I love the creative idea of making the Tee Nuts round. It should be much easier and more accurate doing it on the lathe. Also Just looking at your machine It really looks to be a very robust and versatile machine for its size. it surely must save a lot of space and walking from one machine to the other. I have 2 lathes and 3 milling machines. And at my age walking is not so good for me. Thanks for bringing us into your shop.
When I bought it I was delighted with it. For my small space it's perfect, but I'm starting to dream something for grown people. I am honored for your visit I am honored for your visit and welcome you anytime, my friend Terry.
Guide bushings are always a nice idea when you're only ever going to put the fixture on one table. About your sticky collet issue a couple videos back - ER collets actually snap into the collet nut (the part that screws on) so when you unscrew the nut you pull the collet out at the same time. There's a lip on the inside of the nut that grabs the groove around the thick end of the collet. It takes a little practice to get it in easily, but it's there.
After reading your comment I went to the workshop to try your method. It's unbelievable how easy it is. I received the same comment from other friends, but I was not able to understand how to proceed. Now I understand. It's that simple... God bless you. God bless you all.
@@skwerlz lol i had the problem the otherway around it came with a collet mounted and took me a full day of trying and figuring to find that in one position the collet is able to snap out of the nut and a new one in. but if you dont know it seems like magic no retaining ring or snapring in sight and the bloody collet moves and wiggles freely but wont come out of the nut lol.
@@cornnatron3030 If they protrude above the bed less than the depth of the slots in the rotary table. A bolt though the open slot into the stepped tee nut would locate and clamp in one go.
Great job. The only downside I see with your design is there are only 4 points where the key registers with the bed of your lathe and over time they will probably wear down and create slop. However, the key term is "over time" and they seem pretty easy to make so really not too much of a concern. I like them. Well done.
Looks and sounds good but you need to use another normal T nut to hold the table down, with normal T nuts the job can be done only using 1 T nut instead of 2.
In order for what you say to happen, you should act far beyond what is necessary for responsible and normal use. The role of this T-slot rip is to quickly align the rotary table. Even an irresponsible tightening of the srews I don't think would produce any destructive effect. The only disadvantage that I think could exist after many uses could be the wear of the t slot on the edges, but I don't think so either because they are made of steel and not cast iron like milling table. But it is possible that I am wrong. Time will surely show us if it is a good idea or a bad idea. Thank you very much for your comment !
I think I will use them for many years because I don't use this tool every day. For those like me, I think it is a quick and good alternative. Thank you very much for your comment !
Not sure if you know, depth of cut is good but feed rate too slow for a good finish (around six minutes on video) It may also cause tool bits to wear faster than expected? It's most likely why finish looks so rough, carbide doesn't like low feed or rpm Normal rate for finishing is around 0.004" per revolution, (about 0.1mm per rev), depending on tip radius of tool. (0.7~1mm) Larger tip radius can have a higher feed rate. Roughing out feed rate uses whatever machine HP is available, larger hobby machines can usually manage 0.5mm @ 2.0 mm DOC but the 5~10mm DOC needs high power industrial machinery. Totally agree about switching belts over pulley's, I have two speeds for most turning, (too slow and too fast 😁)
@@1crazypj It is very valuable information that I certainly do not claim to know. With the same rpm I "finish" the part precisely because I hate changing the gears in the pulleys. What surprises me is that some types of steel look better than others after I turn them. Unfortunately, my lathe is very limited. So do I. Thank you very much for your comment ! I will use your advices.
I will use occasionally. For intensive use, it does not hold up like the others. It's just a simple and quick alternative for me and people like me. Thank you very much for your comment !
Another nice job from you and definitely worth the effort. The title is a bit misleading though. Those things serve as precision guide bushings not T-Nuts. Wakodahatchee Chris
On the site that sells rotary table there are also these ”T-slot alignment keys” that they do not include in the package. Sold separately. They have the same role as the ones made by me, only they are not round but rectangular as we all know them. I borrowed the name from there. I hope it is not the wrong name. Thanks Chris for the comment. It' always a pleasure.
@@JIMMY916 Sorry about that Jimmy. My old eyes read T-Nuts but I now see it reads T-Slot Keys. Besides you shouldn't concern yourself too much about some of my comments. After all, I'm damn near as senile as Joe Biden. Fortunately, my old age hasn't contracted Joe's lifetime habit of lying!
What is the brand and model on your lathe/mill combo machine? I have one which was gifted to me and is similar but got it without a manual. There are no manufacturer data plates on it.
DAMATOMACCHINE DM 520. It is an italian product. They have their own website well set up. My model is from 2016. If your model is identical to mine, I can help you with the manual. I know I saved it somewere , but I honestly never looked at it. But surely I can find it.
I love the creative idea of making the Tee Nuts round. It should be much easier and more accurate doing it on the lathe. Also Just looking at your machine It really looks to be a very robust and versatile machine for its size. it surely must save a lot of space and walking from one machine to the other. I have 2 lathes and 3 milling machines. And at my age walking is not so good for me. Thanks for bringing us into your shop.
When I bought it I was delighted with it. For my small space it's perfect, but I'm starting to dream something for grown people. I am honored for your visit I am honored for your visit and welcome you anytime, my friend Terry.
@@JIMMY916 I have been subscribed to your channel for a while now. I will surely return because of your content and personality.
It is a honor for me and I am proud that you are here.
Guide bushings are always a nice idea when you're only ever going to put the fixture on one table.
