling and shaking. My mother came to see what was going on as the lights went off and found me sat in a heap with rather black fingers(True story)
@@BuyitFixit 🤣🤣🤣
As a kid, around 10, I was probing a transformer, with a multimeter, in a radio that wasn't working. Of course idiot here had left it plugged in so when my had slipped on one of the probes 240 volts AC jumped up and bit me.
Lesson learned, electricity cause pain, electricity bad... 🤣 🤣
@@generaldisarray 😂😂😂😂
Great spotting of the broken solder joint. What component/function had the broken solder connection?
It's the output from the power switching transistor that goes to the main inductor coil.
Good catch! That fix was easier than working with those damn meter leads. lol Not much in that cook top, I have been inside some older ones and they are chock full of big caps, IGBTs and all sorts of stuff. Like comparing the insides of an old plasma TV vs a TV today. Actually glad plasmas fell out of favor. Such a pain to narrow down what board is the culprit sometimes. Let alone what is wrong on that board.
Yeah plasmas were a bit of a nightmare. I remember they had only been out a couple of years and I paid £30 for faulty 50" Samsung one from the local recycling place. It cost me £50 for a new Y-SUS board, and £10 for a remote, so £90 all in. To a used one at the time would have been at least £300! so I got a bargain.
@@BuyitFixit Yeah, great deal for sure!!! The one good thing with the plasmas was the resale of the remaining good boards inside if it wasn't worth fixing. Now, everything on one board.
I haven't looked at TV's for a while, last time I did they were usually a PSU and a separate logic board. Are most only 1 board now?
@@BuyitFixit Some have the external PSU, like a laptop and some are all in one or like you said, one PSU and one logic board. But, I haven't been in many TVs the last few years myself. Once they got down from a few boards to one I kinda lost interest. Plus moved countries and lots more going on aside that.
Yea thats pretty much how they work as you explained. And fyi if you remove the secondary of a microwave oven transformer and place it on a cooktop and turn it on it will make some pretty big arcs and produce enough of a current and voltage to unalive you.. i tested that theory if it would arc like the transformers do and pretty much yep.. except they have so much potential they will arc through the glass to the coil..
Interesting. I've got a couple of microwave transformers kicking about but I don't think I'll be giving it a go 😂😂😂👍
Nice fault finding and fix :) Must've suffered quite hard hit.
Thanks Mr JSV👍 Yes it looks like it took a bit of a hit, or dropped possibly.
Another great video thanks for sharing yoir work
Does bring back some menories of my days repsiring electrinjc stuff from TVs to hifi sysyems to washing machines or anything eith a plug i used to go around electrinic repair shops collecting TVs and VCRs back in the day even trips to the local dump pick up electronic stuff raiding skips this was back when i was in my late teens early 20s absolutely loved it and made a killing in the process tho my father wasnt to happy with the shed and even the loft being ram oacked full of spares and junk haha but beeen living abroad since 2008 and been out kf the repair jobs jjst eo the odd laptop / cimputer here and there
As for induction hobs was quite surpised how little was in that unit
I have an induction hob ( single ) and swear by it very useful cooks quick and cheaper to run compared to using gas think mine is almost 15yrs old now has a cracked surface still works just have to be careful no fluids het onto it and leak through the crack
Even get asked by others in my building ehy is it i can cook rice faster than they can yes this thing cooks rice in half the time than their rice cooker
Thanks 👍I too jused to get bits and bobs from our local recycling places or I've even picked up stuff that people just left outside. Most of the time it was pretty simple to repair it too!
What a nice easy refllow fix!
Thanks 👍🙂
Hi, enjoyed your video, cheers 👍. Given the risks of discharge from the capacitors can you tell us what you do to mitigate the risk?
Excuse my ignorance but if a resistor is 0 ohms can it still be considered a resistor?
You could discharge the capacitor with a suitable resistor and some test leads. Everything still has a resistance even a piece of wire. A 0 ohm resistor will still have a resistance and tolerance bit they are often used as links or fuses.
Very nice repair - I wonder why the seller didn't mention that it appeared to have been dropped ........ ?
I had been thinking that too. The only other explanation I could think is that perhaps it was showing E0 because he was using the wrong pans? and it got damaged in transit?🤷♂️
Identifying components on the silk screen, now that's rare to see. Good observations lad. TY for the video although I was hoping there was a hint at my own problem. Two hobs show E4 fault and the other one works normally. Ideas?
