The Benefits of Rainscreen Cladding & Exterior Insulation
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- Опубліковано 7 лют 2025
- Nick Schiffer and Vincent Appel provide an in-depth look at the robust rain screen cladding system being used on a home in Boston. They discuss the performance benefits, structural design, and ventilation details that will ensure the long-term durability of this unique exterior assembly.
VIDEO NOTES
Cladding Detail Overview (1:10)
Insulation and Structural Details (2:37)
Screw Placement and Load Support (3:08)
Weight and Architectural Decision (4:54)
Ventilation and Longevity (6:36)
Corner Details and Future Plans (8:28)
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Nick, this is really impressive work. Congrats! I think a lot of people here missed the point. These waterproofing and insulation concepts that are so important can be applied to any home, whether $300k or $15 million. I hope to one day build homes such as these. Truly a work of art!
Can't wait to see how the window and roof transitions are done.
That’s an awesome hidden plinko wall. Price is Right would be proud
I just called him. He confirmed. Very proud
Can’t wait to see the final result!
Love the videos man. Keep pumping out content 👍
You got it Michael
What a great space for critters down the road. It doesn’t matter how well you seal it today, critters will find their way in eventually.
You think? 🐿️
They'll have a metal screen.
@bm - Nope . i have a house with an almost identical set up that is 15 years old and no critters , so ,,,,,,
@@toomanymarys7355 only on the ends…
@@siriosstar4789 critters doesn’t have to mean mammalian. I guarantee if you removed the siding you’d have a boat load of bugs in there. I have cedar shake siding laid tight to tar paper and I have bugs in/trying to get in.
Beautifully done, but labor-intensive and very expensive. My wife and I build staggered-stud structures (homes and outbuildings) insulated with blown-in cellulose, the most affordable insulation on the market today. Right now I'm sitting in our own home, with 30cm/12 inch thick walls and approximately R-48 for the assembly. Hardipanel with vertical battens on the exterior, triple-glazed windows. A nice look and incredibly affordable.
As a former insulation contractor and working in construction and siding for many years, I 100% concur on the blow in cellulose and HardiPlank being excellent and cost effective.
This is a unique architectural siding and insulation design that is not for everyone.
This is an amazing build. Very well thought out. Congrats on such a unique project.
Thanks 🙏
Wild build excited to see this get finished!
Great Post and discussion
Thanks
cant wait to see the final result
Same 😊
Would like to see a revist each anniversary year ... to see real-life longtitudinal efficiencies. This is a 200 pre-heritage year duration build at minimum. It will literally last that long ... plus. Expensive ... sure but this will become a legacy heritage classic building. Maybe some comments on fire protection status and the larger non-insect/vermin/pests protection in the shell cavities. As a builder, well done and ... brilliant. 🎉
I'm really interested to see how the exterior window soffits are being finished with that cement shake, or is it just being skinned with cedar for a nod to the design while adding contrast to the raw cement finish.
All “trim” is either a metal fin or flat stock
Great stuff as always ! Thanks !
Thanks jack
We are used to inserting half of the screws upward at a 30 degree angle. That prevents bending stress in the screwshafts
75-100 year exterior?!! Wow, I’ve never hear of anyone being concerned beyond the warranty period of the structure!
It is fascinating what it takes in design, construction and maintenance to build a long lasting structure.
As a former insulation contractor and working in siding and construction for many years this is interesting, thank you.
Very interesting! I've been wanting for this video since you showed the concept months ago.
I know that engineering signed off on this but it's still mind boggling that the exterior of this house will support basically 10 cars hanging on the walls.
And the vertical two by's only have to be screwed into the plywood and not a stud is concerning
@briand3837 pretty sure he specifically said they hit structural studs
@@briand3837they’re screwed into the stud. We mention that
If I'm ever so lucky to build my own house, I'll definitely go with exterior insulation.
Great detail. Especially in our climate
As NS Builders says, this design isn't for everyone. I can see some overuse of resources on that exterior, but this build technique generates a lot of food for thought (and comments!). I would like to visit it again 50 and 100 years from now to learn what went right, and what didn't.