About your sticky collet issue a couple videos back - ER collets actually snap into the collet nut (the part that screws on) so when you unscrew the nut you pull the collet out at the same time. There's a lip on the inside of the nut that grabs the groove around the thick end of the collet. It takes a little practice to get it in easily, but it's there.
After reading your comment I went to the workshop to try your method. It's unbelievable how easy it is. I received the same comment from other friends, but I was not able to understand how to proceed. Now I understand. It's that simple... God bless you. God bless you all.
@@JIMMY916 No problem, pretty much everyone has to be shown the first time.
@@skwerlz lol i had the problem the otherway around it came with a collet mounted and took me a full day of trying and figuring to find that in one position the collet is able to snap out of the nut and a new one in. but if you dont know it seems like magic no retaining ring or snapring in sight and the bloody collet moves and wiggles freely but wont come out of the nut lol.
Taller tee nuts with a 14mm step protruding above the bed to locate in the tenon slot, one piece for two jobs.
@@machinists-shortcuts Thank you for your comment!
i like the idea but how would you go about to tighten them ?
@@cornnatron3030 Is only for aligning, not for tighten. Thank you for your comment!
@@cornnatron3030 If they protrude above the bed less than the depth of the slots in the rotary table. A bolt though the open slot into the stepped tee nut would locate and clamp in one go.
Great job. The only downside I see with your design is there are only 4 points where the key registers with the bed of your lathe and over time they will probably wear down and create slop. However, the key term is "over time" and they seem pretty easy to make so really not too much of a concern. I like them. Well done.
I will definitely improve everything that will not work properly with the help of your ideas. Thank you very much for your comment !
Looks good to me. Think I will make a few!
I am happy to hear that.
Yay for the round slidy bit, but nay for not putting a bolted on bar for teh T part underneath, so the bolt can be tightened rigidly against the table
Yes. It cannot be done without. Thank you for your comment !
Looks and sounds good but you need to use another normal T nut to hold the table down, with normal T nuts the job can be done only using 1 T nut instead of 2.
In order for what you say to happen, you should act far beyond what is necessary for responsible and normal use. The role of this T-slot rip is to quickly align the rotary table. Even an irresponsible tightening of the srews I don't think would produce any destructive effect. The only disadvantage that I think could exist after many uses could be the wear of the t slot on the edges, but I don't think so either because they are made of steel and not cast iron like milling table. But it is possible that I am wrong. Time will surely show us if it is a good idea or a bad idea. Thank you very much for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 Looks like you are referring to my original comment before I edited it after I realized you were making alignment keys and not T nuts.
Thank you !
It should work OK but can wear out sooner than rectangle. Usually it was made of hardened steel finished by a grinder.
I think I will use them for many years because I don't use this tool every day. For those like me, I think it is a quick and good alternative. Thank you very much for your comment !
Not sure if you know, depth of cut is good but feed rate too slow for a good finish (around six minutes on video)
It may also cause tool bits to wear faster than expected?
It's most likely why finish looks so rough, carbide doesn't like low feed or rpm
Normal rate for finishing is around 0.004" per revolution, (about 0.1mm per rev), depending on tip radius of tool. (0.7~1mm)
Larger tip radius can have a higher feed rate.
Roughing out feed rate uses whatever machine HP is available, larger hobby machines can usually manage 0.5mm @ 2.0 mm DOC but the 5~10mm DOC needs high power industrial machinery.
Totally agree about switching belts over pulley's, I have two speeds for most turning, (too slow and too fast 😁)
@@1crazypj It is very valuable information that I certainly do not claim to know. With the same rpm I "finish" the part precisely because I hate changing the gears in the pulleys. What surprises me is that some types of steel look better than others after I turn them. Unfortunately, my lathe is very limited. So do I. Thank you very much for your comment ! I will use your advices.
Nice job but square ones will stay true longer.
But if it works for you it is all good
I will use occasionally. For intensive use, it does not hold up like the others. It's just a simple and quick alternative for me and people like me. Thank you very much for your comment !
Another nice job from you and definitely worth the effort. The title is a bit misleading though. Those things serve as precision guide bushings not T-Nuts.
Wakodahatchee Chris
On the site that sells rotary table there are also these ”T-slot alignment keys” that they do not include in the package. Sold separately. They have the same role as the ones made by me, only they are not round but rectangular as we all know them. I borrowed the name from there. I hope it is not the wrong name. Thanks Chris for the comment. It' always a pleasure.
@@JIMMY916 Sorry about that Jimmy. My old eyes read T-Nuts but I now see it reads T-Slot Keys. Besides you shouldn't concern yourself too much about some of my comments. After all, I'm damn near as senile as Joe Biden. Fortunately, my old age hasn't contracted Joe's lifetime habit of lying!
You may find that the round T nut turns inside the slot when you try to tighten it. It has happened to me.
If they are just for alignment they will work just fine for a while but the sides will wear faster than square.
I fixed it with a bronze hammer just to prevent this from happening. At least that's what I hope. Not to move. Thank you very much for your comment !
They are just for alignment. I hope it holds up.
What is the brand and model on your lathe/mill combo machine? I have one which was gifted to me and is similar but got it without a manual. There are no manufacturer data plates on it.
DAMATOMACCHINE DM 520. It is an italian product. They have their own website well set up. My model is from 2016. If your model is identical to mine, I can help you with the manual. I know I saved it somewere , but I honestly never looked at it. But surely I can find it.
@@JIMMY916 It isn't exactly like yours, but so close my jaw dropped when I saw your video.