I have e-bikes with both types of sensors. I, too, prefer using a torque sensor with the bike providing assistance in proportion to my effort. It feels more natural for someone used to pedaling, but it offers the highest level of control and is the easiest to ride in a group as you can more easily match speed with other riders. For cadence sensors, I prefer when the PAS levels correspond to amounts of power rather than preset speed targets as the latter uses arbitrary power curves with huge peaks at the start and dropping off to zero or nearly zero once the speed is achieved. Think of levels corresponding to amounts of throttle versus preset speed targets. It gives more control, including matching speeds with other riders, and with torquier motors, makes it much less likely for the rider to lose control. You don’t use cruise control with preset speeds to drive a car at low speed. There would be so many more collisions and fender benders if you could, which is why they cut out below a certain speed, to prevent that. The only time I’ve been thrown off an ebike is one using an 80Nm hub motor with a speed-targeting system using a cadence sensor. That’s because the default level one of assistance had a 10mph target, and the bike peaked at 1000W of power starting from a start. I increased the number of levels to 9 from 5 and set level one’s speed target to 4mph so it only has time to reach a peak of 400-500W in PAS 1. Despite that, it’s my least favorite ebike and it gets ridden rarely.
Wow, guys! Thanks for answering my question on class 1 vs. 3. Really gives me more confidence in my purchase. Looking at a Canyon Pathlite. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
We haven't had the chance to review that one yet, but it looks like a great choice! Canyon really nails their design. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, too. Thanks for watching and contributing to our show!
I have e-bikes with both types of sensors.
I, too, prefer using a torque sensor with the bike providing assistance in proportion to my effort. It feels more natural for someone used to pedaling, but it offers the highest level of control and is the easiest to ride in a group as you can more easily match speed with other riders.
For cadence sensors, I prefer when the PAS levels correspond to amounts of power rather than preset speed targets as the latter uses arbitrary power curves with huge peaks at the start and dropping off to zero or nearly zero once the speed is achieved. Think of levels corresponding to amounts of throttle versus preset speed targets. It gives more control, including matching speeds with other riders, and with torquier motors, makes it much less likely for the rider to lose control. You don’t use cruise control with preset speeds to drive a car at low speed. There would be so many more collisions and fender benders if you could, which is why they cut out below a certain speed, to prevent that.
The only time I’ve been thrown off an ebike is one using an 80Nm hub motor with a speed-targeting system using a cadence sensor. That’s because the default level one of assistance had a 10mph target, and the bike peaked at 1000W of power starting from a start. I increased the number of levels to 9 from 5 and set level one’s speed target to 4mph so it only has time to reach a peak of 400-500W in PAS 1. Despite that, it’s my least favorite ebike and it gets ridden rarely.
In the future are you folks going to review different bike seats, Aloha from Makaha Hawaii.
Aloha! Bike seats are something we haven't gotten much into at this point in time, but we may dive in more in the future.
Wow, guys! Thanks for answering my question on class 1 vs. 3. Really gives me more confidence in my purchase. Looking at a Canyon Pathlite. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
We haven't had the chance to review that one yet, but it looks like a great choice! Canyon really nails their design. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you, too. Thanks for watching and contributing to our show!
Isn't class 1 non throttle
Yes, Class 1 e-bikes offer pedal assist up to 20 mph.