See you in 50?
Love this exterior insulation+rain screen. How do you keep the vertical 2x4 strapping on top of the rock wool even/level to avoid rippling as the rockwool compresses slightly?
This is a fantastic build. i have a house in germany that is very similar except the walls are manufactured ' logs ' made from kiln dried 2x6 three layers thick making the ' logs 14 cm thick with 14 cm thick wood fiber insulation panels , vertical furring strips ove pr that and five quarter wood siding on top . the bottom and top cavities are sealed with heavy duty screen. it's more like perforated sheet metal . the house is super warm and very comfortable . windows are triple glass tilt and turn .
Very, very smart modern high funtioning building system. Well done. 🎉
rockwool seems porous, hence a breading ground mold and mildew. Might adhering plastic or applying an acrylic enamel help in this regard?
basically a massive roof tile put on the side of the building
Looks like a great assembly. Probably great in fire prone areas too being all masonry and stainless steel. Add a metal roof and you've got a good amount of protection. Is there a hurricane rating to the assembly?
I love the idea but I know first hand the cost. It's a major cost to install such a system. (I have a similar rainscreen/rockwool system, not 5 inches though!) The 10 inch fasteners every 12 inches alone is a hefty cost. Glad they chose the rigth builder to do it too. Meticulous detail is so important to install this correctly. From everything I seen over the many videos I have seen from NS, they are very skilled and qualified to do such a job.
Thanks 🙏 yes it’s costly.
Can we define costly? My builder is thinking around 40k extra for exterior insulation. 2700sq ft. Does this sound normal or crazy?
@ Seems fair to me tbh. It's a lot of labor. Although its not worth 40k if they don't do it right. I'd make sure your builder has done it before and detail how they did it.
You did not mention screen type and use for closing the vented ends of the rain screen? Please do.
I think it would still be a good idea to add a color matching flashing behind every brick butt joint. Relatively small investment not to allow water through those joints.
Unnecessary but i get it
Did you get your ideas from the Cold climate research council? I have been waiting to see someone insulate like this. Bravo!!!
I have pine beetles that squeeze through very tight opening. Any info if they can get through the butt joints? Thanks.
Probably.
Would like to see how the windows and doors get detailed with the cladding.
In driving rain, how much water penetration would you get between the vertical join on the shingles? Or due to the air gap you would just expect it to dry out fine even in winter?
Enough, but it’ll dry
It is going to look sharp with that "fin"! The compound angle is no issue for you guys!
Couple test cuts should do it
This looks like a huge effor, really lot of work! Looks great actually! Sorry if this is naive, but why dont you use bricks, a 40cm thermo modern brick, not even insulation is needed. I dont want to troll, just really curious. - cheers from EU
Loved the video, thanks for sharing
Most of the ext. insulation I've seen has been rigid board; either zip-R type of product, or a poly-iso in 2 layers with staggered and sealed seams. I recognize that mineral wool is vapor permeable so can probably dry better in the event moisture/water gets into that layer, but without sealed and staggered seams you'll see some thermal bridging...right? Genuine question, I have not done it. I am a building performance guy but do mostly retrofit. Really enjoyed the content thanks for your time if you can respond.
Staggered seams are also needed when using rigid plastic foam insulation in order to avoid thermal bridging.
TimberHP is working on T+G insulating TimberBoards (just like most European manufacturers) which should help in eliminating thermal bridging at the seams..
I can only imagine the gratitude from future generations of critters who find, or make, any possible way into the nice, big gap behind the cladding.
More rent money
@ 😆 Wouldn’t that be nice. That would go right along with PETA getting to take apex predators to court.
If there is a lesson to be learned from the Fires in California in 2025, is that wood buildings can burn quite easily. However, masonry, brick & stucco finished buildings can withstand those fires (yes there are real ways to prevent fire damage). I live in London UK< and for those who don't know, we have a history of building with many different materials over the past 1200 years.
