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Made by ME 4
Приєднався 18 бер 2015
I have been passionate about objects produced in the workshop, metal products made on lathe and mill, welding and plasma-cutter and many more, since I was a child. I accept any technical challenge and I believe that I have the necessary skills to do things well. Some of my utensils are MADE BY ME and many others I will build from now one. My videos contain and will contain only products that will be useful in my activities and by presenting them I hope to be useful to others. Thank you for your time.
Відео
SIMPLE IMPROVEMENT
Переглядів 6 тис.21 день тому
Turn and mill simple accessories for milling machine. DIY
Metal lathe upgrades
Переглядів 7 тис.28 днів тому
A tool for sanding metal parts after turning on lathe.
DRILL and CENTER at the same time. This tool exist !
Переглядів 9 тис.Місяць тому
A part that needs to be centered and drilled for turning on the lathe and quick mounting of the live center. This tool does that.
T-SLOT KEYS different and simplest to make.
Переглядів 4,6 тис.Місяць тому
I made T-SLOT fixture keys for my rotary table. Alignment with milling machine is very easy now. You just need a lathe and turning. And a drill.
BULL NOSE a tool for lathe. DIY
Переглядів 20 тис.Місяць тому
Is a center part tool for large pipes and bushing in the lathe, for turning without deviations.
NO MISTAKE ALLOWED. New lathe chuck turned
Переглядів 10 тис.Місяць тому
A lathe chuck that does not fit and turning the flange is not possible. But I managed to mount it.
EASY ALIGNMENT from now on
Переглядів 4,4 тис.Місяць тому
Two devices that must be aligned on the milling table. I show you how I did it using only a lathe and a drill.
My challenge to make -MORSE TAPERS-
Переглядів 8 тис.Місяць тому
Two morse tapers on the same spindle to connect a chuck to a milling machine or lathe. The challenge is to manage to center.
NO WASTE for my LATHE
Переглядів 6 тис.2 місяці тому
A rusty LIVE CENTER for turning it is repaired and adapted to my workshop lathe.
This TOOL makes A BEST SURFACE on the lathe. DIY
Переглядів 79 тис.2 місяці тому
How to make a simple tool that levels by simply turning the part on the lathe and removes the marks left by the lathe knive.
CENTERING the MILLING TABLE in a few seconds
Переглядів 4 тис.2 місяці тому
If you do not have an indicator dial or you are in hurry, you can center the ROTARY TABLE on the milling machine with a very simple tool. There is not much to turn on the lathe.
HOW TO MAKE A DIE on your workshop. DIY
Переглядів 5 тис.2 місяці тому
Turning and milling from scratch a DIE for manual threading. I managed to make one.
FRICTION SUPPORT for the LATHE. DIY
Переглядів 7 тис.2 місяці тому
Supporting a part between the centers of the lathe without clamping it in the chuck.
DIE HOLDER IMPROVEMENT for lathe DIY
Переглядів 1,6 тис.3 місяці тому
DIE HOLDER IMPROVEMENT for lathe DIY
Making a threading DIE HOLDER for lathe
Переглядів 1,3 тис.3 місяці тому
Making a threading DIE HOLDER for lathe
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 2
Переглядів 4,4 тис.4 місяці тому
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 2
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 1
Переглядів 3,1 тис.4 місяці тому
Make an AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH pt 1
LATHE BELL PUNCH center finder pt 3
Переглядів 2,7 тис.4 місяці тому
LATHE BELL PUNCH center finder pt 3
BELL PUNCH center finder for lathe DIY pt 1
Переглядів 1,9 тис.4 місяці тому
BELL PUNCH center finder for lathe DIY pt 1
DIY A SQUARE HOLE in a round bar WITHOUT A DRILL
Переглядів 3,6 тис.5 місяців тому
DIY A SQUARE HOLE in a round bar WITHOUT A DRILL
I like the idea. It does have its drawbacks (previous comment). I agree with a little care, it should be faster than other methods. And besides, you practiced your skills and made something useful. Where did you find the bell housing? Or did you make that as well?
Thank you for your appreciation and your comment. No, it's not my idea. It is a tool that I found in an old book for machinists and long forgotten.
I've never seen anyone use the same backplate for multiple chucks. Usually every chuck has it's own backplate which is changed along with the chuck when need be.