Thanks👍, a few people mentioned in the comments about the cookware can cause E4 it means it can't detect the pan.
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for your reply, I will look into it.
Was that another dry joint on the through-hole part at 14:21 above the IC?
Possibly, I just had a look at the video again, it seems that it's a wire jumper marked J10 I think on the other side of the board. Thanks for commenting, I've heard of your channel before 🙂👍
What do you do with all the stuff you fix, do you keep it or sell it on?
I've got pretty much all of it still, but had been thinking of selling some stuff to make some room 😂😂
When you said this video was for entertainment purposes I started looking forward to loud explosions, the letting out of magic smoke and "supersolderer" swinging down a rope brandishing a soldering iron (lead free) in one hand and a pack of R0 surface mount resistors in the other. I think you should get a better script writer, because an easy fix and the soothing appearance of a pan of water heating up don't quite hack it.
I usually put the "entertainment purposes" disclaimer at the start if it's a mains powered device and there is a risk of someone electrocuting themselves. Yes this one was an easy fix, the thing is when you buy stuff faulty from eBay, you never know what the problem is until you take it apart.
Amazing video
Thanks so much! 👍
With any type of circuit board, it's always worth checking for cracked joints on connectors, heavy components or ones that get hot.
Agree, this seemed more like it had been dropped (mechanical damage). I had some bad dry joints where they got hot / burnt the board on the solar inverter I repaired a while back.
@@BuyitFixit I see so many single sided boards that develop solder fractures. Plated through hole boards are way more reliable (the plated hole makes it mechanically sound), but the extra cost is more than the mass manufacturers want to spend.
Excellent 😊
Thanks 😊
Well spotted on that joint
Thanks Chris👍. I'm just editing a video on another induction device, this one had quite a few blown parts...
That was terrible...hardly even whetted my DIY ego Mick. 22 minutes tch tch. You'll need to add another repair for the next one Lol. Brilliant and easy :)
😂😂😂
Nice one.
Thanks 👍
Very nice video
Thanks mate 👍
Bet that made your day😀
Yes, nice when it's an easy fix 🙂
Hah. "There are no high voltages in here, currently." 😁
😂😂😂
Hi mate, no disrespect but it’s time for a decent set of test leads. Invest in some probemaster ones. They are gold plated and nice and sharp.
None taken 🙂Yes I think these might be on the way out. I'll check out the leads you suggested. Thanks 👍
What do you do with all the electronic things you fix?
Most of the stuff I've still got 😂😂😂I need to have a clear out...
amazing
Thank you! Cheers!
What thermal camera module do you use in this video give a link to that thank you 🎉
I did a review on it a few videos back against the FLIR camera I repaired. It's the xinfrared p2 pro. There's a non affiliate link in the video description (I don't make anything from a sale).
I need your turbo in my real Life to Unscrew the screws 😂
Yes, who needs an electric screwdriver when I've got TurboHands(TM) 🤣🤣
I have some Lidl induction hobs that throw this error when they can't cool properly. Seems like the same design is on numerous of these.
Hmm interesting, I didn't know Lidl did them, then again they do all kinds of stuff.
Many of those desktop induction hobs have very similar circuit for power section. Control circuit varies between models and manufactures. Usually power triac breaks and sometimes a zener diode near that triac and not so often the rectifier bridge. I have fixed all my three single induction hobs and every one of them had broken triak and some zener and rectifier bridge.
I'm still watching @ 7:15 and I think I spot a cracked Capacitor (the lower left one). Edit: nice fix and apparantly no crack in the capacitor :) Do you have 3 Phase power for electric cooking in the UK ? We have so a 4 -pit Induction plate can together consume more than the one phase limit of 3680 A max (16 A x 230 V)
Thanks 👍Most homes are just single phase, the cooker is usually on its own breaker probably a 32 or 45amp.
@@BuyitFixit OK so that's way more power on a single phase than we can get here
Normally the fuse at the meter is a 60A
@@BuyitFixit ah I see. for a one phase home it's 25A here
Why do we need 3 phase?@@maicod
so it's basically a switch mode power supply configured to drive an inductive load at fairly high frequency, interesting
i hear an upper audio range tone, kinda like a crt, i wonder what frequency this actually runs at and if that's a harmonic
That's pretty much what it seems like to me, although I could be wrong.