Brick, stone, mud, timber construction, and more recently modern materials. Famously we had the fire of London, in 1666 where are many as 13, 200 houses were destroyed and 87 churches, manyof those were timber buidlings, and they were build very close to each other.... 17th Century problems we still face in uSA
Actually, many stucco buildings with tile or other Class A roofs burned to the ground in the Palisades fire. Hundreds of them. This is due to ember entry into roof spaces or crawl spaces or just the interior of the living space. Many others burned from direct flame impingement from a burning house only 10-20 feet away. The amount of small gaps providing ember entry, even in multi-million-dollar houses built compliant with California's Chapter 7A standards, is amazing once you start looking for them and sealing them.
is that pressure treated strapping cut? because cutting pressure treated wood exposes the inner wood material which did not receive treatment; pressure treatment only goes so deep
Yeah, I was wondering if it's pre-beveled or cut on site.
Pre-cutting everything to exact spec then pressure treating before shipping to the site don't sound realistic.
@anthonyenosis1 it shouldnt need to be pressure treated. As it has airflow so it can dry out if any water gets past the siding
@@Fulcrum205 cool so then we dont need sheething for houses either? just as long as after each rain the dry out, we should be good?
@@anthonyenosis1 The oldest entirely wooden building in Norway was built in 1170. That is 855 years old, not sure if there are any records that list what pressure treament they used back then.
Amazing ♥️
Crazy that meager 2x6 (2x4 in older houses) can hold so much weight.
That's nothing compared to the potential roof and second floor load
I could support far more weight that we have
There's a detail early in the presentation showing the semirigid being rabbeted to wrap dimension lumber. Where is that related to this build?
What keeps all that wood from burning if it catches fire? How would you put it out?
Same way you’d put out any fire. Masonry shingle and rockwool is going to help prevent flame spread though.
NS Builders- at 6:05 the Horz furring has a taper to support the 'brick' like you noted-- but it the subcontractor have to cut each of these or instead is there a supplier milling them with the taper cut?
Our supplied ripped them for us 😊
It’s a huge effort. It’ll buffer solar heat in summer just as good as 4” brick.
The issue for me is the Tiles comprise lots of vertical leaks. The semi rigid rock wool is an excellent product but I question whether it can stand repeated wetting, especially in the summer when the outside humidity is high and it won’t dry quickly.
Yes it can
what will prevent water from passing through butt joints ?
Nothing. That’s why it has a rain screen. Water is allowed behind the siding.
Hardie recommends color matched flashing for butt joints. IMO it's better to add those on this project as well. No reason to allow unnecessary water if there's a solution.
@@CMCraftsman it's ok for insulation to get wet? Seems dicey.
@@kennethbarber438 Normally not but Rockwool Comfortboard is water repellent.
@@kennethbarber438 not just water but any clever insect? screens top & bottom don’t help much then. This is so over-engineered it’s impossible to believe they just ignore all these butt joints that will have gaps. Bizarre.
HOT CHOCO-DUNK!
1. that's a ton of comfortboard. is there interior insulation as well?
2. why siga versus other products?
3. are the studs regular 2x4s? seems easy to miss
1. Yes comfortbatt inside. 10.5” of total insulation. 2. Nope just preference. 3. Yes.
@NSBuilders perfect thanks 🙏
Has the system been tested with the ember generator - fan test system?
Blower door? Should pass with flying colors.
@ No. NIST has developed a device the creates embers then blows them towards a wall assembly. It’s to help create assemblies that are resistant to ember storms.
From what I can read the emberometer is only measuring the size and speed of embers, not any materials resistance to embers. You would need the firebrand generator for that. I'm betting the manufacturer of those tiles is probably testing the fire resistance.
Great system. I'm just wondering how many of those 2 amp batteries old Enrique uses per day.
I'd like to see what ot looks like when it's done. No doubt it will look awesome. I'd be concerned about all that weight being supported by a wood frame, but i suppose engineers have signed of on it. Here in Croatia, you'd only see that type of system used over reinforced concrete walls. Maybe over hollow brick too.