That's what I wanted to do too. Thank you for your comment !
i like it from pakistan
Welcome, my friend !
You NEED a Fogbuster type coolant sprayer that doesn't mist. It forms directed fine droplets that only land on the part and cutter. No fog formed at all. I have one real Fogbuster, and there is one other company that makes a pretty direct similar device, SST Lube Cube. I hear they are also very good and equivalent. I am collecting enough parts and pieces to make myself about 4 more of them. I have one on my mill, I want two (one on each side of the spindle). Then I want one my 1440 lathe, and at least one on my band saw. You can make them portable easily enough as they only need about 15psi +/- to run, but who wants to move things around if you don't have to?
Your idea is good and it is not difficult to build. Someone said here that a cold air gun tool is also a healthy and useful choice. Thank you for your comment !
This video shows where he mounted the coolant nozzle perm. he also used a flex line. at the other end you could make the splitter block and attach it to the lathe bed by the head. (sorry list link to first video) ua-cam.com/video/x0m3tHwM54g/v-deo.html
Thank you for your suggestion !
1. I like to see the dog helping in the workshop! 2. It is excellent to see someone using a lathe with only pure skill. No digital readouts and rarely using automatic feed 3. Would you consider making a shield to keep chips, coolant and lube out of the motor?
I am honored by your comment. The fact that you appreciate my work and give me a suggestion to improve my equpment, I will be proud to think that you are my friend. And yes, I will make a shield for the motor. Thank you !
Funny. I have brought a misting system myself.
It's really an improvement, just possibly unhealty. Thank you sir for your comment !
i have seen several setups. one idea i really like an want to try myself is where they made a bracket that bolts to the rear trailing side of the cross slide. then bolt the block to that and go from there. I wonder if you bolted the block to the bed side, used rubber liens for metter flexability and made a small block where the sprayer comes out of and 2 inlets muck liek what you have there and that bolts to the adapter on the cross slide. this way rubber lines flex better and the hard lines bring it from the compressor and oiling to the lathe itself. jsut osme ideas. I love the ideas and work you do bud, please keep it up!!!!
I discover every day that any idea can be improved, without exception. This is something that makes me happy. Thank you Mike for your encouragement and appreciation. It means a lot to me.
You might find that mounting the valve block and outlet to an old cheap magnetic indicator to base may be more convenient for you
Yes, it was an idea, but I had to order a magnetic base and I needed it as soon is possible.Anyway, from the position where it is now, I will not move it. Maybe I won't use it because inhaling the vapors can be dangerous. I just found out from the comments. Thank you for your suggestion !
pretty please uninstall the mister, it is an idea that looks great on paper, but is horrible in reality. I had one as well. the mister puts coolant everywhere, but not in quantity where it is needed. it also puts it into the air and into your lungs, and this stuff is bad for your lungs. i was using koolmist 77, and gave away the 3.8l i had left. koolmist had left a blue sticky residue everywhere. I switched over to another coolant, which is intended as a flood coolant, and use it mostly with a 250ml squeeze bottle. I have changed the spray mister to a dripper, and this is fed from a garden sprayer under pressure. flood cooant really cleans up easy, I just blow dry with compressed air, and maybe a bit a washdown with WD40 afterwards. you need to protect your ways, bott with mist and flood coolant, especially the area under the chuck. I made something from vinyl blinds, dripping into a pan in the back. i blocked off the t-slots in the front and the sides with plugs cut from soft silicone to prevent coolant dripping off there, and only drain towards the back. but please, do not use the mister
I am honestly in a big dilemma. It is a method widely used by experienced machinists. I was so happy that I finally solved one problem but it looks like I ran into another one. It's an issue I honestly hadn't considered until you comments. I didn't think about the risks of inhalig a dangerous substance. It was suggested to me in a comment that the solution might be an external air exhaust system from the spray area. I have something like that but not of great power. Thank you for sharing your experience with us and for your concern.
Yes, unless you are scrupulous about cleaning the machine after using mist will make a sticky mess. In the home shop even using flood coolant is not something I would recommend. In a job shop where the machine is used daily, keeping the coolant from turning into a smelly mess requires constant attention. In the home shop leaving coolant for a week in hot, humid conditions will leave the place smelling bad and a good way to get dermatitis on your hands. If you really need coolant, you might consider a cold air gun. Would be a good project to build on the lathe vs. buying one.