@@maebeans Early induction hobs (I'd say mid-2000s) were horribly. Not sure if the hobs have gotten better or my hearing has gotten worse since 😅
Another great diagnosis , in a year or so you could open your own store in town with all the NON working ebay buy's ..... JK .... Take Care Mon Ami ....
Thanks Cajun. You take care too 🙂👍
What microscope you got there, please?
I think it's an amscope trinocular clone. I bought it used. If you check out the video I did on the Adonstar microscope I compare that to the one I'm using and show the stand and camera I'm using.
How far do stoves like these radiate radio interference to a mediumwave receiver? Isn't it dangerous to bring a pocket computer with camera so close to it?
I'm not sure on the RF, yes I wouldn't fancy placing any sensitive electronics near it unless you wanted to cook them 😂😂
Please help my 2000w invector shows red fault light when I connected it to a 100ahm battery
What about the other side, was that the same fix?
The other side was working fine, just the right side that had the fault.
I bet part of the issue is that the seller did not use a pan that was compatible for use on Induction jobs 😂
I was thinking that myself👍
I would have pulled the other card out and resoldered those same connections as well
I didn't think of that at the time. Thanks for sharing 👍
Result!
Indeed 🙂👍
Hey, please, i wish reis with fried chicken and so pepper sauce. How long does it takes?? 🤣
🤣🤣🤣
Hawkeye
Thanks 👍
Never heard of hob. That is weird. That is a burner or portable cooktop/stove. No idea where the word hob comes from.
Probably a UK thing, we call it a HOB and not a Cooktop and an Oven not a Stove. Like a Gas Hob or an Electric Oven, or if it's stand alone combined oven and hob it's usually called a cooker.
@@BuyitFixit i am in US and the stove are the burners on top. The oven is inside. Only thing can think of for cooker might be crock pot slow cooker maybe.
@@james42519the word hob predates the USA ,it was the name given to a shelf on an open fire used for cooking .
Faulty. Amzchef. Dual. lnduction. Job. Error. EO. Can. l. Fix. It. ??
you are cooking with gas now :)
😂😂😂😂👍
He didn't answer me 😭😭😭
I did 🙂
@@BuyitFixit yipiee , the fried chicken done 😍😋😋😋🤣🤣
Yes, delivery is on the way 😂😂😂
My eyes are not very good, but I have a very big screen 🙂
Same here 🙂 I use it on the camera and microscope (have to switch sources) but it's slightly off to the side of where I'm working, so it's a bit awkward to keep looking at it when trying to record what's directly in front of you. Like when the meter was out of shot 😂😂👍
@@BuyitFixit But i was able to read the fine print on your disclaimer just fine 🙂
@@TerryLawrence001 😂😂😂😂
if only we had a way to remove the child lock, that always is positioned at a place where it accidently is activated. i never use child lock anyway. i have no children.
until now i have glued a small piece off cork on top off the annoying button.
We have a one that's built into the counter top and I know exactly what you mean. I've often just placed a pan on the top of it or a baking tray, only to hear it going beep...beep...beep... a couple of minutes later 😂😂
Think of an induction coil as a light bulb the wire in the coil has similar resistance when you pass current through it, It generates heat and glows which is why you see some cookers with glowing rings under the glass, This is how it works and why the technology is so old.
I think that might be a halogen cooker (with the glowing rings) that you're thinking of.
I might be thinking of a heater coil instead like they have in chemistry. Too many subjects in one mind.@@BuyitFixit
That is not how it works, infact under ideal conditions the copper coil stays cold. It works by inducing a changing magnetic field into the pan at like he stated circa 25kHz. If it was resistive heating it would work on aluminium pans also
How about reading through the replies first before you comment because if you did you would see that i was mistaken.@@Phantom-mk4kp
It doesn't magnetise the pan to the hob the magnetic wave passes through it generating heat because most pans are aluminium today.@@Phantom-mk4kp
as its more or less a transmitter does it cause rfi on the ham bands?.
I'm not sure, I guess if the energy was radiated via an antenna, but I think most of the energy is absorbed into the base of the pan.
the fastest way to test for charged caps is too give the underside of the pcb a good lick.
Really? Come off it Paul. I think anyone with two brain cells knows that only works if your standing in some salty water and holding an earthed radiator 😂😂😂😂