Nick what is the purpose of having a tile that is that thick?
Aesthetics
@@NSBuilders I'm curious to see the vision fully unveiled.
I'm curious about the usage of Siga membrane over using something like zip system. Is the performance or time to install different between the two?
They “do” the same thing but perform differently. All comes down the the way the envelope is design to perform. Especially in terms of vapor
Plywood + SA WRB is more vapor open then ZIP and vapor openess is a big plus, especially in climate zones with cold winters linke CZ 4 and above.
Besides that, for certain applications, the WRB of the ZIP sheathing seams not to be adequate enough.
Is there a US supplier in the southeast that might offer this Petersen Cover brick? I couldn’t find any info for distribution on their website.
We purchased direct. No distribution here.
Looks real fire proof 😂🤣😅
Masonry and rockwool. Yup!
Doesn’t the screw crest a huge thermal bridge?
Not if it's embedded in wood.
Stainless also helps.
Hi, i love ypur exterior platform, where did you get them feom what is the company name? Wjat is your type of platform called. Thank you
Not sure
In how far do the screws make a cold bridge and lower the R value? (I am just starting to learn about construction)
I mean we’re talking a very small percentage. Far less than the windows will be…
@@NSBuilders Interesting! Looking into it I find Rockwool has around an R=3 / inch and triple glaze an R=3, makes sense. Looking forward to following your build.
The sheer weight of that cladding would still worry me. Ive only been in the business for 10 years but a ton of products I see come out make me very weary because there is "warranties" on products that haven't been tested for that time frame and controlled tests are not the same as long term wear. Im all for new products, but if it doesn't make sense to me, I won't suggest a client does it. 36k in weight bearing on SS screws and treated 2x4 on the flat on to the frame of the house(not some solid footing) worries me. What is the shear strength of the screws? Not to say it won't continuously hold up but I'd love to know sheer weight vs what is actually bearing on the screws and how it would look 10 to 15 years down the road.
i'm really fan on that way you build this wall, is it possible to get og buy a drawings of the wall assemble, and how you done around the windows?
in Denmark where i'm from its not normal to use wood as construction, so having a hard time to get the double stud wall details right due the fact we don´t in europe have anything like zip panels. so i have to due something simulér with plywood and siga majrex.
and man you doing a killer job on the build, and also on the video side ;) keep it up
Double stud walls are a bit overkill... I would look into: service cavity (electrical and plumbing) + balloon framing + exterior insulation with Rockwool or wood fiber boards (Gutex, Celit,...).
@@koenraadprincen7212 i feel that double stud wall is sort of the only way to get something similar to zip R
we do have some few pir insulation but it´s hell of expensive, most common brand is kingspan
if we go with kingspan we missing some sheathing for strukturel purpose.
and if no double stud wall i have to go with 2 by 8 to meet code
plus i need 45mm installation wall on the inside.
i'm a big fan of having 1 layer of insulation that go all the way around as Monopoly framing do
@@slackeren ZIP R is actually something you better don't use in a climate like Denmark:
- It's not enough vapor open towards the exterior.
- The insulation (PIR) is at the wrong side.
- It's PIR and that's a lousy material regarding insulating against sound and summer heat.
- In practice PIR doesn't perform that well as you would expect from it's R-value (or Lambda-value).
External vapor open insulation is a better option.
I presume cellulose is rather cheap in Denmark, no? How about flax, hemp, cotton,...?
Which R- or U-value do you need for your walls and roof per Danish code?
@@koenraadprincen7212 Im not 100% sure about the "required" R value since we use the U scale
but my overall wall installation should be around 45-50 cm
and i need a min. of 350mm insulation in the walls to meet code. - if its u37, i could pay to get etc rockwool u34,u32 for and added expense wich could do my wall 2-4 cm thinner.
my goal is sort of going almost passive house wall. to keep future heat bills way down. and not to cut any corner by just doing "minimum insulation"
im big fan on the wood fiber insulation, but its hard to find some of those produkt that's okay due to our strict fire regulation. there should come some products from the German brand steico q1 or q2 2025 with the right fire regulation, but they take care of the outboard insulation but still missing the plywood for structural purpose.