@@JIMMY916 I don't think it is a method widely used (anymore), and I just hope the hobby machinists stop using it asap.
The only drawback is the possible danger of inhaling the vapors. Otherwise, the method was good, especially for the milling machine where the chips were removed by pressure and the filming became explicit for the viewers. That's why many youtubers use this system. Thank you for your comment !
I am grateful for your comment. I don't know what solution I bought, but it is surprising to me that it is odorless. Next week I will read the label myself :) I had no idea about the cold air gun. Thanks for the suggestion and I will probably build one.
G’day mate now that is something that I need those blue chips hurt, good job well thought out kind regards John
Thank you John ! Nice words as usual.
A link got censored by UA-cam Website was practicalmachinist Forum thread using-a-mist-coolant-system-or-not Somebody suggested an air pressure regulator. Helps prevent filling whole shop with mist. Other interesting comments too. Google query i found it with venturi machine shop coolant pump -vacuum -fullshop -mixer
What makes me think is how dangerous it is to inhale these vapors. I didn't think about it until after I read a friend's comment. And yes Edward, UA-cam has rules that are sometimes more difficult to understand.
I wonder how safe it is to stand in a cloud of aerosolized lubricant?
WOW. I really didn't think of that. Maybe someone who has been using something like this for a long time can answer us. This is indeed a good question. Thank you !
Technically not good but with the exception of factory’s with a large numbers of CNC machine centers with mist collection nobody I know worries about it unless you get some kind of allergic reaction .
There are several types of emulsion. Are they all identical or do they contain different components ? I don't think that the manufacturer's labels specify whether or not it is dangerous for health. This information should be mandatory.
@@JIMMY916just in general i've found machining in a small space impacts air quality significantly. I have a bunch of air monitors from work that track particulates, various chemicals, vapours etc. Doing basic machining with cutting oils, lubricants etc set off a few alarms. That was without coolant running. Might just have been because i'm crap at machining. No idea if high particulates and chemicals in the air are much of a health issue but i prefer to have decent air flow through my workshop just to be safe. Set up a cheap extractor fan and air quality quickly improved.
Thank you for the information. My workshop is a little bigger than a matchbox and that is quite a problem for ventilation. I will look into this very carefully and use the solution you provided. But I seriously wonder if it's worth the risk. However, I have an amateur consolation.. I rarely work compared to those who have this job and work daily. Thank you for your time !
All you need to do is put the fluid in on the valve port and the air on the other port. The air flow across the fluid port creates the venturi to draw the fluid into themair stream. I would move the valve to the air input and just direct connect the fluid as fluid flow can be adjusted by air flow
Yes. There are many methods. I think the liquid pan can be mounted above the level. Gravity would help a lot. Thank you for your comment !
@@JIMMY916No, it will siphon all of your liquid.
I was thinking about the help of gravity but with regulation of the flow through the tap. To no longer depend on air absorption. The only problem would be that I inadvertently forget to turn off the liquid valve when stopping work. It would be an unpleasant surprise next day.
I’m going though this process right now. The air pressure to Venturi the coolant out the tank is higher than I want. So I’ve pressurised the coolant tank using 3D printed parts and run a tap on the coolant line. Still in building phase but hopeful I can run much lower psi to achieve the same result. Plus have independent coolant and air taps.
Yes, it is a system that can be improved very easily. Thank you for your comment !
I just put a magnet on mine so I can move it anywhere.
So did I, first job, works a treat.
Thats a good idea.
I needed something like this, especially since my hobby machines are a bit outdated. Thank you for your comment !
So I not 100% sure but unless the block is bored straight through it should use compressed air to lift coolant on one side using the venturi . It looks a lot like the ones we have at work.
I think an improvement would be to move the liquid container above the level. Thank you for your comment !
Nice work Bud! Those holes look pretty straight now!
@@clintchapman4319 Thank you very much !
Without "tools"
I was referring to special tools for such things (like broach). Thank you for your comment !
Love it!
@@dagorithe Thank you !
Good job. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
@@homemadetools Thank you!
lol thats crazy nice job
@@IsZomg Thank you :))
Nice video and presentation. What now? Mount a 0.01mm indicator on the head chuck and sweep the circumference at the bull nose for stock concentricity.
