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Nice work Jimmy. Great idea. Thanks for sharing. 👍 💯👍

Good job. And good idea to use the engine cooling system to heat the cabin.

Hi Nice work and a nice tool park you have keep going I like your videos From Brian w.germany

Why do you even bother using that live center on something so close to the chuck? That live center is an abortion in engineering. Scrap bin haha.

I actually saw your follow-up video, where you used the thrust bearing, then went looking for this one. I love the detail you get in the extreme close-up shots of the finishes. And that level of detail makes all the difference in seeing what happened. I'm just a guy with some training that taught me to recognize something important in what you're showing. I went through aircraft mechanic school ("A&P", in the US), and part of that training involved a whole lot of time spent learning to spot signs of potential failure points in metal structures. (And just to drive the point home, we had to do a section on crash investigation. Figuring out which broken part caused the crash, among all the stuff that got smashed up during the crash is NOT when you want to find the problem!) Anyway... In particular, I'm looking at a still picture at the 29:43 mark in the video. Obviously I can't be sure without seeing your test surfaces under an actual microscope, but the area that the bearings went over looks like it's covered in tiny fatigue fractures. This is further supported by the presence of what appear to be microscopic tears in the metal, along the boundary where the balls pushed up a burr. All of this is to say that you may be trying too hard - literally. With those small diameter balls being mashed deeply into every point of the surface, dozens (or even hundreds?) of times, the process put more stress into the metal than it can handle. It gets work hardened in the first few passes, and then fractures - albeit on a very small scale - when it tries to keep bending. I think the tool you made, with the three small balls, might work just fine if you change the way you use it... (I apologize in advance if I sound like I'm 'talking down' to you. That happens sometimes, no matter how I write. I'm really just trying to be clear in what I'm saying.) As an experiment, fly cut another piece of steel, then slow the mill down to it's lowest RPM and reduce the pressure on the tool to where the balls are pressing lightly on the surface. Take one fairly fast pass over the work; fast enough that the balls miss some areas. Pull out your camera/microscope and take a close look at the tracks the balls made across the surface. If the center of each track is completely smooth, you're at the right pressure. If not, add a little more, and repeat the process until they are, then slow the feed down and see if it leaves a smooth surface. Once you get the force dialed in, try to do all future parts in a single pass, with as little overlap as possible. The more times - and more deeply - that any given point on the surface gets dented, the more likely it is for microfractures to start making the finish worse again. Also, switching to larger diameter balls could help too. It would spread the load over a larger surface with each pass, and the track left by each ball will be broader, shallower, and less visible. Hope this helps!

That's a really great idea! Thanks for sharing.

Nice-looking cab. Can't be too cold there, there's still leaves on the trees. Here in western Canada the ground is freezing. In a month it will be Frozen 1m deep. Not a lot of digging goes on here in the winter

It’s coming along nicely 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Nice work Jimmy, gettig closer to having the Excavator cab closed it. The fabrication work looks great. Nice design, looks good. 👍💯👍 Have a great day. 👍

It’s looking good, have you got a heater figured out

Excellent fabrication work, sir!

Hi nice work and tools that you use for the job keep going it is looking good from Brian w.germany

Seven times the balls maybe needs seven times the force.

... without a lathe and without welding hood

Crap

Why not Poly Carb for all windows. I'd be afraid that the smallest hit or twist may break glass. I'm just curious.

Some of the best stuff I've made has been from shooting from the hip. But so has some of the worst.

Use a vacuüm-cleaner for the chips

Felicitarii pentru ceea ce faci 👍 Succes in continuare!

Nice work. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

Nice work Jimmy. Going to be nice when you are finished.👍👍

For the effect you need to increase the spring stiffness significantly. i suggest using disc springs.

I always really like your videos. Keep it up. Greetings from Germany

Good afternoon. Tell me where in Germany I can buy such a welding machine. Thank you Vladimir.

Good morning Jimmy, nice review. I have not been getting your videos. Looks like you are doing well. Nice vise you got from Vevor. Certainly good value for the money. Have a good day, take care.Ed

Still an amazing result!

You are simply a genius! Thank you very much for the great idea and wonderful video!

I like the idea of using a thrust bearing. But im thinking it would help to remove at least every other ball. The more ball bearings you have the higher the load it can take before deforming the surface. And your trying to deforn the surface..