@@slackeren The Danish rules (BR18) specify the maximum allowable energy consumption... but I guess you will end up with a house at passive house standard, a bit like in Norway.
If fire safety is important, have a look at flax insulation, it has fire safety class C and its lambda-value is around 0,038W/m.K.
You could use this in between the cavities together with some extra external insulation.
I don't think an integrated product like ZIP will come to the European market as we use vapor open façade foils/membranes as the outer air barrier and WRB.
ZIP is far less vapor open than those façade foils...
You should check Nicks project "Riverside" or "Oceanfront".
Would be worried about fastening those tiles with screws. The movement in the furring strips behind from season to season might crack them. Nails would at least give them some movement.
Most likely they will not tighten screws (leaving like half a millimeter for movement)
This installation method is incredibly old and time-tested, it’s basically a tile roof.
Great point but it’s what they recommend
@@Szaszzzz with a tile roof, wouldn't there be overlap of the joint to prevent rain penetration?
@govern,,, i have a similar exterior that is 15 years old and haven't seen a movement
How much was it? What is the pricing on it?
How much was what? The Petersen cover brick? I’d call them and ask. It’s not inexpensive
Would be nice if you can provide details at windows/doors/other openings instead of just along the larger field.
Jody, patience my friend.
Great video, thanks. What is the brand for those screws holding the 2x4 strapping?
Rothablaas
Why not use aluminum or even steel strapping to be able to carry the load with less straps? Seems like it would last longer and not that much more expensive if these folks had the budget.
That is some serious insulation mate, love those chunky tiles.
It's like the house is wearing a suit of armor lol.
Not sure if we have any of these products in Australia.
Mate...we built our house exactly the same way in Ballarat without the stupid wall tiles (see my earlier whinge). I wouldn't even put tiles on a roof so why would you want to put them on a wall??!! Everything is readily available in Oz with a bit of hunting around. Tradies grumble coz they haven't done it before but with the proper design it is so quick they just shut up and get on with it. We used timber composite and 50 year old reclaimed BHP corri iron for the cladding. Looks great, costs bugger all and the insulation value is off the chart. give it a go mate, you won't regret it. Just think lightweight cladding which brings all specs and cost down so it is less expensive than brick veneer. Batts cost next to nothing, you don't need the expensive rockwool products, ya just gotta think about how you install it for more than 20 secs.
Get down to Bunnings, you can get everything you need from there.
@@darroncrick9993 Thanks for the info mate. The tiles on the walls are for the looks I guess, I wouldn't have them, too heavy.
I just like the super thick wall insulation which works for extreme heat as well as cold.
Sounds like you can get it! Love aus architecture
This is a bit confusing to me, shouldent the rockwool be behind the OSB with the membrane? All porous insulationbats works best when you have non moving air in them.
If it was like a closed foam EPS boards it would be a different story.
This is ComfortBoard not Batt. And designed to be outboard of the WRB
@@NSBuilders Are they sealed in any way? I know rockwool is good with water but the less the air move the better value.
@@fesen2 Those Rockwool Confortboards 110 are very dense, so you can use them as a "jacket" to protect your house against any cold wind.
Besides that, the brick cladding also acts as a wind barrier.
In case of a "softer" wool like insulation material, you're correct but in that case I would protect any exterior insulation with a vapor open facade membrane (foil) or a vapor open wood fiber sheathing (I don't consider OSB as vapor open).
Would be nice to see a finished house.
We posted one last week Kevin. Where have you been
@@NSBuilders where? Is it another video on UA-cam?
A lot of penetrations through the WRB each time you put a fixing into the insulation and the timber cladding support framings
Why not use aluminum horizontal runners as they would outlast the wood.
@@MM-sf3rl thinking the same thing. In fact, let’s go all aluminum; horizontal and vertical. You could probably get bigger spaces from center to center due to the higher strength.