@@philoso377 I think that would be a bit much for me, but thanks for the idea :))
@@JIMMY916”a bit much..” ?
I mean, one more boring moment will put everyone to sleep...
@@JIMMY916you may reply your update to this comment about the run out in the bull nose relative to the head spinal.
I cut such thick aluminum rods without problems with 12 tpi bandsaws, but a bit coarser, say 8 tpi, is better. You don't need too high sawing pressure. You do need a sharp sawblade and a coolant/lubricant. Instead of the expensive and dirty WD40 use alcohol. Regular bio ethanol from the supermarket. Cheap, lubricates sufficiently and cools. And it leaves no traces of grease after evaporation. But the most important thing when using alcohol is that the teeth don't get clogged with that soft aluminum. For the sawing speed I keep the following: Steel 60 meters per minute and aluminum 120-150 meters per minute.
I didn't pay attention to a detail I noticed about my band. Not all teeth are the same size. They are 8 tpi but some are smaller in height than others (factory made). For cutting steel I am very satisfied with the cutting speed, only with aluminum it is difficult. This band was the most expensive on offer. I will try the alcohol method. I didn't know that was an option. Thanks for the info Michel !
@@JIMMY916 That's the vari-tooth design for quickly cutting thought steel, when the surface finish is not that important. Not ideal for aluminium, but it should cut.
I think there are several problems. Every comment I received suggest a fix. Inappropriate cutting band (even if it is 8 tpi), too low speed, pressure adjustment, lack of lubrication. Every advice can improve my situation and my conclusion is that, I will fix all these aspects following your advice. The cutting time depends on many possibly wrong settings that I neglected. I will fix the problems one by one and I hope to succeed. Thank you for the advice.
Try WD40 when cutting aluminum if you have access to it. If you are running 8tpi that should cut just fine. I know there is a feed pressure adjustment on bandsaws, maybe it is set too light? See if you can get soluble oil coolant and flood the blade. I like to put a box or piece of plywood under my bandsaw to catch parts so they don’t get damaged, saves your floor too.
Yes, it has a cut pressure adjustment that I have never adjusted. When I get to the workshop I will increase the pressure. I think that was the problem. God bless you. God bless you all for your help.
Please, don't be grabbing those chips while that chuck is spinning. It's a bad habit.
Yes, I will be more careful. Bad habits are hard to correct. Three months ago I was working with gloves.. Thank you very much for your advice. People like you have corrected many of my mistakes.
@@JIMMY916However it is good to use gloves to remove chips, they will cut you badly.
@@pvtimberfaller Yes, when the chuck is not spinning. I learn my lesson :))
@@pvtimberfaller Needle nosed pliers is best, then you don't forget an take a shortcut and leave gloves on and lose a finger or your hand. Gloves have no place being near a machine of this type
This is a great idea and video. The use of magnets with tools I think is a great idea and time saver. Thanks for sharing.
@@joewhitney4097 Thank you very much for the appreciation ! It means a lot to me.
With plastic you are pretty much screwed. A BIG vacuum might help but everybody I know just puts up with the mess. Heavier cuts and slower spindle speeds helps.
@@pvtimberfaller Yes, true. Unfortunately, I think I got used to it. Thank you !
So Just finished watching your video. At work we have a handheld belt sander (1” wide, about 2’ long) for polishing in the lathe. I have seen some for sale that you can clamp in a tool holder as well, that is what my dad used for finishing rifle barrels.
Can you please give more details ? Or a link where it is for sale ? Thank you !
It was on Alibaba, a machinery company in India. It would be pretty easy to build.
Thanks for another video but I do have a question or two. Since the subject of this video is insuring Tap alignment with the drilled hole I see a glaring contradiction @ 19:20. To remedy this issue on a lathe we don't need a jig to do it. The TailStock's Jacobs Chuck will align the tap for you. Now, when we are at the drill press we have similar tooling. We have another Jacobs chuck in line with the hole you just drilled. The moral of this is ... learn to use your machines (and shop practices) to their fullest abilities before resorting to over engineering the task at hand. JMO Wakodahatchee Chris
I assure you that the filet came out well. Its role is to support a magnet, nothing more And I know that being a long hole and made of aluminum, the tap is self-centering. If i were to redo this piece, I would do it exactly the same way. And so many say that I get involved even when it's not necessary Now it really wasn't necessary even if that's a "contradiction". :)) Thank you Chris for your comment !