5x the bsll bearings will necessitate 5x the force on the tool forcthe sand result

Those patterns look like my mill makes when it is out of tram. Perhaps you can try playing with tram adjustments. I would even go so far as to suggest taking it so far out of tram that the back bearings don't touch, when it is spinning the front bearings are pressing left to right, but the back ones are going right to left. You don't see it with a fly cutter when trammed properly because the material has already been removed. Hope that makes sense.

Why use a righthand tool while turning to the left? Google annealing of cast iron.You cooled it off way too fast due to poor handling of the disks.Do it properly and you will succeed.

Nice. I think the tip of the factory made ones is hardened for reduced wear but for occasional use, I think it will last a long time even with non hardened tip.

I worked on mini excavators for years, (up to 12 ton CASE) hardest part was putting tracks on when someone knocked them off and you had very limited access- a four foot wide machine in a four foot six passage about 1.5 meters in 1.6 meter (not as bad as having track off in a river though) Making pins and bushings was almost everyday occurrence, making new rods for hydraulic cylinders at least once a month. One of the shop guys even made new blades and buckets (almost as crude as the PK Trucks vids, at least we had a 100 ton press when needed) I even made a set of pins that would have cost over £1200 from manufacturer, EN8 steel bar and machining was around £200 (long time ago when EN steels were more common than BSI or ANSI

Felicitari mestere pentru acest clip.Mult succes la cresterea canalului tau 👍👍👍

you should look into springs with higher spring force perhaps washer springs other than that it looks nice.

They make camshaft lifters from chilled iron which is like glass. The only way to work it is by grinding.

I was intrigued by this idea, based on what I have seen accomplished with single ball burnishers on Lathes. And I had this thought. The ball bearing burnishing works because of the force applied to the surface through the 'single point' contact of the ball bearing with the surface to be finished. With a single bearing, you will get more contact force than with multiple bearings, given the same downward force to begin with. By increasing the # of bearings, you are decreasing the burnishing force, hence why you are not seeing any improvement. I would consider trying to develop a tool that only uses one bearing and see if that improves things.

you are doing what I would do. great job!

Fish pond?

Excellent repair..

Very interesting. Thanks. Nice work sir

Build a line boring and welding machine..... How hard can it be..??

Good job. Wel done.

I wonder if it's a chilled casting, some guy at work used to leave chilled castings outside to rust, he said that this worked a treat, although he did sometimes use special armour plate drills.

Do you see the white areas in the fracture surface? That is white iron which is basically unmachinable. You do need to anneal this. The problem will be having a slow enough cooling. I would recommend a furnace cooling where the temperature is stepped down over several hours. My recommendation would be to heat at about 850 - 900C for one hour per inch of thickness with a one hour minimum. Then furnace cool to 650C and hold for 60 minutes per inch of thickness with a one hour minimum. Then shut off furnace and allow it to cool to ambient. This will not eliminate all of the iron carbide, but it should give you a more machinable cast iron. This should allow the cementite to convert to austenite and ledeburite, and then upon cooling convert to pearlite and the excess carbon to precipitate as spherical rather than flake carbon. This should produce a grey (or ductile) cast iron. I cannot be more specific as I do not know the percent Carbon content. A likely reason for the hardness of these weights is that they are a relatively thin section and were probably shaken out too quickly from the molds. The only machining done on them was probably to grind off the sprues, gates and risers. Hope that this helps. Please let me know how it turns out. PS: the liquidus and austenite temperature for greater than 2% C is only 1150C which is not hard to obtain in a propane fueled furnace. If you are going to sand cool items, put half of your sand in a separate container. Then you just pour this sand over the parts that have sand underneath them. When you were grinding on the heat-treated discs, I was looking at the sparks. It is definitely a cast iron with a high carbon content (which would have assisted the foundry in the casting process by having a lower melting point), but oddly enough, it looked like there may be some Chromium present which would also promote hardenability. These weights were probably made with whatever scrap that the foundry could get for as cheaply as possible.

I like your lathe. What is the make and model? Thanks.

Nice experiment. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎

ceramic balls?

There is a good chance that this cast iron is from recycled wear plates from inside a crusher or similar, I had something similar myself.

Final comment, try a different brand of weight to possibly get a different quality of base material, and try a heavier weight to increase the central area to shell area ratio. Maybe try recasting at an actual liquid phase of hot cast iron and scrape off as much dross as possible as that will just be even more hard material in your final casting. Good Luck and BE SAFE!!