You would need a custom shape to get the french cleat effect. In practice, this house will last until some one wants something different.
Wood is perfectly fine and will last with the rain screen details
What are the reasons to use Majrex instead of zip?
I think for two reasons:
1. Plywood is stronger then OSB, so you have more shear capacity. Don't forget the huge size of every window opening.
2. Plywood + SA Majrex 500 is more vapor open then ZIP.
Just preference. But Koenraad makes great points
Is that a model home for building in Antarctica?
No way have you see. The buildings built down there? Insane
Looks like a fire behind the rain screen lights the whole side of the house up like a balloon framed bubble... right up the wall into the attic.
comments section is on point as usual, you gotta love it. blue collar mind set has these guys pissed they'll never get to work on a project of this caliber. If you don't get it then don't buy it. If you can't understand the value of pushing the limits then you don't understand the luxury market, period. "build a more affordable house waa waa waa," that's already been done, why would we want a video of some cardboard shit box being built?
Well done Nick + Team, stoked to see the siding up and very curious to see how you do the hardscaping and plantings. Exceptional attentional to detail and BALLSY to do on spec.
Haha. I was thinking the same thing… we could build less expensive homes for the “greater good” and maybe we will but this is about building 1-of-1 art pieces that ☝️ person will appreciate.
Ballsy indeed but the buyer is out there!
I think it's more than price. Instead of attacking people, try to be constructive. Being a prick does nothing other then stroke your ego. Those blue collar folks probably work in the trades and a bunch of them have some pretty valid points, even if they are worded poorly.
@ jfc what am I kindergarten teacher? I'm literally a carpenter, you should hear the shit that comes out of tradesmen's mouths on a job site.
What brand is this masonry tile siding?
Petersen Tegl
I had no idea that mortarless masonry lasted longer than mortared... it makes sense though. Cool video thank you
They "think" it will
The rain screen will have to be replaced long before mortar would need serious work. But it looks great and should perform well.
Kyle sounds like a hater😂 . Mortar requires maintenance this will not. Sl0ls not really, it’ll dry and be more than fine, plenty of timber has lasted 100s of years
Nice build, but expensive. Would be nice to see something with same strategy but fast build and low cost.
I like the product and love the look, but unless you are trying to stop bullets, I don't see why the tiles have to be so thick and heavy. It looks like the tiles have a mesh fiber embedded in them, so it can't be about strength and, in the end, once installed, any view of the siding wouldn't reveal the thickness of the tile.
There is no mesh, and that’s just how they’re made. We didn’t manufacturer them so I’m unsure why they ended up that thick
I don't want to be a "know it all" or "judgy" but am I the only one that's thinking about when the 1 x 2s eventually give out?
@@Realaw1 treated, pine, without termites it will last 50 years. Kids problem.
What is this cladding?
I know i like those tiles/shingles
It could be the Petersen Tegl Cover
@@jorntwthat looks like it, thanks
Amazing details.
Yes Petersen tegl cover
Looks like it can be repaired easily as well.
I wouldn’t say it’s easy. But it’s doable
@@NSBuilders Got it, I should have said compared to other surfaces like stucco, or stone veneer
So tile hanging then
かなり重そうですね。
米国では、ガルバリウム鋼板の外壁は普及していないのでしょうか？
We haven’t used them before
15 minute call - but only deep-pocket clients need call😂
I'd like to know the cost of just the screws and stainless flashing. Labor to rip and install all the beveled treated strapping...yikes.
75-100 yr assembly with 500 yr exterior cladding. Pity the fool who buys that home a century from now and finds out it's a million to remove and replace the 500 yr cladding.
Perspective... I pity the fools currently buying newly built homes thinking they'll last more than 10 years without major renovations. Who cares what the cost of these screws are? They can clearly afford them. So can the person buying this house in 100 years. This channel is about building sturdy, robust, beautiful homes... May not be for you.
Screws were $15k and stainless is about $10k
Labor to rip I think ~$2000 if I recall correctly.