@@JIMMY916 Jimmy, I didn't see or say anything about the pocket that seats the magnet. My comments were confined to Tapping only. Please reread what I posted. By the way, that comment you made about a tap self aligning in deep holes gave me chills! If you stick with that philosophy I would fully expect the dreaded.. "SNAP"!
@cdrive5757 Please be honest Chris. Do you think the tap broke or the thread came out crooked ?
@@JIMMY916 No, I don't think either, but someday it might be an extremely fragile 2-56 or 4-40 thread. I read through some of the comments left by others and something in particular grabbed my attention. There were viewers that complained about the length of this video. Comments like (I'm paraphrasing).."We don't need to see every single pass on the lathe". Your retort was "Those viewers that don't need to see it will just fast forward through that stuff". You then expressed the importance of keeping that footage for the less experienced. Jim, In keeping with that philosophy I stand by my disapproval of that tapping segment on the lathe. I think you know better and the "Shop Smart" methods that would have pleased your shop teacher. I know when I have to piss I tend to rush things! 😜 Motto to live by: Good shop practice takes practice! 🥰 Peace, young brother Jim
Hello, my big brother Chris :)) Six months ago, when I posted my first video, I was thinking about who would subscribe to my channel ? It never occurred to me that my audience would consist of professional machinist, teachers or engineers with almost 50 years of experience. This amazes me and honors me in the same time. I get free tips and lessons from the best. But unfortunately all this comes with a big downside. I can't impress you at all and that doesn't help me at all. I feel like if I were building a plane in my huge workshop, apart from ”nice work” we'd be talking about the paint it should be painted with. Nothing about project :)) Of course, I'm exaggerating now but you get what I mean. It would be unfair to say that I don't also receive extremely positive and encouraging comments, but I have friends who seem to intentionally avoid giving me feedback on the final product. Positive or negative, it doesn't matter. I think it's too early to ask that of you right now. My case is probably identical to that of a driver who has been driving for a year and already wants to participate in races. I have to remind myself that: it is an honor that you subscribe to my channel And yes, it is. It's just that sometimes I'm in a hurry. God bless you Chris
Awesome, definitely worth it sir, you've made a great tool... DAMN i would've like it a lot to be your neighbor ❗❗❗
Unfortunately, we are not neighbors. But we are certainly brothers. Thank you very much for your nice words !
You put the cutter in backwards, the cutting edge should be on the centerline. Nice work tho.
Thats is my first video...I would definitely do it differently now. Thank you for your comment !
Well that's one fancy tapping block! Good job! You even left plenty of room underneath for chips to evacuate. As far as nobody ever designing something like this before... everything's been designed before, but don't let that get in your way. I've got something like this from the 1940s that's designed for watchmakers. When I'm making tapping blocks I usually just go with a scrap of 4140, drill a hole in it for the major diameter, hollow the bottom out a little, and harden it so the threads of the tap don't bite into it. I've always got magnets laying around for setup so if I need it on a vertical/overhead surface I can just grab them. A hint to make things go a little smoother with your tapping on the lathe and mill - if you countersink/chamfer the hole first you'll have an easier time starting the tap and won't risk damaging a thread.
If someone thought of a tool before me, it means that I was born late. In the end, I will have an idea that no one has had before me. I hope you won't get bored of me until than :)) As for chamfer the hole, I know that I do many things upside down. Something learned incorrectly can hardly be corrected. I assure you that I will do it in the correct order from now on. Thank you for another free lesson !
G’da that was a very interesting watching you make that which is a brilliant idea and it was a real credit to you how you crafted it. Look after yourself regards John
I am honored by your kind words. They are the encouragement I need to continue. And for that, my friend John, you made a happy man today.
If it helps I use a variable pitch bandsaw blade for solid (not tubular) aluminium of 4-6 tpi it makes a massive speed difference.
I think my electric motor is too weak for aluminum cutting. My band is 8 tpi. That probably forces him. Or the speed is inappropriate. Thank you for your information !
Are you sure your bandsaw blade is 8 tpi? That is the ideal tooth count for aluminum, and in my opinion, pretty coarse for cutting steel. I use around 14 tpi for steel. Maybe use something like WD40 when cutting aluminum. That does seem to help evacuate chips and make it cut a little faster.
Yes, it's 8 tpi. I think there is something wrong with the cutting speed. It's either too small or too high. I will use wd40. Maybe thats the problem. Or maybe the shape of the teeth is inappropiate for aluminum. Thank you very much for your comment !
I didn't think of this myself and I've tapped lots of holes where I could have used it. For threading something that can be clamped on the mill bed or into the lathe chuck or on the drill press, center the workpiece hole under the chuck (where it already is if you just drilled the hole), and hold the tap between centers, using the center hole on the end of most (all?) taps. If you have one, use a spring loaded tap follower in the tailstock or drill chuck. Otherwise, chuck a pointed rod and apply light pressure manually to hold the tap in place. Or rig up a rubber band.
What I don't understand is why you think that all the holes and threads are machine made I will give you only one example where you methods cannot be used. A screw on an engine block of a car that pulled the thread and it has to be redone to an increased size, my tool guarantees perfect alignment (your methods is useless). I am sure that our imagination does not stop at using this tool only on the lathe or milling machine where it is obvious useless. I am amazed at the confusion...It is an mobile tool, if you want.
@@JIMMY916 Yes, that's perfectly true. The method I saw used in some video is primarily useful immediately after drilling the hole when the workpiece is already clamped perfectly in place under the chuck.
You are right after all. I am the one who had to be perfectly explicit because I am the one who presented a new concept for the first time. If there is confusion, it means that I was not clear enough. I will be very careful about this aspect from now on. I promise. Thank you Edward for your comments !
Page 12:15 did we have a boring head to this job?
Yes sir. ”NO MISTAKE ALLOWED” is probably the video you reffer.
As an alternative, match a nut to the tap as a perpendicular guide on a flat surface. Also we can upgrade the nut with a base flange for better alignment control. Unless we do threading on a sheet metal and to avoid critical stress related failure, all threading taps are self alignment as it sink into the hole with cross section aspect ration of >1.
Yes, a good alternative is to use a nut. Unfortunately, I don't have any nuts other than the extremely common ones. Thats why I thought of this centering device. But your idea is very good and I'm glad that you write to me and I learn new things. Thank you very much !
The hollow and solid cone alignment part is a good idea. Even better if we can integrate an edge finder to the shank. Any slight offset may be detected by our fingernail.
Correct ! Good and equally simple option. I will use it. Thank you !
best band saw improvement is coolant with pump
For me it is very complicated to make this improvement... True, all profesional band saws have this option., but mine is a hobby toy. I will spray wd40 and I think I will better results. Thank you for your suggestion :)
I recommend the use of WD-40 when machining aluminum and threading, as far as cutting it I would simply get a blade with half the tooth count of what you have right now. I don't know but I'm guessing you are running some where around 28 to 32tpi right now and I would try a 14 to 18 tpi blade for aluminum, a larger chip wont pack up like the fine tooth blade when cutting soft materials. A fine tooth blade will pack in aluminum and not allow it to clear which will slow down the cut, spraying it will a little WD-40 will help but not a lot. You could also try a saw blade lubricant stick which helps to keep shavings from packing into the blade. It's like a wax mixed with other stuff and you press it up against the side of the blade while it's running to deposit some on the blade to help. Olson makes one that I have used in the past with a fair amount of luck.
I didn't think to use wd40 for cutting. I have used cutting oil on other occasions but without noticeable results. I will try your method. So the cutting band is not the problem ? I'm glad if that's the case. Thank you for your suggestion ! And for your time.
@@JIMMY916 The rule of thumb is the harder the material the more tpi you need. Aluminum is very soft so I recommend a courser tooth blade. I agree with the comment below about coolant but it isn't always practical with a hobby machinist so that's why I recommend a blade in the 14 to 18 tpi range and a lube stick, another trick I have done in the past is to place a blow down gun blowing sideways across the blade blowing the chips off the teeth as it comes out of the cut, again not practical but it helps a little bit.
Could it be the wrong speed for aluminum ? Is there a rule for cutting aluminum quickly ? For cutting steel I am very satisfied, only with aluminum it is difficult. My guess is that I am wrong here. Thank you for your time !
Very clever however the clip is too detailed. We do not need to see all cuts to get the diameter or the whole process of drilling. I am assuming that whoever needs this tool is already familiar with using lathe.