If they were fibre cement, they would be even greater and lighter
Why siga and not zip? Seems like a lot more labor to do aheathing and siga.
Preference
@NSBuilders thank you for the reply. What strengths of this system makes you prefer vs the competition? I don't have a dog in the fight and certainly not criticizing. Just hoping to learn more about what leads you to prefer one vs the other.
I live in a building that is clad like this. We have massive insect nest using the space behind. Not good in my opinion
All new buildings should be designed with large roof overhangs. The large overhang provides beauty and protection from the sun, rain and wind.
Protection of the doors, windows and siding make for a more durable and comfortable home. Water is the enemy of buildings.
All homes should be built to accommodate the elderly and disabled. This will be better for everyone.
Large wide doorways and hallways make using a cane, walker or wheel chair much easier.
Bathrooms or wet rooms need to have flat floors and no shower hump or pan. A flat floor allows for easy access and drains need to provided.
Easy to use lever door and faucet handles are easier for the elderly to grip and open.
Main floors should include a master bedroom, restroom, shower, laundry and wide walk in closet with few steps to enter.
Homes should be designed with aging in place in mind.
New homes should come with solar panels, a rain water collection system and an electric vehicle charger in the garage.
We meet most of those requestes, so if interested let’s chat 😊
its basically a european tiled roof :)
I love this system... where else would anyone find a customer trusting their Builder to Screw them so Royally wot Expensive CRAP...???
I think it’s cool, definitely well thought out and well executed. But it’s very American. In other words, it’s filled with proprietary new tech that is neat, expensive, ridiculous, and temporary. In Europe they’ll just build that house out of concrete and stone. It will be cheaper and their great grandkids’ great grandkids can live in it.
Matt, I’m curious what you feel is proprietary tech, the installation and even the membranes are all used over in Europe. It’s true that in America you see more wood framing, but I’m not really seeing much more than that as a difference between here and Europe.
This house has more insulation then all the houses in Australia combined 🤣
personally i don't see any problem with these very heavy shingles and even it might be labor intensive at the start installation looks pretty easy and even DYI possible ..but it would need some reasons ..like.. OK If you will use this system then you will see these benefits and personally i don't see that here if you didn't use this system you could easily build normal wall from bricks and it would be able same so what i'm missing in this video is comparison between other systems there are by lifetime, costs, and other benefits other system wouldn't provide
" over build it " 😂
In germany , 'american overbuilt' is the standard.
Way beyond the build found in today’s average breeder box
Lot of Spanish being spoken on that job site. I'm glad you still have a crew. Means you are doing it right.
At least it’s not a DR Horton trackhome
Seems a bit short sighted to only build it to last 75-100 years. My very average house in the UK is 96 years old, the brick walls will last another century with virtually no maintenance.
Out of context a bit, this will last significantly longer. And the home itself will certainly last hundreds of years should someone allow it to
Interesting, seems limited to regions with no severe weather. Would not want 20 lb tiles flying around during a hurricane or tornado. Just a layman’s first impression.
I mean 20lb tile or a 5 lb tile. I wouldn’t want either flying at me. Or the card, or lawn furniture for that matter.
Why use heavy cladding for the rain screen? Our build was pretty much identical except we used timber composite for the screen. The embedded energy in those cladding shingles is off the chart, not to mentioned the added engineering and mass required to carry the load. Kind of a FU to the environment considering there are so many other eco-friendlier products available.
It annoys me when a great building system, like rainscreen + external insulation is marginalised by making it ridiculously expensive with useless features. Done right it is a cost effective system with fantastic benefits for everyone.
Rain screen design is fantastic just don't ruin it with a cladding which probably adds to cost of a normal home to the overall build for zero additional benefit......
Not everything HAS to be for the performance benefit. Sometimes beauty is the driving factor.
This has to be the most expensive exterior finish possible. This is not practical for almost anyones budget. Homes in MA are already too expensive for most to afford, but built to this standard would disqualify the majority of people.