The videos on youtube that presented details in an explicit way as I present, taught me to work on the lathe. The presentation of details is for people like me. I am convinced that the experienced ones only look at the end. He is not interested in the production process at all. Thank you for your comment and for your appreciation !
@@JIMMY916Exactly!!! I love the detail and the lessons thereof. Even the sound of the turning is a reference guide to those of us finding our way to the light. Keep up the great work brother. I enjoyed every second of the class/video.
These are too big words for a beginner like me, but for that I thank you. God bless you for the encouragement, my brother !
nicely done! very handy
@@DK-vx1zc Thank you very much for your appreciation !
Looks great
Thank you very much !
Do you mind sharing the plans? I won’t make the exact same thing only because I am used to working with the inch system.
You will have to teach me how to remove them from autocad. I do all my projects there but my IT knowledge are very limited. Could I take pictures of the sketches and send them to you email ? This is easy and I know how to do it :))
You don't have a .pdf copy of the manual for that lathe/mill machine do you? Or a link to one in English?
Unfortunately, as far as I know, it only exists in italian. If it's useful for you, let me know and I'll look for it.
@@JIMMY916 I'd love to have a copy of it. I'm sure that Google Translates can convert it to English for me if it's a digital copy. And I appreciate it very much.
I looked in my computer and can't find them. Instead, I found them on the internet. You have to look exactly as I tell you ”Maquinaria para Carpintero AT 520 MULTI- PURPOSE MACHINE” and you will find a PDF with all the information of my model. If you need other information, please ask.
@@JIMMY916 Found it! Many thanks. Your info leads me to another link with an English version of the same machine with different company on it. AT520 seems to be a popular model
@@JIMMY916 Any chance you can provide me with the 3 belt sizes for the lathe drive? There are 2 for low speeds and a single for the higher speeds. What I have is not correct.
Total waste of time, use better quality inserts & finish with emery cloth
I'm sure it's a total waste of time to tell you that the surface gets harder by pressing the metal. I'm not the only one saying this, experienced machinists like you have said it. But you can probably only achieve this with quality inserts.
Thanks for the video brother, nice job, smooth operation! 😃👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you my brother ! I am honored that you appreciate my work.
What a complicated and extended way to get some T-nuts! Precision where it isn't needed. Here is what I do: 0. Remove the vise from the mill table. 1. Select stock that is equal to or a bit bigger than the finished width and height. 2. Slap a foot or more of the stock on the mill table. 3. Use clamps ON ONE EDGE to hold it down on the table. Leave at least 1/2 of the width exposed for cutting. Precision alignment is not needed at this stage. 4. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height. 5. Move the clamps, one at a time, to the other edge. 6. Mill the un-clamped half to the final height. The full width of the stock should now be at the final height. 7. Turn the stock over, align it fairly close to the table's movement, and clamp it down on one side,. The side that is up will be the bottom of the finished T-nut. 8. Mill the corner of the un-clamped side to the finished width of the bottom of the T-nut. Go deep enough to bring all of the lower part of the T-nut to dimension but do not cut into the table. The bottom is now finished. 9. Turn it over and clamp it on the same edge again. 10. Mill the top of that edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots. 11. Move your clamps to the other edge, one by one to preserve the alignment of the stock. 12. Mill the top of the other, un-clamped edge to it's final width and depth for your table slots. The Tee shape should be finished. 13. Decide how long you want you finished T-nuts to be and add the width of your saw's kerf. Mark the hole spaces according to this dimension. 14. Punch, drill, and tap the holes before cutting the individual nuts apart. It's a lot easier that way. 15. Put a sacrificial bolt in the tapped holes and toss them in a tumbler. Run it overnight. 16. Heat treat them as desired. If you use 4140 prehard steel and make them about 25% longer than commercially available T-nuts, it probably won't be necessary. 99. Put the vise back on the table and align it.
:)) Thank you for watching and for your time ! Your comment inspires me.
Mild steel can not water or oil harden, but as stated heat and oil bluing is a great anti rust treatment and is more durable to cold bluing. Deez nuts look good.
Thank you very much for your comment ! I'm not a fan of cold bluing but it is a frecvent used method too.
вылет резца можно и уменьшить..
Yes, there are many things to improve. Thank you for your comment !